FIG. 15. DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK JACKET.
Draft by measure—breast, 36; waist, 24; and hip, 40. Length to waist 14½, and full length, 26.
By using these measures we will endeavor to show how to draft a jacket, each piece separately, thus doing away with the over-lapping of patterns as it occurs when it is drafted altogether, as in our previous articles on proportionate cutting. It is the same principle, but more practical, as a pattern can thus be cut whole in the skirt.
Commence by drawing the back construction line from O to L and O to P.
From O down is three-fourths inch to T.
From O to E is one-fourth of breast—9 inches.
From T measure down to the waist 14½ inches, and the full length to L, 26 inches, and from O over on top line to 5 two inches, and curve the top, T, to 5.
B is midway between O and E.
K is 6 inches below the waist; now draw all the lines across.
At F go in 1½ inch to back, and draw a curved line from the centre seam of the back, from T to 1½, and spring out three-fourths inch at 9, thence to L.
From E to 7 is one-third and one inch, equal to 7 inches. Draw a line up from 7 to 3, and one from 5 to 3.
Raise above 3 one-half inch to 4, then curve the shoulder-seam of the back; form also the curved line from 4 to 6.
Point 6 is midway between 3 and 7. Make the width of the back at waist 2 inches, and from 2 draw a straight line down to the bottom.
Now curve the side seam from 6 past 2 to 10 at bottom, which point is three-fourths of an inch outside of the straight line, also connect L and 10 by a line.
Fig. 15
THE SIDE-BODY.
Cut out the back and lay it on the paper in such a manner that the breast-line will lay on the same line further towards the front, so that there will be sufficient room at the bottom to draft out the side-body whole. Now, first draw along the edge of the back from 6 to 2; go in at 2 one inch, and curve from the blade down to 13.
At 13 draw a straight line down, and curve out from 13 to 18; this last will be exactly underneath point 8 of the back, and from here to the bottom draw it with a slight curve to 20, which is the same length as point 10 of the back.
From 14 to 13 is 2 inches, and make the distance from 11 to 12 the same; now draw a straight line from 12 to 14, and down to the bottom.
Go out from 15 to 16 one inch, and curve seam from 14 to 19, which should not be over 1½ inch outside of straight line. Draw line from 20 to 19.
THE FRONT.
Lay the side-body on breast-line and back in position against side-body, so that the breast-line of each lays correct and straight, then measure from I on centre of the back to the centre of the front D, half-breast, or 18 inches; at this last point draw a line up and down for front line.
Point 12 of the side-body will now be the same as point 21 of the front; draw down to 27 a line with a slight curve to shape in at waist; also draw a straight line down from 27 to 35 at bottom.
From P to C is one-sixth, or 3 inches, and the same to 23, now sweep the neck from P.
From C, which is one-half inch above the top line for erect or ordinary builds, on the line draw one to B on the back.
Now measure the length of shoulder on the back from 5 to 4, and place the same from C to 22, and curve a little above it, as shown in Fig. 15. From G on side-body forward to front of arm is one-fourth, or 4½ inches, where a line is drawn from H; then finish arm-hole from 22 to H and 21.
Finish the side-seam by going out at 31 1 inch to 33, and curve seam to 34; also locate the length by laying the side-body, point 12, on 21, and where 19 comes is 34.
From C, by 34, sweep the bottom of front and straighten this some in the centre.
At the centre of breast-line, beyond D, put one-half of breast, and curve the front line from 23 to waist at S, where it comes back to the straight line, and thence to the bottom at 30, where it is one-half inch outside of it. For a double-breasted jacket make the lap 2½ inches at breast, 2 at waist, and 2¼ at bottom. Whatever the size of the draft at waist, from points S to 1½ on back, exceeds the actual measure must be taken out in darts.
In this Figure we take out one dart only, starting in the centre, J, which is between H and D, and take out between points 25 and 26, the full amount which will be about 2½ or 3 inches, starting the dart at 24, two-thirds above 25, and finishing about 4 inches below the hip-line.
In case two darts are preferred they are put in as already shown in previous Figures.