FIGS. 12, 13, 14. SACK JACKET.
It will be seen that every shape and style of garment must be drafted in the same manner as the principle employed in the construction of the waist-body or basque.
We first commence to draw the back line B and O to F (Fig. 12).
Fig. 12.
Fig. 13.
From O down, on the first line, place three-fourths of an inch, and from O over to F, one-eighth of the breast-measure, or simply 2 inches, on average size.
Starting at ¾, measure down to C, the length of natural waist, and to D, the full parts of the hips; also to E the length wanted.
From C up to B place the height under the arm. Now at every one of these points draw lines across, all at right angles with the first line.
Go in from C to N 1½ inch, and then draw a line from ¾, at top, to N, and from the last point to E, and curve the back-line, as shown from ¾, past R.
From N to M make the width of back, at waist, 2 inches or more, as desired.
Starting at R, place the width of back to G and draw a line up to S.
In the middle, between O and B, fix point A, and from there draw a line over to J.
From the point where lines A-J and G-S cross draw a line to F.
Raise above J one-half inch to S and curve the shoulder from F to S; then from S go inside of line at J and curve the arm-hole of the back to I. This last point is midway between J and G.
From I draw a line to N, then commence at I and draw line for the side-seam to 8, going inside of straight line a trifle and thence with a decided curve to M.
Draw a right-angle line with the waist-line F down to 3 from N, and to 4 from 2.
Now whatever the distance E is drawn from 3 must be placed from 4 to 5, and the back may be finished by drawing the line from 2 to 5.
In case it is desired to make a narrow back, point E may be nearer to 3; in such case point 5 would also be nearer to 4.
Cut the back out, and in order to draw the side-body lay it on the paper in such a manner that there will be room enough to cut it out without piecing.
THE SIDE-BODY.—FIG. 13.
Lines D-F and O are extended over. From 2 to 10 is 1 inch in every case.
Draw from I, along the back, to 8, and from thence begin to separate from the back and curve to 10 and down to 6, which is the point on the back where line O and the line from 2 downwards cross. From 6 down give this line a nice curve, not springing out too much nor making it too flat—a medium is what is desired.
From B to K is one-fourth of the breast-measure.
Curve from I to H and K.
About 1 inch inside of K draw a line down to L, which should make the side-body as wide from 8 to H as 10 to L.
At right angles with waist-line draw one down from 10 to 3, and another from L to 4.
Now whatever the distance is from 3 to 5 should be placed from 4 to 6, and then the seam from L is drawn past 11 to 6.
Make the length at bottom one-half inch longer at 5 to 6; also notice that the distance from 7 to 11 may be a little more than that from 9 to 6, as more ease over the hip, at side, is desirable.
THE FRONT.—FIG. 14.
All the lines are extended over on the paper, and the side-body and back are laid in the position as when they were drafted, and as shown.
First measure from B to V, one-half the breast-measure, and draw line A up and down.
From B to R is the measure to the front of the arm, where a line is drawn up. From P back, place one-sixth of the breast to N, here draw a line up and down, as shown.
Fig. 14.
Measure up from star on side, marked Z, to line at N, the front length less the width of the top of back, and where this reaches on the line fix the height.
From this height draw a line to A, which gives the height of shoulder.
From P as pivot sweep from N to 21 for neck. Place the length of back shoulder from F to S on to N, on line N, and where it reaches will be point 22.
Drop one-half inch below line and curve from 22 to 23, which is one-fourth above the line, to N. Also curve arm-hole from 22 through R to H.
Draw the front line one-half inch inside at 21, curving outside one-half inch near V, coming back to line at U, and outside one-half inch at bottom to point 20.
From H, through L, draw line to 11.
Whatever the distance from 11 to 24 is place over from 11 to 13 and then curve from L, through 12, to 13. Sweep the bottom from 13 by a point 1 inch back of N and flatten this curve near 14.
Midway between R and V fix point 2, and midway between 2 and R point 1.
Measure the distance from the front at U to 10 and from 2 to C.
Deduct the half size of waist from this last and the remainder is taken out in darts.
From U to 12 is 2 inches.
From 12 to 9 is one-half of what is to be taken out in darts.
From 9 to 8 is always three-fourths of an inch.
From 8 to 7 is another dart.
Fix a point in the centre of the darts and draw a straight line from 1 and 2 to 6 and 5; and at right angles with waist-line draw lines from centre of dart down to the bottom. Now, one-third of the height under arm, down, fix point 3, and make 4 one-half inch more.
Draw the darts from 3 and 4 through the points, as shown, to 15 and 14.