THE TABLE AND SERVICE AT TABLE.
The table looks best when not over-decorated. The housekeeper who cannot make changes in her table decoration finds that a mirror centerpiece is a background that multiplies the beauty of her flowers, fruit, leaves, or whatever may constitute the decoration.
A unique and effective decoration for a luncheon table is made of long, narrow bouquets of white carnations, tied with bows of yellow satin ribbon, and arranged so that the ribbons all meet in the center of the table, while the points are directed towards the guests. The effect is of a great golden-hearted daisy.
A pretty conceit for decorating a dainty table is to cluster a number of small palms together in the center of the table. Around these place small ferns, while beyond the latter arrange yards of smilax so as to conceal the pots. Outside of all have a flat border composed of loose bunches of pinks, roses, and maiden-hair ferns. Tie these with wide pink satin ribbons, a long end of which should extend from each bouquet down to the place of each of the women guests, and have her name painted in gold upon it. Then there should be boutonnières of pink carnations for the men.
Menu cards are not ordinarily used at any but the most formal kind of an entertainment. They are always seen at large functions, men’s public dinners, etc., which are usually given in a hotel or restaurant; but in a private house individual menu cards, whether at a dinner or a luncheon, are exceptional.
When the dinner is large and formal, or even when it numbers only eight or ten, it is wise to have small cards with the names of the guests at each place at the table, and, if the guests are strangers to each other, to have a tray in the men’s dressing-room or hall where they remove their coats and hats with tiny envelopes addressed to each, containing little cards on which is written the name of the dinner partner. The hostess must see that, as soon as two dinner partners are in the receiving room before dinner, they meet each other, and have a chance for a little conversation before the meal is announced; and she should also make a point to introduce each woman before dinner to the man who is to sit on the other side of her.
Introductions are not proper at the table, and at a large dinner it is awkward to introduce all one’s guests to each other before the meal. At a small dinner, of course, it is not necessary to observe all this formality, and the hostess may introduce her guests to each other without much ceremony, when the company numbers only four or six; but with more, each woman should be provided with a partner who escorts her to the table. At a small function there need be but a few minutes of waiting before the guests are all seated. The guest of honor sits at the right of the host.
As to the manner of arranging the table, there is some difference of opinion. However, generally speaking, there should be a napkin, squarely folded, in front of each guest, and at the left of it the forks, i. e., a fish fork and a large and a small ordinary fork. At the right of the napkin should be the knives and spoons, a glass, bread-and-butter plate (if used), and a salt cellar; and in the center of the table on an embroidered centerpiece or circular mirror, the floral decorations. At the head of the table, upon an embroidered square, are laid the tea service,—the urn, the cups and saucers, the cream pitcher, sugar bowl, etc.; at the other end are placed the dishes for serving. Scattered about on circular doilies are the dishes of jelly, preserves, pickles (sweet and sour), olives, salted almonds, etc.
Chafing-dishes are used to prepare such dishes as terrapin, oysters, or whatever may be cooked absolutely on the table. A napkin and plate, or tray, is best liked for removing crumbs.
Finger bowls should always follow the last course at formal and informal meals alike, except at breakfast, when, if fruit is the first course, the finger-bowl is put on the table when the covers are laid ready for the fruit course.
Spoon-holders are no longer used, but if one should be fancied it would be better to put the bowl of the spoon in the holder first.
Unless one serves something more than wafers, small cakes, tea, and chocolate on an “at home” day, napkins are not necessary; if, however, there is some dish that will soil the fingers or the lips, then there should be a pile of small napkins on the tea-table.
Tooth-picks should not be put on the table, nor should they be used outside one’s own room.
It is not necessary to fold one’s napkin when only one meal is to be eaten in the house in which one is staying.
The day for tying cakes, sandwiches, etc., with ribbons has passed.
The waitress should stand with a tray in her hand behind the host’s chair to receive each plate as it is filled, passing it to the left of the guest, and waiting for him to remove it. When the hostess is pouring tea or coffee, the maid’s place is by her left side in waiting for the cups. After that she should be on the alert to see when the glasses need filling, or when there is bread, pickles, or anything to be passed. When removing the plates it should be from the right side of the guest, but everything should be offered at the left that the right hand may be used to receive it.
When a dish is passed and there is no maid in attendance, one should help himself and pass it on. If a dish is standing near one, under such circumstances, he may quite properly ask if he may help himself, and do so.
When a plate is passed for a helping, the knife and fork are laid well to the side of the plate, so placed that they will not fall off, and yet not be in the way of the server.
All the appurtenances of each course should be removed before the succeeding one is served. The bread-and-butter plates, however, should be removed before the salad course, as crackers and cheese are passed with this, the salad plate being used to hold all three things.
The salted almonds should be started about the table by the hostess soon after the guests are seated. Some hostesses possess cut-glass or china individual dishes, on which the almonds are placed when the guest helps himself, but it is quite usual for them to be placed on the bread-and-butter plate.
Bonbons should be passed by the maid when the coffee is served, and eaten from the plate from which the finger-bowl and doily have been removed.
It is not important whether tumblers or goblets are used on the dinner-table; each season brings its own custom.
The bread-and-butter plates at a formal dinner serve the purpose only of bread plates, as it is not customary to serve butter on such occasions. If it is used, however, butter should be made into tiny balls, and one or two placed on each bread-and-butter plate.
It is customary to put the vegetables served with the meat on the same plate. The use of individual dishes for vegetables is no longer approved.
Oranges are seldom served at dinner unless they are specially prepared, that is, with the skin taken off, and the sections divided, in which case the fruit is eaten from a fork.
Cheese and crackers of some sort are always served with salad courses.
At a formal dinner bouillon or consommé is usually served in soup-plates. At a supper or luncheon it is oftenest served in cups. The regulation cups are those having handles on each side.
When oysters are served on the half-shell, they are usually placed upon the table before the meal is announced.
It is not customary to serve fruit as a first course at dinner, though at a lunch it is quite proper.
Grape-fruit must be served ice cold. It is served in two ways: either it is cut in halves, midway between the blossom and the stem end, the seeds removed, the pulp loosened with a sharp knife, but served in the natural skin, to be eaten with a spoon; or the pulp and seeds are entirely removed from the skin with a sharp knife, and the edible part only served in deep dessert plates. Pulverized sugar should accompany grape-fruit.
In waiting upon plates, one should never pour gravy on the food, but place it at one side.
The salad course at dinner always succeeds the game course.
After dinner coffee is served in small cups and without cream. In many houses rock-candy, crushed in very small pieces, is used as a substitute for sugar, the claim being made that it gives a purer sweetness.
Cut sugar is served with coffee, and powdered sugar with fruit or oatmeal.
Coffee may be served at the table or in the drawing-room as is best liked. People are not asked if they will have it; it is served to them. Only sugar is offered with black coffee.