Textile Fabrics / A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum

by Daniel Rock

8320.

Orphrey, woven of crimson wool and white linen thread. The pattern is of flowers and leaves on a trellis of branches, in which appear the names of “Jhesus,” “Maria.” German, end of 15th century. 2 feet 8½ inches by 2¾ inches.

In this textile the warp is of white strong linen thread, the woof of crimson wool; and stuffs of such cheap materials were wrought to serve as orphreys to tunicles and dalmatics worn by deacon and sub-deacon at high mass, and in processions, as well as for trimming other adornments for church use; the liturgical girdle neither is, nor ever was made, according to the Latin rite, of so broad a width, nor after such a fashion; in the Greek ritual, broad girdles are in use.

The weavers of laces for carriage-trimming, or the adornment of state liveries, will in this specimen see that, more than three hundred years ago, their craft was practised in Germany; and Cologne appears to have been the centre of such a loom production.