The Jacquard Machine Analyzed and Explained / With an appendix on the preparation of jacquard cards, and practical hints to learners of jacquard designing

by E. A. Posselt

1st. The Jacquard Harness threaded on the machine in the direction from Front to Rear.

This tie-up is represented in [Fig. XXV.]

Fig. XXV.

As mentioned in the heading of this article, the Jacquard harness, or the leashes, are fastened to the machine in rotation from front to rear, the threading of the comber-board being done from rear to front. The comber-board is in three divisions. The machine used for illustrating is a 400 Jacquard 8-row machine, and the comber-board used is also 8 rows deep. This method of tying-up of the leashes forms what is technically known as “open harness.” As the drawing is designed to explain a 400 machine, 8 rows drawn in the comber-board, also 8 rows deep, one row in height of the cylinder will equal one row in depth on the comber-board. In examining the illustration the eye must follow the line connecting the numbers on the neck-cords to the corresponding numbers near the holes on the comber-board. If this be done, the tie-up will readily explain itself. It will also explain the method of procedure if a machine is used containing a different number of needles and hooks, and a comber-board having as many rows in depth as there are griffe-bars in the machine. For example, a 600 machine, with 12 griffe-bars, needs for this tie-up a comber-board 12 rows deep; and a 200 machine, with 8 griffe-bars, requires a comber-board 8 rows deep, etc., etc.

Fig. XXVI.

The drawing shows a comber-board with 3 divisions, each division furnishing one harness-cord to each neck-cord, making in all three harness-cords to every neck-cord. The same tie-up will apply should the drawing contain a different number of divisions. The illustration shows only the first and last rows of each division in the comber-board, and also the first and last rows of neck-cords.

The design below the drawing represents a damask fabric to be executed on this tie-up, requiring the whole number of needles for one repeat of the pattern of 400 threads. In designing for these tie-ups it is necessary to arrange the design to repeat itself in the number of needles that will be used in producing the fabric. The first and last threads must connect with each other, without interruption, forming a continuous design over all the divisions. Thus we find, in fabric design of a damask towel, [Fig. XXVI.], the repeat (division) from A to B. In the centre of the design marked a, and the main part of the border marked c, we find one repeat; whereas borders b and b´ repeat 8 times.

In the fabric illustrated by design, [Fig. XXVII.], again a damask towel, the repeat, or one division, is also indicated by A to B. The centre of the fabric, a, repeats twice in one division; borders b and b´ repeat four times in the same distance; whereas the main design of the border indicated by c requires one complete division.

Fig. XXVII.