B. Lacing of Jacquard Cards by Machine.
Different styles of machines are constructed for doing this work, among which we find machines requiring two needles for each series of holes in the Jacquard cards, and machines using one shuttle in connection with each needle. The Jacquard cards mostly needed are for machines containing 400, 600, etc., hooks and needles.
The Jacquard cards for these sizes have three series of lace-holes, and the number of needles, or needles and shuttles, used in the machine, is proportionally increased.
The Method of using Two Needles for Lacing each Series of Holes
Is the one most extensively employed, hence we will take this machine (W. P. Uhlinger, Phila., builder,) for the subject.
Fig. 32.
[Fig. 32] represents the perspective view of a lacing machine for 600 Jacquard cards. The table is located at a convenient height, and is 33-1/2 by 36-1/2 inches. Two grooves, each 1-1/16 inches by 26-1/2 inches, are located five inches from front and rear respectively, and 9-1/8 inches from each side. A third groove of the same size is situated in the centre, 6-1/32 inches from the others. An endless chain runs in each groove, consisting of 24 links, corresponding in length to the width of the card to be laced. Each link of the two outside chains has a peg of a size corresponding to the one used on the cylinder in the Jacquard machine.
Fig. 33.
[Fig. 33] illustrates the side view of a link, and the method of jointing: a, the peg; c, the joint of link; the length of each link being 3-1/2 inches, and the height 1/3 inch at the joint; the diameter of the pegs at the bottom, 3/8 inch; the height of each peg, 1/2 inch.
Fig. 34.
[Fig. 34] shows the top view of [Fig. 33], illustrating two complete links. The body of each link is 2-3/8 inches long; the head, 5/8 inch long; the slot, 1 inch long. a represents the peg; e the empty spaces between each pair of links, to receive the teeth (1/2 inch high) of wheel (8 inches diameter, [Fig. 36]). This wheel holds and guides the endless chain; also imparts the required movement to the cards. It is regulated by a cam arrangement. [See [Fig. 35].]
Fig. 35.
Fig. 36.
Two needles are required for each of the three series of lace-holes, or six needles in all. The process of lacing each series is the same; as the three horizontal working needles are connected to one rod; thus, by working this rod, they are operated correspondingly. The three vertical working needles are arranged in the same manner, and also the three loop-guides.
Fig. 37.
[Fig. 37] shows a top view of one of the loop-guides, d, a, c. The dotted lines near a represent the position of the corresponding “presser” for the cards during the lacing process. Length of strip c, = 5 inches; length of strip d, = 13 inches; width of each strip, = 3/4 inch; width of empty space, between c and d, = 3/4 inch. b indicates the top view of the vertical working needle. Arrow, S, direction the cards run while being laced. As previously mentioned, two needles are required for each series of lace-holes.
Fig. 38.
[Fig. 38] shows the top view of the needle, which works in a horizontal direction. [Fig. 39] side view of the same. [Fig. 38] is shown threaded, whereas [Fig. 39] is not threaded, so as to give a clear view of the eye. This needle is fastened to its holder by means of screw, d; the blade of the needle extends 3-1/2 inches; width of needle at bottom, 3/16 inch.
Fig. 39.
Two different sets of lacing twines are used, viz.:
1st. Set of fine thread running from three spools shown in a vertical position on the side of the machine, used for threading the needles running in a horizontal direction. In our explanation we denote this twine with “a.” (7-ply, No. 14 soft laid mule yarn.)
2d. The set of heavy twine running from spools arranged horizontally near the bottom in rear of machine is threaded to the vertical needles. This twine is indicated by “b” in our explanations. (No. 24 braid banding.)
Fig. 40.
In [Fig. 38], arrow, e, illustrates the twine, “a,” as coming off the spools. On the bottom of the “holder” is an extension which is separately illustrated in its front view by [Fig. 40]. This extension contains a pin marked k, which guides the twine into the hole, l; (e and arrow in [Fig. 38] correspond with e and arrow in [Fig. 40]).
Fig. 41.
The position of this twine in working is shown in [Fig. 38]. C, the crossing of the two twines preparatory to forming the loop, is illustrated. The mechanical construction is such that needle, a, is withdrawn from loop at the same time needle, b, commences to rise, placing the twines in position shown in [Fig. 41]. Needle, b, will in turn pull down as soon as needle, a, is ready for moving forward. By moving needle, b, down, its twine will form a loop, [see [Fig. 42]], held in its position by the “loop-guide,” [Fig. 37]. Through this loop, needle, a, is again inserted. Needle, b, will leave the card below as soon as needle, a, is in its loop. At this juncture the cards will be moved by means of the catch and chain of links one hole or one space between cards, whichever may be required. After this is done, needle, b, will rise in its new place, and at the same time needle, a, commences its backward journey through the loop shown and explained in Figs. [38] and [41] at the beginning; thus ready for a repetition of the two movements.
Fig. 42.
The foregoing explanations will give the principle of this card-lacing machine as follows: “One needle holds the other’s twine until the other needle has moved one point ahead.”
Lacing Machine working with One Needle and One Shuttle for each Series of Holes.
Fig. 43.
[Fig. 43] illustrates the side elevation. [Fig. 44] illustrates the front elevation. The construction of this machine and its working are as follows:
Over the prisms, B, C, D, of the same size and shape as a cylinder of the Jacquard machine, run three endless chains. Surrounded by this endless chain is the shuttle-box, E, with three shuttles, one of which is illustrated in [Fig. 45]. On each of these shuttles a toothed rod, K, is fastened, the teeth of which work in the circles, H, H, as soon as a shuttle is put in its lay, J. This toothed rod, which runs underneath the circles, H, is used to move the shuttles to and fro. L indicates the pulleys for driving the machine. M´ and O, O´, the gear-wheels; Q, the lever, and P, its guide, connected as shown. The bent needles, Z, work in connection with the shuttles, E. These needles are tubes through which the twine for lacing from spools, A, are passed. These tubes are adjusted to rod, S, which swings around pin, T, and gets its motion from rod, U, V, W.
Fig. 44.
The Jacquard cards are placed on the machine at B´, and move in rotation under needle, Z. The movement of the cards must be so regulated that, notwithstanding the want of uniformity in the arrangement of the holes, each hole in turn must come directly under the lacing needles.
The lacing of the cards is produced as follows: After the cards have moved one hole, the needles, Z, lower to P´, [Fig. 43], making the shed. The shuttles move with their points under the thread thus lowered by the needle, and pass clear through the loop. After the needles rise, they will in turn tighten the loop, the shuttles return to their original position, and the work repeats.
This method of lacing Jacquard cards has the disadvantage of compelling the machine to be stopped oftener than if using the two-needle system ([Fig. 32]), as the shuttles will only hold a small quantity of lacing twine.
Fig. 45.
PRACTICAL HINTS
TO
LEARNERS OF JACQUARD DESIGNING.
Designers for Jacquard work, in addition to being good draughtsmen, must be thoroughly acquainted with the three systems of weaves: plain, twills and satins, and their sub-divisions; also with the structure of double cloth, three-ply cloth, four-ply cloth, etc. He must know the influence of the texture upon the weaves and the fabric; the arrangement of the threads in the dents of the reed; the different systems of tying-up the Jacquard harness; and the stamping of the Jacquard cards for the various kinds of textile fabrics.
Squared Designing Paper for the Different Textile Fabrics Executed on the Jacquard Machine.
The classifying of the □ designing paper is done by enclosing a number of small rectangles, horizontal and vertical, within a certain distance by a heavy line. Such enclosures are known in practice as “squares.” The spaces between the vertical lines indicate the warp-threads, and those between the horizontal lines the filling threads. As a rule the warp dimension is indicated first; and a design paper having five rectangles vertical with ten horizontal, is variously read and indicated as 5 by 10, 5 × 10, or 5/10.
[Figs. 46 to 68] represent some of the styles of □ designing paper most frequently used. The size of the square may vary in each kind of paper, and must be selected according to the fabric to be sketched. For example: There are three styles of 8 × 8 □ designing paper in general use: One forming 1/2 inch heavy squares, ([Fig. 48]), one forming 3/4 inch heavy squares, ([Fig. 64]), and the other forming 1 inch heavy squares. These sizes may still be varied.
The principle of these three kinds of □ designing paper is identical, the size preferred being left to the pleasure of the designer. If a design is to be made for a great number of needles, say 600, 900, 1200, etc., it will be best to use the smallest size; whereas in a design for only 100 to 200 needles the larger sizes may be employed.
