Methods of Setting the Figures.
To give a clear illustration of this, Figs. [69], [70], [71], [72], [73], [74], [75], and [76] are designed, representing a few of the methods most frequently used. A separate explanation of each will familiarize the student with this part of the work.
Fig. 69.
Fig. 70.
Fig. 71.
Fig. 72.
[Fig. 69] illustrates the setting of a figure in “plain.” The space allowed for one repeat (outline of the square) is shown divided horizontally and vertically into two equal parts each way. [See dotted lines a, b, and c, d, thus giving the centre for the square at S.] The design contains two circles in its repeat; one of these circles is shown with its centre at S, and the other circle is illustrated divided into four quarters, as shown in the four corners of the square.
[Fig. 70] represents another “plain” setting, but the figure employed, a half-moon with a small circle near it, is set in two directions.
[Fig. 71] illustrates a design having in its repeat two different figures, each set by itself in “plain.” A third figure, ring e, f, g, h, is used four times to break the general prominence of the effect.
Diagram for Fig. 72.
[Fig. 72] shows the setting of a figure in a design similar to a “four-harness broken twill.”
[Fig. 73] shows a combination of one figure set in four-harness broken twill style, the other set in plain.
[Fig. 74] shows the setting of a figure in the “five-leaf satin” style. [See diagram, [p. 109].]
[Fig. 75] shows the setting of two figures in the “six-leaf satin” style.
[Fig. 76] illustrates the setting of one figure in the “eight-leaf satin” method.
Fig. 73.
Fig. 74.
Fig. 75.
Fig. 76.
Diagram for Fig. 74.
Diagram for Fig. 76.
In setting figures in a sketch the appearance of “streaks” must be avoided. To do this it will be found advantageous to sketch more than one repeat of the pattern; if possible, sketch two each way, that the streaking, if any, may show itself in the sketch, and be corrected there. Nearly all the patterns seen in fabrics which show streaks can be traced to designers who prepare their designs without sketches; for if a sketch had been made, the streaking of the fabric might have been foreseen had the designer exercised proper care in the examination and perfecting of his sketch. Figures taken from plants, or from life, can be set in the same manner as explained for Figs. [69] to [76]. For example, [Fig. 77], the figure for design. [Fig. XXXIV.], p. 32, the latter being set after the method illustrated by [Fig. 70.]
Fig. 77.
Figs. [XXV.], [XXVI.], [XXXIII.], [XXXVIII.], [XLI]., [XLIV.], [XLV.],[ XLVII.], [XLVIII.], [LI.], [LV.], [LVII.], [LXI.], etc., all show sketches for fabrics executed on one or the other methods of construction just explained.