SHERRY FLAVOR.
In many California wines a flavor called the “sherry flavor” is often observed; and in the red wines may frequently be tasted what would with equal propriety be called a “port flavor;” and the “sherry flavor” would by some be called a “Madeira flavor.”
Mr. Pohndorff stated at the State Viticultural Convention of 1882, that he was of the opinion that this flavor was due to the oxidation of the wine. If this is so, the remedy would be to use greater care in its management, and avoid exposing it to the air, in fact, observe just the treatment indicated in this book for all but sweet and fortified wines.
Without attempting to say anything authoritative on the subject, the author would suggest that in addition to the above cause, these flavors are largely due, first, to our hot climate; second, to over-maturity of the grapes; and third, to aging the wine in too high a temperature; for these conditions all exist in southern countries, whose wines are apt to have a peculiar flavor, called by some writers the “cooked flavor,” which is unobjectionable in a sweet wine. The first is not always within the control of the producer, but the two last can always be controlled by the grape grower and the cellar-man.
