LESSON XXI
WHERE PRECIOUS STONES ARE FOUND
Occurrence of Diamond. Every dealer in precious stones should know something of the sources of the gems that he sells. The manner of the occurrence of the rough material is also a matter of interest. It will therefore be the purpose of this lesson to give a brief account of the geographical sources of the principal gems and of their mode of occurrence in the earth.
For the sake of uniformity of treatment we will once more follow the descending order of hardness among the gems and we thus begin by describing the occurrence of diamond. It will be of interest to note first that the earliest source of the diamond was India, and that for many years India was almost the sole source. Tavernier tells us that the diamond mining industry was in a thriving state during the years from 1640 to 1680, during which time he made six journeys to India to purchase gems. He speaks of Borneo as another source of diamonds, but most of the diamonds of that time were furnished by India.
"Golcondas." Indian diamonds were noteworthy for their magnificent steely blue-white quality and their great hardness, and occasionally one comes on the market to-day with an authentic pedigree, tracing its origin back to the old Indian mines, and such stones usually command very high prices. One of a little over seven and one half carats in weight, in the form of a perfect drop brilliant, has lately been offered for sale at a price not far from $1,000 per carat. Such diamonds are sometimes called "Golcondas" because one of the mining districts from which the fine large Indian stones came was near the place of that name. Some of the stones from the Jägersfontein mine in South Africa resemble the Golcondas in quality. Many of the large historical crown diamonds of Europe came from the Indian mines.
The stones were found in a sedimentary material, a sort of conglomerate, in which they, together with many other crystalline materials, had become imprisoned. Their original source has never been determined. They are therefore of the so-called "River" type of stone, having probably been transported from their original matrix, after the disintegration of the latter, to new places of deposit, by the carrying power of river waters.
The Indian mines now yield very few stones. The United States Consular reports occasionally mention the finding of a few scattered crystals but the rich deposits were apparently worked out during the seventeenth century and the early part of the eighteenth century.
In 1725 and in the few following years the Brazilian diamond fields began to supersede those of India. Like the latter, the Brazilian fields were alluvial, that is, the materials were deposited by river action after having been carried to some distance from their original sources.
Brazilian Diamonds. The diamonds of Brazil also resembled those of India in quality, being on the average better than those of the present South African mines. It may be added that even the African diamonds that are found in "river diggings" average better in quality than those of the volcanic pipes which form the principal source of the world's supply to-day. There seems to be a superabundance of iron oxide in the rocks of the African mines and in the diamonds themselves, imparting yellow or brownish tints to the material. The "River" stones seem to have lost this color to a considerable extent, if they ever had it. Possibly long extraction with water has removed the very slightly soluble coloring material. Whatever the cause of their superiority "River" stones have always been more highly regarded than stones from the volcanic pipes.
Brazil furnished the world's principal supply of diamonds until the discovery of the African stones in 1867. At present relatively small numbers of Brazilian stones reach the world's markets. Most of these come from the great Bahia district (discovered in 1844) rather than from the older mines of Brazil. The present Brazilian stones average of small size. They are, however, of very good quality as a rule. A few green stones are found in Brazil and these may be of an absinthe-green or of a pistachio-green tint.
Australian and American Sources. While a few diamonds now come on the market from New South Wales, and while an occasional stone is found in the United States (usually in glacial drift in the north central States, or in volcanic material somewhat resembling that of South Africa in Arkansas) yet the world's output now comes almost entirely from South Africa and mainly from the enormous volcanic pipes of the Kimberly district and those of the Premier Co. in the Transvaal.
South African Diamonds. The nature of the occurrence of diamond in the "pipes" of South Africa is so well known to all who deal in diamonds to-day that but little space need be devoted to it. The "blue ground," as the rock in which the diamonds are found is called, seems to have been forced up from below, perhaps as the material of a mud volcano, bringing with it the diamonds, garnets, zircons, and the fifty or more other minerals that have been found in the blue ground. The fragmentary character of some of these minerals would indicate that the blue ground was not their original matrix. How the diamonds originally crystallized and where, is still probably a matter for further speculation.
While at first the mines were worked, like quarries, from the surface, and while the great Premier mine is still so worked, most of the present mines are worked by sinking shafts in the native rock outside of the blue ground and then tunneling into the diamond-bearing rock laterally, removing it to the surface, allowing it to weather on the "floors" until it crumbles, then crushing and washing it and concentrating the heavy minerals by gravity methods. Large diamonds are then picked out of the concentrates by hand and small ones and fragments are removed by the "greasers," which are shaking tables heavily smeared with grease over which the concentrates are washed and to which diamond alone, of all the minerals in the concentrate, sticks. The grease is periodically removed and melted, and the diamonds secured. The grease can then be used again.
German South West Africa furnishes a considerable output of very small diamonds, which are found in dry sand far from any present rivers. These diamonds cut to splendid white melee and the output is large enough to make some difference in the relative price of small stones as compared to large ones. The South West African field seldom yields a stone that will afford a finished quarter-carat diamond.
Rubies. Passing on to the occurrence of the corundum gems we will consider first the ruby. Most fine rubies come from Burmah. The district in which they are found is near Mogok. Practically all the fine pigeon-blood rubies come from this district. The fashion for red stones being for the time little in evidence rubies are not now in great demand. This cessation of demand can hardly be laid to the competition of the scientific ruby, for the sapphire is now very much in vogue, yet scientific sapphires resemble the natural ones even more closely than do the rubies.
Siam furnishes a considerable number of dark garnet-like rubies. These do not command high prices. They are, however, sometimes very beautiful, especially when well cut for brilliancy, and when in a strong light.
Ceylon furnishes a few rubies and a few red corundums have been found in North Carolina.
The Burmese rubies appear to have been formed in a limestone matrix, but most of those obtained are gotten from the stream beds, where they have been carried by water after weathering out from the mother rock.
The rubies of Ceylon, too, probably originated in a limestone matrix, but are sought in stream gravels.
Sapphires. Fine blue sapphires originate in Siam in larger numbers than in any other locality. Kashmir, in India, also supplies splendid specimens of large size. Ceylon, too, furnishes a good deal of sapphire, but mostly of a lighter color than the Kashmir sapphire. The Ceylon sapphires are found in the streams, but originate in rock of igneous origin.
Montana furnishes considerable quantities of sapphire, some of which is of very good color. It is, of course, as good as the Oriental if of equal color, being of the same material. The better colored sapphire from Montana is mined from the rock. Most of the sapphires found in the river gravels near Helena, Mont., are greenish blue or of other colors, and not of fine blue.
Queensland and Victoria in Australia supply considerable quantities of sapphire. When blue the Australian sapphire is usually too dark to be very valuable. The golden and other "fancy" sapphires of the trade come largely from the Ceylon gravels. Siam yields silky brown stones and some fine green ones. Some of the Australian sapphires when cut in certain directions yield green stones.
Chrysoberyl. Chrysoberyl of the variety Alexandrite now comes mainly from Ceylon, although formerly from the Ural Mountains.
The cat's-eyes also come chiefly from Ceylon.
The yellowish-green chrysoberyls (which jewelers sometimes call chrysolite) come both from Ceylon and from Brazil. They are frequently found in papers of "fancy sapphires" or "fancy color stones," so called.
Spinel. Spinels are found along with ruby in Burmah and in Siam and they also occur in the gem gravels of Ceylon. Limestone is the usual matrix of spinel, although it is more often mined in gravels resulting from the weathering of the matrix.
Topaz. True topaz, of wine-yellow color, comes mostly from Brazil. Ceylon also furnishes yellow topaz. Asiatic Russia furnishes fine large blue or blue-green crystals resembling aquamarine in appearance. Most of the topaz found in other localities is pale or colorless. Several of our western States, notably Utah, Colorado, and California, furnish colorless topaz. Mexico and Japan also produce it. It is seldom cut, for, while producing a rather brilliant stone, it has little "fire" and is therefore not very attractive.
Emerald and Aquamarine. Beryl of the emerald variety is exceedingly scarce in the earth. Most of the best emerald comes from Colombia, South America. Large crystals of paler color come from the Urals.
Like ruby and spinel, emerald usually originates in limestone. One is tempted to suspect that these stones are of aqueous origin and that sapphires, and beryl, other than emerald, are more likely of igneous origin.
Beryls of the aquamarine type occur in many places, but usually of too pale a tint, or too imperfect, to be worthy of cutting. Fine gem beryl of blue and blue-green tints comes from Siberia and from several places in the Ural Mountains on their Asiatic slopes.
The Minas Geraes district of Brazil, famous for all kinds of gem stones, furnishes most of the aquamarine of commerce. The pegmatite dikes of Haddam Neck, Conn., of Stoneham, Me., and of San Diego County, Cal., have furnished splendid aquamarine and other beryl. These dikes, according to the geological evidence, are the result of the combined action of heat and water. Thus both melting and dissolving went on together and as a result many fine gem minerals of magnificent crystallization were formed during the subsequent cooling. The longer the cooling lasted and the more free space for growth the crystals had, the larger and more perfect they got. The author has himself obtained finely crystallized aquamarine and tourmaline from the Haddam, Conn., locality and the best specimens there occur in "pockets" or cavities in the coarse granite. Within, these pockets are lined with crystals of smoky quartz, tourmaline, beryl, and other minerals. Sometimes crystals occur in mud or clay masses inside the cavities and such crystals, having been free to grow uninterruptedly in every direction, were perfect in form, being doubly terminated, and not attached anywhere to the rock.
Madagascar has in recent years furnished the finest pink beryl, which has been named Morganite. Yellow beryl (Heliodor) and aquamarine also occur in Madagascar.
Zircon. Zircon comes on the market mainly from Ceylon. It deserves to be as much esteemed in this country as it is in Ceylon, for its optical properties are such that it is a very snappy stone. Some of the colors in which it occurs, such as the golden browns, lend themselves nicely to the matching of gems and garments, and, with the growth of education in such matters, jewelers would do well to get better acquainted with the possibilities of zircon and to introduce it to their customers. The supply from Ceylon is sufficient to justify popularizing the stone. Small zircons are found in almost every heavy concentrate, as, for example, in the concentrates of the diamond mines of South Africa, and in those of gold placers in many places. The rough stones resemble rough diamonds in luster and are sometimes mistaken for diamonds.
Garnets. Garnets of various types are found widely distributed in nature. Perhaps the Bohemian supply is best known, having furnished a host of small stones which have usually been rose cut for cluster work or made into beads. The Bohemian garnets are of the pyrope or fire-red type. Relatively few large stones of sufficient transparency for cutting are produced in the Bohemian mines. The so-called "Cape rubies" of the diamond mines of South Africa are pyrope garnets and some large and fine ones are found. The "Arizona rubies" are pyrope garnets, and while seldom of notable size, some are of very fine color, approaching deep rubies, and the color remains attractive by artificial light.
Almandite garnet, the "almandine" of the jeweler is less abundant than pyrope, when of gem quality. Ceylon furnishes some and India furnishes perhaps more. Brazil, from its prolific gem gravels at Minas Novas, supplies good almandite, and smaller quantities are found in many different localities.
Hessonite garnet, the cinnamon stone or "hyacinth" (incorrect) of the trade, comes mainly from Ceylon.
Andradite garnet, of the variety known as demantoid, from its diamond-like properties, and which is usually sold under the misleading name "olivine" in the trade, comes from the western slopes of the Ural Mountains.
Tourmaline. Gem tourmaline comes from Ceylon, from Madagascar, from the Ural Mountains, from Brazil, from Maine, from Connecticut, and from California.
The Ceylon tourmalines are mostly yellow or yellowish green, sometimes fine olive-green. Those from the Urals may be pink, blue or green. Brazilian tourmalines are usually green, but sometimes red. In fact in many localities several colors of tourmaline are usually found together and it may be that a single crystal will be green in most of its length but red or pink tipped. Some crystals have a pink core and a green exterior. The author has found both of the two latter types in the Haddam, Conn., tourmalines, and on one occasion was surprised to get back a wine-colored tourmaline from a cutter to whom he had sent a green crystal. There was but a thin shell of the green material on the outside of the crystal.
Some of the Madagascar tourmaline is of a fine brownish red, almost as deep as a light garnet, and much clearer than most garnet.
Would it not be fitting on account of its occurrence in several localities in the United States, for Americans to use more tourmaline in their jewels? The quality of some of the tourmalines of Maine, and of California especially, is not excelled by tourmaline from any other locality. Some of the Maine tourmaline is of a delightful, slightly bluish-green tint that almost approaches emerald.
Kunzite. Spodumene, of the variety kunzite, comes from San Diego County, California.
Quartz Gems. Coming now to the quartz gems we find amethyst and citrine, or golden quartz widely distributed so that only the localities that furnish the better grades of these stones need be mentioned. Siberia and Uruguay furnish fine amethyst. Brazil also furnishes large quantities of very good quality.
Amethyst. The chief charm of the Siberian amethyst lies in its large red component, which enables it to change from a deep grape-purple by daylight to a fine red by artificial light that is rich in red rays, and poor in blue ones. The paler types of amethysts that were once esteemed, probably for lack of the rich deep variety, become gray in appearance and much less lovely under artificial light. India furnishes some amethysts, and papers of "fancy color stones" containing native cut gems from Ceylon, frequently contain amethysts, but Brazil, Uruguay, and Siberia furnish the great bulk of the stones that are regarded as choice to-day.
Yellow Quartz. Citrine or golden quartz comes mainly from Brazil. The "Spanish topaz" is sometimes the result of heating smoky quartz from Cordova province in Spain. Our own western mountains furnish considerable yellow and smoky quartz fit for cutting.
Rose Quartz. Rose quartz of the finest quality comes from South Dakota. Bavaria, the Ural Mountains, and Paris, Maine, have also furnished it.
Agate. Agates of the finest types, such as carnelian and sard, come principally from Brazil and from India.
Opal. Opals now come most largely from Australia, the Hungarian mines yielding but few stones at present. The fine black opals of New South Wales are unsurpassed by any that have ever been found elsewhere. Mexico furnishes considerable opal, and is notable for its fine "fire opal" or "cherry opal."
Jade. Most of the jade of the variety nephrite that is obtained to-day comes from several of the provinces of China or from Siberia or from Turkestan. A dark-green nephrite comes from New Zealand.
Jade of the jadeite variety, which is harder than nephrite and more highly valued, is rare. The best specimens come from Upper Burmah. It is also found in China and in Tibet.
Peridot. Peridot, and the brighter olivine or chrysolite, while of the same mineral species, do not seem to occur together. The darker bottle-green specimens come from the Island of St. John in the Red Sea. It is said that many of the finer peridots now available have been recut from old stones mined many years ago.
Queensland supplies light-green chrysolite, and Arizona a yellowish-green variety. Light-green stones have been found near the ruby mines of Upper Burmah.
Moonstone. Moonstone comes mainly from Ceylon. The native cut specimens are sent here and recut, as, when native cut, the direction of the grain is seldom correct to produce the moonlight effect in symmetrical fashion. The native cutters apparently try to retain all the size and weight that is possible, regardless of the effect.
Turquoise. Turquoise of the finest blue and most compact texture (and hence least subject to color change) comes from the province of Khorasan in Persia. Several of our western states supply turquoise of fair quality, notably New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, and California.
Lapis Lazuli. Lapis Lazuli comes from Afghanistan, from Siberia, and from South America.
Malachite. Malachite is found in many copper mines, but principally in those of the Ural Mountains.
Azurite. Azurite is found in the Arizona mines and in Chessy, in France (hence the name chessylite, sometimes used instead of azurite).
References. Students who wish to get a fuller account of the occurrence of precious stones should run through G. F. Herbert-Smith's Gem-Stones under the different varieties. This work is the most recent authentic work of a strictly scientific character. Dr. George F. Kunz's Gems and Precious Stones of North America gives a detailed account of all the finds in North America up to the time of publication. Many of these are of course of little commercial importance. The Mineral Resources of the United States contains annually a long account of the occurrences of gem materials in this country. A separate pamphlet containing only the gem portion can be had gratis from the office of the United States Geological Survey, Washington, D. C.
LESSON XXII
HOW ROUGH PRECIOUS STONES ARE CUT
Rough Precious Stones. John Ruskin, who had the means to acquire some very fine natural specimens of gem material was of the opinion that man ought not to tamper with the wonderful crystals of nature, but that rather they should be admired in the rough. While one can understand Ruskin's viewpoint, nevertheless the art of man can make use of the optical properties of transparent minerals, properties no less wonderful than those exhibited in crystallization, and indeed intimately associated with the latter, and, by shaping the rough material in accordance with these optical properties, greatly enhance the beauty of the gem.
No material illustrates the wonderful improvement that may be brought about by cutting and polishing better than diamond. In the rough the diamond is less attractive in appearance than rock crystal. G. F. Herbert-Smith likens its appearance to that of soda crystals. Another author likens it to gum arabic. The surface of the rough diamond is usually ridged by the overlapping of minute layers or strata of the material so that one cannot look into the clear interior any more than one can look into a bank, through the prism-glass windows that are so much used to diffuse the light that enters by means of them. Being thus of a rough exterior the uncut diamond shows none of the snap and fire which are developed by proper cutting.
As the diamond perhaps shows more improvement on being cut than any other stone, and as the art of cutting the diamond is distinct from that of cutting other precious stones, both in the method of cutting and in the fact that the workers who cut diamonds cut no other precious stones, it will be well to consider diamond cutting separately.
Before discussing the methods by which the shaping and polishing are accomplished let us consider briefly the object that is in view in thus altering the shape and smoothing the surface of the rough material.
How Cutting Increases Brilliancy. Primarily the object of cutting a diamond is to make it more brilliant. So true is this that the usual form to which diamonds are cut has come to be called the brilliant. The adjective has become a noun. The increased brilliancy is due mainly to two effects: First, greatly increased reflection of light, and second, dispersion of light. The reflection is partly external but principally internal.
Taking up first the internal reflection which is responsible for most of the white brilliancy of the cut stone we must note that it is a fact that light that is passing through any transparent material will, upon arriving at any polished surface, either penetrate and emerge or else it will be reflected within the material, depending upon the angle at which the light strikes the surface. For each material there is a definite angle outside of which light that is passing as above described, is totally reflected within the material.
Fig. 9.
AB represents the back surface of a piece of diamond.
CD is a line perpendicular to AB.
Angle CDE is about 24 degrees.
Dotted line, FDH represents the course taken by a ray of light which is totally reflected at D in such fashion that angle FDA equals angle HDB.
Any light proceeding towards AB but between E and C, would fail to be totally reflected. Most of it would penetrate AB.
Total Reflection. For diamond this critical angle, as it is called, is very nearly 24° from a perpendicular to the surface. If now, we shape a diamond so that most of the light that enters it from the front falls upon the first back surface that it meets, at an angle greater than 24° to a perpendicular to that surface, the light will be totally reflected within the stone. The angle at which it is reflected will be the same as that at which it meets the surface. In other words the angles of incidence and of reflection are equal. See [Fig. 9] for an illustration of this point.
Theory of the "Brilliant." In the usual "brilliant" much of the light that enters through the front surface is thus totally reflected from the first rear facet that it meets and then proceeds across the stone to be again totally reflected from the opposite side of the brilliant. This time the light proceeds toward the top of the stone. See [Fig. 10]—(From G. F. Herbert-Smith's Gem-Stones).
The angles of the top of a brilliant are purposely made so flat that the up coming light fails to be totally reflected again and is allowed to emerge to dazzle the beholder. In the better made brilliants the angle that the back slope makes with the plane of the girdle is very nearly 41° and the top angle, or angle of the front slope to the plane of the girdle is about 35°. Such well made brilliants when held up to a bright light appear almost black—that is, they fail to pass any of the light through them (except through the tiny culet, which, being parallel to the table above, passes light that comes straight down to it).
Fig. 10.—Course of the Rays of Light Passing Through a Brilliant.
In other words, instead of allowing the light to penetrate them, well-made brilliants almost totally reflect it back toward its source, that is, toward the front of the stone. The well-cut diamond is a very brilliant object, viewed from the front.
We must now consider how the "fire" or prismatic color play is produced, for it is even more upon the display of fire than upon its pure white brilliancy that the beauty of a diamond depends.
Cause of "Fire." As we saw in [Lesson X.] (which it would be well to re-read at this time), white light that changes its course from one transparent medium to another at any but a right angle to the surface involved, is not only refracted (as we saw in [Lesson II.]) but is dispersed, that is, light of different colors is bent by differing amounts and thus we have a separation of the various colors. If this takes place as the ray of light leaves the upper surface of a brilliant the observer upon whose eye the light falls will see either the red, or the yellow, or the blue, as the case may be, rather than the white light which entered the stone. If instead, the dispersion takes place as the light enters the brilliant the various colored rays thus produced will be totally reflected back to the observer (slightly weakened by spreading, as compared to the direct or unreflected spectra). Thus dispersion produces the "fire" in a brilliant.
Other materials than diamond behave similarly, but usually to a much smaller extent, for few gem materials have so high a refractive power or so great a dispersive power as diamond.
Having considered the theory of the brilliant we may now take up a study of the methods by which the exceedingly hard rough diamond is shaped and polished.
Cleaving Diamonds. If the rough material is of poor shape, or if it has conspicuous defects in it which prevent its being made into a single stone, it is cleaved (i. e., split along its grain). Hard as it is, diamond splits readily in certain definite directions (parallel to any of the triangular faces of the octahedral crystal). The cleaver has to know the grain of rough diamonds from the external appearance, even when the crystals, as found, are complicated modifications of the simple crystal form. He can thus take advantage of the cleavage to speedily reduce the rough material in size and shape to suit the necessity of the case. The cleaving is accomplished by making a nick or groove in the surface of the rough material at the proper point (the stone being held by a tenacious wax, in the end of a holder, placed upright in a firm support). A thin steel knife blade is then inserted in the nick and a sharp light blow struck upon the back of the knife blade. The diamond then readily splits.
"Cutting Diamonds." The next step is to give the rough material a shape closely similar to that of the finished brilliant but rough and without facets. This shaping or "cutting" as it is technically called, is done by placing the rough stone in the end of a holder by means of a tough cement and then rotating holder and stone in a lathe-like machine. Another rough diamond (sometimes a piece of bort, unfit for cutting, and sometimes a piece of material of good quality which it is necessary to reduce in size or alter in shape) is cemented into another holder and held against the surface of the rotating diamond. The holder is steadied against a firm support. It now becomes a case of "diamond cut diamond," each stone wearing away the other and being worn away itself.
The cutting process is fairly rapid and it leaves the stone (which is reversed to make the opposite side) round in form and with a rounding top and cone-shaped back. Stones of fancy shape, such as square, or cushion shape, have to be formed in part by hand rubbing or "bruting" as it is called.
The facets must now be polished onto the stone. Usually the workers who cut do not cleave or polish.
"Polishing" Diamonds. The polisher fixes the cut stone firmly in a metallic holder called a dop, which is cleverly designed to hold the stone with much of one side of it exposed. The holder is then inverted so that the stone is beneath and a stout copper wire attached to the holder is then clamped firmly in a sort of movable vise. The latter is then placed on the bench in such a position that the diamond rests upon the surface of a rapidly revolving horizontal iron wheel or "lap" as it is called. The surface of the latter is "charged" with diamond dust, that is, diamond dust has been pushed into the metal surface which thus acts as a support to the dust. The latter wears away the diamond, producing a flat facet. The lap is kept moistened with oil and from time to time fresh oil and diamond dust are applied. A speed of about 2,000 rotations per minute is used.
Facetting. The making of the facets is rather slow work, especially when, as is usually the case in making the "table" the work has to be done against one of the "hard points" of the crystal. Great care has to be taken to place the stone so that the grain lies in a correct position, for diamond cannot be polished against the grain, nor even exactly with it, but only obliquely across it. This requirement, as much as anything, has prevented the use of machines in polishing diamonds. The table is usually first polished on, then the four top slopes, dividing the top surface into quarters, then each of the four ridges thus left, is flattened, making eight facets and finally 32 facets, exclusive of the table, are made upon the top of the brilliant. The stone is then reversed and 24 facets, and the culet, polished on the back. As each facet nears its proper shape the stone is placed upon a particularly smooth part of the lap and a slight vibratory motion given to the holder by the hand. This smooths out any lines or grooves that may have formed because of inequalities of surface of the lap. When completely facetted the brilliant is finished and requires only to be cleaned, when it is ready for sale.