LESSON XXIII
HOW ROUGH PRECIOUS STONES ARE CUT AND WHAT CONSTITUTES GOOD "MAKE"—Concluded
Slitting and Cleaving. The cutting and polishing of precious stones other than diamond is a trade entirely distinct from diamond cutting. The precious stone lapidary cuts every species of stone except diamond. The methods used by different lapidaries vary somewhat in their details, and there are many trade secrets which are more or less jealously guarded by their possessors, but in general the methods used to reduce the rough materials to the finished gems are as follows: First, the rough material, if of too large size, or if very imperfect, is slitted, or, if it possesses a pronounced cleavage, it may be cleaved, in order to reduce the size or to remove imperfect parts. Slitting is accomplished by means of a circular disc of thin metal which is hammered so that it will be flat and rotate truly, and is then clamped between face plates, much as an emery wheel is held. The smooth edge of the circular disc is then charged with diamond dust and oil, the diamond dust being bedded into the edge of the metal disc by the pressure of some hard, fine-grained material, such as chalcedony, or rolled into the metal by the use of a rotating roller. Once charged, and kept freely supplied with oil, a slitting wheel will slice a considerable number of pieces of any precious stone less hard than diamond, and will do so with considerable rapidity. The wheel is, of course, rotated very rapidly for this purpose.
The cleaving of certain gem materials, such as true topaz (which splits perfectly across the prism, parallel to its base) is easily accomplished, and it is done in much the same manner as the cleaving of diamond. The feldspar gems, such as moonstone, amazonite, and labradorite, also cleave very smoothly in certain directions. Spodumene, of which Kunzite is a variety, cleaves almost too easily to be durable. Most gem minerals, however, lack such perfect cleavage and when it is desired to remove imperfect parts, or to reduce large pieces to smaller sizes, these materials are slitted as above described.
"Rubbing Down." The material being of nearly the dimensions of the finished piece, the next step is to "rub it down," as it is called, to approximately the shape and size desired. This rubbing down process was formerly done by means of a soft metal lap (sometimes of lead), charged with coarse emery powder and water. Carborundum, being harder and sharper than emery, has replaced it very largely. Some of the softer materials, such, for example, as turquoise, are rubbed down on a fast flying carborundum wheel of similar type to those used in machine shops for grinding steel tools. These wheels rotate in a vertical plane and are kept wet. The laps before mentioned run horizontally. The carborundum wheels have the grains of carborundum cemented together by means of some binding material and this gradually crumbles, exposing fresh, sharp cutting edges. Various sizes of grain, and various degrees of hardness of the binding material, as well as various speeds, are needed to suit the many different materials rubbed down by the lapidary. Some lapidaries rub down the harder and more valuable gems such as ruby upon diamond charged laps of brass or other metal.
Cabochons. The rubbing down process does not leave a facetted surface, but only a coarse roughly rounded or flattened surface. If the material is to be left in some one of the flat-backed, rounded top forms known as cabochon cut, the surfaces need only to be smoothed (by means of very fine abrasives such as fine emery applied by means of laps, or even by fine emery or carborundum cloth), and they are then ready for polishing.
Facetted Stones. If, however, the stone is to be facetted in either the brilliant form, somewhat like the diamond, or step cut or otherwise facetted, it is cemented strongly onto a holder (much like the wooden part of a pen holder). The upper end of the holder is rested in one of a series of holes in what is called a "ginpeg" resting in the work-bench near a metal lap, and the stone is pressed upon the rapidly rotating surface of the lap, which is charged with diamond dust or carborundum, according to the hardness of the material to be facetted. A flat facet is thus ground upon the stone. By rotating the holder a series of facets, all in the same set, is produced. The holder is then changed to a new position on the ginpeg and another set of facets laid upon the stone. Thus as many as four or five tiers or sets of facets may be applied to one side, say the top of the stone. The latter is then removed from the holder and cemented to it again, this time with the bottom exposed, and several sets of facets applied.
The stone is now cut but not polished. The facets are flat, but have a rough ground-glass like surface. The polishing is usually done by workers who do not cut stones, but who do nothing but polish them. In small shops, however, the same lapidary performs all the parts of the work.
Polishing. The polishing of stones, whether cabochon or facetted, is accomplished by the use of very finely powdered abrasives such as corundum powder, tripoli, pumice, putty powder, etc. Each gem material requires special treatment to obtain the best results. It is here that most of the trade secrets apply.
The troubles of the lapidary in getting the keen polish that is so much admired on fine gems are many. In general, the polishing powder should not be quite as hard as the material to be polished, else it may grind rather than polish. The material should be used with water or oil to give it a creamy consistency. It should be backed by laps of different materials for different purposes. Thus, when backed by a fairly hard metal even tripoli, although much softer, will polish sapphire. On a lap of wood, tripoli would fail to polish hard materials, but would polish amethyst or other quartz gem. A change of speed of the lap, too, changes the effect of the polishing material. I have seen a lapidary, who was having no success at polishing an emerald, get very good results by using a stick as a brake and slowing down his lap.
The polishing material must be of very uniform size, preferably water floated or oil floated, to give good results. The lap must be kept flat and true and the stone must be properly held, or the flatness of the facets, upon which brilliancy depends in part, will be destroyed during the polishing.
The softer materials, such as opal, require treatment more like that accorded cut glass, and soft abrasive powders, such as pumice, suffice to polish them. Probably hardly two lapidaries would work exactly alike in their treatment of precious stones, and each guards his secrets, yet all use approximately similar general methods. Some have devised mechanical holders which permit the repeated cutting of stones to exactly the same angles, and that, too, with an accurate knowledge of the angles used. These angles can be definitely altered for different materials, according to their refractive indices. Other lapidaries produce very fine results by purely hand methods.
These details have been gone into to give an idea of the methods of the lapidary and of the many variations in method. In general, however, the slitting or cleaving, the rubbing down to shape, the smoothing out of all scratches and the facetting and polishing are done somewhat similarly by all lapidaries.
Having now had a glimpse of the methods of the lapidaries, let us briefly consider what constitutes good "make" in stones other than diamond.
Good "Make" in Colored Stones. Brilliants, cut from materials having smaller refractive indices than diamond, (and this group includes nearly all stones other than diamonds) should have steeper back angles and higher tops than the best diamond brilliants have. A 35-degree top angle (the angle between the slope of the top and the plane of the girdle is called the top angle) and a 41-degree back angle being about ideal for diamond, other gem materials should have more nearly a 39-degree top angle and a 44-degree back angle to give the greatest possible brilliancy. However, in the case of colored gems such as ruby, sapphire, etc., where the value depends even more largely upon the color than upon the brilliancy, it is frequently necessary to cut the brilliant thicker or thinner than these proportions in order to deepen or to thin the color.
In general, the thicker a stone of a given spread the deeper the color will be. The color may also be deepened by giving to the stone a rounded contour, both above and below the girdle, and facetting it in steps instead of in the brilliant form. Increasing the number of steps also serves to slightly deepen the color, as a larger number of reflections is thus obtained within the material, the light thus has to travel a greater distance through the colored mass, and more of the light, of color other than that of the stone, is absorbed.
Improving Color by Proper Cutting. In addition to the color improvement that can be brought about by changing the shape of the cut stone there are a number of gem materials whose color varies very greatly in different directions, and this fact calls for skillful use in order to obtain the best possible results. Thus most tourmalines of deep color must be cut with the top or table, of the finished stone, on the side of the prismatic crystal rather than at right angles to the axis of the prism. If cut the latter way they would be much too dense in color. On the other hand, most blue sapphires should be cut across the prism axis rather than the way that tourmalines should be cut. To cut a sapphire with its table on the side of the prism would be likely to cause it to have a greenish cast because of the admixture of the unpleasing "ordinary ray" of yellowish tint with the blue of the stone as seen up and down the prism. Some Australian sapphires are of a pronounced green when viewed across the axis of the crystal.
Rubies if cut, as was recommended for sapphires, give a very pure and very deep red color, but lack somewhat in the display of dichroism given by rubies that are cut with the table on the side of the crystal and parallel to its axis. Lapidaries need to know and to make use of such optical relations as these and jewelers might well inform themselves in such matters, especially if they have, or hope to acquire, trade in very fine colored stones.
Effect of Shape on Brilliancy. In actual practice it is common to find colored stones poorly cut for brilliancy, especially central brilliancy, and that, too, without the excuse of sacrifice of brilliancy in order to improve color. The fault is usually due to too great a desire to save size and weight. Frequently a stone would have greater value if properly cut, even at the expense of some size and weight. When stones are cut too shallow, as is frequently the case, they are sure to leak light in the center and they are thus weak and less brilliant there than they would be if made smaller in diameter and with steeper back slopes approximating 44 degrees.
Round stones, if their angles are correct, are more brilliant than stones of other contour such as square or cushion shape, or navette or heart shape. It can readily be seen that such odd-shaped stones can hardly have the same top and back angles at every part of their circumference. If the angle from a corner of a square stone is correct then the angle from the middle of one side is obviously a little different. Small differences of angle make considerable differences in the brilliancy of cut stones. The prevailing tendency to cut nearly all diamonds round depends largely upon the above facts. In the case of colored stones, however, the added attractiveness which comes with odd or different contour more than makes up for the slight loss of brilliancy that may attend upon the shape selected. Such shapes as lend themselves to special designs in mountings also justify any little loss in brilliancy that accompanies the change in shape, provided the proportions retained give a considerable amount of total reflection within the stone and thus light up most of the stone as seen from the front.
The test of the "make" of a color stone is its appearance. If it lights up well over most of its surface and if the color is right, one should not criticize the "make" as one would be justified in doing in the case of a diamond. If, however, the effect is less attractive it would many times be advisable to measure the angles of the stone, or its thickness and spread as compared with similar measurements on a stone of fine appearance. Frequently one will thus find the reason for the failure of the stone to perform as it might, and recutting should be resorted to in such cases in order to get a smaller but more beautiful and hence more valuable stone.