The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume I / Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels from Prussia thro' Germany, Italy, France, Flanders, Holland, England, &C. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not Only the Present State of the Chief Cities and Towns; but the Characters of the Principal Persons at the Several Courts.

by Freiherr von Karl Ludwig Pöllnitz

LETTER IX.

SIR,Anspach, Sept. 29, 1729.

I came in one day from Wurtzbourg to Anspach, which is twelve Miles, and pass'd thro' two or three little Towns not worth naming. Anspach is the Capital of the Margraviate so call'd, and the Residence of the Margrave of Brandenbourg, Chief of the second Branch of that Family settled in Franconia. 'Tis a small but pretty Town, and very well built. It has no Fortifications, and is only shut in by Walls surrounded with Walks which form a Bulwark. The Prince has a large Castle or Palace building here, which when finish'd will be magnificent. The late Margrave, Father of the present, had begun to build it according to the Models of an Italian Architect; but as he did nothing to answer the Opinion conceiv'd by the Germans that the Italians are the best Architects in the World, perhaps because he was oblig'd to patch up old Walls for the sake of some Rooms: Madame the Margravine Regent, Mother of the young Margrave, continued what her Husband began, but changed the Architect, and makes use of the Baron de Zochau to carry on those Works; who, tho' oblig'd to conform to what was done by the Italian, has succeeded much better than that Foreigner. Madame the Margravine Regent has likewise

caus'd some noble Gardens to be laid out; and this Princess spares no Cost for embellishing the Town of Anspach.

The Margravine Regent[81] is of the Family of Wurtenberg, and may be compar'd for Beauty with the finest Princesses in the World. Being left a Widow at twenty nine Years of Age, she renounc'd all Pleasures, and thought of nothing but the Education of her Son, and the Affairs of her Regency; both of which Duties this Princess discharges in such a manner that her Subjects bless her Government, and the young Margrave cannot but have very great Obligations to her.

Madame the Margravine, besides a charming Person, has a sparkling Wit and a solid Judgment, which she has taken care to cultivate by great reading, and maintains by a Piety and Charity truly Christian. There is in all her Actions such Politeness, and so much Good-nature, as gain her the hearts of all Persons. In fine, without flattering this Princess, I can assure you that her Life is a Pattern of Virtue. She is wean'd from all the Vanities of the Age; she wears neither Gold nor Lace, and has given her Diamonds, which were of very great value, to her Son. She keeps so retir'd to her Apartment, that she is never seen but at Church, at Table, or when she gives Audience; which she never refuses to any body unless when she is tir'd. She is incessantly employ'd, and takes delight in it. She is her own Minister, and her Counsellors are only the Executioners of her Orders.

'Tis pity that Germany is so soon like to lose a Princess who does her Country so much Honour: The Margravine is in so declining a Condition

that there's no hopes of her Recovery. The Physicians have actually told her so; but the Princess, far from being terrify'd at the sad Tidings, receiv'd it like a Christian Heroine: God gave me my Life, said she to her Physicians, he will take it from me when he pleases, his Will be done. She continues to live in the way she always did; and the Approach of Death, which she sees advancing to her with slow Pace, gives her no Trouble nor Tremor; but submitting to the Decrees of Providence, she waits with Resignation for that awful Moment which often makes the stoutest Hearts tremble.

The young Margrave is actually at Paris, so that I cou'd have given you no manner of Account of this Prince, if I had not had the Honour to see him two Years ago. He was born the 12th of May, 1712. He is a handsome, comely, lively Man, has an extraordinary Memory, and if Age matures his Understanding, bids fair to be one day a Prince of a sublime Genius. His Governour was M. de Bremer, a Gentleman of Livonia; and his Præceptor M. Neukirch[82], celebrated for several Essays in Poetry.

Notwithstanding the Reform which Madame the Margravine made in her Court when she came to the Regency, 'tis still very numerous. The Count de Castel is the first Man at this Court, and has the Title of Lord Steward. His Lady commonly attends Madame the Margravine, and does the Offices of Lady of Honour without affecting the Title. M. de Bremer, the Baron de Seckendorf, and the Baron de Zochau, are Privy Counsellors; and the Baron de Kinsberg is Marshal of the Court. As to the Troops the Margravine Regent only keeps up

such a number as is necessary to furnish her Quota to the Empire, and to guard her Person.

The Margraviate of Anspach is very much interspersed with Woods, which makes it a fine Country for Hunting. 'Tis said that it brings in 500000 Crowns every Year to its Sovereign. The Principal Towns are Anspach and Schwabach, in which Manufactures are erected that do great Prejudice to the City of Nuremberg.

I think I ought not to omit acquainting you with two things which are fondly believ'd by the common People, and which the Landlord of the House where I quarter'd affirm'd to me to be Facts. The one is, that there are no Rats in all the Country of Anspach, since one of the Family of the Rat-killing St. Hubert pass'd that way. The other is of the same Tenor, and admitted for a certain Truth by every Subject in the Dominions of the House of Brandenbourg, viz. When any one of this Family dies, whether Prince or Princess, a Woman in White always appears just before in the Palace. I know not whether you ever heard any thing concerning this Prophetess of Ill Luck. Be that as it will, the Story which is told of her is this:

Joachim II. Elector of Brandenbourg, having a mind to enlarge his Palace at Berlin, wanted to buy in several Houses; but an old Woman, the Owner of one of those Houses, resolv'd not to sell it to him upon any Terms. The Elector finding her so obstinate sent her the Purchase-Money and turn'd her out of it; upon which the old Woman swore in a Rage that she wou'd be an eternal Plague to Joachim and his Posterity. They pretend that the good Lady keeps her Word, and that she haunts all the Palaces of the Brandenbourg Family. Yet I never heard any body at Berlin say they had ever seen her there, tho' that is the Place where she ought naturally to have taken up her head Quarters.

My Landlord added to these fine Stories that the Margravine would not die yet a while, because the Woman in White had not yet appear'd to any body at Court.

I am, &c.

---