LETTER VIII.
SIR,Wurtzbourg, Sept. 22, 1729.
When I came hither I had the very great Pleasure to find your Letters, and to hear that you enjoy perfect Health. Continue, I beseech you, to write to me; that being the only Means by which you can persuade me what I wish to be convinced of more than any thing in the World, that my Letters are acceptable to you.
I have been in one of the most disagreeable Roads in all Germany; and tho' the Country abounds with Provisions of all sorts, I had like to have been famished in the Public Houses.
From Gotha, I went to Eysenach, thinking to pass a few Days at that Court, but I found the[78] Duke sick, and the Hereditary Prince and Princess[79] absent, so that I had only my Labour for my Pains.
As the Town of Eysenach offers nothing at all to View which is worth a Traveller's Attention, I set out the same Day for Fulde, where I arrived the next. You know, that this City is the Capital of the Principality of Fulde, the Sovereign of which is an Abbot, a Prince of the Empire, and Chancellor to the Empress. The present Sovereign is Adolphus Baron of Bahlberg, who was chose by the Chapter of the Abbey Church in 1726, in the room of Constantine Baron of Buthler, who died suddenly, and not without suspicion of Poison. Fulde is a dirty little Town open on all sides, and has nothing remarkable but the Abbey Church, and the Prince's Palace, which are two Freestone Buildings that make a very grand Appearance. The Apartments of the Palace are very richly furnish'd. The last Abbot being a Man of good Understanding and great Views, caused this Palace to be so adorn'd as to demonstrate the Wealth of the Abbey.
The Prince Abbot has a Grand Marshal, a Master of the Horse, a Marshal of the Court, several Privy and Aulic Counsellors, a Number of Gentlemen, a Company of Horse-Guards well cloathed and well mounted, a Regiment of Foot Guards, eight Pages, a Number of Footmen, and several Sets of Horses. He gives a rich Livery, and in a word, his Houshold is spruce and magnificent. There are very few Sovereigns in Germany whose Table is better served; for there is plenty of every thing, particularly delicious Wines, of which they tipple to such Excess that in a very little time they are not capable of distinguishing their Liquor. There are, I believe, the hardest Drinkers here in Europe; and I being on the other hand but a Milksop, thought that Fulde was not a Country for me to pitch my Tent in. I dined with the Prince, went home drunk to my Quarters, slept sound, and next day
set out for Wurtzbourg, where I am happily arriv'd after having gone through such horrible bad Ways, and met with such dismal Lodging, that I wish my Enemies were but condemned to travel this Road four times a Year.
Here I make myself amends for the Mortification which I met with coming hither. Wurtzbourg is a considerable City though not very large. The Main divides it into two Parts. It is the Residence of the Prince Bishop of Wurtzbourg Duke of Franconia. The Person who now enjoys that great Dignity is Christopher-Francis de Houtten[80]. He was elected by the Chapter to succeed John Philip Francis Count de Schonborn, who was one of the greatest and most magnificent Prelates that perhaps ever fill'd the Episcopal See of Wurtzbourg. This Prince, in the five Years time that he has been Bishop, has done more things for the Embellishment of Wurtzbourg than ten of his Predecessors put together. He has furnished one Part of the Town with new Fortifications, and has laid the Basis of a stately Palace, which will be one of the greatest, the compleatest and most regular Fabrics that we have in Germany; he having for that end consulted the most skilful Architects, and sent for the most celebrated Sculptors from Italy. As he was a passionate Admirer of the Arts and Sciences, and perfectly understood them, especially Architecture; he chose the best Parts of all the Designs that were presented to him, and from them he compos'd the Plan of the Work, which was executed with such diligence that in four Years time two thirds of the Building were rooft. His unexpected Death put a stop for a while to this Great Work. The
present Bishop took it in hand again, but after having made considerable Alterations in those great and magnificent Projects, the Work advances so slowly that when it will be finished no body knows.
The deceased Bishop Schonborn has also caused a Chapel to be built near the Metropolitan Church, which he has lined with very uncommon Marble brought for the purpose from Italy at a very great Expence. Brass, Gilding, and every thing that can render a Chapel superb, has been employed in it in a very curious manner. This stately Edifice is as yet imperfect, and will require great Sums to finish it. As it was designed for the Burial-Place of the Bishop and his Family, it is to be presum'd that the House of Schonborn, now so rich and so powerful, will not suffer a Monument to lie unfinish'd which is to perpetuate the remembrance of its Grandeur.
The Great Hospital founded by a Bishop whose Name was Julius, is worth seeing. 'Tis a stately Building, which looks more like the Palace of a Prince than a Hospital. Four hundred Persons of both Sexes are maintained in it. There are two fine Halls which are particularly made use of upon Holy Thursday. In the one, the Bishop performs the Ceremony of washing the Feet of the Poor, who are afterwards sumptuously feasted in it; and in the other, he regales his Chapter, and all his Family.
The Castle stands upon an Eminence on the other side of the River which we pass over a Stone Bridge, adorn'd like that of St. Angelo at Rome, with twelve fine Statues representing so many Saints. This Castle is a strong Place, and entirely commands the Town. The Form of it is quite irregular, it consisting of several Buildings erected by several Bishops. Those Prelates always liv'd in it, till the last, who, while he was building a new Palace in the Town, lodged in a neighbouring Gentleman's
House, from whence he could see how the Work went on. The Apartments of the old Castle are spacious and noble. I found in them all that Furniture with which they were adorn'd for the Reception of the Archduchess Mary-Elizabeth, when that Princess came to Wurtzbourg in her way to the Government of the Netherlands. I have not seen richer Furniture at the Palace of any Prince of the Empire.
In this Castle there are two things that are well worth seeing; the Arsenal and the Vault; the one full of all the Stores invented by Mars and Bellona, for the Destruction of Mankind, and the other furnish'd with every thing to satiate the Thirst of an Army of Drunkards. If ever you come hither and should have the Curiosity to visit these Magazines of Mars and Bacchus, I advise you to begin with the Arsenal, especially if you can get some Courtier to go with you; for these Gentlemen, tho' very civil, think, that the least thing which a Foreigner ought to do for them is to forfeit his Reason to them in this Vault. I am sure, I speak by dear Experience. Three days ago I told the Bishop that I had a mind to see the Castle. This Prince was so complaisant as to order one of his Gentlemen to go with me. My honest Companion fearing, 'tis like, that a Conversation tete-a-tete would be too melancholy, chose two Topers to bear us Company, whom Silenus would not have disown'd for his Children. Being a stranger to the Virtues for which those Gentlemen were eminent, I put my self entirely under their Direction without the least Apprehension of my Misfortune. When they had shewed me the Apartments, the Arsenal, Fortifications, and every thing, they carried me at last into the Vault, which I found illuminated like a Chapel wherein I was to lie in State; and indeed, my Funeral Obsequies were perform'd in Pomp, for the Glasses served
instead of Bells, and Torrents of Wine gush'd out instead of Tears: At length, after the Service was over, two of the Prince's Heydukes carry'd me to a Coach, and from thence to Bed; that was my Tomb. Yesterday I rose again, but scarce know at this Moment whether I am quite come to myself. 'Tis true that this does not give me much Concern, for ever since I have been here, I have followed the laudable Custom of getting drunk twice a day. You perceive that I am improv'd by my Travels, and that I am apt enough to learn the pretty Manners of the Countries where I make any Stay. I fancy that you will find me very much alter'd for the better. There is nothing that accomplishes a Man so much as travelling; judge you of this by the Life which I lead here.
I rise at ten o'clock, my Lungs very much inflam'd with the Wine I drank the Night before: I take a large Dose of Tea, dress myself, and then go to make my Compliments to the Bishop. The Baron de Pechtelsheim the Marshal of the Court invites me to dine with the Prince: He promises, nay, and sometimes swears too that I shall not drink. At Noon we sit down to Table. The Bishop does me the honour to drink two or three Healths to me. The Baron de Zobel, Master of the Horse, and the Baron de Pechtelsheim, toast the same number to me, and I am under a necessity of drinking to no less than fourteen Persons at the Table; so that I am drown'd in Liquor before I have din'd. When the Company rises, I wait on the Prince to his Chamber-Door, where he retires, and I think to do the same, but I find an Embargo put upon me in the Antichamber by the Master of the Horse, and the Marshal of the Court, who with great Bumpers in their Hands drink the Prince's Health to me, and Prosperity for ever to the most laudable Chapter of Wurtzbourg. I protest to them that I am the
Bishop's most humble Servant, and that I have a very great Veneration for the most laudable Chapter, but that to drink their Healths wou'd destroy mine, and therefore I beg they wou'd excuse my pledging them; but I may as well talk to the Wind; these two Healths must be drank, or I shall be reckon'd no Friend to the Prince and his Chapter. If this were all my Task I shou'd be well off; but then comes M. de Zobel, one of the most intrepid Carousers of the Age, who squeezes me by the Hand, and with an Air and Tone of perfect Cordiality, says to me, You love our Prince so well that you can't refuse drinking to the Prosperity of the illustrious Family of Houtten. And when he has made this moving Speech, he takes off a great Glass to witness his Zeal for the Life of his Master; after which an officious Heyduke brings me a Glass, and being infected with the Goust that prevails at this Court, assures me that this Wine cannot possibly do me Harm, because 'tis the very same that the Prince drinks. By a Persuasion, founded on so just an Inference, I have the Courage to venture on t'other Glass, which is no sooner drank but I reel, and can drink no more; when in order to finish me M. de Pechtelsheim, one of the honestest Gentlemen living, but the staunchest Wine-bibber that I know, accosts me with a Smile and says, Come, dear Baron, one Glass more to better Acquaintance. I conjure him to give me Quarter, but he embraces me, kisses me, and calls me Herr Bruder, (his dear Brother.) How can a Man withstand such tender Compliments! At last I put myself in a fit Posture to run away; I sneak off, steal down the Steps as well as I can, and squeeze myself into a Sedan which carries me home; where my People drag me out like a dead Corpse, and fling me on a Bed, as if the next thing was to lay me out. I sleep three or four hours, awake in a perfect Maze, put myself
to rights again, and prepare to make Visits, or to receive them; but whichsoever I do, I presently find my self in such a pickle again, that I cannot walk alone. There's no such thing as Conversation here betwixt one Friend and another without the Bottle; so that I am tempted to think the Inhabitants of this City are descended from Silenus, and that the old Sot left them the Faculty of hard drinking for a Legacy, as St. Hubert bequeath'd to his Family the power of curing a Frenzy.
I din'd yesterday with the Reverend the Scots Benedictine Fryars, who gave me a hearty Welcome, and an excellent sort of Liquor call'd Stein Wein, or Stone-Wine, probably because it grows on a Rock; which is the only time that I have departed from the Regimen I keep to here, I mean that I was not drunk. The House of these Benedictines is one of the five Houses which form a sort of a Republic in their Order, and which, without depending on their General, chuse a President out of their number who has the direction of all their Affairs. These five Houses are in five different Towns, viz. at Vienna in Austria, at Ratisbon, Wurtzbourg, at Doway in Flanders, and at Dieulegarde, near Pont-a-Mousson in Lorrain.
These Benedictines put me in mind of the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits, who have a very fine House in this City: These are they who are Directors of the University, and instruct the Youth with a Zeal which cannot but confound their Enemies.
The Prince and Bishop lives in very great Splendor, and is one of the most powerful of our Spiritual Sovereigns. His Dominion includes seventy Bailywics, and his Country is the finest and fruitfullest in Germany. The only thing that is scarce here is Money, and this is owing to their want of Trade, and to the great number of Monks and
Priests who ingross all to themselves. The Bishop has 50000 Crowns a-year for his Privy-Purse. The Chamber is oblig'd to maintain him in every thing. It furnishes his Wardrobe, his Table, and pays his Houshold and his Troops, which actually consist of 3500 Men, who are commanded by General Eib, the Governour of Wurtzbourg. In time of War the Bishop has no less than 10000.
The Court is numerous, and I can assure you that upon Festival-Days 'tis very magnificent. On St. Quilian's Day, who is the Patron of Wurtzbourg and Franconia, the Bishop repairs with a great Train to the Metropolitan Church. Six of the Bishop's Coaches, drawn each by six Horses, begin the March, attended by twenty four Footmen and sixteen Pages; and above fourscore Gentlemen richly dress'd walk before the Bishop's Coach, guarded by two Files of Halbardiers. The Master of the Horse and the Marshal of the Court walk by the sides of the Coach, the latter bearing the Sword of the Duke of Franconia with the Point uppermost; and the Coach is surrounded by Heydukes, and followed by a company of Life-Guards.
The Bishop of Wurtzbourg has one Prerogative which the other Bishops have not; for while he officiates, his Great Marshal bears the Sword of the Duke of Franconia naked and upright till the Consecration of the Elements, and then he puts it up in the Scabbard, and carries it before the Prince with the Point downwards; which is a Distinction I take to be altogether as extraordinary as that of the Abbot and Count de Gemblours, the first Nobleman of the States of Brabant, who has the Privilege of celebrating Mass with his Boots and Spurs on.
The Bishop's ordinary Expence is perfectly suitable to the Dignity of a great Prince; and his
Table, which is commonly spread for eighteen Guests, is serv'd with a Magnificence to the degree of Profusion; not that this Prince affects Pomp, but because he is oblig'd to conform to the antient establish'd Customs of his Court. This Prelate gives very great Application to the Affairs of his Government, for which purpose he rises early in the Morning: When he is dress'd he spends some time in Prayer, and then confers with his Ministers, or with the Chiefs of the several Tribunals. At ten o'clock he hears Mass, and afterwards goes to Council: At Noon he dines, and after having sate an Hour and an half at Table, he retires, and spends the Evening with his Family, which is numerous, and compos'd of Persons of Worth. In Carnival-time he makes great Entertainments twice or thrice a week for all the Nobility of Wurtzbourg, and there is sometimes a Ball and even Masquerades at Court. In the Winter-time Persons of Rank have Assemblies for Gaming; and during the Carnival there's a Ball three times a week in a House kept by the Undertaker, at which they bespeak Places beforehand, and where Foreigners are admitted gratis. All this wou'd be pretty enough if the Company was not sometimes disturb'd by People in Liquor, tho' 'tis true that such are not very chagrining to the Natives, who are us'd to such Sights; and the very Ladies, who elsewhere fly such Company, do not seem to have a staunch Aversion to them. Foreigners have reason to applaud the Civilities both of the Prince and his Courtiers. As for my own part I am infinitely oblig'd for the Respect they have been pleas'd to shew to me. The Prince heaps his Favours on me, and the Nobility their Courtesies. If it were not that one is forc'd to drink hard, I shou'd like the Town very well. Two Days hence I shall set out for Anspach, and
from thence I shall go by the way of Nuremberg and Bareith to Prague. I shall write to you by the very first Opportunity: Mean time I am, &c.
