LETTER VII.
SIR,Gotha, Sept. 9, 1732.
I set out from Weimar at 5 o'clock in the Morning, and by eight was at Erfurt, where I walk'd about an Hour, and came at Noon to Gotha.
'Tis all a flat Country abounding with Corn. In time of Rain the Roads are so bad that sometimes it takes up a whole Day to come from Erfurt to Gotha. Erfurt is a City belonging to the Elector of Mentz, is the Capital of Thuringia, and may be rank'd among those of the second Class in Germany. Its Inhabitants are almost all Lutherans, yet the principal Churches belong to the Catholics. Erfurt is fortified with good Ramparts, and by a Castle on a Hill which absolutely commands the Town. There is always a good Garison in the Place, which consists of the Emperor's Soldiers and those of Mentz; and the Elector has a Governor here with the Title of Stadtholder, who presides in the Regency.
Gotha, which is not near so big as Erfurt, is a City situate in the middle of a fine fruitful Plain, so that which way soever one approaches it, one always perceives the Castle or Palace of the Duke, which stands on an Eminence by itself, and has a Prospect of a vast Extent of Country. This Castle, which is one of the biggest in Germany, was built by Ernest Duke of Gotha, surnamed the Pious; who
caused both that and the Town to be encompassed with Ditches and Ramparts. To the Glory of this Prince, he undertook and finished these Great Works, at a time when Germany was so impoverished by intestine Wars that few of its Princes were able to erect Palaces[73].
As of all the Saxon Princes of the Ernestine Branch, the Duke of Gotha is the most powerful, so his Court is of all the Saxon Courts next to that of Dresden, the most Numerous and the most Magnificent.
Nevertheless the Subjects of the Duke of Gotha[74] are the least burthen'd with Taxes of any in Germany. To this Prince's wise Management of his Finances is owing not only his own Happiness, but that of his People too, by whom he is ador'd; and really he treats them more like a Father, than a Sovereign; and never makes them sensible of his Power, but when he is to do them Justice. He is a kind good Master, easy of Access, temperate in his way of Living, gives very great Application to the Affairs of his Government, loves Reading, understands Books, and knows every thing which a Prince ought to be acquainted with. As to his Person, he is handsome and comely; is civil in his Deportment, but reserv'd; and therefore seldom speaks to Strangers, if he can help it; but endeavours first of all to know those he has Business with, and when he has found out their Character, talks with them upon such Subjects as he thinks they are best acquainted with. He keeps regular Hours, rises at seven o'clock, first spends an Hour in Prayer, and the reading of some pious Treatise; and then gets himself dress'd, and gives Audience to his Ministers, or to other Persons that desire it. At Noon he dines with the Duchess his Wife, the Princes his Children, and other Persons of Distinction; stays about an Hour and a half at Table, and then takes a Walk in the Gardens of the Palace, or if the Weather does not permit, he employs himself in his Closet, or spends the Time in reading till five o'clock. Then he goes to the House of some Person of Distinction at his Court where all the Nobility have an Assembly, and plays at Ombre, after which he returns to his Palace, sups in the manner that he din'd, and at nine o'clock retires.
There is a Drawing-Room at Court three times a Week when the Company meets in a great Hall,
where they make Parties at Ombre and Piquet. At seven o'clock a large Table is spread, which is free for all the Company. Then a Carver cuts up the Victuals, which are handed to that, and to all the Gaming-Tables that are cover'd with Napkins. Those who don't play may sit down at what Table they like best. The Duke, the Duchess, or the Princes, generally do Foreigners the Honour to admit them to their Table. During the Supper there is a Concert of Music, and at nine o'Clock all the Company retires.
The Duke by his Marriage with Magdalen-Augusta of Anhalt-Zerbst, has seven Sons and two Daughters[75]: The eldest is the Hereditary Prince, who has been twice in Paris, and once in Italy, England, Holland, Denmark, Sweden, and at all the Courts of Germany, in which Travels he has acquir'd a great deal of Politeness and valuable Knowledge. I had the Honour of making my Compliments to him both at Paris, and the Hague, and found him of such a Temper as induces me to think that the Subjects of Gotha will be as happy hereafter under his Government, as they are under that of the Duke his Father. He was lately married to his Cousin-German Louisa-Dorothea of Saxe-Meinungen, a very lovely young Princess, who, with all her Graces and Charms, has abundance of Good-nature and Modesty[76].
The Duke has all the Great Officers common to other Sovereigns. The Count de Ronaw is Great Marshal, and the chief Man at Court. They give him here the Character of Favourite; whether he is such I know not, but this I know, that he is not
unworthy of it. I was very well acquainted with him at Ratisbon in 1720; he was not then in any Place, and expressed a Friendship for me; and now that I see him here in a Post, I find him the same Man as at Ratisbon, always a Friend to his Friends; which for a Favourite is a very great Character.
The Duke's Revenues are computed at a Million of Crowns a year, with which he maintains near 3000 Men of regular Troops. His Family is large and his Livery fine; his Guards are very well cloath'd; his Table is serv'd with more Delicacy than Profusion; his Palace is well furnish'd; every body punctually paid; and no body dissatisfied.
I don't mention the Library to you, nor the Chamber of Rarities, because I am not yet well enough inform'd of such Things there as are worth observing. I propose to take another Round before I go hence, and shall not fail to transmit to you what Observations I shall make there. Mean time, I am, &c.[77]
