LETTER VI.
SIR,Weimar, Sept. 5, 1729.
Before I write you an account of what became of me when I left Dresden, I shall endeavour to give you the Intelligence you desire concerning the late Count de Flemming, Prime Minister and Velt-Marshal of Saxony. That Nobleman was of a good Extraction, being descended of a Family which pretends to derive its Origin from that of Flemming, which has been of considerable Rank for a long time in Scotland, Sweden, Germany, and Poland. My Lord Wigtoun is the Chief of that Family in Scotland.
James-Henry Count de Flemming, whose Pourtraiture and Character you desire of me, was born the 8th of March 1667. His Father was President of the Regency of Stargard, the Capital of Prussian Pomerania, who had three Sons, of whom this Count was the second. He had an Education suitable to his Birth. He study'd first at Francfort upon the Oder, and afterwards at Utrecht under the celebrated Grevius, where he learnt Latin to such a degree that he always spoke it with very great Eloquence. After he had finish'd his Studies he enter'd into the Service of Brandenbourg, where the Baron de Span, his Uncle by the Mother's side, was Velt-Marshal. His first Preferment was to a Pair of Colours; but in a little time he had a Company given him, which he commanded at the Battle of Orbassan in Piedmont. In 1694, he enter'd as a
Lieutenant-Colonel into the Service of John-George IV. Elector of Saxony; upon whose Death, and the Succession of Frederic-Augustus, Flemming obtain'd a Regiment, and accompany'd the new Elector into Hungary, where he commanded the Emperor's Army against the Infidels during the Campaigns of 1695, and 1696. There it was that Flemming kill'd in a Duel the Baron de Lovel, who was Lieutenant-Colonel in the Service of Saxony. In 1697, he was sent into Poland, where, by the Interest of his Cousin-german, the Daughter of Velt-Marshal Span of Berlin, Wife of M. Brebentau Palatine of Marienbourg, who died Great Treasurer of Poland, and by the Credit of Benedict Sapieha he had the Happiness of getting his Master chose King of Poland. This Negotiation obtain'd him the Post of Major-General, and laid the Foundation of his Fortune. In 1700, he was made a Lieutenant-General, and in that Quality laid siege to Riga, which the King of Sweden oblig'd him to raise. In 1702, he marry'd Sapieha, a Daughter of one of the chief Noblemen of Lithuania. He was wounded the same Year at the Battle of Clischhoff, at which time the King of Sweden being every where victorious, demanded that the King of Poland shou'd deliver up Flemming to him. But upon this he retir'd to Brandenbourg, till King Stanislaus had made Charles XII. easy. Flemming being return'd to Saxony, fought a Duel with M. de Schulembourg, who giving him a Fall, insisted that he should beg his Life; but Flemming got out of this ugly Scrape by a scurvy Joke, and Schulembourg gave him his Life. The latter was a younger Lieutenant-General than Flemming, but in every respect his Rival, and wou'd have been a Marshal if his Fortune had been as good as his Valour. At the Battle of Frauenstad in 1705, where he was defeated by the Swedes, Schulembourg quitted
the Service of Saxony and went into that of Venice. By this means Flemming, who had now no Rival left, was made a Marshal, and happen'd to be at Dresden when the King of Sweden made that strange Visit to the King of Poland; at which time, if Augustus had been as ungenerous as Flemming, Charles wou'd have been detain'd. Many People accuse Flemming of having persuaded the King his Master to deliver up Patkul: This I can't pretend to affirm, but that there was a mortal Antipathy betwixt him and the Minister of Russia is certain; for the latter having presented a Memorial to the King of Poland, setting forth the wretched condition of the Muscovite Troops in the Pay of Saxony, concluded it with these Latin Words,
Dixi, et Salvavi Animam.
Which Memorial, when Flemming had read, and found himself not very well used in it, he took a Pen and underwrote these Words,
Maledixisti, et Damnaberis.
After the Disaster which Charles XII. met with near Pultowa, Flemming contributed very much to the Re-establishment of King Augustus in Poland. He confirm'd the Alliance betwixt his Master and the Czar, made Peace with the Confederates, and concluded another Alliance with Denmark. The Czar and the King of Denmark honour'd him with their Orders of Knighthood, and he had that of Poland before. He went Ambassador to the unsuccessful Congress at Brunswic, and was afterwards at Hanover to attend George I. King of Great Britain. When the King of Sweden return'd to Pomerania, Flemming left no Stone unturn'd to draw the King of Prussia into his Master's Alliance. He had some Years before procur'd him the Sequestration of the Town of Stetin, and 'twas lucky enough
for him that the Pride and Obstinacy of the King of Sweden obliged the King of Prussia to declare himself his Enemy. At that time Flemming was rather a Courier between Dresden, Berlin, and Warsaw, than an Ambassador and Prime Minister, which Dignity he enjoy'd after the Death of the Prince de Furstemberg his Predecessor. When the Peace of the North was settled, Flemming went Ambassador to Vienna, where he concluded the Marriage of the Electoral Prince of Saxony with the Archduchess, eldest Daughter to the Emperor Joseph, tho' the Contract had been settled before by the Count de Wackerbarth, who it may be said had the Pains to negotiate it, and Flemming the Glory of finishing it.
At this time Count Flemming had resign'd all the Salaries of his Employments in Saxony, and only reserv'd to himself the private Perquisites and the Franchise of the Post-Offices; and his Journeys, which were very frequent, were all at the Expence of the King. It was about this time that he caus'd his Marriage with Sapieha to be dissolv'd, and marry'd one Radzevil, by whom he had a Son, who was but a Year and a half old when the Count died at Vienna, to which place he was return'd with the Character of Ambassador. He left all his Estate to this Child, without making any Intail on his Family; so that when this Son died, who did not long survive him, his Estate went to Madame de Flemming, who by marrying again carry'd the Bulk of it into another Family. They say that his Inheritance was worth sixteen Millions of Crowns, exclusive of what he had expended during the Splendor of his Fortune, which lasted thirty Years, or thereabouts. Whether Richelieu and Mazarine got greater Estates, I cannot say; but in Germany there is not an Instance of one sooner acquir'd, more resplendent, and better supported than his was. He was Prime Minister, Velt-Marshal of
Saxony, and Master of the Horse of Lithuania; by which Offices he gain'd immense Sums. He made considerable Purchases in Silesia and Poland, but very little in Saxony. Whether he left any thing to the King is not said; tho' he ought really to have made him some Restitution, and he might naturally have given up with a good Grace what he cou'd not but foresee wou'd be taken by force from his Heir. As it was just that his Succession shou'd pass thro' the Purgatory of a Chambre Ardente, the King establish'd one, which 'tis said has adjudg'd eight Millions to his Majesty, and the same to his Widow; which is a very fair Dividend.
Count Flemming was taller than ordinary, but a handsome Man; he had very regular Features, a lively Eye, a disdainful Sneer, a haughty Air, and he was really proud, and beyond measure ambitious. He was generous to a degree of Ostentation, and always aim'd to do something to be talk'd of. He was vigilant, laborious, indefatigable, allow'd himself little Sleep; and whenever he took a Debauch, a Nap of two Hours set him to rights again. It was no more for him to go from a Debauch to Business, than from Business to a Debauch; and he never fatigu'd himself, but dispatch'd the greatest Affairs with so much Ease as if they were only a Diversion. He lov'd to banter, but did not always make use of the Terms suitable to his Character; and Persons who did not dare to answer him again, were commonly the Butts of his Raillery. He was polite when he had a mind to it, but in the general Course of his Behaviour he carry'd an Air fitter for a Captain of Dragoons than for a Marshal and a Prime Minister. He never did a thing for any body without some View; he scrupl'd neither Cunning nor even Perjury, and provided he could gain his Ends, all ways were alike fair to him. All his Life-time he took care to do his own Business
first, and then his Master's the King's; and I question whether I do him any Injustice if I say that he was the King of Prussia's Minister, much more than the King of Poland's.
This, Sir, is all that I have to say to you concerning Count Flemming. I have told you very nakedly what I always thought of him, and I don't believe that I have mistaken his Character. Be this as it will, my Decision is of too little weight to do either Good or Harm; the Publick will always judge of him according to their best Information. I proceed now with the Narrative of my Travels.
After I had set out from Dresden I went to Altenbourg in hopes of finding the Court of Gotha there, which I had been told, intended to spend the Remainder of the fine Season there; but it was set out the Night before for Gotha, where I hope to see it to-morrow.
The City of Altenbourg is the Capital of a County of that Name, of which the Duke of Saxe-Gotha is the Sovereign. This Prince has a Palace there which makes a handsome appearance, but I shall say nothing more of it because I neglected to go and see it. The Peasants of the County of Altenbourg are the richest in Germany, and may almost vye with those of Holland. I have been assur'd that some of them have given 20 or 30000 Crowns in Marriage with their Daughters; and like the Dutch Peasants, they take care to match them to none but the Sons of substantial Farmers.
As I left Altenbourg I came upon a fine Causey with a Row of Trees on each side, which brought me to the Frontiers of the County. I afterwards fell into very bad Roads all the way to Leipsic, where I stay'd but a very few Hours, and proceeded the same day to Mersebourg. This City was much more considerable formerly than now. It was the
See of a Bishop, but was seculariz'd by the Treaty of Passaw in favour of the House of Saxony. Its Situation is charming, with Gardens and Meadows all round it, and its Walls are wash'd by the River Sala. The great Church which was formerly a Cathedral is a Gothic Building, where there is a stately Tomb of the Emperor Rodolph of Schwartzbourg, who died after he had lost one Hand in a Battle he fought with the Emperor Henry IV. with whom he was Competitor. This Prince a few Moments before he expir'd, took up his Hand that was cut off, and holding it up to those who were about him, said to them, Behold this Hand; 'tis the same that I lifted up when I promis'd Faith and Allegiance to my Emperor and Lord; but by your Advice and Instigation I have not kept my Promise to him, for which you will one day give an account to God. Some time after this unfortunate Prince's Death, the Emperor Henry IV. coming to Mersebourg and taking a view of Rodolphus's Tomb, of which he admir'd the Magnificence, certain Flatterers told him that the Tomb ought to be destroy'd as too pompous for a Rebel; but the Emperor scorning such a pitiful Revenge, made answer, Wou'd to God that all my Enemies were thus pompously interr'd.
The City of Mersebourg is the Residence of a Duke of the House of Saxony, who is Sovereign of all the Country that formerly constituted the Bishoprick, which enables him to keep a splendid Court[71]. The next day after my Arrival I had the Honour to pay him my Compliments, and had a very satisfactory Reception. The Prince conducted me into a Hall which was hung with Bass-Viols from the Bottom to the Top, in the same manner as an Arsenal is with Helmets and Breast-Plates. In the middle of the Hall there was a Viol which was
distinguish'd from the rest. It reach'd up to the very Cieling, and there was a Ladder set, which such as had the Curiosity to take a particular View of it were oblig'd to ascend, for surely it was the most stately Instrument of the kind that ever was made. The Duke made me take particular notice of it, and was pleas'd with the Admiration which I express'd of it. He regal'd me also with some Airs upon another Bass-Viol which he call'd his Favorite, and which was but one fourth part as big as the other.
After this Concert I din'd with the Duke and Duchess. This Princess is the Daughter of the late Prince of Nassau-Idstein, than whom there cannot be a more amiable Lady. She has an Air of Mildness, Goodness and Prudence diffused over all her Features; and her Wit is of the same Stamp as her Beauty, amiable without Parade and Ostentation. Some of her Courtiers assur'd me, that her Mind is as charming as her Person. If that be true, which I am loth to doubt of, this Princess deserves a more splendid Fortune than what she enjoys.
After Dinner, I was one at a Match of Quadrille with the Duchess, and at night there was dancing, and I never saw any body dance with a better Grace than this Princess. The Ball held till the Night was far advanced, when there was a grand Supper, which was no sooner over than I took leave of the Duke and Duchess and retir'd to my Quarters, with a design to set out in a few Hours and proceed in my Journey. At my Lodging I found a Gentleman from the Duke, who said to me, 'That as he was passing by he saw my Men packing up my things, and that therefore he came in purely to wish me a good Journey. He assured me that he had a secret Kindness for me; that I might safely take his Word; that he was Sincerity it self; and that he wish'd 500000 Devils might twist his Neck if he was not heartily my Friend:
And to give you proofs of it, said he, I will treat you with some Trifle, such as a Dram of Anniseed, Orange-Water, or Ratasia. Upon my word my Apothecary has what is choice good; he lives but at the end of the Street; Come, I will shew you the way to his House.'
While he harangu'd me in this manner he reel'd, being so drunk that he cou'd not stand. I thank'd him therefore for his Love, and told him that I did not drink Drams, but that if he had a mind to any Liquor of that sort, I would send for some for him; and I bid my Landlord fetch it. The Apothecary, as ill luck would have it, was not yet got up. 'Soho, here, said my new Friend, there is nothing to drink but Aquavitæ; here, Landlord, a Glass of Brandy, Pipes and Tobacco. You must have something, said he, to be doing.' Every thing he call'd for being brought, my Gentleman drank two or three Glasses of Brandy, and smoak'd as many Pipes of Tobacco. I hoped to see him tumble down, and by consequence to get rid of him, when he took it into his head to call for some Dishes of Tea that I had order'd to be made for my self, and which made him so sober that he recover'd his Reason. I laid hold of this happy Interval (for I heard him calling out for Brandy, which I apprehended would occasion a Relapse) and talk'd to him about his Master's Bass-Viols; upon which, without much Intreaty, he said to me, 'You know, Sir, that every Man almost has his particular Whim, Princes as well as private Persons. One is an Admirer of Magnificence, another of Troops, and a third of Mistresses. As for my august Master, his Fancy runs only on Bass-Viols, and whoever sollicits him for an Employment or any other Favour, can't do better than to accommodate his Arsenal with one of these Instruments. That very large one, said he, which you saw in the Room where all his Viols are, was
presented to him by one who wanted to be a Privy-Counsellor; his Petition was granted, and had he ask'd for any thing else he might have had it.' This officious Gentleman told me a great many other Particulars which let me into the very Chronicle of the Court of Mersebourg; but I don't trouble you with it, because the Truth is not to be told at all times.
My Equipage being ready, I set out for Naumbourg, where I arrived at Noon. This City was formerly the See of a Bishop. Its ancient Cathedral is still standing, and tho' Lutheran, has a Chapter and Canons who must prove their Nobility both by the Father's side and Mother's side, by sixteen Descents. When this Bishoprick was seculariz'd it was said that no Catholic Prince could ever be possess'd of this State. Therefore when the last Duke of Saxe-Zeits, Administrator of Naumbourg, turn'd Catholic, the King of Poland as eldest of the Saxon Family and Executor of the Pacta or Conventions made between the Princes of that Family, took possession of Naumbourg. The Duke's being reconciled to the Lutheran Communion was to no purpose, the King did not restore his Dominions to him, but still possesses them, tho' he is more a Catholic than the Duke of Zeits perhaps ever was. You know that this Prince has left a Nephew who wou'd have been his Heir, if he had not been a Catholic and a Priest. This is the Prince who, I acquainted you from Dresden, was Bishop of Konigsgratz in Bohemia. He was born a Lutheran, as are all those of his Family. His Uncle the Cardinal of Saxe, Brother to the Duke of Zeits, made him embrace the Roman Catholic Religion when he was very young, and afterwards persuaded him to enter into Ecclesiastical Orders, by which step he deprived his Nephew of the glorious Prerogative of being a Sovereign Prince, and transferred his
Rights to the King of Poland his distant Cousin.
Naumbourg is famous for its Fairs, which next to those of Leipsic, are the most considerable in Saxony. The Suburbs of this City are almost all Vineyards; but why, I know not, for the Wine is so detestably bad, that they give it away in a manner for nothing.
Finding nothing at Naumbourg which was worth my while to stay there for, I only chang'd Horses and came hither. As one approaches this Place, we meet with Corn-Fields and Hop-Grounds instead of Vines, and the Country rises into Hills, so that one does not see the Town of Weimar till we are just upon it. The City, which is not more considerable than Naumbourg, is the Residence of the Duke of Saxe-Weimar, who has a Palace here which does not want for Magnificence, and tho' unfinish'd, has an air of Grandeur. The Connoisseurs in Architecture highly extol the grand Stair-Case there, which two Persons may ascend and descend at the same time without meeting one another, and yet always keeping each other in view. It consists of two Flights of Stairs upon one Spindle, laid one over the other in the same Well of a square Form. The Curious who have observ'd it, admire it, because there are few such to be seen.
The great Hall which is an oval, is beautiful, but not lightsome enough. There are the Pictures of all the Dukes of Saxe-Weimar at full length, from the first Duke that ever was down to the Father of the present. They are all drawn on Horseback, and done by no mean Hand.
In the same Palace is the Duke's Library, which tho' not very large, consists of sundry scarce Books. 'Tis open twice a week, when the Curious are not only permitted to peruse them, but even to borrow them, upon leaving a Note with the Librarian.
The Duke of Weimar spends very little Time in his Capital, but commonly resides at a Seat which he has caus'd to be built about a League out of Town. He has given it the Name of Belle-Vue, because of the fine Prospect which it commands from the Apartments of the first Story. The House is small and not very commodious, so that the chief Beauty of it is its Situation, which is very charming. The Gardens which are begun upon very good Plans will be beautiful when finish'd, as well as the Pheasant-Walk and Menagerie where there are Turkeys and all sorts of Fowl.
The Duke of Weimar's Name is Ernest-Augustus: He is the eldest of the Ernestine Branch which lost the Electorate when Charles V. was Emperor. He marry'd a Princess of Anhalt-Cothen, who I have been told, was a Lady of distinguish'd Merit. She died and left him a Son and three Daughters.
The young Prince is about ten Years of age[72]. He can neither hear nor pronounce well, and is withal of a very tender Constitution. The Physicians say it signifies nothing, and that as he grows up he will acquire a Freedom of Speech. But I question it, and am apt to think rather that those Disciples of Æsculapius will send him into the other World. The only Hopes of any Male Issue of Weimar are founded upon this Child. The Duke of Saxe-Eysenach who is the next a-kin has no Children; so that the Dominions of Weimar and Eysenach too are ready to devolve to the Family of Saxe-Gotha. The Duke of Weimar's Subjects teaze him very much to marry, but the Prince does not seem to be in a Humour to satisfy them; for I have often heard him say that he can't bear the mention of Marriage.
No body presumes to go to Belle-Vue without being sent for, except only on Mondays when poor People are permitted to go thither with their Petitions which they deliver to the Secretary, and he gives them to the Duke. Persons of Quality, whether Foreigners or others, that have a mind to speak with the Duke, apply for it to the Marshal of the Court, but are seldom admitted to an Audience.
The Duke has rarely any other Company at Belle-Vue but two young Ladies whom he calls his Maids of Honour, and three young Women, Citizens Daughters, who go by the Name of his Chamber-Maids; a Major of his Troops, and the Officer of his Guard, who is a Lieutenant or an Ensign. I had forgot to mention the Baron de Bruhl, who is the Duke's Favourite and his Master of the Horse.
'Tis with these Persons that the Prince passes his Time. He wakes early in the Morning, but makes it late before he rises; for he takes his Tea in Bed, and sometimes plays on the Violin. At other times he sends for his Architects and Gardeners, with whom he amuses himself in drawing of Plans. His Ministers also come to him while he is in Bed to talk upon Business. About Noon he gets up, and as soon as he is dress'd, sees his Guard mount, which consists of 33 Men, commanded by a Lieutenant or an Ensign. He exercises his Soldiers himself, and corrects them too when they commit any Fault. This done he takes the Air, and at two or three o'clock sits down to Table, where the two Maids of Honour, the Master of the Horse, the Major, the Officer of the Guard, and even Foreigners if any happen to be there, are of the Company. The Dinner holds a long while, and 'tis sometimes three, four, and five Hours before they rise from Table. The Glass never stands still hardly, and the Duke talks a great deal, but the Conversation is commonly on Subjects that are not very agreeable. When Dinner is over they drink
Coffee, after which the Duke retires for a few Minutes, and then plays at Quadrille with his two young Ladies and the Major; but sometimes he does nothing but smoak Tobacco, and he often retires to his Chamber where he amuses himself with Drawing or else playing on the Violin till he goes to Bed.
There scarce a Week passes but the Duke gives an Invitation at least once or twice to all the Persons of Quality of the Court, and all the Officers of his Troops, at which time there are two great Tables spread, where they dine, play, sup, and afterwards dance till next Day.
The Duke's Troops consist of a Battalion of 700 Men, a Squadron of 180 Troopers, and a Company of Cadets on horseback. His Infantry consists of pick'd Men. Since the famous Bernard de Weimar who was Pensioner to Lewis XIII. King of France, no Duke of Weimar had so many Troops, and really they must be chargeable to the Duke whose Revenues 'tis said don't exceed 400000 Crowns. This Prince has made a Treaty with the King of Poland, whereby he engages to assist the King with his Battalion whenever his Majesty thinks it necessary for his Service; in which Case the King promises to give that Battalion the same Pay as he does his own Troops. Mean time the Duke is obliged to clothe them all according to the Pattern which is sent to him from Dresden; and indeed their Clothes are very rich, especially those of the Officers and Cadets, which are so bedaub'd with Gold and Silver Lace, that a Foreigner who comes to Weimar cannot but admire it.
The Duke's Family is very numerous, for besides the Prince his Son and the three Princesses his Daughters, he has a Sister, and a Mother-in-law, who is a Princess of Hesse-Hombourg: Mean time he
has a numerous Court, and may boast that some of them are Persons of very great Merit.
The Gentleman who is at the Head of Affairs is the Baron de Reinbabe, who has the Title of President of the Council of State. He is a Person of a good Family, in Silesia, has very great Abilities, and withal so much Good-nature and Modesty as are seldom to be met with. When he was young he travell'd very much abroad, where he learnt what was valuable in every Country that he came to. He speaks several Languages well, is a great Historian, a learned Civilian, and a good Poet. Notwithstanding the Business that goes thro' his Hands, and his Care of a numerous Family, he is always almost at his Studies, and never better pleas'd than when he is in his Library; yet he is no Enemy to Pleasures, but enjoys them without abandoning himself to them, and takes them as they fall in his way without pursuing 'em. To finish his Character I will add what was said of him by a Prince who knew him intimately: If Probity was intirely lost in the rest of Mankind, said he to me, I think I shou'd be sure to find it again in the Baron de Reinbabe.
The Baron de Schmiedel is Marshal of the Court and Director of the military Chest. He is a Person of great Piety, whose Aspect is not indeed the most engaging, yet a very good Man to have to do with. He is a sincere Friend, loves to do a kind Thing, is exact in the Duties of his Offices, an Enemy to Vice, and very much attach'd to the Interests of his Master, tho' he does not always please him because he has not the Talent of Dissimulation so necessary at Courts.
The Baron de Studenitz a Silesian is a Privy-Counsellor, and President of the Chamber. He was formerly in the Service of the Duke of Saxe-Barbi, and afterwards he enter'd into that of the Duke of Saxe-Hilburgshausen, whose Finances he
directed for several Years, in which he acquired a Reputation, and came to Weimar where he was continued in the same Employment. He is a Gentleman of very great Learning and Integrity, and having travell'd a long time in his Youth, very well knows how to carry himself.
M. de Hering is of a noble Family in the Country of Anhalt-Cothen. He is the Duke's Aulic Counsellor, a Gentleman of Worth, and both Learned and Polite. He is on the point of leaving this Court, which will be a Loss to the Duke that he will not easily repair.
M. de Bruhl the Duke's Master of the Horse and Favourite, is a Saxon. His Birth, good Qualities, and especially his sweet Temper render him very worthy of a Sovereign's Favour. Yet I doubt whether, notwithstanding so much Merit, he has a firm Footing in the Duke's Friendship; he has too much Candor, too much Sincerity, and is too zealous to do Services; and perhaps also too much attach'd to the Interests and Honour of his Master: for tho' these Qualities have the Appearance of Virtues, yet they are sometimes Errors in the Eyes of Princes.
Thus, Sir, have I given you the Names of the most distinguish'd Persons at the Court of Weimar. I set out to-morrow for Gotha. I hope for a Line from you at Wurtzbourg, and don't propose to write again to you till I know whether you are living or dead.
I am, &c.
