LETTER XIII.
SIR,Vienna, Decem. 10, 1729.
There are some other Articles which I cannot but add to those I have already given you from Vienna. The Police of this City is administer'd by a Stadtholder. The Person that now fills that Post is the Count de Kehvenhuller; who is also a Minister of State, and Knight of the Golden Fleece. His Functions are the same with those of the Lieutenant of the Police at Paris, and nothing makes the Difference but the Title; only it must be observ'd that the Stadtholder is always a Person of noble Extraction, and a Gentleman of the Army, whereas the Lieutenant of the Police at Paris is often of mean Extraction, but always a Gentleman of the long Robe.
The Governour of Vienna had seldom any other Title than Colonel of the City. The present Governour is the Marshal Count de Daun, the same that defended Turin, who was six Years Viceroy of Naples, six Months Governour of the Netherlands, and afterwards four Years Governour of Milan[109]. His Lieutenant-Colonel, who is the Count Maximilian de Staremberg, Lieutenant-General of the Emperor's Forces, and Colonel of a Regiment of Foot, commands in his absence, and has the Direction
of the Fortifications, the Arsenal, and the Garison. This Garison consists of a Regiment of Foot, compos'd of veteran Soldiers, or the Burghers and Artificers of Vienna, from whence this Regiment never stirs. The Employments in this Corps are very lucrative; but as they don't lie in the Road to the Temple of Honour, they are not much solicited by Persons of any considerable Extraction. Yet this Regiment, as little esteem'd as it is, perform'd very good Services during the Siege of Vienna by Kara Mustapha, Grand Vizier to Mahomet IV. It acted then under Ernest-Rudiger Count de Staremberg, who was Commandant in the City; and both the General and his Garison acquir'd very great Glory by the Resistance which they made. But perhaps with all their Bravery they cou'd not have prevented the Place from being taken, had it not been for the Avarice of the Grand Vizier, who hoped to be Master himself of the vast Treasures that he knew were in the City, and was therefore against storming the Town, for fear lest if it were carry'd by that means, the Soldiers would have shar'd the Plunder.
The Siege of Vienna being foreign to my purpose, I shall say nothing of it. You know that it was raised by the Assistance that was brought to it by the brave John Sobieski King of Poland; who defeated the Turks on the 12th of September, 1683, and return'd home laden with Glory and Booty, having made himself Master of all the Grand Vizier's Equipage. Upon this occasion he said a pleasant thing in a Letter which he wrote to the Queen his Wife, who had not a very implicit Faith in the Maxims of Seneca on the Contempt of Riches; 'You shan't say when I come home, as the Tartary Women do to their Husbands when they return from the Army without Booty, You are not a Man for me, because you come empty-handed; for the
Grand Vizier has made me sole Heir of all he had.'
You need not be told that this was the second time the Turks were forc'd to raise the Siege of Vienna; for Soliman the Sultan besieg'd it in the Reign of Charles V. but with no better Success than Kara Mustapha. 'Tis true that the Disappointment he met with was not so fatal in its Consequence to the Sultan as the other was to the Vizier of Mahomet IV. who was strangled at Belgrade when Mahomet was there: And the Head of this Minister is still to be seen in the Arsenal at Vienna. The Translation of this Turkish Relique hither from Belgrade was pretty extraordinary. Some Years after Kara Mustapha had been strangled, when the Germans took Belgrade, the Soldiers being inform'd where the Grand Vizier was buried, open'd his Tomb in hopes of Treasure, but found nothing except the Body in its Shirt, on which there were several Arabic Characters, and an Alcoran. The Governour being told of it, remember'd that this very Grand Vizier, when he laid Siege to Raab, which he was oblig'd to raise, said, That if he took the Town he wou'd have the Head of its Bishop cut off, who was then the Count Leopold de Collonitz, and send it to the Sultan, to be reveng'd of that Prelate for taking Money out of the Convents, and encouraging the Garison therewith to make a vigorous Resistance. The Governour of Belgrade remembring, I say, the Menaces of the Grand Vizier, thought it wou'd be a very agreeable Present to the Count de Collonitz, now a Cardinal[110], to send him the Vizier's Head and Body too, together with the Shirt and Alcoran; and he put up the whole very neatly in a Crystal Shrine, adorn'd with Silver Plates, and sent it accordingly to his Eminence; who not thinking this odd Present a proper Relique to be deposited in his Chapel, gave it to the Arsenal here at
Vienna, where I have both seen the Mussulman and felt him. I wou'd fain have pluck'd some of the Hairs of his Mustachio, but the Guardian of the precious Treasure watch'd my Fingers too narrowly. They say that a piece of the Halter by which a Man hangs himself is lucky, and why mayn't there be the same Virtue in the Mustachio of the Grand Vizier? Be it so or not, 'twill always deserve an honourable Station in some Cabinet of Rarities.
Since the Siege of Vienna this City is much inlarg'd. Its Fortifications are so augmented too that if the Turks should ever be prompted by their ill Fate to besiege it again, they wou'd find a stouter Resistance, and a greater number of their Mustachios sindged than they imagine.
The Emperor has lately given new Lustre to his Capital, by prevailing with Pope Benedict XIII. to erect it into an Archbishopric. Several Bishops, particularly the Archbishop of Passaw, have dismember'd their Dioceses to aggrandise its Jurisdiction. The Cardinal de Collonitz is the Person who at present enjoys this Dignity, which gives him the Character and Rank of a Prince.
The Roman Catholic is the only Religion exercis'd in Vienna, and in all Austria; but the Ministers of the Protestant Crown'd Heads have the Liberty here, as well as elsewhere, of keeping a Chapel. When the holy Sacrament or the Viaticum is carried to any sick Person, 'tis always attended by Guards who oblige all People that meet it to kneel. I have seen the Emperor, when the Viaticum was passing by, alight out of his Coach and accompany it to Church. This Prince, and indeed all those of his Family, always paid a very great Devotion to the holy Sacrament of the Altar. Of this Philip IV. King of Spain gave a very edifying Proof; for this Monarch going the very day that the King his Father died, from the Palace of Madrid to the Monastery of St. Jeronimo del Passo in a close Coach, that he might
be incog. alighted out of it to accompany the Viaticum which they were carrying to a sick Man; whereupon the Condé Duke d'Olivarez told him, That the King his Father was so lately dead that he ought not to have been seen in public. My Lord, said the King, this Custom cannot excuse me from paying that Worship to God which I owe him.
It may be said of the august House of Austria, That as few Princes equal them in Piety, so there are few that equal them in Birth. There may be Families that have been longer grac'd with the Diadem; but of these there are very few that have such great Alliances. There is no King, and not many Sovereign Princes but what are related to them; and there are very few Kingdoms to which the House of Austria has not given Queens. 'Tis now 300 Years that it has been Mistress of the Empire; and since Albert II. it has given thirteen Emperors to Europe successively. One of the Princesses of Austria had so many great Relations that I cannot help mentioning her. This was the Empress Mary, Wife to the Emperor Maximilian, Son to Ferdinand I. This Princess was Sister to Philip II. King of Spain, and the Daughter, the Wife, the Daughter-in-law, and the Mother of five Emperors; the Grand-daughter, the Daughter, the Sister, and the Aunt of four Kings of Spain; and the Mother-in-law of two Kings, viz. Charles IX. King of France, and Philip II. King of Spain. A modern Author says, that the Origin and Kindred of this Princess infinitely surpassed those of Agrippina, who, according to the Report of Tacitus, was the Daughter of Germanicus, the Sister of Caligula, the Wife of Claudius, and the Mother of Nero. But when I consider how perfect a Master you are, both of History and Genealogy, I ought to beg your pardon for my Impertinence in troubling you with these Instances.
What remains for me now, is to communicate some Remarks to you which I have made upon the Austrians in general. I shall begin with the Women, whom I shall paint to you, as Burrhus says, with the Freedom of a Soldier, who is not the best Limner.
The Women here, as in all other Countries, are either handsome or ugly. In general they are rather handsome than pretty, for they are dull Beauties. They are all tall and well shap'd; they walk well, but when they curt'sy, do it in such an aukward manner, that one would think their Backs were in danger of breaking. In their Dress they affect Finery rather than a good Fancy. Two or three excepted, there's none that lay on the Red, much less the White, and Patches are very little worn; in a word, they have nothing about them that denotes Coquettry. As to their Humour, they are reckon'd frank, tho' not easily made familiar; they are naturally vain, and like all our German Women, pretty reserv'd, and not so fond of Gallantry as they are of Gaming, Luxury, and Magnificence. Such is their Indolence that they concern themselves no more about their Houshold Affairs than if they were Strangers. They know no Books but their Prayer-Books, are extremely credulous, and give into all the Externals of Religion: This makes their Conversation sometimes insipid; and unless now and then a Love-Story falls in, Rain and Fair-Weather are their general Topics. They have at least as great a Conceit of Vienna as the Parisians have of Paris; for out of Vienna they think there's no Salvation. But all these little Defects are repair'd by an uncommon Greatness of Soul, and Generosity. They are hearty Friends, and warm Protectors of those whose Interests they espouse. When they are in love, their Passion is sincere; and instead of ruining their Lovers, there are some who have
made the Fortunes of those to whom they have taken a Fancy. Upon this Head I have been told, that in the Reign of the Emperor Joseph, when Gallantry was more in vogue than 'tis now, there was a Lady, who being in love with a Gentleman, and having a mind to make his Fortune without the Censure of the Public, thought fit in an Assembly where her Spark cut at Basset, to punt against him. She set a Bett, without telling a Soul how much she stak'd. Her Husband coming into the Room where they were at play, she rose up, took the Marks that were against her, threw them on the Ground, and said to the Banker, loud enough to be heard by her Husband, I owe you, Sir, 40000 Florins. The Husband in a very great Surprize ask'd what was the matter? I have been such a Fool, said she, pointing to the Banker, as to lose 40000 Florins to Monsieur N——. You have reason to chide me; but however my Debt must be paid. The Husband indeed grumbled very much, and said he wou'd not pay. What! reply'd the Wife, won't you pay the Gentleman? It shall fare the worse with you if you don't, for I am resolv'd to pay him in some Coin or other. The Husband perceiving his Wife so resolute, and that if he did not deposite the Money it wou'd subject him to the Loss of what was more precious, chose rather to part with the Cash; and indeed he had no reason to repent of it, for the Lady's Heart was so won by it, that she renounc'd the Sight of her Lover from that Moment, and made a very sober Wife.
This, Sir, is all I have to give you concerning the Temper of the Women. Let me tell you also how they spend their Time. They rise late. As soon almost as their Eyes are open, they call for Chocolate, and send to their Husbands to know who they have invited to Dinner, and whether there is room for any more Guests. If the Lady does
not like the Company, she sends notice to some Lady of her Acquaintance that she intends to dine with her; but if there be room at home, as a polite Husband always takes care to leave some at the Disposal of his Wife, she sends an Invitation to whom she pleases. After this she dresses and goes to Mass; for here the Ladies are all so devout that there's none but what hears at least one Mass in a day. There they read in five or six different Prayer-Books, kiss all the Pictures that are at the head of the Prayers, and very devoutly toss their Beads. After the Office is over, they commonly chat a quarter of an Hour in the Church. Then they go abroad and make some friendly Visits, or else go home to receive them. At these Visits, they hear all the News in Vienna. During this they have all a little Box of Indian Lack upon their Knees, in which they thread Gold till Dinner-time. When that's over, they drink Coffee or play at Quinze till Night, when they go to Court. From the Empress's Apartment they adjourn to the Assembly, where they divert themselves at Piquet, or at Quadrille; and then retire, undress themselves, go to Supper, and thence to Bed, well pleased to think with what Indolence and Idleness they have spent the Day.
The Women of the second Class, in which I include the Gentlewomen that have no Titles of Honour, viz. the Wives of the Assessors, Referendaries and Agents of the Court, discover such an Air of Plenty and Prosperity as is remarkably surprizing. Their Houses are richly furnished, and their Tables well served. If a Referendary has a mind to a nice bit, no body must offer to take it; and the best of every thing is what they are sure to lay hands on. Belly Cheer is one of those things which the Austrians generally think of most: They require a great many Dishes, and those well-cramm'd.
They are so very much accustom'd to this Profusion of Eatables that I have known some young People in Austria affirm they don't know what good Eating is in France, because they don't serve up a couple of Loins of Veal in one Dish. Different sorts of Wines are what they are also very much us'd to, which certainly is very expensive because foreign Wines pay considerable Duties; yet nothing less will serve them than eight or ten sorts of Wine, and I have been at Houses where there have been no less than eighteen. They place a Note upon every Plate expressing the several sorts of Wine at the Beaufet.
The Burghers and common sort of People mimick the Nobility as far as their Purses will afford; and it may be said that no Nation in the World is so extravagant as this.
The Austrians are naturally proud and haughty, and expect all Mankind should stoop to them. As their Sovereign is in the first Rank among the Christian Princes, so they think theirs to be the chief Nation in the World. Nothing is more vain nor more insupportable than a young Austrian, whose Father is in any Rank at Court. They are intoxicated with Pride and Presumption; and as they know themselves to be rich, and their Fathers to be great Lords, they think they may despise all the World, and lay aside that courteous and polite Behaviour which would so well become their Birth. Yet what I here observe to you concerning the young People is not so universally true as not to admit of great Exceptions, which is the Case of every thing asserted in the general.
The Court is not without Ladies who are much to be valued. The Empress Regent honours with her Confidence Madame the Countess de Fuchs, whose Husband was Minister of State to the Emperor, and his Plenipotentiary at Hambourg, where he died. This Countess is Sister to the Count de
Molard, Steward of the Emperor's Kitchens. She is a very polite Lady, and is so far from being envy'd for being a Favourite that all Persons of Distinction agree she deserves it, because she supports it with Modesty, and makes no other Use of it but to do good.
Madamoiselle de Klenck has a very great share in the Favour of the Empress Dowager, which I take to be a Reward due to her long Services, and to her Merit. She is chief Maid of Honour to that Princess, and has been engag'd to her ever since she has been at Vienna. If the Character of a thorough Gentlewoman may be attributed to any of the Sex, Madamoiselle de Klenck deserves it more than any other, it being impossible for a Person to have more Integrity, and more Generosity.
The Countess Dowager of Altheim, of the Pignatelli Family, in regard to whose Rank I ought to have mention'd her first, if I observ'd a very strict Order in my Writings, is a Native of Spain. The Count d'Altheim married her at Barcelona. Her Beauty was the more admir'd in Spain because she was fair. This Lady has a noble Air, and has a Genius capable for Affairs of the greatest Consequence. Their Imperial Majesties pay her great Distinction, and all the Courtiers honour and respect her, so that now in her Widowhood she continues in good Credit, and almost as much Authority as she had when that great Favourite her Husband was living.
The Gentry of Austria, and of all the Emperor's Hereditary Dominions, are so fond of the Title of Count, that the Gentlemen buy and sollicit it as eagerly as if it was a great Estate. 'Tis well for them that the Dispatch of their Patents does not cost much; for the greatest Privilege which this brings them is all a Chimæra. These Counts may be said to hold the same Rank among the ancient Counts
of the Empire as the King's Secretaries in France do among the Gentlemen of good Families.
As for Gentlemen, they are so common here that there are scarce any others to be seen. All the Agents of the Court, and all the Referendaries procure themselves a Title, tho' I know not why; for neither they nor their Wives dare to rank themselves among the Prime Nobility. This Madness of theirs to be enobled is so common, and so easy to be gratified, that I have known a Man, who was formerly Messenger to the Emperor Joseph, purchase the Title of Baron; and his Children begin to mix with the Grand Monde.
These, Sir, were all the Remarks that I made upon the Austrians. I must give you a few Particulars concerning the Emperor's Person. I have already said something to you of his Character: What follows is to shew you how grateful he is, and how friendly, Virtues which are the more to be esteem'd in him because they are not the most familiar to great Men.
The Emperor shows all possible Marks of Gratitude to those Spaniards who adher'd to him while he was at Barcelona. He has loaded them with Wealth and Honours; and if it's possible for one's native Country to be forgot, he has put them in a Situation to forget theirs. This particular Goodness of the Emperor extends to all that followed his Fortunes in Spain; whom he distinguishes upon all Occasions, and does them good preferably to his other Subjects. As to Friendship, no Monarch ever had more for any Favourite than Charles had for the late Count d'Altheim, his Master of the Horse. This Nobleman was the Emperor's Page, when he was only Arch-Duke; and he attended that Prince to Spain, where his Care, his Services, his Assiduity, and above all his Honesty and his Integrity, won him the intire Confidence of the young
Monarch. When this Prince became Emperor he rewarded the Count with Honours, Wealth, and Dignities. He lov'd him as long as he liv'd, and his Memory is still dear to him. As soon as he died, the Emperor declar'd himself Guardian to his Children, gave Orders in what manner they shou'd be brought up, and now treats them much more like his own Children than his Subjects. But what wou'd you say of the Emperor's tender Love for the Empress? Some time ago this Princess being dangerously ill, the Emperor not only sent for his Physicians, and conjur'd them to employ all their Art to save her Life, but promised them Rewards suitable to that Service, and actually watched with her several Nights to see her take the Remedies they prescrib'd. Does not a Conjugal-Love so perfect, deserve to be rewarded by the Birth of an Archduke? Adieu, Sir. If I were Emperor, you shou'd be my Count d'Altheim; but in the Condition I am in, you are the Person whom I honour most of all Mankind; and am, &c.
