LETTER XIV.
SIR,Munich, Jan. 5, 1730.
As I came hither from Vienna, I stay'd two Days at Lintz, the Capital of Upper Austria. This City lies on the Danube, over which there is a wooden Bridge. 'Tis a little Town, but well built, and has fine Churches. Its Inhabitants are thriving, and they drive a great Trade in Linnen-Cloth. 'Tis the Residence of a great many Persons of Quality, and of the Regency of the Province, of which the Count de Thirheim is the Chief. This Nobleman lodges in the Imperial Palace, which stands upon an Eminence, and commands the City. The Building is commodious enough, but not so magnificent. The Emperor Leopold stay'd here during the Siege of Vienna; till not thinking himself safe in it he retir'd to Passaw. The Neighbourhood of Lintz is very agreeable. All the way hither from Vienna the Danube is lin'd on both sides with Vineyards; but from Lintz to this Place, instead of Vines, there are Plantations of Hops.
Munich, in the German Tongue Munchen, stands in the middle of a large Plain, and in the Center of Bavaria, of which it is the Capital City. The Walls of it are washed by the River Iser; 'tis a small Town, but better built than fortified, for within these few Years several fine Houses have been
rais'd in it. The Elector's Palace is one of the biggest Piles of Building in Europe, but it wants a great deal of being so handsome a Structure as Misson and several other Authors have represented it; for its Magnificence consists principally in its Bulk. The chief Front, which looks towards a very narrow Street, has the Resemblance of a fair Convent; to which the Image of the Virgin Mary over the great Gate contributes not a little. That for which 'tis held in most Esteem is the great Apartment which is call'd the Emperor's Apartment. The Connoisseurs in Painting admire the Pictures in the great Hall, which represent both Sacred and Prophane History, and are performed by the Hand of Candi. The Chimney-piece in the same Room is very much esteem'd: Among other fine Figures with which it is adorn'd, there's a Statue of Porphyry that represents Virtue holding a Spear in the Right Hand, and in the Left a gilt Palm-Branch. In 1632, when Gustavus Adolphus King of Sweden made himself Master of Munich, he thought this so beautiful a Room that he was sorry he could not get it transported to Stockholm. In the Reign of Ferdinand Mary, Grandfather to the present Elector, great part of the Palace of Munich was reduc'd to Ashes, which Accident was, 'tis said, the Occasion of that Prince's Death; for being at Straubingen when he received the sad News of the Fire, he took Horse immediately and rode with such Fury to Munich that he receiv'd a Fall which in a little time prov'd his Death.
The present Elector Charles-Albert-Cajetan has embellish'd the Palace with a new Apartment, which, tho' not so big as the Emperor's, exceeds it in Magnificence. 'Tis adorn'd with noble Pictures, antique Busts, and Vases plac'd upon[111] Tables of very
great Value; and among other Things there's the Picture of the Virgin done by St. Luke.
There's a secret Passage from the Palace thro' little Galleries to all the Churches and Convents in the Town. The nearest Church is that of the Theatins, which together with their Monastery was built by Maria-Adelaide of Savoy Wife to Ferdinand-Mary. The Fryars of this Convent must be twenty seven in number, and all Men of Quality. They subsist by charitable Donations; but dare not ask Alms, and must wait for such Provisions as Providence shall please to send them. When they have suffer'd extreme Want at any Time for three Days together, they are permitted to ring a Bell as a Token of their Distress; but it has been observ'd that this never happen'd above twice since their first Establishment, because the Electors are too charitable to let them want. The Tomb of the Princes of Bavaria is in the Church of these honest Fryars.
The Church of our Lady is the parochial Church of Munich. In it is the stately Tomb of the Emperor Lewis of Bavaria who died of Poison. 'Tis adorn'd with a great many fine Figures of Brass and Marble. In this Church the Elector on the 24th of April last instituted the Order of St. George, by Authority of Pope Benedict XIII. The Ceremony was perform'd with a vast deal of Pomp, and the Elector of Cologn officiated at the High Mass. The Promotion consisted of three Grand Priors, six Grand Crosses, a Commander, and six Knights. Some time after this first Promotion the Elector made a second, in which he appointed one Grand Cross, and nine Knights. 'Tis said there will speedily be a third Promotion of eight more Knights, the whole Number being to consist of forty[112].
The Elector intends to annex Commanderies to his Order. They who are admitted into it must give Proofs of their Extraction from sixteen Descents; and this is so strictly observ'd that his most Serene Electoral Highness, as Grand Master of the Order, has renounc'd all Power of granting any Dispensation from it. According to the Statutes of this Order all the Knights are oblig'd to be Catholics, to defend the Faith and the Church, to protect Widows and Orphans, and to practise all the Christian Virtues. The Badge of the Order is a large Sky-blue Ribbon border'd about the breadth of an Inch with a black and white Stripe; and at the end of the Ribbon hangs a Cross enamell'd with blue, in the middle of which there is a St. George.
The Church and Convent of the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits are two very magnificent Structures. The Roof of the Church which is one single Nave is a Work of Skill and Ingenuity, wherein the Apertures are contriv'd with very great Art; for which reason, the Curious look upon this Fabric as a Master-piece of Architecture.
The Church of the Reverend Fathers of St. Austin, tho' but of a moderate Size, contains Beauties that are not always to be met with in greater Fabrics. The Pictures with which it is adorn'd are highly esteem'd, and good Judges agree there are few that can parallel them.
Tho' the Houses of Munich are all very well built, there are few that can be call'd Hotels or Palaces. The Count Piosas a Piedmontese has caus'd one to be built of late Years which is a considerable Structure with regard to the true Proportions of its Outside, and to the ingenious Distribution of the Apartments, which have fine Decorations and good Furniture.
The Court of Bavaria observes most of the Customs of the Court of Vienna in matters of Ceremony,
but as for the rest, their Way of living is different; here being more Freedom, and more Diversion.
The Elector Charles-Albert delights in Pleasures and bodily Exercise, and acquits himself therein with a Grace. He is a comely Personage, and has a grave, noble, and majestic Air, so that he is taken for a proud Man; yet few Princes are more gracious and more civil to Strangers, and to his Subjects also he is easy of Access. He was full of Life and Spirit when he was a Prince, and now that he is a Sovereign is become sedate and moderate. He is genteel, talks French, Italian, and Latin well, is Master of History, and perfectly acquainted with the Interest of Princes in general, and that of his own Family in particular. He sticks to Business, and above all seems to be very earnest in redressing his Finances which he found in great Disorder when he acceded to the Electorate. The Elector was born the 6th of August, 1697. He is Son of Maximilian-Emanuel famous for his Victories and for his Disgrace, and of Theresa-Cunegunda-Sobieski, Daughter of John Sobieski King of Poland. When Charles came into the World he had a Brother living who was born of the Arch-Duchess Mary-Maximilian, Emanuel's first Wife. This young Prince who all Europe expected wou'd be the Successor of Charles II. King of Spain, dying at Brussels the 6th of February, 1699, Charles thereby became the Electoral Prince: He was bred up at Munich with four of his Brothers, but both he and his Brothers surrender'd Prisoners to the Emperor Joseph after the Battle of Hochstet, which subjected all Bavaria to his Imperial Majesty. That Monarch had the young Princes remov'd to Gratz, where he caus'd them to be treated in a manner not so suitable to their high Birth as to their decay'd Fortune. When Joseph died, his Successor Charles VI. used the Princes
with less Severity, caus'd them to be honourably attended, and sent them Masters to instruct them; and upon the Peace of Rastadt which reinstated the Elector Maximilian-Emanuel in his Dominions, the Princes his Children were restor'd to him. They finish'd their Studies at Munich, after which the Elector sent the four eldest to Rome, where the second, whose Name was Duke Philip, died not long after he had been chose Bishop of Munster and Paderborn. Charles returning from Italy went to Vienna, made the Campaign of Belgrade, and some Years after that, he marry'd Mary-Amelia-Anne of Austria, the late Emperor Joseph's second Daughter. In 1725, Charles and his three Brothers were at Fontainbleau, at the Marriage of Lewis XV. and next Year he succeeded his Father who died at Munich lamented as he was ador'd by his Courtiers.
The Electoress who is a little Woman, very much resembles the Empress her Mother, and has more Vivacity than is common to the Princes of the House of Austria. She prefers Hunting to all other Pleasures, and there are few Days but she partakes of that Diversion with the Elector, who, as well as the Princes his Brothers, is fond of it.
The Elector has by his Marriage two[113] Princes and two Princesses. The eldest of the Sons who has the Title of the Electoral Prince is call'd Maximilian-Joseph, and was born the 28th of March, 1727. His most serene Electoral Highness's three Brothers are Duke Ferdinand, the Elector of Cologn, and the Bishop of Freisingen and Ratisbon. Of these Princes Duke Ferdinand is the only one who resides at Munich. His most serene Highness is a Lieutenant-General, and has a Regiment of Cuirassiers in the Emperor's Service. He is also a Knight of the Golden Fleece, and Grand Prior of the Order of St. George. He marry'd Mary-Ann-Caroline of
Newbourg, by whom he has two Sons and one Daughter. I have already told you that he was educated with the Elector his Brother, with whom he made the Campaign of Belgrade, travell'd several times to Italy, and last of all to France, where those Princes were admir'd for their Splendor, their Politeness, their good Taste, and their fine Understanding. One shan't find a Man more affable than Duke Ferdinand who is even ador'd at Munich, and is dearly belov'd by the Elector his Brother. The Duchess his Wife who is the best-natur'd Princess in the World makes grand Entertainments, and is particularly civil to Strangers.
The Bishop of Freisingen and Ratisbon spends more of his Time at Munich than in his Diocese. He is a Prince of great Penetration, Spirit and Vivacity, is generous, liberal, and charitable, extremely civil, and 'tis impossible to be acquainted with him without adding Love to that Respect and Veneration which are due to his Birth and Character. He enter'd very young into Orders, and was consecrated Bishop by his Brother the Elector of Cologn. 'Twas thought at first that he wou'd have made but an indifferent Ecclesiastic, but he has demonstrated that he knows how to reconcile the Gravity of a Prelate with the Magnanimity of a Temporal Prince.
The Court of Bavaria is without dispute the most gallant, and the politest in Germany. We have a French Comedy here together with Balls and Gaming every Day, and a Concert of Music three Times a Week, at which all the Company is mask'd; and after the Concert there's Gaming and Dancing. These public Assemblies, at which the Elector and the whole Court are present, bring in a great Revenue to the Elector's Valets de Chambre; for besides the Money which every one pays at Entrance, they are also paid for the Cards, and are
concern'd in almost all the Banks; so that those Domestics have almost all the Cash of the Nobility, with whom they don't scruple neither to rank themselves. Besides these noisy Pleasures we have others that are more tranquil, I mean those of civil Society. Of this kind there's more here than in the other Towns of Germany; but more still among the Foreigners that are in the Elector's Service than among the Bavarians; for these are generally proud, tho' 'tis certainly more owing to their Opinion that it gives them a good Air to be so than to their Temper; and they actually become more sociable when they are made sensible that their grand Airs are not astonishing.
The Title of Count is as common here as at Vienna, and the Bavarian Counts have no greater Privileges than those of Austria, for they are as much Subjects as the meanest Gentlemen. I find that those in Places, and who bear any Rank at Court are much more polite than others. The Counts de Thirheim, Torring, and Preising who have the chief Employments are so civil that I believe there's few Foreigners but will give them their Encomium.
The Elector has a very large Houshold, and a number of great Officers. I'll mention some of them to you.
The Count Maximilian de Torring-Seefeldt is Steward of the Elector's Houshold, a Minister of State, and Knight of the Golden Fleece. This Nobleman who is advanc'd in Years, is good-natur'd and civil, speaks little, is naturally grave, not fond of Pomp, and lives retir'd in the middle of a Court, but when he makes any Entertainment does it with Grandeur. He never once abandon'd the Elector Maximilian-Emanuel his former Master, but follow'd him in his Fortunes both good and bad.
The Count Sigismond de Thirheim is Great Chamberlain, a Minister of State, and Grand Croix of the Order of St. George. He is very tall, and tho' his Air is not the most affable, he is courteous and civil. He lives very nobly, and does the Honours of the Court very handsomely; consequently he is generally beloved and esteem'd. He was Governor of the Elector, who, contrary to most Princes that are not apt to retain an Esteem for those who once had the Care of their Education, gives great Proofs of his Regard for the Count de Thirheim.
The Count Maximilian de Fugger is Grand Marshal[114]. As he does not live at Munich, I have nothing particular to tell you of him.
The Count Maximilian de Preysing Master of the Horse, President of the Chamber of Finances, a Minister of State, and Grand Croix of the Order of St. George, is a very polite Nobleman, but serious and grave to the last degree. 'Tis difficult for any Man to be more attach'd to his Religion, to have more Candor, and to be more upright than this Minister. His Probity has brought Envy upon him, but it has procur'd him the Elector's intire Confidence, of which however the Count makes no farther Advantage than is requisite for his Master's Business. He is accus'd of being close-fisted, and of dissuading the Elector from giving Gratuities; but 'tis agreed that he is very charitable to the Poor. 'Tis a hard matter for a Minister who has the Direction of the Finances to please every body, and he is commonly the Butt of public Censure.
The Count de Rechberg Great Huntsman[115], Minister of State, President of the Council of War, Lieutenant-General, and Grand Croix of the Order of St. George, is Commander in Chief of the Elector's
Forces: He accompany'd the late Elector to France where he acquir'd the Reputation of an experienc'd skilful General.
Ignatius-Joseph Count de Torring is a Minister of State, Grand Master of the Artillery, and a Grand Croix of St. George. He followed the late Elector into France, and after that Prince was restor'd he went as Minister Plenipotentiary to the Imperial Court, where he negotiated the Marriage of the present Elector with the Archduchess, youngest Daughter to the late Emperor Joseph.
I cou'd tell you of many other Persons of Distinction at the Court of Bavaria, only I fear that being too particular wou'd tire your Patience. The Ministers who bear the greatest Sway are the Counts Maximilian de Preysing and de Torring, and M. d'Unertel. The first is Director of the Finances; the second has the Province of Foreign Affairs; and the third takes care of Affairs Domestic and Military. These three Ministers are the Arbiters of Bavaria, and to them the Tribunals of the several Provinces must apply.
Bavaria is divided into four Cantons or Provinces, viz. the Cantons of Munich, Burghausen, Landstrut and Straubingen. Each of these Provinces has a Regency or Parliament; and an Appeal lies from Sentences therein pass'd to the Elector's Council of State.
'Tis certain that Bavaria is one of the best States in the Empire. 'Tis said that it brings in seven Millions of Florins, and I have been assured by Persons who have Opportunities of being inform'd of the State of the Finances, that there was a time when the late Elector received eleven Millions per Ann. The Riches of Bavaria are owing to the Exportation of Salt and Corn, and to the Consumption of the Beer brew'd in the Country, which is as good as any in the World. Tirol, and the Country
of Saltzbourg, have almost all the Corn which they spend from Bavaria, and the Elector has a Florin for every Sack that is exported. Another thing which is a Treasure to Bavaria is the Fir-Trees, a Wood that serves for every Use that can be imagin'd, whether for Building, or for Houshold-Stuff. There is not a Province in the Empire where Provisions are cheaper, and in the mean time there's a vast Home-Consumption; for besides that the Bavarians love good Eating and Drinking, the Country is very populous; and 'tis computed that the Inhabitants of Munich alone are above 40,000.
Of all the Sovereigns in Europe, next to the King of France, the Elector of Bavaria has the finest Pleasure-Houses, for which he may thank the Elector his Father who had a wonderful good Fancy and Judgment.
Nymphenbourg a short League from Munich is a charming Place. The Castle is to be seen a great way off by reason of its Situation in the middle of a great Plain, so that from the Apartments of the second Story one discovers a vast Tract of Country, and an infinite number of Rural Beauties that are in the Neighbourhood of Munich. Mary-Adelaide de Savoy (Mother to Maximilian-Emanuel) who was extremely fond of the Arts and Sciences, and knew them perfectly well, was the Person who laid the Foundations of that Castle. The Man that she employ'd to build it was an Italian Architect whom she sent for out of Italy for the purpose. But all this Palace consisted only of one great Pavilion. Maximilian-Emanuel thinking the Castle too small, caused several Mansions to be added to it, together with fine Stables and grand Gardens; in short, he put the whole into that magnificent Condition we see it in at this day. His most serene Electoral Highness lets the Pavilion stand in pure respect to the Memory of his Mother who built it,
but 'tis pity he does; for 'tis much higher than the rest of the Edifice, and is no good Ornament to the main Building. In order to give you a more perfect Idea of this House, I will tell you that it looks towards a great and magnificent Canal terminated at each end by a spacious Basin adorn'd with Water-works and double Rows of Trees on each side which form the Avenues. We enter into the Castle by an Ascent of Marble Steps: The first Room we come to is a very great high Salon adorn'd with Architecture of Plaister of Paris very well executed. From each side of this Salon there is a Passage into several Apartments of which I shall not stop to give you the Detail, because I don't think it in my power to convey a suitable Idea to you of the Richness of the Furniture, and all the fine things that are in it. Imagine only that the late Elector who had an exquisite Taste, and a noble Soul, spar'd no Cost to adorn these Apartments. I pass to the Gardens which one enters from the Great Hall by a Descent of Marble Steps. The first thing that strikes the Eye is a Parterre of a vast Extent, at the Entrance of which there is a great Bason ornamented with a Group of Figures of mill'd Lead gilt with Water-Gold representing Flora receiving Flowers from Nymphs and Cupids. At the end of the Parterre there is one of the most agreeable Woods in the World, which is cut by three Walks in form of a Goose's Foot. The middlemost fronts the great Pavilion of the Castle, and has a large Canal in the middle of it of which one can't see the end: 'Tis terminated by a fine Cascade form'd by several Blocks of Marble, and adorn'd with fine Statues. The second Walk on the right hand leads one to the Mall which forms a Semi-Circle, and is one of the finest and longest I ever saw. At the Entrance of this Mall there is a Pavilion call'd Pagodebourg (the Castle of the Pagode;) 'tis two Stories
high, and built in form of the Pagodes Temples. I believe there never was any thing prettier. All the Furniture of this little Palace is Indian, of a charming Contrivance and Elegancy; and the whole is so well laid out that notwithstanding the smallness of the House, the Elector has every Convenience in it that can be desir'd. Over-against Pagodebourg on the other side of the Canal in the third Walk is Badenbourg (the Castle of Baths) which is a more considerable Building, and has all the Beauty of the Modern Bagnios. The Baths are spacious and lin'd with Marble. There is an Apartment consisting of several Pieces adorned with Stucco, and Pictures representing Venus in the Bath, Diana in the Water with her Nymphs, and the other Subjects of the Fable. The whole Apartment glitters with Gold, and the Furniture of it is rich, and of a charming Fancy. This beautiful House is surrounded with fine Pieces of Water adorned with Cascades and Statues. These Baths wou'd most certainly deserve a particular Description, and I am angry with myself for not being able to give it.
'Tis certain that next to the Gardens of Versailles, there is none so magnificent as those of Nymphenbourg; which is a Place that Art and Nature seem to have joined their Forces in order to render noble and agreeable.
The Castle of Schleisheim is a more regular Building than that of Nymphenbourg, and makes so grand an Appearance that I don't know any House in Germany that can compare with it. The great Stair-Case and the Salon in the large Apartment are the only Pieces in their kind. They are fac'd with Marble, and painted in a most correct and beautiful manner.
Taco, Furstenriet and Starenberg are Houses fit for the Solacement of a Great Prince, and will be
Testimonies to Posterity of the Elector Maximilian-Emanuel's grand and happy Taste.
Of all the Elector's Houses Nymphenbourg is that where the Court resides most. It is as well a Hunting-House as a Pleasure-House, by reason of a Park in the Neighbourhood which is eight Leagues in compass, and cut out into a great number of fine long Roads. Here the Elector comes to rouze the Stag; and there is a little Park adjoining to the Gardens, which, as well as the adjacent Fields, abounds with Pheasants, Partridges, and all other Game of that sort.
When the Court is at Nymphenbourg the Electress has a Drawing-Room there three times a Week where there is Gaming, and when that is over the Ladies sup with their Electoral Highnesses, who sometimes admit Gentlemen of their Court to their Table, but commonly all Foreigners. They who prefer taking the Air to Gaming, find open Calashes every Evening drawn by two Horses, at the bottom of the Steps on the side of the Garden: A Gentleman drives the Calash, two Ladies ride in it, and a Gentleman stands behind. And such as prefer the Water find very neat Gondolas finely gilt upon the Canal at their Service; so that there is no want of any thing to add to the Pleasures of all sorts in this inchanting Place.
Were I to enumerate to you all the various Pleasures of this Court I should never have done. For the present I shall confine myself to these already mentioned. I am resolved to set out in three or four days for Stutgard. I shall lie at Augsbourg, and at Ulm. A Frost which has held for a Month without ceasing has made the Roads so hard that I hope I shall roll along finely. I expect to hear from you at Stutgard. Pray take care that I be not disappointed, and believe that I am very sincerely, &c.
