LETTER XV.
SIR,Stutgard, Jan. 14, 1730.
There is nothing remarkable between Munich and Augsbourg except it be the fine Abbey of Furstenfeldt, which is in possession of the Bernardin Fryars. It was founded by Lewis the Severe Duke of Bavaria to attone for his Wickedness in putting Joan of Brabant his Wife unjustly to death. The History of Bavaria relates the Fact thus: Joan was a very beautiful Princess. Her Husband who was doatingly fond of her being obliged to take a Journey, put her under the Guard of one of his Aunts. While he was gone Joan wrote frequently to her Husband, and sometimes to his Prime Minister and Favourite. One day she put her Letters into the hands of a Domestic, charging him to deliver them as they were directed; but the Man made a Mistake, and gave the Letter which was for the Duke to his Favourite, and that which was for the Minister to the Duke. Lewis thought that his Wife's Style was too obliging to a Subject, and was even mad with Jealousy. He first kill'd his Favourite, and then taking horse posted to Donawert where his Wife was. He came to the Castle in the Night-time, murder'd the Porter with his own hand, put his Aunt and all with whom he had left his Wife in charge to Death; and then like another Herod, caused the unfortunate Joan to be beheaded. The Night after this barbarous Action, the Heirs of
Lewis's Head turn'd gray, tho' he was but twenty-eight Years old; which Accident made him sensible of his Guilt and of the Innocence of his Wife. As his Barbarity was great, so was his Repentance. He went on foot to Rome to beg the Pope's Absolution for his Sins, and obtain'd it on condition that he wou'd cause a Church to be built, and found a Monastery in his Dominions. Lewis returning from Rome founded the Abbey at Furstenfeldt. The first Establishment was only for eight Fryars; but the Piety of the Princes of Bavaria having wrought upon them to bestow their Favours upon this House, it now maintains thirty Fryars and an Abbot, whom the Monks have the Prerogative to chuse out of their own Body. These good Fathers are actually erecting a very stately Church, and they enjoy all the Conveniences of Life.
The Country between Munich and Augsbourg is level and intermix'd with Woods and Plains. Augsbourg which is a Bishop's See, and an Imperial City, is the Capital of Swabia, and one of the biggest and handsomest Towns in Germany. A small Branch of the Leck passes thro' it, and supplies it with plenty of Water. The Streets of Augsbourg are broad, strait and lightsome; the Houses well built, and many of 'em full of Paintings. The Inhabitants look upon Augustus to be the Founder of their City. 'Tis true that Emperor sent a Colony thither, but the Town was founded before. It is not said what Name it went by before the Name of Augusta Vindelicorum was given it to distinguish it from the other Towns that bore the Name of Augusta. The clearing up of this difficulty is what I shall leave to the Antiquarians, and confine my self to the Transactions at Augsbourg for about two hundred Years past. What will render this City for ever famous is the Confession of Faith which the Protestant Princes presented here to the Emperor Charles V.
in the year 1530. Tho' the Protestants were at that time very powerful in Augsbourg they cou'd not keep their ground, for they were drove out by the Bavarians; but Gustavus Adolphus restored them in 1632, since which time they have kept their Footing there, and share the Government with the Roman Catholics. In 1687, the Emperor, Spain, the United Provinces, and the Electors of Saxony, Brandenbourg, and the Palatinate concluded that famous League at Augsbourg against Lewis XIV. who was beginning to inforce the Claim of the Duchess of Orleans his Sister-in-law to the Succession of the Elector Palatine Charles-Lewis, who was that Princess's Brother. In 1690, Joseph Archduke of Austria King of Hungary, the eldest Son of the Emperor Leopold, was consecrated and crown'd King of the Romans at Augsbourg, at which Ceremony the Emperor, the Empress, the Electors of Mentz, Cologn, Triers, Bavaria, and the Palatinate were personally present.
In 1703, the Elector Maximilian of Bavaria, made himself Master of Augsbourg in one Week's time. This City had demanded and obtained a Neutrality, but having afterwards received an Imperial Garrison the Elector made use of that Pretence to lay Siege to it. He caused the Fortifications to be demolish'd, foreseeing, no doubt, that he should not be able to keep the Place. Augsbourg was set free again by the Battle of Hochstet, and still enjoys its Freedom under its own Magistrates, the Bishop having no Authority in the City as to Temporals. The present Bishop is of the Family of Neubourg, and Brother to the Elector Palatine. This Prince has the same Goodness of Temper which is so natural to all his Family. As his Bishoprick is not one of the most considerable in Germany, so his Court is none of the biggest, but
his Houshold is well regulated, and every thing conducted in it with Order and Splendor.
The Chapter of the Cathedral consists of Persons of Quality who are oblig'd to make Proof of their Nobility. The Canons have the Prerogative of chusing their Bishop, who like all the Prelates of Germany is a Sovereign Prince. He dwells at Augsbourg, tho' he ought to reside at Dillingen. The Episcopal Palace is old, and not very commodious: It joins to the Cathedral, which is a Gothic gloomy unwieldy Fabric, but its Ornaments are very rich.
The most considerable Building is the Town-house, a very substantial Pile built all of Freestone except the Portico, which is of Marble. The Rooms are very fine, and the great Hall especially is to the last degree magnificent. The Walls are cover'd with Painting, being such Emblems and Devices as have relation to the Government. Nothing can be more beautiful than the Cieling which consists all of Compartments whose Frames are carv'd and gilt in an extraordinary manner, the whole enrich'd with Pictures and other Ornaments perfectly well dispos'd.
Before the Town-house there's a very stately Fountain, where, among other fine Figures of Brass, the Statue of Augustus which is represented in a most noble Attitude is highly esteem'd.
The City of Augsbourg is in my Opinion something like Antwerp with regard to the Spaciousness of the Streets and the Substantialness of its Buildings; and formerly when the Venetians were Masters of all the Commerce, it resembled it in Trade; for Augsbourg was then the Staple for Merchandize, which was from thence transported to a great part of Europe. But since London and Amsterdam are become the Warehouses of the whole World, and the Commerce of Venice decays, the greatest Trade of Augsbourg consists in Goldsmith's Wares, with which this City furnishes Germany, Poland, and in general
almost all the North. These Wares are much cheaper here than elsewhere, and when the Patterns are furnish'd People are well serv'd. Notwithstanding the Decay of its Commerce there are several very rich Families; but whether any can do what Fugger did to the Emperor Charles V. is a Question. That Monarch passing thro' Augsbourg lodg'd at Fugger's House, who entertain'd him like an Emperor. The Fewel he burnt in every Chimney was Cedar, and after the Repast, which was extraordinary sumptuous, Fugger took a Bond for a very considerable Sum which the Emperor ow'd him, and threw it into the Fire.
The Nobility assemble commonly every Evening at the Three Kings Inn where I quarter. There's a very fine Hall well lighted, where they game, club for a Supper, and after Supper dance. Be not scandaliz'd that the Nobility have their Assembly at an Inn, it being one of the best Houses in Germany and the most superb Inn in Europe. There's very good Attendance. I have supp'd at it twice, and one cannot be better accommodated in any House whatsoever.
From Augsbourg I came to Ulm another Imperial City. Tho' all the Country is even, yet 'tis very tiresome to Travellers because of the Pavement of the Causeys; but Thanks to the Snow which has levell'd the Ways, I have not been much incommoded; tho' on the other hand I had like to have been lost in the Snow, such a quantity of it having fallen for two Days that one could not distinguish the Roads. I found my self at a Post-Stage where my Guide, tho' he was a Man that had grown grey in the Business of Postilion upon the same Road, did not know the Way. I was in danger every Moment of tumbling into some Ditch, when just as we entered a certain Valley my Postilion sounded a Horn to give notice to any
Carriages or Horses that might happen to meet us to make way, when a Voice from the Hollow call'd out to the Postilion, Who's that? Stephen? Oh! cry'd the Postilion, Is it you, Christopher? God be thank'd that I met with you! Then turning towards me, he said with an Air of Satisfaction, Now you are out of all Danger, for here's a blind Man that will conduct us to the Place we are going to. I thought the Droll jok'd with me, but we had not gone many Yards farther before I really saw a poor Wretch who could not see, yet offer'd to be my Guide, and promis'd he wou'd conduct me very well. I abandon'd my self to him, and he walk'd so fast before my Chaise that the Horses follow'd him in a gentle Trot till we came safe to the Stage. There he told me that 'twas fifteen Years ago that he lost his Sight by the breaking of an Imposthume in his Eyes, after having suffer'd such horrible Pains for two Months that he bless'd himself for the Loss of his Sight; so that when I ask'd him if he was not very much concern'd at it, he said that at first it made him melancholy for some time, but that he always comforted himself by the Remembrance of the Torture he had undergone in the Loss of his Sight, and that he thought it were much better to be blind and to have his Health than to see, and suffer the Pains that he had endur'd; but that now he was so us'd to his Condition it gave him no Concern. Indeed, when I ask'd him, if he should not be very glad to recover his Sight? he said, Yes, if it were possible; but that if he must undergo the same Pains to recover it as he had felt in the Loss of it, he had rather by a thousand times continue blind. When I told him of my Surprize that he should find out the Way better than those who see, he told me that since he had been blind he came regularly on Sundays and Saints Days to the Place where we were to hear Mass, and that therefore the Road
was become very familiar to him. He added, that he sometimes went alone to beg three or four Leagues from his Village, which was a quarter of a League from the hollow Way where I met with him. I sent the Man away, after giving him some Relief; and could not but admire the divine Providence, which tho' it had afflicted the poor Wretch with what to me seems more terrible than Death, gave him Strength to bear his Misfortune with Patience.
The City of Ulm is not above half as big as Augsbourg, but is much better fortify'd. The Danube which washes its Walls, becomes navigable at this Place, and a Boat goes from hence every Week for Vienna, which is a great Ease to People who are not in a Condition to lay out much Money; for it costs but a Creutzer, which is one Penny a German Mile. Tho' the City of Ulm maintains a very numerous Garison, and is very well fortify'd, and furnished with a good Arsenal, the Elector Maximilian of Bavaria took it by Surprize in 1702, it being a Place necessary for him to secure his Dominions on that side, and to facilitate the Passage of the French Troops that were to join his Army. General Thungen robb'd him of this Conquest the 10th of Sept. 1704, after about a Week's Siege.
Then it was that Ulm became again subject to its Magistrates who are all Lutherans. The Catholics cannot enjoy Offices, but have several Churches. This City drives a great Trade in Linnen, but few of the Gentry live here except the Patricians who are not more sociable than those of Nuremberg and Augsbourg. The Burghers and the Women in particular go dress'd like those at Augsbourg. To see them go to and come from Church is next kin to seeing a Masquerade, and 'tis certainly one of the most diverting Sights in this City, where really I did not give my self time to be tired, for I set out
again the very next Day after I came, and arrived in this Town, where I have now rested my self a couple of Days.
Stutgard lies in the middle of a Valley surrounded with Vineyards. 'Tis pretty large, has Streets broad and strait, but the Houses are of Timber. 'Tis the Capital of the Duchy of Wirtemberg, and was formerly the Residence of the Sovereigns of the Country; but Eberhard-Lewis the present Duke of Wirtemberg established his Seat some Years ago at[116] Ludwigsbourg, a new City and a new Palace of his own building.
The Duke's Castle is an old Structure of Freestone, compos'd of four Piles of Building, flank'd at each Angle by a Tower. The Walls of it are wash'd by Ditches which give it the disagreeable Air of a Prison. The Duchess who is the Duke's Wife, and Sister to the Margrave of Baden-Dourlach, has an Apartment in this Palace. You know that this Princess and her Husband don't live well together. The Prince[117] about twenty Years ago preferr'd a Mistress to her[118], who certainly has neither the Beauty, nor the Merit of the Duchess. The Princess is remarkably patient under the Indifference of a Husband, and the Contempt of the most haughty Rival that ever was. The frequent Visits paid her by her only Son are all the Comfort she has. The Court neglects her, no body dares
to go near her, and whoever pays the Duchess the Respects that are naturally due to her, is sure to incur the merciless Hatred of the Mistress. I may be able perhaps to give you a farther Account of this Princess and her Rival when I have been at Ludwigsbourg, whither I propose to go to-morrow, and where I hope for a Line from you.
I am, &c.
