LETTER XIX.
SIR,Heidelberg, March 12, 1730.
Being in the Neighbourhood of Saverne where the Cardinal de Rohan lives, I had a mind to go thither. I have had the Honour to be known to that Prelate a long time, and was overjoy'd at the opportunity of paying my respects to him.
Armand Gaston Cardinal de Rohan was elected Bishop of Strasbourg the 10th of April 1704[127], and received the Cardinal's Cap from the Hands of Lewis XIV. the 18th of May, 1712. The Year following he succeeded the Cardinal de Janson as Great Almoner. The Emperor granted him the Temporal Investiture of the See of Strasbourg[128] on
the 10th of June 1723, and in 1724, he obtain'd a Seat in the College of Princes at the Assembly of Ratisbon. This Prelate who is considerable for his Birth and Dignities, is much more so for his great Soul, his polite and obliging Behaviour, and for an Air of Grandeur which accompanies all his Actions. He is a comely Person, as are indeed all of his Family. Being noble and magnificent in every thing that he does, he lives wherever he is like a great Nobleman, but particularly at Saverne. I found at his Palace the Duke and Duchess of Tallard, the Duchess de la Meilleraie, Madamoiselle de Melun, the Prince and Princess of Birkensfield, M. Dangervilliers, the Intendant of Strasbourg, the Count and Princess of Hanau, and in short a great many Officers of Distinction. They had all convenient Lodgings and Accommodation in the Castle; and Gaming, taking the Air, Hunting, Music, and Good Cheer were their constant Diversions.
The Bishops of Strasbourg have resided for a long time at the Palace of Saverne, which was always a convenient House; but the Cardinal de Roban has made it very considerable. The outside of this Palace is not so magnificent as the inside. The Entry which leads to the chief Stair-Case is lighted to great advantage, and has several Outlets that have a convenient Communication with the lower Apartments, which are high, and very finely embellish'd. The principal Stair-Case is very grand, and leads to a stately Salon with most curious Decorations. It has a double Apartment which is render'd as commodious as possible; and the Furniture consists of Embroidery of Gold and Silver, which may be thought perhaps too rich. The Queen, who lodg'd at the Cardinal's House when she came to Saverne, was charm'd with the Splendor of it, and the extraordinary Respect with which she was attended here.
The Cardinal de Rohan designs that this rich Furniture shall remain annex'd to the See; for which his Successor will certainly have very great Obligations to him: But his Eminence was not so much oblig'd to his Predecessors; for when he was chose Bishop he found a House very much out of order, and scarce a Chair in it, whereas 'tis now fit for a King. His Eminency is about making very large fine Gardens, which are in very great forwardness, and perfectly answerable to the Grandeur and Beauty of the Palace; and at the end of them there is a stately Canal which cost infinite Labour and Expence. The whole of it is the more magnificent because Saverne stands at the foot of very high Mountains; and in digging the Canal the Workmen often met with Rocks which they were forc'd to blow up.
At the Cardinal's Table there's both Abundance and Elegance; and his Eminency entertains in such a manner as really charms his Guests. All his Domestics follow his example; and 'tis certain that they are all very diligent; and that there is not a House in France, or in Europe, where there's better Attendance. His Eminency's Houshold, and all his Temporal Affairs in general, are directed by the Abbott de Ravanne, Counsellor in the Parliament of Paris.
The Cardinal is one of the richest Noblemen in France, and without dispute the most expensive. He has built a Hotel at Paris, and furnish'd it sumptuously. He has made considerable Works at Saverne, and laid out a great deal of Money in Plate, Furniture, Pictures, antique Vessels, and Busts, Medals, and Books. Some time ago he purchas'd of the President Menard the famous Library of the illustrious Messieurs de Thou, formerly one of the most celebrated in France; and he daily in-riches
it with all the most curious and uncommon Books and Manuscripts.
Besides all these Expences, the Cardinal intends also to build a new episcopal Palace at Strasbourg[129], where he is indeed but indifferently lodg'd at present. The Marquiss de N—— talking of the Cardinal de Rohan's Expence, said, That, to be sure, his Eminency had found out the Philosopher's Stone. I think so too, and that he has done it by procuring himself five or six hundred thousand Livres a-year in good Benefices.
From Saverne I went to Haguenau, and to Weissenbourg, formerly Imperial Cities, and now subject to France, but Places of little consequence. King Stanislaus after the Death of Charles XII. King of Sweden, being forc'd to quit Deux-Ponts to which he had retired with his Family, came and resided at Weissenbourg; and here it was that he receiv'd the first Proposals that were made to him for the Marriage of his Daughter with King Lewis XV. I came and took up my Quarters at Landau, one of the most scoundrel Places in the World, but the best fortify'd; and famous for having stood out several Sieges. The Emperor Joseph took it when he was King of the Romans. The French retook it a little before the signing of the Peace at Rastadt, by which Treaty it was left in their hands. They maintain a good Garison in it, and have added several Works to it.
From Landau I pass'd to Brhousel, with an Intention to pay my respects to the Cardinal de Schonborn Bishop of Spire who resides there, but I did not succeed better there than at Rastadt; for his Eminency excus'd himself from seeing me because he was going a hunting, and put me off till next day; but I did not think it worth while to wait, what had happen'd to me at the Court of Baden being too fresh in my Memory. I was afraid of the
same Fate at Brhousel, where I lay at such sorry Quarters that I cou'd not avoid catching Cold, my Lodging-Room being without Glass, and be famish'd into the bargain, there being nothing to eat: Besides, my Landlord told me that the Cardinal made even those People who came to him upon Business dance attendance for three or four days. I said to my self therefore that he had much more reason to make me wait, who came to his Court out of meer Curiosity. I resolv'd therefore, as any Gentleman ought to have done in the like case, and took the opportunity of the Cardinal's Absence to go and view the outside of his Palace. 'Tis a great Structure not yet entirely finish'd, which the Cardinal has hitherto carry'd on from the very Foundation; but if I must be sincere with you, all these Works, considerable as they are, have been form'd upon pitiful Plans. It has cost a very large Sum of Money; and I fancy that in the time of the ancient Teutonics, it wou'd have been reckon'd a very fine Structure. The chief Beauty of it lies in its Situation; for a great Variety of agreeable Objects are discovered from the Apartments. The Gardens are also so new that one can scarce know the Plan of 'em; it seems to me that they are not of an extraordinary Taste, and that they wou'd be much more suitable for a private Man than for a Sovereign.
The Cardinal de Schonborn is a keen Sportsman. He has Game enough in his own Bishoprick, for the Country so abounds with all sorts that the Fields are ruin'd by the Deer. The Peasants are so hard put to it to preserve their Corn that they are oblig'd to watch it day and night. The Cardinal often makes Hunting-Matches for the Stag and wild Boar, in which they kill hundreds; at such times the Peasants are oblig'd to take a certain quantity of Meat, for which they pay so much a
Pound, according to a Price that is regulated. The Bishoprick of Spire is one of the fruitfullest Provinces in Germany, but the Inhabitants are extremely poor; for their Provisions lie on their hands, and they have scarce wherewithal to pay the great Taillies due to their Sovereigns.
The Dignity of the Bishop of Spire is elective, as are all the Bishopricks of Germany which are not in the hereditary Dominions of the House of Austria. The Bishop is Sovereign of the Country, but the City of Spire has particular Privileges, as have all the Imperial Cities. You know it was at Spire that the Emperor Charles V. establish'd the Imperial Chamber, which is as it were the Parliament of the Empire. The French having destroy'd Spire when they ravag'd the Palatinate, the Chamber or supreme Tribunal was transferred to Wetzlar in Wetteravia, where indeed it seem'd to be more in the Center of Germany, and secur'd from all manner of Insult.
Damien-Hugo Count de Schonborn Cardinal, is at this present Bishop of Spire, and Co-adjutor of Constance. He is also grand Commander of the Teutonic-Order. He was heretofore a Member of the Emperor's Privy-Council, and his Plenipotentiary to the Circle of Lower Saxony. Clement XI. of the Albani Family honour'd him with the Purple. He is descended of a Family in which Merit has happen'd to be back'd by Fortune. The Cardinal's Father was the first Count of it. He was also one of the Emperor's Privy-Council, and Brother to Lotharius-Francis Elector of Mentz and Bishop of Bamberg. The Cardinal has actually a Brother who is Elector of Triers, another who is Bishop of Wurtzbourg and Bamberg, whom I have mention'd to you upon other occasions; and lastly, a third who is a Counsellor of State[130] to the Emperor,
and is now the Head of the Family. Messieurs de Schonborn had formerly an Elector of Mentz in their Family, who was at the same time Bishop of Wurtzbourg, but that Prince left them no great Estate; so that they were not very rich when Lotharius-Francis, Uncle to them all, was chose Elector of Mentz. But this Prince procur'd them both Wealth and Honours, and render'd the Count de Schonborn, who is Counsellor of State to the Emperor, one of the richest Noblemen in Germany.
From Brhousel to Heidelberg there's one of the finest Countries in the World, planted with Fruit, and especially Walnut-Trees, which bring in a great Revenue.
The City of Heidelberg, upon the Necker, is very much pent up by that River, and a Chain of Hills, so that 'tis not near so broad as 'tis long. This City is the Capital of the Lower Palatinate, and was formerly the Residence of the Electors. Here is a University which was founded in 1346, by Robert Prince Palatine, who was chose King of the Romans. No Town has smarted more by the Scourge of War. Since the Disgrace of Frederic Elector Palatine, whom the Bohemians chose for their King, it has been taken, plunder'd, or burnt four times. In 1622, the Emperor's General Tilly put 500 Palatines in it to the Sword, and at the same time the Emperor carry'd off the famous Library, which he gave in part to Urban VIII. who caused it to be placed in the Vatican, where 'tis still to be seen. In 1634, Heidelberg was besieg'd twice. John de Werth took it for Lewis XIV. but not being able to carry the Castle he retir'd. Not many days after, the Marshals de Force and Brezé forc'd the Quarters of the Germans, and took both the Town and Castle. The French took this City a third time in 1688, and again in 1693, which
was the last time, Sword in hand; at what time they committed Cruelties shocking to remember, and of which there are woful Marks still left in Heidelberg, and all the Towns in the Palatinate. This City was beginning to recover it self by the Elector's residing there, when it brought a more heavy Disgrace upon it self than all the Misfortunes it had suffer'd by the War. The Case was thus:
The great Church of Heidelberg since the Peace of Westphalia belongs half to Roman Catholics, and half to the Calvinists, of whom the former have the Choir, and the others the Body, and nothing but a thin Partition separates the two Communions. The Choir not being big enough to contain the Catholics when the Court resided at Heidelberg, the Elector propos'd to the Calvinists to yield him the Body of the Church, alledging that not only the Choir was too scanty, but that he shou'd be very glad that the Church in which the Palatine Princes lie interr'd were altogether Catholic. He promis'd at the same time that another Church should be built for them larger and finer than what they were to yield to him. The Calvinists said that the great Church had been granted to them by the Treaty of Munster; that all the Princes who were Guarantees of the Peace of Westphalia were engag'd to preserve them in the enjoyment of it; that therefore they could not give it up without violating that Treaty, which was their Security, and without rendring themselves unworthy of the Protection of the Protestant Powers. The Elector, in order to remove those Obstacles, consented that the Powers who were Guarantees of the Westphalian Treaty of Peace, in which the Church he desir'd was expressly mentioned, should be Guarantees of the Church which he promis'd should be built for them: But all these Offers how reasonable soever were not accepted by
the Calvinists. The Elector being thereby incens'd, made use of his Sovereign Authority, and took by force what they were not willing to yield to him; whereupon the Calvinists had recourse to the Protestant Princes of the Empire, the Lutherans as well as the Calvinists, who constituting but one Body and one Communion when the Catholics are to be oppos'd, united together, and engag'd in their Quarrel the Kings of Great Britain, Denmark, Sweden, and Prussia, and the States-General. These Powers caused the Catholic Churches in their Dominions to be shut up, sequester'd the Estates of the Convents, and made such Clamors and Menaces that the Elector was oblig'd to reinstate the Calvinists in the Nave of the Church; but he was so angry with the Inhabitants of Heidelberg for their Disrespect to him that he remov'd his Residence to Manheim. The Burghers were not very sorry at first for the Departure of the Court; for being accustom'd to its Absence, they flattered themselves that the Tribunals of the Regency, which, since the Accession of the Newbourg Family to the Electorate, had constantly been kept at Heidelberg, would remain there still. But they were soon thrown into the utmost Consternation when they saw those Tribunals follow the Elector. They went and cast themselves at the Feet of their angry Sovereign, and asking his Pardon for having affronted him, they offer'd him the Church which was the cause of his Displeasure, and conjur'd him to return to their City. But all their Supplications were fruitless; the Elector was stedfast in his Resolution to punish Heidelberg, and abandon'd it for ever. Heidelberg having no Trade, and subsisting only by the Court, or by the Tribunals of the Regency, of which it was totally depriv'd, falls now into decay, and will, no doubt, e'er 'tis long dwindle to little or nothing.
The Elector's Palace is higher than the City, and situate in such a manner that there's a Prospect from the great Apartments quite through the Opening between the Mountains, by which the Necker runs into the Plain. The Palace is built of Free-Stone, and is a magnificent Structure. The greatest part of it was burnt by the French when they destroy'd the Palatinate: The Lodging-Rooms that are subsisting are very substantial, tho' not built in the modern Taste. The Apartments are large, but want Ornament, especially since they have been stript of their Furniture. The Gardens were formerly reckon'd the finest in Germany; but there's scarce any thing left of them except the Place where they flourished. If one may judge of what they were by their Situation, they must have been very pleasant, by reason of the extensive Prospect they afforded into the Country.
I do not intend to detain you with an Account of the famous Tun, Misson having given a more exact Description of that than of many Towns which he treats of. You will in his Travels find a Cut of this Vessel, which will give you a more perfect Idea of it than any Narrative whatsoever. The Elector John-William, the Predecessor of the present Elector, gave a Companion to this Tun, which is not altogether so large, but much more adorn'd. They are both full of Wine. I remember that in 1719, when I was at the Palatine Court, the Elector ask'd me at Table whether I had seen the Great Tun; and upon my saying that I had not, that Prince, than whom there was not a more gracious Sovereign in the whole World, told me he would carry me to it. He made a Proposal to the Princess his Daughter, who was marry'd to the hereditary Prince of Sullzbach, to go thither after Dinner was over; which she accepted. The Trumpets led the way, and the Court followed in
great Ceremony. When we had mounted the Platform which is over the Tun, the Elector did me the honour to drink to me out of the Wilkom, which was a Silver gilt Cup, of a large dimension. He took it off clean at one Draught, and having caused it to be replenished, sent it to me by a Page. Good Manners, and the Respect I ow'd to the Elector's Commands, not permitting me to refuse the Chalice, I begg'd heartily that he would suffer me to drink it off at several Draughts; which was indulg'd me; and the Elector talking in the mean time with the Ladies, I took the opportunity of his Absence, and made no scruple to deceive him, for I return'd great part of the Wine to the bottom of the Tun, threw a part of it on the ground, and the rest, which was the least part of it, I drank. I thought my self well off that he did not perceive in what manner I bubbled him; for I saw he was very well pleased with me. Then several other great Glasses went round, and the very Ladies wet their Lips, which was the thing that effectually contributed to demolish us. I was one of the first that was overpower'd. I perceived those convulsive Motions that threaten'd me if I drank any more, therefore I sneak'd off and made the best of my way down from the Platform. I was endeavouring to get out of the Vault, but was stop'd at the Door by two Life-Guard Men, who with their Carabines crossing each other, cry'd, Stand, there's no coming this way. I conjur'd them to let me pass, and told them that I had very important Reasons for my departure; but I might as well have talk'd to the Wind. I found my self in a terrible Quandary: To get up again to the head of the Tun was Death: What would become of me I could not tell. In short I crept under the Tun, and there hoped to hide my self; but it was a fruitless Precaution: There's no avoiding a Man's Destiny. It was my
Fate to be carry'd out of the Vault, and to know nothing of the matter. For the Elector perceiv'd I was a Deserter, and I heard him say, Where is he? What's become of him? Let him be look'd after, and brought up to me dead or alive. The Guards at the Door being examin'd said that I came that way in order to get out, but that they sent me back again. All these Inquiries, which I heard from my Hole, made me burrow my self the more. I crept under the Covert of a couple of Boards I met with by chance, where nothing but a Cat, Devil, or Page could possibly find me out. But a little Page, who was indeed both Devil and Page too, ferreted me, and baul'd out like one that was mad, Here he is! Here he is! and then I was taken out of my Covert. You may imagine what a silly Figure I made. I was carry'd before my Judge, who was the Elector himself. But I took the liberty to challenge both him and all the Gentlemen in his Retinue, as being Parties in the Cause. Alas! my little Gentleman, said the Prince to me, You refuse us for your Judges; I will appoint you others then, and we shall see whether you come off any better. He nominated the Princess his Daughter, and her Ladies to try me, and the Elector was my Accuser. After pleading my own Cause they put it to the Vote, and I was condemn'd unanimously to drink as long as I could swallow. The Elector said, that as he was the Sovereign he would mitigate my Sentence; that I should that day drink four Pint Glasses of Wine, and that for a Fortnight running I should tip off the like Glass to his Health immediately after Dinner. Every body admir'd the Elector's Clemency, and whether I did or not, I was fain to do as they did, and to return him Thanks. Then I underwent the heaviest part of my Sentence; I did not lose my Life indeed, but for some Hours I lost both my Speech and my
Reason. I was carry'd to a Bed, where when I came to my self I was told that my Accusers were in the same pickle as I was; and that none of them went out of the Vault in the same manner as they enter'd it. Next day the Elector was so good as to mitigate the remaining part of my Sentence, and excus'd me from the Penance to which I was condemn'd, upon my promising him that I wou'd make one at his Table for a Month to come.
I am, &c.
