The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume I / Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels from Prussia thro' Germany, Italy, France, Flanders, Holland, England, &C. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not Only the Present State of the Chief Cities and Towns; but the Characters of the Principal Persons at the Several Courts.

by Freiherr von Karl Ludwig Pöllnitz

LETTER XX.

SIR,Manheim, March 17, 1730.

In going from Heidelberg to Manheim we leave the Necker on the right hand, but keep almost all the way by the side of that River. 'Tis three Leagues from one City to the other, over a fruitful Plain. Manheim lies between the Rhine and the Necker, in a marshy Country, which has always been reckon'd very unwholesome. About fourscore Years ago this City was but a Village. Frederic Elector Palatine, who was chose King of Bohemia, caus'd it to be fortify'd, and built a Castle or Citadel there, which he call'd Fredericsbourg. At the same time a Town was built, of which all the Streets run parallel, the chief that passes thro' the middle of the Town was planted with Trees after the manner of Holland. But the French having taken Manheim in 1693, raz'd it to the ground,

and by the Treaty of Nimeguen it was stipulated that Manheim should be demolished; which was done accordingly. John-William of Newbourg, the last Elector, began again to fortify Manheim, according to the Plans laid down by the famous Cohorn; but those Works were suspended, so that no more than two Bastions and a Courtain were finish'd. When the present Elector Charles-Philip came to live at Manheim he caus'd those Works to be resumed which his Brother had discontinued, and to be carried on with such Diligence that in a few Years he put the Place in a state of Defence[131]. The Fortifications are all fac'd with Brick; and Manheim is now one of the best Places in all Germany.

This City has three fine Gates, of which that of the Necker is the most magnificent, and the best adorned; in which one sees beautiful Basso-relievos, after a Plan very happily executed. This Gate opens towards a long and spacious Street, at the end of which stands the Elector's Palace, one of the largest and most substantial Buildings in Europe. It were to be wish'd indeed that the Architecture had been more regular: Never had any Architect more Advantage, for he built it new from the Foundation, was not stinted for want of room, and as he set no Limits to his Expence, I should have thought that a masterly hand might have produc'd something curious. Nevertheless there are Faults in the Building which are shocking to such as have the least Skill in Architecture; insomuch that they who have a Taste for that Science are sorry that a Building which has been so expensive has been no better conducted. The Situation of this Palace is indeed very fine, at the end of the City, and of a very noble large Street, which like all the rest runs in a strait Line. The Palace, which has a great Square

before it, consists of a large number of Lodging-Rooms, with a great high Pavilion in the middle, and two advanc'd Wings, with ample Pavilions at the ends; where two other very extensive Wings rise on both sides that are likewise terminated by Pavilions, behind which there are other Lodging-Rooms. The inside of the Palace is form'd by two great Courts, which are to be separated by an open Gallery or Terrass, the Model of which is very much adorned with Architecture; but I can't think it will look well when 'tis done. The Apartments are adorn'd with fine noble Floors and Cielings, and have the finest Prospect in the World to Spire, Franckendahl, Worms, and all the Country in general, as far as the Mountains of Alsace, which consists wholly of Towns and Villages. All this fine fruitful Country is water'd by the Rhine, which passes behind the Palace of Manheim, and washes its Fortifications. Upon this beautiful Canal there are to be the Gardens of the Palace, for which there are intended two Courtains and a Bastion.

'Tis almost inconceivable how the Elector was able to get all the Works about Manheim finished in so few Years; for in short I remember to have seen Partridges where there are now Houses and Palaces. The whole Town is laid out in a most regular and charming manner; and 'tis without dispute one of the prettiest Towns in Europe. 'Tis pity the Houses are not higher: The reason they alledge for it is, that Manheim is a fortify'd Town, and that by consequence the Houses ought to be low. I know not what Authority there is for this, since Strasbourg, Metz, Luxembourg, and Lisle, are Places of much more Importance than Manheim, and yet the Houses are as high there as they are in other Towns.

The Palace is commodious, and yet, for what reason I know not, the Elector does not live

in it[132]. Some say that he has been told of so many Faults in it as have quite put him out of conceit with it, and others that 'tis because a certain Astrologer prophesy'd he would die there; but I am apt to believe that the latter Reason is no more than a Joke, and I dare to say that the Elector is too wise a Man to credit it. Mean time this Prince dwells in a House belonging to a Jew, to which several other private Houses are join'd; but for all that the Lodgings are very bad.

There can't be a better-natur'd Man than Charles-Philip of Newbourg, Elector Palatine. He is the best of Masters, and the most affable of Princes. He is reckoned extremely handsome, and one of the chief Dancers in his time; and he has a noble Aspect. His Behaviour and Conversation engage one to love him, and to pay one's court to him out of pure Inclination. He formerly was fond of Pomp and Pleasure, but since the loss of his only Daughter and his Son-in-law, who died within a few Years one of another, he seems to be no longer taken with what was heretofore his Amusement. The Elector has been twice marry'd, viz. first to Louisa-Charlotte Princess of Radzeville, and secondly to Theresa Lubomirski, both Polish Ladies. The former left him a Daughter that was marry'd to Joseph-Charles Prince Palatine of Sultzbach, but died in 1728; as did her Husband the Year following. This Princess had such Beauty and Merit, that she was the Comfort of her Father and the Admiration of her Acquaintance. She left three young Princesses, whom the Elector causes to be educated at his Court, where they are now all that he has to delight him; but then they incessantly renew to him the sorrowful Remembrance of a Daughter who was extremely dear to him.

The Death of that Princess has been a very great Affliction to the Elector, and chang'd the Face of the Palatine Court. Indeed as to Affability, and to the Goodness of his Temper, he is still the same Elector, but he has no longer that Gaiety of Humour which his Daughter's Company rais'd in him; for she had a thousand different Amusements for him, and Pleasures and Merriment every where accompany'd her. The Elector eats always in private, except on Holidays, and when there's any foreign Prince at his Court. After he has been in public at Mass, he commonly stops in one of his Apartments to chat with the Courtiers, or to play at Billiards till Dinner-time. After Dinner he goes to Bed, and lies there two Hours; then he rises, and after having caus'd himself to be dress'd, he gives Audience to his Ministers, and to such private Persons as want to talk with him. He is very attentive to those who speak to him, and answers them with Good-nature and Kindness. He seldom refuses what is in his power to grant; and when Reasons force him to a denial, 'tis visible that he is uneasy, and he refuses in so civil a manner, that People go away at least comforted, if not contented. At six o'clock in the Evening the whole Court meets in his Electoral Highness's Apartment, where there is Play till nine o'clock, and then the Elector retires, makes a very slight Supper, and goes to Bed in good time.

Tho' the Elector dines in private there's always a Table sumptuously serv'd for the hereditary Prince of Sultzbach, Brother to him who was the Elector's Son-in-law. This passes for the Elector's Table, is spread for eighteen Guests, and is serv'd by Pages.

The Prince de Sultzbach is look'd upon as the Elector's Heir, because 'tis not supposed that the Elector's Brother, the Elector of Mentz, would

be willing to quit the first Electorate of the Empire, and the great Benefices which he possesses, to become Elector Palatine, if he should happen to survive his Brother[133]. The Bishop of Augsbourg, the Elector's second Brother, being a Priest, cannot succeed. The Prince de Sultzbach's Father is still living; but being as old as the Elector, he is not like to survive him very long[134]. The Prince John-Christian of Sultzbach was born in 1700. He is the Widower of the Princess de la Tour of Auvergne, who brought him for her Portion the Sovereignty of Bergopzoom; and left him a Son, who is educated at Brussels with his Great-Grandmother the Duchess Dowager of Aremberg. The Prince John-Christian is tall and extremely corpulent, insomuch that 'tis well if he has not the Dropsy. He spent the first Days of his Youth at the Court of Lorrain in France, and in the Netherlands, by which Travels he acquired a great deal of Politeness. He was lately betrothed to Eleonora-Philippina of Hesse-Rhinfelds, Sister to the Princess of Piedmont[135], and to the Duchess of Bourbon. This Princess is every day expected from Turin, to which Place she accompanied her Sister. Their Highnesses will then go and keep their Court at Heidelberg[136].

The Principal Noblemen of the Palatine Court are the following:

Francis-George Count of Manderscheldt-Blanckenheim[137], the Steward of the Houshold, Prime Minister, and Knight of the Order of St. Hubert. He is of illustrious Extraction; is a Man of Integrity and very great Probity, incapable of doing an ill thing, but not at all engaging in his Deportment; for he is reserved, with an Air of Haughtiness, which is a Defect that he was born with, and endeavours to conquer, but cannot. When one knows him intimately he proves a good Friend, and capable of doing one Service. He has very great Pensions from the Elector, and is the oldest of his Family, which being pretty numerous, he does not live in a very grand manner.

The Baron de Sickingen is Great Chamberlain, Minister of State, and Knight of the Order of St. Hubert. He is a Gentleman of a fine Presence, of an easy and engaging Access, with profound Learning, and Sentiments suitable to his Birth. He was Governor of the late Prince de Sultzbach, Son-in-law to the Elector; and he imprinted such Ideas of Men and Things in the Mind of that young Prince, as gave great hopes that his Government would be happy if ever he attain'd to it. M. de Sickingen was afterward the Elector's Envoy Extraordinary to the Imperial Court; and I knew him at Vienna where he was exceedingly beloved. At his return he succeeded his Brother in the Office of Great Chamberlain, which he exercises with the Approbation of the whole Court.

John-Frederic Count de Globe, is Grand Marshal, Minister of State, and Knight of the Order of St. Hubert. He is very rich, and has a fine Estate in Bohemia. He was once the Elector's Page, who finding him at the bottom a Man of Integrity and Honour, took care of his Fortune, gave him the best Employments at his Court, and raised him to the Dignity of Count. M. de Globe has been seldom at Manheim for some Years past; which is a Loss both to Court and City, because he liv'd very nobly, and more than all, was very civil to Foreigners[138].

The Baron de Wohlin is Master of the Horse[139]. He is one of those Men in whom we meet with that Candor and Probity so much boasted by our Fathers.

The Count de la Tour and Taxis is Captain of the Life-Guards, Lieutenant-General, and Knight of the Order of St. Hubert. His Carriage seems blunt and proud, yet he is familiar with those that are in his Confidence. He has considerable Credit at Court, owing to his Sister's being so long in favour with the Elector.

Julius Augustus Count de la Marck, Lieutenant-General, Captain of the hundred Swissers, and Knight of St. Hubert, is descended of an illustrious Family in the Empire. He spent part of his Youth in the Service of France, where his eldest Brother is now actually a Lieutenant-General, Colonel of a foreign Regiment, and a Commander of the Order of the Holy Ghost. He has learnt all the French Politeness; his

Behaviour resembles the Man of Quality; his Temper is gay, and he loves good Cheer, Joy and Pleasures.

The Count Egmont de Hatzfeldt Lieutenant-General, Minister of State, and Secretary at War, comes from one of the best Families in the Empire, This Nobleman is extraordinary civil; his House is open to all Persons of Distinction; he lives very nobly, and both his Lady and himself are very fond of entertaining Foreigners. They were both intrusted to conduct to Piedmont the Princess of Sultzbach first Wife to Charles Prince of Piedmont[140], and discharged their Employments in such a manner that they had the general Approbation of the Sardinian Court.

The Barons of Hildesheim and Beveren are both Ministers of State. The former acquired a very great Reputation in the Negotiations that were carry'd on at Heidelberg in 1719, for the Church of the Calvinists which the Elector had a mind shou'd be Catholic. The second has been Envoy to the King of Great Britain. They are both to be valued for their Merit, live very honourably, and make Foreigners welcome.

I could tell you of many other Persons of Birth and Merit employ'd at this Court, but really my Letter would be too tedious. Nevertheless I cannot omit the mention of the Baron d'Obsten, whom you saw at Breslau, after he had quitted the Service of the Czar. He is settled here, but has no Character. He and all his Family are become of our Communion. He has a considerable Pension from the Elector, and is generally very well esteem'd. His Son, who is a Captain, is a young Gentleman of Merit, and his Daughters are young Ladies highly to be esteem'd for their good Behaviour and Politeness.

The Count de Nassau-Weilbourg lives here also. His Birth would engage me to give you an Account of him tho' I were not induc'd to it by the Consideration of his Merit. This Nobleman has an infinite share of it; he is generous, magnificent, genteel, and civil, knowing what Family he is descended from; but knowing it for no other reason than to discharge all the Obligations of it. He is the Ornament of this Court, tho' he is not in the Service of the Elector. His Father was Velt-Marshal, and Commander in Chief of the Palatine Troops during the Reign of the late Elector John William. The Count I am speaking of was Envoy Extraordinary from the Elector to the Court of France during the Minority of Lewis XV. He then went often to the Royal Palace to pay his court to the Regent's Mother, and there it was that I knew him; for that Lady and the whole Court of France had a very great Value for him. That Princess speaking of him one day to me, said she was very glad that he was a Count of Nassau; for indeed, said she, he deserves to bear a great Name[141].

There are amiable People here of both Sexes who are very sociable, so that 'tis a Stranger's own fault if he misses of Amusement here; for such are generally treated very civilly. As for my own part, I have received so many Courtesies from the Elector, and so many Favours from his Court that I shall for ever acknowledge them.

The Nobility maintain a Company of French Comedians who act three times a Week upon a very little Theatre, but both the Townsmen and Foreigners pay. Tho' this Company, of which the Count de

la Marck has the Direction is not the best, yet 'tis a pleasure to go to it for the sake of seeing Company. In the time of the late Princess there were a thousand Pleasures which there are not now, so that her Death is still lamented.

The Elector's Revenues are reckon'd at two Millions of Crowns. You may rate them more or less, 'tis no matter; for my own part, I affirm nothing, being not willing to imitate the Marquis de Breton-Villiers, who in his Memoirs of the Regency values the Revenues of all the Princes of the Universe with as much assurance as if he had been Superintendant of every one's Finances. The Elector has about 7 or 8000 Soldiers, exclusive of his Guards. His best Places are Manheim, Juliers, and Dusseldorp. The three Religions tolerated in the Empire have Churches here, and the Jews a large Synagogue. They are very numerous at this Place, and two thirds of the Houses belong to them, as being either built by them, or mortgag'd to 'em. Some of them are very rich, and drive a great Trade with the Jews at Meiz, Frankfort and Amsterdam. 'Tis certain that they do a great injury to the Christian Merchants, and that they are not honester here than elsewhere.

Don't write to me, if you please, before I have sent you my Direction, because I know not whether I shall stay long enough at Frankfort, to which some Affairs call me, to receive your Letters.

Just now we hear of the Death of Pope Benedict XIII. As I never saw a Conclave, and am in the Humour of Travelling, I have an inclination to take a tour to Rome. I shall not resolve on it till I come to Frankfort. Which way soever I go you shall be inform'd, and I will not fail to desire your Commands. Mean time I am always very sincerely, &c.