LETTER XXXVI.
SIR,Turin, Nov. 28, 1731.
The Road hither from Genoa is very bad at this time of the Year. During the first two Post-Stages I cross’d one River no less than thirty-two times, and saw a great many fine Houses on the Banks of it; for tho’ the Neighbourhood of Genoa is very mountainous, ’tis very pleasant, all the Hills being covered with Chesnuts, and other Fruit-Trees. After I had travell’d about four Post-Stages, I enter’d on the Plain which brought me to Turin. This is certainly one of the finest Countries in the World, and wants nothing but Causeys.
The most considerable City that I met with in my Road, was Alexandria de la Paille, which stands on the River Tanaro. ’Tis a great Town, but not very populous. It formerly depended on the Milanese, and was yielded by the Emperor to the King of Sardinia, who keeps a good Garison in it, and has set Men at Work to repair the Fortifications, which had really been very much neglected. This City is also of Note for its Fairs, which are the most considerable in Italy.
I afterwards came to Asti, where I found nothing good but an Inn, which indeed is one of the best of Italy, From thence I went and lay at Quieri, a great Town in Piedmont, ill built,
but full of People of Quality, and situate in a Plain, which is perfectly beautiful; but I was in so much Haste to get to Turin, that I did not stay there. I pass’d by the Foot of a Hill, on which stands the Castle of Montcallier, a Royal Palace built by her late Royal Highness, the Mother of King Victor Amedeus. The Apartments are large and magnificent, and command one of the finest Prospects in the World; but the Gardens belonging to it are no more worth a Traveller’s View, than the Village of Montcallier itself.
At some Distance from this Place I cross’d the Po over a wooden Bridge, and came thro’ a pleasant Avenue to Turin, the Capital of Piedmont, and the ordinary Residence of the Dukes of Savoy. Those Princes chose also to make it the Seat of the Chamber of Accompts, and of the Senate, which is what they call in France the Parlement; and they have rendered it one of the strongest and finest Cities of Italy, exclusive of its charming Situation. ’Tis divided into two Parts, the old and the new City, with Bastions and Outworks, well fac’d, and a Citadel very regularly fortify’d. It stands eighteen Miles from the Alps, in a Plain which has the Po on one Side, and the Duero on the other.
This City will always be remember’d for the Siege which it sustained in 1704, when the Marshal and Count Daun, Governor of Milan, commanded here, by the Emperor’s Permission, at the Request of the Duke of Savoy. He defended the Place against the Duke of Orleans, the Grandson of France, and gave Time to Prince Eugene of Savoy to come to its Relief, and oblige the Enemy to raise the Siege. The French pretend, that all this was done by Order from Court; and that the Duchess of Burgundy, the Daughter
of King Victor Amedeus, was the Person that prevail’d on Lewis XIV. to consent to the raising of the said Siege. As I am not privy to what pass’d at that Time in the Cabinet of the King of France, this is an Anecdote, which I can neither affirm nor deny; but as the Belief of what the French give out upon this Head is not an Article of Faith, I hope they will not be angry, if I do not give Credit to Rumours, so much to the Dishonour of the greatest King that ever they had: For how can it be imagin’d, that if Lewis XIV, had really a Desire, that his Army should decamp from before Turin, he would have chose to have subjected that Army to the Hazard of being obliged to fight against his Will and his Orders, and by that Means to have expos’d the Honour of his Nephew, the Glory of his Arms, and the Lives of a great many brave Men, which were lost in that Defeat? Surely, a Retreat concerted in the Cabinet would have been made in better Order, and would not have had the Appearance of a Flight. But the French have this Notion: They were never routed, but ’twas either because it pleased the Court that they should be routed, or because of some Jealousy betwixt their Generals. They lost the Battle of Hochstet, for want of a right Understanding betwixt the Elector of Bavaria, and the Marshal de Tallard; that of Ramillies, because the Marshal de Villeroy would not let the Elector of Bavaria have the Honour of beating us; that of Audenarde, because the Duke of Vendosme’s receiving that Shock, was a real Satisfaction to the Duke of Burgundy, the Presumptive Heir of the Throne: And M. de la Motte, too, suffered himself to be beaten near Wynendale, only in Complaisance to the Duke of Burgundy, who was apprehensive that he should not be able to persuade the King his Grandfather
to the Peace, which he had very much at Heart, if Lisle was not taken by the Allies, which City could not have been mastered, but by letting the Convoy pass, which M. de la Motte had attack’d. The Passage of the Scheld, the raising of the Siege of Brussels, the Surrender of Ghent, without strikeing a Blow; all this was done also by Order of the Duke of Burgundy, who was for a Peace upon any Terms, and cou’d not obtain it without sacrificing both the Army and Glory of the King his Grandfather. But to speak the Truth, were all the Marshals of France to tell me the same Story, they would find me as great an Unbeliever as St. Thomas, and wou’d never prevail with me to be guilty of such an Insult upon the Memory of the Duke of Burgundy, the wisest Prince of his Time, as to believe that he had the Honour of his Country, and the Interests of his Family so little at Heart.
Nothing can be more regular than that Part of Turin, which is called the new City. The Houses are of Brick, and three Stories high. The Streets are wide, strait, and well-pav’d. It has fine Churches, particularly the Metropolis, or Chapel of the Holy Handkerchief, which is also the Royal Chapel, and may be reckon’d the Master-piece of Architecture. ’Tis in the Form of an Octogon Dome, all fac’d, not excepting the Roof, with black Marble. The Altar is in the Middle of the Dome. There is preserved the precious Relique of our Lord’s Handkerchief, of which there’s the like in St. Peter’s Church at Rome, and at Besançon. I had been told, that I should be able to distinguish the very Print of the Face in this Handkerchief, and a Part of our Saviour’s Body; but I was not so happy as to discern any thing like it.
The King’s Palace makes no great Appearance, nor indeed is it quite finish’d; nevertheless,
the Apartments are well contriv’d; The Furniture is rich, and there are excellent Pictures, and magnificent Cielings. There are Gardens in this Palace, which are artfully dispos’d in the Manner of Fortifications, according to beautiful Plans; but setting this aside, they are not much adorn’d.
The finest, and the completest Thing at Turin, and perhaps in Europe, in the modern Architecture, is the Front of the Palace of the late Madame Royale, the King’s Grandmother. This Palace is contiguous to the King’s Palace, and communicates with it by a Gallery. ’Twas a very old Building, and made a poor Appearance; but Madame Royale spar’d no Cost, either in Gilding or Painting, to set off the Inside. When this was done, it happened that the Stair-case was inconvenient; upon which her Royal Highness, who was in every Thing magnificent, undertook to build one; and to this is owing the stately Front, of which I here make mention. This Princess consulted with all the skilful Architects in Italy, and fix’d upon the Plans, which to her appear’d the most grand and beautiful. Before this Stair-case was built, they us’d to say that Madame Royale’s Palace was a House without a Stair-case; and now they say ’tis a Stair-case without a House; and really, the Stair-case wou’d become the Louvre, it being by much too big for the Building it belongs to.
I cou’d not get a Sight of the Castle of the Venerie, three Leagues from Turin; for while King Victor is a Prisoner there, no body is suffer’d to go near it. You must, no doubt, have heard of that Prince’s being under an Arrest; but I question whether you have been inform’d of what gave Occasion to that Affair, and of the Manner of his being taken into Custody. What I have heard of it from People of Credit, is as follows.
King Victor Amedeus, after the Death of the Queen his Wife, who was Daughter of Philip of France, the late Duke of Orleans, by Henrietta of England, fell in Love with the Marchioness of[24] St. Sebastian, Lady of Honour to the Princess of Piedmont, now Queen of Sardinia. The Virtue of Madame de St. Sebastian, and the King’s Devotion for her, induc’d him to marry this Favourite. But not thinking it honourable for a King to place a Subject on his Throne, he took a Resolution to resign his Crown, before he contracted so unequal a[25]Match. He imparted his Design to Madame de St. Sebastian, who did all she cou’d to prevail with Victor to continue upon the Throne; but finding he was resolv’d not to make her a Queen, she consented to his Abdication, still thinking herself highly honour’d to become the Wife of a Prince, who had worn a Crown. King Victor consulted with his chief Favourites about his Abdication, who all advis’d him not to leave the Throne. His Son King
Charles conjur’d him to keep Possession of it. I protest to your Majesty, said this Prince, I never once indulged a Wish to govern, and think myself exceeding happy to be your First Subject. But all his Remonstrances were of no Effect; and the 5th of September, 1730, was fix’d for the Day of Abdication. Upon that Day, all the chief Persons in the Government, and the Senate, met in the great Hall of the[26]Palace. There the King appear’d without any Mark of Royalty, accompany’d by the Prince of Piedmont, and declar’d to the Assembly, that he was resolv’d to yield the Throne to his Son; and that from that Moment he exempted them, as he did all his Subjects, from the Oath of Allegiance they had taken to him. He exhorted them, at the same time, to acknowledge his Son Charles, Prince of Piedmont, for their King; and desir’d them to be as Loyal to their new Sovereign, as they had been to him. Then the Act of Abdication was read with a loud Voice, by the Marquis del Borgo, Secretary of State, and Charles was recogniz’d for King.
After the Ceremony was over, King Victor, with the Marchioness of St. Sebastian, whom he had married, on Condition[27] that she shou’d wear no other Title, set out for Chamberry, which he had chose for the Place of his Retirement. But
scarce a Month was past, ere he began to repent of having given the Reins out of his Hands, though the King his Son behaved as dutifully to him, as if he had been still his Subject. When King Victor resign’d, he advis’d his Son to cause the Lands of the Nobility and Gentry to be survey’d, and to impose a Tax on them, in Proportion to the Number of Acres. This Scheme, tho’ it had a View to the Increase of the King’s Revenues, tended to the Ruin of the Nobility; for which Reason, Charles when he came to the Crown, did not think proper to put it in Execution. Victor being incensed at it, wrote about it to his Son, rather in the Style of his Lord and Master, than his Father; and perceiving that Charles was still averse to his Counsel, he entertained a Thought of reascending the Throne[28]. To this End, he secretly felt the Pulse of the People, and found them all faithful Subjects to Charles: Yet all this did not discourage him; he relied upon the Troops, which he knew had an Esteem for him, and he thought they wou’d also be his Friends; for most of the Officers having been preferr’d by him, he did not doubt but they were still attach’d to him, and he flatter’d himself with their Concurrence to his Designs. He wrote to the Marshal Rhebinder, in general Terms indeed; but in a Style that was very soothing and tempting. This General, who was Commander
in Chief of the Forces, being sensible of what Consequence it was to deprive King Victor of the least Hopes of reascending the Throne, returned him Answer, that he owned he was obliged to him for his Estate, Honours, and every Thing: ‘Your Majesty, said the Marshal in his Letter, has made me all that I am. I am under no Obligation to King Charles; but my Engagements to your Majesty are inexpressible; tho’ of all the Favours which you have heap’d upon me, the Honour of your Esteem was always to me the dearest. Give me leave therefore, Sir, to preserve that Esteem, which I presume to say, I have acquir’d by the Blood I have spilt for your Service; whereas, Sir, I shou’d forfeit it, were I so unhappy as to be guilty of Perjury to the King whom you have given me, and to whom you have injoined me Obedience. I shall be as true to him as I was to your Majesty, and will shed the last Drop of my Blood to maintain him on the Throne. I am however always ready to give your Majesty the most sincere Marks of my Respect for your Person, being fully persuaded, Sir, that your Majesty will lay no Commands on me, but such as are agreeable to that Justice, which ever accompanied all your Actions, &c.’
This Answer was not sufficient to cool King Victor’s Ambition to resume the Government. He wrote a second time to the Marshal de Rhebinder, and to other General Officers. He assumed an imperious Style, and signify’d, that he knew how to punish those that refus’d to obey him. All these Letters were carried to King Charles, who being concerned to see his Father so uneasy, said to those who brought them, What wou’d you have me do? He is my Father, I depend upon your Fidelity and resign myself to Providence.
The King was still in Hopes, that he shou’d be able to make Victor easy, and was willing to have an Interview with him; and for that Purpose he went with his Queen to Evian, and from thence to Chamberry, where Charles paid his Father a Visit, but found him very much out of Temper. The Prince however bore all with the Dutifulness of a Son. But when he took leave of Victor, he paid a Visit to Madame de St. Sebastian, with whom he had a long Conference. He desir’d this Lady to pacify King Victor, and to dissuade him from concerning himself any farther with State Affairs. He hath made me King, said Charles, and King I will be. You can do any thing with him; therefore make him easy. If he does not like this, let him choose any other Castle or Place in my Dominions that he likes better, of which he shall have the intire Disposal. They say Charles dropt a Hint in this Conversation, that he was inclin’d to yield his Father a Province in Sovereignty; however, he promis’d great Advantages to Madame de St. Sebastian, not only for herself, but for the Son that she had by her former Marriage, and for her Brothers. This Lady promis’d the King all that he desir’d, but kept her Word very ill; for her Ambition to be Queen prompted her to make King Victor every Day more and more uneasy.
Victor after this observed no Measures, and said publicly, that he would reascend the Throne. To this End, he thought it necessary for him to be nearer Turin. He therefore wrote to the King his Son, that the Air of Chamberry was bad for his Health, and desir’d him to let him go and reside at the Castle of Montcallier. Charles was return’d to Turin when he receiv’d this Letter; but before he had Time to answer it, he understood that the King his Father, and Madame de St. Sebastian, were already come to Montcallier.
He was not at all sorry for it, because, as he knew King Victor’s Designs, he cou’d better observe his Motions, when so near him: And King Victor, on his Part, was glad that he was at Montcallier, in Hopes that the Neighbourhood of Turin might give him a better Opportunity of tampering with the Garison, and the commanding Officer of the Place. He did all that was in his Power to gain them, and gave such publick[29] Proofs of his Intention to reascend the Throne, that Charles’s Ministers[30], fearing lest he should call in Foreigners to his Assistance, unanimously advis’d the King to confine him. The young Prince exclaim’d several times against this Proposition. What! said he, make my Father a Prisoner! No, I can never consent to that: And indeed, it was a long time ere he cou’d agree to it; but at length he was prevail’d on by the strenuous Solicitations of his Council; tho’, when he sign’d the Order for confining him, his Hand shook to such a Degree, that the Secretary of State was obliged to guide it.
The Count de la Perouse, Lieutenant-General of his Forces, was charged with the Execution of the Warrant for arresting King Victor, and had a Detachment given him of three thousand Men, drawn out of the Garisons of Turin, and other neighbouring Places, to support him at the Undertaking. They all march’d out at the same
Hour from their Quarters, without knowing whither they were to go; and at Two o’Clock next Morning they all came to the Place appointed at Montcallier. The Count de la Perouse, attended by the Chevalier de Solare, Lieutenant Colonel of the Guards, at the Head of a Detachment of Grenadiers, with their Bayonets screw’d to their Musquets, went up to the great Stair-case of the Palace, which led to King Victor’s Apartment, while the Marquis d’Ormea, Secretary of State, who carry’d the Order sign’d by King Charles, secur’d the Back-stairs with another Detachment of the Grenadiers. M. de la Perouse, finding the Apartment shut, broke open the Door; and, after seizing a Page in waiting, that was asleep in the first Anti-chamber, he made his Way farther, and forc’d open all the Doors, till he came to the Chamber where the King was a-bed with Madame de St. Sebastian. This Lady, hearing a Noise, arose immediately, and having only Time to slip on a Night-gown, ran to the Door; when seeing so many arm’d Men, she cry’d out, Oh! Sir, we are betray’d! They gave her no Time to say more; but two Officers carry’d her into the next Chamber, where they caus’d her to be dress’d, and afterwards conducted her to Ceve, a Fortress of Piedmont.
Neither the Outcry of Madame de St. Sebastian, nor all the Noise that was made, had awak’d King Victor, who always slept sound. The Chevalier de Solare seiz’d the King’s Sword, which he saw lying on a Table; and the Count de la Perouse went to the Bed-side, and open’d the Curtains. Upon that, the King started out of his Sleep, and ask’d what was the Matter. The Count de la Perouse said to him, That he had Orders from the King to arrest him. What King do you mean? said Victor: ’Tis I that am your King and Master; you ought to acknowledge no other. Your Majesty has been so, reply’d
the Count, but you are so no longer; and since it has pleas’d you to give us King Charles for our Lord and Master, and to command us to obey him, I hope you yourself will set us an Example of such Obedience. The King was in a violent Passion, threaten’d the Officers, and refus’d to rise. The Chevalier de Solare coming too near the Bed, the King punched him with his Elbow in the Belly, and commanded him in Wrath to withdraw. As he still continued obstinate in his Refusal to rise, the Officers lifted him. up, and dress’d him. The King was heard to say, in the mean time, that he only wish’d to sit two Hours on the Throne, that he might hang up the Rascals that had misled his Son; and he nam’d the principal Lords of the Court.
As soon as he was dress’d, the Officers surrounded him, and conducted him down the great Stair-case to his Coach, that waited for him in the Yard. The King, seeing the Anti-chamber full of Grenadiers, seem’d surpriz’d at it; and the Soldiers, who as yet knew not on what Errand they were sent, seem’d no less surpriz’d, when they saw their old King was to be carry’d off a Prisoner. What! Our King! said they softly to each other, What has he done? What is the Matter? The Count de la Perouse, fearing a Mutiny, call’d out Silence, in the King’s Name, on Pain of Death. The old King found drawn-up in the Court-yard a Regiment of Dragoons, which he had always valu’d above the rest of his Troops. The Sight of it affected him, and he wou’d have spoke to it; but no Time was allow’d him, and he was oblig’d to go into the Coach. The Count de la Perouse, and the Chevalier de Solare, ask’d his Leave to sit with him; but the King answer’d, That he would not suffer it: So they mounted their Horses, rode by the Sides of the Coach, which was surrounded by the Soldiers, and conducted him to Rivoli. I
had almost forgot to tell you, that when he went from Montcallier, he ask’d for three Things; his Wife, his Papers, and his Snuff-Box, the last of which was all he obtain’d.
The Day after he came to Rivoli, as they were clapping iron Bars, and double Shutters, to the Windows of his Apartment, the King ask’d the Glazier what he was going to do! I am going, said the Man, to put on double Shutters to your Windows that you mayn’t catch Cold this Winter. How now, Varlet! said the King, Do you think I shall spend all the Winter here? Ah! by my Faith, reply’d the Glazier, you will pass this winter here, and I believe many more.
This Prince is attended with Care, and treated with all the Respect due to his Person; and they say, he begins to be sedate. The Chevalier de Solare, and two Captains of the Guards, are set over him, with whom he sometimes plays at Billiards. They have Orders to treat him with all manner of Respect; but to give no Answer to any of his Complaints[31].
In the whole Course of this Affair, ’tis fortunate for King Charles, that not one of his Subjects has fail’d in his Allegiance to him; he has not been oblig’d to stain his Government by any bloody Execution; nor has he caus’d above three Persons to be apprehended, among whom were King Victor’s two Physicians, that carried his Letters; but they are lately set at Liberty, and a good Understanding is like to be quickly restored between the father and the Son.
They say, that Madame de St. Sebastian is fallen into a deep Melancholy; and that she lives intirely upon Broth, which is of her own making. After her Disgrace, her Son, who was an Ensign in the Guards, was no longer seen at Court. The young
King missing him, ordered the Marquis d’Ormea, Minister and Secretary of State, to acquaint him, that he might come to Court, and continue in his Employment; and that his Majesty assured him he did not intend that he should be a Sufferer for any Crime whatsoever, which Madame de St. Sebastian had committed, and that he would take Care of his Fortune.
The Piedmontese are charm’d with their new King, and indeed, he is a Prince that has the Qualities of a good Monarch: He is humane, compassionate, generous and beneficent. He is a little under Size in Stature, but very well shaped, dances well, loves Pleasures, and particularly Hunting. Without Flattery, one may say, he is endowed with a great many Virtues; and that if he has Faults, ’tis only owing to the Human Nature, with which intire Perfection is incompatible.
The Queen[32] is of the Family of Hesse Rhinfels. She is tall and slender; her Air is both majestic and modest; she is fair, and has a very fine Complexion, is a Princess of solid Piety, charitable to the Poor, and ready to do Good to all Mankind, but particularly to her Family. She is the Mother of two lovely[33] Princes, and a Princess, and seems very attentive to give them an Education suitable to their Birth.
The Ceremonial of this Court is pretty much the same with that which is observed at the Court of France, The King and Queen always eat together, and permit none to be Spectators but the Officers of their Houshold. The Ladies must not come to the Palace, without being in the Court Dress, the Queen alone wearing a Mantua. Her Majesty has six Ladies of Honour to attend her,
who must be all Wives, and as many Maids of Honour. She has a Drawing-Room every Night, when the Queen is seated in an Arm-chair, the young Princess of Carignan, and the Queen’s youngest Sister, sitting on Folding-chairs, two Rows off, by the Side of the Queen’s Chair; and all the Ladies stand, with the Gentlemen behind them. This Drawing-Room holds for about an Hour, when the Queen rises, and, saluting the Princesses and Ladies, retires. After this, all the Nobility repair to some House where there is an Assembly. The gayest of all is held at the House of the Marchioness de Prie, whose Husband was Lieutenant Governor of the Netherlands, who often gives a Ball, at which the King is sometimes present.
There’s an Air of Ease and Freedom in this City, which is not to be enjoy’d in all Italy besides; and the Piedmontese don’t think themselves Italians; so that I am often ask’d, Whether I came last from Italy? Or, Whether I am going to it? I could like to live in this City better than in any other. I think this Mixture of the French Manners with the Italians is perfectly agreeable and just. The People here live well. There are several Noblemen that keep a good Table, and are very civil to Strangers. For this, the Marshal de la Rhebinder is particularly noted. This General is a Native of Livonia: He commanded the Elector Palatine’s Troops in Italy, and then went into the Service of the Duke of Savoy, in Quality of Lieutenant General, and Colonel of a foreign Regiment of Foot. King Victor created him a Velt-Marshal, and he is actually Commander in Chief of the King of Sardinia’s Troops.
The Marquis d’Ormea is the Chief or President of the Council, first Secretary of State, and Prime Minister. He was heretofore in the Confidence of King Victor. That Prince had sent him to Rome,
where the Marquis d’Ormea obtained great Advantages of Pope Benedict XIII. for the King his Master; particularly the Nomination to all Benefices. This Minister was recall’d in the first Year of the Pontificate of Clement XII. when his Holiness was so inclement as to revoke all that his Predecessor had granted. Not long before King Victor’s Abdication he returned to Turin. King Charles does nothing without him. He is a Gentleman of Good-nature, an Enemy to Subterfuges, and is sacred to his Promises. I knew him at Rome, and have the Honour of seeing him here as often as the Multiplicity of his Affairs will permit him to receive my Visits. Every body here applauds and speaks well of him, which is not always the good Fortune of People elsewhere, that are in Places: This Minister has a Brother a[34]Cardinal, and an only Son, who is a very lovely Youth, and has a natural Inclination to tread hereafter in the Steps of his Father.
The Youth here don’t seem to be so hair-brain’d as they are elsewhere: I don’t know whether they are really wiser, but however they seem to be so in Public. Were I to advise a Father of a Family, it should be to send his Children to the University here, than which I question whether there’s a better in Europe, as well with regard to the Masters of the Exercises, as to the Care taken of the Youth, who are boarded, dieted and instructed in all the Sciences and Exercises, and divided into two Classes; of which the one only studies the Law, and therefore does not pay so much as the other; but they must be all Gentlemen. They are only allow’d to go abroad on certain Days of the Week; but then they may appear at Court, and go where they please, except to Houses of Gaming.
The Out-parts of Turin are infinitely pleasant. The Country is adorned with a great many pretty Cassines or Pleasure-Houses, which are only separated by Meadows, that are constantly water’d by a Number of little Brooks. I take the Air every Day upon the Esplanade, between the City and the Citadel, where there are fine Walks, and one often meets with very pretty Women. The Blood here is perfectly good, and all the Piedmontese Ladies have a great deal of Life and Spirit. I am very sorry to leave them, but the Misfortune is unavoidable, and Haste presses me to be gone. I propose to be in ten or twelve Days at Lyons, if I don’t stay at Chamberry; but this you will know by my next Letter. Don’t fail to write to me at Paris, and believe me to be, &c.
