LETTER XXXVII.
SIR,Lyons, March 2, 1732.
Tho’ I had pass’d Mount Cenis twice before, and travers’d Savoy, yet I thought the Passage of the Alps as disagreeable as ever; and am heartily glad to find myself in this City, which is better than all Savoy put together.
From Turin I went and lay at la Novalaise. I first pass’d by the Castle of Rivoli, which stands on an Eminence, and to which there’s an Avenue from Turin in a strait Line of three Leagues in Length. Then I travell’d thro’ Susa, which, by the way, is a very dirty Town, upon the Banks
of a River form’d by Torrents from the neighbouring Mountains, which seem, as it were, to bury Susa alive. This City, and the Valley in which ’tis built, are commanded by the Fort de la Brunette, an important Place, which King Victor Amedeus caus’d to be erected for the Defence of Piedmont. Nature and Art have alike contributed to fortify it. ’Tis provided with a good Garison, and all Necessaries to sustain a Siege; and if it had been built in the Time of Lewis XIII. I doubt whether that King, and his Minister the Cardinal de Richelieu, would so easily have passed the Mountains.
La Novalaise is a sorry Town, with a wretched Inn, which is the more disagreeable, because Strangers are oblig’d to stop there to unload their Effects, and put them on the Backs of Mules to carry them to the other Side of the Mountain. I was carried over it in a matted Elbow-chair by four Men, who relieved one another at proper Distances, and often took me upon their Shoulders; so that if I had been ever so little given to Chimeras, I should have fansied myself a Pope.
At the Top of the Mountain is a[35]Lake, and also an Hospital, which I thought made but a poor Appearance. Pilgrims are there entertain’d, and other Foot Passengers, for three Days; and there are two Priests to receive the Passengers, and to serve the Church. This is a very laudable Foundation in a sorry wretched Country, where, notwithstanding this Provision, People are often found dead in the Snow. Those poor Reverends may boast, that they live in one of the saddest Places in the World, their greatest Amusement for nine Months in the Year, being to see the Snow
fall, and to blow their Fingers. The Descent from Mount Cenis on the Side of Savoy is by much the[36] easiest, where in the Winter-time People have the Pleasure of rolling down in a Sled, which the Country People call se faire ramasser. This Way of travelling is very commodious and diverting, and so swift, that an Arrow from a Cross-bow does not fly faster. I knew an English Gentleman that stay’d a Week together at Lanebourg, and who, after he had come down this Mountain, went up again and again, purely for the Pleasure of se faire ramasser.
Lanebourg and its Inn are no better than La Novalaise; but one is oblig’d to stop again here for fresh Horses. Those who don’t travel Post, and make use of the Carriers of Turin or Chamberry, are seldom put to this Trouble, because most of these People have Pack-horses on both Sides the Mountain, and have nothing to do but to send their Baggage away, which is very quickly loaded. From Lanebourg to Chamberry all the Road is bury’d, as it were, by Rocks and Mountains, and frightful Precipices: There are Rails indeed, but not strong enough to stop a Carriage: I saw a Cart drawn by four Horses tumble down one of those Precipices, by which the Horses were kill’d, and the Cart with its whole Lading, which consisted of Porcelain and Glass Wares belonging to the Prince of Carignan, broke in a thousand Pieces: The Carrier, tho’ he was not at all to blame, drew out his Knife in order to stab himself, and wou’d actually have done it, if my Postilion and other People had not hinder’d him.
I pass’d thro’ several little Towns in my Way hither, that are not worth mentioning; St. John de Maurienne is the chief, because ’tis the See
of a Bishop, and the Capital of a Province of that Name; ’tis a very antient County, and the first Inheritance of the Princes of Savoy; this Valley extends from the Alps to the River of Isere on one Side, and from the Tarentaise to the Dauphinois.
Chamberry, the Capital City of Savoy, is not a Town where you must expect sumptuous Fabrics, the Houses there making but a mean Figure, yet the Place is not for that Reason one jot the less agreeable; ’tis situate on the Banks of the River Orbanno in a very little Plain encompass’d with Hills, where there are charming Walks, and special Company. There’s a great Number of Nobility, who indeed are not the most money’d Men; yet they make good Entertainments, and keep a great deal of Company. The Ladies are beautiful, and the Gentlemen handsome, the common People good-natur’d and civil, and the Savoyards in general are a very good Sort of People. They are accus’d of being too thrifty, but perhaps ’tis more out of Necessity than Inclination; for when a Man is oblig’d to support the Dignity of a Noble or Gentleman, and has but a small Fortune, he is forc’d to be a good Husband whether he will or no.
At the Distance of five Leagues from Chamberry I descended a high Mountain, in which I perceiv’d a Road had been cut for half a League. I saw by a Latin Inscription at the Foot of the Mountain, which I had not Time to copy, that the Romans formerly undertook to make this Road; but, judging it impossible, gave it over; yet Charles Emanuel II. for the Good of his Subjects, and the Public in general, undertook it; and had the Glory to carry it to a Conclusion, which was the most useful and magnificent Thing that a great Sovereign could do: But I question whether he wou’d have accomplish’d it, if, like the Romans, he had
not made use of Gunpowder. There was a Necessity for the blowing up of prodigious high Rocks for establishing the Bed of the Causey, which is fenc’d on both Sides by Rocks cut out in Form of Walls, that are as high as the Top of the Mountain. This hollow Way is subject to great Mists; when I pass’d, it was the finest Weather in the World on the Plain; but when I enter’d the Valley, I found a Mist so thick, that I could not see my Postilion.
This Mist brought me to the Town of Echelles, which is at the Foot of the Mountain at the Entrance of a Plain that leads to Lyons. I also pass’d to Pont de Bonvoisin, a little Town which is shar’d betwixt the Kings of France and Sardinia. Both these Princes have their Custom-houses here, the Officers of which are not very tractable. The King of France keeps a Commandant, and two free Companies, in that Part of Bonvoisin, which belongs to him. This is the first Town of Dauphiny, which is not one of the least Provinces in the Kingdom. It was granted to Philip de Valois by Humbert de la Tour, the last Sovereign Prince of Dauphiny, who bore the Title of Dauphin of the Viennois. History says, that Humbert, finding himself childless, made a Grant of his Principality to the King of France, and chose a Monastic Life at Lyons in the Order of St. Dominic, in the Rules of which he liv’d with the very great Esteem of good Men. He was afterwards elected Prior of this Convent, and nominated Patriarch of Alexandria. Some say, that having been the innocent Author of the Death of his only Son, his deep Concern for this Accident made him resolve to embrace the Monastic Life; but others pretend, that having a secret Grudge against the Duke of Savoy, whom he was too weak to cope with, he made an Agreement with the King of France, on purpose that the Duke
might have a Neighbour powerful enough not only to oppose, but to reduce him to Reason. But if this be true, it must be own’d to be a sad Sort of Revenge for a Prince to strip himself of a Sovereignty, purely to injure his Neighbour. I fansy there are few Princes wou’d be of the Humour to take such a Revenge. The same Humbert requir’d, that the eldest Son of France shou’d be styl’d the Dauphin, which was granted him, and has been observ’d ever since. The Duke of Orleans, the first Prince of the Blood of France, is Governor of Dauphiny. This Province has a Parliament, which is held at Grenoble. The antient Dauphins resided at Vienne, which is an Archbishoprick. ’Twas to the Neighbourhood of this City, that Herod and Pilate, our Saviour’s Judges, were banish’d.
Lyons is so considerable a City, that the French commonly say, Next to Paris, Lyons[37]. The Sâon runs thro’ this City, and the Rhone washes its Walls;
’tis a large opulent City, for the Inhabitants are industrious, laborious, and given to Trading. There’s not a Town in France, if in the whole World, where they make such fine Stuffs. They endeavour to imitate them at Turin, in Holland, and elsewhere, but they can’t come up to them. The City of Lyons is the See of an Archbishop, who is at present M. de Rochebonne, and therein succeeded the late M. de Villeroi, Son to the late Marshal of that Name, who was Lewis the XVth’s Governor. The Villeroi Family has been for a long time in Possession of the Government of Lyons, and the chief Dignities of its Province. The late Marshal obtain’d the Government of Lyons and the Lyonnois from King Lewis XIV. who also granted him the Reversion of the said Government for his eldest Son, the Archbishoprick for his second Son, and the Abbey of St. Peter in Lyons for his Daughter. The Duke of Orleans, when Regent of the Kingdom, conferred on him moreover the Reversion of the Government of Lyons for his Grandsons the Duke de Retz, and the Marquis d’Alincourt, and nominated the latter Lieutenant-General of the Province. Tho’ Authority generally renders those hated who are vested with it, yet the Gentlemen of the Name of Villeroi have ever escap’d that Fate; ’tis true they have always acted with very great Moderation, and are beneficent, well-bred, civil and generous, so that they are mightily belov’d in Lyons, where the late Marshal was as much respected as the King himself; for he procur’d great Advantages for the Province, and for the City in particular.
They tell a very good Story concerning the Admission of the first Villeroi to the Archiepiscopal Dignity of this City. The Chapter of Lyons is one of the most haughty in all Christendom, and ’tis not without Reason; for it is founded upon the Blood
of above 20,000 Martyrs, and has always been reputed the Seminary of Popes, Cardinals and Bishops, who have been taken from thence to govern the Church. Nobility is inseparable therein from the Priesthood, and ’tis an Observation made by several Authors, that in the third Century the Chapter consisted of seventy-four Canons, of whom one was the Son of an Emperor, nine the Sons of Kings, fourteen the Sons of Dukes, thirty the Sons of Counts, and twenty were Barons. ’Tis no wonder therefore, that the Counts of Lyons, for they are not called Canons, made a Scruple to admit for their Archbishop Camillus de la Neuville, who was not of their Body, and whom King Lewis XIV. had nominated to this Archbishoprick. Neuville is known to be the Name of the Family of Villeroi. The Grandfather of this Prelate was the first of the Family that was of any Eminence; he had been Treasurer of the War-Office, and Prevôt des Marchands of the City of Paris; his Grandfather Nicolas de la Neuville had been Secretary of State, and his Father Charles de la Neuville was the first of the Family who had a Title of Honour, which was that of Marquis d’Alincourt, Sieur de Villeroi, an Estate which Peter le Gendre Treasurer of France, had given to his Grandfather. The Marquis d’Alincourt was Governor of Lyons and the Lyonnois, and dying in the Service of the King, as Ambassador at Rome, his Majesty gave his Son the Archbishoprick of Lyons, when it became vacant. The Chapter refus’d to admit him, because he was not of a suitable Rank, nor a Member of their Body; but the King found a way to make himself obey’d, and when the Archbishop harangu’d the Chapter, he took these Words of the Psalmist for his Text, The Stone which the Builders had rejected, is become the head Stone of the Corner. The Discourse he made was, they say, as insulting to the Chapter as one
would expect from the Choice of the Text. The Dean, whose ready Wit was applauded, made no other Answer to the Archbishop, than by taking the next Verse to that which the Prelate had chose, viz. This is the Lord’s (the King’s) Doing, it is marvellous in our Eyes. Notwithstanding this, the new Archbishop found means to become both the Spiritual and Temporal Governor of this City; for he was made Lieutenant-General in the Government of the Lyonnois till the Year 1693, when he was succeeded by the Son of the Marshal Villeroi his Nephew, and the latter was succeeded by M. de Rochebonne.
The Person who commands in the Absence of the Duke de Villeroi, Governor of the City, is the Prevôt des Marchands, which is so much the worse for any Foreigner that comes Post; for he is carried to his House, and as strictly examin’d as if he was a Prisoner at the Bar. I was also oblig’d to conform to this Custom; having made me wait a long time in an Anti-chamber, where was a Mixture of People of all Sorts, he appear’d at last with an Air of Importance, which was not natural to him. The Questions he put to me, and the Answers I gave, were very Laconic, and I imagine that there is no Love lost betwixt us.
The Prevôt des Marchands ought to be chang’d every three Years; but when he is acceptable to the Court, he is commonly continued. One wou’d think, that the transitory Grandeur of these Gentlemen shou’d not make them so vain; for when they are turn’d out of their Employment, they make just the same Figure as a Stage-Player, after he has put off the Roman Habit, in which he has represented Mithridates or Pyrrbus.
I have reason to be as much pleas’d with M. Poultier the Intendant, as I have to dislike M. Perichon, the Prevôt des Marchands. I have been to
make him a Visit, which he has return’d; and for these four Days that I have been here I go every Night to his House, where I see the best People of this City, in which there’s good Company, tho’ few Nobility. The Merchants of the first Rank live like petty Sovereigns, and have fine Houses, both in the Town and the Country. If a Foreigner has ever so little Acquaintance here, he cannot fail of being diverted; for the Lyonnois are civil and obliging, and not so much absorb’d in Commerce as to neglect good Manners. They are extraordinary civil to me, and make me very welcome. They delight in Gaming, and are not insensible to Love and the Bottle.
The Comedy here is tolerable, and as much frequented as if it was the best: The Comedians generally make their Fortunes in this City, and if they don’t get an Estate, they can at least shew a fine Wardrobe. At one of these Madams Levees a Captain is oblig’d to yield the Precedence to a Journeyman Shopkeeper. There’s an old Actress here, who forty Years ago was the Darling of the Generality of Lyons: The People of good Taste wish her banish’d from the Theatre, but there’s no persuading this superannuated Beauty not to expose her wither’d Charms: She has the Direction of the Comedy, which brings her in 20,000 Livres a Year. An Attempt has been made to cut off her Pension, which really might be better employ’d; but Mademoiselle Marez, which is the Name of this Matron, remonstrated, that she cou’d not live with less than 35000 Livres a Year, that her Gallant was not able to furnish her the odd 15,000 any longer, that she had no Estate; and that if they touch’d her Pension, she shou’d be undone for ever. Reasons so just as these prevail’d, so that it was not thought fit to push poor Mademoiselle Marez to an Extremity. A Lady of this Province happening
to be in Town, and hearing it reported that Mademoiselle Marez had no less than 15,000 Livres a Year from her Gallant, said smartly, Ah! base Jade! She ought to be burn’d; She takes the Bread out of the Mouths of above fifteen honest Wives.
I often take the Air here in the Square of Belle-Cour, or Lewis le Grand, where I am sure to meet with good Company, there being always a great many very pretty Women, and well dress’d, who act the Ladies of Quality very well. But I mention my Walks at Belle-Cour to you, without acquainting you what Sort of Place it is: ’Tis not pav’d, nor near so wide as it is long: The Houses at both Ends are uniform, and finely decorated; and it were to be wish’d, that those on the two Sides were of the same Proportion. On one Side of this Square there’s a Row of Trees, and in the Middle an Equestrian Statue of Lewis XIV. who is there represented on Horseback on a Pedestal of white Marble; but with no other Inscription than the Name, Lewis XIV. which, after all that can be said, is a great deal of Praise in a little Compass; and the late Marshal de Villeroi, who engag’d the Citizens of Lyons to be at the Expence of it, thought it the greatest and most respectful Compliment that cou’d be paid to the Original.
There’s another Square here call’d les Terreaux, which is worthy of Notice; in the Front of it stands the Town-house, which is a grand and magnificent Edifice of Stone. Lewis XIV. on Horseback is represented in Basso-Relievo over the Gate. On the Left-hand of the Town-house upon the Square of Terreaux stands the Abbey of St. Peter, which is a great Building, and, when finish’d, will not want for Magnificence. I am, &c.
