journal from morzouk to tripoli.
Wednesday, Feb. 9th. Therm. 1°. 30′. below 0.
This morning we prepared to go, and at nine all was ready, and I went to take my farewell of the Sultan, who affected to shed tears, and to feel as much regret at parting with me as if I had been his own son. He very injudiciously reminded me of Mr. Ritchie’s having asked him to cash my bill, declaring his readiness to have done so, and adding a great deal in favour of himself and his willingness to accommodate us on all occasions. For the credit of my deceased friend, I thought proper to contradict him; and without farther ceremony taxed him with telling me an untruth, which at once silenced him on this subject. He then confided to me his intention of going in a few months into Bornou, in which kingdom he proposed establishing himself as Sultan. He begged that I would soon return, to accompany him thither, and teach his people how to fire his three four-pounders. Of course I made him no promises on this head. On my rising to take leave, he said, “Sayd, I hope you will come and see me again; for I have always been your friend, and was Yussuf’s also. I am convinced that you will tell this to your Sultan, and that I have done every thing you required of me.” I at once put a stop to these false assertions, by exclaiming, as before, that he did not speak truth; and waving my hand in token of farewell, took my departure, though certainly not without some apprehension that he would endeavour to detain me. These apprehensions naturally arose from an idea that my return might perhaps be arrested in the same manner as that of Hadge Osman, which will be better explained by the following anecdote. When Mukni first obtained possession of Fezzan, Hadge Osman, the principal Mamluke, had a severe dispute with him, which appeared to have been amicably settled, Mukni laying his hand on his heart, and professing much friendship, as he was in the habit of doing when most disposed to mischief. On leaving Mukni’s presence, however, the unfortunate Mamluke, with his two sons, was hurried to a dungeon, and immediately strangled! That I should have been suffered to quit without interruption the territories of this treacherous man, was a subject of amazement to all; particularly as I had openly espoused the cause of Lizari, and it was known that he intended accompanying me to Tripoli. I succeeded, however, in reaching the house of Lizari, whence we rode away together. We were accompanied by some of the principal people as far as Dgleim, where we arrived at sunset, having journeyed east by north thirteen miles from Morzouk. My Kafflé consisted of Belford and myself, and eight loaded camels, four Arabs, our two Maherries, two sheep, and my horse. Lizari’s was composed of sixteen Khādems, or females, and three male slaves, his own Negress, four loaded camels, a Maherry, which he rode, and two Arabs. We were all in high spirits, our little party rejoicing at the idea of returning home, and Lizari at having escaped the malice of Mukni. Our friends remained with us all night, and we arranged together many plans of future meeting.
February 10th. Thermometer 0°.—At 8.15. our kind friends took leave of us, Yussuf and old Hadge Mahmoud sobbing loudly, and Mohammed looking very gloomy. Poor little Barca, the boy whom Yussuf had lent us for so long a period, appeared quite inconsolable. I wished to have brought him away; but, to my great regret, his master would not sell him to me, though I offered my horse in exchange for him. I really felt much concern at parting from these kind-hearted people, who had, to the best of their abilities, often befriended us, and to whom we owed so many and weighty obligations. The day was fine, our camels good, and we set out at a brisk pace. The Shreef Sadig, who had been encamped at a little distance from us, now became our messmate. His Kafflé consisted of four girls, three men, four camels, and three Arabs. Lizari and myself joined our stock, which Rahmata his Negress, who was an excellent cook, made into a nice mess for us every night.
Had I trusted to Mukni’s professions, I should have been in some danger of starving on my road homeward. He told me repeatedly not to think of preparing food for my journey, as he had commanded his slaves to make for me cusscussou, flour, and dried meat. He also assured me, that on the day of my departure, I should receive from him an order on all the towns through which I should pass to supply myself and animals with dates, &c.; but, after all, no one part of these fine promises was fulfilled, which added one more proof to the many I had before received, of Mukni’s falsehood and insincerity.
Our road lay over a desert, without the least sign of a shrub, or any living creature. A strong cold east wind blew with great force, as it met with no impediment, and quickly chopped our lips and skin. The Negroes wore their travelling dresses, which being new and clean, looked very neat. The girls have green or yellow caps, with a large flap on each side; shirts of blue or white cotton, a petticoat or wrapper of the same, and a good warm jercad or barracan. It is to be observed, that masters do not at all times take equal care of their slaves; but that fearing the bad effects of cold weather, the merchants are in winter more attentive to their comfort than at any other season; and this for their own advantage, since it prevents the Negresses from becoming thin and consumptive (which want of clothing would otherwise subject them to be), and makes them bring a better price to their owners. The males are not so carefully attended to, having generally only a long shirt and barracan. Both sexes have sandals of camel’s hide; the girls walk by themselves, and the men follow the camels. At one o’clock they are all watered like cattle, out of large bowls, placed on the ground, from which they kneel and drink. Children are thrown with the baggage on the camels, if unable to walk; but if five or six years of age, the poor little creatures are obliged to trot on all day, even should no stop be made for fourteen or fifteen hours, as I have sometimes witnessed. We passed a Kafflé of about twenty camels from Tripoli, with a chowse of the Bashaw, loaded with corn for Morzouk; they informed us that the Bashaw had sent an army against Augela, and that the plague had ceased at Tunis and Jerba. At four we turned from the road to go to a well, Ghroodwa being considered too long a journey for the slaves: we had travelled until that time north 40° east nineteen miles. At 7.30. we arrived at Neshoua (a Wadey running east-north-east), having cleared north by west seven miles. A well of good water was here, and we lay down amongst the palm bushes. In unloading the camels, Belford’s Maherry took fright, and running on to the desert, his saddle fell off, and the beast lamed himself sadly by striking his toe against it: some Arabs from the neighbourhood seeing us cooking, came and supped with us. The mess of the slaves is provided before that of their masters; it consists of Bazeen, of which each one has a portion about as large as the double fist; and a bowl is filled with grease and pepper, into which they occasionally dip their paste. The daily allowance of food is a quart of dates in the morning, and half a pint of flour made into Bazeen at night. Some masters never allow their slaves to drink after a meal, unless at a watering place. When the meal is finished, they all lie down, the females in one line, the males in another, and are covered over with sacking until morning.
February 12th. Thermometer 30° below 0°.—Water frozen, and the poor Negroes in great distress from the cold. At 8.20. loaded and proceeded along the edge of the Wadey. Belford walked for a time, and his camel appeared much swelled about the foot. Course north 75° east; Wadey about one mile in breadth, bounded on each side by the Desert. At one P.M. we stopped at Ghroodwa, having made twelve miles. Here is a fine Mosque and a tomb (which is kept constantly white-washed) over the grave of the third brother of Sidi Besheer, the Marāboot of whom I have before spoken. I bought a fine sheep for a dollar and a half.
February 12th. Thermometer 2° 30′.—At eight proceeded along the Wadey; at 9.30. arrived at the end of it, and found a well called Bir el Whishki, or well of the palm bushes. We were joined here by a chowse of the Bashaw of Tripoli, who had just come from thence with thirty camels’ load of grain; he said it was reported that the English Consul was coming to meet me at Benioleed. On leaving the well we entered again on a stony desert, and at 6.15. descended a rugged pass called Taneïa, to a plain hemmed in on every side by conical-shaped hills. At 6.40. we stopped for the night, having travelled north 33° east twenty-six miles. A large Kafflé of natives of the Wadey Shiati, وادي شدتي, passed us on their way to Morzouk, with grain, and to compliment the Sultan on his son’s return. We had many Arab games while sitting with the camel-men round our fires; and I now began to be well acquainted with these people, having occasionally been under the necessity of honouring one or two of them with a box on the ear. We were all very merry, and one of my people, Ibrahim el Fetaima, an Arab of Hoon, told us some very amusing stories.
Sunday, 13th of February. Thermometer 3°.—Proceeded at 7.45. along the plain. At nine the hills opened on to a broad flat plain, bounded at about ten miles to the eastward by hills, which were a continuation of those we had passed. At 1.40. arrived at Sebha, having travelled north 33° east fifteen miles. Strong south wind blowing. We found under the walls where we encamped two Kafflés who were awaiting our arrival; one belonging to Hadge Mohammed el Turké, who had twenty-three Negresses and five men slaves; the other belonging to an old lame Turk called Baba Hassein, and consisting of twenty-one females and seven males: they had left Morzouk two days before us. In the evening all the village assembled outside the walls, to carry a bride in procession to her husband’s house. A camel was ornamented with a frame-work, covered over with carpets, shawls, and ostrich feathers; and the bride placed within it on his back. The camel was led by a relation of the bride, preceded by dancing people, music, mounted and dismounted Arabs, who shouted and fired, running backwards and forwards in front of the procession. The bridegroom walked before them, with a fan in his hand, and his fingers dyed with henna, loaded with tawdry clothes, and looking very solemn. The bride was carried round the town and gardens, and in the end conducted to her husband’s house. The village all night resounded with songs, and the shrill voices of the women; and we had several bowls of provisions sent out to us. We found the flies here very tormenting.
| Drawn from Life by G. F. Lyon. | On Stone by D. Dighton. |
Camel conveying a Bride to her Husband.
London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.
C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.
As I have frequently had occasion to mention Shiati, I now take an opportunity of saying that it is a district lying to the westward of Sebha; it is situated in a Wadey, and contains many towns. This Wadey runs east and west, or nearly so; and is divided into Wadey Shirghi, or eastern Wadey, and Wadey el Ghrarbi, or western Wadey.
In Wadey Shirghi the towns are thus situated, beginning from the east. Ashkiddi اشكد, Ghiddi قدّي, Gelwas قلوس, Brak براك, which is two-thirds of a day from Sebha, and ten days from Gharian, is the largest of these towns. Zooiat زويات, Tamzawa طمرعوه, Gusser Sallām قسرسللم, Aggar اقار, Maharouga محاروقه, El Gerda القرد, Taroot طروت, Gootta قوته, Berghen برغن (two of that name), Temissan طمسان, Iddri يدري, which is a large village, and westernmost in the Wadey Shirghi. It is two days from Brak, and eight days from Ghadams.
Another wadey called El Agaal اللقعر runs parallel to the above. It is one day from Sebha, and has the following towns in it: El Abiad اللبياض, El Hamra الحمره, Khalifa خليفه, Bendoobaïa بندباي, Zueïa زويا, Ergābi ارقعبي, Tenāhmi طنامي, Gusser Saad قسر سعد, Gusser Sbaida قسر زبيده, Kharaig خريق. This is all the Wadey Shirghi.
The Wadey Ghrarbi begins from the east at Iddri Fegaige فقيج, Kertibi كرتبي, Garragarra قراقرا, Tuash طواش, Teweewa طويوه, Germa جرما, the ancient capital of Fezzan; Ghraraifi غرّايفي, Oubāri وببعري, seven days from Ghraat, which is about W.S.W. two long days from El Abiad, which is one day from Sebha. This is the Wadey Ghrarbi.
The people in the Wadeys are blacks and mulattoes as in Morzouk, and Arabs live amongst them. The villages contain from thirty to two hundred houses; many, however, are composed of palm huts. The people are very poor, but in the time of the Waled Suleman, who resided much amongst them, they were opulent. In some of the pools of stagnant water in the Wadey Shaiti are found small worms, of about the size of a grain of rice; these are collected in great quantities, and pounded with a little salt in a mortar, until they form a black paste, which is made into balls of about the size of the double fist, and then suffered to dry in the sun. These worms, which are called Dood, form one of the very few luxuries of Fezzan, as the poor people, when they have a mess of flour, mix some of them with the sauce, to their Aseeda. They resemble very bad caviar in taste, and the smell is extremely offensive; but habit and necessity overcome all prejudices in this country, and I soon became very partial to them. Sand is an unavoidable ingredient in this paste, and the natives consider it as more wholesome in consequence. One or two families gain a good subsistence by preparing these worms for the market of Morzouk, and the neighbouring towns.
Monday, Feb. 14th. Therm. 3°.—Another Kafflé joined us from Morzouk, belonging to a native of Tripoli named Khalifa: those I mentioned before, set out this day for Temanhint. Belford’s Maherry was here so lame, that I had him fired all round the foot by Ibrahim, who was now become very useful to us. The manner of firing camels is by a very thin red hot iron, which is curved so as to be easily turned round the foot: they have these irons of different lengths and sizes, for the particular part to be burned. I hired another camel for Belford to ride on, at the rate of two dollars, from hence to Sockna, agreeing that it should carry two skins of water on passing the Soudah.
As I had nothing better to occupy me, I mounted my own Maherry, with a Tuarick Rahela, or saddle, and practised riding him according to their manner, which is very difficult, and not used in Fezzan. I fortunately succeeded much beyond my expectation. A town called Gurda قردَه, is S.S.E. one mile from Sebha.
Tuesday, 15th Feb.—At 7.30. went on, after having been most hospitably treated by Lizari’s friends. Our road was over a barren plain, until 8.30. when we ascended a mountain called Ben Areif بن اريف, by a pass named Hormut ben Areef, bearing N. 55°. E. of Sebha. At nine we descended to a stony plain, bounded close to the right by table-topped hills: to the left were a few insulated sugar-loaf hills of yellow limestone. At eleven the plain became more distinct; distant hills to the right, and desert plain extending to the left: this latter was called El Ghrazzie الغرازي. At 1.15. mountains closed in, in the form of a crescent, having two black hills half a mile from the road, called Roos Ghraab روس غرعب, or the heads of the ravens. At two arrived at Temenhint طمنحنت, having travelled N. 56°. E. 15 miles. In the evening we had occasion to buy straw for the camels, in a way I had never before seen, of the people who came out from the town to trade with us. Shreef Sadig soon instructed me in this new mode of barter. The person who has to sell mentions what he wishes in exchange for certain commodities, whether oil, liquid butter, or shahm, which is a kind of salted fat much resembling bad tallow in taste and smell. If liquids, he pours water into a pot in proportion to the quantity of oil or butter he requires; if solids, he brings a stone of the size of the shahm, or other article demanded. The buyer pours out water, or sends for smaller stones, until he thinks a fair equivalent is offered. The quantities then agreed for are made up to the size of the stone, or the depth of the water.
Temenhint is so completely surrounded by date trees, that it is not seen from the road. It is a small walled village, and considered by traders as the most inhospitable in Fezzan.
Wednesday, 16th. Therm. 1°.—At 7.30. started. Stony desert to the left and right, with bushes occasionally. At 9.45. descended to a sandy hatïa, called Hatia Gurmayda حاتيم قرميده. At 4.30. arrived at Zeghen زيغن; having travelled N. 75°. E. 22 miles. We built up our goods under the walls, and lay there. Having been so long accustomed to black faces, I fancied that the natives, who are entirely a white population, looked sickly. The women are reputed to be very handsome; but I did not enter the town, and if I had done so, should not have seen them. We had numerous visitors, and a large supply of food, Lizari’s general acquaintance enabling us to procure whatever we wanted. They gave us an account of a wedding which had taken place that morning, speaking much of the beauty of the bride; and on hearing her named, we found that she was the very girl whom Lizari intended demanding of her father on his return from Tripoli. He was much confounded, but bore with great good humour our joking him at being too late. The successful lover was aware of Lizari’s intentions; and on hearing he had set out from Morzouk, instantly demanded, and bore off the prize.
Thursday, February 17th. Thermometer 0.—At eight we set off over an uneven plain to a stony desert, a cold north wind blowing. After passing some hills, we arrived at the Hatïa, and wells of Om el Abeed, ام العبيد, having gone north 50°. E. twelve miles. We met a few Arabs from Sockna, who said that Sidi Mohammed ben Shaib was expected, on his way to the Sultan of Bornou, with presents from the Bashaw: they also said an Englishman was with him; but I concluded the report to have originated in its being known at Tripoli, that Belford and myself were to have accompanied him. In the evening, we filled and mended our Gerbas, and otherwise prepared for passing the five days’ desert now before us. The Arabs amused themselves by placing a camel’s skull on a rising ground, and firing ball at it, all resting their guns; only one, however, struck it. I rose to fire; but they all laughed at me for not placing my gun on a branch, or otherwise steadying it; I nevertheless struck the head twice, when, resolving not to lose my reputation as a good shot, I laid down my gun with indifference, pretending I could hit it as often as I pleased. The Arabs were astonished (and I must own I was equally so, being but an indifferent shot in general), and gave me the title of Bendag, or marksman.
Baba Hassein, whom we again joined at Zeghen, had never given his Boozaferr, بوزفرّ, or footing in the country, which I mentioned our having done at Sockna, or more properly in the Soudah mountains. The Arabs in these cases procure either the skeleton of an animal, or some carrion, and, digging a grave, bury it, howling as if for a deceased friend. All the night they imitate the cries of wolves and hyænas, as if in search of food, saying, “Where is our Bouzaferr? we are crying for our Bouzaferr; the natives are starving; give your Bouzaferr.” The buried bones are intended to imply a starved friend, who is supposed to be unable to rest till the survivors are fed. The old man was, however, deaf to all their hints, and in consequence the Arabs made a little grave (for him, as they said), and left him, not without a few hearty wishes that some harm might befall him.
As we sat round our little fires, during our march over the desert, we amused ourselves with a variety of Arab games and puzzles, and a few clumsy tricks with date stones, and much laughing and joking passed off our evening very pleasantly, until sleep seized us, and we then laid ourselves down on the sand round the fire until morning.
Friday 18th. Thermometer 2°.—As there was at this place great plenty of Agool, and other shrubs for the camels, they were, owing to a concerted scheme of the Arabs, not to be found; we therefore were destined to pass the day here, in spite of all our threats and remonstrances. One of a party of Arabs, who had joined our Kafflé at Sebha, and from whom I hired the camel which Belford rode, offered one for sale. It would not, like other camels, eat dates, and no food was to be found in the track we were to pass. We consequently despaired of its being able to get through the desert; and I, thinking to make a good bargain with him, offered him for it two dollars, or ten shillings. He refused this, and went away; but an Arab soon after brought me the animal, having purchased it for me for a dollar and one third, 6s. 8d.! I killed it, and made every one merry, as it was sufficiently large to afford, for freemen and slaves, each two days’ allowance; it was a Maherry from Borgoo, and I suppose weighed upwards of 600 lbs. The hungry Arabs had many quarrels in cutting it up; and I sometimes feared there would be mischief amongst them; but the altercation ended, like other quarrels amongst these people, in great noise, and biting tongues at each other.
I never before had an opportunity of observing how water is procured from the belly of a camel, to satisfy the thirst of an almost perishing Kafflé. It is the false stomach which contains the water and undigested food. This is strained through a cloth, and then drank; and from those who have been under the necessity of making use of this beverage, I learn that the taste is bitter. As this animal had recently drank, its stomach was nearly full. I amused myself in making observations on its skin and skeleton, and in planning the formation of a boat; and I found that a most excellent contrivance might be made from them, for the purpose of crossing rivers; the back-bone being used as the keel, and the ribs as timbers. The formation of the chest of a camel resembles the prow of a Portuguese bean-cod, or fishing-boat. Indeed, it was in consequence of hearing the Arabs always calling it Markab, or ship, that the idea first occurred to me.
Saturday, 19th February. Thermometer 1°.—Having filled water for five days, we set out over black stony hills, bounded to the north-westward at the distance of a mile from our track by a sandy desert. At nine, a hillock of a singular form, resembling a turret, and called Amaymet Saad, bore north 52° east. As it stands at the entrance of a pass we were to ascend, we proceeded towards it; a strong east wind blowing very sharply. We met a man on his way from Sockna, who informed us that the Consul had been at Benioleed. The Negresses had, from the time of our setting off, been collecting wood, and the poor creatures were each laden with stock for two days. We passed a grave, which was ornamented by an inverted gourd at the head. The person buried there was a drunken man, a native of Sockna, who had been in the habit of carrying letters or orders across the desert, whenever the Sultan required it, and was able to pass it on foot in three days, at about forty miles a day. It once happened that a letter was to be brought from Sockna to Zeghen, and this man was selected for the purpose; he was drunk at the time, yet insisted on having his gourd full of Lackbi, instead of carrying, as usual, a small skin of water at his back, promising, however, to drink enough at Gutfa, a well at the foot of the mountains. He set out in this condition, and was found dead with his empty gourd by his side, within an hour’s walk of the well we had left, and so finished his task; he was accordingly buried here, as a warning to all topers.
At 12.6. P.M. came to the sand, and passed over it until 1.30. when we reached very steep, irregular sand hills, which we found great difficulty in ascending, the camels falling repeatedly. Having cleared these hills, we ascended a plain by a pass called Kenaire كنير, to the eastward of which, at the distance of a mile, is the turret I have already mentioned. Through the sand hills, I observed a singular line of rocks, resembling the scoria of the lava of Vesuvius, and about ten feet in breadth, running north and south for about five hundred yards. The mountains over Om el Abeed, which we had just left, run east and west, until lost in the distance. The hills we ascended were of limestone and flint, very precipitous, and facing to the southward, running east-south-east and west-north-west. The plain was covered with a white crust or clay, with here and there bare rock intervening.
At 3.40. P.M. we passed over a few sand hills, called El Ramle Shraiya, or the small sands. At 4.15. came to a black stony flat. 4.45. passed a long line of stones facing the east, called “Sala el Sultan, or the praying place of the Sultan;” a former Sultan having prayed here while passing the desert with a numerous army. At 6.30. arrived at a spot called Gheranfāta, which is generally a resting-place, and is marked by two or three basaltic heaps: we had advanced to the pass, north 45° east, twelve miles, and from it north 52° east, the same distance.
Observed this day that the driver of one of the camels, which had joined us at Zeghen, was a blind man: he held by the animal’s tail, and was in the habit of going constantly over this uneven, and, in some places, dangerously steep track between Sockna and Morzouk. I learnt from Khalifa that one of his Khādems had died in the morning, and that he had stopped behind to bury her.
Sunday, 20th February. Thermometer 30′ below 0°.—At 7.30. passed over some gravelly plains as the day before. The horizon was as perfectly level as that of the sea. We saw a great deal of Shrab شراب, or false water. This plain is scattered with the carcasses of the numerous animals which have died on it after passing the mountains. No ravenous animals are found here, so that it is rare to see a skeleton deprived of flesh. At 1.30. we passed El Ramle Kebeer, or the large sands, which is a range of sand hills running to a great distance to the east-south-east from our right hand. At 6.30. stopped, having travelled north 35°, east 35 miles. The slaves were much fatigued, and I placed a couple of little children on my horse, whilst I rode on a camel. Belford’s Maherry was in very poor plight; but I determined, if possible, to get him to Sockna. The hills of El Gaaf, which are placed on the right and left of the road before us, bore thus: north-east point of the western range north 27° east; west point of the eastern range north 66° east. A raw night, much sand blowing over us.
Monday, 21st February. Thermometer 3°.—At 7.15. set off. At nine, passed the eastern Gaaf, and at ten the western. 11.20. rose gradually to the beginning of Soudah. I walked, and my two camels were made use of by some of the poor fatigued Negresses, who were ready enough to mount them. We passed over a plain of white shining stones, called El Maytba Bayda الميتبايده, and then over a black one called El Maytba Soudah الميتباصوده, which is covered with large detached black masses of basalt. At 2.15. descended to a long wadey, having a few Talhh trees طالح, and running north and south, called Temesheen طمشين. At four passed this, and ascended with difficulty to another mountain top. At five we descended by an equally dangerous track to a narrow wadey, called Finger فنقر, where, as the slaves were very much exhausted, we lay for the night. My own Maherry had fallen very lame this day in consequence of the sharpness of the rocks we passed over; I therefore lightened his load, and allowed no one to mount him. A remarkably high and black mountain, called Kohol كخل, or black, bore north-west about ten miles. We had proceeded this day north 35° east, 30 miles.
Tuesday, February 22nd.—At 7.20. went on. Thermometer 5°. A very fine morning. At noon we passed over a wadey, called Zayra زيرا, with many shrubs in it, on which a few poor shepherds from Sockna were feeding their flocks. From 2. to 2.50. passed over a mountain top, called Dahr t’moumen دانحر تمومين, or “the Believer’s back.” At 5 stopped on a wadey, having travelled north 35°, east 14 miles. We were every evening much amused by a little Tibboo boy, called Moosa, about five years of age, whose master was always in the Kafflé next to us. This child had picked up a few words of Arabic, and spoke very prettily. The chief amusement of his master, and the Arabs who were with him, was to make Moosa dance, and then fight another boy of double his age. Whilst sitting opposite to each other by the fire, their masters made them fight with lighted sticks. Moosa, who always was the first to be enraged, began to call the other boy an infidel, to curse his father, and to use many other equally insulting speeches, which the Arabs taught him. The elder boy, provoked in his turn, then rose to revenge himself, when the little fellow darted at his legs, and by biting them unmercifully, was always sure of gaining the victory. The Moors never took the trouble of collecting wood for their fires, but waited until every Kafflé had supplied itself, when they sent Moosa to steal what he could. Owing to his small size, he succeeded in these pilferings, to my great amusement, for I found that though he stole from every one else, he never robbed me, but even supplied me when I was in want of fuel. He was repeatedly offered to me as a present by his master, and I have since been sorry I refused him: he was jet black, and extremely pretty. In all the difficult passes he rode on my right knee, telling me the way in which he was caught, and many long stories besides. If his master’s camels or mine chanced to stray, he would arm himself with a stick and go in search of them, nor would he give up the chase till he had driven them back; he was indeed a most engaging child, and I became very fond of him.
Wednesday, 23rd February. Thermometer 4°.—At seven the camels took the road by a wadey to the left, whilst I and the slaves went over an almost inaccessible mountain, called Nufdai نوفدي, which brought us to the well at its foot, called Gutfa قتفا, about three miles distant from our last sleeping place; the water here is very good. We stopped an hour at the well to water and refresh the slaves and animals, and then wound along a wadey having many small Talhh trees in it, until we had made about six miles north-east, the mountains opening out on the left.
Old Baba Hassein, the Turk of whom I have made mention as not giving his Bouzaferr, was now become quite a standing joke amongst the Kafflé. He spoke very bad Arabic, which, with his being very lame, and always requiring, when he walked, to be supported by two Negresses, made him the constant subject of ridicule. He had almost famished his slaves and camel-men, allowing them to drink once a day only, though he had a plentiful stock of water. Having a pipe, he amused himself with it day and night; and as smoking was to him the height of enjoyment, and he always rode a camel, he affected to wonder that the poor slaves should be fatigued or in want of refreshment. Every other owner had brought ready ground corn with him for the food of the Negroes; but Baba obliged his poor tired females to pound their corn every evening after their fatiguing march, in wooden mortars, which he had brought for the purpose. Though the whole Kafflé had been straitened for water, he actually brought two whole skins full to the well, and the Arabs told me that his slaves lay down and drank of it like camels. This man had been, about six years before, robbed of all his goods by the Tuarick, of the tribe of Haggar, when on the confines of the kingdom of Kashna, on his way from Tunis; but his address, or roguery, more than supplied his loss. He arrived almost naked at Sakkatoo, the residence of Bello (son of the celebrated Hatman Danfodio), the Sultan of the Fellata, introducing himself as a Shreef, or descendant of the Prophet, and telling a piteous story of his losses, which he since owns to have been greatly exaggerated. Bello, believing him to be a Shreef, took compassion on him, and made him a kingly present of a hundred Negresses, some of whom, then with him, were really beautiful; he also supported him for some time. The old man had traded with the Negresses, and had made a great deal of money, with which he was now returning.
We were also accompanied from Zeghen by an old Arab, who appeared to have nothing to do with loading or unloading the camels, and who always prayed and slept apart from the Kafflé. I supposed him to be the father of some of the camel-men, and frequently gave him food, until I learnt that he was related to none of our companions, and that he had but one object in coming with us, which was to live upon us. He had a voracious appetite, and finding he could not obtain food at home without working for it, had been for many years in the habit of passing this desert with the Kafflés, on whom he quartered himself: his character was well known, yet the Arabs were unable to shake him off, fearing he would spread a report that they allowed him to starve, while they had plenty, which would have been a great reproach to them. At the well where I killed the camel, I gave him two days’ allowance, or about four pounds of food, which he devoured at once: he then dined with my drivers, and again with the Shreef Sadig’s men, and even managed to coax the hungry slaves out of part of their dinner. Having lost his teeth, he never chewed, but bolted his food, and was a complete glutton.
Thursday, Feb. 24th. Therm. 4°.—The Sheikh of Sockna, who was on his way to congratulate the Sultan, met us here and gave me fifty dollars, with letters from the Consul, Dr. Dickson, and Mr. Carstensen, who were all well. He also informed us of the death of the Bashaw’s eldest Mulatto son Sidi Mourad, of a pestilential disorder, which, he said, was reported to be the plague. We dressed ourselves in our best clothes, and passed on, in company with Lizari, before the Kafflé, for the town of Sockna, to prepare houses. After proceeding for about two hours over a plain sprinkled with shrubs, we passed a sandy flat and date trees: at about two miles from the town, having traversed north-east nearly fourteen miles, arrived at the town of Sockna. Before we entered it above a hundred friends of Lizari, who was once acting, and is now nominal Kaid of Sockna, came out to welcome him; and I, as his friend, received every attention. We had good houses provided for us; and the Kafflé arrived soon after; but notwithstanding the respect shown us by some of the inhabitants, there were others who very much molested us; and the boys were, I think, the most impudent I ever met with, even in the most riotous and disorderly streets in London. Finding we were strangers in the country, they amused themselves with rushing by dozens into our room, to stare at, and to rob us, if they could. When their curiosity had ceased, their talents for tormenting commenced; and a good camel whip became at last my only resource against their impertinence. After I had succeeded in turning them out, they surrounded the door, all being ready for a run, and called out, “Bring the whip, bring the whip! d——n your father! here are plenty of boys peeping!” At last I was obliged to rush out upon them, and catching two of the offenders, flogged them heartily; they then began to discover, that though a stranger, I was not to be trifled with.
I must observe that some of the men of Sockna were also most intrusive and impudent beggars. They crowded in upon us ten and twenty at a time, one party leaving us only to make way for another equally troublesome; one asked for powder, another for flints, knives, scissars, and all kinds of articles: at first I felt ashamed to turn them out, and therefore had recourse to entreaty that they would go away; but this had not the slightest effect, and I was obliged finally to show that I had profited by Mukni’s instructions, and to get rid of them by main force.
Sunday, February 27th.—To my great dismay I was again attacked by hemma, and was also under the painful necessity of killing my largest Maherry, finding he had broken his toe. I had intended him for Sir Joseph Banks. He was the finest I had ever seen: seven feet eight inches from the ground to his hump, which was a low one. I was offered two dollars for him, but preferred killing him, to feed ourselves and fellow travellers. As we had to hire fresh camels here, we discharged those which had brought us from Morzouk, and I was heartily glad to get rid of the Sockna drivers, who are never contented, always trying to deceive, and never assisting any one.
We found that the Bashaw had sent chowses with eight horses, the property of his late son, to be disposed of in Fezzan for Negroes, and the purchasers were to sell them in the interior, so that they might never again be seen at Tripoli. The news brought by these people occasioned a general mourning, and the women, this day and the preceding one, were out on the sands, howling, beating the Tubbel, or alarm drum, tearing their hair and faces, and committing all sort of extravagancies, which always ended in frenzy, though they would in their hearts have rejoiced to learn that the whole Koramanlie race was extinct.
Almost all the houses here have, in the principal rooms, a black line drawn round them about breast high, with wetted gunpowder. If the woman of the house is delivered of a male child, this precaution prevents Iblis and the devil’s children, or imps, from coming into the room to tease or injure him; or, what is worse, to make him squint.
Our friend and travelling companion, Sadig, who had always been very agreeable and cheerful, this day left us, to our great regret, on his return to his native town, Wadan; whither he invited me to accompany him, assuring me that I should drink nothing but sweet milk and Lackbi, and that at every meal a new dish of whatever description I chose should be prepared for me. It was his intention to send his slaves to Mesurata on the sea-coast, to exchange them for sheep.
The mothers here, and indeed all the town’s-people, were at this time in great alarm, having heard that an Orfilly, or Arab of Benioleed, was prowling about in search of some child, whom he intended to kill and eat. This wretch had, from the effects of a loathsome disease, lost his nose, and been otherwise disfigured. Some one had prescribed to him, or he himself had conceived this dreadful remedy for his sufferings; and, in consequence, was on the watch for some young victim, in whose warm blood he was to wash himself, and then devour its flesh. An infant girl of two or three years of age had, a short time before, been rescued from him, and he was now wandering about the neighbourhood in search of another child. The Sockna Arabs had all agreed to shoot him if they could meet him, and Lizari had also given his promise to despatch him if he came in his way.
The Orfilly Arabs have almost universally a bad character, and are much disliked, not, however, without reason. A man murdered or robbed, a house fired, a camel stolen, or any lawless act, is almost always traced to an Orfilly; and certainly a more insolent, thievish, and begging set of men I never saw. They even exceed the Sockna men in this particular: “Give me, give me,” is their cry from morning till night.
The language of Sockna, as I mentioned when first we visited it on our way to Morzouk, is the same as that of the Tuarick, and is only spoken in this town; their neighbours of Hoon and Wadan not understanding it at all. I subjoin a few words, supplied by one of the natives.
| One | Idgen. |
| Two | Sunn. |
| Three | Shard. |
| Four | Erba, A. |
| Five | Khamsa, A. |
| Six | Setta, A. |
| Seven | Sebbah, A. |
| All the numbers above three are as in Arabic. | |
| Hand | Foos. |
| Head | Ighrof. |
| Sun | Tefookt. |
| Dog | Edee. |
| Bitch | Edeat. |
| Cat | Yatoos. |
| Fish | Khoot, A. |
| Meat | Aksoom. |
| Flesh | Tagilla. |
| Moon | Tajeeri. |
| Eat | Itch. |
| Drink | Soo. |
| Boy | Moozain. |
| Girl | Temuzzeet. |
| Horse | Aghemar. |
| Cow | Lebgurr. |
| Sheep | Teele. |
| Goat | Teaghsee. |
| Male Kid | Eghraid. |
| Female Kid | Teghradot. |
| Stick | Tagaghreet. |
| Water | Aman. |
| Dates | Izgarun. |
| Bones | Eghruss. |
| Money | Floos, A. |
| A Rat | Agherdi. |
| An Ass | Amketarr. |
| Camel | Laghrum. |
| House | Taskha. |
| Town | Tamoort. |
| Wall | Jadeer. |
| Garden | Tamda. |
| Date tree | Tesdai. |
| Grass | Lasheb, A. |
| Linen | Akhooli. |
| Cloth | Melf, A. |
| Shirt | Ghukkoot. |
| Bowl | Wijjra. |
| Hot | Yehamma. |
| Cold | Tasunti. |
| Walk | Achel. |
| Run | Uzzel. |
| Sheep | Utus. |
| Cry | Ell. |
| Hungry | Floozukh. |
| Thirsty | Foodukh. |
| Stars | Erān. |
| Man | Mar. |
| Woman | Tamtoot. |
| Fire | Isghrāran. |
| Wood | Shejjer, A. |
| Stone | Teghrooghan. |
| Sand | Omlal. |
| How are you? | Aish haalek, A. |
| Well | Taïb, A. |
| What’s this? | Mattawa. |
| That | Kanno deenek. |
| Yours | Enick. |
| Mine | Ennoo. |
| I | Shik. |
| You | Neish. |
| He | Netta. |
| We | Oodan. |
| They | Etene. |
| Here | Da. |
| There | Ghrādi, A. |
| Where | Maneela. |
| Many | Gootunn. |
| Few | Reehassan. |
| Sword | Awoos. |
| Pot | Ligder, A. |
| Carpet | Majeer. |
| Black | Settuf. |
| Blue | Agrag, A. |
| Green | Wurrugh. |
| Yellow | Asfar, A. |
| Red | Zuggo. |
| Old | Wusserr. |
| Young | Muzzee. |
| Dear | Yeghulla, A. |
| Cheap | Erkheese, A. |
| Hard | Yekkoor. |
| Soft | Murkhee, A. |
| Fat | Smeen, A. |
| Thin | Daif, A. |
| Mouth | Eemi. |
| Ears | Tamazookh. |
| Neck | Takaroomt. |
| Breast | Sudder, A. |
| Good | Zain, A. |
| Bad | Afāan, A. |
| Day | Azill. |
| Night | Yettee. |
| Lackbi | Aman tesdeed. |
| Beard | Tamart. |
| Bring | Aweet. |
| Take | Akh. |
| Come | Aeed. |
| Cotton | Tabdookht. |
| Honey | El Asell, A. |
| Door | Tawert. |
| Shoes | Erkaas. |
| A fly | Eezaan. |
| A Bird | Azdeah. |
| Ostrich | Aseed. |
| Feather | Terjaalem. |
| Egg | Terdaaleen. |
| Language | Awall. |
| Butter | Lemman, A. |
| Oil | Odi. |
| Pepper | Afillfill, A. |
| Salt | Teesunt. |
| Heart | Ool. |
| Skin | Illum. |
| Foot | Tishkunt. |
| Nose | Luckshum, A. |
| Eye | Teeat. |
| Knife | Oozall. |
| Blood | Eddāman. |
| Leather | Illum. |
| Bag | Takhareet. |
| Fire | Timsi. |
| Jereed | Tagareet. |
| Milk | Akhi, or Ashfai. |
| To-morrow | Teefoot. |
| Yesterday | Dullain. |
| Month | Yoor. |
| Year | Aam. |
| Hair | Zaoo. |
| Wool | Dooft. |
| Bread | Tegrāri. |
| Flour | Aruna. |
| Go | Maat. |
| Run | Azzil. |
| Listen | Sill. |
| Brother | Nitta. |
| Sister | Ootima. |
| Stupid | Williseen. |
Those words which I have marked with A are either Arabic, or derived from that language. The natives call their language Ertāna.
Monday, February 28th. Thermometer 9°.—This morning being the first of their Spring, and a day of general rejoicing, it is the custom to dress out little tents or bowers on the tops of the houses, decorating them with carpets, jereeds, shawls, and sashes. A gaudy handkerchief on a pole, as a standard, completes the work, which is loudly cheered by the little children, who eat, drink, and play during the day in these covered places, welcoming the spring by songs, and crying continually, “O welcome spring! with pleasure bring us plenty.” The women give entertainments in their houses, and the day is quite a holiday. From the top of our house these little bowers had a very pretty effect, every roof in the town being ornamented with one. They are called Goobba.
I saw this day four ears of corn perfectly ripe, which was very early for the season. The gardens here are excellent, comparatively with the others in Fezzan. They are surrounded by mud walls. Lemon trees had been lately introduced from Tripoli, and promised well, but too young to bear fruit. The dates here were very fine, and there were several sorts peculiar to Sockna. I was confined the chief part of the day to my bed with hemma.
No Arab that I ever met with has any idea of sweet milk, or, more properly, cannot conceive why it is not equally good when sour. As I was unable in my weak state to eat the food of the country, I made all the exertions I could to procure sweet milk; for though a great deal was brought me, it was always sour, and when I objected to it on that account, they said, “It is but now from the ewe, we mixed it with other to make it good.” Thus they always milk their ewes, mixing the fresh and the stale milk. As I had been four days confined to my bed, and constantly longed for this beverage in its sweet state, my repeated disappointments were severe.
In the gardens are found two kinds of rats, which, from the description given of them, must be curious. I despatched a man to catch me some, promising him a dollar if he brought four. One sort is black, and burrows in the ground; the other yellow, with a white belly and red eyes, and lives principally amongst the boughs of the palm trees.
Tuesday, Feb. 29th.—A man arrived from my friend, the Shreef Sādig, bringing two letters, one from himself, and the other from his brother the Shreef Abd el Ateef. These letters contained many kind wishes that I might succeed in all my undertakings, and return to their country; and concluded by saying, that prayers had been offered up in their Mosque for my safety. Four ostrich eggs, and two skins of peculiarly fine dates, accompanied these kind epistles.
Never was I so much out of patience with any people as with the natives of this place; night and day my door was surrounded, not by the poor alone, but by high and low. I really envied poor Belford his deafness, for had I too lost my hearing, I might have enjoyed a little peace. If any of these people obtained admittance, they sat down, and could not be induced to move for an hour or two, all the time flattering and begging. Ill as I was, these tormentors never allowed me to close my eyes. Belford, besides being deaf, understood but little Arabic, and could not assist me in keeping them off; consequently I was continually obliged to answer questions, to admit some, and to turn out others, and was thereby thrown into a fever far more severe than that which at first attacked me. The flies literally covered the walls, and fell by spoonfuls into all we eat or drank; in fact, so many evils overwhelmed me at once, that I have ample reason to recollect Sockna, and the miseries I endured there are too strongly imprinted on my mind to be ever forgotten. I managed, in spite of my weakness, the foregoing night, to go out with a man to see his wife, who was afflicted with sore gums. She was handsome, with large black eyes, and a complexion almost as fair even as that of an Englishwoman. I prescribed as well as I could, by advising her to bleed, and then to wash her gums with bark, which I gave her, and which, I afterwards heard, completely cured her. My fee was honey from Soudan, meat, and what was of far more value than all, about a gill of sweet milk. We heard this day of the arrival of our friend Bouksaysa at Hoon, his native place, with a large Kafflé.
Wednesday, March 1st.—We were to have set out this morning; but, like true Arabs, our camel-men said their animals were ready, when they knew the contrary, and after being kept all day in suspense, we were obliged to defer our departure until the morrow. I know not how I should have managed to hire camels here, had it not been for my friend Lizari, who, while I was ill, took a great deal of trouble on himself. I was very anxious to obtain the longitude of this place, and twice corrected the chronometer by equal altitudes; but it went so badly, and stopped so often, that I gave up the attempt. I was this evening much amused by a boy who came from Hoon to see me, or rather to beg some money. He was the person I mentioned, as having advocated slave-hunting so amusingly to Mr. Ritchie and myself, when we were at that place: he came to the door and begged admittance, knowing that we were eating; some others also came begging at the same time, and wishing to turn him away; on which a vehement dispute arose as to who had the greatest right to my bounty. The boy said he came with me from Tripoli, the year before, in the same Kafflé, which they all agreed was no reason at all; but when he added that Mr. Ritchie and I had given him some money, and that he was therefore my friend, and had a right to expect more, all yielded to his superior claims. An Arab, when you have once treated him kindly, thinks himself entitled to be ever after a burthen on you, and to beg, or perhaps to steal, from you as long as he lives.
The Tripoli money is the currency of Sockna, which occasions great losses to the people, who are obliged to pay their taxes to Mukni in Spanish dollars, which they buy at extravagant prices. The Bashaw’s coin is now almost worthless.
It is not the custom here to bury the dates, which in consequence are very fine, and free from sand; but they keep them in store-huts built for the purpose. I imagine that their being so exposed may account in some degree for the multitude of flies found here.
All the houses are built on the same plan, having a small square court in the centre, from which a few steps lead to an open gallery, which is the principal room. The other rooms are on the ground-floor, and one or two open from the gallery; they have no windows, but receive their light from the doors, which are all curiously chequered and striped with a kind of black paint made from burnt wool, mixed with gum-water. As they are composed of many rounded pannels of date-wood, some appear like the backs of large old books. A little blackish rat was brought to me, which was really very curious; it had a head resembling that of a badger, with the same peculiar marks by the side of the face; its tail was long, black, and rather bushy. Belford and myself contrived to make a cage for it out of a tin canister, and I discovered that it had the power of clinging to the bars, and climbing with its back downwards: it was very fierce, but I had great hopes of being able to bring it home, as well as three other animals, called by the Arabs Dthub ظمب, which resembled lizards in many respects, but were much more clumsily formed, and slower in their motions: their tails were broad, and covered with scaly spikes, and they could hang by their fore paws, which they had the power of closing on any object: their head and nose much resembled those of the hawk’s-bill turtle, and to a certain degree, they changed their colour as cameleons do.
I was rubbed this day with a mixture, which the Arabs consider excellent in cases of fever, and which really, though it made me very dirty, rendered my skin quite comfortable: it was composed of a small aromatic seed, the name of which I have forgotten, with lavender from Tripoli, and cloves, pounded together, and mixed with oil and vinegar; it is rubbed over the whole body and head, until nearly dry. My doctress was a white woman of Tripoli, who, in fear of her life, had escaped from thence.
About eighteen months before this period, the Bashaw, one evening, surprised his black wives and a party of their female friends, making merry, or in other words, very drunk and noisy, and playing all sorts of extraordinary pranks; on sight of him they fled in all directions, leaving in his presence, his wife or wives, with this Tripoline woman and a Negress slave. The latter had her throat cut immediately in the presence of her mistress, the wives were threatened with death, and the white woman, named Sleema, the doctress above-mentioned, received five hundred bastinadoes; she was then allowed to depart, but the Bashaw afterwards thought proper to send after her, with an order that she should be strangled. She was fortunate enough to escape, and after wandering about for some time, attached herself to Lilla Fātma, who was also exiled and given to Sheikh Barood, with whom she arrived safely at Fezzan. The poor woman, owing to severe illness, was on the brink of the grave during her stay at Morzouk, which made her determine on leaving the place, and braving every danger by a return to Tripoli. On my coming away, she put herself under my protection, and I promised to intercede with the Bashaw for her pardon. As she was emaciated and very weak, I allowed her to mount my camels, and I fed her during the journey. She certainly was not a very interesting figure, being much marked with the small-pox, and resembling, in form and person, a little fat man; and I was well aware that I should not make a very beautiful or virtuous addition to the Tripoli ladies: feeling, however, great pity for her, I consented to take her under my charge. Lilla Fātma, whom this unfortunate female had served for a whole year, allowed her to come away without giving her even a shirt, or money to help her on her journey.
Thursday, March 2nd.—We left Sockna, and rested for the day at some palms and sand hills, called Hammam, جمّام, four miles north of the town, where we found our former fellow-travellers already lying with their Kafflés. I last night had one of the yellow rats brought me, much resembling those found in Morzouk, having a sandy red back, and white belly; I put it into the cage with the other, who killed and partly ate it before morning. The first is called Guntsha قنشا. Before we set off this day, our friend Abd el Rahman gave us a fine bowl of milk and dates. My camels were hired at the rate of two dollars the Kantār, the drivers feeding themselves: some of the animals carried six Kantār, and were very fine creatures, in excellent condition. I perceived here that my Maherry, which I had sent out while we were at Sockna to feed in company with the camels, had received some injury in his foot, and was again lame. None of the camel men would allow Sleema, the white woman who had escaped from Tripoli, to ride, even though I offered three dollars for her passage, their animals being too heavily laden. The poor creature was therefore, in despair, obliged to return to Sockna. I gave her all the money I could afford, which was three dollars, promising to mention her to the Consul, in case she came to Tripoli and took refuge under our flag. She was all gratitude, and went crying back again to the house of a woman she had known when at Tripoli, and who had maintained her while we were at Sockna.
CHAPTER IX.
Leave Sockna — Stop at Hammam — Well of Temedd — Sufferings of the Slaves — Arrive at Bonjem — Danger on the Desert — Zemzem — Sofageen — Storm in the Mountains — See two Roman Ruins — Arrive at Zleetun — Description of that Place — Leave Zleetun — Visit Lebida — Illness — Arrival at Tripoli — Account of the Negroes of the Kafflé — General Notices of the Desert — Belford’s bad State of Health — Departure from Tripoli — Pass Quarantine at Leghorn — Return over the Continent to England.
Friday, 3rd of March.—Hadge Mohammed brought a poor girl to me for advice. She was very feverish and light-headed, and complained of excessive pain in the chest, for which I bled and gave her some cooling medicine. At seven we proceeded, having filled water for three days, the well immediately before us being unfit to drink; our road lay over a gravelly plain. At 12.15. mountains closed in from the left to those on the right, which at the distance of half a mile ran parallel to our road; they were of yellow limestone and sand, and all table-topped. We passed along a Wadey closely bounded by mountains, until two, when we stopped for my patient, who had lagged behind; her unfeeling master, contrary to my earnest request, having suffered her to walk, while he lazily rode a camel. She arrived in about an hour, very weak, and in much pain; and would have been beaten, had I not interposed. I gave her some cotton impregnated with lemon-juice, to steep in water, which a little refreshed her. A strong sand wind set in from the westward, and much distressed us: we had no remedy for it, but to lie down, and occasionally to rise and free ourselves from the heaps of sand which rapidly collected over our clothes. We had made this day north by east seventeen miles. In the evening, the wind having somewhat abated, I got a piece of leather sewed on to the hard skin under my Maherry’s foot.
Saturday, March 4th.—Fine morning. We went on about two miles to a well called Temedd, the water of which is black, and resembles in taste Glauber’s salts, and cabbage water. My horse refused to drink it; but a large supply was laid in for the poor slaves. At 9.30. left the well, and at 10.15. turned off through two mountains north-east by east. The Wadey we had just left runs three miles north of the well, and is called Tarr. At 10.15. opened on a gravelly plain; at five stopped amongst a few little low bushes. The pass through which we had come bore south 15° west, and we had made from it about fourteen miles. We had a strong blinding sand wind blowing over us all this day from the westward.
The poor girl who had ridden on a camel was now free from fever, but very weak and low-spirited. I gave her good water and cusscussou.
Sunday, 5th of March.—At 7.30. we went on, still over a sandy plain, with a few small shrubs; a strong wind, with much sand, blowing from the north-west. These winds blow in sudden gusts, and remind me of the whirlwinds called “cats’-paws” in the navy. The Negress being unable to sit upright, was lashed on the camel she rode. She continually asked for water, and complained of a severe pain in her side. I had applied a blister to it overnight, but I suspect the pain it gave her caused her to remove it. Her master troubled his head very little about her; and her voice was, in consequence of her sufferings, so feeble, that had I not rode near her, and supplied her with water, she would have perished from thirst. At 4.50. came to rugged ground; and at 5.20. mountains closed in to the left: passed at the foot of one. At six stopped, having made about twenty-five miles north. I persuaded the girl’s master to let her remain under my care until she was a little recovered, as I should then be enabled to bestow more attention on her than he could, or was inclined to do: at this time she was very cold, quite speechless, and unable to swallow. I wrapped her up in my carpet, and made two of her fellow slaves chafe her hands and feet; but our efforts to save her were useless, and she breathed her last at eight o’clock, having, poor girl! suffered much agony. Her fellows in misery exhibited a striking difference between the mourners of civilized towns and those of savage countries: instead of screaming, and working themselves up into frenzy, they sat silent, dejected, and bathed in tears, their scanty meal remaining for a time unnoticed and untouched. The country of this poor girl was Waday, where Arabic is spoken. She was handsome, and about fourteen years of age. She told me in the morning that the fatigue of the day would kill her; and that I was the only person, except her companions, who had treated her kindly since she was taken from her mother. She had been ailing for a long time, as she said; but her master was a hard man, and she feared to complain.
| Drawn from Nature by G. F. Lyon. | On Stone by D. Dighton. |
A Slave Kaffle.
London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.
C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.
Monday, March 6th.—The girl was buried near the road; and at 7.30. we went through a pass called Hormut t’uziz, خرموت توزيز, for five miles. At ten passed an insulated hill of gravel, resembling a tent in form, and called El Khayma, الخيما, or the tent. We proceeded north 25° west through the pass, a strong south wind blowing. At twelve the tent bore south 15° east four miles. At 1.15. came from an uneven stony desert, bounded on the right by mountains, to heavy sand, called Wadey Booatila, وادي قواتلا, or “the father of Atila trees.” At 2.30. entered a broad pass; had steered from the last bearing north 16° east four miles. Two little black boys this day rode my horse, which I led; and one of them showed his gratitude to me by bringing me as a present, his allowance of dates, tied up in the tail of his shirt. At 5.45. came through Hormut t’Mohalla, خرموت المخالّه, or “the pass of the army,” to a broad plain, on which we stopped at six, having from 2.30. steered north seven miles. The slaves were very much fatigued, and with great difficulty came up with us. I always observed that the females were much less exhausted by travelling than the males; the former walked together and sung in chorus, nearly the whole day, which enlivened them and beguiled the way. Lizari had four little girls, of whom the eldest was about eight, and the youngest four years old; these children were continually playing and running after each other, yet the smaller one was always as lively after a day’s march, as at first setting out: she was apparently so little fatigued in an evening, as to be frequently reproved for keeping every one awake by her gambols. There was a merry boy too, who frequently kept the Kafflé in a roar of laughter, by mimicking the auctioneer who sold him, and several of his countrymen, at the Morzouk market a few weeks before.
Tuesday, 7th March, very cloudy close weather.—At 7.30. set out over very uneven stony ground and small sand hills, which at half a mile to the eastward, increased in size and formed a large belt of sand, about nine miles in length:—observed very distant mountains in the same direction. The road was over a bed of gypsum, partially covered in several places, by sand and white snail shells. At three passed the natural turret called Bazeen برزين, and came to the Wadey Klia قليه. We had proceeded north to Bazeen, and from it N.N.W. Myriads of sand flies distressed us very much by the sharpness of their bite. At seven we stopped at the wells and castle of Bonjem بنجم, having made thirty-five miles. We were all on the alert this night, having been informed that a party of Orfilly, or Arabs of Benioleed, were encamped in a small cluster of date trees which were in sight from the well, and robbing every one that passed. They had tapped all the palms, and were living on lackbi, and the flesh of any stray camels they could find. A little artful boy, under pretence of wanting a skin of water, came to the well to reconnoitre, and on being questioned, gave some very suspicious answers; however, I suppose the report he made of our being constantly on guard secured us a quiet rest. A very heavy dew fell during the night; and we were aware that wild animals were prowling round us.
Wednesday, March 8th.—Having filled four days’ water, at twelve went on and encamped about four miles N.W. of Bonjem, to let the camels feed on the bushes, which were in great number. The day was very sultry, and the slaves had oil given them to grease themselves. I observed, that near the wells of Bonjem, the ground swarms with a species of tick, which attacks man and beast, is very nimble, and causes severe pain by its bite.
Thursday, March 9th.—We set off at eight in a very thick fog, which rendered it impossible to distinguish objects at a few yards distance. Our road was over a hilly gravelly ground, and we passed one or two Wadeys thickly set with bushes of talhh. Here I had an attack of hemma, and remained behind with my horse, that I might lie down and relieve the pain. At about one o’clock, being a little recovered, I mounted and followed the track of the camels, but soon lost it in a gravelly plain. I proceeded, in hopes of again finding it; but as we were amongst steep hills, all of nearly the same appearance, I could form no idea between which of them the Kafflé had taken its course. I ascended the highest hill to look for it, straining my eyes in all directions, but to no purpose: I succeeded, however, in galloping back to the spot where I had last seen the tracks, and fired my gun, but nothing replied to me, or broke on the awful stillness around. My situation now became very alarming, and my spirits began to sink, when I viewed the fearful prospect before me, which, if I failed to regain the Kafflé, threatened me with the horrors of a lingering and painful death.
I examined my saddle-bags, and found that they contained not a single article of provision; my powder-horn had unfortunately been left on my camel; my note-book, however, was luckily in my possession, and on looking over it, I found, what was of some importance to me, that I had marked all the back bearings. I knew, that whether I advanced or retraced my steps, I should equally be two days distant from a well, and was aware that, even in reaching one, I might not have power to get at the water; my horse, at any rate, was not likely to survive two days’ privation of it. In this extremity, and not knowing what direction to take, I found my only resource to preserve life, supposing I obtained water, would be to kill my poor animal, and to subsist on his flesh, with the hope of being, in the meantime, relieved by some passing traveller: but this chance was very remote, the road we were pursuing being but little frequented; and as to any other means of extricating myself, I could devise none. After some time passed in reflecting on what might probably be my melancholy fate if left on the desert, a sudden impulse induced me to trust to the guidance of my horse, and, giving him the reins, I allowed him to take what course he chose, little imagining how nearly I approached the end of my difficulties. Whilst proceeding on my way, almost hopeless of extricating myself, and in a direction quite contrary to that which I had fancied to be the right one, I unexpectedly perceived that I had crossed the track, and was actually in a Wadey full of talhh trees, bearing evident marks of having been recently passed over by our camels. Following this sure guide, I soon found myself once more in the safe path, and my feelings at such unlooked for and providential deliverance may be more easily imagined than described. As I was riding slowly along, I discovered, out of the track, a poor Negress lying under a bush, where, overcome by fatigue and illness, she had stopped behind, unregarded, to die.
Having myself so recently escaped the horrors of a lingering death, I felt tenfold commiseration for this poor helpless being; and having with some difficulty placed her on my horse, I took her quietly along; at such a pace indeed, as much to retard coming up with my people, whom I found in great alarm about me. They feared I must have strayed on the desert, or have fallen on the road from sickness; and such were their kind feelings towards me, that they sent a camel and a supply of water, provisions, and a carpet, with two men, to seek for me in all directions. I met them at 5.30. soon after they set out, and found that the Kafflé had, on my account, stopped for the night two hours before.
When I took the slave to her master, who was not aware of her being missing, he gave me no thanks, nor allowed the poor exhausted creature any food or refreshment; and had I not been present to prevent it, he would no doubt have added to her sufferings by a severe beating. We had made, as nearly as I could judge from our winding roads, N. 15°. E. twenty-five miles.
Friday, March 10th.—At seven we set off; road over small stony hillocks. As Hadge Mohammed, who was master of the Negress, preferred riding his camel to letting her do so, I gave her up my horse. We passed through many Wadeys full of bushes—a light shower at noon, with the wind from the northward—saw several hares; and many snakes, not venemous, were killed by the people. I astonished them by taking one or two live ones in my hand: saw a very large herd of antelopes, which I was silly enough to follow; but, of course, without reaching them. At five stopped, having made about twenty miles N.E. We had a fine night, with much dew. The poor Negress was very ill and weak, although in no pain; her master pretended to be convinced that she was only affecting sickness, and beat her accordingly.
Saturday, March 11th.—At 7.30. A.M. we set out; road as yesterday. At noon came to the Wadey Zemzem زمزم, in which we found a well, of apparently Roman workmanship, and 84 feet in depth: the water was salt, and very putrid. This Wadey is of great length, running N.E. and S.W. Gherzeh is situated in it, and it runs to the sea at Tawurgha. We made eight or nine miles north; my poor Maherry was again very lame; put another sandal on him: fine warm day. A general washing and greasing took place with the whole Kafflé.
Sunday, 12th March.—We proceeded at 7.30. A.M.; road as yesterday: had a stock of water for three days. I saw a large bird resembling a goose in form; body and neck white, wings of a dusky white, barred with dark brown; it escaped me in the bushes. At four came to a stony plain, with small shrubs. At six stopped, having made about twenty miles N.W. by N.: thick oppressive weather, with swarms of sand flies; the slaves very much fatigued. I saw several coveys of partridges, and shot some birds resembling thrushes in size, but with longer tails, and of a reddish brown colour: they fly in flocks, and in their restlessness and twittering much resemble sparrows. We lay amongst some bushes, and secured our animals, as we were on the centre of a desert, and feared their straying.
Monday, 13th March.—We went onwards at 7.30. over a stony plain until noon, when we came to a broad Wadey of sand, having a few scattered shrubs, and a strong south wind darkening the air with clouds of sand. Came to a well, but found it dry: our water was out, having been distributed without restriction. This caused no little sensation in the Kafflé, as we were said to be two days from any other well; fortunately, however, the Arabs, in wandering about, found one which had been newly made amongst some hillocks, about a mile from our track. Many flocks of large blue pigeons were flying round us. I shot one in very good condition. We travelled north-north-west ten miles.
Tuesday, 14th March.—At 7.30. went on, the weather very fine; had two fruitless chases after partridges and gazelles. The sick Negress rode my horse, and was abused every five minutes by her master for feigning sickness. I yesterday shot an owl of the size of a dove, and having very beautiful plumage; its eyes were marked black and yellow in circles, and it had those bunches of feathers, called horns, on each side the head. This day it became so putrid that I was obliged to give up the idea of stuffing it. At about a mile from our resting-place, was the water I have spoken of. We filled our gerbas there, but it was very bad, and my horse, as in a former case, refused to drink it. At 5.30. we halted, not having made more than fifteen miles, as our camels stopped repeatedly to eat. We went on about north-north-west: passed this day several spots with young corn growing, belonging to the Orfilly Arabs. The wadey we were in is called Sofajeen صوفجين, and is of great extent from east to west.
Wednesday, 15th March.—We found that three of our camels had strayed in the night, two of mine, and one of Lizari’s. We sent Arabs in search of them, and waited until noon, when we loaded the other camels, leaving the loads of the stray ones with two Arabs, together with some water and provisions. As there was no water for the slaves, we were obliged to move on, intending to send camels back from Zleetun, when, fortunately, our wanderers made their appearance.
A fine cold north wind from the sea reminded us that we were once again in its vicinity. At three, clouds rose round us, and very heavy rain fell on the neighbouring hills, accompanied by thunder and lightning: it soon after reached us, and we encamped in a small wadey, having travelled north six miles. The provisions of the whole Kafflé had nearly failed, and many of the Arabs had, during this day, only a handful of dates.
Thursday, 16th March.—Heavy black clouds all round us. At 7.15. we set off, but at eight were obliged to stop again (having gone north one mile and a half). The rain falling in torrents, we put up our tents and goods, as well as the time would admit, on a rising ground near a wadey, which was soon partially flooded. I sheltered twenty-six poor shivering girls and four boys in my tent, and we were of course pretty well crowded. I managed to put dry clothes on some of them, and to make them more comfortable. At noon the rain ceased for a time, and we had occasionally light showers during the rest of the day. Belford and myself sallied out, and, kneeling down, drank sweet water for the first time since leaving Tripoli, with a zest greater than any toper ever felt on tasting the most exquisite wine. I observed that the fresh water caused me very severe pain in the bowels, and occasioned a sensation of fulness in the chest. A snake was killed by the Negroes, nearly seven feet in length, but so much mutilated that it was impossible for me to skin it.
Friday, March 17th.—Last night the poor sick Negress died from fatigue and the united effects of cold and rain. Showers during the night. The morning was fine, and at seven we took our road over a flat of yellow sandy earth, covered with grass and small bushes; in many places the ground bore marks of the plough. At noon we had travelled north 10° west, ten miles, when the sky became much overcast. We lost our road until this period, and now having found it, proceeded north 20° east. At five the rain came on, and we encamped on some small hillocks in the wadey, having made fourteen miles since noon. Total, twenty-four miles. The latter part of our road was hilly and full of wadeys. Our tents were no sooner pitched than very heavy rain came on, in a tremendous storm (called Gherra قرّه by the Arabs): thunder and lightning close to us. The noise was tremendous, and the wadey before us was quickly filled with a roaring torrent, sweeping all before it: happily, the tents were on a rising ground, which prevented them from being washed away. The mountain torrent continued all night. I had often heard these storms spoken of, but always imagined that the accounts given of them were much exaggerated; I now found that the description did not at all come up to this night’s tempest. Sixteen poor Negresses took shelter with me, and remained under the carpet, full of gratitude at being protected from a storm, the noise of which made them tremble.
Saturday, 18th March.—A fine morning; fresh north-east wind blowing. We had a general clothes drying, and the slaves were oiled. At nine went on over high hills covered with stinted bushes. We saw a few Arabs with their cattle and flocks in the wadeys. At noon, having passed over a green plain, came to the gardens and corn-fields of Zleetun زليتن. The country was very flat, and some spots of near a mile in length appeared as if they had been flooded during the night. The ground was so slippery that some of the camels fell with their loads, and were with great difficulty re-loaded and placed upon their legs again. The nature of the foot of a camel is such, that the animal never falls or stumbles when on flat or dry ground; even on rocks it is sure-footed, but on mud it feels its inability to walk, and trembles at every joint, slipping, or rather sliding as it goes. It sometimes happens that a fall on wet ground occasions the death of the animal by splitting open its fore legs. Old Baba Hassein’s camel fell first, with him upon it, which raised a general shout of joy throughout the whole Kafflé. The Arabs most religiously believed that the tempest of yesterday, and the falls of to-day, were owing to his never having given his Bousaferr; and to the same cause was attributed our many delays in coming from Sockna, because “Ma fi el Barca مافي الباركا” there was not the blessing on the Kafflé.
A considerable time elapsed before we succeeded in finding the Gusba, or Castle; at last, to our great delight, we gained an entrance, though not till after we had all been well drenched by two or three heavy showers. My fellow travellers took such rooms as had roofs water proof, while Belford and myself preferred pitching our tent in the yard; by that means avoiding, in some measure, the multitude of fleas found in these buildings. We had travelled this day north 15° east, seven miles.
I think it necessary to mention, that near our last resting-place I found two Roman ruins, one about a mile north-east of the other. In one, the foundations of two or three rooms are perfect, as are the bases of some very large pillars; the other has part of a wall standing, with several square niches in it. The stones which compose these buildings are some of them seven feet in length by three in breadth, and appear to have been mortised into each other.
On our rising the tops of the mountains we observed with great joy the sea, beating on some shoals at a distance from the shore; but we could not see the beach, as it was hidden from us by the sands of Zleetun. To the great astonishment of my fellow travellers, who no doubt thought me mad, I chanted God save the King, and Rule Britannia, as loud as I could roar. The poor slaves looked forward to the mighty river before them with wonder and fear, and I believe at that moment all the stories they had heard of “the people on the great waters who eat the Blacks,” recurred to their imagination. It blew a heavy gale from the north-east, and the white foam added not a little to the imposing appearance of this (to them) terrific water.
The houses of Zleetun are scattered about amongst palms and olive trees, which cover a space of ground of three or four miles in extent. Corn is cultivated in great quantities.
Sunday, 19th March.—This place is particularly blessed in possessing the remains of a great Marāboot, who is buried in a really handsome Mosque, ornamented with minarets and neat cupolas, and white-washed all over. The name of the Saint is Sidi Abd el Salām. His descendants are much respected, and are called Waled el Sheikh والدالشيخ, “Sons of the Elder;” they think themselves authorised to be the most impudent begging set of people in the whole Regency of Tripoli. I was on the point of kicking out of my tent one of them who would not understand the monosyllable no in answer to a request which he made me for some powder in the name and on account of his illustrious ancestor; but luckily Lizari came in at the moment and prevented me; and he afterwards told me I might as well have thought of kicking a descendant of the Prophet himself.
The whole of the surrounding country is most luxuriant in corn, dates, and olives, and is quite level. The Castle in which we were is of the true Arab character, built of mud and gravel, and swarming with vermin. The rooms are round the large courtyard, and their roofs, being flat, are the platforms for one or two four-pounders. Two markets are held here weekly; one on a Friday, in front of the Castle, the other on a Tuesday, near the Marāboot’s tomb. The country is governed by a Mamluke of the Bashaw, who has the title of Kaid. If I may judge from the number of drunken men who were at the market, Lackbi is pretty universally drank. I bought a very fine sheep for a dollar and a quarter. Every thing here, as in Tripoli, is in the hands of the Jews: they are artisans and merchants, having dealings from one farthing up to hundreds of dollars; they also distil brandy from the dates, and find a very ready sale for it. Some small vessels bring goods to Zleetun; but as there is no roadsted, they anchor in the offing when the wind is from shore. Hills of sand obstruct the view of the sea at about a mile from the houses, and goods are carried that distance by camels.
I here unfortunately lost my black rat, which I had rendered quite tame; having appeared sick and drooping, I let it out of its cage, and wrapped it up in my barracan, the warmth of which so far recovered it, that, to my great regret, it made its escape: my other animals and serpents were alive and well.
Monday, 20th March.—As the corn was not ready for the slaves, we were obliged to stop over this day. I was much amused by the songs of the Negresses while pounding wheat; they sang all their country airs in chorus, and there was in their wildness much beauty. Their Boori, or songs used in sorcery, were particularly striking, and they kept time to the music with their wooden pestles and glass armlets, which sounded like cymbals. One of the songs was thus explained to me: the three girls who sung it were pounding in the same mortar, and regulated their beating according to the circumstances of which they sung. At first they pounded slowly, one telling the other two that they must keep up their spirits, as the warriors would soon be at home, and their lovers would bring more trophies than any one else; they then increased their time, and sang a song of triumph, the warriors being supposed to have returned; when suddenly they beat without measure, singing in a very shrill and rapid manner as for one who was dead. They then ceased beating altogether, and sung a trio, in which two endeavoured to comfort the girl who had lost her lover, she appearing inconsolable. At length they agreed to have recourse to sorcery, to ascertain if he died nobly. A goat was supposed to be killed, each of them examining its entrails, and singing several incantations, until a happy sign was discovered, when they resumed their pestles, winding up with a very beautiful chorus. The master of the girls forbade their singing any more, even though I earnestly requested that they might be suffered to continue; he said it was unholy, and that they were as great Kaffirs now, as before they acknowledged our Lord Mohammed to be the Prophet of God.
Tuesday, 21st March.—At eight we left the Castle, and passed over a sandy flat, the sea being hidden from us by the sand hills. At noon we crossed a romantic water-course, having a small limpid stream running through it. We saw here the remains of a magnificent aqueduct, which once ran to Lebida. At a short distance from one another were many small edifices resembling the mouths of wells, which were once used as communications with the aqueduct; these little buildings are seen all the way to Lebida, and show what course the aqueduct takes. At two we separated from the Kafflé, and went to the ruins of Lebida, which stand near the sea, and are surrounded by sand hills formed against them. The country inland of these hills, being highly and most luxuriantly cultivated, presents a pleasing aspect. As I was still very unwell, and little able to walk up the sand hills, I visited but three or four of the buildings, of which the lighthouse appeared the most extraordinary. Other ruins, which have once been fortresses, are formed of immense masses of stone.
The remains of the foundation of the ancient city wall are on a gigantic scale, and several pillars yet remain of the same description as those taken away in the Weymouth store-ship. My time being limited, and this place having before been visited and described by persons of more science and ability than myself, I did not attempt to search for any inscriptions. My short visit, however, afforded me much gratification, and I returned to the track of my companions, whom I came up with at seven, having travelled north- north-west thirty miles.
Wednesday, March 22nd.—I found myself much better. Fine morning. At seven we pursued our course over mountains covered with verdure, and at nine came to a Roman well standing at the foot of an old castle, which appeared to have an arched communication with it, to be used in time of war. This well was in a narrow deep ravine, which the castle commanded. We found the old Turk and his slaves waiting for us at the well; they had gone past us in the dark. The old man was in great wrath; some thieves having come in the night and robbed him of five hundred weight or a camel load of dates: suspecting his own hungry Arabs, he had ordered them to lie at a distance from the sacks. They told him they would pray to God that he might suffer for his suspicion; and were therefore not sorry to see him so soon punished for it. Some Bedouins among the rocks in the pass were the robbers; one of his Negresses saw them in the act, but feared to wake her master, because he once beat her for disturbing him while asleep. When the old man related to me his misfortune, I gave him no consolation, but said I admired the ingenuity of the thieves; and all our Arabs tauntingly told him that he had now paid his footing.
We passed many fine corn-fields, and several enclosures with vines and figs, apparently very flourishing. Many large flocks were feeding on the plains. At three we stopped, one of Hadje Mohammed’s camels having fallen from weakness. Lizari’s Maherry followed his example, on which he sent the Arabs back to kill the animal, and they brought the meat to the Kafflé, portioning it out to all. Many hints were given me that I ought to kill my lame animal, but I would not understand them, as I thought he might still be serviceable to me. Several Arab wanderers came to partake of our feast; and we were obliged, when it grew dark, to give warning that any stranger seen walking near the Kafflé would be fired at. One of the Sheikhs, who had flocks near us, sent us some oranges, which we devoured, rind and all, in a moment. Our road had been so very circuitous that I could not be accurate as to the bearings, but as near as I could judge we had gone west-north-west eighteen miles.
I was so ill on our march this morning as to be under the necessity of stopping with the camel I rode, and lying on the ground, an Arab remaining with me. I was seized with such violent trembling, that the man was obliged for some time to sit on and hold me down to prevent my injuring myself. I suffered much agony, and the most intolerable thirst; to assuage which the kind Arab went about two miles back on his road to bring me water. He was so long absent, that I began to despair of his return; my fever each moment increased, and my thirst, in consequence, became so excessive, that observing my camel, which was at a little distance from me, making water, I resolved to attempt reaching him, and endeavouring to avail myself of a resource, which, under any other circumstances, would have filled me with disgust. Weak and exhausted as I was, and with no alternative but to drink, or, as I thought, to expire, I was about to catch and swallow the nauseous draught, when, at that moment, I perceived my trusty Arab ascending a hill, and advancing towards me. Those only who have experienced the agonies of suspense, or the torments of parching thirst, can conceive my sensations when he joined me, bringing the wished-for beverage; which, after all, was only dirty water in a goat-skin, but which I thought delicious, and drank with delight and gratitude. After about three hours my fit went gradually off, and my man holding me carefully on the camel, brought me at nightfall to the Kafflé, which had waited for me. We were encamped at Wad el Meseed واد المسيد, a river of no magnitude, running through steep sandy cliffs. We had made about twenty miles west-north-west.
Friday, 24th March.—I found myself very weak, but much better. Belford continued quite deaf, but we were in high spirits at the idea that our journey would soon be at an end, and that we should once again behold our dear friends. We proceeded at seven, our road being chiefly along the sea-coast. At eleven passed Wad el Ramle, or “the sandy river,” which is a small stream, running through sand hills: on its borders are luxuriant fields of corn. At three the man whom I had sent forward with a letter to the Consul brought me news that he proposed coming out to meet us. At four we entered Tejoura تاجوره. I was on a camel anxiously looking out for him, when himself, his two sons, Dr. Dickson, and Messrs. Carstensen, came galloping towards us. I soon slipped down on my legs, but was obliged to stop them, for they would otherwise have passed on without recognizing either Belford or myself, so much was our appearance altered. We pitched our tent in a space near the great Mosque, and passed the evening most agreeably. The Consul’s sons remained with me, but the rest of the party were obliged to go on to Tripoli, promising to meet me on the morrow, and to accompany me into the town. We had a fine Arab supper cooked by Lizari’s Negress, and were all Kaffirs enough to drink wine, and even to eat some pork, when Lizari was out of the way.
Saturday, March 25th, 1820.—Exactly one year from the day we left Tripoli, we re-entered the town, accompanied by the Consul and Mr. Carstensen. All our friends received us most kindly, and I was fortunately enabled on that evening to send a letter to Lord Bathurst, informing his Lordship of our safe return. I lodged our goods in the Portuguese consular house, with which Col. Warrington had kindly accommodated us, though not without having repeatedly pressed us to make his own house our home.
Notwithstanding my happiness at once more joining my Christian friends, I really felt no small regret at taking leave of our poor fellow travellers, many of whom I knew were destined to proceed to Tunis and Turkey. Their good humoured gaiety and songs had lightened to me many hours of pain and fatigue, and their gratitude for any little benefits I had it in my power to confer had quite warmed my heart towards them. Even when so exhausted as to be almost unable to walk, these poor creatures showed few instances of sulkiness or despondency; the first stanza of a song having been sung by one, enlivened the whole Kafflé, who immediately joined in chorus. Their patience under fatigue, and endurance of thirst, was very extraordinary. Khalīfa’s girls were allowed to drink only once in twenty-four hours, yet they were always cheerful.
I was frequently amused by observing the pains taken by these innocent savages to adorn themselves; their love of finery never ceasing, even when no one was near to admire them. Though overcome by privation of every kind, and by the fatigue of a long day’s journey, they employed themselves in converting into neck ornaments, snail shells, berries, or any other whimsical objects they could meet with. Those who possessed rings, bead bands for the head, or silver ear-rings, never failed to put them on when they stopped for the night, washing and oiling their skins whenever they had an opportunity; they also constantly used Kohol to blacken their eyelids, and to make different marks on the face.
One of the women of the Fellāta had a little male child, which was carried by turns by the whole Kafflé. Her milk had failed her, and this poor infant had nothing to nourish him but a mixture of cold water and flour, unless I sometimes gave him some cusscussou. He, as well as his mother, was a shade lighter than a mulatto, which is generally the colour of their tribe.
Several of the girls carried with them an instrument called Zantoo. It is a long gourd hollowed out, having a hole at each end, and is played by striking one end against the calf of the leg, and occasionally stopping the other by a quick blow of the open hand. It has a very pleasing effect when well played, and the glass armlets, which are sometimes worn to the number of eight or ten on each arm, add to it a pretty tinkling sound. Whenever a party had a little outwalked the Kafflé, and sat down to rest, the Zantoos were set in motion, and were accompanied by their plaintive national airs. The wild music and picturesque appearance of these resting-parties was very pleasing, and I seldom passed one of them without having a lively chorus addressed to me.
There is a small bush found on the Desert, called by the slaves Wussawussa, with leaves resembling those of box in form, but tender, and having a very salt taste; these the slaves collected whenever they could, and boiled with their evening meal; and the flavour is not unpleasant.
In some of the wadeys were many thorny bushes bearing small black berries, called Dummagh ظماخ or “brains,” which have a very sweet, but at the same time astringent taste, and of which these poor girls always brought me large supplies, in return for my assisting those who were fatigued or thirsty. In fact, Belford and myself, being the only persons who did not beat or ill treat them, became great favourites; and my talents in particular were so highly appreciated, that not a male or female slave tore or wore out their sandal leathers, but they were immediately brought to me to be repaired, as I had always some leather in my pocket for that purpose: I thus became cobbler to the whole Kafflé.
None of the owners ever moved without their whips, which were in constant use; that of Hadje Mohammed more so than the rest: in fact, he was so perpetually flogging his poor slaves, that I was frequently obliged to disarm him. Drinking too much water, bringing too little wood, or falling asleep before the cooking was finished, were considered nearly capital crimes, and it was in vain for these poor creatures to plead the excuse of being tired; nothing could at all avert the application of the whip. No slave dares to be ill or unable to walk; but when the poor sufferer dies, the master suspects there must have been something “wrong inside,” and regrets not having liberally applied the usual remedy of burning the belly with a red hot iron; thus reconciling to themselves their cruel treatment of these unfortunate creatures.
I settled with my camel-men the day after my arrival in Tripoli, and having great reason to fear that Belford’s health was too much injured to proceed immediately, I agreed to remain there a short time, that he might be benefited by the advice of my friend, Dr. Dickson, who had kindly taken him under his care: he had been for six months afflicted with dysentery, was quite deaf, and so reduced as to be nearly a skeleton.
I think it right to account for what otherwise might be attributed to neglect, my having, in the latter part of our journey, omitted to notice the variations of the Thermometer from the 28th of February to the present time. Not using my tent, I found much difficulty, in so large a Kafflé, in preventing stray camels or the slaves from treading on the Thermometer; and it was so frequently in danger of being broken, that I found no correct rate could be kept, and therefore gave up the attempt.