of the desert.

Having, from the time of leaving Tripoli until my return from Fezzan, been constantly on the Desert, I shall endeavour to give a description of the country so called. In all our maps, Sahāra is the appellation used to distinguish that immense tract, known also by the name of the Great Desert.

Oasis is the term used for fertile spots or islands, said to be situated on the Sahāra; and Fezzan is supposed to be one of these Oasis: whereas, it is now evident, that it also is a Desert, with the exception of palms and small gardens, cultivated with great labour and difficulty, in the immediate vicinity of towns. No herbage ever grows spontaneously, except in wadeys or amongst rocks; and these in such small patches, that I never yet saw a spot covered with verdure of the size of a table, unless in the mountains near Tripoli. The Arabs have a name for every description of waste or desert, viz. the following:

1Sahār سحعره.6Wishek ويشك.
2Ghrood غرود.7Ghraba or Jezeera غابه.
3Sereer سرير.8Soobker صوبكر.
4Warry وعر.9Wadey وادي.
5Hatïa حتيه.10Gibel جبل.

Sahār is the name commonly used to particularise that description of Desert which is of sand alone, forming a plane surface, without either stones, rocks, water, or any sustenance capable of supporting animal or vegetable life, with a smooth horizon and without beaten paths.

Ghrood are those species of sand hills which I mentioned having once or twice passed in Fezzan: they are of an indefinite height, some being so steep as to be entirely impassable: others, and indeed all of this particular name, are traversed with difficulty. In some instances, palms grow on these hills; which are generally situated on the borders of stony plains, where the wind has collected and formed them.

Sereer is the appellation of gravelly plains, from which the sand has been swept by the force of the winds; and it is on this kind of Desert alone that sand hills are found. The gravel is generally of a small size: in some instances, rounded as pebbles on a sea beach; in others, sharp and pointed, as if recently broken; and a third kind is not unfrequently seen, covering spaces of many miles in extent, of stones which have a shining exterior, as if highly polished.

Warr is a rough plain, covered with large detached stones lying in confusion, and very difficult to pass over. The tops of mountains, particularly the Soudah, are distinguished by this name: it is, in fact, applied to such tracts of country as are only travelled with the greatest fatigue and difficulty, on account of the many obstacles thrown in the way by stones, small hillocks, &c.

Hatïa implies a spot which possesses, in a slight degree, the power of fertility, and produces a few small stinted shrubs, scattered at intervals, on which camels may make a scanty meal, or travellers a fire.

Wishek: sand hills or plains, which afford only wild, unproductive, or uncultivated date bushes, are called by this name. All Wishek bear the appearance of having been formerly what are called

Ghrāba, which is a term always used to distinguish parts which produce cultivated or fruit-bearing palms, but having no town near them; the owners of the dates only coming in the season to collect them. Zezeera is a term also used in common with Ghrāba, but I believe only by Fezzanners.

Soobker is the designation of salt-plains, which are marshy in winter, and in summer become broken and rough by the influence of the sun; or of that particular species found in Fezzan, where the salt and earth or sand are so closely combined, as to form a substance resembling stone, and equally hard to cut or break. One of these plains, between Trāghan and Māfen, is about three or four miles in the broadest part, and above twenty-five in length.

Wadey is a term of which I have frequently made use, yet I have given but a slight explanation of. It is a valley in which shrubs grow, or through which the rains form a temporary stream. Near Tripoli the Wadeys are sometimes the courses of impetuous torrents; but in Fezzan, where rain is almost unknown, they are smooth dells, very rarely producing a single plant. A small rift in the mountains, capable of containing only eight or ten camels abreast, is as much a Wadey as a large valley containing a town or towns, and the date trees belonging to such settlements.

Gibel, or Mountain, is a term I need not explain; but merely as showing that it is by no means a matter of course that a Desert must be flat, or nearly so, as even in the kingdom of Fezzan, mountains are very numerous.

Sahāra, therefore, is only applicable to sandy districts, and the Arabs only use the word Berr بار, or country, as a general term. In no part of the Desert, which I have seen, or of which I could obtain accounts, does it appear that water is found on the surface: hence it seems extraordinary, that wild animals should exist; yet antelopes, buffaloes, and some other animals, are, in different places, very numerous. Rats are frequently found to burrow in plains twenty or thirty miles distant from shrubs, and their food is unknown; no birds being found there, and the small lizards and snakes, as well as the few insects, being too active to be caught by them. In some parts, the only living creature seen for many days is a small insect somewhat resembling a spider, called Naga t’Allah نعقاتالله, or the “She camel of God.” Beetles are also seen where Kafflés rest, or in the vicinity of shrubs; and their curious tracks in the sand are so marked, that I have sometimes traced the same insect for a mile or two as I rode along.

Nothing can be more awful than the stillness which prevails, more particularly when the surface is sandy. I have sometimes walked at night from the Kafflé, so as to be beyond the noise made by the camels or horses, and have experienced a sensation I am unable to describe, as I felt the wind blow past me, and heard the sound which my figure caused it to make, by arresting its progress. Near towns, or in places where animals can exist, the slow melancholy cry of the hyæna or jackal is frequently heard during the night, when these animals prowl round the Kafflé.

The appearance of water on the sandy and gravelly deserts is very frequent, and is generally so well defined, that it would be difficult to distinguish it from a river, were it possible that both could be seen at the same time. It is called Shrab شراب by the Arabs, who often amused themselves by calling to us that water was in sight, until we became accustomed to the appearance. Of this curious phenomenon so much has been said by various writers, that any attempt at description on my part would be unnecessary. The looming of objects when the sun is at its greatest strength, is very striking; as from the vapour which rises, they are, at a slight distance, much obscured. I have frequently, in riding along, been delighted at observing in the distance, a tree which appeared sufficiently large to shade me from the sun, and to allow of my reposing under it, until the camels came up; and have often quickened my pace in consequence, until, on a near approach, it has proved to be nothing more than a bush, which did not throw a shade sufficient even to shelter one of my hands. Sand hills deceive still more, always appearing very distant when the sun is on them; and it has often happened, that I have been startled by seeing a man or camel rise close to me, on the top of one of the apparently distant hills. The excessive dryness of the Desert is in some places very extraordinary, particularly to the southward of the Soudah mountains, where, in going to as well as coming from Fezzan, I observed that our clothes, and the tails of our horses, emitted electric sparks.

Water is not to be found by digging in all parts of the Desert; but is more particularly difficult to find in the Sereer, or gravel, which generally lies over sand stone. In two instances I have seen remains of pits which had been dug to one hundred feet without coming to water. The wells which are on the Desert are generally found in Wadeys or in the sandy country; and in all those I have seen, the water was salt and putrid, but the putrescence diminished after a quantity had been drawn. Some wells have only a sufficiency for the supply of five or six horses at once, and are a long time before they again fill. These wells which were so scantily supplied, I observed, were always in a soft clayey rock; but those which kept themselves tolerably full, were in a yellow clay. The depths vary from 6 or 8 feet to 70 or 80.

In almost every part of the stony desert, small piles of stones are frequently discovered, which are erected by travellers as marks to direct them across the country, or in the event of their missing their route, to assist them again to find it. These little heaps are called Aālum علم, or “teachers;” and some become so remarkable, as to acquire other names, and to be favourite resting-places for Kafflés.

About the beginning of April, a dangerous fever broke out and was making great ravages in Tripoli, many of the inhabitants dying daily in the town and gardens. On my arrival, I made an attempt to obtain an interview with the Bashaw, but his highness was not at first sufficiently disengaged to allow of my paying my respects to him. At the end of a fortnight, however, I was admitted to an audience, and was accompanied by the British consul; who jointly with myself, thanked him for the attention which had been shown to the Mission, by the people of the interior, in consequence of his patronage.

The Bashaw was much amused by my having acquired the language and accent of Fezzan, and conversed with me for some time, asking me a variety of questions respecting what had occurred to me on my journey. He promised, that on the event of my returning to Africa, I should always be secure of his friendship: and on my taking leave of him, desired I would offer his compliments to my Sovereign.

It would be useless and uninteresting were I to relate the trifling incidents which occurred to me during the remainder of my stay at Tripoli. I shall therefore merely mention, that on the 14th of May I procured a passage to Leghorn for Belford and myself, taking with me my horse, which was a gift from the Bashaw, and a Maherry, or courier camel, which I intended to present to his Majesty George IV.

Dr. Dickson was unwilling to allow of Belford’s undertaking the voyage, fearing that his weakness would not enable him to resist any severe weather; but as Belford thought himself equal to the attempt, and as we were naturally impatient to return to England, I resolved no longer to delay my departure. I cannot omit the opportunity here offered me of expressing my sense of the kindness invariably shown me by Col. Warrington, the British Consul; from whom, as well as from his family, I received the most unremitting attention. I can only sincerely lament my total inability to do justice to his friendship, evinced towards me not only in his official capacity, but individually, and on all occasions where he had the power of serving me. To some other most kind friends, who assisted me in the hour of need, I have also to offer my sincere tribute of thanks.

Myself and suffering companion left Tripoli on the 19th of May; and, after a passage of ten days, arrived at Leghorn. Belford was again so ill, that I found it necessary to call in the assistance of a medical gentleman, who visited him frequently at the Lazaretto. Our quarantine was twenty-five days, in a good airy situation; on leaving which we removed to the town, prior to setting out overland for England. We hastened to change our dresses, and to shave our beards, though not before we had been unwillingly exhibited to many curious, and, in some cases, troublesome visitors, who came to view us in our Moorish costume.

During the time of our quarantine the minister of Mohammed Ali, the Bashaw of Egypt, honoured me with a visit; and after asking me many questions, and ascertaining my knowledge of Arabic, made known to me that his master was about to send, on a progress of discovery, a large armed force, southward and westward from Egypt, and that he was particularly anxious to engage some European to accompany them, in order to survey the countries which they proposed exploring. He hinted, that on the event of my offering my services, I should, no doubt, be very flatteringly received, and that a most liberal allowance would be made for my outfit, as well as for my services; and the month of November was the period fixed for the departure of the expedition: in short, he held out so many advantages, that I only refused on the score of my being in the service of my own government, who might, perhaps, again require me to return to Africa. From the plan thus laid down to me, I saw clearly, that on the event of my accompanying the Bashaw of Egypt’s army, I could with ease ascertain the situation in which the Niger ended, as I should have to pass into a country from whence I well knew how to proceed, and to which, should I ever again return to Africa, I would immediately make my way.

On the 29th of June we left Leghorn; and passing overland, arrived in London on the 29th of July, 1820. In travelling through France I was so severely attacked by ophthalmia, as to be nearly deprived of sight; but on my arrival in England, I soon recovered. Belford continued still deaf and much emaciated, and, as I feared, with little prospect of ever regaining health or strength. I must observe, in justice to this my faithful, though humble companion, that during the service on which we were engaged, both prior to, and after the death of Mr. Ritchie, his conduct was such as to ensure my perfect esteem and confidence. He did not possess the advantages of birth or education; but his quiet, unobtrusive manners, and excellent disposition, made ample amends for these deficiencies. In the most trying moments, when all distinction between man and man is levelled, he never lost sight of the respect he considered due to me; but in sickness faithfully nursed me, and in health implicitly obeyed all my directions.

On my arrival in London, I waited on Earl Bathurst, to acquaint his lordship with the result of the mission; and delivered up the whole of the public papers belonging to the late Mr. Ritchie.

APPENDIX.