CHAPTER XIII.

Devoted attachment of Women—Remarkable instance of this, exemplified in the tale of an Australian savage—Journey resumed—Botanical productions—The Munne-munne range—Luxuriant plain—Mr. Warby’s farm—The bell bird—Junction of the Murrumbidgee and Tumat rivers—Native names of rivers—Soil—River cod—Aquatic fowl—The Tumat country—Fertility of the plains—Assigned servants—A mountainous range—The Murrumbidgee Pine—Geological character of the vicinity—Mr. Rose’s cattle station.

How agreeable it is at all times to see a strong feeling of attachment, more especially when conspicuous in a female. Who has read that beautiful tale, “Waverley,” and failed to admire this feeling, so well displayed by Flora M’Ivor towards her unfortunate brother! And other instances, equally beautiful and correct, are scattered over our literary productions, founded “on o’er true tales.” It is met with, emanating from the human heart, both in savage and civilized life; and it is correctly stated by an elegant writer, that “there is a latent intellectual force in woman, capable of being called into action only by circumstances of the deepest moment, and on occasions of peculiar excitement:” and it is further observed, that “she who complains the airs of heaven visit her too roughly, will undergo, without a murmur, more acute sufferings than man may know: and the seeming heartless coquette, who wins our contempt at the assembly, will prove, in the hour of sorrow and affliction, a benign and ‘ministering angel.’” Perhaps some may feel disappointed when they find this digression only introduces a brief tale of one of that degraded race—an Australian savage, in whom this feeling was strong, and which occurred in this part of the colony—not in one of that amiable and gentle variety of the sex who grace the assemblies and parks, and form the domestic happiness in our native land.

A female of one of the aboriginal tribes in the Murrumbidgee country formed an attachment and cohabited with a convict named Tallboy, who, becoming a bush-ranger, was for a long time sought after by the police for the many atrocities he had committed, but always eluded pursuit. This female concealed him with true native ingenuity, and baffled his pursuers—she would fish and hunt for him, whilst he remained secluded in the retreat she chose. She often visited the stock-keepers’ huts at the different stations, and whatever provision she received from them was immediately conveyed to the unworthy object of her devoted attachment. Although many knew she was privy to his concealment, yet it was found impossible to elude her vigilance, by following her, and thus discover his retreat:—she evaded all attempts; and seemed ever watchful for his safety, probably knowing the fate that awaited him, if taken. Neither promises of rewards—enough to excite the cupidity of any individual, but one in whom a higher feeling was paramount—nor threats could induce her even to acknowledge she was acquainted with his place of concealment, much more betray it. Nay, it has occurred more than once, when there was a fear of discovery, that she has given voluntary information to the police of having seen him thirty or fifty miles distant, when, in fact, his place of concealment was in the immediate neighbourhood. The brute, however, manifested no kindred affection with this female, but would frequently beat and ill-use her.

Whilst she administered to him the refreshing cup of kindness, he bestowed on her misery in return. He had in one instance given way to his natural brutish disposition, by ill-treating the being who had done so much for him,—when he was on the verge of discovery, indeed had himself given up all hopes of escape, when she again saved him, by engaging to point out to the police his place of retreat, and absolutely led them away, under that pretence, in a contrary direction, affording her paramour both time and opportunity to seek out a safer asylum. When she arrived with the police at the spot she had informed them he last was, he of course was not there, and a strict search in the vicinity was equally unsuccessful: she then left them to continue their pursuit after the criminal, pretending to know nothing further respecting him or his place of concealment. At last he was captured by venturing out too boldly during her absence, was tried, condemned, and expiated his offences on the scaffold at Sydney.

She wished to follow him, on hearing he was a prisoner; but that was impossible: so, reclaimed by her tribe, she was obliged to become an unwilling wife of one of the blacks. It is but too well known in what degradation the female sex are held among savage nations, so different from the deference and respect so justly given to that amiable and gentle portion of the creation in civilized life. This unfortunate female was ordered by her husband, whose word is law, to follow him, at a time when she was rendered incapable by illness:—on her hesitating, he struck her with savage barbarity with his tomahawk so severely over the head and legs, that she fainted from loss of blood. She was found lying on the ground, and taken to the house of a settler residing on the banks of the Murrumbidgee river, and every kindness and attention shown her; but after lingering, suffering severe mental and bodily anguish, she expired. There is a son by this female and her convict paramour about three years old, living with the tribe, who are so attached to him, that for the present it has been found difficult to get him away from them, so that he may be brought up in a civilized state of society.

On the following morning I left Jugiong, and resumed my journey through a very interesting portion of country. The banks of the Murrumbidgee stream were adorned with large “swamp oaks,” (Plow’y of the aborigines,) magnificent water gum-trees, (Dad’ha and Yarra of the aborigines,) and immense quantities of a species of mallow, rising to the height of from two to six feet, and which at this time was profusely in flower, decorating the banks, mingled with other flowering plants. This mallow is named “Cumban” by the natives; and upon the banks, or in the vicinity of the river, is a species of Urtica, (“Cundalong” of the aborigines,) resembling the European species, “butter-cups:” the small red poppies, geranium, and other plants, similar to, or closely allied to the European species, were abundant. After riding a distance of seven miles, “Cuney’s Station” was passed, situated at a fertile spot, called “Kitagarary Creek.”

Passing by the Munne-munne range, the scenery consisting of picturesque but broken country, thinly wooded, abounding in rich pasturage, the whole appeared a fine grazing land, some parts being also well calculated for sheep—the whole for cattle.

After leaving this range, an extensive, beautiful, and luxuriant plain or flat, surrounded in the distance by gradually-sloping verdant ranges of hills, was entered upon: this flat was carpeted by thick grass and gay flowers; and near a small creek, a quantity of plants with pink flowers, having at a distance some resemblance to our well-known “red clover,” attracted my attention: it seems to be of the natural family Ameranthaceæ, probably of the genus Nissanthes. Although the ground was strewed with flowering shrubs and plants, but very few appeared peculiar to this portion of the colony. The “kangaroo grass” (Anthisteria australis) was the most lofty and luxuriant among the native grasses,[92] covering the soil, about which different species of Eucalypti were scattered; among them the “Box tree” of the colony, (Berre of the natives,) “Bastard apple tree,” (Carbut of the natives,) “Bastard box tree,” (Bargan of the aborigines,) and “iron bark,” (“Mucker” of the natives,) were most numerous. At this season they were covered with a profusion of white blossoms, which attracted flocks of parroquets, to sip, like the puny humming-bird, nectar from the flowers. Occasionally the “Green wattle,” or “Wundua” of the natives, was seen loaded with its fragrant yellow blossoms; and also a few trees of the “Bum, billerang,” or Banksia rosmarinifolia.

I rode for a few miles through this fertile flat, which continued undiminished in picturesque beauty, until again the dark foliage of the “Plow’y,” or swamp oaks, indicated the proximity to the fine stream of the Murrumbidgee; and, arriving at its banks, crossed to the farm of Mr. Warby, called “Darbylara,” where I was glad to rest after a long and sultry ride of thirty miles. This farm, situated in a beautiful spot, is close to the junction of the Tumat and Murrumbidgee rivers.

On approaching the river, the feathered creation in mingled harmony animated the scene; the tinkling note of the “Bell-bird,” or “Gilbulla,” of the natives was heard, a certain harbinger of the vicinity of water; and these birds were very numerous.[93] Perched on a lofty tree, the “razor-grinder” bird of the colonists may be heard uttering its peculiar sciz, scizaring notes, which so closely resembles the noise of the “razor-grinder’s machine,” as to render its appellation well deserved. The bird first commences with a rather prolonged whistling note, which is succeeded by the peculiar grinding notes, continued for some time without intermission, resembling in some degree the noise produced by the drums of the male Tettigoniæ, whose dinning notes resound through the woods during summer, almost to the exclusion of all other harmonious or inharmonious sounds.

A Murrumbidgee River. B Tumat River. C Creek. D Wheat paddock. E Paddock. F House. G Stock yard. b Pebbly bed of river. c High Banks. d High declivities of hills. e Low reedy bank. f Low banks. g High banks.

I visited the spot, situated not many yards distant from the house, at which the junction of the Murrumbidgee with the Tumat river takes place. Many persons consider the latter to have the more direct course, and consequently to be the main stream which is continued to the sea, (according to the discovery of Captain Sturt,) and that the Murrumbidgee empties itself into the Tumat. Others differ from this opinion; but in point of fact, both streams unite at this place, and form one continuous river, as seen in the accompanying diagram, the water supplied by each being nearly of equal proportions. The Tumat river (which I saw as high as Mr. Rose’s cattle station at “Been,” and a distance of twelve or fourteen miles beyond that station, making a distance from the junction of forty or fifty miles) was equal in breadth and depth of stream to the Murrumbidgee, had numerous creeks emptying their waters into it, and also swamps about its banks, overflown during floods, and even now absorbing a large quantity of water. Among other creeks which empty themselves into the Tumat is a fine stream, called by the aborigines the “Been,” or “Gheek,” from which the station has received its name. The Tumat may probably rise from a mass of mountains to the southward, divided from “Monaro” or “Menero” Plains, by a lofty ridge of mountains. Neither the origin of this, or the Murrumbidgee river, however, is ascertained.

It was stated to me in this part of the colony, that the natives call all large rivers Murrumbidgee,[94] and I certainly heard it applied by them equally to the Tumat and Murrumbidgee streams; but I found they usually name the river after the country through which it flows, so that on demanding the name of the river at different places, many names are bestowed upon it: a person unaware of this circumstance is surprised at the number of names the same stream obtains. Thus, the Yas river at one part is called “Gondaroo” by the natives, and this occasioned many to suppose the correct name of the Yas river was “Gondaroo,” until it was ascertained that it received that appellation from the portion of country of the same name through which it passed; afterwards receiving the name of “Yas,” or “Yar,” when flowing through its plains: by the latter name, however, the entire stream is known to Europeans, which is a better method of nomenclature than that adopted by the natives. The Tumat at Mr. Warby’s farm was called “Bewuck,” and as a variety of the “river cod” receives the same native name, the river might either be named after the number of the fish found in it, or the fish from being found abundant in that particular part of the river; for a very short distance further up the stream, the aborigines bestow a different name upon it from the country through which it flows. I mention these circumstances, hoping some future traveller may have opportunities of further inquiry, confirming my statements if correct, or refuting them should they prove erroneous.

The sand in and about the banks of the Murrumbidgee river has a glittering appearance, which led many to report that gold dust abounded; but those who made the assertion have yet to learn “that it is not all gold that glitters,” for on examination the glittering particles are found to be merely talc. When a well was about to be sunk, at a distance from three to four hundred yards from the banks of this river, opposite to, and not far distant from, Mr. Warby’s farm, at a depth of thirteen feet, in an alluvial soil, a quantity of charcoal was found, and at a further depth of twenty feet more was discovered.

Abundance of “river cod” was taken from the river, and I had usually plenty of fine fish as long as I remained in this or the Tumat countries, in those parts adjacent to the fine rivers. Aquatic fowl were not less abundant, more especially the “Black duck,” or “Buddinbong,” of the natives; a species of teal, the “Towrodey” of the natives, and “Wood ducks,” (which from their peculiar note the aborigines name Ku-náruk, resembling the sound those birds utter,) all afforded an excellent meal, oftentimes even with the addition of green peas, as most of the stations have small vegetable gardens attached to them. The “Wild turkey” of the colony, Kumbul of the natives, (a species of bustard,) is occasionally seen about this part of the country and Yas Plains, but they are so very shy, as to render it difficult to get within shot of them.

The following morning (December 9th) I proceeded through the “Tumat country.” On leaving Darbylara much swampy land was passed, varied by plains and hills, abounding in pasturage, in which the kangaroo-grass (Anthisteria australis) grew to the height of four feet, and numerous creeks emptying their waters into the stream of the Tumat. The numerous lagoons and flats, swamps or marshes, (for by all these names they seem equally known,) had a fresh green appearance, occasioned by the young reeds springing up, which are greedily devoured by cattle and horses, as in that stage of growth they are sweet, and contain abundance of mucilage; as they advance in growth, the verdure they possessed is succeeded by arid brown stems, surmounted by feathered blossoms, which wave and bend with a rustling noise to the breeze that sweeps by them. The road continued through a pleasing country, abounding in vales rich with vegetation, about which hills, thinly scattered with trees, but densely clothed with herbage, rose, of different forms and heights, varied by the “Swamp oaks,” “Water gum,” and other Eucalypti, which, by their greener foliage, indicated the proximity and course of the Tumat river; or a reedy swamp would be seen near the banks of the stream, from which often some large cranes, with lead-coloured plumage, called “Gungaroo” by the natives, would arise. After riding a distance of eight miles, we arrived at a station named “Brungul,” the property of a Mr. Keighern, and were refreshed by some milk; indeed, the excellent milk that can always be readily procured at any of the stations in this luxuriant grazing part of the colony is a great comfort, with the additional ones of excellent butter, cheese, and damper.[95]

The flats or plains near the stations are seen animated by immense droves of cattle, revelling in all the luxury furnished by a rich herbage. This part of the colony may be correctly termed a land flowing with milk, and even, we may say occasionally, with honey, as the latter is sometimes procured by the native blacks from the hollow trunk of a tree; by watching the direction in which the bees fly when proceeding homeward, and following them, they thus discover and rob the industrious insects of the “sweets of their life.”[96]

I remarked with some degree of pleasure, that although most of the stations are solely under charge of assigned servants, (convict is an obsolete word in the colony,) yet the huts are clean and well arranged. The men in most instances take care of the property entrusted to their charge, and are surrounded by every comfort; many of them (particularly those from the sister kingdom) have frequently assured me they never were so happy and well off before; and regarded their transportation as a blessing from Providence; and it certainly appeared to be a delightful change to many of the poor fellows, from the previous wretched lives they must have passed, both from their “unvarnished tales,” as well as what we know to be too true in unhappy Ireland.[97]

Proceeding on my journey, the Tumat was occasionally visible; the road often leading away from it, to avoid the extensive reedy swamps which abound close to its banks, in some places, whilst in others fine meadow land, with profuse and rich herbage, about which herds of cattle were feeding, was seen. The trees near the river, from being constantly refreshed by the water, had a vividness of foliage, which enlivened the prospect, and imparted a smiling appearance to the country: travelling was excellent; but the places now passed with so much facility, are, during the heavy rains in winter, overflown, and rendered nearly, if not totally impassable.

After crossing several creeks, (emptying themselves into the stream of the Tumat,) and riding about eight or ten miles, I arrived at a mountainous range, called “Mejungbury,” upon which were growing large quantities of a species of Callitrys, called the “Murrumbidgee pine” by the colonists, from having been seen first on the hills in the vicinity of that river: it is named Kara by the aborigines. The timber is described as close-grained and durable: the native blacks use it for fish-spears, on account of its lightness, which occasions it to float on the surface of the water: the white and rather fragrant gum-resin which exudes spontaneously in tears or drops from the trunk, is also used by them for several purposes; and the largest tree I saw about this range was thirty-five feet in elevation, and one to one and a half feet in diameter.

The geological character of the range upon which they grow, as far as I was capable of ascertaining, consisted of granite and quartz: they were readily distinguished from other trees on the same range, by their dark-green foliage and peculiar form. I collected several specimens of the tree in a state of fructification. The “Currijong-tree” was also occasionally seen about the range: it is named “Bundine” by the aborigines, who eat both the young roots and shoots of the tree, and use the bark in the manufacture of a small cordage, for nets, &c. Some of the roots are described to be a foot in circumference, like the stalk of a cabbage, consisting of medullary and fibrous substance, having a sweetish and agreeable taste.

A station situated in a fine fertile flat, called “Bumboly,” the property of Mr. Shelly, was next passed; and a few miles further brought me to Mr. Rose’s cattle station, called “Been,” located in a fertile, picturesque situation, surrounded by verdant hills and wooded mountains; the Tumat river and a fine creek running through the estate: it is excellent in situation, and has capabilities for a valuable farm. I remained here a few days to examine this but little known country, as also to observe the objects of natural history, which abounded in the vicinity.