CHAPTER XIV.
Wooded hills—Base of the Bugong mountains—Multitudes of the Bugong moths—Timber trees and granite rocks—Snow mountains—Method of collecting the moths—Use of these insects—Crows—Height of the Bugong mountains—The aborigines—Dread of ridicule in the females—Native fine arts—Lyre-bird of the colonists—Destruction of kangaroos and emus—The station of Been—Sanguinary skirmishes—A fertile plain—Cattle paths—Shrubs on the banks of the Tumat.
Near this station is a lofty table-mountain, rising above numerous wooded hills, varying in their degrees of elevation, as seen in the accompanying engraving: it forms the commencement of a mountainous range, extending in a south-west direction. It is named the “Bugong Mountain,” from the circumstance of multitudes of small moths, called Bugong by the aborigines, congregating at certain months of the year about masses of granite on this and other parts of the range. The months of November, December, and January, are quite a season of festivity among the native blacks, who assemble from far and near to collect the Bugong; the bodies of these insects, contain a quantity of oil, and they are sought after as a luscious and fattening food. I felt very desirous of investigating the places where these insects were said to congregate in such incredible quantities, and availed myself of the earliest opportunity to do so.
I was prevented, by the unfavourable state of the weather, from undertaking the journey until the 12th of December, at dawn of which day, accompanied by a stock-keeper and some of the blacks, I commenced my excursion. The day was fine; and by taking a circuitous path on the declivities of the hills, we were able to ascend on horseback.[98] After riding over the lower ranges, we arrived a short distance above the base of the Bugong Mountain, tethered the horses, and ascended on foot, by a steep and rugged path, which led us to the first summit of the mountain; at this place, called Gúnundery by the natives, enormous masses of granite rock, piled one upon another, and situated on the verge of a wooded precipice, excited our attention. An extensive and romantic view was here obtained of a distant, wooded, mountainous country.
This was the first place where, upon the smooth sides or crevices of the granite blocks, the Bugong moths congregated in such incredible multitudes; but from the blacks having recently been here, we found but few of the insects remaining.[99] At one part of this group of granite rocks were two pools, apparently hollowed naturally from the solid stone, and filled with cool and clear water; so, lighting a fire, we enjoyed a cup of tea previous to re-commencing our further ascent. On proceeding, we found the rise more gradual, but unpleasant from the number of loose stones and branches of trees strewed about: several of the deserted bark huts of the natives (which they had temporarily erected when engaged in collecting and preparing the Bugong) were scattered around. Shrubs and plants were numerous[100] as we proceeded; but, with few exceptions, did not differ from those seen in other parts of the colony.
Near a small limpid stream, a species of Lycopodium grew so dense as to form a carpet over which we were able to walk. The timber trees towered to so great an elevation, that the prospect of the country we had anticipated was impeded. At last we arrived at another peculiar group of granite rocks, in enormous masses and of various forms: this place, similar to the last, formed the locality where the Bugong moths congregate, and is called “Warrogong[101]” by the natives: the remains of recent fires apprised us that the aborigines had only recently left the place for another of similar character a few miles further distant.
Our native guides wished us to proceed and join the tribe; but the day had so far advanced, that it was thought more advisable to return, because it was doubtful, as the blacks removed from a place as soon as they had cleared it of the insects, whether we should find them at the next group, or removed to others still further distant.
From the result of my observations, it appears that the insects are only found in such multitudes on these insulated and peculiar masses of granite; for about the other solitary granite rocks, so profusely scattered over the range, I did not observe a single moth, or even the remains of one. Why they should be confined only to these particular places, or for what purpose they thus collect together, is not a less curious than interesting subject of inquiry. Whether it be for the purpose of emigrating, or any other cause, our present knowledge cannot satisfactorily answer.[102] The view from this second group was open to the southward, and was a continued series of densely-wooded ranges, differing in their degrees of elevation. When standing on these enormous masses of granite, I thought some of the most distant mountains, in a south-west direction, appeared, some covered and others streaked with snow: I was correct; for the beautiful clearness of the weather had afforded me a view of the “Snow Mountains,” the existence of which has been doubted by many. Whilst looking at them, one of the blacks came near me, and pointing in their direction, informed me, in English, it was snow.[103]
The Bugong moths, as I have before observed, collect on the surfaces and also in the crevices of the masses of granite in incredible quantities: to procure them with greater facility, the natives make smothered fires underneath those rocks about which they are collected, and suffocate them with smoke, at the same time sweeping them off frequently in bushels-full at a time. After they have collected a large quantity, they proceed to prepare them, which is done in the following manner.
A circular space is cleared upon the ground, of a size proportioned to the number of insects to be prepared; on it a fire is lighted and kept burning until the ground is considered to be sufficiently heated, when, the fire being removed, and the ashes cleared away, the moths are placed upon the heated ground, and stirred about until the down and wings are removed from them; they are then placed on pieces of bark, and winnowed to separate the dust and wings mixed with the bodies: they are then eaten, or placed into a wooden vessel called a “Walbun, or Culibun,”[104] and pounded by a piece of wood into masses or cakes resembling lumps of fat, and may be compared in colour and consistence to dough made from smutty wheat mixed with fat. The bodies of the moths are large, and filled with a yellowish oil, resembling in taste a sweet nut. These masses (with which the “Netbuls” or “Talabats” of the native tribes are loaded, during the season of feasting upon the “Bugong,”) will not keep above a week, and seldom even for that time; but by smoking they are able to preserve them for a much longer period. The first time this diet is used by the native tribes, violent vomiting and other debilitating effects are produced; but after a few days they become accustomed to its use, and then thrive and fatten exceedingly upon it.
These insects are held in such estimation among the aborigines, that they assemble from all parts of the country to collect them from these mountains. It is not only the native blacks that resort to the “Bugong,” but crows also congregate for the same purpose. The blacks (that is, the crows and aborigines) do not agree about their respective shares, so the stronger decides the point; for when the crows (called “Arabul” by the natives) enter the hollows of the rocks to feed upon the insects, the natives stand at the entrance, and kill them as they fly out, and afford them an excellent meal, being fat from feeding upon the rich Bugong. So eager are these feathered blacks or Arabuls after this food, that they attack it even when it is preparing by the natives; but as the aborigines never consider any increase of food a misfortune, they lay in wait for the Arabuls, with waddies or clubs, kill them in great numbers, and use them as food.
The Arabul is, I believe, not distinct from the common crow found on the low lands, and which is called “Gundagiar” or “Worgan” by the natives: the distinction, according to native report, is, that the “fat fellers,” or those who feed on the Bugong, are called Arabul, and the “poor fellers,” or those who pick up what they can get on the low lands, are designated by the latter names. About February and March the former visit the lowland, having become in fine plump condition from their luxurious feeding. The assemblage of so many different tribes of natives at this season about the same range, and for similar objects, causes frequent skirmishes to take place between them; and oftentimes this particular place and season is appointed to decide animosities by actual battles, and the conquered party lose their supply of Bugong for the season.
The height of the Bugong mountain may be two thousand feet from its base, and upwards of three thousand feet above the level of the sea. The quantity of moths which may be collected from one of the granite groups, it is calculated would amount to at least five or six bushels. The largest specimen I obtained measured seven-eighths of an inch with the wings closed, the length of the oily body being five-eighths of an inch, and of proportionate circumference; the expanded wings measured one inch and three quarters across; the colour of the wings dark brown, with two black ocellated spots upon the upper ones; the body filled with yellow oil, and covered with down.[105]
We returned by nearly the same route we came: the descent was however much more tedious than the ascent; but after slipping over stones, stumbling over innumerable logs that strewed the path, and a few other trifling mishaps, we rejoined our horses, and arrived at the station in the evening.
The aborigines manifested a strong desire to see the new “white feller” who had come among them, which it seemed was a rare occurrence in this secluded place: they were all eager for tobacco—some proof they were advancing towards civilization. Both males and females were in a state of nudity, wearing the opossum-skin cloaks only as a protection from the weather; and the septum naris had the usual perforation and ornament through it. Some of the females had tolerably pretty features, with dark hair, short, and having a natural curl, not, however, in any respect like the frizzled hair of the African negro, or the spiral twist of that race so closely allied to them—the Papuan, but that curled appearance often seen in the hair of European races. Many of the females wore the front teeth of the kangaroo as ornaments attached to their hair, and esteemed them for that purpose. The native weapons are clubs, spears,[106] the bomerang, and shields, which latter have rude ornaments carved with the incisor tooth of a kangaroo upon them.
The numerals in the aboriginal language at this place proceed as far as three. Thus: one, Metombul—two, Bulla—three, Bulla metong; and Biolong, which signifies any quantity.[107]
The dread of ridicule prevails to as extensive a degree among the females of this savage as among our more civilized races. One of the naked Venuses at this place was induced some time since by a European, during the absence of her tribe, to array herself in drapery; a petticoat was the portion of a lady’s dress selected, but the garment was as often thrown over the shoulders as around the waist. When the tribe returned it happened to be the latter, and they made most particular inquiries respecting the reason that she was so clothed—and whether she was ashamed to be naked, according to the custom of her forefathers? So much ridicule was levelled against her costume, that being unable to parry their jokes, she threw the garment aside, and never afterwards resumed it; she then went about perfectly naked, innocent, and unconscious of shame.
To express delight the natives utter a quick or rapid succession of whistling sounds. They have some idea of the fine arts, as I judged from some rude sketches made by a native lad in my presence. He took a piece of charcoal and sketched some figures upon a sheet of bark, which formed part of the roof of the low hut; blackee called them “white fellers,” and seemed much amused at the idea.
The “Native or Wood-pheasant,” or “Lyre bird” of the colonists, the “Menura superba” of naturalists, and the “Béleck, béleck,” and “Balangara” of the aboriginal tribes, is abundant about the mountain ranges, in all parts of the colony; the tail of the male bird is very elegant, but the remainder of the plumage in the male, and the whole of that of the female, is destitute of beauty. The tail of the male bears a striking resemblance, in its graceful form, to the harmonious lyre of the Greeks, from which circumstance it has received the name of the “Lyre bird” of Australia. The tail-feathers, detached entire from the bird, are sought for by collectors for their beauty, and are sold in the shops of the zoological collectors at Sydney, in pairs, formerly at a cheap rate, as the birds then abounded in the mountain ranges of the Illawarra district; but now that the bird, from its frequent destruction, has become rare, these tails have attained a price of from twenty to thirty shillings the pair. About the ranges, however, of the Tumat country, where they have been seldom destroyed, they are seen more frequently; at this season of the year, (December,) it has its young; indeed this is the season that the young of all the wild animals are produced in the colony, and can consequently be procured with facility.
It is much to be regretted that human beings are so eager to destroy, even to extermination, the races of animals useful or dangerous, which may be found in a new country. In the settled parts of the colony, the harmless kangaroos and emus are rarely seen, when they might easily be domesticated about the habitations. The same remark applies to the lyre pheasant. Why are they not domesticated, before, by extermination, they are lost to us for ever?
The Lyre pheasant is a bird of heavy flight, but swift of foot. On catching a glimpse of the sportsman, it runs with rapidity; aided by the wings in getting over logs of wood, rocks, or any obstruction to its progress, it seldom flies into trees, except to roost, and then rises only from branch to branch: they build in old hollow trunks of trees, which are lying upon the ground, or in the holes of rocks; the nest is formed merely of dried grass, or dried leaves, scraped together; the female lays from twelve to sixteen eggs of a white colour, with a few scattered light blue spots; the young are difficult to catch, as they run with rapidity, concealing themselves among the rocks and bushes.
The “Lyre pheasant” on descending from high trees, on which it perches, has been seen to fly some distance; it is more often observed during the early hours of the morning, and in the evenings, than during the heat of the day. Like all the gallinaceous tribe, it scratches about the ground and roots of trees, to pick up seeds, insects, &c. The aborigines decorate their greasy locks, in addition to the emu feathers, with the splendid tail-feathers of this bird when they can procure them.
The station of “Been” is situated on an extensive plain, or flat; is very wet during the winter season, from the flooded state of the Tumat river and adjoining creek; the soil, however, is not usually swampy. The river running down one part of the estate, and the “Been” or “Gheek” flowing down in another direction, (emptying itself into the Tumat,) gives the flat a heart-shaped form. It is surrounded by lofty mountains, small fertile flats and thinly-wooded ranges, abounding in rich pasturage. Nature has made it a beautiful spot, and it is capable of much improvement from the labour of man. The aborigines, among the tribes in this part of the colony, having found out that by killing the cattle of the settlers, they can procure a larger supply of food with less trouble than by hunting, have commenced spearing cattle; it was this which formerly led to the sanguinary skirmishes with the Bathurst natives, the stock-keepers shooting the blacks, and they, in return, murdering any Europeans who fell in their way, the lives lost on both sides were numerous.
About ten or twelve miles from this station there is a small fertile plain, or flat, called “Blowrin;” it abounds in rich herbage, and is surrounded by woody and verdant ranges of hills, with the Tumat river flowing through it, besides being irrigated by numerous rivulets. In the vicinity of this plain, small mountain rills would be seen gushing over the abrupt declivities into the vales beneath, refreshing the vegetation, so profuse about these spots. On the rich grassy plain, the “sparkling cowslip” was profusely scattered, and a multitude of other flowers, vying with each other in beautiful tints, adorning the soil.
The roads, or rather cattle-paths, to this plain, led through defiles of hilly and picturesque scenery; hills towered above us, clothed at some parts densely, and at others thinly, with various kinds of timber; a number of trickling streams ran murmuring through the vales, their banks covered with a luxuriant vegetation, while the rich pasturage afforded abundance of food for the herds of cattle located here, and for the kangaroos and emus, which are numerous in these valleys and ranges.
On the banks of the Tumat stream, shrubs of the genus, Pomaderris, Westringia, Grevillea, Veronica, and Acacia, were profusely in flower; and the flax plant, (Linum Australis?) called “Warruck” and “Brangara” by the natives, grew luxuriantly about the flat, attaining the height of from two to five feet, and the largest circumference of stem, half an inch. This plant, by cultivation, might form a valuable article of commerce, and could be procured in any quantity. The natives first pulling the bark from the stem, remove the epidermis from the flax, and dry it in the sun; they then manufacture it into small cord by rolling upon the thigh; (a similar method is adopted by the New Zealanders when manufacturing their flax into twine;) it is afterwards employed in the formation of nets, and for a variety of other purposes.