THE PLEASURES OF THE TABLE
BOOKS BY THE SAME AUTHOR
"The Garden's Story, or Pleasures and Trials of an Amateur Gardener." Illustrated by Louis Rhead.
"The Story of My House." With a frontispiece by Sidney L. Smith.
"In Gold and Silver." Illustrated by A. B. Wenzell and W. Hamilton Gibson.
"The Rose." By H. B. Ellwanger. Revised edition, with an Introduction by George H. Ellwanger.
"Idyllists of the Country Side." With a title-page by George Wharton Edwards.
"Love's Demesne: A Garland of Contemporary Love Poems Gathered from Many Sources."
"Meditations on Gout, with a Consideration of its Cure through the Use of Wine." With a frontispiece and title-page by George Wharton Edwards.
"A SA TOUTE-PUISSANCE!"
From the painting by Gabriel Metzu, 1664
THE
PLEASURES
OF THE TABLE
AN ACCOUNT OF GASTRONOMY
FROM ANCIENT DAYS TO
PRESENT TIMES.
WITH A HISTORY OF ITS LITERATURE,
SCHOOLS, AND MOST DISTINGUISHED ARTISTS;
TOGETHER WITH SOME SPECIAL RECIPES,
AND VIEWS CONCERNING
THE AESTHETICS OF DINNERS
AND DINNER-GIVING.
BY
GEORGE H. ELLWANGER, M.A.
NEW YORK
DOUBLEDAY PAGE AND CO.
1902
Copyright, 1902, by
Doubleday, Page & Co.
FANTAISIE CULINAIRE: LE
POISSON PRÉVOYANT
By A. Thierry
TO HER,
TRUE COMRADE, WHOSE
VERSANT TOUCH AND ARTFUL
HAND HAVE KEENED MY
ZEST FOR GASTRONOMIC LORE,
THIS VOLUME IS DEVOTEDLY
INSCRIBED.
"Gasteria is the Tenth Muse; she presides over the enjoyments of Taste."
Brillat-Savarin.
"The History of Gastronomy is that of manners, if not of morals; and the learned are aware that its literature is both instructive and amusing; for it is replete with curious traits of character and comparative views of society at different periods, as well as with striking anecdotes of remarkable men and women whose destinies have been strangely influenced by their epicurean tastes and habits."
Abraham Hayward.
INTRODUCTORY
It is far from the purpose or desire of the author to add another to the innumerable volumes having practical cookery as their theme—the published works of the past decade alone being too numerous to digest.
The following chapters, therefore, though touching upon the practical part of the art, will be found more closely concerned with the history, literature, and æsthetics of the table than with its purely utilitarian side. Indeed, a complete manual of practical cookery is one of the impossibilities, for no person would have the patience to compile it; and even were such a work achievable, few readers could find sufficient time for its perusal. A glance at the portly "Bibliographie Gastronomique" of Georges Vicaire, in which English contributions to the subject are so meagrely represented, will suffice to show the difficulties such a task would impose. To classify properly the multitudinous dishes which, virtually identical, figure under so many different names, would of itself require years of severe application and laborious research. It may be observed, notwithstanding, that the world stands much less in need of additional inventions as regards the utilisation and preparation of foods than of an expert anthologist to garner the most worthy among recipes already existing in such bewildering profusion.
In the succeeding pages the writer has drawn from many sources, both ancient and modern—wherever an anecdote which is not too familiar has been found amusing, or an observation has been deemed pertinent or instructive. An occasional recipe has been given, and the sweet tooth of femininity has not been neglected. The hygiene of the table has likewise been considered, and some pernicious customs in connection with dining have been plainly dealt with. There are also some allusions to wines with respect to their complementary dishes, although wine is so important a subject as to call for a volume by itself.
It has not been deemed advisable to pass the cookery of the entire globe under review, even in a cursory manner. To devote separate chapters to Scandinavian, South American, and Oriental dishes, or even to purely Spanish, Mexican, and Russian food preparations, were both needless and cumbersome. The best have been embodied in the cosmopolitan kitchen; and the rest, for the most part, require the atmosphere of their native surroundings to be appraised at their proper value. It is with the French that the annalist of the table has chiefly to deal.
Necessarily, in treating of what Thomas Walker has termed "one of the most important of our temporal concerns," many gastronomic expressions and names of dishes, and not a few observations relating to the table, which would lose their piquancy or precise colouring on translation, have been retained in the language in which they originally appear. "Les quenelles de levraut saucées d'une espagnolle au fumet," "les amourettes de bœuf marinées frites," "l'épaule de veau en musette champêtre," "un coq vièrge en petit deuil," for example, while natural and comprehensible in French, would sound somewhat bizarre as "Forcemeat balls of leverets sauced with a racy Spanish woman," "the love-affairs of soused beef fried," "a shoulder of veal in rural bagpipes," and "a virgin rooster in half-mourning." And surely, in reviewing the aide-de-camp of the cook, it becomes obligatory to employ a French term upon occasion, and equally seemly to address him now and then in the classic tongue of the kitchen.
The principal meal has chiefly been considered, as through this to the greatest extent depend the health and frame of mind that determine the actions of man from day to day. It will, accordingly, be an entrée compounded of numerous flavourings, or a braise with its "bouquet garni" that has simmered gently over the smothered charcoal, rather than a familiar pièce de résistance which the reader is invited to partake of and discuss at his leisure.
