A. Emulsions.
Amandine.
Almond Cream.—Melt ten pounds of purified lard in an enamelled iron pot or a porcelain vessel, and while increasing the temperature add little by little five pounds of potash lye of 25% strength, stirring all the time with a broad spatula. When fat and lye have become a uniform mass, 2¾ to 3½ ounces of alcohol is gradually added, whereby the mixture acquires a translucent, crystalline appearance. Before the alcohol is added three-fourths to one ounce of oil of bitter almond is dissolved in it. The soapy mass thus obtained is called “almond cream” (crême d’amandes) and may be used alone for washing. For making Amandine take of—
| Expressed oil of almonds | 10 lb. |
| Almond cream | 3½ oz. |
| Oil of bergamot | 1 oz. |
| Oil of bitter almond | 1½ oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 150 grains. |
| Oil of clove | 150 grains. |
| Oil of mace | 150 grains. |
| Water | 1¾ oz. |
| Sugar | 3½ oz. |
In the manufacture the following rules should be observed.
Effect the mixture in a cool room, the cellar in summer, a fireless room in winter. Mix the ingredients in a shallow, smooth vessel, best a large porcelain dish, using a very broad, flat stirrer with several holes. The sugar is first dissolved in the water and intimately mixed with the almond cream. The essential oils are dissolved in the almond oil contained in a vessel provided with a stop-cock. The oil is first allowed to run into the dish in a moderate stream under continual stirring. The mass soon grows more viscid, and toward the end of the operation the flow of oil must be carefully restricted so that the quantity admitted can be at once completely mixed with the contents of the dish. Well-made amandine must be rather consistent and white, and should not be translucent. If translucency or an oily appearance is observed during the mixture, the flow of oil must be at once checked or enough almond cream must be added to restore the white appearance, under active stirring.
As amandine is very liable to decompose, it must be immediately filled into the vessels in which it is to be kept, and the latter, closed air-tight, should be preserved in a cool place. By adding ¾ ounce of salicylic acid, amandine may be made quite permanent so that it can be kept unchanged even in a warm place.
We have described the preparation of amandine at greater length because its manufacture requires some technical skill and because the preparation of all other cold-creams corresponds in general with that of amandine.
Glycerin Emulsions. A. Glycerin Cream.
| Glycerin | ½ lb. |
| Almond oil | 14 oz. |
| Rose water | 12½ oz. |
| Spermaceti | 3½ oz. |
| Wax | 480 grains. |
| Oil of rose | 60 grains. |
Melt the wax and spermaceti by gentle heat, then add the almond oil, next the glycerin mixed with the rose water, and lastly the oil of rose which may also be replaced by some other fragrant oil or mixture. If the preparation is to be used in summer, it is advisable to increase the wax by one-half, thus giving the mass greater consistence.
B. Glycerin Jelly.
| Glycerin | 2 lb. |
| Almond oil | 6 lb. |
| Soap | 5½ oz. |
| Oil of orange peel | 150 grains. |
| Oil of thyme | ¾ oz. |
Mix the soap with the glycerin, gradually add the oil (as for amandine), and finally the aromatics.
Jasmine Emulsion.
| Huile antique de jasmin | 2 lb. |
| Almond cream | 5½ oz. |
| Expressed oil of almond | 4 lb. |
| Water | 5½ oz. |
| Sugar | 2¾ oz. |
Mix in the same order as given under Amandine.
Tuberose Emulsion.
| Huile antique des tubéroses | 1¾ to 2 lb. |
| Almond cream | 5½ oz. |
| Expressed oil of almond | 4 lb. |
| Water | 5½ oz. |
| Sugar | 2¾ oz. |
Violet Emulsion.
| Huile antique des violettes | 2 to 3 lb. |
| Almond cream | 5½ oz. |
| Expressed oil of almond | 4 lb. |
| Water | 5½ oz. |
| Sugar | 2¾ oz. |
In place of the huiles antiques named (i.e., fine oils saturated with the odors of the corresponding flowers) any other huile antique may be used and the cream then called by the name of the flower whose odor it possesses. Such creams with genuine huiles antiques are among the finest preparations known in perfumery and of course are high-priced, owing to the cost of the huiles antiques.