Perfumes and their preparation

by George William Askinson

A. Pomades.

In manufacturing perfumery two groups of pomades are distinguished—those with a hard base, and those with a soft base. By base is meant the fat which is the vehicle of the odor in every pomade. The consistence of the substance depends upon its melting-point; lard and beef marrow, having a low melting-point, furnish soft pomades; while beef and mutton tallow, which often receive an addition of paraffin, wax, or spermaceti in order to make them firmer, have a higher melting-point and serve for hard pomades.

French perfumers put on the market some very fine pomades consisting of the fat which has served for the absorption of odors by maceration, enfleurage, etc., and which has been treated with alcohol for the extraction of the odors (so-called washed pomades). No matter how long such a fat is treated with alcohol, it tenaciously retains a portion of the odor to which the great fragrance of these pomades is due and which has given them their reputation.

If the pomades resulting from the following formulas should turn out too soft—a fact depending on the climate of the place of manufacture—they may receive an addition of a mixture of equal parts of paraffin, wax, and spermaceti, in portions of respectively five per cent at each addition, until the desired ointment-like consistence is attained.

Cantharidal Pomade.

Beef marrow	4 lb.
Wax	7 oz.
Oil of mace	150 grains.
Oil of clove	150 grains.
Oil of rose	150 grains.
Tincture of cantharides	¾ oz.

Tincture of cantharides is prepared by prolonged maceration of ¾ ounce of powdered cantharides in one quart of alcohol.

Circassian Pomade.

Benzoin pomade (see below)	2 lb.
Rose pomade	1 lb.
Lard	2 lb.
Expressed oil of almond	4 lb.
Alkanet root	3½ oz.
Oil of rose	½ oz.

The almond oil alone is first macerated with the alkanet root until, when added to the other ingredients, it imparts a beautiful red color to the pomade.

Benzoin Pomade A.

Benzoic acid, sublimed	4¼ oz.
Purified fat	4 lb.

Benzoin Pomade B.

Benzoin	12¼ oz.
Fat	4 lb.

Macerate the benzoin or benzoic acid in the fat at the temperature of boiling water for several hours, and strain the pomade through a cloth.

Double Pomades.

These pomades are put on the market in excellent quality especially by French manufacturers. They consist of a mixture of washed pomades and huiles antiques. The respective quantities must be chosen according to the climate of the country for which the articles are intended. Colder countries require equal parts by weight of pomades and oils; warmer climates, two parts of fat to one of oil.

Crystallized Oil (Huile Crystallisée).

Huile antique of orange flowers	1 lb.
Huile antique of roses	2 lb.
Huile antique of tuberoses	2 lb.
Huile antique of violets	2 lb.
Spermaceti	1 lb.
Paraffin	7 oz.

The addition of spermaceti and paraffin causes the mixture to assume a crystalline form on cooling, the appearance improving in proportion as the cooling is slow and gradual. First melt the paraffin and spermaceti on a water bath, add the huiles antiques, mix thoroughly by prolonged stirring, and pour the finished product into the vessels in which it is to be sold. These vessels are previously warmed to 60 or 70° C. (140-158°F.), and very slowly after filling, so as to secure a beautiful crystalline mass. A second quality of crystalline hair oil is made according to the following formula:

Expressed oil of almond	10 lb.
Spermaceti	21 oz.
Paraffin	14 oz.
Oil of bergamot	2 oz.
Oil of lemon	4¼ oz.
Oil of bitter almond	150 grains.

Blossom Pomade (Pomade à Fleurs).

Expressed oil of almond	4 lb.
Jasmine pomade	28 oz.
Rose pomade	28 oz.
Violet pomade	28 oz.
Oil of bergamot	½ oz.
Oil of lemon	150 grains.

Bear’s Grease Pomade (Pomade à Graisse d’Ours).

Expressed oil of almond	20 lb.
Lard	24 lb.
Cassie pomade	4 lb.
Jasmine pomade	4 lb.
Huile antique of cassie	1 lb.
Huile antique of jasmine	1 lb.
Huile antique of orange flowers	1 lb.
Huile antique of roses	1 lb.
Huile antique of tuberoses	1 lb.
Oil of bergamot	½ lb.
Oil of lemon	3½ oz.
Oil of nutmeg	1½ oz.
Oil of clove	4¼ oz.

This pomade is rather consistent; if it is to be made still firmer for summer use or warm climates, the almond oil should be diminished and the lard increased in proportion, or some tallow and wax added. The pomade is made by mixing the oil and lard, adding next the pomades and huiles antiques, and finally the essential oils. The temperature should not be higher than suffices to keep the mass liquid; the mixture is effected by vigorous stirring, and is then at once, though gradually, cooled.