B. Acid Perfumes.
As there is a group of perfumes which is distinguished by their characteristic odor of ammonia and which we have therefore called ammoniacal, so there is an important series of articles containing acetic acid which are used cosmetically as so-called toilet vinegars, and in some washes.
Ordinary vinegar, i.e., water containing four to six per cent of acetic acid, has, as is well known, a not unpleasant refreshing odor and a pure acid taste. Pure acetic acid, now made in large quantities and of excellent quality, is known commercially as glacial acetic acid. In commerce, it is customary to designate any acetic acid containing 85 or more per cent of the absolute acid, as glacial acetic acid. In chemical or pharmacopœial nomenclature, however, the glacial acid is meant to be as near 100% as possible. In perfumery, an 85% acid is sufficiently strong. It forms a colorless liquid with a narcotic odor and an intensely acid taste; it congeals into glassy crystals at a temperature of 8.5° C. (47° F.). The latter property is of importance as showing the purity of the acid. Concentrated acetic acid, like alcohol, dissolves aromatic substances, with which it forms perfumes which differ from those made with alcohol mainly by their peculiar refreshing after-odor which is due to the acetic acid.
Acetic acid can be saturated with various odors and thus furnish fine perfumes; but for so-called toilet vinegars which are used as washes the acetic acid must be properly diluted, since the concentrated acid has pronounced caustic properties, reddens the skin, and may even produce destructive effects on sensitive parts such as the lips.
Aromatic Vinegar (Vinaigre Aromatique).
| Glacial acetic acid | 2 lb. |
| Camphor | 4¼ oz. |
| Oil of lavender | ¾ oz. |
| Oil of mace | 150 grains. |
| Oil of rosemary | 150 grains. |
Instead of the perfumes here given, finer odors may be employed for the production of superior toilet vinegars; thus we find vinaigre ambré, au musc, à la violette, au jasmin, etc., according to the perfume used. As concentrated acetic acid dissolves most aromatic substances the same as alcohol, all alcoholic perfumes may have their counterparts in acetic acid; but the aromatics should never be added in so large amount as to mask the characteristic odor of the acetic acid. A very pleasant vinegar may be produced by combining an alcoholic with an acid perfume, as in the following:
Spiced Vinegar (Vinaigre aux Épices).
| 1. Macerate: | |
| Leaves of geranium, lavender, peppermint, | |
| rosemary, and sage, of each | 1 oz. |
| In alcohol of 80% | 1 lb. |
| 2. Macerate: | |
| Angelica root, calamus root, camphor, | |
| mace, nutmeg, cloves, of each | ½ oz. |
| In glacial acetic acid | 2 lb. |
for two weeks, mix the liquids, and filter them into a bottle which should not be completely filled. The longer this mixture is allowed to season in the bottle, the finer will be the aroma; for in the course of time the alcohol and acetic acid react on each other and form acetic ether, which likewise possesses a pleasant aromatic odor.
Certain aromatic vinegars, like ammoniacal perfumes, are filled into smelling bottles containing the same porous substances for their absorption, namely, sponge, pumice stone, crystals of potassium sulphate, etc.