C. The Colors used in Perfumery.
Some articles are colored intentionally; this remark applies particularly to some soaps which not rarely are stained to correspond to the color of the flower whose odor they bear; for instance, violet soap. Some articles again are used only on account of their color; for instance, paints, hair and whisker dyes. As we shall discuss this subject at greater length in connection with these toilet articles, we merely state here that nowadays every manufacturer can choose between a large number of dyes of any color, all of which are innoxious; hence no perfumer should under any circumstances use poisonous colors. This is a matter of importance with substances intended for immediate contact with the human body such as paints, lip salves, soaps, etc. All of these colors will be described hereafter.
[CHAPTER VII.]
THE EXTRACTION OF ODORS.
Excepting the articles made in Turkey and India (especially oil of rose), most aromatic substances are manufactured in southern France and the adjoining regions of Italy, while a few (oils of peppermint and lavender) are produced in England; a few also (oils of peppermint, spearmint, wintergreen, sassafras, etc.) in the United States. However, as we have stated above, it is possible to cultivate some plants from which odors are extracted in the warm sections of this country, and to obtain the most expensive perfumes from them. Among these plants our experience leads us to suggest violets, roses, reseda, lavender, mints, syringa, lilac, and several others to which the climate is adapted.
The methods by which the odors can be extracted from the plants differ according to the physical properties of the raw material and the chemical composition of the aromatic substance. We shall here briefly describe the methods thus far known, and at the same time add our own experience in this most important part of the art of perfumery. The aromatic substances are obtained by pressure, by distillation, by maceration (infusion), by absorption (enfleurage) through air or through carbonic acid, and by extraction.