C. Tooth Tinctures (Lotions) and Mouth Washes (Essences Dentifrices).

Eau Anathérine.

Guaiac wood3½ oz.
Myrrh8 oz.
Cloves5½ oz.
Santal wood5½ oz.
Cinnamon1¾ oz.
Alcohol4 qts.
Rose water2 qts.
Oil of mace.75 grains.
Oil of rose75 grains.
Oil of cinnamon75 grains.

The solids are macerated in the alcohol, the essential oils are dissolved in the filtered liquid, and lastly the rose water is added.

Eau de Botot.

This tooth tincture, which is quite a favorite, is made in different ways; the compositions made according to the French and English formulas are considered the best. For this and many other tooth tinctures rhatany root is also frequently used. Rhatany root is derived from Krameria triandra, a South American plant. Its alcoholic tincture has a red color.

A. French Formula.

Anise10 oz.
Cochineal¾ oz.
Mace150 grains.
Cloves.150 grains.
Cinnamon2¾ oz.
Alcohol3 qts.
Oil of peppermint¾ oz.

B. English Formula.

Tincture of cedar4 qts.
Tincture of myrrh1 qt.
Tincture of rhatany1 qt.
Oil of lavender¾ oz.
Oil of peppermint1 oz.
Oil of rose150 grains.

Borated Tooth Tincture.

Borax5½ oz.
Myrrh5½ oz.
Red santal wood5½ oz.
Sugar5½ oz.
Cologne water1 qt.
Alcohol3 qts.
Water3 pints.

Macerate the myrrh and santal wood in the alcohol, then add the Cologne water, and lastly the sugar and borax dissolved in the water.

Camphorated Cologne Water.

Camphor1 lb.
Cologne water4 qts.

Cologne water with myrrh is made in the same way, by substituting a like weight of myrrh for the camphor.

Eau de Milan.

Kino3½ oz.
Civet75 grains.
Cinnamon¾ oz.
Alcohol5 qts.
Oil of bergamot150 grains.
Oil of lemon150 grains.
Oil of peppermint¾ oz.

Kino contains an astringent, a variety of tannin, and forms a dark red solution with alcohol.

Eau de Mialhe.

Tincture of benzoin¾ oz.
Tincture of tolu¾ oz.
Tincture of vanilla150 grains.
Kino5½ oz.
Alcohol5 qts.
Oil of anise.75 grains.
Oil of peppermint¾ oz.
Oil of star-anise75 grains.
Oil of cinnamon150 grains.

Myrrh Tooth Tincture.

Mace1¾ oz.
Myrrh.8 oz.
Cloves8 oz.
Rhatany root.8 oz.
Alcohol5 qts.

Chloral Mouth Wash.

Chloral hydrate1 oz.
Water10 oz.

A small quantity of this, rinsed about the mouth, removes every trace of bad odor.

Potassium Permanganate Water.

Potassium permanganate3½ oz.
Distilled water5 qts.

Potassium permanganate easily dissolves in distilled water and forms a beautiful violet solution, a few drops of which are placed in a glass of water for use. This salt is one of the most valuable articles for the teeth; it has the property of readily giving off oxygen to organic substances and hence immediately destroys all odor in the mouth by oxidizing the organic bodies; it also removes at once the odor of tobacco smoke. After rinsing the mouth with this solution, it is well to use some peppermint water for polishing the teeth. This mouth wash leaves brown stains on linen and other materials as well as on the skin; such spots can only be removed with acids (hydrochloric, oxalic, etc.).

Salicylated Tooth Tincture.

Salicylic acid1¾ oz.
Orange-flower water30 grains.
Water2 qts.
Alcohol1 qt.
Oil of peppermint30 grains.

Salicylic acid is a substance possessing strong antiseptic properties; therefore, when this mouth wash is used after meals, the occurrence of any bad odor, even in persons with defective teeth, is prevented and the progress of caries is arrested, so that the acid may be considered one of the most valuable substances in hygienic perfumery.

Dissolve the salicylic acid in the warm alcohol mixed with water; add to the still warm solution the orange-flower water and the oil of peppermint dissolved in some of the alcohol.

Eau de Salvia.

Oil of lemon.¾ oz.
Oil of sage1¾ oz.
Alcohol1 qt.
Water4 qts.

The essential oils are dissolved in the alcohol, and this solution mixed with the water.

Eau de Violettes.

Tincture of orris root1 qt.
Rose water, triple1 qt.
Alcohol1 qt.
Oil of bitter almond75 grains.
Oil of neroli30 grains.

[CHAPTER XXV.]
COSMETIC PERFUMERY.

In cosmetic perfumery, use is made chiefly of articles which serve to beautify some parts of the body by artificial means; for instance, to impart to pale cheeks a youthful freshness or to restore to prematurely gray hair its original appearance. In so far as the former object is attained also by the preparations discussed in Chapters XXI., XXII., XXIII., and XXIV., they likewise belong to the domain of cosmetic perfumery; for health and beauty are inseparably connected.

Though we have separated hygienic from cosmetic perfumery, we have done so only in order to draw the line between preparations whose regular use really improves the bodily health, and those which temporarily cover a defect of certain parts of the body.

Cosmetics may also be divided into several groups—those for beautifying the skin, as paints and toilet powders; and those for the care of the hair. The latter are subdivided into hair washes, hair dyes, so-called hair tonics, depilatories, and preparations for dressing the hair, i.e., for making it glossy and fixing it.

[CHAPTER XXVI.]
SKIN COSMETICS AND FACE LOTIONS.

The use of skin cosmetics and paints is of remote antiquity, but varies in different nations according to their civilization and their sense of beauty. While among certain Oriental nations dark blue rings around the eyes, with yellow lips and nails, pass for beautiful, the European prizes only a white skin with a delicate tinge of red; Italian ladies in the middle ages used the dark red juice of the fruit of the deadly night-shade as a paint, hence the name bella donna, i.e., beautiful lady. (According to Matthiolus, the name herba bella donna arose from the fact that Italian ladies used a distilled water of the plant as a cosmetic.) Owing to its marked effect on the eyes, by dilating the pupil and increasing the lustre, this juice also heightens the brilliancy of the eye, though at the expense of its health.

While in the last century face-painting was a universal fashion, it is nowadays resorted to only by persons whose skin requires some artificial help. But nobody desires that the cosmetic should be perceptible on the skin. Hence it must be laid down as a rule that paints and all cosmetics should be so compounded that it is not easily possible to the observer to recognize that some artificial means has been employed for beautifying the skin.

We give below a number of such articles, which come as near as possible to this ideal without injuring the skin. As every skin cosmetic cannot but occlude the pores of the skin, it should be removed as soon as possible—an advice to be heeded particularly by actors and actresses, who must appear painted on the boards.