D. Cold-Creams and Lip Salves.

In the main they resemble in their composition the emulsions and vegetable milks, but differ by their thick consistence which renders them suitable for being rubbed into the skin. Cold-creams are really salves perfumed with one of the well-known odors which give them their names. Fat forms the basis of these mixtures and gives them their hygienic effect, as it imparts fulness and softness to the skin. Every well-made cold-cream should have the consistence of recently congealed wax and should yield to the pressure of the finger like pomatum. It should be noted that the addition of very thick glycerin will increase the effect of the cold-cream and improve its fine transparent appearance; but this substance must be added with great care, otherwise the mass will not possess the required firmness.

In making cold-cream, a mixture of wax, spermaceti, and expressed almond oil must be combined with an aromatic water and an essential oil. The first part of the operation is easy; the wax and spermaceti are melted at the lowest possible temperature, and the almond oil is added under continual stirring. It is more difficult to unite the other substances with this base; the aromatic water is admitted in a thin stream under vigorous stirring (or whipping, or churning), and when it forms a uniform mass with the contents of the mortar the remaining substances are stirred in and the still fluid mass is poured into the vessels intended for it, and allowed to congeal.

Cold-creams are usually sold in tasteful porcelain jars or vases. To guard against rancidity of the mass, the vessels are closed either with ground stoppers or with corks covered with tin foil. The essential oils should be added last, when the mass has cooled to the congealing-point; if added before, too much of them is lost by evaporation.

We give below several approved formulas for the preparation of some favorite cold-creams, and repeat that new varieties can be produced by introducing any desired odor into the composition.

Glycerin Cold-Cream A.

Expressed oil of almond2 lb.
Wax2½ oz.
Spermaceti2½ oz.
Glycerin7 oz.
Oil of bergamot¾ oz.
Oil of lemon¾ oz.
Oil of geranium¾ oz.
Oil of neroli150 grains.
Oil of cinnamon150 grains.
Rose water1 lb.

Glycerin Cold-Cream B.

Expressed oil of almond2 lb.
Wax4½ oz.
Spermaceti4½ oz.
Glycerin½ lb.
Oil of rose150 grains.
Civet30 grains.

Camphor Ice (Camphor Cold-Cream).

Wax2¼ oz.
Spermaceti2¼ oz.
Expressed oil of almond2 lb.
Camphor4½ oz.
Oil of rosemary90 grains.
Oil of peppermint45 grains.
Rose water2 lb.

Camphor Ice (Pâte Camphorique).

Lard2 lb.
Wax½ lb.
Camphor½ lb.
Oil of lavender½ oz.
Oil of rosemary½ oz.

This mixture, which is rather firm, is frequently poured into shallow porcelain boxes; sometimes it is colored red with alkanet root.

Camphor Balls (Savonettes Camphoriques).

Expressed oil of almond7 oz.
Purified tallow2 lb.
Wax7 oz.
Spermaceti7 oz.
Camphor7 oz.
Oil of lavender¾ oz.
Oil of rosemary¾ oz.
Oil of cinnamon75 grains.

Savonette is generally understood to mean a soap cast in spherical moulds; this preparation is, as a rule, likewise sold in this form.

Divine Pomade A.

Expressed oil of almond3 lb.
Spermaceti1 lb.
Lard2 lb.
Benzoin1 lb.
Vanilla7 oz.
Civet¾ oz.

The aromatic substances, having been comminuted, are thoroughly triturated with the other ingredients, and the mass is kept for twenty-four hours at a temperature of 50 to 60° C. (112-140° F.), when it is carefully decanted from the sediment, which is treated again with another mass of the same substances for thirty-six to forty-eight hours.

Divine Pomade B.

Beef marrow2 lb.
Benzoin1½ oz.
Nutmegs1 oz.
Cloves1 oz.
Storax1½ oz.
Orris root1½ oz.
Civet75 grains.
Cinnamon1 oz.
Orange-flower water2 lb.

The solid substances are macerated for forty-eight hours with the warm marrow, the liquid perfumed marrow is then strained off and mixed with the orange-flower water.

Cologne Cold-Cream (Crême de Cologne).

Expressed oil of almond2 lb.
Wax2½ oz.
Spermaceti2½ oz.
Mecca balsam7 oz.
Tolu balsam3½ oz.
Rose water14 oz.

Mecca balsam has been a rare article in commerce for many years. That which is usually sold as such is more or less adulterated or an imitation. The genuine was derived from Balsamodendron Opobalsamum Kunth.

Cucumber Cold-Cream A.

Expressed oil of almond2 lb.
Wax2¼ oz.
Spermaceti2¼ oz.
Extract of cucumber5½ oz.
Cucumber juice, fresh2 lb.

The cucumber juice is carefully heated to 60 or 65° C. (140-149°F.), rapidly filtered from the curds, and at once added to the rest of the mass.

Cucumber Cold-Cream B.

Lard6 lb.
Spermaceti2 lb.
Benzoin7 oz.
Extract of cucumber2 lb.

The benzoin is first macerated with the warmed fat for twenty-four hours, and this aromatic fat is treated in the usual manner.

Lip Salve A (Pomade Blanche pour les Lèvres).

Expressed oil of almond2 lb.
Wax4½ oz.
Spermaceti4½ oz.
Oil of bitter almond½ oz.
Oil of lemon grass75 grains.
Oil of rose75 grains.

Red Lip Salve B (Pomade à la Rose Pour les Lèvres).

Expressed oil of almond2 lb.
Wax4½ oz.
Spermaceti4½ oz.
Oil of geranium150 grains.
Oil of santal90 grains.
Alkanet root4½ oz.

The beautiful red color which distinguishes this preparation is produced with alkanet root; the mass, before the essential oils are added, being macerated for from six to eight hours, under frequent stirring, with the comminuted root, and then decanted from the sediment.

Cherry Salve C (Pomade Cerise).

Expressed oil of almond2 lb.
Wax4½ oz.
Spermaceti4½ oz.
Oil of bitter almond½ oz.
Oil of sweet bay150 grains.
Alkanet root4½ oz.

The procedure is the same as for pomade à la rose.

Almond Cold-Cream.

Expressed oil of almond2 lb.
Wax4½ oz.
Spermaceti4½ oz.
Rose water2 lb.
Oil of bitter almond¾ oz.
Civet30 grains.

Almond Balls (Savonettes d’Amandes).

Tallow2 lb.
Wax10½ oz.
Spermaceti7 oz.
Oil of bitter almond150 grains.
Oil of clove75 grains.
Oil of cinnamon75 grains.

This is usually formed into balls.

Rosebud Cold-Cream.

Almond oil2 lb.
Wax2½ oz.
Spermaceti2½ oz.
Rose water2 lb.
Oil of rose75 grains.
Oil of geranium75 grains.

Violet Cold-Cream (Crême de Violettes).

Huile antique de violettes2 lb.
Wax2½ oz.
Spermaceti2½ oz.
Violet water2 lb.
Oil of bitter almond150 grains.
Oil of neroli75 grains.