Essence or Extract of Rose (Extraits de Rose).

In commerce several sorts of essence or extract of rose are distinguished; only the cheaper grades are made by direct solution of the oil of rose in alcohol, the better grades are prepared only from pomades. As the rose is the noblest of flowers, so are these odors the most magnificent thus far produced by the art of perfumery, since they are approached in delicacy and fragrance only by the genuine extracts of orange flower and violet. The so-called rose waters (eaux de rose) are best obtained by distillation of fresh or salted rose leaves with water. The preceding formulæ will show that both extract of rose and rose water form important constituents of many compound essences, hence these materials require special attention. In the following pages we enumerate only those formulæ which are acknowledged as the best and furnish the finest product. As rose water likewise belongs among the rose odors we give directions for its preparation, and observe in passing that the precautions required in the manufacture of this one apply also to all aromatic waters (eaux aromatisées). The first essential to the production of a fine aromatic water is the employment of the freshest possible flowers; when kept in stock, chemical changes occur in the leaves which affect also the aromatic constituents and lead to a deterioration of the fragrance. Hence we urgently recommend to distil the freshly gathered flowers as soon as possible, even if the quantity on hand be small. Should this not be feasible, it is advisable to press the flowers immediately after gathering in stone-ware pots and to pour over them a saturated solution of table salt. A concentrated saline solution prevents decomposition by the abstraction of water; and thus larger quantities of flowers may be gathered and distilled with the salt solution. The majority of aromatic waters are prepared in this way, for instance, rose, jasmine, lilac, and others. They enter less into handkerchief perfumes than into various mouth and other washes, and cosmetics in general.

Rose Water (Eau de Rose Triple).

Rose leaves4 lb.
Water20 pints.

Mix them, and by means of steam, distil 10 pints.

The rose leaves are, of course, preferably to be used while fresh. If they are to be preserved for future use, they should be packed in stone-ware jars, and covered with a solution of common salt. This is poured off before distillation, but used over again for the same purpose.

Extract of Rose (Extrait de Roses Triple).

Rose pomade8 lb.
Alcohol5 qts.

Essence of [Oil of] Rose (Esprit de Roses Triple).

Oil of rose3½ oz.
Alcohol5 qts.

This essence is not so good as the extract.

Extract of China Roses (Essence de Roses jaunes).

Essence of rose (triple)2 qts.
Tincture of tonka½ pint.
Extract of tuberose2 qts.
Extract of verbena½ pint.

Extract of Sweet-Brier (Wild Rose) (Extrait d’Eglantine).

Extract of cassie, from pomade44 fl. oz.
Extract of orange flower, from pomade44 fl. oz.
Extract of rose, from pomade2½ qts.
Essence of rose (triple)44 fl. oz.
Oil of lemon grass¼ oz.
Oil of neroli¼ oz.

Extract of Moss-Rose (Extrait de Roses Mousseuses).

Extract of rose, from pomade2 qts.
Extract of orange flower, from pomade1 qt.
Essence of rose (triple)1 qt.
Tincture of ambergris1 pint.
Tincture of musk½ lb.

Extract of Tea-Rose (Extrait de Rosa théa).

Extract of rose, from pomade1 qt.
Extract of geranium, from pomade1 qt.
Extract of orange flower, from pomade½ pint.
Essence of rose (triple)1 qt.
Tincture of santal½ pint.
Tincture of orris root½ pint.

Extract of White Rose (Essence de Roses blanches).

Extract of rose, from pomade1 qt.
Extract of jasmine, from pomade1 pint.
Extract of violet, from pomade1 qt.
Essence of patchouly½ pint.
Essence of rose (triple)1 qt.

Extract of Twin-Roses (Essence de Roses jumelles).

Extract of rose, from pomade5 qts.
Oil of rose1¾ oz.