DIA. VIII.
Is a sack with three seams and with a straight front. As long as a cutter is able to cut a straight front, he will have little trouble to cut any shape of a cutaway for either sack or frock. As shown in the diagram, the height of the back above line 9 over the front is placed at 13½, the same as in Dia. [III]. This height of back will make the back plenty short for the normal form, and it may be called rather short, but any coat back is better ¼ inch too short than ¼ inch too long, for if short, it can easily be stretched at the center and over the shoulder blade, and such stretching, if done properly, will improve all such sack coats, because the center of the back as far over to the shoulder blade of any person are always longer than the sides.
On a frock coat, the shortness at the sides is reduced by a small gore between the top of sidepiece and the back, because of the curved seam, but on the more straight sack seam, said reduction can not so well be made, except by cutting the back shorter, and stretching it again behind, at, and as far over as the shoulder blade.
For a double-breasted front, add 1 inch to the front of Dia. [VIII]—cut a gore under the lapel, and add to the top and front of the lapel, whatever that gore takes up. Set the buttons back accordingly.
Dia. [VIII] is made for the same form as is Dia. [II], that is for a slender form and small waist, and if the waist is to be more full, or the armholes are to be quite loose for working coats, reduce the gore between the fore part and back one half inch clear down, starting at line 11¼. The armhole is represented close-fitting, requiring it to be well stretched, but it may be cut forward to the base and in every respect made like Dia. [II]. The same may be done to Dia. [VIIIa].
Dia. VIII.