DIA. VIIIa.
This diagram is made especially for the erect form, but may be used for the normal form by placing the depth of back at 12¾ above line 9. As the diagram is, it simply gives the result of the closing of the ⅝ fold, as shown across the waist in Dia. [VIII]. Erect forms usually require small coats in the back, and in the armhole, and for this reason, such forms should be cut one size smaller than the measure, and ½ inch should be allowed in front, to balance the size.
The front is given with a pretty large roll and the upper part may be used for a double-breasted sack, while meeting the front edge and the front angle in front of line 15 and by going forward 4 numbers at line 30. The gore between the back and sidepiece may be reduced to 2 at line 20 and to 1½ at line 30. The height of the back, above line 9 is 1¼ number shorter than on Dia. [VIII], and which is accounted for as follows: The fold across the waist which is obtained from above is ⅝, and the side of the sidepiece is stretched upward ⅝ on the forepart, all of which requires the back to be 1¼ shorter above line 9. If the sidepiece is stretched less, the back must be so much longer, and for a good many forms ⅜ stretch may be plenty, in which case the height of back is to be 12½.
Dia. VIIIa.