DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EXERCISES.
Review the divisions of the inch.
Patching Sampler.
Materials: Gingham 8" warp, 13" woof; white thread No. 60; needle No. 8.
It is desirable that each girl cut the two patches and the two pieces to be patched from the same piece of cloth, that there may be no difficulty in matching the pattern, when patching or when later sewing the two patched pieces together.
Fold the piece of gingham, eight inches by thirteen inches woof, with the warp into three sections, two of them eight inches warp by five inches woof, and the third eight inches warp by three inches woof. Fold the three-inch piece across the warp in the center for the two patches. Cut on the creases. Pin one patch to one of the large pieces, label with the girl's name and put it away for [Exercise No. 23].
Exercise No. 21—Hemmed Patch.
Materials: First section of Patching Sampler.
The hemmed patch is the strongest and the one most commonly used for repairing garments. The patch will not be noticeable if the pattern is skilfully matched. When matching stripes or plaids always turn on the line where the color changes, never through the middle of a stripe. Ten minutes spent on a paper pattern will prevent the mistakes beginners usually make in this exercise.
Trim the patch and crease a quarter-inch fold on the four sides. Place the patch in the center of the large piece (which we will imagine to be worn) and baste around it, matching the pattern carefully. Do not allow pupils to go any farther until the patch is basted on exactly right. Turn to the right side and cut out the part supposed to be worn by the following successive steps:
1. Measure one-half inch (or as near it as the pattern will permit) from the edge of the patch, using pins for marking the line where it is to be cut.
2. Cut out the center, leaving about one-half inch extending over the patch.
3. Clip the corners diagonally the exact width of the fold to be turned in. Take great care and do not cut in too far, as this will spoil the patch.
4. Turn in the edge, baste and hem.
5. Hem the patch on the wrong side.
THE MITERED CORNER.
Exercise No. 22—Mitered Corner.
Materials: Paper.
Teach the mitered corner on paper only. Have it done over and over until every pupil understands how it is done, and can do it alone, rapidly and perfectly. Ask pupils to bring paper from home, as almost any kind will do for this practice work. Have it made in hems of several widths. See description of "Miscellaneous" exercises, [page 79].
Exercise No. 23—Overhand Patch.
Materials: Second section of the Patching Sampler.
The overhand patch is used on very thin material, such as lawn, dimity or organdy, where strength is not required and where the two thicknesses of cloth around the edge of the hemmed patch would be too noticeable. The pattern should be as carefully matched as in the hemmed patch and equal care given to the corners. A paper pattern will assist beginners.
Fold the large piece of gingham with the four corners together and clip off the point from the center. The following are the successive steps for making the overhand patch:
1. Measure on each side of the center, with the warp, one and one-fourth inches and with the woof three-fourths of an inch. Mark with pins.
2. Cut out the oblong at these points (or as near as the pattern permits, observing also the pattern of the patch to be used.)
3. Clip the corners diagonally the exact width of the fold to be turned in.
4. Turn in the fold on the four sides of the hole.
5. Crease the folds on the four sides of the patch so that it will fit exactly into the hole, matching patterns.
6. Beginning near the middle of one side overhand the patch in, matching as you overhand. Do not baste.
The two patched pieces are to be overhanded together. Turn a quarter-inch fold on each with the warp, matching the pattern, baste together and overhand.
Teach the Overcasting on the Practice Piece and overcast all raw edges on the Patching Sampler.
Exercise No. 24—Basketry—Christmas Piece.[21][22]
This subject has such limitless possibilities and its success or failure rests so entirely with the teacher that it will be necessary for each teacher to prepare herself to teach it and decide upon the style, size and general character of the design of the baskets to be made by her class, allowing the pupils as far as possible to work out their individual tastes.
See chapter on "Basketry," [page 114].
Exercise No. 25—Napkin—Damask Hem.[23]
Materials: Damask 8½" × 8½"; white thread No. 60; needle No. 8.
See Description of the Damask Hem, [page 70].
Trim the napkin square. Crease a half-inch hem on the four sides. The corners are to be mitered, and this is more easily done by basting the side hems in place, skipping across the corners when basting. Turn out the corners and miter them. Hem the corners with the flat hem and the sides with the damask hem.
Exercise No. 26—Flannel Patch.
Materials: Flannel 6½" × 6½", patch 3" × 3"; sewing silk; needle No. 8.
See description of the Herringbone Stitch, [page 77].
Cut from the center of the large piece of flannel a two-inch square. Trim the patch square and place it over this hole. Baste at both edges. Teach the herringbone stitch on the practice piece, and herringbone over the raw edges of the patch. Turn one fold three-eighths of an inch wide on the four sides of the large piece, baste and herringbone stitch the raw edge. Keep the raw edges trimmed.
Exercise No. 27—A Pair of Sleeve Protectors.
Materials: Cotton twill 8½" × 11"; tape 36"; ribbon elastic 4"; white thread No. 60; needle No. 8.
A COOKING SET, CONSISTING OF AN APRON ([EXERCISE NO. 33]), SLEEVE PROTECTORS ([EXERCISE NO. 27]), AND A HOLDER AND CASE (AN ELECTIVE FOR [EXERCISE NO. 24]).
To cut the pattern of a sleeve protector: Cut an oblong eight inches by ten and one-half inches. Fold through the center the long way. Mark the top of the folded edge A, the bottom B, the upper right hand corner C and the lower D. Measure down on the folded edge from A four inches and mark E. Measure down from C four inches and mark F. Measure up from D five inches and mark G. Measure on the line B D three and one fourth inches from B and mark H. Connect G and H with a straight line. With E as the center and E A as the radius draw a quarter of a circle connecting A and F. Cut on the lines H G, and A F.
Cut the sleeve protectors from the pattern. Beginning at the center of the bottom and holding the wrong side of the cloth next to you, baste the edge of the sleeve protector to the line running through the middle of the tape. Make a tiny pleat in the tape at each corner so that when doubled over it will round the corners smoothly. Join the ends of the tape by folding back both ends and overhanding them together on the wrong side. Hem the tape down on the right side. Before basting the tape down on the wrong side, fasten the elastic in place on one side of the sleeve protector. The elastic is in two pieces, two inches in length. Place the first piece one inch from the bottom and the second piece three inches above the first. Baste the tape down on the wrong side and hem, leaving the opening for the other end of the elastic, which is fastened in place after the hemming is done. Lay the binding smooth over the elastic and stitch along the edge of the tape, through the elastic, to hold in place.
Exercise No. 28—A Garment Brought from Home to be Mended.
Ask every pupil to bring some article from home, in preference a garment, to be mended. There is no home that cannot furnish a garment that needs repairing. This is a practical application of [Exercises 21], [23] or [26], and is a valuable experience for the children.
Exercise No. 29—A Pin Cushion.[24]
Materials: These will be furnished by the pupils.
Pupils and teachers will plan their own designs, adapting them to the material furnished. The cushions may be of any size, shape or kind. Do not have the children incur expense, as small pieces of ribbon, silk or bright bits of many kinds of cloth can be made into attractive cushions. Hardwood sawdust, sifted, makes an excellent filling.
Exercise No. 30—Textile Fibers and Fabrics—Cotton.
Under the heading "Textile Fibers and Fabrics," [page 92], will be found subject matter which can be used in correlation with the geography, language and history work. The fifth grade subject is cotton. Many interesting collections can be made that will be instructive for the children.
PIN CUSHIONS TO ILLUSTRATE [EXERCISE NO. 29].
a. Cotton fabrics with their names and uses.
b. Pictures.
c. Cotton fiber in the various stages of manufacture.
d. Maps upon which can be located the countries producing cotton and cities noted for the manufacture of cotton cloth.
e. Compositions on cotton and allied subjects.