Electives.
[21] The round holder and case may be substituted for the basketry, or a blank book with paper cover or the folding envelope case may be made instead. See "Paper, Cloth and Cardboard Construction," [page 104].
[22] The pin cushion may be substituted for the basketry and the book cover, or the book bag, or the round holder given for [Exercise No. 29].
[23] A book cover or a book bag for carrying books may be substituted for the pin cushion.
A Round Holder and Case.
Materials: Unbleached muslin, 14" × 7"; bleached muslin 15" × 7¾"; strap 18" × 1½"; bias binding 25" × 1"; wadding.
To cut the Circular Pattern: Cut a square of paper eight inches by eight inches and fold it three times. Measure three and five-eighth inches from the point on each folded edge and once between these edges. Draw a curved line connecting these points and cut on the line. The case is cut from this pattern, a circle having a radius of three and five-eighth inches and the holder from a pattern one-fourth of an inch smaller with a radius of three and three-eighth inches.
The Holder: Cut from the unbleached muslin two circular pieces. Turn in one-fourth of an inch around both pieces. Place the wadding between them; pin and baste together. Overhand the folded edges. Quilt the holder in a simple pattern with the running stitch.
The Case: Cut from the bleached muslin two circular pieces. Fold one piece with the warp through the center and cut on the fold. Turn an eighth of an inch hem on each of the straight edges just cut, and hem. The pupils who work rapidly could design a simple decoration for the front of the case. This could be traced, or drawn with a hard pencil and worked with a coarse, colored thread in any decorative stitch, before making the case. Place the half circles on the large circle and baste around the edge. This will leave an opening of about half an inch into which the holder will easily slip. Make the strap by which the holder case is hung from the belt, by folding in the edges at the sides and across one end and overhanding together. The raw end of the strap is then fastened at one end of the case-opening, so that it will come under the binding. See description of the Bias, [page 79]. Teach the cutting and joining of bias pieces, first with paper and then with the cloth. In order to give the pupil this valuable experience cut the binding in three pieces and join them together. Stitch along the edge of the binding where it folds back against the strap. Slip the holder into the case.
A Book Cover.
Materials: Grass linen or Holland 15" woof by 10" warp; white thread No. 60; needles Nos. 8 and 5; luster cotton.
The Design: Start several weeks before the class is ready to make it, arouse an interest, and study designs for book covers. Ask pupils to bring from home books having good designs on the covers. Have them tell why they like certain ones and do not favor others. In a word, educate their tastes in this line before expecting them to originate designs. Do not attempt anything elaborate. Many artistic effects can be obtained by interlacing straight lines and these have the advantage of being easily worked. Paper cutting is an excellent medium for experimenting, if a unit is to be repeated or if curves are desired in the outline. For example, fold an oblong, four and one-half by seven inches, through the center both ways, and cut on a slightly curving line from the folded edges to the corner. Quite a variety of simple, graceful outlines can be made by slightly varying these curves, which, with a simple unit repeated around the center or in each corner makes an effective design. Have the finished pattern before starting the book cover. Trace on the cloth by means of the carbon paper. It will be necessary to crease the cover over the book before putting on the design, so that it may be placed just right.
To Make the Book Cover: Work the design with the outline stitch before sewing up the seams. Overcast the raw edges at the top and bottom of the cover and hem with a quarter-inch hem the two ends that fold into the book. The raw-edged hem, finished with the herringbone stitch, could be used in place of the plain hem, if desired. Turn in the top and bottom of the cover so that the book will slip in easily. Overhand that part which folds into the books to the outside, at top and bottom, thus forming the pockets into which the covers of the book slip. Do the overhanding on the wrong side and then turn it to the right side.
A Book Bag.
Materials: Galatea, kaiki or burlap 15" woof, 13" warp; two strips for handles 14" warp by 3" woof; thread No. 40; needle No. 7.
The decoration of the bag should be done before sewing up the ends. Very artistic effects can be obtained in the applique. See directions for the design of the book cover, [page 37].
Cut a three-inch strip from the length of the piece for the end pieces. Divide this into two pieces seven and one-half by three inches. Find the middle of one end of both end pieces and notch them. Fold the large piece with the warp through the center and notch at both ends of the fold. Turn in a quarter of an inch around the large piece and baste. Turn in a quarter of an inch across the notched end and sides of the end pieces. Place the notch at the end of one side piece to one in the large piece, right sides together, and pin in place. Overhand on the wrong side the two together across the end and up both sides. Put in the other end piece in the same way. Trim the end pieces even with the top of the case. Turn a three-quarter inch hem at the top. Before hemming make the straps for the handles by turning in and overhanding the edges. Insert both ends of one strap under the hem of the right side of the bag, two inches from the middle or four inches apart and the other strap on the left side. Hem, and fasten the handles to the edge of the hem by backstitching.
[24] A cover for a pin cushion affords a good application for the mitered corner. This can be made any size, square or oblong. Ornament with fine feather stitching and the star stitch.