XII.
Vienna, Austria, June 25, 1841.
I promised to give you some account of this beautiful city and the characteristics of the government and people. The registers kept at the police are so accurate and full that the history of a person from his birth, his changes of abode, his journeyings, in fact all his movements, are ascertained with perfect precision, so arbitrary and jealous is the government. No Austrian is allowed to leave the empire unless by making a deposit of five hundred florins, or giving security to that amount, to indemnify his return. The consequence is that we seldom see them in America. I find no Americans here at present. It is a fine country for a stranger to reside in, but he must not meddle with affairs of state—if he does so he must not be surprised if an officer hands him his passport with orders to leave the empire instantly.
The expenses of living are one third higher here than in Paris. You find no table d’hôte at the hotels, but merely take a lodging room, and then have your meals at the restaurant connected with the hotel, or where you please. The city abounds with cafés, which are resorted to by all classes. In these establishments you are almost constantly enveloped in smoke, as every one uses a pipe or cigars. There are some cafés in which smoking is not allowed.
At this season of the year, to escape the heat, a general resort is had to the different gardens, where you find innumerable tables spread in the open air under the trees, in the hearing of bands of music, and occupied by well dressed, orderly people of both sexes. The city is highly favored with shade trees.
Vienna has been pronounced by travellers the most dissolute capital in Europe. But in this I should think there was much exaggeration. There is, at all events, none of that open display of vice that disgraces Paris and London. Violations of the peace are said to be rare, and you seldom see a drunken man. No public gambling is allowed. In the public walks and gardens all seem to be alike merry and happy—feasting, dancing, and amusements being the order of the day. London is celebrated for its wealth, Paris for its beauty and gaiety, but Vienna for all these characteristics.
In a former letter I stated that I had visited the vault of a Capuchin convent, where the remains of the royal family are deposited. There are in all seventy metal coffins; the oldest is of the Emperor Matthias; the most splendid is that of Margaret of Spain, being of pure silver; the most interesting is that of young Napoleon, Duke of Reichstadt. A singular custom they have here in disposing of the remains of the royal family. The body is deposited in one place, the bowels in the cathedral, and the heart in a silver urn in the church of the Augustins. I visited the latter, and had the urn containing the young Napoleon’s heart in my hand, and also that having the heart of his grandfather, the late Emperor.
The imperial jewel office surpasses all sights of that kind I have ever witnessed. Here are riches unbounded. Among the prominent objects is the crown of Charlemagne, consisting of gold, diamonds, and precious stones, taken from his grave at Aix-la-Chapelle. It was used at the coronation of many Roman Emperors. There are also the crown worn by Napoleon at his coronation at Milan as King of Lombardy, the entire Austrian crown, necklaces, and jewels of all kinds. Six large rooms are used to display them, with many other articles, including robes, sceptres, orbs, and shelves filled with precious stones—the largest diamond in the world, weighing one hundred and thirty-three carats, gold vases, basins, the gold and silver cradle of young Napoleon, &c. Here is also preserved a variety of sacred relics, a piece of the holy cross, the spear and nails of the cross used at the coronation of the Roman Emperor, a piece of the table-cloth spread for the Lord’s Supper, three links of the chain of St. Peter, Paul, and John, and so many other objects displaying the superstitions of the people and the extravagance of the government, that a mere enumeration of them is out of the question.
The Imperial Arsenal is the finest I ever saw, far surpassing anything of the kind in London or Paris. It is an immense building, the court of which is filled with cannon of all sizes, the largest being twenty-four feet long, and carrying one hundred and twenty-four pound balls. A chain goes round the entire square where the building stands, hung in festoons of immense size; it contains eight thousand links, and was taken from the Turks, who had thrown it across the Danube.
In the upper rooms of the building are tastefully displayed one hundred and fifty thousand stand of arms, in all forms and figures, so as to present a beautiful decoration, while at the same time they are ready for use. Columns which to appearance support the halls, are all of warlike instruments. You see the large double-headed eagle, the arms of Austria, from twelve to fifteen feet long, with out-stretched wings, all composed of instruments of warfare beautifully arranged.
The coach establishment of the royal family is scarcely less magnificent than the great arsenal. I thought the coaches and equipages of the Pope of Rome must be superior to those of any other potentate, but those of the Emperor of Austria surpass them. There are about thirty large and small coaches, all glittering with gold. The largest of the number corresponds in size with an American stage coach; the wheels, pole, and all but the body, being covered with plated gold, the driver’s and footmen’s seats covered with scarlet velvet, the inside lined with the same material, and the body painted after the design of Rubens, with beautiful characters and emblematic figures, and finished in a style that cannot be excelled in beauty. On the top is an immense crown of gold, which serves as a grand finish of the efforts for grandeur. The painting alone cost thirty thousand dollars, the whole vehicle ninety thousand dollars! It is used but twice a year, and is one hundred and twenty years old. Such is some of the pomp and pageantry of crowned heads, and, after all, what wretched governments, compared with our enlightened republic, do they give the people!
The Emperor is, however, a plain man, beloved by his people. He gives audience one day in the week to all who choose to make application beforehand in writing. He usually sets the example of dining at one o’clock, and, as a consequence, that is the fashionable dinner hour in the city. He is a regular attendant on Divine service in his own chapel connected with the palace. But any citizen can go and see, at certain times, what is called his private side-box, where he does no business and observes few ceremonies.
Since my arrival here I have tested the qualities of the mineral baths, which are the resort of thousands at this season of the year. The warm springs contain large portions of sulphur, are strongly impregnated with carbonic acid gas, and are very extensive.
Among other curiosities worthy of attention, in a public square near the centre of the city, is the trunk of an old tree, the only one remaining of an ancient forest, which occupied half the ground now covered with buildings. It has several iron hoops to aid in preserving it, and as it has been the custom of apprentices on setting out on a journey to drive a nail in it by way of memorial, it has become so filled with nails that there is no place left to drive another. It has the appearance of, and is called, “the tree of iron,” and gives its name to the square in which it stands.
With regard to apprentices, Austria has some peculiar regulations. The law compels them to travel in the empire two years in search of employment, and to gain information. They can enter any city and apply to the head of a committee for employment. If none can be obtained they are provided for, but can remain only two days, before they must travel again. They are required to keep a journal of all the places visited and bring back testimonials of character. When their time has expired they return home and pass an examination; if pronounced worthy, they are then allowed to open a shop. In consequence of this regulation it is not uncommon to see fine-looking young men, with packs on their backs, come up to a coach door and beg for any trifle of money, which their necessities drive them to solicit, and it is a rule with the Austrians always to aid them liberally.