Twenty years around the world

by John Guy Vassar

XIII.

Pest, Hungary, July 2, 1841.

My last letter was from Vienna, which city we left a few days since for the capital of Hungary. We took a steamer on the Danube, about three miles from Vienna, and descended to Presburg, about fifty miles. The navigation of this part of the Danube is difficult, owing to the shoals and rapidity of the currents. On the route we passed the memorable battle-ground of Wagram. Traces of the works of Napoleon’s fortified camp on the island of Lobau, still remain. This narrow island—two and one-third miles long, and three-quarters of a mile broad—it is said contained one hundred and fifty thousand foot and thirty thousand horse, and seven hundred pieces of cannon, concentrated from all parts of Europe. We also passed the villages of Aspern and Essling, the scene of a memorable engagement in 1809, when the Austrians, under the Archduke Charles, gained a temporary but important advantage over Napoleon. Aspern was reduced to ruins; and scarcely any traces now remain of it; save the marks of cannon and shot in the walls of the churchyard.

We soon arrived at Presburg, the place of coronation of the king of Hungary, with a population of forty thousand, pleasantly situated on the Danube. The most conspicuous edifice to be seen here is the royal palace on the hill above the city. It was here that Maria Theresa, the youthful queen, at the commencement of her reign, when attacked on all sides, appeared in deep mourning, with the cross of St. Stephen in her hand, and girt with his sword, and delivered a speech, stating the disastrous condition of her affairs, and throwing herself on the fidelity of her people. The Hungarians could not resist the appeal, but in the excitement of feeling voted supplies to carry on the war, and summoned the wild tribes from the remote quarters of Hungary, to carry terror to all parts of the continent. Near the city an artificial mound is pointed out, about forty feet high, called Konigsburgh, to which every new king of Hungary has heretofore repaired on horseback, after his coronation, and from its summit made the sign of the cross in the air with the sword of St. Stephen, and waved it towards the four points of the compass, signifying thus his intention to protect the land on all sides.

We visited the Jews’ quarter, where, to the number of seven thousand, they are inclosed along the slope of the castle hill. They are restricted to that part of the city. The shores here are connected by a bridge of boats which rise and fall with the tide. Along the river may be seen, constantly, barges rudely constructed, mostly flat bottoms, with produce destined for the Black Sea, and descending rapidly with a current very like the Mississippi; others ascending, with supplies for the cities, or with merchandize, and towed by twenty to thirty horses, which traverse the banks, or up to the middle in water. We repeatedly passed fleets of water-mills, driven by the current, stretching obliquely in long lines from the shore into the middle of the river. They consist of a water-wheel suspended between two large boats moored in the line of the current; one boat, with a temporary dwelling, used by the miller. Heretofore, about the only use this mighty river was applied to, was propelling the mills. Steamers, to a limited extent, have been introduced within the last twelve years. The scenery along its banks is rather monotonous until you arrive at the town of Gran, numbering a population of twelve thousand: here is seen a chain of hills, the sides of which are planted with vineyards, producing some of the finest Hungarian wines. The town is celebrated as being the birthplace of St. Stephen, and for a long time the residence of the Hungarian monarchs, and was the finest city in Turkey until it was nearly annihilated by the Turks.

After passing many towers and battlemented walls, all full of interest as connected with the history of the country, we arrived at this city, one hundred and eighty-two miles from Vienna.

Buda, the old town on the right bank of the Danube, is the residence of the Palatine, and seat of government; and Pest on the left, connected by a bridge of boats one thousand two hundred feet long—both places containing a population of one hundred and twenty thousand. In 1838, a sudden rise of the Danube destroyed three thousand eight hundred dwellings. Since that time the city has improved rapidly, and I was agreeably surprised to see here, in almost the extreme Eastern part of Europe, a city that would compare with, and remind me of a new American city in many respects. The chief languages are the Hungarian and German, but I find the people in the cities of Hungary apt in the acquirement of languages. Many of them speak five languages. Their own is of an oriental character, differing from all European ones, and most difficult to acquire.

On crossing the bridge of boats, we passed without any demand being made; but observed that others were stopped, and toll demanded. On inquiry, the reply from a traveller was, that all persons who had good coats to their backs were allowed to pass free; while those who, from their costume, appeared to belong to the class of peasants of the poorer and lower orders, especially beggars in rags, are compelled to pay. The nobleman in every part of Hungary is free from all taxes. This is the Hungarian constitution! All the taxes of Hungary, which contains five millions of people, are wrung from the hard earnings of the peasants. The nobleman may have millions of acres, and immense revenues, and does not contribute a dollar. The excuse offered for this monstrous abuse is, that the peasant has a right in the land in consequence of his paying taxes, and that the tax is a part of the rent paid to government instead of to the lord.