WHEN TO BUY TEAS.
The Tea market fluctuating considerably, sometimes it will be necessary for the dealer to learn to understand something of the law of supply and demand, which, to a great extent, affects the fluctuations of the Tea market, before he can be sure of making desirable purchases. The dealer in Tea who not only understands the article he is dealing in, but whose knowledge and judgment enable him, in addition, to make his purchases about the proper time, possesses many advantages over his competitors, the value of which cannot be overestimated. For instance, each season, on the arrival of the first steamers from China and Japan, high prices rule for the earliest pickings, and if the market be bare of chance lots, these full prices are continued for some time thereafter. Then follows a dull, drooping market, from which the dealer derives no satisfaction, but should the demand at first be high and the stocks large, through dealers declining to purchase at full figures, prices rapidly decline to a more reasonable level, after which they then continue comparatively steady for the balance of the year, unless some outside causes should arise to create an advance. For these reasons dealers would do well to take advantage of the fine selections of Teas that arrive during July, August and September from China and Japan. In the purchase of India and Ceylon Teas it will also be found necessary to watch the new arrivals closely, as, after the heavy receipts during October and November, the market is nearly always easier, but when the arrivals are light the market is much higher. These facts are worth the special attention of dealers, as India and Ceylon Teas, although until quite recently comparatively unknown, now form some of the principal kinds for blending purposes.
With the great reduction in the importation prices and the keener competition among dealers, the retail prices of Tea have been brought down to a very low figure, and as dealers generally have educated the public to the purchase of poor and trashy Teas at low prices, it is not probable that the retail prices will ever again reach any higher figures, unless war or other similar cause should lead to a duty being placed upon the commodity. Yet notwithstanding these unprecedented low prices, the per capita consumption of Tea is comparatively very small in this country at the present time. One of the chief causes of this small consumption is directly traceable to the custom now prevalent among retail dealers of charging exorbitant profits on inferior Teas in order to make up for losses sustained on other goods, together with the forcing of poor Teas on their customers. These unwise and impolitic practices might be overlooked were it not for the greater mistake made of sacrificing quality to profit, which in an article of daily and almost universal use like Tea, is an important consideration, so that by rectifying this error and giving more attention to the careful selection of his Teas by the dealer, there is no valid reason why the consumption of the article could not be at least doubled in a short time in this country.
PART IV.
ADULTERATION AND DETECTION.
The Teas of commerce are subject to three principal forms of adulteration, viz.: Facing or coloring with deleterious compounds in order to enhance their appearance, mixing with spurious and spent or once used leaves, with the object of increasing their bulk, and sanding or adulterating with mineral matter to add to their weight. But it is against the two first most commonly dangerous forms of adulteration that the principal efforts of dealers and Tea inspectors should more particularly be directed, the latter having received some attention from analysts and chemists, but not to that extent which the importance of the subject merits.
Of the various forms of adulteration practiced in China and Japan, the facing or artificial coloring of low-grade Green Teas is perhaps the most prevalent and glaring, the material used for the purpose being usually composed of Prussian blue, China clay, gypsum, turmeric and indigo.
The process of coloring Green Teas is performed by placing a portion of the Prussian blue in a large bowl and crushing it into a fine powder, a small quantity of gypsum is then added, and the two substances ground and mixed together in the proportions of one part blue to four parts of the gypsum, both making in combination a light blue preparation, in which state it is applied to the leaves during the last process of firing. One ounce of this coloring matter will face or color from fifteen to twenty pounds of Tea leaves, imparting to them a dull leaden-blue color and a greasy appearance readily detected in the hand.
When Green or Japan Teas are heavily coated in this manner it may be readily recognized by their heavy leaden-blue color and oily or greasy appearance in the hand; or, better still, by placing a small sample of the leaves on a piece of glass and allowing them to rest there for some minutes, then on removing them the coloring matter, if any, will be found adhering to the glass, and its nature, whether Prussian blue, indigo or soapstone, detected by the aid of a small microscope. But when only lightly colored the best method is to put the leaves in a cup or glass and pour boiling water on them, stirring them up well meantime and then straining the infusion through a thin muslin cloth, and the coloring matter will be found deposited in the cloth or forming a sediment at the bottom or sides of the vessel into which they are strained.
What are known to trade as “Made Teas,” that is, Teas artificially manufactured from leaves once used, or tea dust, and a preparation of gum or glue to hold them together, and then colored and glazed to give them a pleasing appearance to the eye, are best detected by crushing the so-called leaves between the fingers or hands upon which they leave a yellowish stain, greasy in nature if spurious leaves. Or again, by pulverizing a small quantity of the alleged Tea leaves, and putting them in a cup or glass and pouring on boiling water, they will immediately begin to disintegrate and form a thick, gluey deposit at the bottom of the vessel, pasty in nature, the coloring matter adhering to the bottom or sides of the cup or glass.
Another form of adulteration practiced principally in China is the admixture of spurious or foreign leaves obtained from other plants, such as the willow, plum, ash, and what is known in trade as Ankoi Tea. Millions of pounds of such spurious Tea leaves are annually picked, cured and colored in the same manner as Tea in some of the Chinese Tea districts, and used for the purpose of increasing the bulk and decreasing the cost of genuine Teas, this form of adulteration, however, being only trivial when compared with the former one. Such spurious or foreign leaves in a Tea are best detected by their botanical character, that is, by the absence of the special structural marks, which distinguish the genuine Tea leaf from that of the leaves from all other plants in the vegetable kingdom, for while it is admitted that the Tea leaf bears a strong resemblance to those of the willow, plum and ash, it varies materially, however, in size, form and structure from them, the border of the true Tea leaf being more regularly serrated, the serrations stopping just short of the stalk, and the venations are very characteristic in the genuine Tea leaf, the veins running out from the mid-rib almost parallel with each other, but altering their course before the border of the leaf is reached and turning so as to leave a bare space just under it. So that in making an examination of a sample of Tea for the purpose of ascertaining whether these distinctive characteristics are present in the leaves, it will be found best to pour boiling water on to soften and uncurl them, and spread them out more easily on the glass as per the following diagrams:—
But in order to better detect the presence of spurious leaves in Tea, a better knowledge of the botanical formation of the true Tea leaf will be requisite, as Tea leaves in general bear a very strong resemblance to those of the willow, plum and ash, but vary widely in size and texture, being much smaller and more deeply serrated.
When infused and unfolded, the true or genuine Tea leaf is of a lighter-green color, the looping of the principal veinings being also very characteristic, while the spurious leaves are of a dark greenish-yellow color and very irregular in form when examined under the same conditions.
Sand and other mineral substances, such as iron and steel filings, are also frequently introduced into Tea with the object of adding to its weight, and are easiest detected by powdering a small quantity of the leaves and spreading the powder out on a piece of glass and then applying an ordinary magnet to the dust, so that if a quantity of the particles gravitate and adhere to the magnet the Tea is undoubtedly adulterated in this form.
All adulterations and fabrications in general, however, may be best detected by the following simple but effectual method: By putting a small sample of the Tea leaves in a wine-glass or thin goblet and pouring in clear cold water on them, and then stirring up or shaking well for a few minutes so that the Tea, if pure, will only slightly color the water, but if adulterated in any form a dark, muddy-looking liquor is quickly yielded, which, if next boiled and allowed to stand until cold, will, if spurious leaves are contained, become very bitter to the taste and almost transparent as it cools, while if the sample is composed of pure Tea only, it will be dark in color and pleasing in flavor under the same conditions.
PART V.
ART OF BLENDING TEAS.
The primary object and fundamental principle of successful and profitable Tea blending should be to obtain in a consolidated form what is known as harmony of combination, that is, strength, pungency, flavor and piquancy in the infusion, and at the same time to accomplish this result with the smallest possible outlay. In order to secure this end three important rules must be carefully followed: (1.) To learn the taste of the consumer. (2.) To ascertain what Teas will combine best to suit this taste, and (3.) To find out to what extent the component parts of a once-adopted and satisfactory blend may be varied in case of any difficulty to secure the same kind or grade of Teas for future use. These essential objects can be best attained only by the proper selecting, weighing and arranging of the proportionate qualities and quantities of the different varieties and grades of Tea in such a manner as to secure the best results with as little variation as possible, so that before proceeding to produce a specific blend or combination the dealer must consider well the descriptions of Tea that will amalgamate most satisfactorily as well as those that will not unite harmoniously, as Teas that are not improved by combination are certain to be deteriorated in blending.
The whole art in successful Tea blending being to combine body and pungency with some particular and distinct flavor in one in order to please a majority of that portion of the public for whom the Tea is specially prepared, and at the same time to arrange its constituent parts in such a manner that this most desirable result may be accomplished at a moderate cost to the dealer than that of any single higher-priced variety, and again to learn how far the component parts may be varied without seriously affecting its regularity, so that advantage may be taken of the cheapness of any necessary variety or grade in market during the season. But it must be understood at the outset that all combinations of Tea, as a rule, must depend upon the general character, grade and flavor of the Tea most in demand in the particular section or district for which they are intended, that special variety or grade forming the base or foundation of the blends prepared for it; that is, it must dominate the combinations. As, for instance, where Oolongs are most in demand the blend must consist of from one-half to two-thirds of that variety, and so on with Congous, Japans, India and Ceylon Teas, as the case may be.
Uniformity of quality and flavor in Tea can only be secured by intelligent and skillful blending, so that the advantages to be gained by the mixing of several varieties and grades of Tea together is so apparent that it needs no arguments to sustain them. But as only the most expensive Teas possess in any marked degree the best all-round qualities which go to make a thoroughly satisfactory beverage when used alone, it is only by intelligent blending that this most desirable result can be obtained at a moderate cost to the dealer. Again it is the dealer who understands the art of blending his Teas successfully who will invariably lead his competitors in the Tea-trade.
The taste for any particular-flavored Tea being an acquired and not a natural one, it necessarily follows that those consumers who have been accustomed to a certain flavor invariably want that particular flavor again, and so will be displeased with any other Tea that does not possess it, although it may be much higher priced and better in every way. Users of wine and other beverages have their likes and dislikes, one preferring a light or mild and another a strong or bitter taste, and so it is with most Tea drinkers when once they have acquired a preference for some particular-flavored Tea. This being a well-established fact among the Tea trade, it becomes essential for the successful Tea blender to study and learn what particular variety, grade or flavor of Tea his patrons have been accustomed to before attempting to cater to it, as not only is there a more divergence in the taste for Teas in the different parts of the country, but in cities, towns and even in localities the specific flavors in demand are so numerous and various that most of the leading Tea dealers have been enabled to mark out a distinct trade for themselves. In large cities this is a very wise and desirable policy to pursue, providing the blend or blends adopted and found satisfactory are kept uniform and regular thereafter, as it secures the return again and again of the same customer to the dealer, and thus keeps his Tea business not only steady but progressive. Even away from the large cities it is well to bear the importance of this policy in mind, but while at the beginning it may be found more advisable to keep fairly close to the established taste of the town or locality, a gradual change by the introduction of some special combination may be found the best course to pursue.
With regard to the best Teas for blending purposes, before proceeding to the study or preparation of any specific formulas, it will be well for the dealer to consider the varieties and grades of Tea that will not blend satisfactorily as well as those that will assimilate successfully with each other. In this case it is much easier to describe the negative side first, as Teas that will not be improved are certain to be injured by blending. One of the best rules to act upon as a guide to successful Tea blending is not to allow unclean or damaged Teas—even in the smallest quantities—to be introduced into any blend. This rule should be as rigidly adhered to in the common or low-priced blends as in the choice or high-grade ones, because never for a moment should it be forgotten by the dealer that if not improved Teas are certain to be deteriorated by blending, particularly by the introduction of inferior Teas. For this reason it may be well for him to consider the grade of Tea that will combine satisfactorily as well as that will not assimilate successfully with each other, as even though all the other Teas composing a blend be well selected and well arranged, the presence of a single damaged or inferior Tea will be found to taste through it.
All Ankois and Amoy Oolongs described by the trade as “herby” or “weedy,” and sometimes as “woody” Teas, should be rejected altogether, as should ever so small a quantity of these weedy Ankois be introduced into a blend the entire combination will be irretrievably spoiled. All “dusty,” “musty,” “stemmy,” tainted or otherwise damaged Foochow and Formosa Oolongs should also be avoided by the successful Tea-blender, as they will be certain to permeate and destroy any combination into which they are introduced, no matter how small the quantity. And all “musty,” “mousey,” “minty,” and “stemmy” Congou and Souchong Teas, as well as all artificially-made and spurious Scented Teas, must also be shunned.
All Pingsuey, Canton, artificially-colored, and what are known in trade as Country Green Teas, should be tabooed altogether, as they invariably detract from any blend in which they may be used. If cheap Green Teas must be had for blending, the surest policy is to select a true Moyune Hyson or Twankay of low grade for the purpose, as the commonest kinds of the latter will give better satisfaction in any combination of Teas than the finest of the former sorts. And all artificially-colored Japan Teas, as well as all those of a “fishy,” “brassy” or metallic flavor must be avoided in blending, as they, too, destroy the good qualities of the finer Teas forming the blend. And all old, sour or otherwise tainted India, Ceylon and Java Teas in particular, should not, under any circumstances, be handled by the would-be successful Tea blender, as there is neither profit in them for the dealer nor satisfaction to the consumer. In brief, select only good, clean sweet-drawing Teas for all blending purposes, as it pays best in the end.
The chief characteristics which distinguish fine Teas may be summed up in the following sequence, viz.: choice Amoy Oolongs are “full-bodied and toasty” in flavor. Foochows are “rich and mellow.” Formosas are “fragrant and aromatic.” Fine Green Teas are “sparkling and pungent in liquor,” while Congous are “fruity” in flavor and Souchongs are slightly “tarry.” Choice Japans of all makes are light in draw and what is known as “mealy” in flavor, while Indias are what is known as “malty” and Ceylons “toasty.” Scented Teas are “piquant” and possess what is technically termed a “bouquet,” but all Java Teas usually turn sour or rancid in a very brief time after being once opened and exposed to the atmosphere.