15. From Gibraltar to Genoa.

a. Through the Balearic Sea.

1000 M. Steamboats (see ‘Gibraltar Chronicle’, and comp. pp. [53], 114). White Star Line (from New York or Boston), two or three times monthly; North German Lloyd (from Southampton), monthly; Cunard Line (from New York), occasionally; Lloyd Sabaudo (from S. America), monthly.

On leaving Gibraltar (p. [52]) the steamer enters the open Mediterranean and steers to the E.N.E., generally at an accelerated speed, as far as Cape Palos, owing to the strong current flowing in from the Atlantic (p. [5]). Looking back, farther on, we enjoy in clear weather a splendid *View of the Straits, and especially of the coast of Morocco from Cape Spartel to the Punta de la Almina (p. [123]), from which peep the white houses of Ceuta. The Rîf Mts. (Jebel Beni Hassan, p. [123]) also remain visible for a time.

The Spanish coast with the Sierra Bermeja, the Sierra de Mijas, and the Punta de Calaburras (lighthouse) gradually recedes Far away to the left is the bay of Málaga. Off Cape Sacratif, with its lighthouse, we obtain a grand *View of the Sierra Nevada (p. [49]), in front of which rise the almost entirely barren Sierra de Almijara, Sierra Contraviesa, and Sierra de Gádor. Near the Punta del Sabinal (lighthouse) opens the broad semicircular bay of Almería; in the foreground rise the bare hills of Cabo de Gata (1683 ft.; lighthouse), with the Puerto Genovés beyond.

Steering now to the N.E., we pass the Punta de Loma Pelada, backed by the Frailes (‘monks’), two huge pyramids of rock; then the Mesa de Roldán, the bay of Cartagena (p. [125]), the Cabo Tiñoso, Cape Palos, and the island of Hormiga Grande, all with lighthouses. Nearing the Balearic Islands, we may descry to the left, in very clear weather, the coast-plain of Murcia and even the distant hills of Alicante, as far as Cabo de la Nao and Mongó. The vessel now steers round the Balearic Islands (see Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal), on the S.E. side if storms in the Gulf of Lions are expected, but usually through the bay of Valencia and the Balearic Sea. In this case we pass close to the island of Iviza, which is flanked on the S.W. (in front of the Atalayasa; 1559 ft.) by the bold rocky islet of Vedrá, and on the W. by the Bleda Islets and Conejera (with a lighthouse). On the N.E. point of Iviza is the lighthouse of Punta Grosa. In the foreground, farther on, appear the bold limestone slopes of the island of Dragonera, with a lighthouse (1191 ft.) visible for 40 M. round. Beyond it is Mallorca, or Majorca, the largest of the Balearic Islands, whose barren mountains, culminating in the Puig Mayor (4741 ft.) in the centre, are visible to their full extent beyond the little port of Soller.

From Cape Formentor (lighthouse), at the N.E. point of Majorca, the steamer proceeds due N.E. to the Ile du Levant or du Titan (lighthouse, visible for nearly 40 M. round), the eastmost of the Iles d’Hyères (p. [133]), which flank the coast of Provence. The island of Porquerolles also, the westmost of the group, is visible. In favourable weather the *Voyage through the Ligurian Sea affords delightful views. The steamers vary their course, but usually steer towards Cape Ferrat near Villefranche, past Cape Camarat (lighthouse), the beautiful double bay of Cannes (with the Iles de Lérins opposite to it), and the Cap d’Antibes. On a clear day Nice is visible in the distance. We then skirt the Riviera di Ponente (p. [118]), passing Ventimiglia, Oneglia, and Albenga, backed by the Maritime and the Ligurian Alps, snow-clad in winter and spring. On the picturesque coast between Nice and Bordighera the scenery changes rapidly. After the little bay of Villefranche (Villafranca), with Cape Ferrat (lighthouse), come Beaulieu, the grey rock village of Eze, close under the Grande-Corniche, and La Turbie, overtopped by the forts behind. We next sight the rock of Monaco, with its cathedral and huge marine museum, while among the houses of the little principality may be seen the less conspicuous casino of Monte Carlo. Beyond the olive-clad Cape Martin appears the bay of Mentone, with its superb circus of mountains, then Cape Mórtola, the Italian frontier-town of Ventimiglia, and, beyond the ravine of the Roja, the little town of Bordighera, with its cape and its dense olive and palm groves. Next come Ospedaletti, overlooked by the loftily-situated little town of Coldirodi, and San Remo, on a broad bay bounded by Capo Nero and Capo Verde. The coast is now less attractive till we are off Porto Maurizio, a provincial capital picturesquely situated on a headland, and approach Oneglia.

Near Cape Berta we gradually leave the coast, pass Cape Mele, with its lighthouse (742 ft.) and Marconi station for wireless telegraphy, and steer across the *Gulf of Genoa. On the left lie Laigueglia, Alassio, and, beyond the fissured island of Gallinaria, the little town of Albenga. Next, on a semicircular coast-plain, lie the villages of Loano and Finale Marina, and a little beyond them rises the Capo di Noli. Beyond Cape Vado we overlook the bay of the industrial seaport of Savona, as far as the headland of Portofino (p. [134]). In the background rise the Apennines and the Apuan Alps (p. [134]), snow-capped in winter.

Steering through the Avamporto and the Porto Nuovo, we obtain a superb *View of Genoa, rising in a semicircle on the hill-side.

Genoa.—Arrival by Sea. The passenger-steamers land at the Ponte Federico Guglielmo (Pl. A, B, 3; with custom-house, post, telegraph, and railway offices) in the Porto or inner harbour. Failing room at that pier, they anchor near it (landing by boat, with luggage, 1 fr.; embarkation 30, at night 50 c.), or they are berthed at the Ponte Andrea Doria (Pl. A, 3).—At the custom-house examination the facchino of the dogana expects 20–30 c.

Railway Stations. 1. Stazione Piazza Principe (Pl. B, 2; Rail. Restaur., déj. 2–3, D. 3–4 fr.), in the Piazza Acquaverde, the chief station for all trains, where cabs (p. [114]) and omnibuses are in waiting.—2. Stazione di Brignole or Orientale (Pl. H, I, 6), the E. station, Piazza Giuseppe Verdi, a subsidiary station for Pisa, Florence, Rome, etc.—Railway-tickets may be obtained also of the Fratelli Gondrand, Via Venti Settembre 35, and of Thos. Cook & Son (p. [114]).

Hotels (mostly in noisy situations and variously judged). *Grand-Hôt. Miramare (Pl. mi; A, 2), Via Pagano Doria, above the principal station, with terrace, R. from 6, D. 6, omn. 2 fr.; Bertolini’s Bristol Hot. (Pl. p; F, 6), Via Venti Settembre 35, R. from 7, D. 7, omn. 1½ fr.; Gr.-Hôt. de Gênes (Pl. f; E, 5), R. from 5, D. 6–7, omn. 1 fr.; Eden Palace (Pl. b; G, 5), Via Serra 6–8, R. from 6, D. 5–7 fr.; Gr.-Hôt. Savoie (Pl. s: C, 2), above Piazza Acquaverde, R. from 4, D. 5–6, omn. ½ fr.; Gr.-Hôt. Isotta (Pl. a; F, 5), Via Roma 5–7, R. from 5, D. 6, omn. 1½ fr.—Hôt. de la Ville (Pl. d; D, 4), Via Carlo Alberto, R. from 4, D. 5, omn. 1 fr.; Britannia (Pl. y; C, 2), R. from 3 fr.; Modern Hot. (Pl. v; F, 6), R. from 4, D. 5, omn. 1 fr.; Continental (Pl. 1; E, 4), R. 4–10, D. 5, omn. 1–1¼ fr.—Less pretending: Hôt. de France (Pl. g; D, 5), R. 3–4, D. 4, omn. 1 fr.; Hot. Smith (Pl. e, D, 5; Engl. landlord), R. from 2½, D. 4, omn. 1 fr., good; Central (Pl. c; F, 5), R. 2–4½ fr.; Royal Aquila (Pl. k; C, 2), near the principal station, R. 3–5, D. 5, omn. ½ fr., good for passing tourists; Impérial (Pl. im; F, 6), R. from 3½ fr.; Regina (Pl. q; F, 6).—Hôtels Garnis. Splendide (Pl. x; F, 6), Bavaria (Pl. z; F, 5), Excelsior (Pl. w; E, 5), R. in all these from 3 or 4 fr.

Cafés. Roma, Via Roma 15; Milano, Galleria Mazzini; both are also restaurants.—Restaurants (Italian cookery). Trattoria del Teatro Carlo Felice (Pl. E, F, 5), good; Cairo, Via Venti Settembre 36; Ristorante della Posta, Galleria Mazzini, moderate, often crowded.—Beer. Giardino d’Italia and Peyer, both in Piazza Corvetto (Pl. F, G, 5); Gambrinus, Via San Sebastiano (Pl. F, 5).

Cabs. One-horse, per drive (to the E. as far as the Bisagno, to the W. to the lighthouse) 1, at night 1½ fr.; per hr. 2 or 2½ fr.; each addit. ½ hr. 1 or 1¼ fr.; to Nervi or Pegli 5, there and back, with ½ hr. stay, 7½ fr.—With two horses, ½ fr. extra in each case.—Night is from 9 (in winter from 7) till sunrise.—Small packages inside cab are free; each trunk 20 c.—Motor Cabs (taximeter) per drive of 1200 met. (⅔ M.) 1 fr. 20 c., each addit. 300 met. 20 c.; at night (10 or 8 to dawn) one-fourth extra. Trunk 25 c.

Tramways (6 or 7 a.m. till midnight). The chief lines are: 1. Piazza Principe (Pl. B, 2), Piazza Acquaverde (Pl. B, C, 2), Piazza Zecca (Pl. D, E, 3; funicular to Castellaccio), Piazza Corvetto (Pl. F, G, 5), and Piazza Deferrari (Pl. E, 6; 10 c.).—2. Piazza Principe, Piazza Acquaverde, Via di Circonvallazione a Monte (station for Castellaccio at San Nicolò, Pl. E, 1), Piazza Manin (Pl. I, 4), Piazza Corvetto, and Piazza Deferrari (25 c.).—3. Piazza Caricamento (Pl. D, 5), Piazza Principe, Via Milano (Pl. A, 2), Lighthouse (p. [117]), San Pier d’Arena, Sestri Ponente, and Pegli (p. [117]; 55 c.).—4. Piazza Raibetta (Pl. D, 5), Via di Circonvallazione a Mare (p. [116]), and Stazione Orientale (Pl. H, I, 6; 10 c.).—5. Piazza Deferrari, Piazza Manin, Via Montaldo (Pl. I, 1), and Campo Santo (p. [117]; 15 c.).—6. Piazza Deferrari, Via Venti Settembre, Ponte Pila (Pl. H, I, 7), and Nervi (p. [117]; every ¼ hr., in 50 min., 45 c.); branch to the Lido d’Albaro (p. [117]).

Post Office (Pl. F, 5), Galleria Mazzini (new building in the Piazza Deferrari, Pl. E, 6; see p. [116]), open 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.—Telegraph Office (Pl. E, 6), Palazzo Ducale, Piazza Deferrari.

Steamers. Cunard Line (C. Figoli, Piazza San Marcellino 6), from New York, Gibraltar, and Genoa to Trieste; White Star Line (Piazza Annunziata 18), to Naples, Gibraltar, and New York or Boston; Nederland Royal Mail (Agenzia Olandese, Piazza Deferrari), from Southampton to Genoa, Port Said, and Batavia; North German Lloyd (Leupold Bros., Via Garibaldi 5), for Algiers and Gibraltar, for Naples and Port Said, for Marseilles and Barcelona, for Naples, Catania, the Piræus, Smyrna, Constantinople, etc.; Hamburg-American Line (Piazza Annunziata 18), to Naples and New York, also excursion-boats; Società Nazionale (Via Balbi 40), for Naples and New York (comp. R. 24); also circular tours to Cagliari, Tunis, Tripoli, Malta, Syracuse, Messina, Naples, and back to Genoa (RR. 25, 64, 27, 24); also to Palermo, Trapani, and Syracuse; to Palermo, Messina, the Piræus, Constantinople (Odessa and Batum); to Smyrna and Constantinople (RR. 27, 80); to Leghorn, Naples, Messina, and Alexandria (R. 67); to Naples and Port Said (R. 67); La Veloce (Via Garibaldi 2), to Naples and Teneriffe (for Brazil), and viâ Marseilles and Barcelona to Teneriffe (Colón); Italia (Via Venti Settembre 34) to Teneriffe and Buenos Ayres; Lloyd Italiano (Palazzo Doria, Via Andrea Doria), for Naples and New York (R. 24); Lloyd Sabaudo (Piazza San Siro), for Naples, Palermo, and New York (RR. 24, 26), and for Tarragona, Gibraltar, and Buenos Ayres; Compañía Trasatlántica (Giovanelli, Via Balbi, Salita Santa Brigida 2), for Barcelona, Lisbon, and Liverpool, for Port Said and Manila, and for Barcelona, Málaga, Teneriffe, and Buenos Ayres.

Bankers. Kirby & Le Mesurier, Via Carlo Felice 7; Thos. Cook & Son, Piazza della Meridiana, cor. of Via Cairóli (Pl. E, 4); Credito Italiano, Via San Luca 4; Banca Commerciale Italiana, Piazza Banchi 11 (Pl. D, 5).—Money Changers abound near the Borsa.—Bookseller. A. Donath, Via Luccoli 33.

Consuls. British Consul-General, William Keene, Via Assarotti 11; vice-consul, A. Turton.—U. S. Consul-General, J. A. Smith, Via Venti Settembre 42; vice-consul, J. W. Dye.

Churches. English (Church of the Holy Ghost), Via Goito (Pl. G, 4; services at 8:15 and 11 a.m., occasionally also at 4 p.m.); Presbyterian, Via Peschiera 4 (service at 11 a.m.).

Sights. Museo Chiossone (p. [116]), daily except Mon., 10–3, adm. 1 fr.; Palazzo Bianco (p. [116]), daily, Oct.-March 11–4, April-Sept. 10–4, Sun. and Thurs. ¼ fr., other days ½ fr., free on last Sun. of each month; Palazzo Durazzo-Pallavicini (see below), daily 11–4, fee ½–1 fr.; Palazzo Rosso (p. [116]), free daily, 11–4, except on Tues., Sun., and holidays.

Genoa, Ital. Genŏva, French Gênes, a city of 156,000 inhab., was a republic and a great naval power in the middle ages, rivalling Venice, but declined after the 16th cent.; in 1797 it became the capital of Napoleon’s ‘Ligurian Republic’, and since 1815 has belonged to the kingdom of Sardinia which is now merged in that of Italy. Next to Marseilles it is the greatest of Mediterranean seaports. The exports and imports in 1908 amounted to 6.4 million tons, and the tonnage of shipping to 14.4 millions.

From the pier, either the Ponte Federico Guglielmo or the Ponte Andrea Doria (p. [113]), we cross the harbour-rails to the Palazzo Doria (Pl. A, B, 2), once presented by the republic to Andrea Doria (1468–1560), the famous admiral of Charles V., and enter the Piazza del Principe (Pl. B, 2; tramway, see p. [114]), with its handsome bronze monument to the Marchese Deferrari, Duke of Galliera (d. 1876), to whose generosity Genoa is partly indebted for its new quays (1877–95).

The Via Andrea Doria leads hence to the E. to the Piazza Acquaverde (Pl. B, C, 2), the square in front of the Railway Station, where, amid palms, rises a monument to Columbus, who was probably born at Genoa in 1451 (d. at Valladolid in 1506).

To the S.E. from this piazza runs a narrow line of streets, the chief artery of traffic, adorned with superb late-Renaissance edifices, built chiefly by Galeazzo Alessi (1512–72), named Via Balbi, Via Cairóli, and Via Garibaldi, and ending at the Piazza Fontane Marose. Several of the palaces are well worth seeing, especially for the sake of their grand staircases.

No. 10, on the right side of the Via Balbi, is the Palazzo Reale (Pl. C, 3), built after 1650 for the Durazzo family, and purchased in 1817 for the royal house of Sardinia. No. 5, on the left, is the Palazzo dell’Università (Pl. D, 2, 3), begun by Bart. Bianco in 1623 as a Jesuit school. The *Court and the staircases are considered the finest in Genoa.

Farther on, to the right, No. 4 is the Palazzo Balbi Senárega; No. 1, on the left, is the Palazzo Durazzo-Pallavicini (Pl. D, 3), both by Bart. Bianco. The picture-gallery in the latter (adm., see above) contains portraits by Rubens and Van Dyck, painted during their visits to Genoa.

We cross the Piazza dell’Annunziata (Pl. D, 3) with the handsome baroque church of that name on the left, and the small Piazza della Zecca (Pl. D, E, 3; funicular to Castellaccio, p. [117]), and then follow the Via Cairóli (Pl. D, E, 4) to the—

*Via Garibaldi (Pl. E, 4), which is flanked with numerous palaces. No. 13, on the left, is the Palazzo Bianco; No. 18, on the right, the Palazzo Rosso; both once belonged to the Brignole-Sale family, but were bequeathed to the city by the Marchesa Brignole-Sale (d. 1889), widow of the Duca di Galliera (p. [115]), and converted into the two galleries named Brignole-Sale (adm., see p. [115]). Most of the other palaces were designed by Gal. Alessi.

From the Piazza Fontane Marose (Pl. F, 4, 5) the short Via Carlo Felice leads to the S.W. to the Piazza Deferrari (Pl. E, 5, 6), the centre of the city and focus of most of the tramway-lines (p. [114]). The Accadémia di Belle Arti (Pl. E, F, 6), on the E. side of the Piazza, contains the valuable Museo Chiossone (adm., see p. [115]), a collection of Japanese and Chinese works of art.

The busy Via Roma (Pl. F, 5) leads to the N.E. from the Piazza Deferrari, past (right) the Galleria Mazzini, to the Piazza Corvetto (Pl. F, G, 5), adjoining which, on the left, on an old bastion is the Villetta Dinegro (Pl. F, 4; 242 ft.; fine views), a beautiful public park.

From the S.E. side of the Piazza Deferrari, where the new buildings of the Exchange (Borsa) and the Post Office are in progress (Pl. E, F, 6), runs the broad new Via Venti Settembre (Pl. F-H, 6, 7), the favourite promenade of the citizens, leading to the Bisagno Valley and the Stazione Orientate (p. [113]). Immediately before we reach the street-viaduct we may turn to the right, cross the Piazza Ponticello (Pl. F, 6, 7), and ascend the Via Fieschi to *Santa Maria di Carignano (Pl. E, 8; 172 ft.), built by Gal. Alessi. The gallery of the dome (249 steps; sacristan 25 c.) is a splendid point of view. The Via Nino Bixio and Via Corsica (Pl. E, F, 8, 9) lead thence to the—

*Via di Circonvallazione a Mare, skirting the coast on the site of the old town-ramparts, named Via Odone and Corso Aurelio Saffi (Pl. E-H, 9, 10; tramway No. 4, see p. [114]).

From the S.W. angle of the Piazza Deferrari the short Via Sellai leads to the Piazza Umberto Primo (Pl. E, 6). On its N. side rises the old Palazzo Ducale, or palace of the doges (telegraph-office), approached by a handsome flight of steps. On the S.E. side is the ornate Jesuit church of Sant’ Ambrogio, containing a Presentation in the Temple and the Miracles of St. Ignatius by Rubens.

From the Piazza Umberto Primo the busy Via San Lorenzo leads to the N.W., past the Cathedral (Pl. E, 5, 6; San Lorenzo), dating from the 12–17th cent. (in the left aisle the fine early-Renaissance chapel of San Giovanni Battista), back to the—

Harbour. Following the tramway to the right to the Piazza Raibetta, we observe on the left, between that piazza and the Piazza Caricamento, the Gothic Palazzo di San Giorgio, once the seat of the great merchants’ bank of that name. Beyond the Piazza Caricamento the noisy Via Carlo Alberto (Pl. D, C, 4–2) leads to the N. past the Darsena, once the naval harbour, to the Piazza Principe and to the piers, affording a glimpse at the harbour traffic.

From the Piazza della Zecca (p. [116]) a Funicular Tramway (50 c.) ascends every 10 min. to San Nicolò (Pl. E, 1; change cars) and *Castellaccio, loftily situated. At the terminus (about 1025 ft.; Ristorante Beregardo, déj. 2½, D. 4 fr., commended) there is a splendid view of the Bisagno Valley with the Campo Santo (see below). About ½ M. to the N.W. rises the old fort of Castellaccio (1254 ft.), which commands an admirable survey of Genoa and the coast from Savona (p. [113]) to the headland of Portofino (p. [134]).

On the rocky Capo del Faro, between Genoa and San Pier d’Arena, rises the Lanterna, a great Lighthouse, 230 ft. high, from the foot of which we obtain another extensive *View. Tramway as far as the tunnel (No. 3; p. [114]).

From the Piazza Deferrari a tramway (No. 5) leads by the Piazza Manin (Pl. I, 4) to the N.E. to the Campo Santo or Cimitero di Staglieno; which rises above the Val Bisagno on the N. bank.—We may take the tramway or a motor-omnibus also to the Lido d’Albáro, a popular resort and sea-bathing place below the road to Sturla and Nervi.

Favourite excursions from Genoa are (tramways Nos. 6 and 3) to Nervi, 7½ M. to the E., on the Pisa line, and to Pegli, 6¼ M. to the W., on the Ventimiglia line. Nervi has a beautiful marine parade, and at Pegli is the Villa Pallavicini. (The entrance of the villa is immediately to the left of the exit from the rail. station; adm. on week-days except Frid. and festivals, 10–3; on Sun. and holidays 9–2; fee 1 fr.)—A superb view is obtained from the Portofino-Kulm (1477 ft.; Hôt.-Restaur., déj. 5, D. 7 fr.), on the Monte di Portofino (p. [134]). Motor-omn. direct from Genoa, Piazza Deferrari; also 4 times daily from Recco station, 13 M. to the E., on the Pisa line.

b. Viâ Algiers.

1086 M. North German Lloyd on alternate Saturdays, in 3 days (to Algiers in 25 hrs., fare 66 or 44 marks; thence to Genoa 33 hrs., fare 77 or 55 marks). The Hamburg-American and the Austrian Lloyd steamers sometimes ply between Gibraltar and Algiers. The Navigation Mixte usually sends steamers from Gibraltar to Oran (hence to Algiers by railway). Steamers of the German Levant Line and others also are available as far as Algiers.—Agents at Gibraltar, see p. [53]; at Algiers, p. [219]; at Genoa, p. [114]. See also ‘Gibraltar Chronicle’.

The vessel steers to the E. from Gibraltar, between the Spanish coast, which remains in sight as far as the Cabo de Gata (comp. R. 15 a), and the flat volcanic island of Alborán (48 ft.), the ancient Drinaupa, now belonging to Spain. The distant Sierra Nevada (p. [49]) peeps here and there above the horizon.

Off Cape Ivi (lighthouse), beyond the mouth of the Chélif (p. [208]), we sight the Tell Atlas (p. [169]) on the Algerian coast. We then pass the very prominent Cape Ténès (p. [209]) and, beyond Cherchell (p. [244]), the massive Jebel Chenoua (p. [242]), near which we survey the beautiful Bay of Castiglione (p. [237]), backed by the hills of Sahel and extending to Mont Bouzaréah (p. [235]).

By Râs Acrata (p. [237]) we near the coast, pass the lighthouse on the low Cape Caxine (p. [237]) and the picturesque cliffs of Pointe Pescade (p. [237]), then St. Eugène (p. [236]) and the church of Notre-Dame d’Afrique (p. [236]), and enter the harbour of Algiers (p. [217]).

Leaving Algiers for Genoa the vessel steers to the N.N.E., affording a fine parting view of the Bay of Algiers and the coast as far as Cape Bengut (p. [127]). Corsica (p. [143]) is visible in clear weather only. We near the Riviera di Ponente off Porto Maurizio (p. [113]) and soon enter the harbour of Genoa (comp. p. [113]).