The Mediterranean

by Karl Baedeker

16. From Gibraltar to Naples.

1118 M. Cunard Line (from New York) and White Star (from New York or Boston), each two or three times a month, in 3 days (fare 5l. 10s.); Orient Royal (from London), fortnightly; North German Lloyd (from New York or Southampton), three or four times a month (120 or 88 marks); Hamburg-American Line (from New York), once or twice a month.

For Gibraltar, and the first part of the voyage, comp. p. [52] and R. 15 a. Astern appears the majestic Sierra Nevada (p. [49]).

Steering to the E.N.E., we sometimes see the Algerian coast to the S., from Cape Ténès (p. [209]) to the Bay of Algiers (p. [221]) and the hills of Great Kabylia (p. [252]).

After many hours’ steaming we next sight the uninhabited rocky islet of Il Toro, off the S.W. coast of Sardinia, and the Golfo di Palmas (p. [129]), between the island of San Antioco and the bold Cape Teulada, the ancient Chersonesus Promontorium, the southmost point of Sardinia. We pass the Isola Rossa Bay at some distance; then Cape Spartivento (lighthouse), at the S. end of the broad Bay of Cagliari (p. [144]), which is only distinguishable in clear weather, and the granitic Isola dei Cavoli (lighthouse), lying off Cape Carbonara (p. [144]). The Sardinian coast now rapidly disappears.

The steamer at length nears the Bocca Grande, 15 M. in width, the chief entrance to the *Bay of Naples (p. [135]), between the islands of Ischia (left) and Capri (right), with Vesuvius in the distance. The S.W. point of Ischia is the picturesque Punta Imperatore (lighthouse). We steer past the S. side of the island, about 3 M. from the Punta Sant’ Angelo and the Punta San Pancrazio, then past the island of Procida and the hill of Posilipo, into the harbour of Naples (p. [135]).

From Naples to Genoa, see R. 24.

17. From (Lisbon) Tangier, and from Gibraltar, to Marseilles.

From Lisbon to Tangier and (1150 M.) Marseilles (Naples, and Port Said) there are regular steamboat services (from Tangier or Gibraltar to Marseilles in 3 days) by the German East African Line (E. circular tour), once in three weeks, and the Rotterdam Lloyd, fortnightly.—From Gibraltar to Marseilles there are the Peninsular & Oriental, the Orient Royal, and other lines.—Steamboat-agents at Lisbon, Tangier, Gibraltar, and Marseilles, see pp. [8], 98, 53, 120.

From Lisbon to the Straits of Gibraltar, comp. p. [5]; Tangier, p. [98]; Gibraltar, p. [52].

The steamer skirts the Spanish coast from Gibraltar to Iviza (p. [112]). The direct route to Marseilles is through the Balearic Sea (p. [112]) and the Gulf of Lions, where storms often prevail; but when the mistral, or N. wind, blows a more westerly course is chosen, past the volcanic Columbretes islets (lighthouse) and along the coast of Catalonia.

At length, to the S.E. of the Rhone Delta, and flanked with bare limestone hills, we sight the Bay of Marseilles, bounded by the Cap Couronne, on the left, and the Cap Croisette, on the right. We pass the island of Planier (lighthouse) and the islands of Ratonneau, Pomègue, and If, and obtain a fine view of the church of Notre Dame de la Garde (p. [122]) overlooking the city. The vessels usually steer through the Avant-Port Nord and the large new Bassin National into the Bassin de la Gare Maritime.

Marseilles.—Arrival by Sea. The North German Lloyd and German East African steamers anchor in the Bassin du Lazaret (Pl. B, 1). Those of the Générale Transatlantique Co. and Messageries Maritimes start from the Bassin de la Joliette (Pl. B, 2, 3). Most of the great British lines (P. & O., Orient Royal, Bibby, British India, etc.) have their own berths, as to which careful inquiry should be made. Note that most of these are a long way from the principal railway-station (1–1½ M.).

Railway Stations. The Gare St. Charles (Pl. F, 2), the main station, is the only one for through-passenger traffic. See the French Indicateur as to trains, several of which run in winter only; others correspond with the P. & O. and other steamers for Egypt, India, Australia, etc.

Hotels (mostly in noisy situations). *Regina (Pl. f; D, 3), Place Sadi-Carnot; *Louvre & de la Paix (Pl. a; E, 4), *Noailles & Métropole (Pl. c; E, 4), and Grand (Pl. b; F, 4), all in the Rue Noailles; Bristol (Pl. w; E, 4), Rue Cannebière, new. These five are of the first class (R. from 4 or 5, B. 1½, déj. 4–4½, D. 5–6 fr.).—Petit-Louvre (Pl. d; E, 4), Rue Cannebière 16; Genève (Pl. m; D, 4), Rue des Templiers 3, R. from 3½, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4 fr., well spoken of; Castille & Luxembourg (Pl. e; E, 5), Rue St. Ferréol, R. from 3, B. 1¼, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.; Des Phocéens (Pl. i; E, 4), Rue Thubaneau 4, R. from 3, B. 1, déj. 3, D. 4 fr., good; Continental (Pl. j; D, 4), Rue Beauvau 6, R. from 2½, B. 1, déj. 3, D. 3½ fr.—Near the Railway Station: Terminus Hotel (Pl. g; F, 2), R. 5–10 fr.; *Russie & Angleterre, Boul. d’Athènes 31 (Pl. E, 3), R. from 4, B. 1¼, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.; Bordeaux & Orient (Pl. k; E, 3), same boulevard, No. 11, R. from 3, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 3½ fr.—Hôtels Garnis (R. 3–4, B. 1½ fr.): Gr. Nouvel Hôtel (Pl. u; F, 4), Boul. du Musée 10, good; Modern Hotel (Pl. s; D, 4), Rue Cannebière 50; Riche et du Vingtième Siècle (Pl. v; E, 4), same street, No. 1.

Restaurants. *La Réserve, Palace Hotel, Chemin de la Corniche, of the first class.—*Isnard, Hôt. des Phocéens (p. [119]); de Provence, Cours Belsunce 12, good.—Cafés, best in Rue Cannebière and Rue Noailles.—Brasserie de l’Univers, at the Hotel Bristol (p. [119]); Strasbourg, Place de la Bourse 11.

Cabs (voitures de place, same fares by day or night). In the inner city, to the Traverse de la Joliette (Pl. B, 2) in the N., and to Boul. de la Corderie and Boul. Notre Dame in the S.W.: one-horse carriage (2 seats) per drive, 1½, per hour 2½ fr.; two-horse carr. (4 seats) 2 or 3 fr.; trunk 25 c. per drive, 50 c. per hour.—As overcharges are frequent, the tariff should be asked for.—Motor Cabs (taximeters for 3 pers.), 1 fr. for the first 800 metres (ca. ½ M.), 20 c. each addit. 400 m.; 3 fr. per hour.

Tramways (in the town, 10 c.; no transfer tickets). Among the chief are: from Place de la Joliette (Pl. C, 2) to Boul. Vauban (Pl. D, 7; Notre Dame de la Garde, p. [122]); from Quai de la Joliette to the Zoological Garden (Pl. H, 2; Palais de Longchamp, p. [122]); from Zoological Garden to Boul. Notre Dame (Pl. D, 6, 7; lift to Notre Dame de la Garde) and Boul. Vauban (Pl. D, 7); from the Cours St. Louis (Pl. E, 4) viâ the Prado (p. [122]), the Corniche (p. [122]), and Endoume, back to the Cours St. Louis (15 c.).

Transporter Bridge (Pont Transbordeur; Pl. B, 4, 5; p. [121]), between Quai de la Tourette and Boul. du Pharo, in 2 min. (5 c.).

Steamboat Lines. Peninsular & Oriental (Estrine & Co., Rue Colbert 18), from London to Gibraltar, Marseilles, and Port Said (RR. 1, 17, 67); Orient Royal (Worms & Co., Rue Grignan 28), from London to Gibraltar, Marseilles, Naples, and Port Said (RR. 1, 17, 23, 67); North German Lloyd (W. Carr, Rue Beauvau 16), to Goletta (Tunis) and Alexandria, to Naples and Alexandria, also to Genoa, Naples, Catania, the Piræus, Constantinople, etc. (RR. 22, 23, 24, 67, 77, 80); German East African (W. Carr), from Southampton to Lisbon, Tangier, Marseilles, Naples, and Port Said (RR. 1, 23, 67); Bibby (Watson & Parker, Rue Beauvau 8), from Liverpool to Marseilles, Port Said, etc. (R. 67); British India (G. Budd, Rue Beauvau 8), from Port Said to Genoa, Marseilles, and London; Rotterdam Lloyd (Ruys & Co., Rue de la République 29), to Port Said (R. 67); Messageries Maritimes (Place Sadi-Carnot 3), to Naples, Piræus, Constantinople, and Beirut (RR. 77, 75), also to Constantinople, Odessa, and Batum (RR. 83, 85), also to Alexandria, Port Said, and Beirut (RR. 67, 72); Générale Transatlantique (Rue Noailles 15), to Oran and Cartagena (RR. 19, 18), also to Algiers, Bougie, Philippeville, and Bona (R. 20), also to Tunis and Malta (R. 21, 63), and to Sfax and Susa (RR. 21, 64); Transports Maritimes (Rue de la République 70), to Gibraltar and Madeira (R. 3), to Oran (R. 19), to Algiers, Philippeville, and Bona (R. 20), and to Tunis (Susa; RR. 22, 64); Navigation Mixte (Touache Co., Rue Cannebière 54), to Oran (R. 19), to Tangier viâ Oran (RR. 19, 18), to Algiers and Philippeville (R. 20), to Tunis, Sfax, and Tripoli (RR. 21, 64), and to Palermo (RR. 21, 26); Chargeurs Réunis (Worms & Co., see above), from Dunkirk to Marseilles, Genoa, and Naples (for E. Indies, S. America, etc.); Fraissinet & Co. (Place de la Bourse 6), to Ajaccio and Bastia (and Leghorn); N. Paquet & Co. (Place Sadi-Carnot 4), to Oran (if required), Tangier, and the Moroccan ocean-coast (R. 14); Compañía Mallorquina, to Palma (Majorca).

Post & Telegraph Office. Hôtel des Postes (Pl. D, 3), Rue Colbert; branches at the railway-station (p. [119]), at the Bourse (Pl. D, E, 4), etc.

Tourist Agents. Thos. Cook & Son, Rue Noailles 11 bis; Lubin, Rue des Feuillants 14.—Banks. Banque de France (Pl. E, 6), Place Estrangin-Pastré; Crédit Lyonnais, Rue St. Ferréol 25 (Pl. E, 4, 5).

Consuls. British Consul-General, M. C. Gurney, Rue des Princes 8; vice-consuls, T. Broadwood, F. J. Hamling.—U. S. Consul-General, A. Gaulin, Cours Pierre-Puget 10; vice-consul, P. H. Cram.

English Church, Rue de Bellois 4; services at 10.30 and 3.30.

Marseilles, Fr. Marseille, the second-largest city in France, with 517,500 inhab., the Massalia of the Greeks and Massilia of the Romans, was founded by Greeks from Phocæa (p. [530]) in Asia Minor about 600 B. C., and soon became one of the greatest seaports on the Mediterranean. During the Roman period it vied with Athens as a seat of Greek culture; in the middle ages it belonged to the kingdom of Arelate, and later to the county of Provence, and in 1481 it was at length annexed to France. Being situated at the mouth of the great and time-honoured route through the Rhone Valley to N.W. Europe, it is the most important of French and of all Mediterranean seaports. The total exports and imports are estimated at 2926 million francs, and nearly 17 million tons of shipping enter and clear annually. The city is now almost entirely modern and destitute of historical memorials.

From the Bassin du Lazaret (Pl. B, 1) and Bassin de la Joliette (Pl. B, 2, 3), the southmost of the docks constructed since 1850 to the N.W. of the old town, we follow the Quai de la Joliette to the—

*Cathedral (Pl. B, C, 3; Ste. Marie Majeure or La Major), situated on a terrace. This is one of the largest and finest churches of the 19th cent.; it was built by Vaudoyer, in a mixed Byzantine and Romanesque style, in 1852–93. Adjacent is the Old Cathedral of St. Lazare, which is shown by the sacristan of the new church.

From the Place de la Major the Esplanade de la Tourette leads to the S. to the *Vieux Port (Pl. C, D, 4, 5), the Lakydon of the Phocæans, a deeply indented creek, where smaller craft only are now berthed. The entrance to it is guarded by the old forts of Grasse-Tilly and Entrecasteaux. Just inside the entrance the harbour is crossed by the Pont Transbordeur or Transporter Bridge (p. [120]); for the sake of the view we may ascend either to the trolley-way (buffet-restaurant) or to the top of the N. tower (steps up and down 50 c.; lift up 60, up and down 75 c.).

On the N. side of the Quai du Port (Pl. C, D, 4), the scene of motley popular traffic (pickpockets not uncommon), lies the Old Town, with its narrow and dirty streets, inhabited by the lower classes, including numerous Italians of whom the city contains about 100,000. This quay leads past the Hôtel de Ville (Pl. C, 4), an interesting building of the 17th cent., to the E. end of the Vieux Port, where begins the—

*Rue Cannebière (Pl. D, E, 4), which for ages has been the chief boast of the city. Here, on the left, is the Bourse (Pl. E, 4), erected by Coste in 1852–60.

This street, prolonged by the Rue Noailles, the Allées de Meilhan, etc., intersects the city from S.W. to N.E., and at the Cours St. Louis (Pl. E, 4), the chief centre of traffic, it is crossed by a straight line of streets running from N.W. to S.E., the Cours Belsunce, Rue de Rome, and Promenade du Prado, to the Rond Point (p. [122]), being in all nearly 3 M. long.

The Rue Noailles (Pl. E, 4), from the end of which the Boulevard Dugommier ascends to the railway-station, and the pretty Allées de Meilhan (Pl. F, 4) lead to the modern-Gothic church of St. Vincent de Paul (Pl. F, 3), with its two towers commanding a great part of the city.

A little to the left is the Cours du Chapitre, leading into the Boulevard Longchamp (Pl. G, H, 3, 2), a street ascending steeply to the *Palais de Longchamp (Pl. H, 2). This imposing Renaissance edifice was designed by Espérandieu, the architect (1862–9). The Ionic colonnade, with a lofty triumphal arch in the centre, where a picturesque cascade has been introduced, is flanked with two wings, the right containing the Natural History Museum, and the left the Museum of Fine Art (adm. daily except Mon. and Frid., 8–12 and 2–5 or in winter 9–12 and 2–4; closed 20th–31st Jan. and 20th–31st July).

The groundfloor contains sculptures. In the centre is the principal hall. The room on the left contains works by the Marseillais master Pierre Puget (1622–94); in that on the right is a model of the Monument to the Dead in Père Lachaise at Paris, by Bartholomé. The staircase is adorned with a wall-painting by Puvis de Chavannes (1869).

On the first floor is the picture-gallery. Among the older pictures in the central room are: 361. Nattier, Duchesse de Châteauroux; 788. Pietro Perugino, Holy Family; 914. Rubens, Boar-hunt (about 1615). In the modern department, in the room on the left: 430. J. Fr. Millet, Mother and child (1860).

The main streets of the S. quarter of the town are the Rue de Rome, which begins at the Cours St. Louis (p. [121]), and a little to the W. of it the handsome Cours Pierre-Puget (Pl. E, D, 5, 6), ending in the Promenade of that name.

A little to the S., on a bold rock of white limestone, is enthroned the church of *Notre Dame de la Garde (Pl. D, 7; 532 ft.), a great landmark for mariners, where we obtain the finest view of the city and its environs. Lift (Ascenseur; Pl. D, 7) from the Rue Cherchell (up 60, down 30, return 80 c.; on Sun. and before 9 a.m., 40, 20, or 50 c.).

On a fine day the traveller will be repaid by a visit to the *Chemin de la Corniche (comp. Pl. A, 6; tramway, p. [120]). From Notre Dame de la Garde it may be reached direct in about 40 min. by the Chemin du Roucas-Blanc. This road, partly hewn in the rock, and shadeless, affords fine views. It ends, near the Château Borély, which stands in a park and now contains the Musée d’Archéologie, at the—

Promenade du Prado, a favourite resort of the Marseillais, planted with plane-trees. A gay throng may be seen here on Sunday afternoons and every fine evening. We may return thence to the town by the Rond Point du Prado.

See also Baedeker’s Southern France.

From Marseilles to Naples, see R. 23.