83. From Constantinople to Odessa.
397 M. Steamboats (agents at Constantinople, see pp. [538], 539; at Odessa, p. [565]). 1. North German Lloyd (Mediterranean & Levant Service, RR. 23, 24, 77, 80), to Odessa (and Batum) every other Sun. evening in 1½ days (48 or 32 marks).—2. Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co.: (a) by the direct Alexandria line (p. [491]) from Constantinople Mon. (from Odessa Thurs.) foren., in 29 hrs. (80 or 50 fr.); (b) Two circular lines to Syria and Egypt (p. [466]), each every other Thurs. or Frid. aft. (from Odessa Sat.), in ca. 1½ days (same fares); (c) Anatolian Line (p. [571]) from Constantinople every other Sat. (from Odessa Mon.) aft., in ca. 1½ days (68 or 42 fr., without food).—3. Austrian Lloyd (Odessa and Nikolayev Line) from Constantinople every other Sat. aft. viâ Burgas (p. [562]) and Constantza (see above), in 2½ days (fares, 1st class 78 fr., 2nd class, without meals, 30 fr.). On the return trips (3¼ days) the boats leave Odessa on Wed. aft. and call at Constantza and Varna (p. [562]).—4. Società Nazionale, Lines X & XI (Genoa to Odessa), from Constantinople Thurs. aft. (from Odessa Frid. even.), sometimes calling at Burgas or Constantza, in ca. 1½ days (fare 60 or 47 fr.).—5. Messageries Maritimes (Marseilles to Odessa), from Constantinople Mon. (from Odessa Wed.) in 3 days (60 or 40 fr.).
For Russian money, see p. [565].—Russian time is that of E. Europe (p. [537]).
For Constantinople and the voyage through the Bosporus, see p. [536] and pp. [557]–560.
The direct boats steer to the N.N.E. across the Black Sea (p. [561]) all the way to the Gulf of Odessa (p. xxxiv). Opposite the mouths of the Danube and about 26 M. from the coast-town of Kilia we sight, on the left, the Isle of Serpents (Ruman. Ins. Serpilor, Greek Fidonisi), a bare islet of limestone rock, with a lighthouse, belonging to Rumania.
The flat coast of Bessarabia, with its numerous lagoons (Russ. Liman); is visible only in clear weather.
On the Dniester Liman, or great lagoon of the Dniester, lie the towns of Akkerman (the ancient Tyras) and Ovidiopol and the lighthouse at the mouth of the Zaregrad, beyond which we approach the abrupt edge of the great steppe of S. Russia, which is intersected by deep defiles known as Ovrági or Bálki. Important landmarks are the Kovalevski Tower, once the water-tower at Lustdorf (p. [568]), and the lighthouses on the promontory of Bolshoi Fontan, at the Great Fountain (p. [568]).
Nearing the Harbour of Odessa we have a good view of the whole sea-front of the city and of the series of villas (datshas) between the Great Fountain and Cape Lansheron. The steamer passes the Vorontsóv Lighthouse on the outer mole (p. [566]) and then anchors in the ‘quarantine harbour’.
Odessa.—Arrival by Sea. The examination of passports and luggage, which not even the passenger bound for more distant places escapes, occupies a considerable time. If the steamer is not berthed at the quay passengers are landed by small boat (40 copecks, with baggage 50 cop.; in stormy weather 60–75 cop.) at the Platonovsky Mole (Pl. E, 4, 5). Passengers going straight on by railway should take a cab direct to the main railway-station (70 cop., with pair 1 roub. 40 cop., incl. luggage; see p. [565]).
The Main Railway Station (Grande Gare; Pl. D, 7, 8) is the terminus of through Express Trains from Berlin viâ Oderberg, Cracow, Lemberg, Podvoloczyska, and Shmerinka (41 hrs.; fare 130 or 82 marks) and viâ Alexandrovo, Warsaw, Brest, Rovno, Kasatin, and Shmerinka (42 hrs.; fare 122 marks 95 or 75 marks 90 pfennige), and from Vienna viâ Oderberg and Podvoloczyska (35½ hrs.).
Hotels. *London (Pl. b; D, 5), Nikoláyevsky Boul. 11, with sea-view, R. from 2½ roub., B. 60 cop., déj. (11–3) 1, D. (3–8) 2 roub.; *St. Petersburg (Pl. c; D, 4), corner of Yekateríninskaya and Nikoláyevsky Boul., also with sea-view, R. from 2½, B. ½, déj. (11–1) ¾, D. (1–7) 1¼ roub.; *Bristol (Pl. i; D, 5), corner of Púshkinskaya and Kondratenko Sts., R. 1½–15 roub., B. 60 cop., déj. (11–2) ¾, D. (1–8) 1–2 roub.; *Yevropéiskaya (Pl. d; D, 5), Púshkinskaya 4, commercial, R. from 1½, B. ½, déj. (11–1) ¾, D. (1–7) 1¼ roub.—Hôt. de Paris (Paríshskaya; Pl. f, D 5), Púshkinskaya 8; Hôt. Passage, cor. of Deribássovskaya and Preobrashénskaya (Pl. C, 5), etc.
Restaurants at the *London, *Yevropéiskaya, *Bristol, and St. Petersburg hotels; also Alexander Park (p. [568]), in summer only, with beautiful view; Nikoláyevsky Boulevard (p. [566]; in summer), déj. 60 cop., D. ¾–1 roub.; Exchange (p. [568]), D. 60 cop.; Bruhns (luncheon rooms), Deribássovskaya 16 (in the court).
Cafés. Fanconi, corner of Yekateríninskaya and Deribássovskaya (Pl. D, 5; newspapers); Robinat, Yekateríninskaya, near Nikoláyevsky Boul. (Pl. D, 5); Liebmann, corner of Preobrashénskaya and Deribássovskaya (Pl. C, D, 5); Palais Royal, Lansherónovskaya (Pl. D, 5), café-restaurant, D. 50 cop.
Cabs (Isvóshtshik). To the Main Railway Station, with luggage, 35 cop.; to or from the Quarantine Harbour, with luggage, 70 cop.; drive in the town 20, per hour 50, each addit. ½ hr. 25 cop.; to Lansherón 30 cop.; to the Small, to the Middle, and to the Great Fountains 75 cop., 1 roub. 10, 1 roub. 50 cop.—Carriage and Pair (‘phaeton’) cost double the above mentioned fares.
Tramways (horse) from the Main Railway Station (Pl. D, 7) through Rishelyévskaya, Lansherónovskaya, and Khersónskaya to the Hospital (Pl. B, C, 3); from the Old Churchyard (Pl. C, 8) to a point below the Voyénny-Spusk (Pl. D, 4), every 5 min.; from corner of Preobrashénskaya and Malaya Arnaútskaya (Pl. C, 7) to the Little Fountain (p. [568]), every 10 min. in ¾ hr. (with branch to Arkadia); from corner of Kanátnaya and Skóbelevskaya (Pl. E, 6) to Lansherón (p. [568]), every 10 minutes.—Electric Tramway from the Greek Bazaar (Pl. 2; D, 5) to Lansherón (p. [568]), every 3 minutes.—Steam Tramway from Kulikóvo Póle (Pl. D, 8) to the Great Fountain (p. [568]), every 25 min., in ¾ hr. (15 cop. to the Middle Fountain, 20 cop. to the Great).
General Post & Telegraph Office (Pl. 24; C, 4, 5), Sadóvaya 8 (poste restante upstairs, to the left). Foreign letters 10, post-cards 4 cop.
Banks. Imperial (Pl. 1; D, 6), Shúkovskaya 9 (open 9.30–3); Chayés, Rishelyévskaya; Crédit Lyonnais, corner of Rishelyévskaya and Lansherónovskaya (Pl. D, 5; 10–4).—Money. The Russian roubel, divided into 100 copecks, is worth about 2s. 2d.—Money Changer. Gruber, Deribássovskaya (Pl. D, 5).—Booksellers. Becker & Wedde, Berndt, both in Deribássovskaya.
Sea Baths at Lansherón (stony), the Fountains, Arkadia, Lustdorf (more open sea), and other places.
Consuls. British Consul-General, Ch. S. Smith, Kanatnaya 31.—U. S. Consul, J. H. Grout, same street, No. 33; vice-consul, A. W. Smith.
Police Headquarters, Preobrashénskaya 38 (Pl. 23; C, 5).
Steamboat Agents. North German Lloyd and German Levant Line, McNabb, Rougier, & Co.; Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co., Lansherónowskaya 5; Austrian Lloyd, Regir; Società Nazionale, Vitale & Gallian; Messageries Maritimes, C. Muntz.
Theatres. Town Theatre (Pl. 29; D, 5), Theatre Square, operas and dramas; Sibiryakóv Theatre (‘Theatre’; Pl. C, 4), corner of Khersónskaya and Kónnaya, for operas and plays.—Pleasure Resorts. Hôt. du Nord; Alexander Park (p. [568]); Arkadia (p. [568]); Little Fountain (p. [568]).—Circus Truzzi (Pl. 4; C, 4), also a theatre of varieties.—English Club (Pl. 6; D, 5).
English Church, Remeslennaya 15 (Pl. D, 6, 7).
Sights (one day or less). Nikoláyevsky Boulevard and Monument of Catharine (p. [567]); drive through Yekateríninskaya, Preobrashénskaya, Deribássovskaya. and Púshkinskaya (as far as the Exchange); Alexander Park (p. [568]) and Lansherón (p. [568]).
Odessa (154 ft.), in the province of Khersón, is the chief commercial and industrial place on the Black Sea and the fourth-largest town of the Russian Empire (pop. 500,000, including at least 175,000 Jews). It is the seat of an archbishop of the Greek church and of a modern Russian University, and it is the headquarters of the 8th army-corps. It lies in 46°28′ N. lat. and 30°45′ E. long, and extends for a distance of about 4 M. over the elevated and treeless steppe. The winter climate is consequently very severe (mean temperature in Jan. 25° Fahr., July 73°, annual mean 49°). Its wide and well-paved streets, crossing each other at right angles and generally planted with trees, make it one of the most regularly laid out and most handsome cities in Russia. Attractive parks have been as it were wrested from the barren soil by dint of untiring perseverance and unstinted care.
The rescript in which Catharine II. ordered the foundation of the town was dated May, 1794, and its foundation-stone was laid by Admiral J. de Ribas in August of the same year. The new city, which sprang up on the site of the small Tartar and Turkish village of Chadshibéy, was probably named after the Sarmatian harbour of Odessos which is said to have lain in this neighbourhood. From 1817 to 1859 Odessa was a free harbour. It was greatly improved by the efforts of two of its governors, the Duc de Richelieu (1803–14) and Prince Vorontsóv (1823–54). During the Crimean war the town was attacked unsuccessfully by the British and French fleets in 1854, and the blockade by Turkish war-ships in 1876–7 was equally fruitless. The excesses of the revolution of 1905 were nowhere more ghastly than at Odessa.
The Harbour (347 acres in area), which in winter has sometimes to be kept open by ice-breakers, consists of an outer harbour (154 acres) and five inner basins. Effective protection against all sea-winds is afforded by a breakwater (1334 yds. long), the quarantine mole (1120 yds. long), and the so-called roadstead mole (710 yds. long), forming a continuation of the last. The so-called Quarantine Harbour (Pl. E, F, 5) is for foreign vessels; the New Harbour (Pl. E, 4), between the Platonovsky and New moles, and the Coal Harbour (Pl. D, E, 4) are for Russian traders; the Practical Harbour (Pl. D, 3, 4) is for coasting vessels. To the N. of the town, opposite the suburb of Peressyp, where a second breakwater and new docks are projected, lies the Petroleum Harbour.
Opposite the New Mole (Pl. E, 4) is a massive Flight of Granite Steps (193 in number) ascending to the level of the town. It is adjoined by a wire-rope elevator (3 or 2 cop.).
The finest feature of this part of the town is the *Nikoláyevsky Boulevard (Pl. D, E, 4, 5), a broad street ¼ M. in length, which stretches along the margin of the plateau above the harbour, commanding an unimpeded view of the sea. It is bounded on one side by a series of handsome buildings, on the other by four rows of trees and pleasant grounds. In spring this is the rendezvous of the fashionable world, just as the Deribássovskaya (p. [567]) is in winter. Towards the N. the houses end with the Vorontsóv Palace. The Imperial Palace (Pl. D, 5) is also the residence of the general in command of the Odessa Military District. At the entrance to the Yekateríninskaya a bronze statue of the Duc de Richelieu (Pl. 32; see above) was erected in 1826.
A little to the S.W., in Catharine Square, rises the Monument of Empress Catharine II. (Pl. 31; D, 4), by Dmítrenko and Popóv (1900). Round the pedestal bearing the bronze statue of the empress are figures of Prince Potémkin (in front), Count Súbov (on the right), Col. de Volant (left), and Admiral J. de Ribas (at the back). The monument is 35 ft. high.
From this point the Yekateríninskaya, one of the main streets of the city, leads towards the S. Just beyond the Theatre Square (see below) we turn to the right and follow the Deribássovskaya (Pl. C, D, 5), a short street with the finest shops in Odessa, skirting the Deribássov Garden, to the—
Sobórnaya Square (Pl. C, 5), with its pleasure-grounds and fountain. On the W. side of the square rises the Cathedral of the Transfiguration (Pl. 13), founded in 1794, in length 114, in breadth 46 yds., and 164 ft. high. It has a dome, rising over the centre, and a tower 266 ft. high. In the interior, to the right of the main entrance, is the tomb of Prince Vorontsóv (d. 1856; see below).—In the grounds to the N. of the church is a bronze statue of Prince Vorontsóv (Pl. 22; p. [566]), by Brugger (1863).—On its E. side the square is skirted by the Preobrashénskaya (Pl. C, D, 7–4), the longest street in the town.
To the N. of the Sobórnaya Square diverges from the last-named street to the N.W. the Khersónskaya, with the building of the New Russian University (Pl. 30; C, 4), which was opened in 1865 and contains archæological, natural history, and other collections (open on Sun. 12–2).—At the N. end of the Torgóvaya (Pl. B, C, 4, 5) is the Rússov Picture Gallery, with modern Russian paintings (shown on application).
At the end of the Sadóvaya is the New Bazaar Square (Pl. C, 4), where a market is held daily. The Market Hall is overshadowed by a massive building of 1847, the large Sryétenskaya or Novobasárnaya Church (Pl. 18), with five domes.
We return by Deribássovskaya to the Theatre Square. The handsome Town Theatre (Pl. 29; D, 5) was erected by the Viennese architects Fellner and Hellmer (1887).
A few paces to the W. of Theatre Square, at the S. end of the Nikoláyevsky Boulevard (p. [566]), rises the Town Hall (Dúma; Pl. 7, D, E, 5), an edifice in the Greek style, with a portico of twelve columns. Adjacent are a fountain with a bronze bust of the poet Alexander Púshkin (1799–1837; p. [570]) and a cannon from the British man-of-war ‘Tiger’, sunk in 1854.
In the square in front of the Dúma is the Museum of Antiquities (Pl. 3; D, 5), with objects found at the Greek colonies on the Black Sea.
From the Dúma the Púshkinskaya leads to the Main Railway Station (p. [564]). To the left, at the corner of the Kondratenko Street, is the Exchange (Pl. 5; D, 6), a tasteful erection by Bernadazzi (1899).
To the E. of the E. end of the Kondratenko Street, above the Quarantine Harbour (p. [566]), lies the Alexander Park (Pl. E, 5, 6; restaurant, see p. [565]), a popular resort where open-air concerts take place in summer in favourable weather. The Monument of Alexander II., a tall column of labradorite, commemorates a visit of that monarch in 1875. About ½ M. farther out is Lansherón, a sea-bathing place (tramway, see p. [565]).
From Lansherón a series of villas (datshas) and private gardens extends along the sea to the Little Fountain (tramway), with a garden-restaurant (band) and good sea-bathing, Arkadia (tramway; band), the Middle Fountain (steam-tramway, see p. [565]; excellent beach), and the Great Fountain (reached from the terminus of the steam-tramway by cab, 20–30 cop.), a village with the extensive Uspénskiy Monastery, the goal of an annual pilgrimage. These three villages take their name from a spring which once supplied Odessa with water.
Still farther to the S. is the German colony of Lustdorf or Olgino, with vineyards and frequented sea-baths (tramway from the Great Fountain in 20 min., fare 20 cop.; cab 1½–2 roub.).
See also Baedeker’s Russland or Baedeker’s Russie (not yet published in English).