84. From Odessa to Batum.
723 M. Steamship Lines (agents at Odessa, see p. [565]; at Batum, see p. [570]). 1. North German Lloyd (Mediterranean & Levant Service; p. [563]), from Odessa to Batum (and Constantinople) every fourth Monday. Passengers between the two Russian ports are not carried. Fares from Constantinople as at p. [571].—2. Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co. (direct Crimea and Caucasus Line) from Odessa to Batum every Mon. aft. or even. (from Batum every Sun. night), viâ Sebastopol, Yalta, Feodóssiya, and Novorossysk, in 4 days (1st cl. 41¾ roub.).
Odessa, see p. [564]. The Lloyd Steamers pursue a S.E. course, straight towards Cape Chersonese (see p. [569]).
The flat Cape Tarkhankut (lighthouse), the W. extremity of the Crimea (p. xxxiv) or Tauric Peninsula (the ancient Chersonesus Taurica), remains out of sight. On the S.E. the Yaila Mts., extending to the Chatyr-Dagh (4990 ft.), gradually come into view, along with the hilly district in front of them sloping thence to the rolling steppes in the N. part of the Crimea.
In clear weather we may descry to the E. Cape Constantine, the N. horn of the Bay of Sebastopol (Russ. Sevastópol), the best natural harbour of the Black Sea, measuring about 4½ M. from side to side. The higher parts of the town of Sebastopol, the chief naval harbour of S. Russia, famous for its siege (1854–5) during the Crimean War, also are visible.
As soon as we have rounded the flat Cape Chersonese (lighthouse), the S.W. extremity of the Crimea, we see before us the S. coast of the peninsula, rising gradually to the precipices of Cape Aiya.
To the left rises Cape Fiolente, the Parthenium of the ancients, the supposed site of the sanctuary of Artemis in which Iphigenia served as priestess. Beyond it, above the steep and wooded shore, is St. George’s Monastery, founded in 988.
In the distance, between bare rocks on either hand, is the narrow entrance to the Bay of Balaclava, supposed to correspond with Homer’s description of the Læstrygonian Bay (Odyss. X, 86–94). The picturesque little town of Balaclava, the ancient Symbolon Portus and the seat in the middle ages of the Genoese colony of Cémbalo, was the chief base of the British army in the Crimean war, famed for the gallant charge of the Light Brigade (25th Oct., 1854), commemorated by Tennyson.
Beyond Cape Aiya (1919 ft.), which in clear weather is visible for some 68 M., opens the Bay of Laspi, enclosed by the W. spurs of the Yaila Mts.
When abreast of Cape Sarýtsh (lighthouse), the S. point of the Crimea, below the Church of Foros and the Baidar Gate (1634 ft.; celebrated for its view), the Lloyd vessels pursue an E.S.E. course direct for Batum. The picturesque and exuberantly fertile coast of the so-called Russian Riviera lies to our left, but all that we can descry are the precipitous Cape Kikeneïs, the range of the Ai-Petri (4046 ft.), and the distant Cape Ai-Todór (see below).
The Russian Steamer calls first at Sebastopol (p. [568]) and beyond Cape Sarýtsh steers near the coast. The chief points visible are Mshátka, Miláss (recognizable by its four towers), Cape Kikeneïs (see above), and the lofty and abrupt cliff of Divo, below Lemény. We soon sight the superb château of Alúpka (p. [570]), with Mt. Ai-Petri, the white Moorish château of Julber, and Cape Ai-Todór, with the villa of Schwalbennest.
Beyond the headland Yálta is disclosed to view. In the distance to the N.E. rises Ayu-Dagh (‘bear hill’; 1854 ft.). We pass Oreánda and Livadia (p. [570]) and land at the mole of—
Yálta.—Hotels. *Rossíya (Pl. a), R. from 2–3, B. ¾, D. 1¼ roub.; Fránziya (Pl. c). rather cheaper; Hôt. de Yalta (Pl. d), in a high site, good, R. from 1½ roub., D. from 80 cop. to 1 roub.; Márino (Pl. i); Oreánda; Métropole; Grand-Hôtel (Pl. f), etc.—Restaurant in the public gardens D. ½–1 roub.
Cabs (good ‘phaetons’ and pair). Drive in the town (also to or from harbour) 20–50 cop. (luggage 10 cop.); hour 70, each addit. ½ hr. 30 cop.—Post & Telegraph Office, at the Oreánda Hotel (see above).—Sea Baths (10–15 cop.), on the Nábereshnaya (stony beach).—The Yalta section of the Club Alpin de Crimée arranges, from April to Oct., drives (fare 1½ roub.) and walks in the environs. In the club-house (Pl. 3; with museum and meteorological station), beside the police-bridge, the programme for the week may be consulted.
Yálta or Jálta, the capital of a district, with 20,000 inhab., most picturesquely situated in a bay formed by the spurs of the abrupt Yaila Mts. (p. [568]), is the most fashionable watering-place in the Crimea (mean annual temperature 57° Fahr.). The Nábereshnaya or Marine Esplanade and the adjacent shady town-garden (20 cop.) are the chief promenades.
To the E. of Yalta, and reached in 1 hr. by the upper road to Gursuff (see below), is the (3 M.) beautiful park of *Lower Massándra (carr. there and back 1 roub. 60 cop.; adm. by season-tickets which are issued free of charge at the director’s office on week-days, 9–12 and 2–5). Adjacent, on the N.E., is Upper Massándra, with a small imperial château.—To the E. of Lower Massándra are the vineyards of Maharátsh and (4½ M. from Yalta) Nikíta, with an interesting acclimatization-garden, founded in 1812.
In beautiful grounds about 2 M. to the S.W. of Yalta are the two imperial palaces of Livádia. Adm. on week-days, 9–12 and 2–5, on showing one’s passport at the director’s office. From the park of Livadia we may next go by the ‘Lower Road’ to the adjoining park of Oreánda (carr. from Yalta 3 roub. 20 cop.), which likewise is imperial property. Since it was burned in 1882 the castle has remained a ruin. A good view is obtained from the Krestóvaya Gorá (614 ft.) or ‘Hill of the Holy Cross’.
About 11 M. to the S.W. of Yalta (carr. 3 roub. 20 cop.; also local steamers), on the coast, lies Alúpka, with a beautiful park and a château in the Gothic-Moorish style, built by Blore in 1837 for Prince Vorontsóv (p. [566]).—About 9 M. to the N.E. of Yalta is Gursuff (carr. 5 roub. 60 cop.; also local steamers), in a charming situation, with good sea-baths. In the former château of the Duc de Richelieu Púshkin (p. [567]) lived in 1820.
Beyond Yalta the direct Russian steamers continue their voyage along the coast, which farther on becomes increasingly level, to Feodossiya or Theodosia (p. xxxiv), the chief commercial port of the Crimea. Hence they steer to the S.E., leaving the Straits of Kertch (see below) to the left, to the beautifully situated seaport of Novorossysk. From the last port to Batum the steamers follow a similar course to that of the Lloyd Steamers described below.
See also Baedeker’s Russland or Russie (no English edition).
The Lloyd Steamer now makes for the open sea, leaving the Straits of Kertch or Yeníkale (the ancient Cimmerian Bosporus), the entrance to the Sea of Azov (p. [561]), far to port (left).
The S.W. slope of the Great Caucasus, the mighty frontier-wall between Europe and Asia, which has been almost uninhabited since the emigration of the Circassians in 1865, does not become visible until we are abreast of Gagry. When we are nearly opposite the mouth of the Ingúr we may descry in clear weather the two snowy domes of the volcanic Elbruz, or, as it is sometimes called, Elburz (18,468 ft.), the chief height of the Central Caucasus.
As the boat holds its course in the direction of Batum the Ajara Mts. (Lazistan, p. [571]), belonging to the Little Caucasus (‘Armenian Highlands’) rise to the E., separated from the Great Caucasus by the ancient land of Colchis, the marshy plain of the Rion (the ancient Phasis). The Harbour of Batum, opening to the N., is inadequately sheltered from the W. and S.W. storms of winter by Cape Batum (lighthouse).
Batum.—Arrival. All the steamers are moored alongside the quay; hand baggage 5 cop., heavy luggage 10 cop. each package.
Hotels. Fránziya, Micháilovskaya; Impérial, Kutaïskaya, R. 1½–10, B. ½ roub.; Oriental, Nábereshnaya.—Post & Telegraph Office, Maríinsky Prospekt.—Cab from harbour or station to town 40, drive 25, hour 60 cop.
Consuls. British, P. W. J. Stevens.—United States, A. Heingartner; vice-consul, E. Mattievich.
Steamboat Agents. North German Lloyd, Schutz & Zimmermann; Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co., Arkadaksky; Austrian Lloyd, Marcetich; Messageries Maritimes, De Cortenze; Società Nazionale, Valazzi; N. Paquet & Co., Victor d’Arnaud.
Batum, a town of ca. 30,000 inhab., was the ancient Bathys, a place of little importance. In modern times, under the name of Bathumi, it was a Turkish frontier-fortress down to 1878. By the terms of the Berlin Congress of that year it passed to Russia (along with Kars), and it is now the strongly-fortified capital of the Russian province of its own name. The town, which has the most important harbour on the E. coast of the Black Sea, owes its present prosperity to the construction of the railway to Bakú, on the Caspian Sea. The staples of its trade are petroleum products (annual exports 1¼ million tons), manganese ore, liquorice, silk-cocoons, and wool. Along the beach runs the Boulevard, above which to the S. rises the Alexander Névsky Cathedral, built in 1903. About ¾ M. to the S. lies the Railway Station, and near by is a Roman Catholic Church. In the W. part of the town, on Lake Nurie, is the Alexander Park, with subtropical vegetation.
To the S.W. of the town, beyond Cape Batum, is the marshy and fever-stricken Delta of the Chorokh.
See also Baedeker’s Russland or Russie (no English edition).