85. From Batum to Constantinople.
726 M. Steamship Lines (agents at Batum, see p. [570]; at Constantinople, see pp. [538], 539). 1. North German Lloyd (Mediterranean & Levant Service; p. [563]), from Batum every alternate Sat., in 4 days, viâ Trebizond, Samsun, and (if required) Ineboli (fare 80 or 56 marks).—2. Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co. (Anatolian line), from Batum every other Thurs. night (from Constantinople Frid. aft.) viâ Rizeh, Trebizond, Kerasun, Ordu, Samsun, Sinope, and Ineboli, in 6½ days (fare 112 or 84 fr., food extra).—3. Austrian Lloyd, from Batum Frid. midnight (from Constantinople Sat. aft.) viâ Rizeh, Trebizond, Kerasun, Samsun, and Ineboli, in 5½ days (fare 130; 2nd class, food extra, 48 fr.).—4. Messageries Maritimes, from Batum every second Wed. evening (from Constantinople Mon.) viâ Trebizond and Samsun, in 5 days (fare 100 or 60 fr.).—5. N. Paquet & Co., from Batum every second Thurs. (from Constantinople Tues.) viâ Trebizond and Samsun, in 5 days (fare 100 or 60 fr.).—6. Società Nazionale (Line IX), from Batum every other Tues. even, (from Constantinople Thurs. aft.) viâ Trebizond, Kerasun, Samsun, and Ineboli, in 4½–5 days (fares 93 fr. 70, 62 fr. 50 c.).
Most of the Austrian, French, and Italian vessels are small old cargo-boats. The S. coast of the Black Sea is often visited by dangerous tempests, especially in winter.—For Turkish money, see p. [536].
Batum, see p. [570]. Long after starting we continue to enjoy, in clear weather, a grand *View of the snow-clad central chain of the Great Caucasus (p. [570]). The rugged mountains of the Lazistan, covered with snow in winter, become visible as far as the Kolat Dagh (about 7540 ft.) and are equally impressive. There are numerous small towns on the coast, but the only one called at by the steamers is Rizeh (the ancient Rhizūs), the first seaport beyond the Turkish frontier, which is almost hidden by a forest of fruit-trees.
We next pass the headland Erekli Burnu. As we near Trebizond we see the delta of the brook Piksit Su or Matshka (the ancient Pyxites), where, according to a vague tradition, the ten thousand Greeks under Xenophon encamped in 400 B.C. on their retreat from Persia (comp. pp. [574], 576).
Trebizond.—Arrival. The landing, which takes place at the pier adjoining the custom-house (Pl. C, 1), is often attended by vexatious delays and also, if there is a strong wind blowing from the sea, by considerable difficulty.
Hotels. Pens. Marengo (Pl. b; B, 1), on the E. hill, with fine views, well spoken of; Hôt. Suisse (Pl. a; B, 1), on the Hurriyet Meïdan; pens. in both 6–10 fr.
Austrian Post Office (Pl. B, 1), near the Hurriyet Meïdan.—Steamboat Agents, at the harbour.—Banks. Banque Ottomane (p. [539]); Banque d’Athènes.
Consulates. British (Pl. 15; B, 2): consul, H. Z. Longworth.—United States (Pl. 16; B, 2): consul, M. A. Jewett; vice-consul, I. Montesanto.
Trebizond, the Turkish Tirabson or Tarábosan, the seat of the governor-general of the viláyet of the same name and of a Greek and an Armenian archbishop, is, next to Samsun, the most important seaport on the N. coast of Asia Minor. It contains 35,000 inhab., including Greeks, Turks, Armenians, Persians, and Lazis, who speak a dialect resembling the languages of the S. Caucasus. Trapezūs, founded by Milesians from Sinope (7th cent. B.C.?), was named after the ‘table’-shaped (‘trápeza’) castle-hill (p. [573]). Next to the mother-city it was the most important Greek colony in what afterwards became the kingdom of Pontus (p. [575]), and was the seat of a governor in the Byzantine period. After the conquest of Constantinople by the Crusaders (p. [542]) it became the capital of the small Greek empire of the Comneni, the last of whom, David Comnenus, was overthrown by Mohammed II. (p. [542]) in 1461.
Trebizond is picturesquely situated on three low ridges at the N. base of Boz Tepeh (800 ft.), an outlier of the mountains extending thence to the S. to the Kolat Dagh (p. [571]). The small harbour facilitates trade with the towns of the hinterland (e. g. Gümüshkhaneh), but it is only partly protected against sea-winds by the pier at Kalmek Point and a new breakwater at the headland of Eleusa. Notwithstanding the competition of Batum and the Trans-Caucasian railway Trebizond still carries on a considerable camel-caravan traffic with the Armenian highlands (Erzerum) and N. Persia (Tabriz).
The trade and industry of Trebizond are concentrated in the new town on the East Hill, above the harbour. Beyond Kalmek Point, on which are a battery, a lighthouse, and the Güzel Seraï (Pl. B, C, 1; now artillery-barracks), lies the Greek quarter, which encloses the Frank quarter, the seat of the European wholesale merchants. On a small promontory projecting from the N. shore rises the Greek Cathedral (Pl. 6; B, 1).
A little to the N. of the Hurriyet Meïdan, with its pleasure-grounds (Pl. 12; B, 1), runs one of the main streets leading to the W. to the Bazaars (Pl. A, B, 1), or market quarter, which presents a lively scene, especially in the early morning. The most interesting stalls are those of the coppersmiths and of the native goldsmiths, whose works in gold and silver filigree are sold by weight.
Key to Numbers. Cemeteries (all C, 2): 1. Armenian-Catholic; 2. Greek; 3. Latin (see p. [475]); 4. Protestant.—Mosques and Churches: 5. Aï Yaneh, B 1; 6. Greek Cathedral, B 1; 7. Great Mosque, A, B 1; 8. Kathunieh Mosque, A 1; 9. Orta Hissar Jamissi, A 1; 10. St. Basilius, B 1.—11. Yeni Juma Jamissi (St. Eugenius), A 2; 12. Grounds in the Hurriyet Meïdan, B 1.—13. Seraï, A 1.—14. Zendan Kapusí, A 1.—15. British Consulate, B 2.—16. United States Consulate, B 2.
Near the Aï Yaneh Church (Pl. 5; B, 1), to the S. of the Bazaars, we leave behind us the Usun Sokak and pass over a Viaduct (fine view) leading to the old Castle Hill, rising between the two ravines of the Kuzgun Deresí and the Iskeleboz Deresí. This is now occupied by the Turkish town proper and contains the ruins of the Byzantine Town Walls.
The chief artery of traffic leads through the Orta Hissar (Pl. A, 1, 2) or older and central part of the castle. It passes (left) the Seraï (Pl. 13; A, 1), the seat of the governor-general, and (right) the mosque of Orta Hissar Jamissi (Pl. 9; A, 1), once the church of Panagia Chrysokephalos, said to have been founded by Justinian.
At the Seraï a street diverging to the left leads to the Yokari Hissar (Pl. A, 2), or old upper castle, with the ruins of the imperial palace of the Comneni.—On the N. side of the Seraï various crooked lanes descend through the Ashagi Hissar (Pl. A, 1), or lower castle, the wall of which projects over the W. ravine, to the Fishing Harbour, the ancient harbour of Trapezūs, where remains of an almost semicircular quay are still visible under water The appearance of the fishing-boats is very quaint.
Through the Zendan Kapusí (Pl. 14; A, 1), or W. gate, we pass from the Seraï over a second viaduct to the West Hill. Here lie (on the left) the picturesque Turkish Cemetery and a suburb occupied by Turks and Greeks. Beyond the infantry-barracks, at the W. end of this suburb, rises the old Aya Sóphia Church, now a mosque.
Beautiful *Views are obtained from the caves of Kirk Batal (Pl. B, C, 2), on the slope of Boz Tepeh (p. [572]), above the Greek cemetery, and from the high-lying Greek nunnery of Panaya Theoskepastos (Turk. Kizlar Monastir; Pl. B, 2).
A pleasant Drive (or walk or ride) may be taken to the hill of Suk-Su in the S.W. with the summer-residences of the wealthier Greeks; or to the W. along the coast to (1 hr.) Platana (see below; motor-omn. 15 pias.; carr. there and back 40–50 pias.); or to the S., through the Pyxites Valley (p. [572]), following a road traversed by many camel-caravans, and ascending steeply to (4 hrs.) Jevislik (carr. there and back 80 pias.; provisions should be taken).
Beyond Trebizond the Steamer passes the little port of Platana, the ancient Hermonassa, with a good roadstead, protected against the W. and N.W. winds. The lofty Cape Yoros or Ieros (ancient Hieron; lighthouse), is visible for some 65 M. and is locally regarded as an infallible barometer.
Tireboli, the Tripolis of the Greeks, the next seaport, now a quiet little town with 5000 inhab., lies, like Kerasun, amid the magnificent rocky scenery of the spurs of the Sis Dagh (9220 ft.) and the Chal Dagh (6450 ft.), the summits of which are often covered with snow. Roads lead thence inland to the towns of Gümüshkhaneh and Karahissar.
Farther on, beyond Cape Zephyros (Turk. Zefireh Burnu) we reach the seaport of Kerasun or Kerasund (Turk. Kiresün, Greek Kireson), founded under the name of Kerasūs by the Milesians of Sinope and now a town of about 18,000 inhabitants. Like Trebizond it was one of the resting-places of the Ten Thousand under Xenophon (p. [572]). Its situation on and behind a small peninsula (about 425 ft.; lighthouse), which used to be fortified, and backed by superb mountains is very picturesque. The poor anchorage of the steamers is on the W. side of the peninsula, near the pier and the custom-house. Owing to the want of good communication with the hinterland its maritime commerce is insignificant.
The steamers seldom call at Ordu, the ancient Kotyora, but steer across the Bay of Vona, the winter quarters of most of the sailing-vessels on this coast, which is admirably sheltered by Cape Vona (Boōna Promontorium; lighthouse).
Beyond Yasun Burnu (Jasonium Promontorium), the name of which commemorates the legendary voyage of Jason and the Argonauts (see p. [560]), the coast recedes far to the S.
Without touching at the little seaport of Üniyeh or Unia (once Œnoē), the steamer passes the Chiva or Chalti Burnu (Heracleum Promontorium) and the large delta of the Yeshil Irmak (formerly Iris; beacon), which is navigable for small vessels in winter only, and steers direct towards the broad Bay of Samsun (landing or embarkation 7½ pias.), which is enclosed by low hills clad with plantations of tobacco and maize.
Samsun.—Hotel. Mantika, near the Banque Ottomane, R. 2–5, pens. 15 fr. (bargain advisable).— Restaurant Yanni, near the tobacco-factory.
Banks. Banque Ottomane, Banque d’Athènes, Banque de Salonique.—Post Offices. Turkish, French, and others, near the custom-house.
Consuls. British, B. Ch. Papadopulos.—United States Consular Agent, William Peter.
Samsun, a town with about 30,000 inhab., was in antiquity an important Greek colony under the name of Amisus and is now the chief trading-place on the N. coast of Asia Minor. The chief exports are tobacco, flour, grain, and linseed. The manufactured goods it imports are forwarded mainly by trains of wagons or camels to such inland places as Mersifun, Amasia (once Amasea, the home of Strabo), Tokat (Comana), Sivas (Sebastia), and Kaisarieh (Cæsarea).
From the custom-house we turn to the left to the Market Place with its clock-tower. A well-paved street leads thence to the Banque Ottomane. Farther to the E., on the shore, are the Seraï (see p. [483]) and several Consulates. The attractive Villa Quarter, occupied by Armenian and Greek merchants, conveys an impression of great prosperity.
Beyond Samsun the sandy coast juts out far towards the N.W. We pass the strip of land separating the sea from the large lagoon Ak Göl, the vicinity of which is infested by fever. Cape Bafra (beacon), a little farther on, is near the delta of the Kizil Irmak (Halys), which in B.C. 301–183 formed the boundary between the kingdom of Pontus and Paphlagonia. Though the largest river in Asia Minor the Kizil Irmak is not navigable.
Beyond the month of the Halys we come to a broad semicircular bay. On its N. shore, beyond the peninsula of Boz Tepeh Burnu (about 650 ft.; beacon), is a tongue of land on which stands Sinōpe (Turk. Sinob), the oldest of the colonies established on the coast of the Black Sea by the Greeks of Miletus (p. [491]) and long the most powerful. Sinope was the home of Diogenes the Cynic (about B. C. 412–323). Here Xenophon’s Ten Thousand (p. [574]) took ship on their way back to Byzantium (p. [541]) at the conclusion of the toilsome Anabasis. It was also the residence of Mithridates VI. (B. C. 120–63; comp. p. [507]), the last king of Pontus, who was famous both for his linguistic accomplishments and his military powers. He extended his sway over the whole of Asia Minor and the Crimea (p. [568]), but was finally subdued by the Romans in three hardfought campaigns. Sinope, formerly the starting-point of an important caravan-route to Cappadocia and the lands of the Euphrates, now possesses, notwithstanding its excellent harbour, little more than the shadow of its former greatness. The poor little town, inhabited by about 8000 Greeks and Turks, entirely lacks roads to the interior. The barracks at the W. end of the headland serve as a quarantine lazaretto.
We next steam past Injeh Burun (Syrias Promontorium; beacon), the northmost point of Asia Minor, and skirt a hilly, well-wooded, but thinly peopled stretch of the shore.
Ineboli (Ionopolis), the chief seaport of this part of the coast, situated on the little river of that same name, is a poor little town with Turkish timber-built houses (p. [542]) and a ruined castle. The roads, with their breakwater in ruins, are exposed to every wind and are often inaccessible in winter for days together. A road leads hence to (ca. 50 M.) Kastamuni, the present capital of the ancient Paphlagonia.
The small ports beyond Cape Kerembe (Carambis Promontorium; lights), where the coast again turns to the S.W., are not touched at by the large steamers.
Farther on, in the ancient Bithynia, appear the prominent Cape Baba (Acherusia Promontorium; beacon) and Cape Kirpe or Kerpe, with the small island of Kirpe (Thynias; beacon). Near Cape Baba lay the important Greek colony of Heraclea Pontica, now called Erekli or Bender Eregli.
Farther on is the Yum Burnu (p. [560]), which is visible at a distance of 17 M. and marks the N. entrance to the Bosporus.
For the passage of the Bosporus and the arrival in Constantinople, see pp. [560]–558 and p. [536].