Marion Harland's Complete Cook Book / A Practical and Exhaustive Manual of Cookery and Housekeeping

by Marion Harland

AN EVENING RECEPTION AND A CHAFING-DISH SUPPER

The old-fashioned evening party—which was by no means a dancing party, nor even a card party—has almost gone out of date. In this rushing day it seems next to impossible to pass an evening with one’s friends with only conversation to make the time glide pleasantly. If there is no special amusement for the sake of which the company is assembled, there must be music or recitations, or something else to prevent the guests from boring one another.

Still, once in a while even now there is an old-fashioned party. More often it takes the form of a reception to meet this or that distinguished person, or to celebrate some occasion. At such affairs, as at a wedding reception, it appears to be necessary to make up to the guests for the boredom they are presumably suffering by carrying out the principle—“feed the brute.” Accordingly, an elaborate collation is spread, and the men and women who have no other especially cheerful recollection of the evening, can at least testify that they have eaten and drunk well.

For such events the supper is a pretty serious affair, and unless the hostess has well-trained servants she would better commit the matter into the hands of professionals. Still, if she be one who herself looks well to the ways of her household, and has her own ample corps of competent domestics, she may, perhaps, achieve the supper without turning to outside help. In this case the refreshments will amount to much less in cost than if she relied upon professional caterers and waiters.

For the supper, which is to supply a large evening party, the bill of fare may, in a measure, resemble that already suggested for an extensive afternoon tea or reception. I give two menus, either of which is entirely suitable for an evening collation.

MENU FOR EVENING SUPPER.
I

Bouillon Creamed or Scalloped Oysters
Lobster, Shrimp, or Chicken Salad
Sandwiches, or Thin Bread-and-butter
Ices and Parfaits, Cakes, Coffee, Fruit Punch

MENU FOR EVENING SUPPER.
II

Bouillon, Oyster Croquettes, Sweetbread in pâtés
Salmon, or Chicken Salad Cold Turkey, or Chicken
Mousses, Biscuits and other Ices Fancy Cakes Fruit
Coffee Iced Tea Punch

The table is set in the dining-room, which is not opened until late in the evening. Everything that the house possesses in the way of handsome china, cut glass and silver may be called into requisition to beautify the occasion. There is usually a corps of waiters in attendance, although the gentlemen are also expected to do their duty in fetching and carrying, and in serving the ladies under their escort. There are times when they do nearly all the helping to the various dishes as well, but this custom grows less and less common.

Usually the table has a center-piece of flowers and fruit, which is meant for beauty rather than for use. If fruit is to be passed it is either served in smaller dishes, or is taken with care from the foot of the central pyramid, where its loss will not interfere with the beauty of the table. Piles of plates, napkins, knives, forks and spoons are arranged on the main table, or on a sideboard, and the dishes of salad, sandwiches, oysters, etc., are also on the principal table.

Such a supper as this is appropriate for a dancing party, a wedding reception or any other form of evening gaiety. As a rule, there is also a bowl of punch in evidence in the hall near the drawing-room to allay the thirst of those who can not wait until the full supper is served.

For smaller parties, like card parties, club reunions and the like, so elaborate a bill of fare is not necessary or desirable. For such functions as these the chafing-dish has supplied a felt want. With little trouble and comparatively small expense it is possible for the owner of a chafing-dish to set out a feast that will hardly fail to satisfy even a hungry college boy.

A couple of bills of fare are herewith suggested for the use of the hostess whose experience with the chafing-dish has been too limited to take her beyond the realm of lobster à la Newburg and Welsh rarebit. The amateur generally fancies that these are the only combinations which lie within the range of the chafing-dish, and it comes to him as a surprise to be told that there are scores of toothsome dainties he can manage if he have the knack of the chafing-dish.

CHAFING-DISH SUPPER.
I

Pigs in Blankets
Chicken Bouillon
Thin Bread-and-Butter
Welsh Rarebit
Ale or Beer
Coffee

CHAFING-DISH SUPPER.
II

Scotch Woodcock
Crackers
Oysters or Clams, creamed
Lettuce Sandwiches
Cheese Fondu
Coffee

For a chafing-dish supper there should be no more guests than can group themselves comfortably about the dining-room table. As a rule, the dishes that are prepared are not of the variety that one can eat readily from a plate balanced on the knee, or in the hand. If the main table be not large enough to permit of all being seated about it, there may be smaller tables for the “overflow.” If one chafing-dish is too small to prepare as much as the appetites of the eaters crave, there may be one at each end of the table, and there should be an expert in charge of each.

The table may be simply set—either bare, or covered with a plain cloth. Flowers are out of place in the middle of it, as interfering with the free view of the chafing-dish by the guests. For it makes no difference how often one has seen a dish cooked, there is always curiosity to see it done once more. About the chafing-dish are placed all the paraphernalia that attend upon that kind of cookery—the condiments, the utensils, the spoons, forks, knives, measuring cups and the like. In chafing-dish cookery nothing can wait, and everything that by any chance can be needed must be there in advance.

Let no one be so deluded by any amount of theoretical knowledge as to venture to make a maiden essay at chafing-dish cookery in the presence of a company of guests. There should always be a rehearsal beforehand. Nowhere else is stage fright more imminent. Nowhere else has it more disastrous possibilities.

If feasible there should be a servant at hand with a supply of hot dishes. All the other work of cooking and waiting may be performed by the hostess and her guests. The occasion should be most informal. Persons who can not unbend readily should never go to chafing-dish parties. They will find themselves much out of place. To those who are fond of easy laughter and simple fun and a good deal of nonsense, and whose digestions—this is chiefest of all—are in good working order, there are few social relaxations that are pleasanter than a chafing-dish “affair.”