Cooking in Earthenware
Stone or earthenware cooking appliances are used to very great advantage for various forms of preparing food. For the homely pot-au-feu the French housewife has used fireproof earthenware dishes for generations, and does so today. But besides soups, various savory dishes, and all sorts of stews are cooked in stoneware pots. Indeed, so much has this form of cookery come into fashion that many dishes are sent to table in the pots in which they are cooked. Cooking in stoneware has no equal where slow cooking is aimed at, and there are many dishes which one would do well to refrain from attempting unless cooked in this fashion. These cooking pots are inexpensive, and certain foods taste decidedly better if cooked in this way. For braising, pot roasting, or stewing fruit and other articles which need to be cooked slowly under close cover, the application of a moderate, even heat produces far better results than if quick heat is applied. For such cases the use of earthenware cooking pots is recommended.
Time Table for Cooking | |
| Baking | |
| Beef, loin or ribs, rare, per lb. | 8 to 10 minutes |
| Beef, loin or ribs, well done, per lb. | 12 to 16 minutes |
| Beef, ribs, rolled, rare | 12 to 15 minutes |
| Beef, ribs, rolled, well done | 15 to 18 minutes |
| Beef, fillet, rare | 20 to 30 minutes |
| Beef, fillet, well done | 60 minutes |
| Mutton, leg, rare, per lb. | 10 minutes |
| Mutton, leg, well done, per lb. | 14 minutes |
| Mutton, forequarter, stuffed, per lb. | 15 to 25 minutes |
| Lamb, well done, per lb. | 15 to 20 minutes |
| Veal, well done, per lb. | 18 to 22 minutes |
| Pork, well done, per lb. | 20 minutes |
| Venison, rare, per lb. | 10 minutes |
| Chicken, per lb. | 15 to 20 minutes |
| Turkey, nine lbs. | 3 hours |
| Goose, nine lbs. | 2-1/2 hours |
| Duck, domestic | 1 to 1-1/4 hours |
| Duck, wild | 20 to 30 minutes |
| Grouse | 25 to 30 minutes |
| Ham | 4 to 6 hours |
| Fish, 3 or 4 lbs. | 45 to 60 minutes |
| Small fish and fillets | 20 minutes |
| Beans with pork | 6 to 8 hours |
| Bread, white loaf | 45 to 60 minutes |
| Graham loaf | 35 to 45 minutes |
| Baking powder biscuits | 12 to 15 minutes |
| Gems | 25 to 30 minutes |
| Quick doughs | 8 to 15 minutes |
| Cookies | 8 to 10 minutes |
| Gingerbread | 20 to 30 minutes |
| Sponge cake | 45 to 60 minutes |
| Cake, layer | 20 to 30 minutes |
| Cake, loaf | 40 to 60 minutes |
| Fruit cake | 2 to 3 hours |
| Cake, wedding | 3 to 5 hours |
| Cakes, small | 15 to 25 minutes |
| Batter puddings | 35 to 45 minutes |
| Pies | 30 to 50 minutes |
| Tarts | 15 to 20 minutes |
| Patties | 15 to 25 minutes |
| Vol-au-vent | 50 to 60 minutes |
| Muffins, yeast | 30 minutes |
| Muffins, baking powder | 20 to 25 minutes |
| Indian pudding | 2 to 3 hours |
| Rice or tapioca pudding | 1 hour |
| Bread puddings | 45 to 60 minutes |
| Scallop dishes | 15 to 20 minutes |
| Custard | 35 to 45 minutes |
| Custard in cups | 20 to 25 minutes |
| Boiling | |
| MEATS | 2 to 6 hours |
| Corned meat | 4 to 6 hours |
| Ox tongue | 3 to 4 hours |
| Ham, 12 to 14 lbs | 4 to 5 hours |
| Turkey, 10 lbs | 3 to 3-1/2 hours |
| Fowl, 4 to 5 lbs | 2 to 3 hours |
| Chicken, 3 lbs | 1 to 1-1/2 hours |
| Fish, 2 to 5 lbs | 30 to 45 minutes |
| Lobster | 25 to 30 minutes |
| Cod, 3 to 5 lbs | 20 to 30 minutes |
| Haddock, 3 to 5 lbs | 20 to 30 minutes |
| Halibut, thick piece, per lb | 15 minutes |
| Salmon, thick piece, per lb | 10 to 15 minutes |
| Asparagus | 20 to 30 minutes |
| Beans, shell or string | 1 to 3 hours |
| Beets, young | 50 minutes |
| Beets, old | 3 to 4 hours |
| Brussels Sprouts | 15 to 20 minutes |
| Cabbage | 35 to 60 minutes |
| Carrots | 1 hour |
| Cauliflower | 25 to 30 minutes |
| Corn | 12 to 20 minutes |
| Macaroni | 20 to 35 minutes |
| Turnips | 30 to 45 minutes |
| Onions | 45 to 60 minutes |
| Parsnips | 30 to 45 minutes |
| Spinach | 15 to 20 minutes |
| Tomatoes, stewed | 15 to 20 minutes |
| Rice | 20 to 30 minutes |
| Broiling | |
| Steak, 1 inch thick | 4 to 10 minutes |
| Steak, 1-1/2 inches thick | 8 to 12 minutes |
| Lamb or mutton chops | 6 to 10 minutes |
| Chicken | 20 minutes |
| Quails | 8 minutes |
| Squabs | 10 to 12 minutes |
| Shad, whitefish and bluefish | 15 to 20 minutes |
| Fish slices | 12 to 15 minutes |
| Liver | 4 to 5 minutes |
| Frying | |
| Smelts and other small fish | 3 to 5 minutes |
| Breaded chops | 5 to 8 minutes |
| Potatoes, raw | 4 to 8 minutes |
| Fish balls and croquettes | 1 minute |
| Muffins, fritters, and doughnuts | 3 to 5 minutes |
Weights and Measures | |
| 27-1/3 grains | 1 dram |
| 16 drams | 1 ounce |
| 16 ounces | 1 pound |
| 1 teaspoonful | 60 drops |
| 3 teaspoonfuls | 1 tablespoonful |
| 4 tablespoonfuls | 1 wineglass, 1/2 gill, or 1/4 cup |
| 16 tablespoonfuls | 1 cup |
| 2 gills | 1 cup |
| 2 cups | 1 pint |
| 2 pints | 1 quart |
| 4 quarts | 1 gallon |
| 2 tablespoonfuls Crisco | 1 ounce |
| 2 tablespoonfuls salt | 1 ounce |
| 2 tablespoonfuls sugar | 1 ounce |
| 4 tablespoonfuls flour | 1 ounce |
| 1 tablespoonful liquid | 1/2 ounce |
| 1 square chocolate | 1 ounce |
| 1/3 cupful chopped nut meats (blanched) | 1 ounce |
| 1 cupful currants | 1/4 pound |
| 1 cupful crumbs | 1/4 pound |
| 4-1/3 cupfuls coffee | 1 pound |
| 3-1/2 cupfuls confectioners' sugar | 1 pound |
| 4-1/2 cupfuls graham flour | 1 pound |
| 2-2/3 cupfuls oatmeal | 1 pound |
| 5 cupfuls rolled oats | 1 pound |
| 4-1/3 cupfuls rye meal | 1 pound |
| 1-7/8 cupfuls rice | 1 pound |
| 2-1/3 cupfuls dry beans | 1 pound |
| 2 cupfuls granulated sugar | 1 pound |
| 2-2/3 cupfuls brown sugar | 1 pound |
| 2-2/3 cupfuls powdered sugar | 1 pound |
| 1 cupful (volume) | 8 ounces |
| 1 cupful water | 8-1/3 ounces |
| 1 pint butter | 1 pound |
| 1 quart-flour | 1 pound |
| 10 small or 9 medium eggs | 1 pound |
All materials are measured level, i.e., by filling spoon or cup more than full and leveling with a case knife.
To measure meal, flour, sugar and similar ingredients, sift lightly into the measure, then level.
Standard measuring cups made of tin, aluminum or glass holding half a pint always should be used. Coffee and teacups vary so much that correct proportions can not be obtained by using them.
To measure a spoonful of dry material, fill the spoon heaping, then level. To measure a half-spoonful, fill and level the spoon, then divide in half lengthways; for quarter-spoonfuls, divide the halves crossways.
Use level measurements in all recipes in this book.
The Art of Carving
Carving is an art, and one which anybody, with a knowledge of a few general directions, can acquire easily.
A proper set of carving tools is almost indispensable, and should comprise: a good thin, sharp-bladed knife, a solid two or three pronged fork, and a pair of carving scissors. Anything that needs to be carved at table should be placed on a dish sufficiently large to allow the joint to be turned without moving the dish from its position. The dish should be placed close in front of the carver. Such joints as beef, veal and ham should be cut very thin; while lamb, mutton, and pork should be cut a trifle thicker.
To carve a fowl, begin by sticking the fork into the pinion and draw it towards the leg; and then, passing the knife underneath, take off the wing at the joint. Next slip the knife between leg and body, to cut through the joint; and with the fork turn leg back, and joint will give way. Then take off other wing and leg. After legs are taken off, enter knife into the top of breast, and cut under merrythought or wishbone so as to loosen it, lifting it with the fork. Afterwards cut slices from both sides of breast. Next, take off collarbones, which lie on each side of wishbone and then separate side bones from the back. The breast and wings are considered the most delicate parts; the back as the least desirable, generally is left on platter.
A turkey is carved in same manner, except that the legs and wings, being larger, are separated at lower joint. Lower part of leg (or drumstick) being hard, tough, and stringy, usually is allowed to remain on platter. First cut off wing, leg, and breast from one side; then turn turkey round and cut them off from the other.
To carve a goose, separate leg from body by putting fork into small end of leg, pressing it close to body, and then passing knife under, and turning leg back as you cut through joint. To take off wing, put fork into the small end of wing, and press it closely to body, then slip knife under and separate the joint. Next, cut under wishbone and take it off, and cut slices from breast. Then turn and dismember the other side. Take off upper side bones next to wings, then two lower side bones. The breast and legs of a goose are considered the most choice. If a goose is old, there is no fowl so tough.
Quails merely are split down the back, as also are pigeons, giving a half to each person.
To carve loin of mutton, a portion is cut through, beginning at the best end. If kidney be in it, a slice should be served as far as it will go to each portion. Care must be taken that the bone is well jointed. The butcher chops the loin between each vertebra. When big mutton is carved it gives a large chop, oftentimes more than the amount desired, but a chop cannot be divided without waste, or one portion being all the inferior end. It is therefore a good plan to joint a loin of mutton with a small meat saw, cutting any thickness desired. In this case the actual bone will often have to be sawn through. The result will be more economical, and the servings more agreeable. The loin also can be boned entirely, stuffed or not, as preferred, the flap end folded and fastened over the fillet portion. Then the meat can be carved across any thickness.
To carve leg of mutton, stand joint the inner part of the leg uppermost and cut across center to bone, towards carver, then cut rather thick slices on either side. To serve the meat equally, unless any special part is desired, a portion of the knuckle is served with a slice of the thick end. The prime fat is the kernel of fat at the thick end.
To carve forequarter of mutton or lamb. The forequarter of mutton usually is not served whole unless the mutton be very small. The forequarter of lamb frequently is served whole. Before cooking it must be jointed through the chine of bone at the back, to enable this portion being served in chops, twice across the breastbones the entire length, and at short intervals at the edge of the breast. Before serving it is usual to separate the shoulder by pressing the fork in by the knuckle, then passing knife round shoulder, crossing about center of joint, raising shoulder without cutting too much meat off breast. Leave shoulder in position on joint; a second dish is sent to table on which to lay it while the other part is being carved.
To carve rabbit or hare. In either case first separate legs and shoulders; then cut the back part across, into two parts. This is accomplished best by inserting the knife into joint, and raising up the back by means of the fork. The back or fillet part is considered the best portion of a hare or rabbit.
To carve sirloin of beef, a sirloin should be cut into thin slices with a sharp, firm cut from end to end of the joint. At the upper portion the cut should be clean and even; then use point of knife to loosen slices from bones. In carving undercut, remove superfluous fat, and cut slices from end to end in same manner as upper portion. Be careful always to cut down straight to the bone of a sirloin or rib of beef; by so doing you will not spoil appearance of joint, and what remains will look tidy.
To carve ham. Ham should be cut through to the bone first from center or near thin end. Slices must be cut thin. Always commence cutting from upper side. The fairest way by far, so as to serve fat and lean evenly, is to begin cutting from center of thickest part, and to cut thin circular slices; by this means the flavor of the ham is far better, and it will prove to be the more economical way of serving.
To carve ox-tongue. Commence cutting from middle of tongue; cut slices not too thin and take them from each side being careful not to cut slices through to bottom part of tongue. Extreme end of the tip and the lower part of tongue generally are used up for chopping in salpicons, etc. A little of the fat should be put on each plate. When rolled tongue is served it must be cut horizontally into rather thin slices.
To carve fish. A silver sheer or trowel should be used for this purpose; a steel knife applied to fish often spoils the delicacy of its flavor. Great care must be taken to prevent breaking the flakes, which ought to be kept as entire as possible. Short-grained fish, such as salmon, etc., should be cut lengthwise, not crosswise.
Six Hundred and Fifteen Tested Recipes
"Calendar of Dinners"
by Marion Harris Neil
An economical housewife may supply good gravy and thick soups at very little, if any, addition to the weekly expenses, as soups are an excellent method of using up scraps and bones from joints and vegetables that otherwise are wasted. Soup, if taken as the primary course of a substantial dinner, if well flavored and warm, acts as a stimulant in the stomach, exciting the gastric glands, and generally enabling that organ to perform its functions more easily. For this object the soup should be thin and not too much of it partaken, otherwise it dilutes the digestive juices too much. If it is to form the chief part of the meal, the soup will be more nutritious if thickened, especially so, if pulse—i.e. peas, beans, and lentils—is used as the thickening medium.
Stock is the liquid in which meat, bones, or vegetables have been cooked, and which contains an extract from these substances. It is used for soups, sauces, and gravies. Fresh or cooked bones or meat may be used. A stock pot may be kept on the stove, into which are put any scraps of meat, bones, gristle, or vegetable; at the end of the day it is strained, and all fat taken off. Bones and meat for stock must be broken into small pieces. Cold water should be used, and a little salt to extract the nutriment. The whole must be brought slowly to the boiling point; then, the temperature lowered, the fat and scum taken off. When wanted for clear soups the vegetables should be cleaned, but not cut up, or with the long cooking they may mash and thicken the soup. In hot weather it is better to leave out the vegetables, as the stock turns sour more quickly if vegetables have been used in its preparation. They can be cooked separately and added when using the stock.
The soup should simmer for five or six hours to extract the gelatinous matters. If the stock is skimmed occasionally it will be much clearer. Keep the lid on the stock pot to prevent loss by evaporation. The bones can be cooked again next day for a second stock, but the vegetables must be taken out. Care must be taken that nothing doubtful in freshness be put into the stock pot. Meat and bones should be well wiped with a damp cloth before using them. If onions be put in the soup unpeeled, simply washed and the root end cut off, they will help to color the soup. When using eggs for other dishes, if the shells be washed before breaking them and added to the stock pot they will help to clear the soup. For clear soups care must be taken that nothing of a floury nature be added to the stock pot. Stock always should be strained before cooling. Never allow it to stand in stock pot all night. Clear gravy soup consists of the extractives, flavoring matters, and gelatine of meat and bones.
Consommé is a good stock made from beef, veal, and often fowl, and flavored with vegetables, cooled, freed from fat. It is clarified with whites and shells of eggs, and chopped raw lean beef, and strained through a cloth. It should be brilliantly clear and of a pale brown color. Any fat floating on the stock may be removed by passing a piece of kitchen or blotting paper over the surface. Soup left from a meal will keep better if strained from the vegetables that have been served in it. In hot weather, stock left over must be boiled each day, and poured into a clean basin to prevent its turning sour. In warm weather, soups with milk in their composition should have a pinch of baking soda added.
Thickenings for soup consist usually of yolks of eggs and cream beaten together in a basin, the boiling soup poured on slowly, stirring well at the same time. Soups thus thickened should not be allowed to boil again, otherwise they will curdle. Instead of eggs and cream, cornstarch and milk may be used to thicken the soup.
