Great Zimbabwe, Mashonaland, Rhodesia / An account of two years' examination work in 1902-4 on behalf of the government of Rhodesia

by R. N. Hall

PHILIPS RUINS

These ruins lie to the east of the Posselt Ruins, which they almost adjoin, being only 8 yds. apart at their nearest points. These ruins present several most interesting features:—

(1) The discovery (March, 1903) of the finest, most perfect, and most elaborately decorated soapstone beam with bird on summit yet found at Great Zimbabwe, also of phalli and beaten gold.

Sketch Plan
PHILIPS’ RUINS
“Valley of Ruins”
(Lower Section)

(2) An excellently constructed and massive wall, built upon the plan of a section of a circle, with its centre facing due east, and the discovery of quantities of sections of worked soapstone beams along its base, together with fragments of carved soapstone bowls, and also ancient relics of the oldest type.

(3) A small conical tower uncovered March, 1903.

(4) Excellent and massive character of the construction of the walls of the numerous rounded entrances, buttresses, and ends of walls. There are two drains, also a tall slate beam built into a portcullis groove to form a side lintel post in an entrance.

(5) The complete absence of signs of native occupation of these ruins except on the east side of the large curved wall, and these are slight.

Area.—The area occupied by these ruins is 140 ft. from east to west, and 150 ft. from north to south. There is no main outer wall on the south side, and it is probable, judging by wall débris, that these ruins extended some 20 yds. further south.

Main walls.—These extend from the west side round the north to the south-east, the rest having disappeared; or possibly Posselt Ruins and these were originally one immense ruin, so that an outer wall on the west side might never have existed; but this could not have been the case with regard to the south side.

The main outer walls average from 5 ft. to 9 ft. in height on their outer faces, and 3 ft. to 8 ft. on their inner sides, the interior of the building being on a considerably higher level than the exterior. This is owing mainly to the natural fall of the ground towards the north-east and east on which the ruins are built. The widths of the main walls vary from 6 ft. to 8 ft. on floor level, 5 ft. at 6 ft. above the floor, while some reduced summits have a width of 5 ft. at 9 ft. above the floor.

Construction.—These ruins, especially some portions, such as the massive curved wall, are most excellently built. The selection of the blocks, the good and even quality of the granite employed, show that some special importance was attached to these portions of the ruins. Except for one small buttress, the angular style of building is absolutely absent from these structures.

The divisional walls are also well built, and are superior to the main and outer walls of several ruins at Zimbabwe.

Curved wall.—This wall forms the most prominent feature in these ruins, and it at once attracts the attention of all visitors on account of its symmetrical and massive character, excellent workmanship, and the height of its reduced summit, which has the extraordinary width of 5 ft. at 13 ft. from the ground. The curve is laid on so exact a plan that it was an easy matter for a surveyor to definitely determine the centre of the arc. The centre of the curve faces outwards due east, and standing at the centre of the arc the extremities of the wall are found to be E.N.E. and E.S.E. respectively. It is 125 ft. round its inner face at 6 ft. above the remains of cement flooring, and 84 ft. round its outer face at the same height from the ground, but its outer extremities are hidden behind rounded walls and buttresses. The distance between the two extremities across the bow is 75 ft., and from that line to the centre of the curve the distance is 23 ft. The batter-back of the wall is 1 ft. 3 in. in 10 ft.

The height of the reduced summit for 60 ft. averages 9 ft. to 13 ft. on either side of the wall, but as these heights are taken from raised cement steps, platforms, and sections of floors, at least another 2 ft. or 3 ft. may be added to their present reduced height, for the greatest height from foundation to summit is 15 ft. 6 in. The original height may safely be estimated at 20 ft. above the cement flooring. This estimate is justified by the great amount of wall débris found along the bases of either side of the wall. On the summit near the south end of the wall are the remains of a banquette, and these inner terraces or look-outs are almost invariably behind walls which are at least breast high above the floor of the banquette; moreover, the batter-back of the faces of the wall would well allow of a wall 20 ft. high and yet leave a fairly wide summit. Where the entrance facing the E.N.E. passes through this wall, the side walls are reduced to 5 ft. in height on either side above the floor of the entrance, which is 3 ft. above the foundation of the wall.

This entrance, like those in the main walls of the Elliptical Temple, is carried over the foundation of the wall, and this forms its passage floor. It is 2 ft. wide and 6 ft. 6 in. long, and has two rounded buttresses on the inner side, and these have portcullis grooves. These buttresses are built upon a semi-circular platform projecting 6 ft. into the interior of the building, thus making the entrance passage about 12 ft. in length. The floor of the entrance is covered with granite cement.

One peculiar feature in the construction of this wall is that, while the northern end is rounded off, the southern end is continued in the form of a portion of a loop, which circles southwards and eastwards, and then runs back into the east face of the curved wall, enclosing an almost circular area of 10 ft. in diameter. The wall in this loop is well built. The average height of the loop-wall is 6 ft., but on the south side it rises to 10 ft., where the width of the summit is 3 ft. The interior was rudely filled up with stones, below which was a cement floor 3 ft. higher than the outside level and 6 ft. above the foundation. This raised platform or pulpit is approached on the west side by a few steps leading up to a rounded opening into the loop.

This curved wall, massive as it is, does not form an outer wall of these ruins, but crosses their centre, dividing them into two parts. It is apparently independent so far as its plan, superior character of construction, and purpose are concerned.

At the west side of the curved wall, and at the centre of the curve, is a wall 23 ft. long projecting towards the interior of the building. This is 3 ft. high at its western extremity, but its summit rapidly rises to 8 ft. in height. It has a slight curve towards the south. On its north side is a small recess extending from base to summit, and this is exactly similar in construction to the recesses in “Buttress” or “Recess Enclosure” on the Acropolis.

On either side of this wall, and in the angles formed by the curved wall, are low granite cement platforms which are rounded on the front faces. These resemble the “blind steps” found in all the main ruins at Zimbabwe.

The purpose of the erection of the curved wall might possibly have been for solar or astronomical observations, and though this is a mere conjecture, the following points may lend it some support:—

(1) In close proximity to this curved wall, and on its eastern side, was discovered the soapstone beam with carved bird on the summit—this being the finest specimen yet discovered at Zimbabwe—also phalli and ancient relics of the oldest type. The soapstone birds had so far been discovered only at the Western and Eastern Temples on the Acropolis.

(2) The discovery under the wall débris which lay along each side of the wall at its base of quantities of lengths of broken soapstone beams which, though not carved, had been worked with tools, the widths of the edges of the chisel being very plainly discernible, some sections being beautifully rounded and polished. These are believed to have originally decorated the summit of the wall, a suggestion supported by the shape and markings on the bases of several beams so discovered. Soapstone beams once fixed on the summits of walls had previously been discovered only at the three temples.

(3) The proximity of a small conical tower in an adjoining enclosure at the north-eastern end of this wall.

(4) The large raised platform formed by the looped wall, and originally approached by steps on the west side, somewhat corresponds in position with the Platform in the Elliptical Temple and at the Western Temple, and with the Balcony at the Eastern Temple.

Conical Tower.—This is situated in the most north-easterly enclosure of these ruins. It is still 6 ft. 6 in. in height, but judging from the block débris it was once much higher. At 3 ft. 6 in. above the granite cement floor at its base it has a circumference of 18 ft. 10 in. It is impossible to measure the circumference of its base, as a large rounded cement step extends between it and the south wall of the enclosure. The tower, which has a fair and noticeable batter-back, is very well built. It has been proved to be solid. Its foundations are 6 in. below the cement floor. There are four of these small conical towers at Zimbabwe, two having been discovered in March, 1903. On the east side of this tower, and built up against its east side, is a small rounded platform 3 ft. high, covered with granite cement, which is approached by two large steps.

Entrances.—There are three entrances to these ruins—the north, north-east, and east—and most probably others will be found as further exploration work is carried on here.

The north entrance appears to have been the main approach. This is an intricate entrance, and one which appears to have possessed considerable importance in the minds of the original builders. It lies between two outer rounded walls, each 6 ft. high, which curve inwards towards each other so as to form a passage-way about 6 ft. wide, which is again narrowed at its southern extremity to 2 ft. 6 in. by two rounded buttresses on either side. These buttresses have portcullis grooves. The area opens into a small walled-in area, 10 ft. by 10 ft., the walls being 6 ft. high, and very well and substantially built. The floor is made of granite cement. There are three rounded walls in this area. A buttress with a portcullis groove is in the south-western corner of the area, but the corresponding buttress has disappeared. The walled-in area would have enabled twenty defenders to protect the 2 ft. 6 in. wide entrance from being forced by an attacking party. The west side of the entrance passage is carried further south by two walls, each built upon a semi-circular plan.

The north-east entrance opens into the enclosure which contains the Conical Tower already described. The side walls are 5 ft. high, and 4 ft. and 5 ft. wide at this height from the floor. The entrance is 2 ft. 4 in. wide, and including the steps it is 9 ft. long. A semi-circular platform projects 6 ft. into the enclosure, and on it are built two rounded buttresses with portcullis grooves. These buttresses are in an advanced state of dilapidation. There are three steps between these buttresses, and these lead down on to the floor of the interior. An immense slate beam rises out of the ground immediately on the north-east side of the exterior of the entrance.

At present only the south side of the east entrance has been opened out. This is 4 ft. high, and is rounded. On the inner side is a semi-circular buttress hollow inside with an opening into it from the south side.

All the entrances, of which there are seven in the divisional walls, are rounded, and most have portcullis grooves.

At the centre of the eastern face of the curved wall is a rounded entrance with portcullis groove, in which is built a slate beam which stands 8 ft. above the floor. The total length of the beam is at least 11 ft. This is the most perfect specimen of all the stone lintels built in portcullis grooves.

Enclosures.—Judging from sections of divisional walls, there were in all probability no less than sixteen enclosures in these ruins. Some were of large area, but subdivided. All the divisional walls are laid on curved lines. The only complete enclosure is the one on the north side, where is the Conical Tower. The wall on the south side is from 5 ft. to 9 ft. high, on the west side 5 ft. to 10 ft., and on the north side, which is the main outer wall of the ruins, 5 ft. This latter wall, which is curved outwards towards the north-east, is 4 ft. wide at 5 ft. above the ground. A cement floor is laid around the tower. The west entrance was described earlier under the heading of “Entrances.”

Buttresses.—In these ruins are numerous rounded buttresses. A large semi-circular buttress 4 ft. to 5 ft. high, 22 ft. round the face, 9 ft. from back to front, and 12 ft. across the back, faces the east and outer side of the centre of the curved wall, from which point the buttress is due east at 25 ft. distance. On the west side of this buttress is a passage with cement floor, rounded steps, and dadoes.

Drains.—So far as these ruins have been cleared, only two drains have been exposed, one through a wall 5 ft. wide, which wall runs parallel to the east side of the large curved wall, and one through the main wall leading from the north-east enclosure.

Cement.—Granite cement has been extensively employed at these ruins, both for flooring, dadoes, and steps, also for platforms in the angles of walls, which somewhat resemble the “blind steps” in the angles of the divisional walls of the Elliptical Temple.