Great Zimbabwe, Mashonaland, Rhodesia / An account of two years' examination work in 1902-4 on behalf of the government of Rhodesia

by R. N. Hall

THE “OUTSPAN RUINS”

These ruins, which lie 75 yds. to the north of Havilah Camp, are on the outspan in the valley which runs along the south side of Zimbabwe Hill, and also on the path leading from the camp to the South-East Ancient Ascent. This block of ruins was entirely cleared out of wall débris and silted soil in September, 1902, and now visitors may walk upon what was practically the ancient floor. The cement which once formed the floor has become decomposed to granite sand, and owing to the enclosures of the ruin having been buried some 3 ft. to 5 ft. under the veld, the enclosures held all the water which in rainy seasons would pour down the side of the hill immediately behind.

These ruins form part of the line of Hill Inner Defence Wall, which encloses the whole of Zimbabwe Hill on its west, south, and east sides and runs along the foot of the lower slopes of the hill. The most complete view of this continuous line of wall is obtained from the summit of the hill. This line of defence wall is again enclosed on the west side by the Outer Defence Wall, which runs from the north side of the hill almost as far as the Elliptical Temple, and between these two walls are the three large dongas on the west side of the hill.

The “Outspan Ruins” form the most perfect section of the Hill Inner Defence Wall, not excepting the fine entrances to the North-West Ancient Ascent with its herring-bone pattern, which is also another section of the same line of inner defence wall, only on the north-west side of the hill. They also must have served as an important entrance through the south-west portion of the Hill Inner Defence Wall. The entrance is complicated and rendered very difficult of attack by a number of rounded buttresses, in addition to which there are small enclosures most substantially built, which, most probably, were guard-rooms.

Sketch Plan
OUTSPAN RUINS
Zimbabwe

There is nothing angular in the plan and construction of these ruins. They very patently resemble other outlying buildings which obviously formed part of the original plan of the main Hill Ruins. The courses in the wall are not very regular, and stones of all shapes and sizes have been introduced. There is no decorative pattern in this section of the Hill Inner Defence Wall, but there is one peculiarity in its architecture, and in that of a conical tower which is described later.

These ruins occupy an area of 113 ft. from south-east to north-west, and 70 ft. from north-east to south-west.

The main wall faces south. The 113 ft. length only includes the line of main wall which still stands some 5 ft. to 11 ft. in height, the wall at either end of this length can be traced extending for 500 yds. to the east and 350 yds. to the west and north.

The entrance which has rounded walls on either side is 4 ft. wide, and passes diagonally south-west through the main wall, thus giving it a length of 8 ft. On its eastern side the wall is 7 ft. high, and 5 ft. on the western side.

The ruins on the north side of main wall form a central enclosure to the north of the entrance with an enclosure on either side of it, also a passage on the south and west sides of the central enclosure.

The central enclosure is formed by a wall 22 ft. long, 4 ft. high, and 5 ft. to 7 ft. wide on the present reduced summit, which runs north at right angles from the inside of the main wall at 4 ft. east from the east side of the entrance. The wall, which at its northern extremity is rounded, forms the divisional wall between the central and eastern enclosures. The west side of the central enclosure is formed by a wall, rounded at each end, which starts at 4 ft. from opposite the inside of the entrance, and goes west for 13 ft. and north-east for 19 ft. This wall averages 3 ft. to 8 ft. in height, and is from 4 ft. to 5 ft. 6 in. wide at base, and 3 ft. 6 in. on the highest summit. Where the east wall of this enclosure comes opposite the end of the north-east wall is an entrance 3 ft. 6 in. wide. The area of this enclosure is 14 ft. from west to east and 19 ft. from north to south. It is possible that in the centre of this enclosure once stood a round buttress or tower, and the position of a few blocks in the floor makes this something more than a mere conjecture.

On passing through the main entrance from the south, one enters a passage which runs parallel with the north side of the main wall for 17 ft. towards the west, and then curves sharply towards the east-north-east for 19 ft. At its two extremities the passage is from 3 ft. to 3 ft. 6 in. wide, but at the curve at the end of the first length of 17 ft. it is 6 ft. wide. The western wall of this passage is 19 ft. long, 5 ft. wide at base, and 3 ft. 6 in. on the highest portion of the summit, this being at the south end, where the wall is 8 ft. high. This wall is rounded at its northern extremity, and forms the divisional wall between the passage and the eastern enclosure. Neither the eastern nor the western enclosures can at present be defined on their northern sides, though lines of block débris would appear to fix their boundaries.

The most interesting architectural feature in the “Outspan Ruins” is the conical tower built to form part of the main wall. This is an independent structure from its base upwards. It is 9 ft. high, and though built of irregularly shaped stones and without much adherence to courses, it is symmetrical in appearance. On its west side between it and the rounded end of the main wall is a space 2 in. wide on the floor and 5 ft. wide at 6 ft. from the floor. This narrow loopholed space still remains open, save for a single slab which at 6 ft. above the floor is built into the tower and the main wall, thus forming a sort of stone shelf. On the eastern side of the tower the space between it and the rounded wall of the entrance is neatly built up, and a slab is laid from the rounded wall into the courses of the tower at 5 ft. above the floor. Possibly these slabs on either side of the tower formed raised platforms to afford a view over the wall, while the narrow loophole might have served as a look-out. The circumference of the tower at 5 ft. from its base is 19 ft. 3 in.

The portion of these ruins which lies to the south of the main wall comprises (1) a wall running south at right angles to the main wall at 4 ft. from the west side of the entrance. This wall is 24 ft. long, and averages 3 ft. 6 in. in height, and is 2 ft. wide on its present summit; (2) a circular buttress built independently and standing opposite the outside of the main entrance at a distance of 8 ft. 6 in. Its height is now only 3 ft. 10 in., and its circumference at base is 28 ft. 4 in. It is hollow in the centre, and it has collapsed from summit to base on its southern side for a width of 3 ft. The obvious object of this buttress is to divide the open space on the outside of the entrance into two narrow passages, each of which could easily be defended by a few even against a great number of besiegers.

At 36 ft. east of the south side of the entrance is an outcrop of a wall 6 ft. long, and this runs due south at some 5 ft. in front of the main wall.

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CHAPTER XIX
“THE VALLEY OF RUINS”

Posselt, Philips, Maund, Renders, Mauch Ruins, and South-East Ruins.

“THE Valley of Ruins” is on the north-east and east sides of the Elliptical Temple, and almost half-way between it and the south side of the east end of the Acropolis Hill. This conglomeration of ruins extends from the edge of the slope which runs along the north-east sides of both Elliptical Temple and No. 1 Ruins to within 60 yds. of the west side of East Ruins, and covers an area of about 250 yds. from east to west and 120 yds. from north to south. This area is the upper portion of the Zimbabwe Valley, which descends towards the east, the streams from this valley during the rainy season falling into the Mapudzi stream, which runs southwards down the Schlichter Gorge towards the Moshawasha Valley, and later finds its way into the Motelekwe River.

Till 1902–3 these extensive ruins, some of which are massive and most excellently constructed, remained not only unexplored but unexamined, and no particulars or plan had ever been attempted to be given, all writers being content to refer to them as “The Valley of Ruins,” while some writers altogether ignore the existence of the group. Dr. Helm, of Morgenster, whose professional duties have taken him twice every month for the last six years within a few score yards of the ruins, states that he never supposed the wood and the jungle contained any walls.

Since the Occupation in 1890 no attention has been paid to these ruins. No visitors’ or even native paths crossed the area, nor are there the slightest traces in the shape of trenches of relic hunters and gold prospectors having worked here. So unfrequented has it been that some fair-sized buck have recently been shot within the walls. The area was found to be covered with an almost impenetrable jungle of trees, bushes, and creepers. The local natives declared the place to be bewitched, and consequently they avoided it.

“The Valley of Ruins” has recently (1903) been found to consist of three groups, each of which includes several distinct ruins, some being of an important character.

The area is divided as follows:—

1. Lower or north-eastern section, including the Posselt, Philips, and Maund Ruins.

2. Middle section, which lies between the lower section and the edge of the slope of land on the north-east side of the Elliptical Temple.

3. Upper section, including all ruins between the Elliptical Temple and the edge of the slope overlooking lower portions of “The Valley of Ruins.”

Before describing these complicated groups there are some features represented by them which may be mentioned.

(a) Several of these ruins, especially those in the lower section, are exceedingly massive and well built, the courses marvellously true with an absence of straight joints. The curves of the wall are beautifully designed and are laid on boldly sweeping lines. The material is good, and is also most carefully selected and sized. The masonry of many of the walls is far superior to that of some of the divisional walls of the Elliptical Temple and to the majority of the walls on the Acropolis.

(b) The absence of the angular style of buildings, except with certain structures in the middle section. Rounded entrances and buttresses and gracefully rounded ends of walls form the most prevailing features of most of these ruins. Two conical towers, several very large semi-circular buttresses or platforms form prominent features. Two drains were discovered (1903) in Philips Ruins and three in Posselt Ruins (B).

(c) The middle section is poorly built, and possesses some angular features. The upper section is well built.

(d) The discovery (1903) in the lower section of these ruins of gold articles, decorated and plain soapstone beams and relics of the oldest type, including the soapstone beam with bird on summit—the finest specimen yet found in Zimbabwe—point to the fact that certain of these ruins were used for somewhat higher purposes than those of forts or workshops, possibly, as many now suggest, as residences for priests or officials connected with the temple. This surmise is justifiable, seeing that the north-east passage connects such well-built and substantial portions of these mines directly with the North Entrance and Parallel Passage and Sacred Enclosure of the Elliptical Temple. In the lower section of these ruins there are no traces of ancient or native industries having been carried on.

(e) In the lower section of these ruins there are fewer signs of modern or even of very old Makalanga clay huts, such as are fully described in “Native huts found in ruins.” No modern articles were found here. The consequence is there has been in this lower group of ruins very little artificial filling-up of the enclosures, and the ruins are more open and are easier of examination than most of the other ruins at Zimbabwe. But being on lower ground, with a huge bank of granite and soil on the south-western flank, there has been a considerable amount of soil silted into the ruins during the course of hundreds of years, but not to any great depth. The filling-in, both natural, is no more than about 2 ft., as compared with 5 ft. and 7 ft. in other ruins elsewhere where there are abundant signs of native occupation.

LOWER SECTION OF THE “VALLEY OF RUINS”