PREFACE.
I offer, at length, to the public the narrative of my travels in the interior of Africa, which should have appeared long since; several causes have, however, concurred during the fifteen months that have elapsed since my return to my native soil, to retard its publication till the present time. I have brought home, from the regions I have traversed, only fugitive and very laconic notes, written in haste and trepidation: they would have been inexorable evidences against me, had I been surprised tracing unknown characters, and unveiling as it were to the Whites the mysteries of these countries. In Africa, especially in those districts occupied by the Foulahs and the Moors, religious hypocrisy in a stranger is the most flagrant of outrages, and it were a hundred times better to pass there for a Christian, than for a false Mahometan; so that if my mode of travelling had its advantages, which its success has proved, it was also attended with terrible inconveniences. I carried always in my wallet a sentence of death, and how often was that wallet necessarily confided to the hands of enemies! On my arrival in Paris, the notes, written mostly in pencil, were found so faint and so much effaced by time, my wanderings, and my ill fortune, that it required all the tenacity and the scrupulous fidelity of my memory to restore and reproduce them as the basis of my observations and the materials of my narrative.
But that scrupulous fidelity which should always distinguish the compilation of travels, and which I consider the principal merit of mine, demanded that I should consecrate to this work the time necessary to ascertain that I have omitted nothing essential, and to arrange the facts in the exact order in which I had observed and noted them. Another not less legitimate cause of delay arose from a long and dangerous illness which seized me some months after my arrival in France, and exhausted the strength which was left me by the long continued fatigues and privations of a seventeen months’ journey over those burning sands so frequently fatal to our European travellers. To these causes must also be added the extent of my materials, my want of initiation into the art of composition in the most difficult and delicate of languages, and the resolution I had formed to avoid having recourse to a more experienced pen, except for the correction of those errors of style which would naturally escape mine; for I was desirous of offering to the public a composition as entirely my own as the observations on which it was founded; a composition which, however deficient in studied elegance, should at least be simple, clear, and frank, describing the exact extent of my travels and exhibiting the traveller under his peculiar traits. With regret I acknowledge that important observations upon the political and religious institutions, and upon the manners and customs of the people amongst whom I have sojourned, will not be found here; even had my prior studies directed my mind to this species of reflections, the scanty resources at my disposal, and the consequent necessity of a rapid passage, did not permit my residence in any place for a sufficient length of time to furnish a solid foundation for such researches. My principal object was to collect carefully and accurately all the facts, of whatsoever nature, which fell under my inspection, and especially to notice whatever appeared conducive to the improvement of geography and of our commerce with Africa.
A long stay in our establishments of Senegal, and perhaps also, my own experience, had taught me how much this commerce, which, had so long languished, needed new markets and new connections in the interior; but to form these new connections, to impose on the distant population a tribute to our industry, new discoveries were necessary; and increased geographical knowledge was indispensable to enable the government to extend sufficient encouragement to our mercantile establishments on the coast. A strong persuasion of this necessity, of this urgent need, under which our African commerce labours, became in a manner the soul of my inquiries, particularly in a certain portion of my travels. I was convinced that our colonial and all our commercial relations must sooner or later be powerfully influenced by clear and positive information, drawn from the fountain head, and deposited with the government of a king, the zealous and enlightened protector of interests so important, and so nearly affecting, at the present period, the prosperity, and perhaps even, the internal tranquillity of the kingdom.
Have I been fortunate enough to realize in this respect the wishes I had formed, the hopes which, in common with my former compatriots of Senegal, I had dared to conceive, of fulfilling this part of the task which I undertook, and of thus paying my tribute to the government of my country? Let my natural judges, with whom the fruits of my researches are deposited, and let the success of future enterprizes, incited by mine, answer this question for me. It is not for me to estimate the progress which geographical and natural science may owe to my travels. I must leave it to be appreciated by those who so worthily represent them in the capital of the civilized world, and the possession of whose knowledge and talents would have been so delightful, and above all so useful to me, when day after day I found myself alone and left to my own feeble resources in a world as yet unknown to, and unexplored by curious and scientific Europe. Armed with the knowledge and the instruments for which we are indebted to them, I might have hoped to have more fully accomplished the wishes of the Geographical Society, and to have rendered myself more deserving of the flattering and benevolent reception which it has granted me, and of the distinction and rewards which its descriminating patriotism decrees to those who record its efforts; of that Society which, with so much zeal and success, prosecutes the extension of science, and which, by the encouragement it held out to those who should explore the central regions of Africa, confirmed my opinion of the importance of such travels, and determined me in the plan which I had already formed of one day attempting the discovery of Timbuctoo.
In paying this just homage to the Geographical Society, I must not omit one of its most distinguished members, M. Jomard, President of the Central Committee and Member of the Institute, who, since my arrival in France, has without intermission honoured me with his valuable advice and his personal kindness, who has not disdained to unite his name with mine, and has so largely contributed to any success with which this narrative may be honoured, by enriching it with a map founded upon my notes, and with geographical disquisitions upon a continent, the study of which has long been familiar to him, both as a traveller and as a writer. I request him to accept this public testimony of my warmest gratitude.
CONTENTS
OF THE SECOND VOLUME.
Departure for Timbuctoo on the 13th of March — Description of the banks of the river — Slaves released from their chains — Populous villages — Vessels of from sixty to eighty tons burthen — Branch of the river forming a large island — Mode of building canoes — Villages of Banan — Character of the Mandingoes — Description of Lake Debo — Islands called St. Charles, Henry, and Maria-Theresa.
Tongom, a village in the country of the Dirimans — Co — Do — Sa, a commercial port — Mercantile flotillas — The Soorgoos or Tooariks, a nomadic and predatory tribe — Baraconga — Lelel — Garfola — Filinsa — Baracondié — Tircy — Liquor made from the kondoo — Alcodia, the Diriman capital — Customs of the inhabitants — Salacoila — Cora — Coratoo — Separation of the river into two branches — Arrival at Cabra, the port of Timbuctoo — Description of the place.
Journey from Cabra to Timbuctoo — First view of the city — The Kissoors — The king grants the traveller an audience — Condition of the slaves — Description of the city, its buildings, extent, and commerce — Food and dress of the people — Bousbéhey, a city of the Zawats — Toudeyni — Tribe of Salah — Terror inspired by the Tooariks — Description of that tribe — The Jinbalas — Particulars respecting the fate of Major Laing — Reflexions on the means of penetrating to the centre of Africa.
Departure from Timbuctoo on the 4th of May, 1828 — Caravan of six hundred camels — Entrance of the desert — Suffocating heat — The caravan falls in with the Tooariks — Manner in which the Arabs direct their course in the desert — Aspect of Sahara, like the bed of a sea without water — Details respecting the caravans — The place where Major Laing was assassinated — El-Arawan, a city in the desert: its springs, population, and trade — Information respecting Tawât and Walet — Caravan of four hundred camels — Disheartening effect of the view of endless sands.
Violence of the east winds — Pillars of sand — Scarcity of water — Deplorable situation of the caravan — Hills of loose sand — Rocks of granite — Wells of Telig — Toudeyni, rich salt mines — Thistle of the desert — Vexations and persecutions of the Moors, their intolerance — Wells of Cramès — Wells of Trases or Trarzas — Trajacant Moors.
Wells of Amoul-Gragin — Enormous serpents — High sand-hills called Helk — Wells of Amoul-Taf — Hills of various-coloured granite — Wells of el-Ekseif; very good water — Wells called Marabouty, el-Guedea, Mayara, and Sibicia — High and steep mountains, defiles and precipices — A severe fall — Encampment of Sidi-Aly — El-Harib — The Berbers. Tatta — Description of the country at el-Harib, customs; the tribes who inhabit it.
Country of el-Drah — Zawât — el-Hamid — Bounou — Town of Mimcina — Camp of Berbers — Tabelbât — The Tawâts — Wells of Yeneguedel, of Faratissa, of Bohayara — Customs of the Berbers — Wells of Goud-Zenaga, of Zenatyia — Town of el-Yabo — Wells of Chanerou, of Nyela — Arrival at Tafilet — Town of Ghourland — Market — Ressaut, the residence of a Governor under the Emperor of Morocco.
Description of Tafilet and its commerce — Flourishing state of agriculture and industry — Miserable condition of the Jews; their habits and customs — Afilé — Gardens — Taneyara, Marca, M’Dyara, Rahaba — Chains of granite mountains — Small river of Guigo — L’Eyarac, Tamaroc, Kars, Ain-Zeland, L’Eksebi — Very high mountains covered with cork-trees — L’Quin — Guigo — Town of Soforo — Town of el-Fez, or Fez, the ancient capital of Morocco.
Description of el-Fez — Markets, monuments, gardens, police — Mequinaz — Inhospitality — Arm of the sea called Sbo — Arbata or Rabata or Rabat, the ancient Sallee — Visit to the Consular Agent — The traveller avoids the camp of the Emperor of Morocco — Writes to the Vice Consul M. Delaporte — Larache — Arrives at Tangier 7th of September, almost dying, emaciated by want, fatigue, and fever — Generous reception of M. Delaporte — Anxiety of the traveller — Is introduced by night and concealed by the Consul — M. Delaporte obtains from the naval commander of the Cadiz station a vessel to convey him to France.
GEOGRAPHICAL REMARKS AND INQUIRIES.
CHAPTER I.
[§ I.]—General retrospect of the published information on this subject prior to M. Caillié’s travels.
[§ II.]—Analysis of the itinerary map, and of the general map of the travels.
ARTICLE I.
[Early travels of M. Caillié.]
ARTICLE II.
[Map of the traveller’s route.]
[Observations on the course of the Dhioliba as traced from Couroussa to Sego and Djenné.]
ARTICLE III.
[Remarks on the general map of the travels and the elements which serve for its basis.]
[Observations on the situation of Timbuctoo, and particularly on its longitude.]
[Bearings of M. Caillié’s routes.]
[Computation of the days’ journeys.]
[§ III.]—Of the nomenclature.
[§ IV.]—Of some results of the travels of M. Caillié.
[§ V.]—Of the course of the Dhioliba above and below Timbuctoo.
CHAPTER II.
VOCABULARIES COLLECTED BY M. CAILLIÉ.
[English and Mandingo vocabulary.]
[Observations on the vocabularies.]
CHAPTER III.
CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER V.
[Documents and miscellaneous papers.]
![[(Higher-res)]](#734770405647327144_plate02_large.jpg.id-2165656193236577629.wrap-0.html.html){kind=link}
MAP
of the
ROUTE travelled by M. CAILLIE
TO JENNÉ AND TIMBUCTOO,
Compiled from his Journal
By M. JOMARD
Member of the Royal Institute of France
1829
TRAVELS
TO
TIMBUCTOO,
&c., &c.
CHAPTER XIX.
Departure for Timbuctoo on the 13th of March — Description of the banks of the river — Slaves released from their chains — Populous villages — Vessels of from sixty to eighty tons burthen — Branch of the river forming a large island — Mode of building canoes — Villages of Banan — Character of the Mandingoes — Description of Lake Debo — Islands called St. Charles, Henry, and Maria-Theresa.
About half past nine o’clock we left the port. We did not waste much time in adieus; my friends saw me on board, wished me a safe voyage, and departed exclaiming: Salam alécoom, Abdallah. The sherif, with whom the gift of my umbrella rendered me such a favourite, directed me to his correspondent at Timbuctoo, to whom he particularly recommended me in a letter, which he sent by the superintendent of the cargo. I had reason to be grateful for his kind foresight, to which I was indebted for the friendly reception I experienced on my arrival in the capital of the Western Soudan.
Though the heat was beginning to be exceedingly oppressive, I remained on deck, for the canoe was very full. The river makes several windings; its course is rapid; and as it is extremely shallow, we were obliged several times to unload the vessel in order to pass over the sandbanks. The negroes in the neighbourhood helped to load and unload the canoe, and to push it forward; all this, of course, occasioned considerable delay.
About two o’clock we reached the majestic Dhioliba, which flows slowly from W. N. W. At this part it is very deep, and about three times the width of the Seine at the Pont-Neuf. It takes a turn of about two miles to the south; its banks are low and very barren. The distance from Jenné to this river is, I should imagine, about ten miles. After flowing two miles to the southward, it turns to the N. N. E. About four o’clock we arrived at Cougalia, where I had previously crossed the river. Aided by the current I suppose we made about two miles an hour.
A little before sun-set we passed Kera, a pretty little village on the right bank of the river, containing about three hundred inhabitants. It is nearly seven miles from Cougalia. Here the river turns to the N. E. A little to the left there is a small island submerged during the inundation The river is much wider here than at Cougalia, and it is quite as deep. On the plain I observed some slaves tilling the ground; they had pickaxes like those of the Bambaras. We continued our course till near midnight. As I had no compass I observed the direction of our course during the night by the polar star. In the evening we stood to the N. E., still going at the rate of about two miles an hour.
When we lay to, the negroes who had the management of the canoe sought to pick a quarrel with me: they would not allow me to sleep on board. They told me that I had given them nothing, and that if I did not pay them they would put me on shore. I saw very well that their only object was to intimidate me and thereby to extort something from me. I disregarded their threats, and prepared to sleep on board in spite of them, for the cold night air and the damp were very unpleasant. I arranged my resting place as well as I could on a heap of baggage, where I was almost folded double and unable to move. I had not a wink of sleep during the whole night, and the negroes annoyed me in every possible way to induce me to leave the canoe. They even began to address insulting language to me, and threatened to put me on shore next day if I did not satisfy their demands. I suffered much from this annoyance; but the negroes gained nothing by their insolence. When the common people of these countries meet with a stranger who does not speak their language, they think they may insult him with impunity; but it is sufficient to shew firmness to make them more tractable. They gave me for supper a little rice boiled in water, which was the food of the slaves. I had not eaten any thing all day, for there was no possibility of cooking on account of the crowded state of the canoe.
At four in the morning of the 24th of March we stood to the N. E. The sailors pushed forward the canoe with a long pole: they rowed it in deep water, and sometimes towed it along shore.
At this part, the river is about half a mile broad and very deep. Its banks, though low, are adorned with a species of mimosa, which grows only to the height of a small shrub. About seven in the morning we stopped before the village of Soufara, situated on the right bank, on a height which preserves it from the inundation. Beside this village is little stream, which runs in an eastward direction. We went ashore to purchase some maumies and pistachio-nuts for breakfast. In this place there is no regular market; but people go through the streets selling pistachios, and other little productions of the country. The village probably contains about two hundred and fifty inhabitants. They live in wretched huts, built of earth like those of the Bambaras, which do not approach the perfection of the habitations of Jenné. The people catch a great quantity of fish. They generally use nets made of cotton, but sometimes fish with the line. When I returned on board the canoe, the negro who was the master of the slaves and superintendent of the cargo gave me a piece of cake for my breakfast. Fortunately I had provided myself with some on shore, otherwise I should have made a sorry repast. The negroes again importuned me for cowries; but I persisted in my resolution to give them nothing. At half past seven we continued our course. The river now took a northerly direction. It continued wide, and its depth was about ten or twelve feet. This I ascertained by observing the long pole with which the sailors pushed the canoe. It was nearly eleven o’clock when we passed Cabia. In front of this village there are three little islands; here the river takes a turn to the N. E. and becomes narrower. About two o’clock I observed its direction was north, and at half past three, north-east. Its width and depth continued much the same; its banks were barren and low. On both sides I observed immense plains, the uniformity of which was broken only by some ronniers which rise majestically to the height of about eighty feet from the ground and bound the horizon. About five in the afternoon we perceived the village of Taco, which is situated on the left bank.
At sun-set I discerned, in the direction of the east, two little hills about six miles from the bank of the river, which in this part runs to the north. About seven in the evening we stopped before the village of Coona, which is inhabited by Foulahs, who live in straw huts. In the port there were some canoes, all going to Timbuctoo. Here we could plainly perceive the two hills I have just mentioned, and a little to the north-east were three others of similar height. We passed the night in this village, which, like Taco, is situated on the left bank.
On the 25th of March I was informed that the great canoe which was to convey us to Timbuctoo was in the port and ready for our reception. It was covered with mats, and laden with rice, millet, cotton, honey, vegetable butter, and other productions of the country. The canoe appeared to me very fragile; like the smaller ones its planks were joined with cords; its burthen was about sixty tons.
We were occupied all day in getting the merchandise from the small canoe, and putting it on board the large one. There was on the shore a great concourse of people, all engaged in some kind of labour; they had pitched tents to shelter themselves from the heat, which was excessive. The negroes offered us their merchandise for sale. On seeing them I almost imagined myself in a market on the banks of the Senegal. The village is situated on a little eminence, and is scantily shaded by ronniers and mimosas. The heat was suffocating. I went to visit the market, which was very badly provided; for it was then the time of the Ramadan: there was a little milk, some pistachios, dry and fresh fish, maumies, and other light articles of food. The people looked at me with indifference. The young girls, who offered their merchandise for sale, had a very pleasing mode of address; but I bought nothing, on account of the presence of the Foulahs, who are even more fanatical than the Moors, and who, if they had seen me eat, would have set me down for an infidel. My hosts at Jenné had however made me promise that I would not fast on my passage, observing that I could make up by fasting at Timbuctoo for the number of days during which I might neglect the practice of that religious duty. I sat down beneath a tree on the bank of the river, and amused myself for a short time by observing a group of young negroes of both sexes, who were bathing, dancing and gamboling about in the water.
A little to the north of the village the river is intersected by a sand-bank. This bank was covered by a multitude of water-fowl of various kinds, whose white plumage looked like a sheet of snow in the midst of the river. The channel for the passage of canoes is near the right bank. The surrounding country is very barren: not a single shrub is to be seen. The soil consists of immense marshes, which are inundated at the swell of the waters. The shore on either side is so extremely low that the river seems on the point of overflowing its banks. In the village I met with a Moorish trader, who was returning from Timbuctoo in a common canoe, laden with salt. He told me that he had been a month on his way from Cabra to Coona. I invited him to come on board our vessel and take a little refreshment of dokhnou and water. Dokhnou, as I have before observed, consists of a mixture of the flour of millet and honey, which is afterwards mixed with water for drink. He requested me to wait until sun-set on account of the Foulahs, who, if they saw us drink, would have a bad opinion of us. He left me to take a turn in the village, but I did not see him again.
In the port, there were many fishermen’s canoes. When the fishermen catch their fish, either with the net or the line, they dry it in the sun and sell it to the vessels which are continually stopping in their port: they also carry it to Jenné for sale. At two o’clock in the afternoon, I was informed that dinner was ready, and was asked whether I would partake of it; for the slaves were not required to fast, and I was ranked among them. That I might not be observed by any one, I went on board the canoe to take my dinner at my ease. It consisted of a little boiled millet-flour, without any seasoning. After this frugal repast, the slaves were freed from their chains, and I was gratified in witnessing the pleasure which these poor creatures experienced during their temporary release from bondage. They appeared perfectly happy. They tried to walk, but it was with difficulty that they could move a few steps, for the chains which they had worn since they left Jenné had wounded their feet.
Having nothing more to detain us in the village, we left it in the afternoon during a calm, taking a northern direction. The large canoe did not get on so well as the small one which we had left behind us, consequently we scarcely made two miles an hour.
About five o’clock we passed Taguetia, situated on the left bank. In front of this village a marigot, or branch, about twenty-five or thirty fathoms wide, runs off to the east. The village of Sangouno is on one of the banks of this branch. At its mouth are two little islands, about a quarter of a mile in circumference, on which are some fishermen’s huts. The river still continues of the same width, running to the north. It is very deep, and its banks are low and barren.
At ten at night we stopped at Sankhaguibila. At this place the river takes a turn to the east, and then to the north. The inhabitants hold a little market, to which they bring milk and dried fish, which the negroes of the canoes purchase, and pay for in cowries, the only money current on the banks of the river as far as Timbuctoo. People came from all sides with earthen pots, calabashes, mats, and various other kinds of merchandise. This village probably contains about four hundred inhabitants, consisting of Foulahs, Mandingoes, and Bambaras from Jenné.
At three o’clock on the morning of the 26th, we quitted the village of Sankhaguibila, the huts of which are all of straw, and badly constructed. We advanced slowly to the west. At sun-rise we found the river take a turn to the north. Its banks are adorned with a few dwarf shrubs.
At four in the afternoon we passed Diébé, situated on the right and before which there is a sand-bank. In general, all these villages resemble each other. The population varies but little. We stopped here nearly two hours to escape the north wind, which was blowing furiously, and which, in all probability, would have destroyed our frail bark. When it ceased we continued our course, and at nine o’clock we lay to at Isaca, where we passed that night and the following day. During the night the wind changed to the north-east, and there was a good breeze stirring. The banks of the river are so low that the least wind prevents the canoes making way; for when the water is ever so little agitated the waves dash over their sides and sink them; an accident of frequent occurrence. The population of Isaca may amount to seven or eight hundred, all Foulahs. Their houses, which are built of bricks baked in the sun, resemble those of the Bambaras.
The inhabitants brought us fresh fish, sour milk, and butter, which we purchased. The butter was rolled up into little balls of the size of crab-apples, for which we paid six cowries each. In this village I saw a great quantity of dried fish, an article in which the inhabitants traffic very considerably. They carry it to Jenné and other neighbouring markets. The great arm of the river which, as the negroes informed me, branches off from Sego, and forms an immense island, rejoins the river a quarter of a mile from Isaca. This arm, which comes from the west, is very broad, and seems to be navigable for large boats. It has not a rapid current; indeed, the water appears to be almost stagnant. The village is situated on the right bank of the river, and is inhabited by Foulahs, similar to those of Fouta-Dhialon. They are the subjects of Sego-Ahmadou, the capital of which al-Lamdou Lillahi, is a day’s journey eastward from Isaca. They rear flocks, which are their principal wealth, and cultivate rice in the plains, inundated by the overflow of the waters. They fish with nets made of cotton cord.
The women manufacture a beautiful kind of pottery, which they sell at Jenné, and to the canoes going to Timbuctoo. The village is situated on a little eminence; it is a great market for provisions.
Before I proceed further I will give a description of the canoes which are employed in the passage from Jenné to Timbuctoo, and which keep up a continually active trade along the whole extent of the river. Little flotillas of sixty or eighty boats are frequently seen all richly laden with various kinds of produce.
A vessel of sixty, or eighty tons burthen, is about ninety or one hundred feet long, twelve or fourteen broad at midships, and draws six or seven feet depth of water. These canoes, whether large or small, are generally fragile, and it is astonishing how they bear the heavy cargoes with which they are laden, and which consist of rice, millet, butter, honey, onions, pistachios, colat-nuts, stuffs, and various kinds of preserved articles. In addition to their cargo they frequently have on board forty or fifty slaves, half of whom remain on deck.
The crew consists of sixteen or eighteen sailors, two steersmen, and a superior, who acts as captain. The manner in which these vessels are built shews their want of solidity. Large planks, five feet long by eight inches broad, and about one inch thick,[1] are adjusted and fixed together by ropes made from the hemp of the country and the leaves of the ronnier. These ropes possess the property of lasting a long time in water, an advantage of great importance in this country, where the inhabitants do not avail themselves of the use of iron.
The workmen first of all join the planks together; but they do not unite closely, and large interstices are left in this first joining. The seams are then caulked over with bruised straw, reduced to a sort of oakum, and mixed with a soft kind of clay, found in the morasses and on the banks of the river. The interstices thus filled up, the seams are closely covered with fresh straw, and the whole is strongly fastened by a second joining; this renders the canoe sufficiently solid for the purpose of navigating the river At the bottom, wooden bars are laid at certain distances to consolidate the whole mass; and similar bars are placed higher up, for supporting the deck. The hull being finished, it is covered over with small pieces of flexible wood, bent in a convex form, across which, other pieces of smaller size are fixed. This forms the deck, which is raised three feet and a half above the sides, and covered over with mats, made in the country from the leaves of the ronnier. The lightest merchandise is placed on the deck, or orlop, and is firmly lashed to the gunwales of the vessel, forming a sort of barrier, not very high, but sufficiently so to prevent the slaves, who sleep on deck, from rolling into the water. The vessel is loaded to the height of two feet and a half or three feet above the deck, even on the prow.
As they are unacquainted with the use of pumps, they leave in the middle of the canoe an open space, where two men are constantly stationed, and whose business it is to bale out the water which makes its way through the seams of the vessel. In spite of the quickness with which they work, the water on board is never less than half a foot deep. These men keep watch as in our European ships, and they are relieved every six hours. They use large calabashes to bale the vessel. I observed that this part of the canoe is always covered with moss of a fine green colour. This is also the place where the women kindle fires to cook the victuals of the crew; for which purpose they provide themselves with portable earthenware stoves. These stoves are in the form of chaffing-dishes, round and open, and are composed of glazed earthenware. They are manufactured at Jenné, or in its environs, and are nearly four feet in circumference. They are furnished with three little supports, forming a tripod, on which the pot, used for boiling the rice, rests. These portable stoves obviate all danger that might be apprehended from the use of fire on board the vessels. Before the cargo is put on board, the hold is lined with thick pieces of wood, to prevent the goods being damaged by damp.
These vessels being unprovided with sails, cannot make way except in very calm weather; they are besides so frail, that the slightest wind agitating the river (the banks of which are very low) produces waves, which, by dashing against the sides of the canoes, would either damage or swamp them. This danger often causes delay, and renders the navigation tedious and perilous. When the banks are entirely free from bushes, the sailors row or tow the vessel along, and when they can reach the bottom of the river with poles, they push it. In this manner the greater part of the passage is effected, and it was by means of these poles, which are about twelve or fifteen feet long, that I was enabled to judge of the depth of the river. It is very difficult to find wood of such a length in this country, and it is necessary to fix two pieces together lengthwise to form the poles. It sometimes happens that the banks are covered with bushes, and that the river is so deep that these poles cannot reach the bottom; in such cases the sailors move the vessel forward by paddles three feet long; and a place for the rowers is left open, quite at the fore part of the vessel, occupying only twelve or fourteen feet. They sometimes stand up close against the side of the vessel, and at other times sit upon the merchandise, having scarcely room to turn themselves round in consequence of the crowded state of the canoe. These men are naked; they row very fast, and keep time.
The master stands at the stern and steers the vessel, not without difficulty, by a long pole instead of a rudder. He experiences a good deal of trouble in managing the unwieldy machine, so that it is often found necessary for two others to assist him. A rudder like that attached to the boats which descend the Seine, would be extremely serviceable, but at present the people are ignorant of the use of such a thing. Each of these vessels has a captain, who maintains great authority over his crew, and I never witnessed any abuse of this authority, as is sometimes the case with us, especially in the merchant service. All the negro sailors who navigate the river are slaves; there are also some captains of this class, whose employers give them half of what they earn. Free men think themselves degraded by accepting such employment.
On the 28th, at four o’clock in the morning, the wind fell and we continued our course towards the north. The breadth of the river did not vary, and its banks continued low and naked. About seven o’clock in the morning the N. E. wind blew stronger than on the preceding day, and we were obliged to anchor before a large plain of white quicksand, which, when inundated by the rising of the waters, forms a great bank; the channel is on the left side of the river. The wind, blowing up the sand in great quantities, added to the inconvenience we were suffering from the heat.
To lighten the canoe all the slaves were set on shore, and the rice-grinders were sent to continue their work on the plain. At sunset the wind fell a little, and the oars might have been used during the whole of the night, but the negroes, to whom time is of no value, and who are never in a hurry to reach their destination, thought proper to wait till morning.
The slaves, male and female, all Bambaras, began to leap, dance, and amuse themselves in various ways. Their gaiety, however, proved the cause of some trouble to us, for the Foulahs, observing them, came on board at night-fall in a party of about thirty, armed with bows and pikes. They severely censured the impropriety of allowing the slaves to dance during the Ramadan, observing that it was like making a scoff of religion, and that, as a punishment for such misconduct, a fine of five thousand cowries (a sum equal to twenty-five francs) must be paid. The master, to whose charge the slaves had been committed, earnestly defended the cause of his employer. A spirited altercation arose between the parties, who were seated in a circle upon the sand. The Foulahs for some time shewed no disposition to forego their demands, but at length they were taught reason, and the dispute ended at the expense of the poor slaves, who, as a punishment for dancing during this sacred season, were each condemned to receive five lashes on the back. The sentence, however, was not executed with much severity, and it did not restrain the slaves from resuming their dance as soon as the fanatical Foulahs departed.
From motives of prudence, I had for some time kept myself apart from this scene, but I felt curious to know, before the departure of these rigid defenders of Islamism, what was the subject of dispute. I therefore approached the spot where they were and sat down on the sand beside them. They were astonished at seeing me, for I had hitherto escaped their observation, owing to the interest they took in discussing the subject of the five thousand cowries, which they conceived they had a right to exact. They told the master that I must certainly be the chief of the canoe and the proprietor of the cargo; that I must doubtless have money; and that I must make them a handsome present.
The master answered them that I was a poor Arab, whom the christians had carried off from his country when a boy, and that I was proceeding to Mecca, to seek my relatives. This explanation seemed to satisfy them, for they asked no more questions about me.
The proprietor of the canoe had put a Mandingo negro on board, to take care of the cargo. This person was also directed to attend to me; a duty which he performed very negligently, for, after leaving Jenné, he gave me nothing but rice boiled in water, the food of the slaves. He was more strict than the Moors, and fasted on the voyage, not partaking of any thing until a repast was served to us at half past six in the evening. This was the best meal I had throughout the day, for he added a little dry fish and vegetable butter to the dish. However, he made me eat at other times with the slaves. I complained of this treatment, but the only reply given to my repeated remonstrances was, that he did not choose to have the trouble of lighting a fire for only one person, and that I must be content with what he gave me. Not being able to do better, I patiently bore my misfortune, and considered myself lucky when I procured a little sour milk to relish my dinner.
On the 29th of March, about three o’clock in the morning, we again put off. During the night time, the polar star served me for a compass, and the position of the stars enabled me to guess the hour. About nine o’clock a fresh breeze having sprung up, we were obliged to wait till midday, when we began to move on. At two o’clock we again stopped. The excessive heat brought upon me an attack of fever, which, fortunately, was not followed by any bad consequences. At five o’clock in the evening, the wind dropped, and we were enabled to continue our voyage. At sun-set, we passed a village on the left bank, close to which an arm of the river branches off to the west. At eight in the evening, we found ourselves before Wanza, having constantly advanced in a northern direction. We lay to about one o’clock in the morning, at a point where there was no village. Here the river might be three quarters of a mile broad, and from eight to nine feet deep; the banks were uniformly low and bare.
On the 30th of March, at six in the morning, we put off, still in the same direction. About nine o’clock, a violent north-east wind arose, and obliged us to halt before the village of Sansan. Here the river is of considerable breadth, but the banks being ornamented with mimosas, presented a pleasing prospect after the long absence of all vegetation. About five in the evening, the wind falling a little, we advanced to the north-east. The country on either side of the river was covered with numerous herds of oxen, whose lowing was heard at a great distance; they belonged to the Foulahs, residing in a village at some distance from the shore, and whose only property is their cattle. At six in the evening, we passed over a sand-bank, extending across the river, which is here a full mile in breadth. The canoe ran aground several times, and the men were obliged to jump into the water in order to get it afloat, for which about four feet and a half water was requisite. By great efforts we gained the channel, which runs near the right bank. Here I saw thousands of trumpet-birds, which came down in flocks upon the sand banks, and by their shrill cries seemed to sound a charge upon the fish, destined by nature for their prey. There were also great numbers of ducks, water-fowl, puffets, pelicans, and egrets, and multitudes of the other varieties of water birds, which inhabit these marshes, and brood undisturbed by the people of the surrounding countries. Powder is a very scarce article here, and lead is unknown; pikes, therefore, form the only arms of the inhabitants.
We continued our course till midnight; when, our wearied rowers requiring rest, we moored the vessel to two stakes fixed in the shore, and went to sleep.
On the thirty-first of March, at six in the morning, we started in a northern direction. At seven we passed the village of Corocoïla, situated on the right bank. This place contained from five to six hundred inhabitants, chiefly Foulahs, and also some who came originally from Jenné. In all the villages on the banks of the river the same language is spoken as at Timbuctoo and Jenné; it is called the Kissour. The Foulah language also is spoken in those places. The banks of the river were still covered with numerous herds of oxen.
At ten o’clock, we lay to about two miles to the north of Cobi. Between this small village and Corocoïla is a pretty little island, about two miles in circumference, covered with the finest vegetation; I was astonished to find it uninhabited. In the evening we made three miles towards the north, for the purpose of reaching Cona, the first village in the country of Banan, which the negroes call Banan-dougou (land of Banan). Cona contains about eight hundred inhabitants, all negroes. There are in the country some Mandingoes and Foulahs, who are engaged in trade. It is situated on the right bank of the river, and its environs are marshy.
The people on board our vessel purchased tamarinds, earthen pots, and untanned ox-hides used for packing. The inhabitants brought us milk, giraumons, and other articles.
In this place I met two Moors from Adrar, owners of a very large canoe of eighty tons burden at least. They were going to Timbuctoo to dispose of the merchandise they had bought at Jenné. A small vessel of seven or eight tons, was employed to carry themselves and provisions for their use and it followed the large canoe at various distances; for the latter, encumbered with merchandise, advanced but slowly.
After introducing themselves, they invited me to partake of their boiled rice and some milk, while supper was preparing. About seven in the evening they proceeded on their passage, but we stayed until the next day. Several of our men went to the village to make small purchases for a venture. Banan is independent of Ségo-Ahmadou: it is situated upon the right bank of the river, and extends very far to the east. The inhabitants are all Mahometans, and the slaves, who are very numerous, are employed in tilling the ground. The people build canoes, and make voyages to Jenné and Timbuctoo. They are very rich in herds of oxen, sheep and goats, and rear great quantities of poultry. They are very industrious, and manufacture cotton stuffs, which they sell to the people of the neighbouring towns and villages. The cotton tree, which they cultivate, flourishes exceedingly in this place. They also make cloth from the wool of sheep, for the purpose of traffic.
I saw the inhabitants, who never go out unless armed with pikes, and bows and arrows. They have woolly hair and a very black complexion, and are in other respects like the Mandingoes, to which race indeed they belong, though they speak another language.
About ten at night, we left the village of Cona, with a fine moon-light that would have favoured our progress, but the negroes thought proper to lie to at eleven o’clock. As soon as the vessels are anchored they betake themselves to sleep, without leaving any one to keep watch, for they are not accustomed to such duty when at anchor.
On the 1st of April, at six in the morning, we made ready to start: a breeze was blowing, which however, about midnight so encreased in violence, that we were compelled to stop. Had we attempted to proceed, the canoe would infallibly have been destroyed; for during this gale it made more water than usual.
The frequent halts which we were obliged to make were very annoying to me; for I was obliged to remain on board exposed to the heat of the sun. How pleased should I have been had the adjacent country been like the smiling shores of the Senegal! But here the immense monotonous plains on all sides fatigue the eye of the traveller.
The course of the river, though winding in some parts, is still northward. On the morning of the 1st of April, I observed a large hill, about two hundred and fifty feet high, distant three or four miles from the left bank of the river. It was without vegetation, and appeared to be composed of red sand.
We daily expected the owner of the canoe, who, on departing from Jenné, promised to join us in two days. He had assured me, that even in his absence I should be well treated on board. The case, however, was quite the reverse, so I looked for him with the utmost impatience, trusting that his presence would better my condition.
After my departure from Jenné, I had the misery of being the only white man among the negroes, and with their language I was unacquainted. This circumstance, joined to my being a stranger, and almost destitute, emboldened them to insult me in the grossest manner. I was absolutely ranked and treated as a slave.
During the day the heat was excessive, and I had great trouble to find a place where I could be shaded from the burning sun, which was almost insupportable, even in a state of inaction. In the night I slept on deck, for there was no room for me below. I was exposed to the dew and all the inclemency of the night; but I took the precaution of wrapping myself in a sheep-skin. However, this did not prevent me from being seized, on the 31st March, with a violent fit of illness. I experienced severe numbness, followed by great weakness, and my stomach rejected food.
During my illness I was permitted to go into the cabin; but the place assigned me there was very inconvenient. I was with a Mandingo and his female slave; and they allowed me so little room that I could not lie straight; my head touched my knees. I had been particularly recommended to the care of this negro by the sherif Oulad-Marmou; but he paid no regard to the directions he had received, and showed as little pity for me as the rest of the crew. I ought, however, to exempt from this censure a young Foulah from Massina, to whom the sherif had also recommended me. He was the only one who had behaved to me with any kindness. He went on shore whenever I asked him, bought me milk, and rendered me all the service he could. He even endeavoured to console me when I expressed dissatisfaction at the inattention with which I was treated by the rest. He often reprimanded the slaves, who, following the example of their superiors, behaved with the grossest insolence towards me. In short, I should have been much worse off had it not been for the attention of this kind-hearted young man.
In the course of my travels I have often had intercourse with the Mandingoes, and, with the single exception of those of Cambaya, in the Fouta, I have always found them arrogant when possessed of any little authority, while they are fawning, mean, and servile, to their superiors. I have seen them, in the passage from Tinné to Jenné, insult the poor Bambaras while selling their merchandise, speaking harshly to them, and even abusing them in their own language; but whenever the Bambaras showed a disposition to resent this treatment, the Mandingoes became all at once silent and humble. The women have the same faults, in addition to which they have insufferably harsh voices.
On the 1st of April, the wind continued blowing till four in the evening, when it fell a little. We rowed in a northern direction. Near half past six in the evening we halted at Toï. The river still continued the same; the banks being low and bare, and in many places not a single shrub can be seen. At nine o’clock, we started, and all night advanced towards the north. The river makes a few small windings to the east.
On the 2nd of April the weather continued calm. Towards eight o’clock in the morning we passed some large islands, situated not far from the mouth of the lake Débo. The river is here divided by several islands, which separate it into different narrow branches of great depth. Two of these islands are larger than the rest, and might be habitable, for, when the river overflows, they are only partially inundated. On one of these islands, there are the huts of fishermen, and of shepherds, whose numerous flocks find rich pasture on the marshes. These marshes are covered by aquatic birds of every kind. There is an infinite number of other small islands covered with rank grass, and inundated at all seasons. When this immense river overflows all the herbage is under water, and then the lake appears much more extensive; its banks are no longer perceptible, and it might be mistaken for an inland Sea.
After a slow navigation, during which we made repeated halts, we reached the mouth of the great lake about three in the afternoon. About six miles S. W. of this entrance, there is a rock in the form of a truncated sugarloaf; it is situated in an inundated marsh which is covered with green herbage. This enormous rock, which is quite bare, forms a singular contrast with the freshness of the surrounding vegetation. As it has, though a very striking land-mark, received no name from the natives, I thought proper to give it one, and have named the whole spot St. Charles’s Island. In the lake, and about nine or ten miles to the N. E. is a small island on which I observed some trees almost destitute of leaves. It is capable of being inhabited, and affords facilities for the formation of a good port. I have named it Henry Island, in honour of his Royal Highness the Duke of Bourdeaux. A third island, also formed of rock, is situated between these two, a little to the eastward of the line which would intersect them, and to it I have given the name of Maria-Theresa, in honour of her Royal Highness the Dauphiness. Two of these islands appear to command the mouth of the lake. Were a fort built on one of the three it would command the environs, and the navigation would be under the control of the possessor.
To the N. N. E. of the island of Maria-Theresa we observed a hill about fifty or sixty fathoms high. It is composed of red earth, and of large porous rocks of the same colour. Some fishermen have established themselves on the declivity of this hill, which is extremely arid.
Land is seen on every side of the lake except on the west, where it spreads out like an inland sea. On coasting along its northern side, and steering nearly W. N. W. to the distance of fifteen miles, we leave on the left a tongue of very flat land, which extends several miles southward. It seems to close the passage of the lake, and to form a kind of strait. Beyond this barrier the lake is prolonged, as I have said, towards the west, until it is lost in the horizon.
The barrier I have just mentioned divides lake Debo into two lakes, the upper and the lower. That through which the boats passed, and in which the three islands I have mentioned are situated, is very large. It extends in an easterly direction, and is surrounded by extensive marshes. Land is visible on every side.
When we had advanced as far as the middle of the first division, three of the large boats fired some muskets, to salute this majestic lake, and the crew of each boat shouted with all their might Salam! Salam! repeating the cry several times. We stood off from the eastern bank and navigated with great caution: the lake was calm and the water clear. The current was not perceptible on its surface, the depth of the part which we navigated was twelve or thirteen feet. The canoes were merely rowed, and advanced very slowly. I could not recover from my surprise at seeing so great a mass of water in the heart of the country. There was something very majestic in the sight.
About five in the evening we arrived off Gabibi, a small fishing village on the right bank of the lake. The huts of this village are made of straw and of a round form. Since we entered the lake we had stood to the N. E. We passed close to the island of Maria-Theresa, on which I observed some fine granite of a bright chesnut colour. We took our departure from Gabibi, and at sun-set I saw, for the first time, since I left the coast, that luminary sink into a sort of ocean.
We proceeded along the shore, at some distance from it, in the direction of W. N. W. The boatmen sang while they pushed along the canoe with their poles. We observed large blocks of granite on the shore. We brought to about eleven at night off Didhiover, a large village inhabited by Foulahs, who have only straw huts like those of the pastoral Foulahs. Some negroes went to the village to buy giraumons. We could not procure a single drop of milk.
CHAPTER XX.
Tongom, a village in the country of the Dirimans — Co — Do —Sa, a commercial port — Mercantile flotillas — The Soorgoos or Tooariks, a nomadic and predatory tribe — Baraconga — Lelel — Garfola —Filinsa — Baracondié — Tircy — Liquor made from the kondoo — Alcodia, the Diriman capital — Customs of the inhabitants — Salacoila — Cora — Coratoo — Separation of the river into two branches — Arrival at Cabra, the port of Timbuctoo — Description of the place.
On the 3rd of April we took our departure from the village of Didhiover, which is situated near the northern entrance of the lake. The river on issuing from the lake may be about six miles broad. At sun-rise we stood towards the north. In the course of the morning we passed the village of Tongom, which belongs to the country of the Dirimans. It contains about four or five hundred inhabitants.
About one in the afternoon, we lay to at a spot where we observed bushes and cut some for fire-wood. At this spot the river is only about three quarters of a mile broad. I went ashore with the slaves. The land, which is subject to inundations, is not destitute of vegetation. I saw naucleas and mimosas twelve feet high. In the course of the voyage, the master of the canoe asked me to lend him five thousand cowries, until the Moor, who was the owner, and who was daily expected, should arrive. The negro had already cheated me more than once, and as I was apprehensive that I should never be repaid, which would have infallibly been the case, I refused to lend him such a sum. He made several individuals apply to me for him, but I would not comply. Finding that I was determined not to lend him the cowries, he threw out threats against me, and went so far as to pull me by the legs to make me leave the boat. He collected what articles belonged to me and threw them on deck, accompanying the action with many violent and rude expressions. He intimated that he would drive me among the slaves, and thus insulted me in a thousand different ways.
When I went on shore he objected to my going in the small boat. I knew not to whom I could complain of all these vexations, for there was no person on board who could protect me. At last the young Foulah obtained his consent to my going in the little canoe, to be put on shore along with some slaves. On landing, I seated myself under the shade of a mimosa, and, reflecting sorrowfully on the disagreeable situation in which I should be placed during the voyage if I did not lend him the cowries, I resolved to make that sacrifice. He came on shore to me, and assailed me with fresh reproaches, insisting at the same time that I certainly ought to place confidence in him, and assuring me that he would repay the debt on the arrival of his master. Though my resources were greatly diminished, and I felt that the strictest economy was indispensible, I promised for the sake of peace to lend him a thousand cowries. From that moment our quarrel terminated. His example was however followed by one of his comrades. These two negroes completely abused the advantage which circumstances had given them over me; and when we arrived at Timbuctoo I found it impossible to procure repayment.
About three o’clock in the afternoon, while we were proceeding on our voyage, the canoe, which had put off from the shore with the slaves to bring them on board, sunk in consequence of being leaky and overloaded. The poor women, embarrassed by the weight of the pagnes about their loins, were in the greatest danger: but prompt assistance was given and every one was got on board without any further accident. It is usual to anchor the boats close to the banks of the river, but when the canoe filled we were under way.
The river here makes an elbow towards the east of about six miles; it then stretches towards the north. It is every where broad and deep, but the banks are low and bare.
About seven in the evening we anchored opposite Mujo, a village of the Diriman country, containing from three hundred and fifty to four hundred inhabitants. The huts are of straw and in the sugar-loaf form. In the evening I was informed of the arrival of Sidi-Mbark,[2] the owner of our vessel. I immediately went to him and complained of the bad conduct of his people to me, but he paid little attention to my representations: he was along with a Moorish friend on board a small boat of six tons burthen. He had determined to get under way, immediately in order to reach Timbuctoo before us. I expressed a wish to go with him in his boat which moved rapidly, but he alleged that it was already too heavily laden, and that besides it was so small that there was not sleeping room for me. He once more consigned me to the care of the Mandingo, ordering him to supply me with provisions during the remainder of the voyage, and to treat me better than he had hitherto done. Sidi-Mbark afterwards tried to console me, advising me to have patience, and assuring me that we were not far from Cabra, which was the place of our destination.
The Moors of Adrar, whom I had seen in the country of Banan, stopped with us at the same spot. They sent Sidi-Mbark a plentiful supper, consisting of rice, and dried meat, seasoned with giraumons and the small onions of the country. He invited me to partake of the meal; and I accepted his invitation with pleasure, for it was late and I had not yet supped. The Moors shew great address in eating with the fingers; for my part, however, though I had long been accustomed to take my food by handfuls, I was still far from being as expert as they: I sometimes let part of the mess fall on the ground which gave them great offence, and made them vent their anger in maledictions on the Christians, who, they observed, had not even taught me how to eat decently. This was the first comfortable meal I had made since my departure from Jenné. Sidi-Mbark gave his men colat-nuts to purchase provisions. I returned on board our boat, where I soon learned how little regard was paid to the directions of the master when he was absent.
At sun-rise we stood towards the north, at the rate of two miles an hour, leaving Mbark asleep in his boat; he soon got up with us however, for he had six good rowers: he came alongside of our boat and put on board some merchandise, which had embarrassed him on account of the room it occupied. He then gave his final orders and left us, expressing his hope that every man would do his duty. The river takes a turn to the west, the banks continue low, but at this spot, the right bank was not entirely destitute of wood. At ten o’clock we came to a spot were it made an elbow towards the N. E. About half past ten we passed Co, a large village, in the environs of which we observed some tamarind-trees and ronniers: the left bank is formed by sand hills. There is a little island in the midst of the river opposite to Co; it is inhabited by five or six hundred Foulahs who have numerous flocks. At noon we found the course of the river turning towards the N. E. and we proceeded with it in that direction until half-past four, when it elbowed round to the north. At this hour we passed in front of Do. The river then stretched westward. It is still broad and deep enough for the boatmen to use their paddles in navigating. At half-past six we halted at Sa, a large village surrounded with a wall and shaded by some tamarind-trees, (tamarindus indicus). This was the only village with a wall which I had seen on the banks of the river since we left Isaca. Here we joined from thirty to forty large boats, all bound for Timbuctoo. Many of these vessels were of about eighty tons burthen. Sa is a rendezvous for the vessels which navigate in this direction. It is their practice to assemble at this port and to proceed on the voyage together, to guard against the depredations of a tribe in the neighbourhood of this town, who often board their boats and commit acts of violence and robbery. They are called by the natives Soorgoos, and by the Moors Tooariks. There were in the port of Sa from four to five hundred persons, seamen and inhabitants, who gazed at the flotilla. The port was covered with bales of merchandise, ready to be shipped on board the canoes. The commercial activity appeared astonishing. There was something in the appearance of the flotilla far more interesting than I could have expected to find in the interior of Africa. The bustle on every side almost made me fancy myself in a trading port of Europe. The largest vessels belong to Moors, who carry on the principal trade of the country: they form themselves into companies, and employ their canoes in conveying merchandise to Timbuctoo, where they are paid their freight in salt or cowries.
On the 5th of April, at sun-rise, we got under way and steered a northerly course until eleven o’clock, when we came to a bend in the river, which then flowed towards the N. E. On every side we heard the joyous cries of the sailors, who also fired muskets, still more strongly to express their gladness. We passed the village of Baraconga, which is situated on the left bank. About one o’clock we anchored before Tantala, a pretty village, where we bought some dry fish, milk, and fine mats made of ronnier leaves. They are of a long shape and yellow colour; they are used for sleeping on, and for making sacks.
We continued our course to the N. E. until sun-set, when we passed a large branch of the river, which runs westerly. About seven o’clock we brought to at Cooma, where we passed the night. The river and its banks still presented the same uniformity of aspect.
On the 6th of April, at five in the morning, we got under way, and stood towards the east. The course of the river was in that direction, but with a number of small sinuosities on the northern and southern sides. About three in the afternoon we passed Lelel, a large village, containing from five to six hundred inhabitants, and situated on the left bank. A little before it reaches this village the river elbows round to the north for a mile and a half, and then turns back to the east. At half past four in the evening we passed Garfola, a village without a wall, and very much resembling the former. I observed around it multitudes of Barbary ducks and other aquatic birds. The banks in the neighbourhood of this village are somewhat elevated. Some baobabs, bombaces, tamarinds, somps, mimosas, and naucleas, adorn the environs. The river may be here about half a mile broad. About seven o’clock we anchored at Doboo, where we passed the night.
On the 7th of April we waited to give time to the heavy boats, which we had left astern, to come up, and, about eight in the morning, stood towards the N. E. with a gentle breeze, favourable for that course. However, as it soon began to blow fresh, we anchored, about nine o’clock, at Filinsa, a village containing five hundred inhabitants. A great number of canoes were under repair in the port. I saw the carpenters at work: the only tool they used was a small hatchet, in the form of an adze, with which they shaped out, awkwardly enough, little pieces of plank, the greater part of which appeared to be in a state of decay. They were indeed fragments of old canoes which were thus used for repairs. When there was a hole in the side of a canoe, these carpenters clapped a bit of plank upon it, and fastened it, or, as it were, stitched it on with rope, made of the bark of trees. These patches are always very ill fitted, but the apertures which are left are stopped up with a mixture of bruised straw and clay. This compound is covered with a layer of fresh straw, which is fixed by a second stitching with bark-rope. I am astonished that boats thus constructed do not sink as soon as they are afloat. A man is kept constantly employed in baling them, to prevent their filling with the water which penetrates through the seams. These canoes belonged to fishermen. Young girls, half naked, came on board to us with milk and fresh butter.
The N. E. wind continued to blow till three o’clock, and it was five in the morning before we began to prepare for prosecuting our voyage. We had scarcely gone a mile when we observed that two large boats had fallen astern, and we thought it right to wait for them. We were then off Baracondié, a village opposite to which there is a large island, which is inundated when the water is high. All the villages from lake Debo belong to the Diriman country, which extends to a great distance easterly. A number of pastoral Foulahs also inhabit the banks of the river, and remove with their flocks when the inundations commence.
On the 8th of April, at five in the morning, we left Baracondié and directed our course westerly. About eleven we brought to off the village of Tircy. The N. E. wind, Which blew a gale, obliged us to anchor. Here the river takes a turn towards the north. The village of Tircy contains about six hundred inhabitants; it consists of straw huts, of the same form as those of the pastoral Foulahs who inhabit the banks of the Senegal.
In the surrounding marshes I observed a number of negroes gathering a large herb, which grows only in marshy grounds. This plant is called kondoo: they dry it in the sun, and then pass it rapidly over a flame to burn off the leaves, as the stalks only are preserved. Of these they make large bundles, which they carry home on their heads. I also saw several asses loaded with these bundles. I asked my comrades what was done with this plant: they told me, that after it is well washed and dried by the women, it is reduced to a fine powder, which is put into a large earthen vase, having the bottom perforated with small holes. Upon the powder warm water is poured, and, in filtering, the water becomes impregnated with the essence of the plant, which is of a saccharine nature. The liquor thus obtained is much esteemed by the natives, who relish it greatly; but it has the effect of a purgative on persons not accustomed to drink it. It always retains a slightly smoky flavour, which renders it disagreeable to strangers. The Mahomedan natives indulge in this beverage without scruple: the Moors also drink it, but they always mix with it a little sour milk.
The stalk of the kondoo is as thick as a reed; it is a creeping plant, about eight or ten feet long; the leaves, which are narrow, are six or eight inches long; their edges are indented or serrated. The banks of the Dhioliba are covered with this plant. The Dirimans and some Foulahs who inhabit Tircy came to sell us this liquor, sour milk, fresh butter, dry fish, and mats. About a glassful of milk was sold for five cowries. I suppose that provisions were scarce in this village, for the dealers hawked their goods on the shore, and, in general, would take nothing but millet in payment. It is true, that among the number, there were many pastoral Foulahs who pay no attention to agriculture, and whose only resource consists in their cattle. Never travelling, and not being near any markets, cowries are of no use to them; but millet is always a ready and acceptable food. A bowl full of millet purchases twice the quantity of milk which the same bowl will hold. This is the fixed rate of dealing in the country. Young girls of twelve or fourteen years lined the bank of the river, offering to sell us their merchandise: they were nearly naked, having only a pagne round their loins.
Soon after our arrival at the village of Tircy, we learned that some of the large boats had run aground, and that one of them had been completely swamped. This unforeseen accident occasioned considerable delay in the progress of the flotilla, which was obliged to stop in order to give assistance to the wrecked boat. The crews of the canoes hastened to help them; the greater part of the merchandise was floating about in the river, and, notwithstanding the activity which every individual displayed, only a very small part of the cargo was saved. This was a considerable loss to the owners; for, though the trade is very brisk, the merchants know nothing of the means of protecting themselves from risks by insurances. Notwithstanding this unfortunate occurrence, the Moor, whose neglect had caused it, did not appear in the least concerned.
The 9th and 10th of April were employed in dragging some bags of rice and millet out of the water; the negroes plunged in and one was drowned. All the negroes of the flotilla came to the aid of the wrecked canoe; they generally have an interest in rendering this kind of service, for they receive, by way of reward, a portion of the merchandise they save, except the manufactured stuffs, the value of which they are paid in millet and rice.
I saw at Tircy the two Moors of Adrar whom I had met at Banan; they greeted me cordially, and invited me many times to sup with them. As I knew these people think much of presents, I gave them a part of my dokhnou, a little baked bread, and a sheet of paper; these things they received with gratitude. One of them asked me whether I wanted some cowries to purchase milk with: as I had still from five to six thousand left, I thanked them, but declined their obliging offer.
The women of the Dirimans, like all who live on the banks of the river from Jenné to Timbuctoo, have their hair ornamented with small glass beads; they also wear glass, and sometimes metal rings in their noses. My fellow travellers told me that these people are robbers, and that they often practise great cruelties; this I was ready enough to believe, for, during the two days I staid among them, I observed much quarrelling and fighting. Their dress is the same as that of the people of Jenné; like them, they have woolly black hair. They have handsome countenances, aquiline noses, thin lips, and large eyes; they are armed with two or three pikes and a dagger, which they promptly make use of on the least provocation. After being engaged in a quarrel, they fall devoutly to their prayers, for they are Musulmans, and they often rise from their religious duties merely to begin fresh contentions. They use the bow and arrow against their enemies; but some were armed with muskets, and some with sabres; these weapons had been introduced by Europeans. I saw a man walking on the bank of the river with a calabash full of saltpetre, which he offered for sale: I was desirous of knowing in what way it had been procured; the Moors informed me that saltpetre was manufactured in the country, and that it was used for making gunpowder.
The village of Alcodia, the residence of the chief of the Dirimans, is situated to the east of Tircy, from which it is a day and a half’s journey distant. The crew, having saved all the merchandise they could, prepared to start the next day.
On the 11th of April, at six in the morning, we left the village of Tircy; the course of the river is northward. At seven o’clock we passed Talbocoila; about nine we halted to take in our stock of fire-wood. The wind blew gently from N. E. Two hours after we had re-embarked, we observed that the river, which had hitherto always continued of an equal width, became very narrow and deep; its banks were still low and bare. In many places we saw on the right bank quicksands, of a bright yellow colour; I perceived numerous herds of cattle grazing in the surrounding marshes.
From five o’clock in the evening till seven, when we halted, the river continued its course to the north. We saw a good many hippopotami, who kept at some distance; I could see nothing of them but their heads: the negroes assured me that they often saw them, and that if they passed near the canoes they would shatter them, as it were, with a touch. The river at this part is a little wider, we crossed it to the other side during the night.
I gave the captain of the canoe (who since I had lent him some cowries had become more civil) a bit of coloured cloth, to make him a cap, on condition that he would supply me with proper food, till our arrival at Cabra; thus I was much better fed, than I had previously been, for the captain, who was not very scrupulous, took no notice of the Rhamadan, and, indeed, lived very well for that country.
In the course of the night we were awakened by the roaring of wild beasts.
On the 12th of April, at five in the morning, we stood to the east; the river continued narrow, but deep; its width, however, was still nearly equal to that of the Senegal at Podor; about eight o’clock it made an elbow to the south, and became narrower. This part of the river may be called the dungeon, the name given to a particular part of the Senegal which is extremely narrow. The country on all sides is low and damp, and very bare; at the narrow part of the river, I have just mentioned, there are several marshy islands, some of which are flooded all the year round; we also observed four great arms, two on each side. The river seemed to lose itself in the marshes, the banks being so low that, even at this season, they are well nigh overflowed.
These marshes, extending as far as the eye can reach, are covered with pasturage, and frequented by multitudes of water-fowl of every species; by numerous herds of cattle, sheep, and some horses, breaking, by their various cries, the silence of these desert regions. These herds belong to the pastoral Foulahs, who came to the river’s side to sell us their milk; they wanted to barter it for tobacco, of which we had none to give them; we were, consequently, obliged to go without their milk, for they would not accept cowries in exchange.
When, by the overflowing of the river, all the marshes are covered to the depth of eight or ten feet, this immense plain forms a vast lake; at those periods, the tribes of pastoral Foulahs, who have their huts in the neighbourhood, are obliged to retire into the interior, where the pasture is abundant during the rainy season. Continuing our course till ten o’clock in the morning, we found the river bend to the north; at this part, a very wide arm, branching from the river, extended to the east.
About eleven we passed Salacoila, a village of the wandering Foulahs, situated on the right bank; they build their huts on the quicksands. I went ashore with a negro to purchase a little milk, and saw some of the women, who were pretty well dressed; they would not take our cowries, but wanted millet or rice in exchange. They seemed very gentle in their manners; I visited their little habitations; they are of a circular form, made of a very pretty kind of matting, manufactured in the place; this is laid on poles which are fixed in the ground, and which, being flexible, curve inward at top; seven or eight of these huts were surrounded by quickset hedges of celane, a euphorbious plant which grows spontaneously on the sandy shores of the Senegal; these huts were very neat, being cleanly swept in the inside: they had no other furniture than a few mats spread on the ground, by way of bedding: some calabashes, wooden plates and skins for holding milk, were the only domestic utensils I saw. These Foulahs have the same cast of features and the same resemblance one to another as those in the neighbourhood of the Senegal; they, however, speak another language, though they perfectly understand that which is spoken at Timbuctoo. The only dress of the women was an apron tied round their waists. They were all exceedingly clean, and I do not think their hair was greased. They came in crowds to see me, being very curious, and apparently, very devout, for when I was going away they took up some sand in their hands and earnestly requested me to pray over it.[3] I complied with their wishes, gravely muttering some verses of the Koran. They then carefully rolled up the sand in their aprons, with the intention of preserving it as a precious talisman. The nenuphar (nymphæa cærulea) grows in abundance in the immense marshes which surround Salacoila. The largest species of this plant bears a beautiful blue flower. The inhabitants gather and dry the seed, and it affords them a valuable article of food. They also procure grain from the canoes which come from Jenné.
I observed the river sensibly widening. Its direction still continued northward. About two o’clock we stopped for some canoes that were astern of us. At four we again pushed off, steering to the N. E. The river now widened considerably. About ten we halted for the night. Here we again observed many hippopotami sporting about in the water. The negroes hunt this animal and sell its flesh, which they esteem very highly.
On the morning of the 13th of April, we continued our course to the north. I occasionally observed some alligators proudly rearing their heads to the surface of the water, and apparently threatening any one who might be bold enough to attack them. Scarcely had we proceeded three or four miles when we were obliged to halt to assist a canoe which had sunk. The crews of all the vessels were dispatched for this purpose, and the whole cargo was saved, but not without considerable difficulty. Every one assiduously exerted himself to dry the wet merchandise, and stow it again. During this disorder the whole cargo was lying on the shore exposed to the depredations of the sailors, who would have made no scruple of appropriating any article to themselves, had not guards been stationed here and there to watch them. When the cargo was once more in safety, the men who had rescued it were paid with millet. We then prepared to advance, leaving the owners and crew of the wreck to wait till they could get another canoe from Timbuctoo. Fortunately for them there was no village near, or part of their cargo would in all probability have been carried off.
About noon we took an easterly direction; the river continued wide, its banks low and adorned with a few bushes. Along the shore I observed the traces of elephants, who inhabited the neighbouring woods. I was anxious to see one of these animals, but could not gratify my curiosity. It is strange that, during my long wanderings in the interior of Africa, which, according to the accounts of many travellers, is infested with wild beasts, I never met with one. At sun-set the river took a turn to the north. About nine in the evening we stopped to rest for the night; the heat had been excessive.
At five on the morning of the 14th of April we again started. Half an hour after sun-rise we passed two little islands pretty close to each other; here I observed a large arm of the river running W. S. W. At a little distance northward were two hills, which did not appear very high.
At seven in the morning we found the river turning N. E. and about nine o’clock it began to flow due east, in which direction it continued for four or five miles; then again it turned N. E., and about two in the afternoon we found ourselves before the little village of Diré, a dependency of Timbuctoo. As far as I could judge, I should suppose it contained about 150 or 200 inhabitants. Their houses are built of earth, and have terraced roofs. In an arm of the river which branched off in the neighbourhood of the village, there were six vessels of sixty tons burthen, on their way from Jenné. They had been waiting for us sixteen days. The Soorgoos or Tooariks would not allow them to pass without the payment of a ransom. These robbers daily went on board the canoes to levy contributions of food. The Soorgoos are a wandering tribe who inhabit the banks of the Dhioliba. They contrive to make themselves feared, and live at the expense of the poor negroes, whom they make their tributaries. I shall describe them more fully hereafter. The vessels which had been so long detained, joined us, firing muskets in token of their joy. The negroes of Diré, who are tributaries of the Soorgoos, informed us that the latter were absent, and that consequently we should escape the annoyance of their visits. In company with the canoes which had joined us, we now proceeded about four miles to the north-east, and afterwards turned due east. At sun-set we were overtaken by a violent storm, and we gained the right bank of the river, to which we moored our canoes with pikes made for that purpose. From N. E. to S. W. the sky was overspread with clouds driven by a gale, which continued part of the night. It did not raise the sand, but the heat was very great.
At six o’clock on the morning of the 15th of April, we took an easterly direction, and shortly afterwards I observed the river turning S. E. It was still as wide and deep as before, and its banks were very low. A few dwarf trees were growing in the plains. I was astonished to see so vast a mass of water, notwithstanding the idea I had formed of the magnitude of this river before my departure. The Senegal is but an ordinary river in comparison with this, which, at the season here referred to, was nine or ten feet deep. The current is scarcely perceptible; I should think about a knot and a half an hour. About eight in the morning we passed an island, on which grow some low shrubs. We proceeded but slowly, having to wait for the large canoes, which could not advance so rapidly as we did.
About half past eight in the morning we lay to for half an hour before the island. We saw the little village of Khokhoola, which like Diré, is a dependence of Timbuctoo. Here we met a little canoe which had left that city on the preceding morning. She had on board several of the Soorgoos, who exact a maintenance for themselves as far as Salacoila, where they stop, and then get conveyed home by some returning canoes. If they cannot obtain a conveyance in this way, they travel home by land. At Khokhoola the river takes a little turn to the N. E. and then to the north. The Soorgoos were waiting for us in the village, having been informed of our expected arrival.
They came on board the canoes, being rowed, from the shore, in little boats of their own. They were supplied with rice and water and honey mixed, a beverage of which they are exceedingly fond, and which they call Jenné-hari (water of Jenné.) These vagabonds levy their exactions without moderation. We did not allow them to come on board our canoe; we handed them out a bag of rice and they went away to importune some of our companions. When they are on board the canoes, and the negroes want to get rid of them, they fire a musket close to their ears, and they speedily take their departure, for they are very much afraid of gunpowder. They themselves never make use of fire-arms.
During the visit of the Soorgoos I was directed to go below, to avoid being seen by them; for, when they see a Moor on board, especially if his colour be lighter than usual, they assert that he is richer than the rest, as if his fortune depended on his complexion. They then become extremely troublesome, and will not suffer the canoes to depart without exacting a contribution from the white man, whom they call almankoye (the rich man.).
I was afterwards informed that these savages had detained on shore a Moor, whose complexion was, unluckily, not very dark, and who was imprudent enough not to conceal himself. They extorted merciless contributions from him. The Moors, aware of this danger, are accustomed to conceal themselves in the canoes, and only quit their hiding-place during the night.
The negroes only have the privilege of remaining on deck; they are looked upon as an inferior class, who have not much to give, and are merely the servants of the Moorish merchant.
Wishing to see without being seen, I made several holes in the matting that covered that part of the canoe in which I was concealed. In this place the heat was so excessive, that it gave me a violent head-ache. The Moorish merchants of Timbuctoo have no authority over these robbers: not one of them would have ventured among the Soorgoos to claim the six canoes which were so long detained. If they had, they would have been sure of being laid under contribution themselves; yet, they frequently make presents to the Soorgoos.
Each flotilla that navigates the river has a chief called the amiroo, and it is he who determines the periods for halting and starting; he is always the oldest man among the crews; it is his business to settle the amount of the contributions with the Soorgoos: though he has some influence over them, yet he can do nothing in behalf of the Moors, and if the Soorgoos see one on board his canoe, they become refractory, and often proceed to the utmost extremities to obtain what they want. “If you were not worth a single cowrie,” said the negroes of our canoe to me, “they would declare that you were very rich, and you would be obliged to give them something before they would allow us to proceed.”
The river, after flowing three or four miles to the north, turns to the east, and then to the N. E.; its width still continuing the same, and its banks being uniformly low and barren.
At eight in the evening we stopped before the little village of Cora, which, perhaps, contains two hundred inhabitants. Here we had another visit from the Soorgoos. They immediately went on board the canoe of the chief of the flotilla, to demand the contributions. Each canoe was ordered to put ashore a bag of millet for their supper, and the order was obeyed without hesitation. I was informed that the chief had engaged to pay at Cabra the exactions for allowing us to pass; which exactions consisted of millet, rice, honey, butter, manufactured stuffs, and preserved articles.
During the whole of the evening lightning flashed from the east. The heat was oppressive, and we had no rain.
On the 16th of April, we were detained at Cora until ten in the morning; the negro inhabitants of this village came to sell us milk, for which we gave them millet in exchange; they often want provisions, though they cultivate a great deal of rice; but they are continually robbed and harassed by the Soorgoos, who make these poor creatures supply them with food. At ten in the morning we stood to the N. E. There were some Soorgoos on board the canoes, and others were following us on horseback along the seashore. About one in the afternoon we lay to near some trees and shrubs, and collected a little fire-wood. At two we continued our course. At the point we reached at sun-set the river turned to the north, and was very wide and deep. The sailors now used their oars instead of their poles. At eight in the evening we halted before a camp of the Soorgoo. The discussions which arose with these people occasioned considerable delay, and were a source of great annoyance, especially to me, who was shut up in my hiding-place, suffocated with heat, and only able to observe what was going on through the holes which I had made in the mats of my prison. We were continually harassed by troops of these banditti: some were in small canoes, others mounted on fine horses, gallopping along the shore, and by the most horrid yells instigating their companions in the canoes to board us. This tumult was insufferable. We did not entirely get rid of our tormentors until our arrival at Cabra. Every evening our canoes were obliged to give them rice and millet for their supper, in return for which they presented the chief of the flotilla with a little bull, which was killed and distributed among the masters of the different canoes. The reports of the muskets which the negroes fired before the camp, frightened the horses of those Soorgoos who had ridden from the interior for the purpose of sharing the spoil.
On the 17th of April, at six in the morning, the flotilla stood to the north. We had not proceeded above four or five miles, when we were obliged to stop and wait for one of the great canoes which had sprung a leak, and was in momentary danger of sinking; the sailors on board set about repairing it; they plunged into the water with great agility and put oakum into the seams along the keel. About three in the afternoon all was put to rights, and we again pursued our course. The river was very wide and deep, and its banks were naked and marshy; it took a little turn to the east, and afterwards to the north: in every direction nothing was visible but marshes, without trees of any kind. At sun-set the new moon was saluted by several discharges of musketry, which so terrified the Soorgoos, that they hastened ashore, and I heard some of them exclaim in their little canoes, “God preserve us from gunpowder!” The only arms used by these people, are lances and poniards. About seven o’clock we passed Caratoo, a little village on the right bank, and about nine, we stopped at an uninhabited place.
At five in the morning, of the 18th of April, we continued our voyage. The river turned eastward, and at seven o’clock we found its course changing to N. E.; it then became rather narrow, the banks being all along very low and bare. The immense marshes on both banks were covered with cattle belonging to the Soorgoos. These herds as I have already observed, are their chief property.
At eight in the morning we stopped to say the prayer of the salam, it being the last day of the Ramadan, which the Mandingoes call Sali. We were within sight of Cabra, and the negroes testified their joy on perceiving the date trees of the village. They put on their finest dress, assembled in a large plain, and piously prostrated themselves in adoration of their God. I remained in the canoe, and observed them through the holes that I had made in the matting of my prison, where the heat was suffocating. I congratulated myself that I was not required to join in these religious ceremonies, and secretly offered up a prayer that my enterprise might be favoured by Heaven. Their devotions being ended, the negroes went to dinner, and good cheer compensated for their past abstinence, which, however, had not been very rigorously observed. An easterly wind obliged us to pass some part of the day at this spot.
About four in the afternoon it became somewhat calm, and preparations were made for pursuing our voyage; but the Soorgoos opposed our departure until they had received four sacks of millet from each boat, independently of the duties we should be obliged to pay them on arriving at Cabra. This exaction on their part led to a long discussion: all the masters of canoes gathered round the chief of the flotilla, attended by the chiefs of the Soorgoos, and each party defended their own interests and those of their employers with considerable warmth. The Soorgoos were not inclined to abate their demands; but, by dint of entreaty and resistance, the contributions were reduced to one-half the amount which had been at first demanded.
About nine in the evening the canoes received orders to send on shore two sacks of millet; which was done without delay. These sacks were of the height of a man, and as wide as the sacks commonly used in France. I suppose they might contain nearly two hundred pounds of grain. Never did any day appear to me so long and tedious as this. I was almost within sight of Timbuctoo, and durst not shew my face: I was obliged to hide myself the whole day; and, if at any time the Soorgoos came on board, the crew obliged me to muffle myself up in a large woollen wrapper, and to pretend to sleep. At night I left my prison, for then the Soorgoos could not distinguish my complexion from that of the negroes, and I breathed the pure air until day-break.
On the 19th of April, at five in the morning, we stood to N. E., and at sun-rise passed a large branch of the river, which flows for a short space to W. S .W. About seven o’clock we found ourselves near a camp of Tooariks, the aspect of which was most miserable. The tents which the Moors inhabit on the right bank of the Senegal are palaces in comparison with the dwellings of these savages: a few stakes, three or four feet high, supporting a covering of untanned bulls’ hides, and encircled by mats, in the form of a palisade, compose the abode of the chief, as well as of his meanest sujects. The interior of these habitations appeared to correspond perfectly with their exterior.
As we were very near the shore, I could observe a woman who had the clear copper complexion of the Moorish females, whom she still further resembled in dress: she was enormously fat, and was sitting on a sheep-skin spread on the ground; she was doubtless amusing herself by looking at the vessels as they passed. During my travels among the Braknas I never saw a woman who had attained such a degree of corpulency, though that quality constitutes the principal charm of female beauty among these people. This Tooarik Venus must have required four slaves at least to assist her in walking. The river now turned a little to the east. After having passed the camp, we came to a large island, off which we halted till eight o’clock, having to wait for some boats, which could not proceed as fast as ours. This island is very flat and sandy, but I observed some specimens of the mimosa, balanitis ægyptiaca, and other stunted shrubs.
About nine o’clock we again put off, and at ten arrived at a place where the river separates into two branches: the principal of these might be three-quarters of a mile broad, running gently E. S. E.; the direction of the other is E. by N.; it is deep, and its breadth is from thirty-five to forty paces.
About one o’clock P. M. we arrived at the port of Cabra, and I was informed that I might quit my prison, the Soorgoos having remained behind; I speedily went on deck, whence I could see nothing around me but flooded morasses covered with aquatic birds. This arm of the river is very narrow, and the current stronger than in the large arm. I think it not unlikely that at a little distance it joins the Dhioliba, for in this place the branch inclines to the east. If this is the case, the river forms a large marshy island, which must be flooded during the inundations.
Across these immense marshes is discovered the village or little town of Cabra, situated on a small hill, which protects it from inundation. I was told that in the rainy season these marshes are covered with water to the depth of ten feet, which appeared to me a surprising depth for so vast a space, and that at those periods large vessels cast anchor before Cabra. A little canal leads to this village; but small boats only can enter the port. If the canal were cleared of the grass and nenuphars which choke the passage, vessels of twenty-five tons burthen might go up it in all seasons; but such a task would be too toilsome for the negroes.
I embarked on board a small canoe, in company with the Moors from Adrar, to proceed to Cabra. The negro slaves hauled the canoe along by a rope, as the pole would not have been sufficient to move it. We met several small canoes which had been dispatched for the purpose of conveying to the town the most valuable commodities brought by the vessels from Jenné. About three in the afternoon we reached Cabra, which is situated three miles to the north of the great port. On entering it I observed a number of straw huts like those of the Foulahs, which were inhabited by trading slaves. Near their huts was a great quantity of the fruit of the nenuphar, which constitutes part of the food of the slaves and poorer classes.
I observed in the streets a great concourse of people and merchants; some walking idly about, others endeavouring to dispose of their goods, consisting of fish, milk, colat-nuts, pistachios, &c. The town of Cabra is narrow, and extends east and west; the houses are built of earth with terraced roofs, and have only a ground-floor; few of them are well built, being chiefly cabins, for the richer class of people prefer living at Timbuctoo, the centre of commerce. The inhabitants of Cabra, about a thousand or twelve hundred in number, are all employed, either in landing the various merchandise brought from Jenné, or in conveying it to Timbuctoo. For this purpose they make use of asses and camels. The slaves do not carry loads on their heads; this would be a bad speculation for their masters, for the poor creatures would soon be worn out, as the road leading to the town consists of quicksand which renders walking very difficult.
At Cabra a market is daily held for the sale of all sorts of merchandise from Soudan. The town contains a little mosque, surrounded by a tower or minaret. To the west of the town there are some specimens of the balanitis ægyptiaca, and small gardens of tobacco; this latter plant, however, does not thrive, and seldom grows higher than six or seven inches. On the east side there are some date-trees, which are visible from a distance.
The almost constant inundation of the marshes, in the neighbourhood of Cabra prevents the inhabitants from cultivating rice; and the sandy soil on the north is unfit for growing millet. The Moors from Adrar, in whose boat I had come from the great port, having unloaded the canoe, placed their goods in a store-house, until they should be ready to convey them to the city. The inhabitants of Cabra let their magazines to merchants, who wish to deposit their goods in the town; and they also let out asses for carrying loads to Timbuctoo.
I went out to take a view of the interior of the village. The streets are narrow, but neat. I saw several female traders, and from one of them I bought a little milk and a loaf of wheaten flour, which cost me twenty cowries. I made a hearty breakfast, for I had not tasted any thing all day. I had not cause to think much of the honesty of the woman from whom I made the purchase, for she wanted to make me pay twice. I was foolish enough to pay her beforehand; it is the custom in this country to lay the value of what is bought on the basket in which the goods lie, and the money is not removed until the article is in the hands of the purchaser. This precaution does not say much for the honesty of either buyers or sellers.
I saw in the port a number of large canoes undergoing repair. The owners are accustomed, as soon as the boats are unladen, to draw them on shore, where they are supported on large round blocks of wood, which keep them a little elevated from the ground. Were it not for this prudent practice, the cords with which the planks are fastened together would very quickly rot. The little port of Cabra extends east and west for the space of half a mile, being about sixty paces broad. It would be a very useful place, were it kept in better order; but it is very dirty and full of mud. Numbers of men and women are always ready in the port to load and unload the vessels. This was the day for celebrating the conclusion of the Ramadan. The inhabitants were dancing and indulging in their simple demonstrations of joy. They were all decently clothed. I asked a female slave, who was sitting before her hut, for some water to drink. She immediately rose, and, washing a wooden bowl, brought me some water in it, which she presented to me with great civility.
The Soorgoos, or Tooariks, receive at Cabra the duties which they levy on vessels. They roam about the village, and behave in the most arbitrary way, making the inhabitants give them provisions and other property—in fact, seizing whatever they can lay their hands on. The inhabitants of Cabra took no notice of me. The Moors of Adrar invited me to partake of their supper of rice, which I found very palatable; and I passed the night in the open air, sleeping on a mat beside my companions. I was a little tormented by the mosquitoes, which, however, are not so common on the banks of the Dhioliba as on those of the Senegal.
On the 25th of April, the merchants of Timbuctoo came to Cabra, to land their goods. They were mounted on excellent horses. Sidi-Abdallahi Chebir, to whom I had been directed by the sherif of Jenné, did not come; but he sent his slaves. They were all well clothed, and armed with a common kind of muskets, made at Tunis. Sidi-Mbark, the owner of the canoe which had conveyed me to Cabra, had arrived at Timbuctoo several days before us, and had mentioned me to Sidi-Abdallah Chebir. He, consulting only the duty imposed on him by his religion (for he had not yet received the letter of his correspondent in my behalf) ordered his slaves to congratulate me on my happy arrival, and to invite me to visit him. This message led me to augur a good reception from him.
CHAPTER XXI.
Journey from Cabra to Timbuctoo — First view of the city — The Kissoors — The king grants the traveller an audience — Condition of the slaves — Description of the city, its buildings, extent, and commerce — Food and dress of the people — Bousbéhey, a city of the Zawats — Toudeyni — Tribe of Salah — Terror inspired by the Tooariks — Description of that tribe — The Ginbulas — Particulars respecting the fate of Major Laing — Reflexions on the means of penetrating to the centre of Africa.
On the 20th of April, at half past three, I set out for Timbuctoo, escorted by Sidi-Abdallah Chebir’s slaves. Our road lay northward. The slaves who had been on board our canoe also accompanied us, so that we formed a numerous caravan. The youngest slaves were mounted upon asses, as the road is very sandy and wearisome. Near Cabra we passed two lakes, the banks of which were overgrown with mimosas from five to six feet high. A little further the eye was refreshed by some signs of vegetation. The country presented the same scenery until we had proceeded half way on our journey, and then it began to be more naked, and the sand becoming exceedingly loose, rendered travelling very difficult. On the road we were followed by a Tooarik, mounted on a superb horse. This marauder, who appeared to be about fifty years of age, shewed a disposition to appropriate to himself a young negro slave. Sidi-Abdallah Chebir’s men represented to him that the slave belonged to their master, and that if, on arriving at the city, he would pay him a visit, he would doubtless receive a present. This appeared to satisfy him, and he ceased to molest us. He eyed me narrowly, and several times inquired who I was, and whence I came. They told him I was poor, and he relinquished the hope of getting any thing from me.
At length, we arrived safely at Timbuctoo, just as the sun was touching the horizon. I now saw this capital of the Soudan, to reach which had so long been the object of my wishes. On entering this mysterious city, which is an object of curiosity and research to the civilised nations of Europe, I experienced an indescribable satisfaction. I never before felt a similar emotion and my transport was extreme. I was obliged, however to restrain my feelings, and to God alone did I confide my joy. With what gratitude did I return thanks to Heaven, for the happy result which attended my enterprise! How many grateful thanksgivings did I pour forth for the protection which God had vouchsafed to me, amidst obstacles and dangers which appeared insurmountable. This duty being ended, I looked around and found that the sight before me, did not answer my expectations. I had formed a totally different idea of the grandeur and wealth of Timbuctoo. The city presented, at first view, nothing but a mass of ill-looking houses, built of earth. Nothing was to be seen in all directions but immense plains of quicksand of a yellowish white colour. The sky was a pale red as far as the horizon: all nature wore a dreary aspect, and the most profound silence prevailed; not even the warbling of a bird was to be heard. Still, though I cannot account for the impression, there was something imposing in the aspect of a great city, raised in the midst of sands, and the difficulties surmounted by its founders cannot fail to excite admiration. I am inclined to think, that formerly the river flowed close to Timbuctoo; though at present it is eight miles to the north of that city, and five miles from Cabra, in the same direction.
I took up my abode with Sidi-Abdallahi, who received me in the most friendly manner. He had already been indirectly acquainted with the alleged circumstances, which, as I pretended, had occasioned my journey across the Soudan. He invited me to sup with him; and an excellent couscous of millet and mutton was served up. Six of us partook of the dish, and we ate with our fingers; but in as cleanly a way as was possible under such circumstances. Sidi-Abdallahi, according to the custom of his countrymen, did not say a word to me. He was a mild, quiet, reserved man. His age might be about forty or forty-five. He was five feet high, stout and pitted with the small-pox. His countenance was pleasing, his manners grave, and rather dignified. He had no fault but his religious fanaticism.
After bidding my host good night, I went to repose upon a mat which was spread upon the ground in my new lodging. At Timbuctoo the nights are as hot as the days, and I could get no rest in the chamber which had been prepared for me. I removed to the court adjoining the house, but still found it impossible to sleep. The heat was oppressive; not a breath of air freshened the atmosphere. In the whole course of my travels I never found myself more uncomfortable.
On the morning of the 21st of April, I went to pay my respects to my host, who received me with affability; afterwards I took a turn round the city. I found it neither so large nor so populous as I had expected. Its commerce is not so considerable as fame has reported. There was not as at Jenné, a concourse of strangers from all parts of the Soudan. I saw in the streets of Timbuctoo only the camels, which had arrived from Cabra laden with the merchandise of the flotilla, a few groups of the inhabitants sitting on mats, conversing together, and Moors lying asleep in the shade before their doors. In a word, every thing had a dull appearance.
I was surprised at the inactivity, I may even say, indolence, displayed in the city. Some colat-nut venders were crying their goods in the streets, as at Jenné.
About four in the afternoon, when the heat had diminished, I saw several negro traders, all well clothed and mounted on good horses richly harnessed, go out to ride. Prudence forbids them to venture far from the city, for fear of the Tooariks, who would make them pay dearly for their excursions.
In consequence of the oppressive heat the market is not held until three in the afternoon. There were few strangers to be seen except the Moors of the neighbouring tribe of Zawât, who often come hither; but in comparison with Jenné, the market is a desert.
At Timbuctoo, it is very unusual to see any other merchandise except what is brought by the vessels and a few articles from Europe, such as glass wares, amber, coral, sulphur, paper, &c.
I saw three shops kept in small rooms, well stored with stuffs of European manufacture. The merchants put out at their doors cakes of salt for sale, but they never exhibit them in the market. Such as do business at the market have stalls made of stakes covered with mats, to protect them against the heat of the sun. My host Sidi-Abdallahi was obliging enough to shew me over one of his magazines in which he stowed his European merchandise. I observed there many double-barrel guns, with the mark of Saint-Etienne, and other manufactories. In general French muskets are much prized, and sell at a higher rate than those of other nations. I also saw some beautiful elephants’ teeth. My host told me that he procured some from Jenné, but the larger ones had been bought at Timbuctoo; they are brought hither by the Tooariks or Soorgoos, the Kissoors, and the Dirimans, who inhabit the banks of the river. They do not hunt the elephant with fire-arms, but catch it in snares. I regret having never seen one of these animals caught.
On the 22nd of April, Sidi-Mbark, to whom I had made a present of a piece of cloth with the view of gaining his friendship, told me he should have a caravan ready in two days to go to Tafilet, and that I must hold myself prepared to accompany him to the great desert. This information vexed me, for I was not disposed to quit Timbuctoo so soon. I did not, however, lose all hope of prolonging my stay in that city.
In the evening I mentioned Mbark’s proposition to my host, adding that I was greatly fatigued by the long journey I had performed on foot, and that I wished to rest at Timbuctoo for about a fortnight, after which I would avail myself of the first caravan that might depart. I had scarcely expressed this wish, when he interrupted me, saying in the kindest manner: “You may remain here longer than a fortnight, if you please. You will gratify me by so doing; you shall want for nothing.” I gratefully thanked him for his generous hospitality. Shortly after I had another instance of his kindness, for which I was very grateful. He had at first given me a chamber to myself; but the Mandingo negro by whom I had been so ill treated on board the canoe, on his arrival in Timbuctoo, quartered himself and his female slave in my apartment. I bore this patiently for some days; but the presence of the intruders prevented me from taking my notes which I could only do in secret. I mentioned to Sidi-Abdallahi that I should prefer being alone; and, after reprimanding the negro, he lodged me in another house belonging to him, which was near the marketplace and opposite to that which had been occupied by Major Laing, the street only intervening between them.
Often, when seated before my door, I thought of the fate of that unfortunate traveller, who, after surmounting numberless dangers and privations, was cruelly assassinated when on the eve of returning to his country. In the course of these reflections I could not repress a feeling of apprehension, lest, should I be discovered, I might be doomed to a fate more horrible than death—to slavery! But I determined to act with caution, and not to afford any ground for suspicion.
I found myself much more comfortable in my new lodging. Sidi-Abdallahi my host had directed a mat to be spread in my chamber, of which he gave me the key. The slaves who lived in the house were ordered to wait on me, and they brought me twice a day couscous and rice seasoned with beef or mutton.
The city of Timbuctoo is principally inhabited by negroes of the Kissoor nation. Many Moors also reside there. They are engaged in trade, and, like Europeans, who repair to the colonies in the hope of making their fortunes, they usually return to their own country to enjoy the fruits of their industry. They have considerable influence over the native inhabitants of Timbuctoo, whose king or governor is a negro. This prince, who is named Osman, is much respected by his subjects. He is very simple in his manners: his dress is like that of the Moors of Morocco; and his house is no better furnished than those of the Moorish merchants. He is himself a merchant, and his sons trade with Jenné. He inherited a considerable fortune from his ancestors, and is very rich. He has four wives, besides an infinite number of slaves, and is a zealous Mahometan.
The sovereignty is hereditary, descending to the eldest son. The king does not levy any tribute on his subjects or on foreign merchants, but he receives presents. There is no regular government. The king is like a father ruling his children. He is mild and just, and has nothing to fear from his subjects. The whole community, indeed, exhibits the amiable and simple manners of the patriarchs. In case of war, all are ready to serve; but the mild and inoffensive manners of these people afford little ground for quarrels, and when they arise the natives of Timbuctoo repair to their chief, who assembles a council of the elders, all of whom are blacks. Though the Moors are not permitted to take part in these councils, yet my host Sidi-Abdallahi, the friend of Osman, was sometimes allowed to be present at them. The Moors acknowledge a superior among themselves; but they are, nevertheless, amenable to the authorities of the country. I requested my host to present me to the king, which, with his usual good-nature he consented to do.
The prince received me in the midst of his court. He was seated on a beautiful mat with a rich cushion. We seated ourselves for a few moments at a little distance from him. Sidi-Abdallahi, after briefly relating my adventures, told him that I wished to pay my respects to him. I could not understand their conversation, for they spoke in the language of the Kissoors. The king afterwards addressed me in Arabic, asking some questions about the christians, and the manner in which they had treated me. After a short time we took our leave: I wished to have seen the interior of the house, but my curiosity could not be gratified. The king appeared to be of an exceedingly amiable disposition; his age might be about fifty-five, and his hair was white and curly. He was of the middling height, and his colour was jet black. He had an aquiline nose, thin lips, a grey beard, and large eyes, and his whole countenance was pleasing; his dress, like those of the Moors, was composed of stuff of European manufacture. On his head was a red cap, bound round with a large piece of muslin in the form of a turban. His shoes were of morocco, shaped like our morning slippers, and made in the country. He often visited the mosque.
There are, as I have already mentioned, many Moors in Timbuctoo, and they occupy the finest houses in the city. They very soon become rich in trade, and they receive consignments of merchandise from Adrar, Tafilet, Tawât, Ardamas, Tripoli, Tunis, and Algiers. They receive from Europe tobacco and other articles, which they send by canoes to Jenné and elsewhere. Timbuctoo may be regarded as the principal entrepôt of this part of Africa. All the salt obtained from the mines of Toudeyni, is brought hither on camels. The Moors of Morocco and other countries who travel to the Soudan, remain six or eight months at Timbuctoo to sell their goods, and get their camels re-laden.
The cakes of salt are tied together with cords, made of a sort of grass which grows in the neighbourhood of Tandaye. This grass is dry when gathered; but it is afterwards moistened, and then buried under ground to keep it from the sun and the east wind, which would dry it too rapidly. When sufficiently impregnated with moisture, it is taken out of the earth and platted into cord, which the Moors use for various purposes. The camels frequently throw their loads off their backs, and when the cakes of salt arrive in the town they are frequently broken. This would spoil their sale, if the merchants did not take the precaution of making the slaves join them together again. When the pieces are fastened together, the cakes are packed up again with a stronger kind of cord made of bull’s hide. The cakes are ornamented with little designs, such as stripes, lozenges, &c., traced in black. The slaves are very fond of executing these ornaments, an employment which enables them to collect a little supply of salt for their own use. In general, the slaves are better treated at Timbuctoo than in other countries. They are well clothed and fed, and seldom beaten. They are required to observe religious duties, which they do very punctually; but they are nevertheless regarded as merchandise, and are exported to Tripoli, Morocco, and other parts of the coast, where they are not so happy as at Timbuctoo. They always leave that place with regret, though they are ignorant of the fate that awaits them elsewhere.
At the time of my departure, I saw several slaves affectionately bidding each other adieu. The conformity of their melancholy condition excites among them a feeling of sympathy and mutual interest. At parting, they recommended good behaviour to each other; but the Moors frequently hurry their departure, and interrupt these affecting scenes, which are so well calculated to excite commiseration for their fate.
When I was at the mosque, a middle-aged Moor stepped up to me gravely, and without saying a word slipped a handful of cowries into the pocket of my coussabe. He withdrew immediately, without affording me time to thank him. I was much surprised at this delicate way of giving alms.
The city of Timbuctoo forms a sort of triangle, measuring about three miles in circuit. The houses are large, but not high, consisting entirely of a ground-floor. In some, a sort of little closet is constructed above the entrance. They are built of bricks of a round form, rolled in the hands, and baked in the sun. The walls, except as far as regards their height, resemble those of Jenné.
The streets of Timbuctoo are clean, and sufficiently wide to permit three horsemen to pass abreast. Both within and without the town there are many straw huts of a circular form, like those of the pastoral Foulahs. They serve as dwellings for the poor, and for the slaves who sell merchandise for their masters.
Timbuctoo contains seven mosques, two of which are large; each is surmounted by a brick tower.
This mysterious city, which has been an object of curiosity for so many ages, and of whose population, civilization, and trade with the Soudan, such exaggerated notions have prevailed, is situated in an immense plain of white sand, having no vegetation but stunted trees and shrubs, such as the mimosa ferruginea, which grows no higher than three or four feet. The city is not closed by any barrier, and may be entered on any side. Within the town are seen some of the balanitis ægyptiaca, and in the centre is a palm tree.
Timbuctoo may contain at most about ten or twelve thousand inhabitants; all are engaged in trade. The population is at times augmented by the Arabs, who come with the caravans, and remain awhile in the city. In the plain several species of grass and thistles afford food for the camels. Fire-wood is very scarce, being all brought from the neighbourhood of Cabra. It is an article of trade, and the women sell it in the market-place. It is only burnt by the rich; the poor use camel-dung for fuel. Water is also sold in the market-place; the women give a measure containing about half a pint for a cowrie.
Timbuctoo, though one of the largest cities I have seen in Africa, possesses no other resources but its trade in salt, the soil being totally unfit for cultivation. The inhabitants procure from Jenné every thing requisite for the supply of their wants, such as millet, rice, vegetable butter, honey, cotton, Soudan cloth, preserved provisions, candles, soap, allspice, onions, dried fish, pistachios, &c.
If the vessels from Cabra should chance to be stopped by the Tooariks, the inhabitants of Timbuctoo would be reduced to famine. To obviate this misfortune, they take care to have their warehouses always amply stored with every kind of provision. I saw the magazines of Sidi-Abdallahi full of great sacks of rice, which keeps better than millet.
For these reasons, the vessels which come down the river to Cabra are deterred from making any resistance to the Tooariks, notwithstanding the burthen of their exactions. I was assured that, if the crews dared but to strike one of these savages, they would forthwith declare war against Timbuctoo, and intercept all communication with the port; the city could then receive no supplies.
To the W. S. W. of the town there are large excavations, from thirty-five to forty feet deep: these are reservoirs, which are supplied by the rains. Hither the slaves resort to procure water for drink and cooking. This water is tolerably clear, but it has a disagreeable taste and is very hot.
These reservoirs had no covering whatever; the water is consequently exposed to the influence of the sun and the hot wind. The excavations are dug in loose sand. I descended into the largest of them by a gentle declivity: the bottom was not quite covered with water. I remarked some veins of hard red sand; with this exception the soil was grey sand, of a coarsish grain.
Near the reservoirs are some small plantations of tobacco. This plant grows here no higher than five or six inches, and that only by dint of watering. It is the only cultivated vegetable that I observed in this country. Some negroes were engaged in gathering it; and I remarked that it had already run to seed. They dry the leaves and pound them in a mortar, and then take the powder without any further preparation. It is merely a green powder, and has not even the smell of tobacco. They bring it to market; but the richer class of people prefer that which comes from Morocco, which is of a far better quality.
The inhabitants of Timbuctoo do not smoke, but the wandering Moors who dwell in the neighbourhood of the city use pipes.
The slaves draw the water from the reservoirs in calabashes, with which they fill leathern bags, which are carried by asses. Before they proceed to work, they always amuse themselves with a short dance; for, in spite of their hard lot, they are constantly full of gaiety. On their return home, they pour the water into jars, where it cools and loses somewhat of its disagreeable taste. I saw some female slaves washing in large calabashes beside the reservoirs.
Two days’ journey N. E. of Timbuctoo stands the town of Bousbéhey, built of bricks, made of a sandy clay. It belongs to the tribe of Zawât, who wander in the desert of that name. The inhabitants of Bousbéhey trade in salt, which they procure in the small village of Toudeyni. They possess many camels, which constitute their principal property: they drink their milk, of which they also make butter. They possess a few sheep and some horned cattle.
The merchants of Timbuctoo purchase cattle from these people, and give in exchange millet and rice; for the soil of Bousbéhey is totally barren, and scarcely furnishes fodder for the camels. The Timbuctoo merchants likewise procure salt at Toudeyni, for which they barter millet, rice, cloth, and gold.
Bousbéhey and Toudeyni, being only supplied with the grain which the merchants of Timbuctoo receive from Jenné, would of course be reduced to famine if the trade between the two latter cities should be interrupted.
The country of Salah, which is inhabited by a wandering tribe like that of Zawât, is situated on the east, and is ten days’ journey from Timbuctoo, whither the people of Salah often come for the purpose of trade. They possess numerous herds of camels, the milk of which, together with the grain they procure from Timbuctoo, forms their subsistence. Sidi-Abdallahi informed me, that there was no traffic or communication by water between Timbuctoo and the country of Haoussa; because, said he, the navigation of the river ceases at Cabra.
The negroes and Moors devote their attention exclusively to trade: they possess but limited ideas of geography. All to whom I applied for information respecting the course of the river to the east and E. S. E. of Timbuctoo agreed in stating, that it runs to Haoussa, and empties itself into the Nile.[4] I was unable to obtain any more accurate information on this point, and the great problem of the issue of the Dhioliba into the ocean will thus be left to the demonstration of some more fortunate traveller; but, if I may be permitted to hazard an opinion as to the course of the river, I should say, that it probably empties itself by several mouths into the Gulf of Benin.
The Moors of Tripoli, as well as those of Ardamas, trade with Haoussa, whither they carry European merchandise, and in exchange bring back gold, which they procure in the rich country of Wangara; they afterwards go to Timbuctoo with packages of the fine cloth of Wangara, which is woven in narrow breadths, dyed a beautiful blue, and well glazed with gum. Sidi-Abdallahi shewed me a beautiful piece; it resembled the cloth manufactured by the negroes more to the north. At Galam, in 1819, I saw a similar kind of cloth which was brought from Sego, and was made by the Bambaras. It was as well glazed as that which I saw at Timbuctoo. In general, the negroes of the Senegal set a high value on this article.
As the country of Timbuctoo is entirely destitute of pasture, (for even the camels can scarcely find food) the people obtain a considerable quantity of fodder from Cabra, which the inhabitants of that town grow in the marshes, and which they dry for the purpose of selling to those who keep horses, cattle, sheep, and goats. This forage is stowed on the roofs of the houses. Timbuctoo and its environs present the most monotonous and barren scene I ever beheld. I once indeed saw a herd of camels near the town feeding here and there upon thistles which had been dried up by the scorching east wind, and on branches of the mimosa ferruginea, the long thorns of which did not prevent these animals from devouring them. I was told that these camels belonged to the Moors who journey across the great desert.
All the native inhabitants of Timbuctoo are zealous Mahometans; their dress is similar to that of the Moors. Like the Arabs, they are allowed to have four wives each. The women attend to domestic occupations, and they are not like the Mandingo females, subject to the punishment of beating. The people of Timbuctoo, who are in constant communication with the half-civilized inhabitants of the Mediterranean, have some idea of the dignity of human nature. I have constantly observed in my travels, that in proportion as a people was uncivilized the women were always more enslaved. The female sex in Africa have reason to pray for the progress of cultivation. The women of Timbuctoo are not veiled like those of Morocco: they are allowed to go out when they please, and are at liberty to see any one. The people are gentle and complaisant to strangers. In trade they are industrious and intelligent; and the traders are generally wealthy and have many slaves. The men are of the ordinary size, well made, upright, and walk with a firm step. Their colour is a fine deep black. Their noses are a little more aquiline than those of the Mandigoes, and like them they have thin lips and large eyes. I saw some women who might be considered pretty. They are all well fed: their meals, of which they take two a day, consist of rice, and couscous made of small millet, dressed with meat or dried fish. Those negroes who are in easy circumstances, like the Moors, breakfast on wheaten bread, tea, and butter made from cow’s milk. Those of inferior condition use vegetable butter. Generally speaking, the negroes are not so well lodged as the Moors. The latter have great influence over them, and indeed, consider themselves far their superiors.
WOMAN OF THE CITY OF TIMBUCTOO.
The inhabitants of Timbuctoo are exceedingly neat in their dress and in the interior of their dwellings. Their domestic articles consist of calabashes and wooden platters. They are unacquainted with the use of knives and forks, and they believe that, like them, all people in the world eat with their fingers. Their furniture merely consists of mats for sitting on; and their beds are made by fixing four stakes in the ground at one end of the room, and stretching over them some mats or a cow-hide. The rich have cotton mattresses, and coverlets, which the neighbouring Moors manufacture from camel’s hair and sheep’s wool. I saw a woman of Cabra employed in spinning these coverlets.
The natives of Timbuctoo, as I before observed, have several wives, and to these many add their slaves. The Moors, indeed, cohabit only with their slaves, and these females are employed in vending merchandise in the streets, such as colats, allspice, &c. Some also have a little stall in the market-place, while the favourite stays at home, superintending those whose business it is to cook for the household: the favourite herself prepares the husband’s meals. These women are very neatly dressed: their costume consists of a coussabe, like that worn by the men, except that it has not large sleeves. Their shoes are of morocco. The fashion of the head-dress sometimes varies; it principally consists of a fatara of fine muslin, or some other cotton stuff of European manufacture. Their hair is beautifully platted. The principal tress, which is about an inch thick, comes from the back to the front of the head, and is terminated by a piece of cornelian of a round form and concave in the centre; they put a little cushion under the tress to support it, and add to that ornament several other trinkets, made of imitation of amber or coral, and bits of cornelian cut like that just mentioned. They also anoint the head and the whole body with butter, but less profusely than the Bambaras and the Mandingoes. The great heat, which is augmented by the scorching east wind, renders this custom necessary. The women of the richer class have always a great number of glass beads about their necks and in their ears. Like the women of Jenné, they wear nose-rings; and the female who is not rich enough to procure a ring, substitutes a bit of red silk for it; they wear silver bracelets, and ancle-rings of plated steel, the latter of which are made in the country; instead of being round, like the bracelets, are flat, and about four inches broad. Some pretty designs are engraved on them.
The female slaves of rich masters have gold ornaments about their necks; instead of wearing ear-rings as in the environs of the Senegal, they have little plates in the form of a necklace. A few days after my arrival at Timbuctoo I fell in with a negro, who was parading about the streets two women, whom I recollected to have been fellow-passengers with me on board the canoe. These women were not young, but their master, to give them the appearance of an age better suited to the market, had dressed them well. They wore fine white pagnes, large gold ear-rings, and each had two or three necklaces of the same metal. When I passed them, they looked at me, and smiled. They did not appear in the least mortified at being exhibited in the streets for sale, but manifested an indifference which I could easily enough account for, by the state of degradation to which they had been reduced and their total ignorance of the natural rights of mankind. They thought that tilings should be so, and that they had come into this world to be bought and sold.
The negroes of the Diriman Malaka and Kissoor villages, situated on the banks of the river, come to Timbuctoo in their canoes. They bring to that market slaves, ivory, dried fish, earthen pots, and various other articles, which they exchange for glass trinkets, amber, coral and salt.
To the south of Timbuctoo there is a country called Ginbala, which extends far inland. The inhabitants are, as I was told, all Mahometans. They seldom come to Timbuctoo on account of the Tooariks, whom they dread. They are very industrious, and raise crops of millet and rice; they are hospitable to strangers, and have numerous herds of horned cattle and flocks of sheep and goats. They grow cotton, with which they manufacture stuffs for clothing. Having nothing to fear in communicating with Jenné, they prefer trading with that place.
The Foulahs who inhabit the neighbourhood of the river also visit Timbuctoo. The few whom I happened to see were similar in features and colour to those of the Fouta-Dhialon. They were armed with several pikes.
The trade of Timbuctoo is considerably cramped by the Tooariks, a warlike nation who render the inhabitants of the town their tributaries. The latter, for the privilege of carrying on their trade, give them what they demand, independently of the duties levied on the flotillas at Cabra. A refusal to satisfy them would be attended with serious consequences; for the Tooariks are very numerous, and sufficiently strong to cut off all communication between Cabra and Timbuctoo, when the city and its neighbourhood, having within themselves no agricultural resources, would be reduced to famine. The Moors entertain a profound contempt for the Tooariks, and when they would express their utmost hatred of them, they compare them to the christians, whom they suppose to be the same kind of vagabonds and depredators. I endeavoured to refute this error, which received implicit credit here. I assured them that the Europeans were not to be compared to those marauders; that, instead of robbing, they were always ready to assist and succour their fellow creatures. “But if the christians are so very good,” said they, “why did you not stay among them;” This question embarrassed me a little; but I replied that God had ordained it otherwise, and had inspired me with the idea of returning to my country to resume the religion of my fathers.
The house of my host Sidi was constantly infested with Tooariks and Arabs. These people visit Timbuctoo for the sole purpose of extorting from the inhabitants what they call presents, but what might be more properly called forced contributions. I have often seen them sit in the court and insist on being supplied with food until the master sent them his tribute. They always come on horseback and their horses must be provided with forage.
When the chief of the Tooariks arrives with his suite at Timbuctoo, it is a general calamity, and yet every one overwhelms him with attention, and sends presents to him and his followers. He sometimes remains there two months, being maintained all that time at the expense of the inhabitants and the king, who sometimes give them really valuable presents, and they return home laden with millet, rice, honey, and preserved articles.
The Tooariks and Soorgoos are the same people: the former name is given to them by the Moors and the latter by the negroes. They are a wandering race, and inhabit the banks of the Dhioliba from the village of Diré to the environs of Haoussa, which my host informed me was twenty days’ journey E. by S. E. of Timbuctoo, situated in a vast country of the same name, watered by the river.
The Tooariks have terrified the negroes of their neighbourhood into subjection, and they inflict upon them the most cruel depredations and exactions. Like the Arabs, they have fine horses which facilitate their marauding expeditions. The people exposed to their attacks stand in such awe of them, that the appearance of three or four Tooariks is sufficient to strike terror into five or six villages. At Timbuctoo the slaves are never allowed to go out of the town after sun-set, lest they should be carried off by the Tooariks, who forcibly seize all who fall in their way. The condition of these unhappy beings is then more deplorable than ever. I saw some in the little canoes almost naked, and their masters were constantly threatening to beat them.
The Tooariks possess numerous flocks of sheep and herds of oxen and goats. Milk and meat are their only food. Their slaves gather the seed of the nenuphar, which is very common in all the surrounding marshes; they dry it and thrash it. It is so small that it does not require bruising; they boil it with their fish. The Tooariks cultivate no kind of vegetable. Their slaves are employed in tending their flocks and herds. They have no grain for their own use, except what they obtain from the flotillas passing from Jenné to Timbuctoo. During the swell of the waters, the Tooariks retire a little into the interior of the country, where they find good pasture. They have numerous herds of camels, whose milk is always a certain resource for them.
The Foulahs who live in the neighbourhood of the river are not kept in subjection by these savages. The Foulahs are very superior to the pure negro race; they are full of energy, and are too brave to submit to the degrading yoke of the Tooariks. These Foulahs do not speak the Poulh language of the Fouta-Dhialon. I addressed to them some words in that dialect which they did not understand. They speak the language of Timbuctoo; but they have also a particular dialect which they use among themselves. All those whom I saw on the banks of the river were rovers.
I sometimes saw the camels of the Tooariks employed in transporting merchandise from Cabra to Timbuctoo; but only the poorest among them would condescend to earn any thing by this sort of labour. The rich are too proud to work. They sell at Timbuctoo oxen and sheep for the usual consumption of the town. Milk is very dear and not so good as on the banks of the river.
The Tooariks have, like all Mahometans, several wives. The largest and the fattest are the most admired. To be a real beauty with them, a woman must have such a degree of obesity as will render her unable to walk without two assistants.
They are dressed like the Moorish women on the banks of the Senegal; but instead of blue Guinea stuffs they wear blue pagnes, which are brought from Jenné, and which the merchants of Timbuctoo procure for them. Those I saw in passing the chief’s camp were very dirty, and the men did not appear to be very careful about their dress. Like the negroes of Timbuctoo, they wore a white or blue coussabe, and trowsers reaching to the ancle, such as are worn at Jenné and Timbuctoo. The slaves have breeches, like the Moors who inhabit the banks of the Senegal. The dress of the Tooariks, except as to the head, resembles that of the Moors. They wear, both night and day, a band of cotton cloth, which passing over the forehead hangs down over the eyes and even upon the nose, for they are obliged to throw back the head a little to enable them to see. After two or three turns round the head the band is passed under the nose, and made to descend a little below the chin, so that only the point of the nose is visible. They do not take it off either to eat, to drink, or to smoke. On these occasions they merely lift up this bandage, which the negroes call fatara.
The Tooariks are great smokers. They have all fine horses, which they manage ably. They are as cruel as they are warlike. Their weapons consist of three or four pikes and a poniard which they wear on the left arm; the blade pointing upward and the hilt touching the back of the hand. To the sheath of these poniards is attached a kind of muff, through which the hand is passed; they are straight and very well made. This weapon is brought from the banks of the Mediterranean. These men also carry bucklers, of tanned ox-hide, the workmanship of which is elegant. In their form they resemble the shields of the ancient knights, except that they are square at the extremities.[5] They are adorned with handsome designs, and are large enough to cover the whole body. Some negroes of Timbuctoo have likewise bucklers of the same form, but smaller. The only weapons of the Tooariks, who are always on horseback, are the lance and the poniard. They do not use the bow, as the management of their bucklers would prevent them from employing that weapon advantageously. The people who compose this wandering tribe have long hair and a very swarthy complexion, like the Moors. The nose is aquiline, the eyes large, the mouth finely formed, the face long, and the forehead rather elevated. The expression of their countenance is, however, savage and barbarous. They are supposed to be of Arab origin, and in fact, in some of their customs they resemble that race; but they speak a particular dialect. They assemble in force to attack the caravans from Tripoli, but the Morocco caravans are less exposed to their depredations because their haunts are more northerly. They keep many slaves, whom they partly employ in collecting gum on the banks of the river. This gum, and also considerable quantities of ivory, they sell to the merchants of Timbuctoo.
It is astonishing that such a number of different tribes submit quietly to the yoke of these Tooariks, when, were they to come to an understanding, they could so easily rid themselves of their troublesome enemy. The Dirimans, the Ginbalas, the Kissoors, and the Moors of Zawâ and Salah, if united, would be greatly superior to the Tooariks, and could soon deliver themselves from their oppression. The Tooariks dread fire-arms, of which they make no use, while the negroes of Timbuctoo and the Moors are armed with double-barrel guns.
The Foulahs in the neighbourhood of Jenné, led by their chief Sego-Ahmadoo, attacked the Tooariks; the Foulahs were few in number, on account of their distance from their country, and the difficulty of procuring supplies of provisions; nevertheless, they defeated the Tooariks, made a number of prisoners, whom they put to death, and carried off a multitude of slaves and cattle, which were valuable prizes to the victors. This defeat proves, that there is no good reason for the dread with which the Tooariks are regarded, and that they are really formidable to those only who fear them. Were these tributaries, supported by the Moors, to attempt to throw off their yoke, they would quickly succeed; but, in general, the negroes are indolent, and the Moors, being addicted to commerce, have no martial character. Sego-Ahmadoo, indignant at seeing these Tooariks, who are Mahometans, although certainly not very zealous disciples of that creed, imposing a tax on the vessels from his country, has determined to make war upon them; but he is too distant to maintain a long war. I conjecture that Mungo Park was murdered by these barbarians.
After residing four years at Jenné, or Timbuctoo, the Moors return to their own country with a little fortune; they carry with them a number of slaves; the greater part, however, prefer trading with Sansanding and Yamina, on account of the vicinity of the gold mines of Bouré, whence they obtain considerable supplies of this precious metal. The Arabs, who come from Tafilet, Adrar, Tripoli, and other countries, bring wheat to Timbuctoo: of the flour of this wheat small leavened loaves are made; they are round, and weigh about half a pound each; the bread is good, and a loaf may be purchased for about forty cowries, (equal to four sous French money). The rich merchants, as I believe I have already observed, eat this bread at breakfast, with tea; they have tea services which are brought from Morocco; those which I saw were made of tin, and the cups were small, like Sidi-Ulad-Marmoo’s, at Jenné. All the negroes of Timbuctoo are able to read the Koran, and even know it by heart; they make their children begin to learn it very early, whether they take upon themselves the task of instructing them, or confide their education to the Moors, of whose abilities they have a high opinion. They employ writing in their correspondence with Jenné.
Provisions are very dear in Timbuctoo, and I should have been greatly embarrassed if, as at Timé, I had been obliged to maintain myself, for my means would have been soon exhausted. To the worthy and generous Sidi-Abdallahi-Chebir, I was therefore indebted for my return through the great desert. I had only merchandise to the value of thirty-five piastres, which I reserved to buy a camel, to carry me to the sea-coast, either through the great desert, or by directing my course westerly. I confess that the idea of crossing the Sahara in so dry a season was accompanied by not a little alarm; I was afraid that, with my slight resources, I should not be able to support the privations and fatigues of such a journey, augmented, as they must be, by a scorching wind, which blows unceasingly and renders the heat intolerable. However, after mature reflection, I resolved to encounter the dangers to which the great drought could not fail to expose me, and to venture with a caravan among the moving sands of the desert. I reflected that if I should return by the way of Sego, Sansanding, and our establishments at Galam, those who might envy the success of my enterprise, the very undertaking of which had created for me many enemies, would pretend to doubt the fact of my journey and of my residence at Timbuctoo, whereas, by returning through the Barbary states, the mere mention of the point at which I had arrived would reduce the most malignant to silence.
Sidi-Abdallahi daily lavished on me marks of his kindness; he even went so far as to urge me to remain in Timbuctoo. He said he would give me merchandise to trade on my own account; and, observed, that when I should have accumulated sufficient profit, I might return to my own country without assistance from any one. However, the fear of being discovered, joined to a strong wish to re-visit my native land, induced me to decline his generous offers. I considered, moreover that, as my departure for the interior of Africa was not authentically known, even that circumstance would be buried in oblivion, were I to perish, and the observations I had made would be lost to my country. Influenced by these considerations, I resolved to endeavour to return as speedily as possible. As the opportunity on which I relied, was likely to occur soon, I did not neglect to take advantage of the short time which would probably be at my disposal. I visited the great mosque on the west side of the town; it is larger than that on the east, but is built in the same style. The walls are in bad repair, their facing being damaged by the rains, which fall in the months of August and September, and which are always brought on by easterly winds, accompanied by violent storms. Several buttresses are raised against the wall to support them; I ascended the tower, though its staircase, which is internal, is almost demolished. I returned several times to make my notes, for in this little frequented spot I was not afraid of being observed. During these travels, I always endeavoured to conceal myself while writing, lest I should awaken the suspicion of the Moslems: I always endeavoured to get into a wood, or placed myself under the shade of a bush or a rock, when I wished to commit what I thought worthy of remark to writing.[6]
From the tower I had an extensive view over an immense plain of white sand, on which nothing grows except a few stunted shrubs, the mimosa ferruginea, and where the uniformity of the picture is only here and there broken by some scattered hills or banks of sand. I could not help contemplating with astonishment the extraordinary city before me, created solely by the wants of commerce, and destitute of every resource except what its accidental position as a place of exchange affords. The western quarter of the mosque seems very ancient, but the whole façade on that side is in ruins. There are also some vaulted arcades, from which the whole of the plaster facing is detached. This mosque is constructed of sun-dried bricks, of nearly the same form as those made in Europe. The walls are rough-cast with a kind of coarse sand, similar to that of which the bricks are made, mixed with the gluten of rice. In some parts of the desert there is found a very hard ash-coloured earth, in which sand predominates. This earth has been used in making the bricks for the mosque. The rest of the edifice appears to have been built after the western part was in ruins. Though the new part is very well for a people ignorant of architecture, it is greatly inferior to the ancient remains.
I was surprised to find in the ancient part three galleries, each supported by ten arcades, as well built as if they had been the work of a skilful architect. The arches are six feet wide and ten high; there the plaster is in an excellent state, and appears to have been white-washed. The style and the position of this building connect it with the ruins. I am inclined to think that the mosque consisted originally of this part only, and that additions were afterwards made to it.
The eastern part is composed of six galleries; those of the west are supported by nineteen pillars. The apertures are each six feet and a half wide, and ten or eleven high. The workmanship, though pretty well executed, is, as I have already observed, far from equalling that of the other quarter. The first three galleries on the east side, are one hundred and four ordinary paces[7] long, and about two and a half broad: the three next are only sixty-four long. The length of those on the west is only thirty nine paces. They lead to the great tower, which faces an inner court, closed on the west by the ruins. It is of a square form, but terminates in a small truncated pyramid, which is also built of brick and surmounted by a pot of baked earth. Its height may be estimated at fifty or fifty-five feet from the base to the summit. The steps of the staircase, which is constructed internally, are supported by pieces of wood fixed in the walls and covered with earth. The dilapidated state of the staircase prevented me from ascertaining the exact number of the steps, but I observed the traces of thirty-two.
SKETCH OF THE PLAN OF THE GREAT MOSQUE OF TIMBUCTOO, AND VIEW TAKEN FROM THE E. N. E.
1, 4, 3, DETAILS OF THE GREAT MOSQUE OF TIMBUCTOO; 4, 5, PLAN AND FRONT OF THE HOUSE OF SIDI ABDALLAH CHEBIR, IN WHICH MR. CAILLIÉ RESIDED.
The walls of the mosque are fifteen feet high and twenty-five or twenty-six inches thick. The top of the wall of the east front is indented in the form of battlements, the salient parts of which are surmounted by pots of baked earth, similar to that on the summit of the tower.
Another massive tower, of a conical form, surmounts the front wall. It is about thirty feet high. On the dome, projecting pieces of wood are perceptible, the use of which seems to be to unite the masonry.
The roof of the mosque has a terrace like that of the tower, and is moreover surrounded with a parapet eighteen inches high.
The roof of the building is supported by rafters, formed of the trunks of the ronnier tree split into four, and placed at the distance of a foot from each other. Pieces of salvadora wood, brought from Cabra, where it grows in great abundance, cut to the length of the intervals between the rafters, are placed obliquely in double rows, crossing each other. Over these are laid mats made of the leaves of the ronnier, which are covered with earth.
This mosque has five gates of different sizes on the eastern side, three on the south side, and two on the north. On the western side the ruins form at once the boundary of the mosque and of the city. On the eastern and northern sides, the floor of the building is level with the ground; but on the south is an ascent of four steps.
On the eastern wall, in the interior of the building, there are some ornaments made of yellow clay. They are in the form of a chevron or triangular festoon, two feet high, with an opening of a foot and a half. They commence about eighteen inches above the ground. The pillars supporting the arcades in front, have some ornaments of the same material tolerably executed, but very much defaced. A kind of niche, in the centre of the eastern wall, is destined for the marabout who officiates at prayers. In another similar niche there is a large wooden pulpit, into which the priest ascends by two or three steps, on the days when he reads certain passages of the Koran. The floor of the mosque was covered with mats, on which the people kneel during prayers.
Conceiving that the description alone would not convey an adequate idea of the construction of this mosque, I ventured to make a sketch of it, as well as of the town; both would, I thought, convey a better idea than words alone of the objects with which I wish to make the reader acquainted[8].
To make my sketch of the mosque, I sat down in the street in front of it, and, covering myself in my large wrapper which I folded over my knees, I held in my hand a sheet of white paper close to a leaf of the Koran. When I perceived any one approaching, I hid my drawing, and looking at the leaf of the Koran I appeared to be absorbed in devotion. The passers-by, far from suspecting me, regarded me as one of the elect, and applauded my zeal[9].
The eastern mosque is much smaller than that on the western side. It is surmounted by a square tower, similar in form and dimensions to that of the western mosque. The walls are entirely stripped of their parget. Many buttresses have been erected to support the building. It has three arcaded avenues. The galleries are six feet wide and thirty feet long.
MR. CAILLIÉ MEDITATING UPON THE KORAN AND TAKING NOTES.
VIEW OF THE CITY OF TIMBUCTOO.
The mosque itself is thirty paces long and five and twenty wide. The arcades which are three feet and a half wide and seven and a half high are built of the same bricks as those of the western mosque. There is an inner court, which must be passed through before we can ascend the tower. No part of this mosque is in ruins, though it appears very old. It is not very regularly built. I remarked that it had two gates looking to the south and one to the north. The western and eastern sides had no apertures. Near the mosque, on the eastern side, are seen a small hillock of sand, and some buildings overwhelmed by the sand blown up by the east wind.
In the centre of the town is a kind of square surrounded by circular huts. Here grow some palmæ christi and a palm-tree, the only one I saw in the country. In the middle of this square is a large hole, dug for a receptacle for filth. Two enormous heaps on the outside of the town appeared to me to be also collections of dirt or rubbish. Many a time have I ascended to the tops of these hills to obtain a complete view of the town and to make my sketch[10].
A third and somewhat remarkable mosque stands nearly in the centre of the town. This likewise has a tower, but not so high as those of the other two. It has square arcades: the naves are seven feet wide and twenty five long. The front wall is ornamented with many ostrich eggs, some of which are also placed on the top of the tower. On the east side is a very extensive court, in the middle of which a balanites ægyptiaca is planted by way of ornament. At the back of the mosque on the opposite side, some salvadoras.
There are five mosques besides those which I have mentioned; but they are small and built like private houses, with the exception that each is surmounted by a minaret; all of them have an inner court, to which the people resort in the evening to perform their religious devotions. The criers, whose business it is to call to prayers, receive no salary; but at stated periods they announce to the faithful from the summits of the minarets that it is time to pay their contributions. I happened to be at Timbuctoo at one of these periods. Each person made his offering, consisting of bread, millet, rice, dried fish, pistachios and cowries; all these articles were deposited on a mat spread on the ground, before the door of the mosque.
It frequently happened that Moors who felt interested in my situation questioned me about European customs and the treatment I had experienced at the hands of the christians. I tried in my turn to obtain from them information concerning the neighbouring nations and the distance of their country from Timbuctoo. But, so far from satisfying my curiosity, they pretended not to hear me, and turned from me to speak to each other. Unfortunately, I had not the means of gaining their favour by presents. They called me the meskine (beggar). The little information I obtained at Timbuctoo was furnished me by my host Sidi-Abdallahi-Chebir, and by some Kissour negroes. These were the only individuals who had the civility to reply to my questions. They had no definite idea of the course of the river eastward of the city. Sidi assured me, that it went to Haoussa and joined the Nile[11]. This is the general opinion of the Arabs of this country. This river bears at Timbuctoo the name of Bahar-el-Nil (Nile river).
The house which was appropriated for my residence not being quite finished, I had opportunity to observe the way in which the houses of this country are built. An excavation is made in the town itself to the depth of some feet, where a grey sand mixed with clay is found. This is made into bricks of a round form, which are baked in the sun. These bricks are similar to those used at Jenné. The young slaves carry them on their heads in calabashes, the way in which they also carry the mortar, which is formed from the same material. The builders, who are slaves, execute their work as cleverly as those of Jenné. I thought indeed that their walls were better constructed. Their doors are well made and solid; they are formed of planks joined with bars and nails brought from Tafilet. They fasten their doors by locks made in the country, without iron: even the keys are of wood[12]. Some Moors use iron locks and keys which they bring from the coasts of the Mediterranean. Locks are not used in the interior of the houses; but chains or bars supply their place. The roofs of the houses, none of which have more than the ground-floor, are, like those of the mosques, supported by rafters cut from the trunk of the ronnier, a tree which grows to a prodigious height on the banks of the river. I have seen some of these trees above a hundred and twenty five feet high. The trunk is split into four quarters, which are rounded off, laid upon the walls, and then covered with pieces of wood, mats and earth, like the roofs of the mosques.
Each house forms a square,[13] containing two inner courts, round which are ranged the chambers, each of which is of a narrow oblong form and serves at once for a magazine and bed-room. These rooms receive light only from the door of entrance, and another very small door opening into the inner court. They have neither windows nor chimneys.
The people of Timbuctoo have not adopted the practice, which is general in the Soudan, of lighting fires in their houses. Some of them build in the court a small hut of mats, in which during summer they live day and night; the chambers being too warm.
A chamber similar to those I have above described was allotted to me; but I had well nigh been suffocated in it. I found it impossible to endure the heat, especially in the night. But what could I do in a country where there is not a tree to cast the least shade? My only refuge was a mosque which was the coolest and most airy place I could find. The east wind too, by raising clouds of dust, darkens the atmosphere and augments the heat. The inhabitants stay within doors during the heat of the day, and only go out in the mornings and evenings. The nights bring with them an oppressive calmness of the atmosphere, and if by chance there is a breath of air, it is felt like a burning vapour, and seems almost to scorch the lungs. I was continually ill at Timbuctoo.
The caravan destined for Tafilet was not to leave Timbuctoo for some days, and I was informed that the next did not start for three months; I therefore determined to take advantage of the earliest conveyance; for I dreaded so long a stay at Timbuctoo, notwithstanding the reiterated invitations of Sidi-Abdallahi, who recommended to me to take the route of Tripoli by Ardamas rather than that of Morocco. He told me that he had intended to make a collection for me, but that my speedy departure afforded him no time to do so. He assured me that, if I would remain with him some months, my subsistence should cost me nothing. I scarcely knew how to decline such kindness, but I had formed my determination; I excused myself to Sidi, by telling him that I was afraid to travel in the rainy season, and finding me obstinate he looked out for a good guide to conduct me to Tafilet.
The Moors in whose company I was about to travel were far from being so kind and civilized as those who reside in the city. I had had an opportunity of observing their manners before I started; for, they often came and begged of me, and made no scruple of rousing me out of my sleep. They are a class of men whom the Moors of a superior order call zenagues, (tributaries). They are very ignorant. Many of them do not know the first prayers of the Koran. They however observe religious ceremonies. A poor stranger like myself, unacquainted with their language, was in their eyes an object of contempt. I expected therefore to suffer much in crossing the desert.
Sidi-Abdallahi informed me that he had hired a camel to carry me to Tafilet. The thirty thousand cowries’ worth of cloth, the proceeds of the sale of my merchandise at Jenné, sufficed to pay for the camel. Sidi told me that he would keep my cloth and give my guide ten mitkhals of gold, or thirty piastres.
I employed the remainder of the time I stayed in Timbuctoo in collecting information respecting the unfortunate death of Major Laing, which I had heard mentioned at Jenné, and which was confirmed by the inhabitants of Timbuctoo whom I questioned respecting the melancholy event. I learned, that when within a few days’ journey of the city, the caravan to which the major belonged was stopped, on the road to Tripoli, by the Tooariks, or as others alleged, by the Berbiches, a wandering tribe, near the Dhioliba. Laing, being discovered to be a christian, was cruelly attacked, and his assailants continued beating him with a club until they thought him dead. I conclude that the other christian, who was said to have been actually murdered, was a servant of the major’s.
The Moors belonging to the caravan raised Laing up, and succeeded in restoring him to animation. When he became sensible, they placed him upon a camel, but he was so weak that they were obliged to tie him on. The robbers left him almost destitute, having robbed him of the greater part of his merchandise.
On his arrival at Timbuctoo, Major Laing healed his wounds by the aid of an ointment which he brought with him from England. His recovery was slow; but he was made very comfortable, owing to the letters of recommendation which he had brought from Tripoli, and especially to the attention of his landlord, a Tripolitan, to whom he had been directed. The house of this Moor was near that in which I lodged at Timbuctoo. I had frequent opportunities of seeing him. He appeared to me a man full of kindly feelings. Many a time he has given me dates, from mere charity, and the day before I left he made me a present of a pair of blue cotton trowsers, to wear on my journey.
He told me that the major had been recommended by a Tripolitan house to an old Moor, who, not having convenience to lodge him, transferred him to his hospitality. Laing, he added, never laid aside his European dress, and used to give out that he had been sent by his master the King of England, for the purpose of making himself acquainted with Timbuctoo and the wonders it contains.[14] It would appear that the traveller had openly taken a plan of Timbuctoo, for the same Moor told me in his simple way that he had written down every thing in it.
Other Moors, whom I questioned respecting Laing, merely told me that the major ate little, and that he lived entirely on bread, eggs, and poultry. I moreover learned that he was tormented to say that there is but one God and that Mahomet is his prophet; but he always stopped at the words: “There is but one God” They then called him cafir, and infidel, but, without ill treating him, left him free to think and pray in his own way. Sidi-Abdallahi, whom I often questioned as to whether the major had been insulted during his stay at Timbuctoo, always replied in the negative; shaking his head, to give me to understand, that they would have been sorry to annoy him.
This toleration may be accounted for by the fact, that the Moors who reside at Timbuctoo come from Tripoli, Algiers, and Morocco, and that, being in the habit of seeing christians in their own countries, they are less liable to be offended at their worship and their manners. For instance, Sidi-Abdallahi, who came from Tatta, a town near Cape Mogador, was not inimical to the christians. Thus it may easily be conceived that the major was free to inspect every part of the town and even to enter the mosques.
It would appear that, after he had made himself completely acquainted with Timbuctoo, he wished to see Cabra and the Dhioliba. But had he left the city in the day time he would have incurred the greatest danger from the Tooariks, who are continually roaming about the environs of Timbuctoo, and whose attack he had too much reason to remember. He determined to set off during the night. This was wise, for though the Tooariks dared not touch him while he staid in the town, they would have wrecked their vengeance on him had they caught him beyond its limits, and murdered as well as robbed him.
Taking advantage of a dark night, Major Laing mounted his horse, and, unaccompanied by a single native, reached Cabra, and even, it is said, the banks of the Dhioliba, without accident. On his return to Timbuctoo, he ardently wished, instead of proceeding to Europe by the desert, to travel by Jenné and Sego, ascending the Dhioliba, whence he might have reached the French factories on the Senegal. But, no sooner had he communicated his plan to the Foulahs established on the borders of the Dhioliba; (a great number of whom had resorted to Timbuctoo, on hearing of the arrival of a christian) than they all declared they would never suffer a nasarah to set foot in their territory, and if he made the attempt, they warned him that he would have cause to repent it.
The major, perceiving that he could do nothing with these fanatics, chose the rout of el-Arawan, where he hoped to join a caravan of Moorish merchants, conveying salt to Sansanding; but alas! after journeying five days to the north of Timbuctoo, the caravan with which he had come up was stopped by Sheikh Hamet-oul’d-Habib, an old fanatic, chief of the tribe of Zawât, who wander in the desert of that name. Sheikh Hamet seized the major, under pretence of his having entered his territory without permission. He then wished to compel him to acknowledge Mahomet to be prophet of God, and required him even to make the salam. Laing relying too confidently on the protection of the pacha of Tripoli, who had recommended him to all the sheikhs of the desert, refused to obey Hamet, who more and more urgently insisted on his acknowledging himself a Musulman. Laing continued firm, and chose to die rather than yield; a resolution which made one of the most intelligent of travellers a martyr to the cause of science. A Moor, belonging to the train of the chief of the Zawâts, who was directed by his master to kill the christian, refused to execute his order. “What!” said he, “do you wish me to slay the first christian who has come among us, and one who has done us no injury? give the commission to another; I will not be the instrument of his death; kill him yourself.” This address suspended for a moment the fatal sentence, and the question of Laing’s life or death was warmly debated for some time. At length the latter was decided on. Some black slaves were summoned, and they were ordered to perform the horrid deed, with which the Moor had refused to stain his hands. One of the murderers immediately tied his turban round the neck of the victim, and strangled him on the spot, he pulling one end while his comrade held the other. The corpse of the unfortunate Laing was cast upon the desert, to become the prey of the raven and the vulture, the only birds which inhabit those desolate regions.
When the major had once been discovered to be a christian and a European, death was a thousand times preferable to even a temporary change of religion, since he must have renounced all hope of again visiting Europe. The fate of Laing, had he become a Musulman perforce, would have been irremediably wretched. He would have been the slave of merciless barbarians, and exposed to all the miseries and dangers peculiar to that country; in vain would the pacha of Tripoli have demanded his liberation. At that immense distance, the chief of the Zawâts would have scorned his menaces and detained his prisoner. The resolution of Major Laing was perhaps at once a proof of intrepidity and of foresight.
On his departure for El-Arawan the major took with him some astronomical instruments and his papers, but very little merchandise, for the Tooariks had relieved him of nearly all he possessed. The Sheikh Hamet therefore gained little by the murder of the English traveller, and he was even obliged to divide that little with the wretches whom he had made the instruments of his crime. A Moor of Tafilet, who belonged to the caravan, had for his share of the spoil a sextant, which I was informed might be found in the country. As for the major’s papers and journals, they were scattered among the inhabitants of the desert. During my stay at Gourland, a village of Tafilet, I saw a copper pocket compass, of English manufacture. Nobody could tell me whence this instrument had come, and I concluded that it had belonged to Laing. Had it not been for the precautions I was compelled to observe in my Arabic disguise, I would have given a good price for it; but I could not, without betraying myself, show that I attached the least value to an instrument, of the use of which I was supposed to be ignorant.
I have left a wide field of discovery for those who come after me, especially in the geography and natural history of this country. What I have suffered should not discourage future enquirers. Their attempts will doubtless be attended with hardships and danger; but an enterprise conducted with prudence would triumph over obstacles. To ensure success, the traveller should, I think, make no sort of display; he should externally adopt the worship of Mahomet, and pass himself off for an Arab. A pretended convert would not enjoy so much liberty, and would be an object of suspicion to such distrustful people. Besides, I am of opinion that a converted christian would not be tolerated among the negro tribes. The best plan would be, I think to cross the great desert of Sahara in the character of an Arab, provided with adequate but concealed resources. After remaining for some time in the Musulman town selected by the traveller as his starting point, where he might give himself out as a merchant, to avoid suspicion, he might purchase some merchandise in that town, under the pretence of going to trade further on, carefully abstaining from all mention of the city of Timbuctoo.
Let us suppose Tangiers or Arbate to be the place chosen as the point of departure; mercantile business at Fez might be alleged as an excuse for setting off. Still adopting the same pretence, the traveller might proceed from Fez to Tafilet, and thence to Timbuctoo. At Tafilet there would be no danger of speaking of Timbuctoo, for there a journey to the Soudan is an affair of frequent occurrence and it excites no attention. It would be advisable to purchase merchandise at Tafilet for the purpose of exportation. On reaching Timbuctoo, the traveller should settle there, establish a mercantile house; but he should above all things avoid appearing rich, and must make himself familiar with the customs of the country, and be very circumspect in every thing connected with religion.
After remaining at Timbuctoo seventeen or eighteen months, and purchasing some Mandingo or Bambara slaves speaking the Kissour and Tooarik languages, he might procure a middle-sized well built canoe, for the conveyance of merchandise and provisions. It would be necessary to take a supply of the latter, on account of the uncertainty of being able to procure them from the people who dwell on the banks of the river. By promising the slaves their liberty, they might be easily prevailed upon to undertake the voyage, the pretended object of which would be to trade in the lower part of the river, and to purchase gum, ivory, &c. It would not be necessary to adopt all these precautions for the passage of the river above Cabra.
To lull suspicion, it would be advisable to leave at Timbuctoo a certain quantity of merchandise, under the care of a confidential slave, who might have orders to dispose of it under the direction of a Moorish merchant, during his master’s absence.
Being once fairly embarked in the canoe with six slaves, good swimmers, it would be preferable to proceed onward during the night on account of the wandering tribes of Tooariks and others. But even if they were met during the day time, they might be got rid of with a few presents. This course, prudently and cautiously followed, would, I doubt not, be attended with complete success, and it appears to me preferable to the plan of sending numerous expeditions, which would rouse the cupidity and distrust of the natives.
The rapid passage of the little canoe would render the voyage infinitely less fatiguing and dangerous than if performed in a large vessel. Sidi-Abdallahi informed me that Haoussa was only a twenty days’ passage from Timbuctoo, descending the river; but in a small canoe the passage might be accomplished in twelve days, and then the mouth of the river might be speedily reached, especially if it empties itself into the Ocean. This plan, I am convinced, would be far less dangerous than that of starting from the gulf of Benin, where great difficulties would always be experienced in ascending, both on account of the climate and the inhabitants.
CHAPTER XXII.
Departure from Timbuctoo on the 4th of May, 1828 — Caravanof six hundred camels — Entrance of the desert — Suffocating heat — The caravan falls in with the Tooariks — Manner in which the arabs direct their course in the desert — Aspect of Sahara, like the bed of a sea without water — Details respecting the caravans — The place where Major Laing was assassinated — El-Arawan, a city in the desert; its springs, population, and trade — Information respecting Tawât and Wâlet — Caravan of four hundred camels — Disheartening effect of the view of endless sands.
On parting with my host, I thanked him for his generous hospitality: though he had often declared that all the care he took of me was for the love of God and the prophet, I offered him the woollen wrapper which I bought at Kakondy, and which had been so useful to me during my long illness at Timé; I also offered him the satala or vase which I used for my ablutions. Contrary to my expectation, this excellent man declined receiving my offered presents, observing that I should want those articles in the course of my journey, and that I ought not to be deprived of them. At last, overcome by my solicitations, he consented to accept them; but, the day before my departure, he, in his turn, presented me with a cotton wrapper manufactured in the Soudan, and which was of equal value with the one I had given him. He added to this handsome present a new cotton coussabe also, that I might have a change of dress on my journey. This was not all, he presented me with a stock of provisions sufficient to last till I reached El-Arawan; and he paid all the expenses of my journey to that place, warmly recommending me to one of the inhabitants, who was his agent, during the stay I should make there before I crossed the great desert. In short, he spared no pains to diminish the hardships of that undertaking. He also gave me two leathern bottles to hold my supply of water for the journey; some dokhnou, wheaten bread, baked in the same way as our biscuit, melted butter, and a large quantity of rice.
It was very warm during the whole of the fortnight that I stayed at Timbuctoo; the wind never ceased to blow from the east.
The caravan destined for el-Arawan, with which I had resolved to travel, was to set out on the 4th of May, at sun-rise. My host was up so early that morning as to allow me time, before my departure, to breakfast with him on tea, new bread, and butter. That nothing might diminish the agreeable impression which my stay at Timbuctoo had made upon me, I met, on departing, the host of Major Laing, who made me accept some new clothing for my journey.
Sidi-Abdallahi accompanied me to some distance from his house, and, at parting with me, he affectionately pressed my hand and wished me a good journey. This farewell detained me almost too long. To rejoin the caravan, which had already proceeded to a considerable distance, I was obliged, as well as three slaves who had also remained behind, to run a whole mile through the sand. This effort fatigued me so much, that, on reaching the caravan, I fell down in a state of insensibility; I was lifted up and placed on a loaded camel, where I sat among the packages, and though dreadfully shaken I was too glad at being relieved from the labour of walking to complain of my beast.
On the 4th of May, 1828, at eight in the morning, we directed our route to the north over a sandy soil, almost moving, quite level, and completely barren. However, at the distance of two miles from the town, we met with a few shrubs resembling junipers, and some rather tall clusters of mimosa ferruginea, which yield a gum of inferior quality. The inhabitants of Timbuctoo send their slaves hither for fire-wood. The heat was most oppressive, and the progress of the camels was extremely slow; for, as they moved along, they browsed on the thistles and withered herbs, which they found scattered here and there on these plains. During this first day the slaves were allowed to drink at discretion, as I was. This conduct was doubtless very humane; nevertheless, I was soon shocked by an act of barbarity, which I had the misfortune to see too often repeated. A poor Bambara slave of twenty-five was cruelly treated by some Moors, who compelled him to walk, without allowing him to halt for a moment, or to quench his burning thirst. The complaints of this unfortunate creature, who had never been accustomed to endure such extraordinary privations, might have moved the hardest heart. Sometimes he would beg to rest himself against the crupper of a camel, and at others he threw himself down on the sand in despair. In vain did he implore, with uplifted hands, a drop of water; his cruel masters answered his prayers and his tears only with stripes.
At Timbuctoo the merchants give the slaves shirts, such as are worn in the country, that they may be decently covered; but on the route the Moors of the caravans, who are the most barbarous men I ever knew, take the good shirts from them and give them others all in rags.
At five in the evening the caravan, the camels of which amounted to nearly six hundred, halted in a ravine of yellow sand, which was, however, pretty solid. Here these animals found some herbage, and the spot appeared to me delightful. A slave, who was barely allowed time to take a drink of water, was ordered to look after our camels, and we thought of nothing but how to pass the night quietly; but before we laid ourselves down to sleep, we made our supper on a calabash of water, some dokhnou, and the bread which I had received from Sidi-Abdallahi; the bread being hard we soaked it in the water, into which we put a little butter and honey. This mixture was to us a delicious beverage. The slaves had for their supper some sangleh seasoned with butter and salt. These good-natured creatures were so kind as to offer me some of their meal.
On the 5th of May, at sun-rise, we resumed our journey. We still proceeded towards the north, upon ground similar to that over which we passed on the preceding day. A few stunted bushes were descried here and there, and also some salvadoras, which the camels devoured.
Towards noon we approached a less level region, where the ground was raised into slightly elevated mounds, all inclining in the direction from east to west. The heat was suffocating, on account of the east wind, which raised great clouds of sand: our lips were covered with it; our thirst became insupportable; and our sufferings increased in proportion as we advanced further in the desert. We fell in with two Tooariks, who were going to el-Arawan, and whom we took to be the scouts of a troop of these marauders. Fortunately they were alone. They were both mounted on one camel. On the left arm they had a leather buckler; by the side, a poniard; and in the right hand, a pike. Knowing that they should meet us in their route, they had brought no provisions with them, and trusted to the caravan for a supply. These robbers, who would have trembled at the slightest menace, if seriously made, took advantage of the terror which their name and the crimes of their tribe every where spread, and obtained whatever they demanded: in a word, the best of every thing was presented to them. On the one hand, there was a sort of rivalship in offering them whatever they chose to eat; on the other, to give them water, though it would be six days before we should come to any. At last, after they had staid with us three days, we had the satisfaction to see them depart, and to be delivered from their troublesome company.
At four in the evening we encamped to pass the night, during which we were oppressed by excessive heat, caused by a dead calm. The sky was heavy and covered with clouds which seemed immoveable in the immensity of space. Still the heat continued intense.
Before proceeding farther, I ought to inform the reader how I continued to make an estimate of the route. We travelled, at an average, about two miles an hour. At night we proceeded almost constantly in a northerly direction. Being afraid that my pocket compass would be noticed if I took it out to consult it, I judged of our course during the day by the sun; in the night, by the pole-star.
It is by this star that the Arabs are guided in all their excursions through the desert. The oldest caravan conductors go first, to lead the way. A sand-hill, a rock, a difference of colour in the sand, a few tufts of herbage, are infallible marks, which enable them to recognize their situation. Though without a compass, or any instrument for observation, they possess so completely the habit of noticing the most minute things, that they never go astray, though they have no path traced out for them, and though the wind in an instant completely covers with sand and obliterates the track of the camels.
The desert, however, does not always present the same aspect, or, consequently the same difficulties. In some parts I found it covered with rocks and gravel, which bore the traces of caravans that had passed long before. Besides, though the desert is a plain of sand and rock, the Arab commits few errors in crossing it, and is seldom wrong to the extent of half an hour in fixing the time of arrival at the wells. I ought not to omit to mention, that these wells are almost constantly found covered over, and that the first thing done on the arrival of a caravan is to clear away the sand.
On the 6th of May we resumed our march, at three in the morning, and continued our route to the north. Still the same soil, the same aridity, and the same uniformity, as on the preceding days.
The atmosphere was very heavy all day, and the heat excessive. It seemed as if we should have rain. The sun, concealed by clouds, appeared only at long intervals. But our prayers did not obtain from Heaven a drop of rain. In spite of all the prognostics no shower fell. The further northward we proceeded the more barren the country became. We no longer saw either thistles or salvadoras: sad consolations, where all nature wears so frightful an aspect! The plain had here the precise appearance of the ocean; perhaps such as the bed of a sea would have, if left by the water. In fact, the winds form in the sand undulating furrows, like the waves of the sea when a breeze slightly ruffles its surface. At the sight of this dismal spectacle, of this awful abandonment and nakedness, I forgot for a moment my hardships, to reflect on the violent convulsions which thus appeared to have dried up part of the ocean, and of the sudden catastrophes which have changed the face of our globe.
At eleven in the morning we halted. The heat was insupportable, and we seated ourselves beside some unhealthy looking mimosas, over which we extended our wrappers, for these shrubs being destitute of leaves afforded no shade of themselves. Under our tents thus formed, we had distributed to us a calabash of water, which was rendered tepid by the east wind. According to our custom, we threw into the water some handfuls of dokhnou. Finally, to relieve ourselves from every immediate care, we sent a slave to watch our camels, which were endeavouring to refresh themselves by browsing on some withered herbage. We then lay down to sleep on the sand, which at this place was covered with small stones. This was not done from indolence, but from consideration; for it was proper to wait for night to take advantage of the coolness, when we might travel more at our ease than during the day, in which the calms were sometimes more insupportable than the burning sun. During these calms I could not close my eyes, while the Moors slept soundly. The same kind of calm often prevails during the night, but then there is some compensation in the absence of the sun. In the inhabited countries, the night, or rather the latter part of the night, is always the most agreeable portion of the twenty-four hours. It is at day-break that the flowers exhale all their perfumes: the air is then gently agitated, and the birds commence their songs. Recollections, at once pleasing and painful, turned my thoughts to the south. In the midst of this frightful desert could I fail to regret the land which nature has embellished?
The caravans which traverse the desert are under no absolute commander; every one manages his camels as he pleases, whether he has many or few; some have fifteen, others six or ten; and there are individuals who possess not more than three; I have even seen some with only two, but these were very poor. Such persons join richer travellers and take care of their camels; in return, they are supplied with provisions and water during the journey.
The Moors always lay out the profits of their journeys in the purchase of camels, and none of them travel to Timbuctoo without possessing at least one. The camels do not advance in files, as they would do in our roads lined by hedges and cultivated lands. On the contrary they move in all directions, in groupes, or single, but in this journey their route is always between N. N. E. and N. N. W. Those which belong to one master keep together, and do not mix with strange camels; and I have seen as many as fifty grouped together in this way. A camel’s load is five hundred pounds, and the carriage from Timbuctoo to Tafilet costs ten or twelve gold mitkhals,[15] which are paid in advance.
The camels which convey merchandise of light weight, such as ostrich feathers, clothes, and stuffs in the piece, have their loads made up with slaves, water, and rice; for, the load being paid for according to its weight, the proprietors of the camels, if that weight were not completed, would gain nothing by the carriage of merchandise more cumbersome than heavy. When the caravan stops, the groupes of camels are kept at the distance of two hundred paces from each other, to obviate the confusion which would arise if they were suffered to mix together.
When the Moors return to their country, they do not carry back merely ostrich feathers and ivory; but they take also gold, some more, and some less. I saw some who had as much as the value of a hundred mitkhals. This gold is generally sent to the merchants of Tafilet by their correspondents at Timbuctoo, in return for the merchandise sent by the former, and sold on their account by the latter. During our halts in the deserts, I often saw the Moors weighing their gold in little scales similar to ours, which are made in Morocco. The gold which is conveyed by these travelling clerks of the desert is carefully rolled up in pieces of cloth, with a label, on which are written the weight of the metal and the name of the individual to whom it belongs.
When night set in, we took our usual supper, consisting of water, bread, butter, and honey. Several Moors, with whom we were not acquainted, came and asked us for a supper; they then invited the two Moors who were of our party to share their mess of baked rice and butter. Though they knew that they had partaken of my provisions, yet they did not think proper to invite me, a proof, that notwithstanding all my efforts, there existed a feeling of distrust towards me. At sun-set a north breeze arose, which, though not very cool, was nevertheless very reviving, and enabled me to enjoy a little sleep.
About eleven at night we set out, still proceeding northward, and directing our course by the pole-star. The camels are so well acquainted with the desert that, as soon as they are loaded, they take, as if by instinct, the northern course. It would seem that they are guided by the recollection of the springs of water which are found in that direction. I really believe that a traveller, though alone, might safely trust himself to the guidance of his camel.
The night was hot and calm, and the clear sky was studded with stars. We had before us the great and the little wain which appeared very near the horizon. As I could not sleep, I amused myself by observing the courses of the stars; I saw in the east the remarkable groupe called the constellation of Orion; I watched it during nearly half its course, almost to our zenith. On the approach of day, the stars disappeared and seemed to sink into an ocean of sand.
The camels never accelerate their pace, which is naturally somewhat tardy. When they are in haste, they thrust forward their necks, the motion of which corresponds with that of their legs. They are led by men on foot, whose labour is so fatiguing, that it is necessary to relieve them every two hours.
The ground over which we travelled during the night appeared to me to be even more barren than that which we had passed on the preceding days. For whole hours in succession we did not see a single blade of grass.
At eleven in the morning the heat became excessive, and we halted at a place where we found a few little banks of sand. A slave was sent to seek out a few bushes that might afford us shade, but no such thing was to be discovered. The reflection of the rays of the sun on the sand augmented the heat. It was impossible to stand barefoot on the sand without experiencing intolerable pain. The desert is here and there interspersed with a few hills, and we found at very distant intervals a little grass for the camels.
We had been the whole of the morning without drink, and as soon as our tents were pitched we slaked our thirst. Our water began to diminish in proportion as our thirst increased, therefore we did not cook any thing for supper, but merely drank a little dokhnou. About eleven at night we broke up our camp and proceeded northward: at seven in the morning we turned N. N. W.
At eleven o’clock on the 8th of May, the insupportable heat obliged us to halt on a spot as flat and barren as that at which we had stopped on the preceding day. We pitched our tents, and assembled beneath them. Some drink was distributed to us; and, as we had tasted none since five o’clock on the preceding evening, our thirst was very great. Though the water had received a bad taste from the leathern bag, it was nevertheless exceedingly grateful. I observed some ravens and vultures, the only inhabitants of these deserts. They subsist on the carcases of the camels that die and are left behind on the road. At half past six in the evening, after having refreshed ourselves with a glass of water and dokhnou, we proceeded on our journey. We travelled all night in a northerly direction. The camels, finding no pasture, went on without stopping.
About 8 o’clock on the morning of the 9th of May, we halted in a sandy plain, where we found a little grass for our poor camels. There we perceived at a distance the camels of el-Arawan.
In the morning, little before sun-rise, the Moors who accompanied me shewed me the spot where Major Laing was murdered. I there observed the site of a camp. I averted my eyes from this scene of horror, and secretly dropped a tear—the only tribute of regret I could render to the ill-fated traveller, to whose memory no monument will ever be reared on the spot where he perished.
Several Moors of our caravan, who had witnessed the fatal event, told me that the major had but little property with him when he was stopped by the chief of the Zawâts, and that he had offered five hundred piastres to a Moor to conduct him to Souyerah (Mogador). This the Moor refused to do, for what reason I was not informed, and I dared not inquire. They also spoke of the sextant, which I have mentioned above.
Having pitched our tents near some water, we could drink as much as we pleased. Rice was boiled for our dinner and we were somewhat indemnified for the privations we had undergone in the preceding days. At six in the evening we proceeded northwards over a very level sandy soil, on which were scattered a few solitary patches of vegetation. Though the sand has a tolerable consistency, yet not a tree was to be seen. Towards nine in the evening, we arrived at El-Arawan, another commercial entrepot. We encamped outside the city, and in the neighbourhood I observed several tents and camels, which I was told belonged to the caravan, waiting for the signal for departure. Our arrival was greeted by the howling of dogs, a circumstance which reminded me that I had seen none of those animals at Timbuctoo.
Being unaccustomed to riding on camels, I found myself extremely fatigued by the journey. The moment we stopped, I spread my wrapper upon the sand, and fell into a profound sleep. I did not find the heat so oppressive as it had been on the preceding days. I was roused to partake of an excellent couscous brought from the city.
On the morning of the 10th of May my guide took me to his correspondent Kalif, to whom I had been recommended in a private letter from Sidi-Abdallahi-Chebir. I met with a favourable reception, and he lodged me in one of his houses, where he had some slaves and merchandise.
As soon as I was installed in my new dwelling, my guide, who had been very attentive to me on the journey, wished through my influence to get himself quartered upon Kalif; but I refused to make any such proposal to my host, lest I should appear troublesome. Finding me obstinate on this point, he asked me to lend him my cotton wrapper to wear while he paraded about the town to visit his acquaintance. I consented to this in order to get rid of him; but next day, I thought it prudent to make him return my wrapper. Another time he told me that he had been robbed of the wooden bowl, out of which he used to drink on the journey, and earnestly begged me to ask my host for one and give it him. Wearied by all these demands and not knowing how to get rid of the troublesome fellow, I gave him a flat refusal; but that did not deter him from coming very often to partake of my repast of rice and couscous. This man was continually asking the slaves, whether they had any provisions or other articles to sell, a practise by which he and others like him often induced the poor creatures to plunder their masters.
My host sent me, about eleven o’clock in the morning, a plate of well flavoured rice and meat, and about eight in the evening a plate of couscous for my supper. The water for my drink was brackish and luke-warm.
On the 11th and following days, I inspected the town of El-Arawan. It is situated in a hollow, and surrounded by sandy hills, which extend to the west. The streets are wider than those of Timbuctoo, and equally clean. The houses, built in the same manner as at Timbuctoo, are much lower and less solid; for the sand here is not of so clayey a nature. The roofs are flat; instead of the small pieces of wood, which are used in the buildings at Timbuctoo, they here substitute the stalks of a bullrush which grows in the neighbourhood of the town. Thin rafters of ronnier wood support these reeds, which are slightly covered with sand. The magazines are very small. The houses are all of very frail construction, and their number may be five hundred, each containing about six inhabitants, including slaves. Before the doors is sprinkled a yellow kind of sand, which is found by digging to a certain depth.
El-Arawan, like Timbuctoo, possesses no resources of its own. It is the entrepot of the salt of Toudeyni, which is exported to Sansanding, on the banks of the Dhioliba. Its soil is even more barren than that of Timbuctoo. As far as the eye can reach, no trace of vegetation is to be perceived. The camels of the numerous caravans have to go a great distance for forage. Wood is so scarce, that nothing is burned but camel-dung, which is carefully collected by the slaves. This is the only fuel used even for cooking. The Moors collect their camels every six days, in order to take them to drink at the wells, which are in the environs of the town. These wells are about sixty paces deep. They employ a camel to draw up the bucket, which is made of hide. A pulley is also used. The water of these wells is brackish, warm, and very unwholesome. The springs are numerous. At the depth of four feet from the surface is found a grey sand mixed with a little clay of the same colour. This sand is tolerably firm. At the bottom of the pits there is a very white kind of earth, resembling chalk, of which I carried away a specimen. There are also some black and grey pebbles, and a small quantity of calcareous stones, of which the Moors make a brim round the wells. The place in which they are dug is flat, and surrounded by large hillock of sand. I have often seen the Moors employed in watering their camels. They have a trough of tanned hide, which stands on three supports of twisted wood. For drawing up the water they use a rope made of straw, first damped and beaten and afterwards twisted. Though water when kept in the houses is always exposed to a current of air, it is invariably warm, and consequently very disagreeable for drinking.
Many Moors and negroes, impelled by curiosity, followed me in the streets. Some asked for snuff; in vain did I assure them that I had none, and never used any, they would not relinquish the attack, and they called me christian as the greatest insult they could offer me. Their vociferations were accompanied by threatening gestures. I began to fear that I should lose my temper, and that the affair might become serious. I hastened back to my lodging, into which my assailants followed me. An old Moor took pity on me, and reproached them for their behaviour, assuring them that I was a Musulman and a stranger, and under the protection of Kalif, who would be indignant at my being ill treated. He finally succeeded in dispersing them.
I found a great difference between the inhabitants of this place and those of Timbuctoo, where I had been well received by the Moors. The people of El-Arawan, on the other hand, looked upon me with suspicion. They could not believe, that after having passed my youth among the christians, I should voluntarily forsake their customs and resume those of my kindred. Fortunately for me, some old men more zealous, or credulous, than the rest, declared that God would support me in the way of salvation, since he had inspired me with so astonishing a resolution. They added in Arabic, “Let us thank God, that he has returned among us.”
These disagreeable occurrences induced me to appear more zealous than hitherto. I went regularly to the mosque, but, when I prostrated myself, like the disciples of the prophet, I offered up fervent prayers to God, thus endeavouring to atone for the painful sacrifice of my religion which I was outwardly compelled to make.
El-Arawan is not a place of such active trade as Timbuctoo, whence all provisions for the former place are brought, Sansanding, which is twenty-five days’ journey to the west, being too far distant to afford supplies. I was told, indeed, by several Moors, that the journey occupied a month.
El-Arawan sends, as I have before said, the salt of the mines of Toudeyni to Sansanding and Jamina, by caravans of Moorish merchants, who also carry tobacco, which is cultivated in Tafilet and Zawât.
This town, though inhabited by the Moors of Zawât[16] and the different countries on the banks of the Mediterranean, has no market. I never saw so dull a place. In the interior of the town there are, as at Timbuctoo straw huts for the slaves.
Bousbéhey, of which I have already spoken, is two days’ journey distant from El-Arawan, and the inhabitants of the latter place purchase cattle there, as in all parts of the interior of Africa there are no markets. Each family kills a bullock from time to time and cures the meat, by drying it in the sun. It is eaten with rice or couscous.
Though the great distance of Sansanding does not permit the inhabitants of El-Arawan to go thither for millet, they procure from that place more valuable articles, such as ivory, gold, slaves, wax, honey, the cloths of Soudan, and cured provisions. Rice is also transported thence in small quantities. Cowries, which are the current money of Soudan, do not pass at El-Arawan. There nothing circulates but gold and silver—neat pieces of the value of a mitkhal, in imitation of the money of Morocco. The gold mitkhal increases in value as you approach the coasts.
El-Arawan is the point for the arrival of the caravans from Tafilet, Cape Mogador, Drah, Tawât, and the cities of Aghdâmus and Tripoli. They bring merchandise of European manufacture, such as fire-arms, gunpowder, stuffs, and a few productions of their own countries, as tobacco, dates, &c.
Kalif, who was one of the principal merchants of El-Arawan, was a native of Tawât, and he received from his country merchandise which he sent to the Dhioliba. The caravans which perform this journey are seven days without procuring water; after which they reach the banks of the river, which I was informed is very wide at that part.
I supposed it to be the banks of the lake Débo. At a short distance from this place which is not inhabited, negro villages are met with as far as Sansanding.
In the rainy season, which occurs at the same time as at Timbuctoo the inhabitants of El-Arawan are visited by the Touariks, who come and pitch their tents in the environs of the city, and collect the duties which they impose on traders. These duties are not so exorbitant as at Timbuctoo. The Touariks observe some moderation at El-Arawan, on account of its distance from their country.
The inhabitants of the town are all fanatical Moors; they have numerous slaves, which they purchase at Sansanding, and, notwithstanding the natural brutality of the people, they treat their slaves kindly; they allow them plenty of food, consisting of sangleh, which is eaten with a sauce made of dried baobab leaves, boiled and seasoned with salt or allspice. They also clothe them well. If to the misery incidental to this wretched country were added the bad treatment which slaves experience in some parts of the desert, the poor creatures could not long survive.
An old Moor named Sidi-Boubacar is the chief of El-Arawan; he acts as judge in all the differences which arise among the inhabitants. At his death his son succeeds him. The Mahometan chief levies no duties on the people. He is himself a merchant and possesses considerable herds of camels. In the rainy season, when forage becomes more abundant, the inhabitants use camels’ milk as an article of food.
On the 14th of May, a violent gale blew from the east, which unroofed several of the houses, and raised such a quantity of sand, that it was impossible to keep the doors open. The heat, though there was no sun, was stifling. The air was full of sand, which descended in the night. It would be impossible to express what I suffered during this storm. I was obliged to lie on the ground, with my head enveloped in a pagne, to protect myself from the burning sand, which entered through the chinks in the door. I experienced a continual thirst, and had nothing but warm and brackish water to quench it. This unwholesome drink caused a violent derangement of the stomach, and the heat, rising to a degree I had never before felt, produced a dreadful head-ache.
The slaves, obliged sometimes to walk barefoot on the sand, complained of violent pain, which they were not able to bear long, but which soon compelled them to return home. The Moors stay within doors, keeping a piece of cloth constantly before their lips, to prevent the sand from getting into their mouths. I was unable to comprehend how the mere love of gain could induce these people to live for twelve or fifteen years in such a dreadful country.
The town of Walet, mentioned by Mungo Park, is ten days’ journey W. N. W. of El-Arawan. Some Moors, whom I saw, told me, that no water is to be met with on the road, and that this town carries on a great traffic in salt with Sansanding, Yamina, and Ségo. This last place is five days’ journey to the south; salt, which is its principal article of trade is obtained from the mines of Waden,[17] situated in the great desert, fifteen or eighteen days’ journey north of Walet. This salt is made up in cakes of the same dimensions as those of Toudeyni. The inhabitants keep a great many camels, as well as a few goats and sheep. Walet is situated on a barren soil, not susceptible of cultivation, and the inhabitants buy corn in the Bambara country. I was told that this town is as large as Timbuctoo. I questioned some Moors respecting Tichit, but was unable to obtain any positive information on the subject.
During my stay at El-Arawan the same scorching east wind continually prevailed and obliged me to keep myself within doors, which vexed me not a little.
The caravans which were assembled at El-Arawan prepared to depart in a few days. I looked forward with pleasure to the happy moment when I was to leave this disagreeable country. My host, a zealous Musulman, laid in a supply of provisions for my journey. It was neither to his generosity nor his friendship for me that I owed this attention;—it was purely a sacrifice, which his piety prompted him to make in order to conciliate the favour of the prophet. The provisions consisted of a bag of rice weighing about fifty pounds, a bag of dokhnou of the same weight, and about ten pounds of butter. This was more than sufficient to last me two months. Wishing to make some acknowledgment for the attention of Kalif, I offered him some pieces of silver, a pair of scissors, and a small piece of cloth, the only one I had left. The good Musulman at first affected an unwillingness to accept my presents, saying that I was poor, and that probably the things would be useful to me, and that what he had done for me was solely with the view of serving God. He however put the silver in his pocket, and was apparently much pleased with that sort of money which is very uncommon in this country. He sent my provisions to the tent of Sidi-Aly, a Moor, with whom I was to go to Tafilet. This man, whom Sidi-Abdallahi-Chébir had recommended to me, had received on departing from Timbuctoo ten gold mitkhals (equal to 120 francs) for my expenses in the desert.
A Moor, who was settled at El-Arawan, and with whom I used frequently to converse, made me a present of a skin to enable me to increase my supply of water. He informed me that I should suffer much from thirst on the journey, and that for seven or eight days we should meet with no wells. The description he gave of crossing the desert at this season made me shudder. I thought I should certainly share the fate of the many unfortunate travellers who had perished there. However I rallied my courage, by dwelling on the hope of relating in my native country the result of my observations. I then no longer thought any difficulty insurmontable.
Sidi-Aly, whom I had not seen at Timbuctoo, and to whom Sidi-Abdallahi, my host, had strongly recommended me, gave me extraordinary proofs of his regard. He assured me that he would treat me as his son. He confirmed the report I had previously heard respecting the scarcity of water on the road, and stated that we should have to undergo great privations, but that I must not be disheartened, as he would take care of me, seeing that I was not like the rest, accustomed to the heat of the desert, and could not so well bear the excessive thirst, to which we should often be exposed. This person was looked upon by the Moors as a zealous Musulman. I was assured that he feared God, and that he would act towards me as he had promised. Sidi-Aly always carried in his hand a rosary two feet and a half long, the beads of which were as large as nuts. He never failed, when he met any one in the streets, to cast his eyes piously on the ground, at the same time moving his lips, as if he were muttering a prayer. By this hypocrisy he imposed on me, as he did on others, and I believed that he was as good as he pretended to be; but I was cruelly deceived. Notwithstanding his feigned zeal for religion, the old hypocrite did not keep one of the promises he made me, as will be seen in the sequel.
We left El-Arawan on the 19th of May 1828, at six o’clock in the morning. Aly, my guide, had sent his son to carry my luggage to the place appointed for the rendezvous of the caravan. My host had invited me to share his repast; but as it was not cooked, I was obliged to set off without tasting anything but a little dokhnou and millet. He again recommended me to my guide, and took his leave of me after wishing me a prosperous journey. It was about half past seven, when the caravan began to move to the N. E. I was concerned to see the poor slaves, whom I recognized as having been my companions from Jenné to El-Arawan, running through the sand to overtake the camels, which were in advance.
Our caravan was numerous: it consisted of fourteen hundred camels, laden with the various productions of the Soudan; as gold, slaves, ivory, gum, ostrich-feathers, and cloth in the piece and made into dresses. In leaving El-Arawan the road leads over a sandy country, with but few traces of vegetation. After proceeding six miles in this direction, we arrived at Mourat, a small village, containing five houses like those of El-Arawan, and built of sand bricks. At Mourat, the sons of Sidi-Boubacar, chief of El-Arawan, keep a school, where the children of the inhabitants of the town study the Koran. Mourat appeared to me even more gloomy than El-Arawan; the uniformity of the soil is broken only by a few plants, which are eaten by the camels, and which are buried beneath the sand, drifted by the east wind. On leaving Mourat, the traveller comes to some deep wells filled with brackish water. Here our caravan stopped and took a hearty draught, for we were now about to enter upon a part of the desert where we should find no water for the space of eight days. In the midst of these vast deserts, the wells of Mourat, surrounded by fourteen hundred camels, and by the four hundred men of our caravan, who were crowded round them, presented the moving picture of a populous town; it was a perfect tumult of men and beasts. On one side were camels laden with ivory, gum, and bales of goods of all sorts; on the other, camels carrying on their backs negroes, men, women, and children, who were on their way to be sold at the Morocco market; and further on, men prostrate on the ground, invoking the prophet.
This spectacle touched and excited my feelings, and in imitation of the devout Musulmans, I fell on my knees; but it was to pray to the God of the Christians: with my eyes turned to the north, towards my country, my relations, and friends, I besought the Almighty to remove from my path the obstacles which had stopped so many other travellers; in the ardour of my wishes, I imagined that my prayer was granted, and that I should be the first European who had set out from the south of Africa, to cross this ocean of sand, and succeeded in the undertaking. The thought electrified me; and while a gloom hung on all other faces, mine was radiant with hope and joy. Full of these sentiments I hastened to mount my camel, and to penetrate fearlessly into the deserts which separate the fertile Soudan from the regions of northern Africa. I felt as if I was mounting the breach of an impregnable fort, and that it was incumbent upon me to sustain the honour of my nation, by divesting myself of every kind of fear and braving this new peril.
A boundless horizon was already expanded before us, and we could distinguish nothing but an immense plain of shining sand, and over it a burning sky. At this sight the camels uttered long moans, the slaves became sullen and silent, and, with their eyes turned towards heaven, they appeared to be tortured with regret for the loss of their country, and with the recollection of the verdant plains from which avarice and cruelty had snatched them.
CHAPTER XXIII.
Violence of the east winds — Pillars of sand — Scarcity of water — Deplorable situation of the caravan — Hills of loose sand — Rocks of granite — Wells of Telig — Toudeyni, rich salt mines — Thistle of the desert — Vexations and persecutions of the Moors, their intolerance — Wells of Cramès — Well of Trasas or Trarzas — Trajacant Moors.
We continued our route to the north a little west, through a district uniformly arid, interspersed with little sand-hills, in a direction from east to west. The east wind had now subsided, and the heat was excessive on account of the calm. We were tormented with thirst, for we only drank once in the course of the day. I derived some benefit from the care I took, after the example of the Moors, to fasten a strip of cotton cloth over my eyes, and another over my mouth to keep off the burning air which parched my lungs.
In the course of the day, we had passed over grey and red gravel in many places. Towards half past five we halted on unvaried sand; and a large calabash of water mixed with dokhnou was brought to us. We had eaten nothing all day, and yet we felt no need of food; for the dokhnou is very nourishing, and the burning thirst with which we were tormented had taken away every thing like hunger. A Moor was sent to take care of the camels, which were wandering here and there in search of a few blades of grass.
About ten at night, we had some rice cooked, which we ate with melted butter; but it made me very thirsty. I begged for a little water; but old Aly, my guide, who had remained behind, no doubt that he might drink as much as he liked himself without being seen, came up at the moment they were preparing to give me the water, and peremptorily countermanded it. This was only a prelude to the annoyance he afterwards caused me.
On the 20th of May, at five in the morning, we continued our course to the north, the country being of the same nature, as that which we traversed the day before. About ten o’clock we halted in a place which was absolutely bare. The heat was beginning to be excessive, and we hastened to stretch the covering (a tanned sheep-skin which served for a tent) under which we collected for the rest of the day. We had each a calabash of water containing about three bottles which we swallowed at a draught; but this tepid water only filled the stomach without quenching our thirst: I would fain have drunk oftener, and a smaller quantity at a time, but the Moors who presided over the distribution of the water would not hear of this new arrangement, and adhered to the old practice.
The poor negro slaves, accustomed to a fertile country, suffered from this way of life, but they were no worse off than the rest of us; we were all on an equality.
It was not yet noon, and we were to have nothing to eat or drink till five in the evening. The heat was excessive and the east wind raised a great quantity of sand, as it had done most days; we suffered dreadfully. At the moment when I was thinking of nothing but the present calamity, old Aly came to inform me that the water-skins which Sidi-Abdallahi of Timbuctoo had given me were not large enough, and that our provision of water would not last long if we were not extremely economical. The rogue was right; for whilst I had three skins for my share, he and his companions had only two small ones a-piece, and there were nine persons to be supplied for a week. I was certainly entitled to forbid their making use of my stock; but what should I have been the better if I had? they would have drunk the water, and told me the east wind had dried it up. I answered therefore that I was obliged to Aly for his information, and that I should take his advice. During this conversation, which was followed up on my part by many painful reflections, the east wind increased; it was no longer a time for talking of one’s affairs, but every one lay down to sleep, as we intended to travel during the night. My eyes never closed, and I lay wide awake. The east wind continued till sunset and then changed to the west; though its force was abated, it hardly incommoded us less, for it still blew up a great quantity of sand.
At five o’clock we had a calabash of dokhnou, and then lay down again till nine, when we started. We marched all night; and the calm was stifling, for the west wind had ceased. The country through which we travelled was quite level and absolutely barren. The slow and unvaried step of the camel made me drowsy. I laid my head upon my bag, and slept a little.
On the 21st, at ten o’clock in the morning, we halted. The burning east wind which was beginning to blow rendered the heat insufferable, and the scorching sand found its way into our eyes, in spite of the precautions which we took to exclude it. We pitched our tents, and tepid water was distributed, which we thought delicious though it had little effect in quenching our thirst; after we had drunk it, we stretched ourselves on the sand to repose. Notwithstanding all the precautions I had taken, the heat was so intense and my thirst so tormenting, that I found if impossible to get any sleep; my throat was on fire and my tongue clave to the roof of my mouth. I lay as if expiring on the sand, waiting with the greatest impatience for the moment when we were to have our next supply of water; I thought of nothing but water—rivers, streams, rivulets, were the only ideas that presented themselves to my mind during this burning fever; in my impatience I cursed my companions, the country, the camels, and for anything I know the sun himself, who did not make sufficient speed to reach the horizon.
The spot where we were encamped was frightfully arid, there was not a single leaf to refresh the eye, and nature presented her most terrific aspect.
The camels scattered over the plain, the profound solitude, the silence of the desert, produced painful impressions, which it is difficult to describe; the poor animals, exhausted with fatigue, were lying near the tents, with their heads between their legs, quietly waiting for the signal of departure; it was given at last. At half past four Sidi-Aly who had undertaken to provide our rations, threw a few handfuls of dokhnou into a large calabash, and poured water upon it; he then mixed the whole with his hands, thrusting his arms in up to the elbows—a sight which would have disgusted any one less hungry than ourselves, for water was so precious that old Aly’s hands had not been washed for many days. Though the beverage was luke-warm, and very dirty, we drank heartily of it, and with the greatest delight.
When the Moors had quenched their thirst, they went to look after the baggage, and to see that none of the straps had given way. In spite of this examination, which is repeated at every halting-place, the camels are often galled by their loads, and these hurts are not easily healed; the Moors apply fire to the wounds, and often scarify the neighbouring parts and the tumours themselves, to let out the blood and matter; they cut away the dead flesh, and cover the wound with salt to prevent mortification. When a camel is ill, or ready to die of exhaustion, the Moors give it a little water, and for this purpose they use a wooden funnel which they apply to its nostrils; this is the best method of watering a camel, because the animal, though naturally docile, shakes its head about and spills the water on all sides, when it is applied to its mouth. It is only in cases of extremity however that they have recourse to this practice.
Sometimes it was immediately after doctoring the wounds of his camels that Sidi-Aly came and mixed our beverage without washing his hands; if by chance he did wash them, he gave the water he had used for this purpose to his poor slave to drink! I cannot describe the horror and disgust which I felt at this man’s contempt for his fellow-creatures.
At five o’clock in the afternoon, we pursued our course towards the north; at ten we stopped for prayer, and having discharged this pious duty, we received a ration of water, very insufficient however to quench our thirst; for the further we advanced into the desert, the more intense became the heat. In the night I was almost consumed with thirst; but I could get no water. I doubled myself up upon my camel, whose motion lulled me and made me feel drowsy, but I could get no sleep.
On the 22d of May, at nine in the morning, the caravan halted; we were all exhausted by thirst; the east wind was hotter than ever, and our water was rapidly diminishing, for the wind caused a great evaporation by drying the skins; and a great deal of water filtered through the pores. As I lay on the sand, I ruminated on the possibility of alleviating the horrors of our condition; I desired Sidi-Aly to buy two or three more skins if any could be found, and I gave him for this purpose some goods which I had received from the Moors of Timbuctoo. He replied that nobody would sell them at any price; which I believed, but I suffered too much not to insist upon making the experiment. He then proposed to send one of the men belonging to the caravans to the nearest wells which he said was the best way of getting water to make sangleh to recruit our exhausted strength. I thought this a good plan, and agreed to it with pleasure; but Sidi-Aly, who was not the most scrupulous of Musulmans, never made the least inquiry for such a person; he took into his own possession what I had given him to pay the messenger, and sent his son to the well. This he would have done whether I had paid or not, for as I afterwards found it was the custom to do so, and I saw the Moors set off from all parts of the caravan for the same purpose.
My thirst was so intense that I determined, in order to appease it, to go into the neighbouring tents, and see if I could obtain a few drops of water out of charity. With my rosary in my hand, I went from tent to tent, to beg a little water “for the love of God;” I did not find many charitable souls, but it was not a favourable moment for the experiment, for we were all suffering alike. My useless fatigue, and the impatience it occasioned, augmented my torments, and when I got back to my tent, I fell on the ground senseless. The Moors who are themselves the most importunate beggars in the world, do not like to be asked for any thing. Sidi-Aly told me that I ought not to ask other people for water, that it was troublesome; I found out also that he boasted amongst his friends of the kindness he showed me, and said that he was grieved at the privation I endured. A lying hypocrite! he took no better care of me for that. Many of the Moors thought that he had brought me with him out of pure compassion, and, far from undeceiving them, he took care to confirm them in this error; but when they questioned me on the subject, I told them the state of the case, and they then assured me that I had paid too much to my guide. I knew that full well; but what could I do? only resign myself to my fate.
About five o’clock in the afternoon, after having quenched our thirst, we continued our course to the north, and traversed a district interspersed with grey quartz rocks streaked with white: at midnight we ascended some sand-hills.
On the 23rd, at ten in the morning, we halted on sandy ground, but rather more solid than what we had crossed the day before, and interspersed with rocks of rose-coloured and black granite. Our situation was still the same; the east wind blew with violence; and far from affording us any refreshment, it only threatened to bury us under the mountains of sand which it raised, and what was still more alarming, our water diminished rapidly from the extreme drought which it occasioned. Nobody suffered more intensely from thirst than the poor little slaves, who were crying for water. Exhausted by their sufferings and their lamentations, these unhappy creatures fell on the ground, and seemed to have no power to rise; but the Moors did not suffer them to continue there long when travelling. Insensible to the sufferings which childhood is so little fitted to support, these barbarians dragged them along with violence, beating them incessantly, till they had overtaken the camels, which were already at a distance.
Indeed, no person was privileged; even the Moors, whose turn it was to walk by the camels, and who, partly to amuse themselves and partly to encourage the animals, sang to them as they marched by their side, were under the same law as those who were riding, and never tasted water except when it was distributed to the whole caravan. I thought I could perceive nevertheless that Sidy-Aly had under his dress a small bottle, like our hunting bottles, and that the old fox made use of it every now and then in secret to refresh himself, without any regard for his brethren.
What distressed us most during this horrible day was the pillars of sand, which threatened every moment to bury us in their course. One of the largest of these pillars crossed our camp, overset all the tents, and whirling us about like straws, threw us one upon another in the utmost confusion; we knew not where we were, and could distinguish nothing at the distance of a foot. The sand wrapped us in darkness like a thick fog, and heaven and earth seemed confounded and blended into one.
In this commotion of nature, the consternation was general; nothing was heard on all sides but lamentation, and most of my companions recommended themselves to heaven, crying out with all their might, “There is no God but God, and Mahomet is his prophet!” Through these shouts and prayers, and the roaring of the wind, I could distinguish at intervals, the low plaintive moan of the camels, who were as much alarmed as their masters, and more to be pitied, as they had not tasted food for four days. Whilst this frightful tempest lasted, we remained stretched on the ground, motionless, dying of thirst, burned by the heat of the sand, and buffetted by the wind. We suffered nothing however from the sun, whose disk, almost concealed by the cloud of sand, appeared dim and shorn of its beams. We durst not use our water, for fear the wells should be dry, and I know not what would have become of us if, about three o’clock, the wind had not abated. As soon as it became calm, we prepared to set off, and the dokhnou was mixed and distributed. It is difficult to describe with what impatience we longed for this moment; to enhance the pleasure which I expected from my portion, I thrust my head into the vessel, and sucked up the water in long draughts. When I had drunk, I had an unpleasant sensation all over me, which was quickly succeeded by fresh thirst.
About half past four in the afternoon, we left the place where we had experienced this terrible hurricane, and proceeded on our way towards the north. The camels walked slowly and with effort, for they were almost exhausted; the poor beasts looked jaded and dejected. The sight of this numerous caravan, destitute of water, and condemned to die of thirst, scattered over the arid land, was truly dismal. The camels gently shaking their heads, or ruminating, took their course towards the north, without requiring any direction. We advanced over a sandy soil covered with rocks, rising about five feet above its surface. Wrapped in my own reflections, I thought of the wisdom of divine Providence, which has anticipated all our wants. What a masterpiece of nature’s workmanship, said I, is the camel! If it were not for this wonderful animal, who could exist for a week without food, how could these deserts be traversed? No mortal would dare attempt it, or if any were rash enough to venture upon such an undertaking, certain death would be the reward of his temerity. These reflections are trite; but they were natural in the situation in which I was placed, and I wish to give an account of my thoughts as well as of my sensations and sufferings.
On the 24th of May, at nine in the morning, we halted in as barren a spot as usual. The night had been calm, and the heat stifling; the fatigue we endured was augmented by the quantity of sand which fell upon us all the time we were travelling. We continued all day in a state of impatient expectation mingled with fear; the Moors, seeing our dejection and sufferings, tried to encourage us with the hope of the speedy arrival of the messengers who had been sent in search of water: vain hope! none of them returned. Despair was general; to keep up our spirits, a small quantity of water was distributed, and we were told that the delay of our messengers was not occasioned by their finding no water, but by their finding it in small quantities, so that it took longer to fill the skins; that they would have returned immediately if they had met with no water. Alas! this was a mistake, as will shortly appear. That we might not lose time in uncertain expectation, we continued our journey towards the north, at about four o’clock in the afternoon, over a firmer soil than we had lately crossed, and equally covered with quartz; we proceeded all night in silence; nobody slept however, for we were all too thirsty. The Moors who drove the camels were mute, and relieved one another oftener than usual.
On the 25th, at nine in the morning, we halted in a plain of hard sand, producing a few herbs, which were speedily devoured by the camels. This plain was interspersed with hills of coarse red sand mixed with gravel. We had now only a skin and a half of water remaining for eleven persons, we had indeed more than that number with us, and the allowance was every time more and more scanty; we suffered beyond all expression. After drinking a few drops, we lay down to wait for those who were gone in search of a fresh supply. About ten in the morning the poor wretches arrived half dead with thirst, and as soon as they had been relieved, as far as our small store permitted, they told us that they had had great difficulty at first in finding the well; and that when they had reached it they were dreadfully disappointed to find it quite dry; they were by this time so tortured with thirst, that they resolved to kill a camel, that they might divide amongst them the water contained in its stomach! a poor resource, for the water was not pure, and there was very little of it. The blood of the animal would have been a great refreshment, but they durst not drink it for fear of infringing the laws of the Koran.
About four in the afternoon, after having drunk the rest of our water, we were again on our way, more thirsty than ever, and proceeding slowly towards the north, in the hope of reaching the wells of Telig by the morning of the 26th. At nine in the evening we stopped for prayer as usual; a Moor who accompanied us gave us each a little water, which we received most gratefully; it relieved us very much. The night was very hot like the preceding. About ten we turned for three miles to the east, along the foot of some high hills of moving sand.
On the 26th, at five in the morning, we passed near some large masses of white earth, which looked at a distance like houses in ruins; in this part is found a very fine grey sand. The camels, though laden, lay down to roll themselves, which raised a terrible dust; and the Moors had infinite difficulty in preventing them from doing so. I also observed in this place gravel of the same colour, and further on I found veins of white earth, of the same nature as the masses already mentioned. About three miles to the west we saw some sand-hills, covered with granite, the colour of wine-lees; it is very brittle, and appears to lie in strata three or four feet thick.
We travelled the whole morning in an extensive plain, enclosed by these hills; the soil was very hard, covered with rocks and red and black granite, in flaky strata like slate. About eight in the morning, after climbing a high hill, we descended into a sort of basin formed by hills of red granite; the chain extends from east to west; the highest point that we passed over was three or four hundred feet high. In this valley, the soil of which is composed of coarse yellow sand, are the wells of Telig. We found these much wished-for wells filled with sand; which the Moors immediately fell to work to clear out; the poor camels which had already become unmanageable, from knowing that they were near water, were then permitted to drink: when they were driven away by the whip, they ran off to a little distance, and came crowding again round the well, ruminating, and laying their heads on the damp sand which had been thrown out of it. The first water we drew up was very black and muddy; but, in spite of the sand which it contained, the camels fought for it with fury. These wells, which afford plenty of brackish water, are not more than three or four feet deep.
When the water was fit to drink, I went and thrust my head in amongst the camels to drink with them; a Moor permitted me to drink out of his leather bucket, for we had not stopped to unpack calabashes, which were our usual drinking vessels. To the east of these wells, where the ground is lowest, we saw the ruins of some houses built of bricks of white clay; they are almost buried in the sand which the wind drives over them: further on in the same direction, there is a great deal of white-veined earth like that with which these houses were constructed; it bears some resemblance to lime.
The whole day was employed in watering the camels, who seemed as if they would never be satisfied, and quarrelled for the last drop in the trough. I was forced to remain in the sun, for the Moors were so busy with their camels, that they never thought of pitching a tent. The east wind, which blew violently, rendered the day very unpleasant, particularly by the clouds of dust which it threw over us. As water was now abundant, we had a little rice cooked, which we ate with butter; it was the first meal we had taken since the evening of the 19th.
On the 27th, many of our companions went to Toudeyni, which, as far as I could learn from our travellers, is a little less than half a day’s journey to the west of the wells of Telig. From this little town is procured the salt which is brought from Timbuctoo to Jenné, and thence dispersed through all the Soudan. The salt mines, as I was informed, are three feet and a half or four feet below the surface of the ground; the salt is in thick strata, and is brought out in blocks, after which it is split into cakes of the size I have already described. These mines are the wealth of the country; they are worked by negro slaves, superintended by Moors, who live entirely upon rice and millet, brought from Timbuctoo, and cooked with camels’ flesh dried in the sun. The water which they drink filters through the salt, and is extremely brackish; to render it more palatable they put dokhnou and honey into it; and they also improve this detestable beverage by mixing with it a sort of cheese reduced to powder, which I have mentioned above, and which is nothing but curd dried in the sun.
On the 27th, about three in the evening, after having filled our skins with water, we broke up our camp, and journeyed to the N. W. hoping we might meet with some vegetation for the poor camels, which wanted food the more, for having quenched their thirst. About five in the afternoon, we halted on a tract of loose sand, of a grey colour, where we found a few scattered patches of grass, which the camels devoured with eagerness, harsh as it was, as they had not eaten scarcely any thing for a week.
Just before we left the wells of Telig, we had been forced to kill two of these animals, which could go no further, and were dying of fatigue; the flesh was distributed among all who wished for it, and we had some for our supper. Part of it was boiled, and the rice which was cooked with it contracted the odious taste of the camels’ flesh, which I disliked extremely. The Moors ate this meat with the greatest avidity, and said that it was excellent, but I was not at all of their opinion, for I thought it very tough, and the little I ate disagreed with me; this might however be owing in part to the brackish water I had drunk. This was nevertheless one of the most comfortable nights I had passed since I had been in the desert; I lay down by a patch of grass, and the heat seemed to me less overwhelming than on the preceding days, which I ascribed to the vicinity of the wells.
The soil was covered with grey quartz, striped with a dirty white, mixed with which were several kinds of small gravel.
On the 28th at sun-rise, we were on our way in a northwesterly direction amongst quartz rocks; here and there upon the ruins of sand grew a few withered herbs which the camels browsed as they passed. About ten we crossed a soil covered with small black gravel, and varied by sandhills extending from east to west; this sand was harder and yellower than what we had seen the day before; in some places we found grey gravel and several rocks of black and grey granite. At half past ten we halted to rest our camels, which were all very weary, and they were fortunate enough to find a few thorny plants[18] which they amused themselves with cropping. These plants have short and flexible leaves; the thorn is short but very hard; by the wise providence of Nature this plant, the only resource of the animals of the desert, has the property of remaining green all the year round, in spite of the burning east winds which so frequently prevail; the camels though not very delicate would refuse the dry leaves. This plant is very tenacious of life, throws out long roots on the surface of the ground, and does not grow to the height of more than eighteen inches; it is found in sandy places, and I have generally observed that it is most abundant on the west side of the hills. The roots are thick and serve for fuel; the Moors use it to cook their provisions, and at sun-set the slaves went to collect it, to boil our scanty portion of rice with water and salt, to which they added melted butter for sauce; this was our frugal supper. My portion was set apart for me in a little calabash: for the Moors did not chuse to eat with me after they had discovered that I had had the scurvy; they held me in utter abhorrence. In spite of the pains which I took to study their habits and customs, they observed that I could never eat rice as they did, making it into a little ball in the hand and tossing it into the mouth; when they meant to insult me, therefore, they always told me that I ate like a christian.
Sidi-Aly, my guide, was a short man, about four feet high, with a wrinkled face, black mischievous-looking eyes, a little grey beard, a rather long chin, and a large mouth, which rendered him still more hideous: this man ate by himself that he might appear to be a person of importance. Thrusting his dirty hands, the chapped skin of which resembled a crocodile’s scales, into a leather bottle, to take out some butter to put into our rice, he stirred our victuals about in this cleanly manner. Notwithstanding all the fine promises of protection which he had made me at first, I soon found how little he was to be trusted. He refused me the necessaries of life, and especially water, although he had been handsomely paid beforehand; the slaves were better off, for he did not prevent them from helping themselves when they wished—thanks to the wells at Telig however, there was no longer a scarcity. Fortunately the heat did not appear to me so great, nor was my thirst so tormenting as heretofore; whether because we were in the neighbourhood of water, or because we were now advancing to the north, I know not; whatever was the cause, I enjoyed some alleviation of my sufferings: a mortification, however, but of a different nature was in store for me.
The Moors of Aly’s party, seeing that he had ceased to behave respectfully to me, were no longer under any restraint; they gave me ridiculous nicknames, calling me Gageba, from the name of the camel I rode on, and I was constantly exposed to their insult and raillery. Encouraged by my silence and patience, they set their slaves to follow their example, and the slaves were delighted to torment me; they talked on no other subject; they were continually ridiculing the form of my face; and they carried their ill-nature so far as to throw stones at me when I turned my back. All this persecution was at the instigation of their masters, who often supplied them with branches of thorns to thrust into my face; at other times they took little pieces of wood, and proposed that the slaves should drive them through my nose, as they do to the camels. These slaves, encouraged by the visible satisfaction of their masters, collected around me, laughing violently, capering, dancing, and showing me first the branch of thorns and then the piece of wood which they had been ordered to run through my nose. In this way I was tormented all the way from Telig to Tafilet. The Moors would often say with contempt, “Look at this slave; I would rather have him than thee, so thou mayst think how little I value thee.” This insolence was accompanied by immoderate laughter. When I was eating, these boors would come about me opening their mouths as wide as they could; then, with hideous grimaces they thrust their fingers into them to mimic me, and called out at last: “He is like a christian!”
I swallowed my vexation, trembling at the thought of what such men would do to me, if they discovered my real sentiments; they would have made a martyr of me; and I could not but think of the tortures which poor Major Laing must have suffered from beings who were still more ferocious. How I longed for the moment when I should reach Tafilet, and get rid of my tormentors. I had absolutely nothing left but the clothes I had on, and a new coussabe which I owed to the generosity of my Timbuctoo host, besides a padlock which secured the bag that contained my notes: not a day passed that these did not excite the cupidity of my companions; when I asked for water they said: “Give us thy new dress and thy padlock, and thou shalt have something to drink.” They purposely left me in want that I might give them what they wished; but I had courage to resist and they obtained nothing.
The wells were now nearer together, and as we came to them more frequently, we could travel part of the day. When the heat was excessive, during the journey, those who wanted to drink were allowed to have water; on these occasions they pointed at me and said to one another: “Do not let us give him any, till he has promised us something.” I disdained to have recourse to entreaty, and bore both hunger and thirst rather than ask for any thing at their hands; so I turned my head away, and pretended not to hear what they said. Thirst at last compelled me to apply to Sidi-Aly, who muttered when he ordered them to give me water; while I was drinking it he imitated the humming noise made to induce the camels to drink. He durst not refuse me the water for his own sake; for the other Moors in the caravan, who were not his associates, would have been indignant; in their presence he always pretended great kindness for me, and compassion for the sufferings which I had endured in the desert. It was impossible that he could altogether deceive them, for, notwithstanding the abundance of water which we had since we left Telig, I was often obliged to apply to the other Moors in the caravan when I wanted drink: I was also driven out of our tent many times by the rudeness of my tormentors, and took shelter with my neighbours, who were much amused with my conversation, and collected around me, to question me about my escape from the christians, their manners and customs; they asked me also whether I had been ill-treated by my white master. I always took care, as much as I could, to counteract the impression which they all have, that Musulmans are ill-treated amongst us, an idea which proceeds from their intolerant system.
They all showed me their guns and inquired where they were made; and when I told them that they came from France, I observed that they thought them the more valuable: accordingly, if I wanted to flatter a Moor I told him that his gun was of French manufacture, and out of gratitude for the pleasure which I afforded him, he commonly offered me a share of his dokhnou and water.
On the 29th, at six in the morning, we proceeded northward. The soil over which we passed was covered with quartz. About nine o’clock in the morning, we halted in a place where we found some traces of vegetation amidst the rocks. One of the Moors took water in his leather bag, and went to tend the camels; the others were engaged in examining and weighing their gold; they commonly hide it as I have already mentioned, in pieces of rag, on which they put a mark denoting the quantity, and the person to whom it belongs; for this gold is often the proceeds of goods entrusted to them by merchants, when they leave Tafilet.
The camel upon which I rode was laden with ostrich-feathers only. That it might be the less fatigued with the journey, I was never allowed to mount it while it was on its knees; one of the Moors was commissioned by Sidi-Aly to help me to mount; and, for the reasons above stated, this Moor was very ill-natured, and took every opportunity of playing me a trick which might raise a laugh amongst his companions at my expense. At nightfall, rice was cooked for our supper. We had nothing before that but a little dokhnou and water to refresh us; as the roots of this plant were scarce, the slaves were sent to pick up camel’s dung for fuel; though the wind quickly effaces their footsteps, it is always easy to track them by the great quantity of their excrement.
At ten in the evening, we broke up, and proceeded towards the N. W. The soil, which was as unvaried as ever, was covered on the surface by quartz. The night was calm, and the heat stifling.
On the 30th of May, we halted at eleven in the morning, and found some herbage, which supplied the camels with food during that day and part of the succeeding night.
On the 31st, at two in the morning, we continued our journey in the same direction. The soil was sandy, and covered with hills of loose yellow sand. In crossing the desert, I perceived, at a distance, immense tracts, which had the appearance of rivers or lakes, with islands of sand rising in the midst of them; they presented themselves to the eye, in the horizon of the desert, as places where one might quench one’s thirst. This prospect broke for a time the uniformity of these vast deserts; on approaching, I was cruelly disappointed, for the water vanished, and I saw nothing but loose sand where I had hoped to quench my thirst. This illusion only rendered my situation more dreadful, when I was consumed with thirst, and saw the sea receding before me as by enchantment. It is impossible to form any correct idea of a mirage without having seen one.
Towards noon we halted; the burning heat was augmented by a scorching wind from the east. My thirst was excessive, but I had no means of quenching it; my companions told me, to comfort me, that we should soon come to wells. In fact, the wells of Cramès are in this part of the desert; and we hoped to find water there; but alas! they were dry. These wells are situated near a chain of hills extending from N. N. W. towards south. At intervals, we came to a few tufts of herbage; the only trace of vegetation which is to be found here.
We pitched our tents, and sheltered ourselves under them from the burning wind; we had a very short allowance of water dealt out to us, on account of the impossibility of procuring more. The soil in this part is composed of hard sand, mingled with gravel; the east wind blew with such violence, that all our tents were overturned. About sunset, we had an alarm; the camel-drivers at a distance from the camp, saw some Moors, whom they took for banditti; they came to us, calling out, “To arms! to arms!” The whole camp was immediately on the alert; every one flew to arms, and hastened to meet the supposed enemy. I saw some of our party tremble, which made me presume that the danger was great. No person was left in the camp besides three or four old marabouts, the slaves and myself; they fell forthwith to prayers, and gave me a little water and a piece of camel’s flesh, I suppose to propitiate Heaven. For my part, I was not less uneasy than the Moors; I speculated sorrowfully upon what would be our lot, if we lost our camels, our only resource in the desert. We shall die in this horrid country, thought I, for we are too distant to receive help from any quarter; and as a climax to misfortunes, our provision of water is exhausted. In fact, a few of the camels had returned, but the greater number were grazing out of the camp. In the course of an hour, I beheld, to my great satisfaction, our intrepid warriors returning; and they informed us, with an air of triumph, that the robbers had disappeared. All the evening the camp was in a tumult; and there was a long deliberation what was to be done for want of water. It was an object to set off at night to avoid the heat of the day; but our prudent companions were afraid of being attacked on their way; it was even suggested, that the robbers might have taken possession of the wells, at which we were to arrive the next day. Sentinels were appointed, and a watch was kept for a mile round the camp.
On the 1st of June, at five in the morning, we prepared to continue our course to the north. Our water-bags were now dry, for we had supplied our last night’s sentinels with water. All the forenoon we were travelling over a barren soil, which was dreary to look at; it was composed of very hard sand, covered with much grey gravel, and small, flat, sharp-edged, black stones. I perceived, which was rather unusual, a number of small tracks of former caravans, and which the winds had not had the power to efface, because the soil is hard and stony.
I shall here relate a conversation which passed in my presence between Sidi-Molut, a Trajacant Moor, and Sidi-Body, associates of Sidi-Aly, my guide, and some of my greatest tormentors; the conversation turned upon the number of slaves they supposed the Europeans to possess— just as they suppose that all the christians, of whom they know nothing but the names, are of one nation and subject to one chief. In this persuasion, Sidi-Molut related that the sultan of Morocco had made an agreement with the sultan of the christians for the exchange of prisoners of both sexes; and that, by this treaty, a christian was to be exchanged for ten Musulmans, or a thousand piastres. The moment Body heard that the price of a christian slave was fixed at this sum, he interrupted Sidi-Molut, and said: “Well, we must sell Sidi-Abdallahi,” pointing at me with his finger. The other replied that I was not a christian but a Musulman, and that a Musulman was worth all the gold in the world. I could not refrain from darting a look of contempt at Body; and I even told him I saw plainly, that if he could he would sell me, the sooner the better, without any respect for his religion. He did not seem to pay attention to what I said; but Molut looked at me with a smile and said: “Body is a rogue, is not he Abdallahi?”
The soil over which we travelled in the afternoon was covered with hills of loose yellow sand; we saw some vegetables, but at long intervals; the heat was excessive, and again increased the pangs of thirst. At last, about two in the afternoon, we halted near the wells of Trasas or Trarzas, situated in a plain surrounded by hills of yellow sand. These wells, which are numerous, are seven or eight feet deep; the water is salt and most disagreeable.
Here we found some Trajacant Moors, the very people whom we had descried the day before, and who had alarmed us so much; we had occasioned them equal alarm, and it was for this reason that they had not halted at the wells of Cramès. The wells of Trasas were filled with sand, but the Trajacants had cleared out two of them. In this plain, the surface of which is composed of hard grey sand, we found some lumps of salt, and near the place where we watered our beasts, several houses built with bricks of this substance. The Moors informed me, that there was formerly a large village in this place, belonging to their tribe, and that the inhabitants used to work the Trasa salt mines, and carried on considerable commerce in this article with the Soudan. They had many camels, as I learnt from the same authority; but the village had been destroyed by the Tafilet Moors. It is, nevertheless, very probable, that this village was voluntarily abandoned by the inhabitants, who might be discouraged by the great difficulty of finding fodder for their beasts, and grain for themselves, and also by the annoyance of being always forced to drink salt water.
As the Trajacants had taken the trouble to clear the wells, we had nothing to do but to profit by their labour; and to reward them, Sidi-Aly and Sidi-Molut joined to give them a good supper.
As our tent was not pitched, I took shelter under that of the Trajacants. I found them drinking dokhnou, and talking over the adventures of their journey; the moment they saw me, they perceived that I was not an African; their first look announced their ill-will, and one of them asked me who I was. A Moor of our caravan who happened to be with me, spared me the trouble of answering; he took the affair into his own hands, and related, without any omission, the fiction which I had industriously circulated, and which was now received as truth amongst all those who knew me. They afterwards criticised my countenance, which did not seem to them to possess the genuine Arab character, though I was by this time exceedingly dark; but my complaint had entirely disfigured me. The Trajacants asked me many questions about the christians, and made me repeat a verse of the Koran which I had learnt by heart; they afterwards drank by turns, and then poured salt water upon what was left in the vessel, and asked me to drink.
On the 2d in the morning, Aly sent two of his Moors to look out for fodder; they went a great distance, and returned in the evening with two little bundles of straw, which were given to the animals, and immediately devoured. Sidi-Aly asked me to go to seek food for my camel; I replied that he might go himself, and I went to the tent of two Wadnoun marabouts. These men were very kind, and censured Sidi-Aly’s conduct towards me without reserve. All this day was employed in watering the beasts, and in laying in a stock of water for ourselves. The salt water penetrated our skins and ran out at the seams, in spite of all we could do. Some of the Trajacants set off before us.
On the 3rd, at five in the morning, we proceeded to the N. W. first crossing a chain of hills, and then travelling over a soil composed of black gravel, with flat, sharp-edged stones. We halted about half past eleven in a plain, in which were a few thorny plants for the camels to feed on. As we had plenty of water, we boiled a little rice with some morsels of camel’s flesh, which had been dried in the sun, and were as hard as leather. After this savoury repast, we lay down on the ground by our baggage, to rest.
On the 4th, at two in the morning, we prepared for departure, and directed our course N. N. W. till towards eleven; we travelled at first over very hard sand, and then crossed a chain of hills stretching from E. to W. About two in the afternoon, we halted, very much fatigued, because we had had to ascend the hills of loose sand amongst which we had encamped over night. I have observed that fodder is more abundant in these hilly tracts than it is elsewhere. I looked in vain for shells on these mountains; a search which was suggested by the idea that the sea may formerly have covered the site of these immense deserts.
CHAPTER XXIV.
Wells of Amoul-Gragim — Enormous serpents — High sand-hills called Helk — Wells of Amoul-Taf — Hills of various-coloured granite — Wells of el-Ekseif; very good water — Wells called Marabouty, el-Guedea, Mayara, and Sibicia — High and steep mountains, defiles and precipices — A severe fall — Encampment of Sidi-Aly —El-Harib — The Berbers — Tatta — Description of the country of el-Harib, customs; the tribes who inhabit it.
On the 5th of June, at three o’clock in the morning, we continued to ascend lofty downs of loose sand; our direction was northerly: the western side of these downs was covered with thorny plants, which served the camels for food. The poor animals moved with so much difficulty, that our progress was slow and painful; we advanced but a mile an hour.
Towards noon, having climbed to a great elevation, we found ourselves on an extensive plain of very hard grey sand: we halted near the wells of Amoul-Gragim; which, like the preceding, were filled up; these are only seven or eight feet deep; their water is muddy and salt, but less disagreeable to the taste than that of Trasas.
This night seemed cooler than those which had preceded it: my rest was disturbed by the appearance of a serpent, which suddenly awoke me, and had nearly reached my head when I perceived it. I rose in haste; the reptile was alarmed by the noise I made, and returned immediately to its hole, which was not far distant: this serpent was five feet and a half long, and as thick as the thigh of a boy twelve years old. The idea of so unpleasant a neighbour banished sleep for the remainder of the night: my travelling companions also experienced similar visits, and appeared no less dismayed by them than myself.
The whole of the 6th was employed in watering our camels; we procured for them stalks of hedysarum-alhagi, and branches of the tamarisk, which grows on the plain at some distance from the wells: these were quickly devoured. This night we lay down as on the preceding, and I was again annoyed with the sight of enormous serpents.
At four o’clock in the morning of the 7th, we directed our course to the N. N. E., among the chain of sand-hills called Helk; but these are not by much so high as those we had crossed the day before. Sidi-Aly, whom I questioned on the subject, and who at times vouchsafed an answer, assured me that in none of his former travels in the Soudan had he seen such lofty sand-hills; his route had always been more northerly.
As our road was better than that of the preceding day, we travelled at least two miles an hour. About half past eleven we halted at the foot of the chain, on a somewhat hilly plain of grey gravel, the finest I had yet seen.
On the 8th, we set out at four in the morning, taking a northerly direction, over a sandy and tolerably level soil. Near noon we halted in a plain of firm ground, covered with sharp flints as flat as slate, and mixed with small gravel; this plain is surrounded by gently swelling downs. I longed to emerge from these frightful deserts, where the only indications of animated nature were the distressing east wind, and some light-footed antelopes, which swept across them with the rapidity of an arrow. I saw in several places skeletons of these animals, dried up by the burning sun; they had undoubtedly died of thirst.
On the 9th, at about one in the morning, we pursued our journey northwards; the soil was covered with black gravel, and studded with pointed rocks of the same colour. A little before eleven we halted at the wells of Amoul-Taf, situated among rocks of grey granite; it was necessary to open them; they are only four feet deep, the water sweet, but not plentiful; tamarisks flourish in the neighbourhood. We surrounded these wells with straw to prevent the sand from falling in.
The camels were but half watered, and we filled our leathern bags in preparation for departure.
At four o’clock in the morning of the 10th, we continued our progress northward; and climbed a steep hill of granite with much difficulty, finding no beaten track. The soil we traversed was broken by hillocks of black gravel, and by sharp rocks: the country offered not the smallest sign of vegetation. Towards nine in the morning we descended into a plain, where we found a little grass, and some very stunted mimosa ferruginea.
Here we rested to let our camels graze, and killed one, which, quite overcome with the heat, could carry the baggage no longer: its flesh was distributed amongst the people of the caravan, and made us a very indifferent supper, but for want of better we were obliged to eat it.
On the 11th we proceeded at four in the morning. If my inclinations had been consulted, the journey would have been delayed till sunrise, for I was much fatigued by rising every day so early. I was so sleepy that it was with much difficulty I could keep my seat upon my camel. I frequently called to mind that the only chance of surviving the journey lay in hastening our march; this idea supported my courage, and restored my exhausted strength: I confess nevertheless, that I envied the fate of those who can purchase fame at a cheaper rate than by such painful trials and continually recurring dangers.
We still travelled northward over a dry soil resembling that which we had traversed on the preceding day. As we advanced in this direction, the heat gradually diminished, and our thirst became less intolerable. About ten o’clock we halted; the tent was pitched, and I lay down in the hope of obtaining a little rest: next to thirst, the greatest torment I suffered arose from the fatiguing necessity of rising at all hours of the night, to pursue our journey.
On the 12th, at two in the morning, still half asleep, I mounted my camel and we resumed our route northward, over a level, hard and stony soil: I saw some mimosas scattered in the plain at great distances apart, without any other sign of vegetation. About nine, we descended, through a very narrow path, into a deep ravine, surrounded by enormous blocks of granite, of a pink and various other colours, in strata of eighteen or twenty inches thick. The camels, fatigued with so bad a road, had much difficulty in descending amongst these rocks. It was ten A. M., when we halted at the wells of el-Ekseif, situated at the very bottom of the ravine. These wells, or springs, are shaded by a pretty grove of palm-trees of beautiful appearance; such at least is the impression produced by the contrast of this umbrageous and refreshing spot with the desolation that reigns around, and with the bare and arid region which we had just crossed; a few reeds and some rushes also grow round about.
This verdure, embosomed among immense rocks of granite, on a spot where, as far as the eye can reach, no other trace of vegetation is perceptible, has something at the same time wild and pleasing, which produces an effect strikingly picturesque.
The water of the wells of el-Ekseif is very good; I found a real luxury in drinking it, for it was sweet, bright, and limpid.
Tired of eating nothing but boiled rice, I went to a Moor who treated me with better fare. I recounted to him my privations, in which he seemed to take some interest, exhorting me to bear my misfortunes with patience, and inviting me to partake of his supper, which consisted of rice, boiled with meat dried in the sun, and seasoned with allspice; the meat he had brought from Jenné, in which town he had lived several years occupied in commerce, I thought, by making him a little present, to obtain in return frequent invitations to his meals, and therefore gave him a piece of twenty sous, which he accepted; he considered himself however under no engagement in my favour, for he invited me no more.
On the 13th of June, we remained beside the wells to recover from our fatigues, and refresh ourselves with copious draughts of the delicious water. The soil on which we were encamped was dry, and full of stones, which we were obliged to clear away from the spot where the camels were to lie, lest they should be hurt. In the evening water was so abundant here that I was enabled to cool my body with a calabash of cold water, and I found great benefit from it.
On the 14th, we set out at five in the morning, still pursuing the same course. Descending into a plain where we found a little herbage, we halted about nine o’clock to allow the camels to graze. The road had been difficult and we had travelled about two miles an hour. At five in the evening, judging that the camels were satisfied, we continued our journey northwards, but had scarcely proceeded a mile when we were obliged to wait for part of our company, who had stayed behind; the ground which we were upon was composed of very hard grey sand, covered with fine white gravel. Towards eleven at night, the stragglers, whom their beasts had carried to a distance in pursuit of food, arrived, and we resumed our route, guided by the pole-star; we travelled all night and till eleven in the morning of the 15th.
On the 15th, we met with the same soil as the day before, without any vegetation. A strong north wind prevailed and greatly incommoded us. At half past five P. M., after drinking some dokhnou, we again entered upon the desert. Travelling northwards all night, we found the air unusually cold, but free from fog.
On the 16th of June, at sunrise, we saw a little chain of hills stretching from north to south; they appeared black, which made me presume that they were granite.
About ten in the morning, we rested at the foot of a chain of hills of loose sand, which ran in a parallel direction with the granite hills.
At two in the morning of the 17th, we broke up our camp, and proceeded northwards; having on either side of the road hills of very fine sand. The poor camels cropped as they went along the heads of some prickly plants, the only species of vegetable which they could find. About ten we halted at the wells called Marabouty, situated a quarter of a mile east of our route, amongst high hills of moving sand: these wells, which are no deeper than the last, were also filled up, but we soon opened them.
I eagerly pressed forward to ask for drink, for I had not been able to obtain any on the road: my thirst was intense, and augmented by a violent westerly wind, which drifted the sand and rendered the journey most fatiguing. The neighbourhood of the wells is covered with the excrements of camels, to such a degree, that if the Moors were not well acquainted with their situation, these traces would suffice to point them out: the water is very good.
Another camel at the point of death was killed here and some of its flesh boiled for eating. Sidi-Aly had some pieces dried, and sprinkled with salt, to preserve them as a luxury for himself during the remainder of the journey.
On the 18th, at seven in the morning, we proceeded N. N. E. at first amongst the sand-hills afterwards, over a plain of black gravel. About ten we halted to feed the camels, and a meal was prepared with part of the animal killed the day before. This mess did not provoke the appetite, but necessity taught us to eat it. One particular that I think worthy of remark is that my health continued perfectly good in the desert, notwithstanding the privations of every kind which I experienced. I had no fear of perishing but by thirst; and this was increased by the apprehension that we might lose our way and wander to a distance from the wells. Providence, however, watched for my preservation, and I escaped even this peril, the greatest, perhaps, which these frightful solitudes present.
At one o’clock in the morning of the 19th, we resumed our route over a hard soil covered with gravel, and followed the same course; some hills of little elevation were scattered over the country. At noon we arrived at a spot which offered a little grass, and there halted. A man was deputed to take care of the cattle, and we assembled under the tent for refreshment, and to shelter ourselves from the wind which now blew up clouds of dust.
On the 20th, at one in the morning, we resumed our journey northwards, over loose sand, and halted at ten; our camels found some prickly shrubs scattered over the plain. Towards midnight we broke up, and again travelled towards the north over some hillocks which rendered our progress slow and painful.
On the 21st, at nine A. M. we halted in the midst of sand-hills, amongst which grass grew pretty plentifully. We were a mile west of the wells of el-Guedea, where we found tolerably good water: the heat was greater than on the preceding days and it was increased by a dead calm: we were this day fully occupied in laying in a stock of water.
On the 22nd we recommenced our journey, still proceeding northwards; our progress was slow, as the camels browzed by the way on some thorny and half dried plants. The soil was of the same nature as that we had last traversed. At ten in the morning we halted to avoid the heat of the day, and about ten at night broke up our camp, directing our course northward amongst sandy hills till day-light, when we came to a more level soil covered with white gravel.
On the 23rd, at nine in the morning, we suspended our progress. Some pieces of camel’s flesh dried in the sun were boiled for our dinner, but proved as hard as wood. The same evening at nine, we broke up, and, after proceeding northward for three hours, turned to the N. N. W. over a level soil, without any vegetation, and overspread with small gravel.
On the 24th, at eleven in the morning, the heat being insufferable, we halted under our tent till it moderated, drinking a little dokhnou; and, about four in the afternoon, after having eaten some rice boiled with the flesh of the camel, we again advanced, bearing N. N. W. till sunset, when we turned northward to cross a chain of low sand-hills on which some grass grows. I learnt from my comrades that the Moors of el-Harib come as far as this place in the rainy seasons to pasture their flocks. We continued our journey till two in the morning, over a hard gravelly soil and some hills of loose sand; after which we halted till dawn, lying down beside our camels to rest. On each side of the place where we stopped were great rocks of granite, amongst which were seen some miserable plants of mimosa ferruginea.
On the 25th, at four in the morning, there being sufficient light, we slowly advanced amidst large blocks of quartz, among which I saw many thorny plants and stunted mimosas, the bare branches of which the famished camels cropped and ate with avidity. Whether these animals were sensible that they were approaching their own country and the moment when their wants would be satisfied, I know not, but they appeared more sprightly and vigorous than usual. About ten o’clock the same morning, we halted at the wells of Mayara, situated in a defile surrounded by granite and some mimosas. The water of these wells, which are only four or five feet deep, is salt; its taste is detestable: we had still one leather bottle full of good water, but the Moors would not allow me my share of it; they kept it all to themselves, and told me to go and drink with the camels. Three Moorish slaves, who were of our party, were more fortunate than I was; a small portion of the good water was given to them. At a hundred and fifty feet from the salt wells, there is another, the water of which is fit to drink, but it was nearly dry; several Moors passed part of the day in emptying it, and towards sunset I could quench my thirst at my ease.
On the 26th, I was awakened at one in the morning: we proceeded N. N. E. between two hills sixty or seventy fathoms in height, composed of great blocks of grey quartz and some granites of the same colour: many mimosas and hedysarum alhagi grow in this defile, the soil of which consists of grey sand. So long was it since I had seen any thing similar in point of vegetation, that I thought myself in the most beautiful country in the world.
About eight in the morning, we entered a plain of black sand, in which we perceived here and there spots resembling little islands covered with herbage and mimosas. In proportion as we approached the limits of the desert, nature appeared less desolate. At eleven, we halted upon loose sand: we experienced the whole day a stifling heat, which created a dreadful thirst; as night drew on, some rice was boiled as usual for supper. About ten o’clock on the same day, we started towards the N. N. E., over a soil broken by deep ravines, on the edge of which some vegetation appeared. Our progress was slow, for the camels were allowed to graze as they went on; we proceeded but two miles an hour.
At nine in the morning of the 27th, we stopped by the wells of Sibicia, situated between blocks of pale rose-coloured granite, and surrounded by a pleasant grove of date-trees, the verdure of which presented an agreeable contrast with the rest of the soil. The water of these wells, which are only seven or eight feet deep, is clear and delicious to drink.
About six in the evening, being occupied in prayer, we heard a musket-shot at a distance; this noise did not surprise us, as we knew that Sidi-Aly had gone on before from el-Guedea, to fix upon a spot where his camp might be pitched, and we expected that he would send some one to meet us and conduct us thither. Several Moors ran immediately towards the point whence the sound proceeded: it was actually a Moor sent to us by Sidi-Aly, who informed us that in two days we should reach the camp of the Moors of el-Harib. He was the bearer of letters for several members of the caravan, acquainting them with the state of the country and the prices of merchandise and provisions; part of the evening was employed in reading them publicly, so that the whole caravan shared the benefit of the news. We set out again at ten in the evening, taking a northerly course; and travelled all night over a gravelly soil.
On the 28th, about seven in the morning, we descended a very steep hill, bestrewed with rocks of granite, soft and crumbling, in strata from twelve to eighteen inches thick. The road was very difficult and even dangerous for the beasts of burden. About ten in the morning, we pitched our tents in a plain, upon a stony soil, and surrounded by hills of granite of the most arid appearance.
I was not suffered quietly to enjoy the shelter which this halt offered us; for the Moors incessantly tormented me. Sidi-Body, the same who proposed to Sidi-Molut to sell me, carried his indignities so far as to strike me. I was obliged to take refuge under another tent, where I lay down for the remainder of the day. The wind blew with violence; I was very thirsty and could obtain no water from my companions. The strangers to whom I applied pitied my situation and gave me a little. I passed the day without eating; in the evening I was indebted for a handful of rice to the generosity of my new hosts, who awoke me that I might share their meal.
As we approached the encampment of el-Harib, some Moors prepared their dress, with the intention of preceding us on the following day, in order, no doubt, to enjoy as soon as possible the pleasure of meeting their families. One of them, the son of Sidi-Aly, my guide, had paid court to me for several days, that I might be induced to lend him my wrapper, his own being torn: as I had less reason to complain of him than of his comrades, during the journey, I consented to lend it to him.
About nine at night, we again decamped and took a north-west direction, as we had done from seven till ten in the morning. Toward midnight, we changed our course to N. N. E. through the passes of high mountains of granite, amongst which were pools of salt water. Enormous masses of these rocks, suspended over our heads, seemed to threaten to tumble and crush us. In one of these defiles, the camel that I rode took fright, turned aside and ran away. I was thrown flat on my back upon the gravel.
The pain I experienced was so great, that I was persuaded some of my bones were broken, and indeed that I was near my end. A Moor came to my assistance; he took me in his arms, and pressed me violently against his breast, which afforded me some ease. He assisted me to overtake my camel, which had been stopped, and made it knee, that I might remount with more ease; this Moor was a stranger, who did not belong to the company of Aly. My sufferings were still so acute, that I could not restrain my groans; I conceived that my skull was fractured; I experienced a giddiness in my head and could scarcely see. I was not relieved from these symptoms till the following day, and the pains in my loins continued with much violence, so that I could not stoop without great difficulty. I felt the effects of this fall for more than two months. The Moor who assisted me to rise placed me himself upon my camel, which I should have been incapable of mounting without help.
To issue from these defiles, we were obliged to climb a steep and lofty mountain; the path was narrow and winding, and presented considerable difficulties, in consequence of which all the company were required to alight from their camels. I alone continued to ride; I was so severely bruised that I should have found it impossible to walk any part of the way. This exposed me to numerous invectives from some of the Moors, who threatened to throw stones at me to compel me to dismount: those, however, who had witnessed my accident took my part, and I was allowed to proceed in peace.
The camels, exhausted by the fatigues of the journey, advanced with reluctance, took two or three steps, then stopped, painfully turning their heads first on one side and then on the other, uttering low moans, while they seemed to measure with their eyes the laborious task which still remained to be accomplished. It was with regret that I found myself obliged to continue mounted, for I pitied these unfortunate animals. The Moors, walking behind, encouraged them with their voices, repeating certain words in different tones, in the way of a song, which the camels appeared to understand.
The track frequently passed so near the edge of the rock, and was so narrow, that I thought it impossible to follow it without being thrown down frightful precipices. At length, having with great toil attained the summit, we discovered an extensive plain, the soil of which, composed of gravel and grey sand, is very hard and interspersed with thin flat stones, resembling slates, and of a grey and black colour.
On the 29th, about two in the morning, the soil changed, becoming more sandy, and offering some traces of vegetation. At daybreak we stopped to perform our devotions; after having returned thanks to God, those who wished to precede us set out for the camp upon fresh camels and went off at a swift pace.
We followed them soon afterwards, in a N. N. W. direction, over a hard soil covered with coarse grey gravel. About eight o’clock, we descended into a plain in which the vegetation was tolerably fine; I particularly remarked the tamarisk in considerable quantity. The herbage, though dry, on account of the season, afforded abundant nourishment to our camels.
The inhabitants of the camp, apprised of our arrival, hastened out to meet us: the women presented the children to their fathers, who expressed the greatest joy, embracing them alternately, and affectionately returning their caresses. I was much struck by this interesting scene, and could not avoid comparing it in my mind with the coldness, which amongst the Braknas the wife and children of Mohammed-Sidi-Moctar had manifested on occasion of his return to his family.
About nine o’clock in the morning, we arrived at the dwelling of Sidi-Aly. His camp belonged to the tribe of Body; it was composed of twelve or fifteen tents, covered with stuff made of camel’s hair, pitched in a spacious plain, to the north of which rose high mountains entirely bare and running from east to west. My joy on finding myself in an inhabited region was extreme; the idea that henceforth I might quench my thirst at my ease made me forget the fatigue of the desert.
On entering the camp my guide met me laughing, and asked me to give him my hand in token of peace: he inquired after my health and even lodged me in the tent of his aged sister, who was so prejudiced that she durst not approach me. I had soon numerous visits from men and women; for Aly had related to his countrymen the various circumstances which had determined me to cross the desert on my return to my own country. The women, whom I found much more curious than the men, teased me incessantly; they talked all together, so that I was at a loss which to listen to. In order to attract my attention, one struck me on the shoulder, another on the head, and another pulled me by my clothes. Sidi-Salah, to whom I had in the morning lent my wrapper, gave me some dates for my breakfast; I found them however so hard that I ate but few, which nevertheless renewed the pains in my jaws.
Aly, my guide, had couscous of wheat prepared for two Mahometan priests, of the Trajacants who had travelled with us: I expected that he would have offered me a small share, for I had eaten nothing throughout the day, except the bad dates which had been sent to me; but I was disappointed and compelled to wait patiently.
At sun-set, Aly killed a fine sheep to regale the priests; the liver and suet were stuck upon skewers, laid upon the coals, and eaten half-raw. He gave me a taste of it; the children and their parents divided the entrails, which they also laid upon the coals.
The remainder of the mutton made a plentiful supper; they gave me a good portion of couscous of barley-meal, adding a small piece of the belly of the sheep which had been reserved. Though this couscous was detestable, both for its want of seasoning and for the great quantity of fat with which it was made, I ate of it with appetite.
On the 30th of June, the women were early at work grinding wheat for the breakfast of the priests. The means by which they obtain the flour separated from the bran is as follows: they have two round flat granite stones, placed one upon another, and set into one another by means of a piece of wood fixed to the centre of the lower stone; the upper has an opening through which the grain is introduced; it is then turned with a handle. Two women are employed in working this machine, although it is neither heavy nor difficult to move.
When the wheat had been thoroughly sifted several times through a sieve of thin canvas, the two daughters of Sidi-Aly, as dirty as their father, proceeded to knead it into a cake without yeast: one of them made a great fire of tamarisk wood, to heat the ground on the spot chosen for baking the cake: when it was considered sufficiently hot, they swept the place and laid the dough upon the earth; the embers were then replaced upon it and covered with loose sand which had been heated for the purpose: when half-baked it was washed, broken in pieces, and thrown into a calabash, full of fat, the remains of the preceding night’s supper; a kind of sauce was now poured over it and a piece of a sheep recently killed was added. All the family and the priests partook of this stew, and when they had eaten sufficiently they brought me a small portion which remained, with a little sauce upon it; this formed both my breakfast and dinner. On the succeeding days they gave me nothing but dates; I represented to Sidi-Aly that they disagreed with me, owing to the complaint in my teeth, which prevented my chewing them without experiencing severe pain. Aly answered that he was sorry for it, but he had no meat to give me; that in this country dates only were eaten during the day and couscous at night: the remainder of the rice which had been given me at el-Arawan, was put into his tent, and the family ate of it without ever offering me any. At length, having no remedy, it was necessary to conform to this mode of living upon dates alone: but how much did I suffer! I had soon a sore on the roof of my mouth, and fearing lest I should be again reduced to the dreadful state in which I had formerly been, I gave up eating these fruits, and determined to beg a little camel’s milk from our neighbours, whom I found but little affected by my petition. Aly had several daughters whose young lovers were frequently coming to his tent; sangleh was often dressed for their breakfast, but they never once offered me any, though they knew that it gave me such excruciating pain to eat the dates. In three days’ time the family of Aly began to persecute me; they conceived they could not do better than imitate the chief, who, on all occasions, manifested an implacable hatred to me. The women appeared to take pleasure in tormenting me; they would not allow me a tent; the moment I lay down to sleep, they played a hundred tricks to oblige me to rise, they pricked me with a piece of wood, dragged me by the legs, took away my wrapper, and threw water over my face. Tired of these endless annoyances I resolved to take refuge in the tent of a good blacksmith who had performed the pilgrimage to Mecca, which was a great recommendation to him in that country: his aged mother was very pious, and received me kindly; she gave me for refreshment milk and water, which beverage they, as well as the Braknas called cheni. The good old woman thought she was performing a meritorious act, acceptable to God, in saying that her tent was mine, and that I might come thither to sleep whenever I pleased. Though a devout Mahometan, she was full of spirits and fond of a joke, nor did I find her given to falsehood like the other women. Sidi-Aly, seeing that his people would not endure me in any of his tents, had one pitched for me alone, but it was impossible to remain in it, for, as the air entered at one side only, the heat was suffocating.
Early on the 2nd of July, the sister of Sidi-Aly came to seek me, holding in her disgusting hands a lump of sangleh covered with hairs, for she had used the same butter to grease her head and to season this mess: though I was exceedingly hungry I had not courage to taste it. This woman, about sixty years of age, took me aside, and said in a low voice: “Listen, Abdallahi, thou who wert brought up among the christians, who know every thing except the path to salvation, thou shouldst be as wise as they are; and I come to pray thee to make me a charm for one of my nieces who wants a husband; if thou consentest, and the charm proves good I will provide thee with sangleh for two days.” She paused a moment to hear my answer; she then added, that she had induced the Moorish priests to write several for her and had paid them well in dragmes, but that they had produced no effect; she hoped that mine would turn out better. The situation in which I now stood did not permit me to reject this proposition: I only insisted upon the clause that she should not put butter into the sangleh. Without loss of time she fetched ink and a straw to use as a pen. She first told me the name of the desired lover, and the names of his parents, and recommended to me particularly to keep the secret: as she had no paper I furnished her with a little bit, and wrote in her presence the charm she wished for. To give it the more importance, I ordered it to be tied round the neck of the young girl, which was immediately done, and finally, to inspire a high idea of my skill in magic, I traced upon a little board another talisman, directing that the writing should be washed, and that her niece should drink of the water which had been used for this purpose. This formality having been punctually fulfilled, the girl came to ask me what time would elapse before the charm would operate. As I knew that I should not be many days in the country, I told her that it would probably not be twenty before she was married. Her aunt Ayesha (this was the old woman’s name) kept her word; she brought me on the morrow, in a very dirty calabash, some sangleh made of barley-meal and without seasoning. The daughters of Aly, having become more civil since I had shewn my talent for bestowing husbands, ceased to molest me; they came and offered me some fresh camel’s milk, and this was the first time that I had drunk any in the dwelling of my host.
Meanwhile the good old aunt who had so strongly recommended secresy to me, gave her friends information of the happy talent which I possessed, and I soon had to write for the neighbouring camps. All the women of the environs made friends with me that, I might give them a charm which would procure husbands for their daughters; they even went so far as to offer me money in payment, which it will be easily imagined I was far from accepting; but I made no scruple of taking milk and sangleh for my support: profiting by this innocent stratagem, I had every day gruel or milk for breakfast. Before chance furnished me with this method of procuring food, I had given my host a little coussabe, entreating him to send me each morning, at least, a small quantity of sangleh: the old hypocrite kept my present, but gave me nothing in return. One day I reproached him for his conduct, and he returned me my coussabe: I changed it for a pair of morocco shoes, for I was barefoot; in the middle of the day, the sun was so scorching, and the gravel and dry herbage cut my feet so much, that I had been obliged to borrow shoes to walk in.
The sons of Sidi-Aly, from twenty-eight to thirty years of age, not wanting my assistance to find wives, did not treat me more kindly than before; they continued to insult me up to the time of my departure; they even carried their insolence so far as to present themselves uncovered before me using the most indecent gestures. Aly, their father, only laughed at this conduct, which he witnessed.
The Arabs of el-Harib are so harassed by the Beraberas, or Berbers, to whom they are tributary, that they are fearful of travelling even in their own country without an escort from among these people; for if these unfortunate Arabs were met by the Berbers, they would be beaten and pillaged: for this reason we could not proceed to Tafilet without an escort. We were therefore obliged to wait for one of the chiefs of this nation, who lived in a village of the Drah or Draha, and had been sent for.
On the 3rd of July, this chief arrived at the encampment Aly gave him a good reception. They agreed upon the price which each load should pay for transport from el-Harib to Tafilet—for this Berber was to furnish beasts of burden; they signed a written agreement in which they mutually bound themselves to fulfil their engagements, and the Berber promised to return in eight days with the camels. Tired of the monotonous life which I was leading in the camp, I resolved for amusement to make a tour among the tribe of Oulad-Gouassim to visit an eminent Mahometan priest, whose sanctity had been highly extolled; his encampment lay about three miles to the east of ours. I approached his tent at the moment when the holy personage was coming out: several old men accompanied him; they had heard me spoken of, and immediately informed him that I was unhappy, and that I had separated from the christians. He answered with an air of indifference and without appearing to take any notice of me: “Well then! he has to thank God for his return into the way of salvation.” I seated myself for a moment upon the ground with him and some of the Moors, who were vicing with each other in obsequiousness to him: he ordered one of them to fetch him a little water, to dissolve some salt which he intended to take as a remedy for an indisposition, pretending that this beverage would give him relief. As the vessel which was brought to him was too full, he was about to pour out some of the water, when one of the Moors in his company, being apparently thirsty, proposed to drink it, but the haughty priest, with a contemptuous air, asked who he was that he should drink out of his satala: the person who aspired to this favour was no doubt worthy of it, for no sooner had he mentioned his name than the priest presented the vase to him. During the short time that I remained in his presence I saw a number of Moors come to consult him on divers maladies; his only remedy for so many complaints was to lay his hand gravely upon the part affected, and, rubbing it gently, to pronounce a prayer. This important person was also the public writer and the instructor of the children.
The only wealth of this man consisted in his knowledge of the Koran; but in Africa this knowledge is worth an estate. From all parts they brought him cotton cloth for his dress, stuff for his tent, beasts to carry him on his journeys, and barley for the food of himself and his people: he received all this in exchange for the charms which he wrote. In his camp he was abundantly furnished with whatever could contribute to his support and that of his friends; in return, he gave talismans for the cure or prevention of all diseases, against thefts, or to obtain husbands for the young females.
As it was late and I did not intend returning to Aly’s camp, and as the priest had not given me an invitation to sleep in his tent, I sought elsewhere a lodging for the night; I addressed myself as is usual to the first man I met, and requested permission to sleep near his tent: this man received me kindly, installed me in the place which he usually occupied, and left me; he then sent me a supply of dates to serve till supper time. I did not touch them, being afraid of them. During the night I was visited by a Moor, who was a cripple, and obliged to be carried by another. I was lying upon the ground; on rising I was astonished to see this little man beside me; he gave me the idea of a mysterious dwarf; I knew not what to think of his nocturnal visit, and conceived that by the assistance of his companion he intended to steal something. Finding that their presence was not at all to my satisfaction, they desired me not to be afraid, but I assured them loud enough to be heard by the neighbours, that if they did not leave me, I should complain to my host. The deformed dwarf threw himself into the arms of his conductor and they disappeared like lightning. About ten o’clock at night, my supper was brought me: it was good couscous with meat, such as I had never eaten in Aly’s family. The chief of the tent brought me water to wash my hands, inquired if I had had a good supper, and took his seat beside me: he put several questions relative to the customs of christian countries, and then withdrew.
On the 4th of July, after taking leave of my generous host, I returned to Aly’s camp. On the road I met two women, whose conversation amused me a little. They begged me to write charms, one to make her husband who intended to quit her change his mind; another to procure a husband for a young woman who wished to marry: they offered me money in exchange, but warned me, laughing, that they should pay nothing till my charms had taken effect. This conversation made the walk pleasant, and beguiled the length of the way.
We arrived at the camp: the blacksmith, to whose tent I often went to sleep, was preparing to transport two cargoes of ivory to Tatta; I perceived that he paid dues to the Berbers to travel through the country in safety. On making inquiries concerning the place to which they were going, I learnt that Tatta is a large town situated five days’ journey to the N. W. of our camp: the route leads through the town of Brahihima, which is two days’ journey from the camp. The goods taken to Tatta are dispatched thence by the merchants of Soueyrah (Cape Mogador.)
On the 6th of July, the wife of Sidi-Aly, who till then, like the rest of the family had given me tokens of ill-will accosted me in a very affable tone, and requested a saphi for bad eyes; promising me that if I effected a cure, she would give me every thing I wished. To get quit of her I gave her one immediately, and she received it with gratitude. I refused her money, but accepted with pleasure a little milk which she offered me. After some days, the impatient Mariam (that was her name) seeing that my amulet did not operate, reproached me bitterly, saying that my skill was no greater than that of the priests. Knowing from her husband that I had some medicaments, she asked me for physic, which embarrassed me greatly, as I was fearful of increasing her complaint; it was necessary however to satisfy her, under penalty of being considered disobliging. Convinced that cleanliness was the best remedy I could prescribe, to force her to it, I diluted with a considerable quantity of water a small portion of sulphat of quinine, and desired her to wash her eyes with it; she insisted that I should perform this operation myself, unfortunately the water, penetrating to her eyes, made them smart a little: upon which she flew into a rage, loaded me with abuse, and in conclusion, cursed both the doctor and his medicines. From that time she gave me no more sangleh.
This incident did not destroy their confidence in my saphies, to the credit of which moreover old Aly had contributed by a falsehood; having asserted that when I left Timbuctoo my abdomen was much swelled, and that I wrote in a book, washed my writing in water, and drank this liquor, which cured me.
An old woman long tormented me to procure a husband for her daughter; she dragged me, at length, against my will into her tent, which belonged to a neighbouring camp, promising me a draught of cheni in recompense. Here I saw the object of her maternal solicitude; a girl about twenty years of age, repulsively ugly, clothed in rags, the filthiness of which could only be equalled by that of her person. Her left cheek was covered by a scar, and she had sore eyes. Her whole figure presented the most revolting appearance imaginable; and I perceived at a glance the cause of her mother’s anxiety to get her married by means of a charm. I felt that it was quite beyond my art to accomplish such a prodigy. To induce me however to exert all my skill, the old woman offered me a piece of dried meat, which she took out of a large leathern sack, where, from its state of putrefaction, it might have been deposited on the day that her amiable daughter was born. Notwithstanding the repugnance which I manifested, the mother insisted upon my acceptance of the delectable morsel, which she assured me was excellent; but such was my disgust that I even refused the cheni which she offered. I was anxious to withdraw, but could not effect my escape till I had written the amulet required; this done, I fled with all expedition, invoking for the maiden a man courageous enough to take her to wife.
I have never, in any country, seen women so dirty as those of el-Harib. This total want of cleanliness is no doubt the cause of the chronic ophthalmia, and other disorders, with which they and their equally filthy offspring are afflicted. My medical reputation drew upon me most unpleasant avocations: the mothers brought to me in crowds children in so disgusting a state that I could not look at them without horror; in vain did I avert my eyes, they only became more importunate, compelling me to examine the miserable beings for whom they solicited my aid. I could do no better for them than recommend cleanliness; but this simple remedy they despised, and would not be content with any thing short of the marvellous.
On the evening of the 6th, a troop of Berbers arrived in our camp demanding hospitality. Aly ordered for their supper a couscous of wheat flour, to which were added some pieces of meat dried in the sun. The food for me and the slaves was separately dressed; but Aly’s sister, who, since I had given her amulets for her nieces, had become much more attentive to me, gave me some of their meat concealed under the bad couscous of barley intended for me.
On the 8th of July, another troop of Berbers carried off several camels which were grazing at a distance. The whole camp took the alarm, and arming themselves with guns the men set off in haste, some on foot and others on horseback; but the thieves were already distant, and their pursuers returned without having overtaken them. The evening was spent in lamentations on the part of the owners of the camels, their relations, and friends. They had recourse to fortune-tellers to know if they should recover them, and came to consult me on the subject, requesting a charm to bring them back; this I refused, under pretence that my writings did not possess that virtue.
On the 11th of July, the Berbers who were to escort us to Tafilet arrived, and great was my joy to think that on the morrow I should quit a place where I had experienced so many mortifications. Aly had a sheep killed for the Berbers’ supper and gave me a little bit, with an apology on account of the many persons who were to partake of it.
On the 12th, at five o’clock in the morning, our preparations were made for departure; but before quitting this country I shall give a description of it.
The territory of el-Harib, two days’ journey west of that of el-Drah, and one to the east of the tribe of the Trajacants, is situated between two chains of mountains, which extend from east to west, and separate it towards the north from the empire of Morocco, to which it is tributary. The inhabitants are divided into several roving tribes. Their principal wealth consists in the great quantity of camels which they breed, and which in the wet season produce abundance of milk for their sustenance. All the Moors of el-Harib travel in the Soudan; they go to Timbuctoo, el-Arawan, and Sansanding; the merchants of Tafilet, el-Drah, and Soueyrah, give them loads for their camels; on their own account they carry only wheat and dates, and these in small ventures. When in the Soudan they remain there several months, for the purpose of traffic; making little journeys to Toudeyni, where they purchase mineral salt, which they sell again to the principal merchants in the two chief entrepôts, receiving in exchange grain, the stuffs of the Soudan, and gold. Having spent nine or ten months in this traffic, they take a load for Tafilet or some other city, and afterwards return into their own country and to their family, bringing with them gold only and some slaves, whom they sell in Morocco.
On returning to their own country, they are obliged to pay a small tribute to a chief called the sheikh. The goods brought by the Moors from the Soudan to el-Harib are transported to Tafilet or other places by the Berbers alone, or under escorts which they furnish at a price agreed upon; without which precaution the merchants would certainly be robbed or murdered on the road.
The Moors of this miserable country are incessantly harassed by the Berbers, from whose habits of rapine they have every thing to fear, although they pay them a heavy tribute; and not one of them, whatever rank he may hold at home, dares travel without being thus accompanied. These roving people, not being themselves cultivators of the soil, are obliged frequently to go to el-Drah to purchase barley and dates for food, and not daring to attempt this without the convoy of the Berbers, they pay them an additional tribute by way of remuneration. These latter, well armed, are continually prowling about in the country of el-Harib, to obtain food from the Moors and even to carry off their cattle.
The inhabitants of this district are so poor that they can purchase only the cheapest provisions, principally such dates as, having fallen from the trees before they have become perfectly ripe, are carefully picked up by the owners, exposed to the sun to dry, and then put into leathern bags, where they become so extremely hard that very good teeth are requisite to eat them without pain. Upon these dates, which they pound in a wooden mortar, and a little cheni, the Moors of el-Harib subsist during the day; eating sangleh before evening only in very particular cases.
About eight or nine at night, they usually sup upon a couscous of barley generally steeped in warm water, in which they have boiled a handful of herbs gathered in the environ of their camp. They also breed some sheep, but when they kill one, which is very rarely done, they dry the meat and preserve it in leathern sacks, sometimes for six months. They have recourse to this reserve when they treat strangers, particularly the Berbers, to whom they are very attentive. As a mark of consideration, they spread before the tent for their repose a carpet as good as those which we use in Europe. The master, in honour of his guests, frequently eats with them from the same bowl, and, instead of offering them pure water, he adds to it camel’s milk, which in the rainy season is very abundant. On the arrival of the strangers, the dates and cheni are immediately set before them as a refreshment till the supper hour. Though the Moors of el-Harib receive the Berbers thus hospitably, yet in travelling through their country they are never treated even with a supper; in their journeys therefore, they are careful to carry their provision of dates and a little barley-meal, which they boil in water. The costume of the Berbers differs from that of the Moors only in a band of coloured stuff, which the former wrap round their heads in the form of a turban; they also wear ear-rings. They are all armed and mounted on fine horses, handsomely caparisoned, and they wear spurs, which are attached to a leather strap firmly fastened round the instep.
The Moors of el-Harib dress like those on the banks of the Senegal, except that over their coussabe they wear a linen wrapper manufactured in the country of el-Drah or Tafilet. They have only one wife, but like the Braknas change her frequently. They are all Musulmans, yet they do not addict themselves, like the marabouts, to the study of the Koran, being satisfied with knowing the first verse of it without learning to write; a marabout is, consequently, held in great consideration among them.
The Moors of el-Harib are generally detested by their neighbours; in el-Drah and Tafilet they are seldom called any thing but cafirs or infidels. In my life I never saw women so evil disposed and so dirty as those of this country: they do not veil themselves, like the women of Morocco, but expose a face disgustingly filthy; the smell that proceeds from them is most offensive. The inhabitants eat the camels which have died from fatigue, but not till they have drained off the blood; they keep some sheep and a few horses. El-Harib contains eleven tribes, the names of which, as I received them from an old inhabitant of the camp to which I belonged, are as follows: Oulad-Rossik, Oulad-Wébal, Oulad-Gouessim, Oulad-Foulh, Oulad-Ouraff, Oulad-Rouzinn, Oulad-Rahan, Oulad-Nasso, Oulad-Body, Oulad-Bonlaboi, Oulad-Sidi-Ayesha. One day’s journey west from our camp are situated the first tents of the Trajacants; at the distance of four in the same direction are the tribes of Oulad-Noun, who dwell near the village of Adrar, which must not be confounded with the country of el-Drah, a small district extending from east to West, and from north to south, between Morocco and el-Harib; five days’ journey west from the encampment of Sidi-Aly is the village of Sous; at fourteen days in the same direction that of Soueyrah; and at ten or eleven days from el-Harib, to the N. N. W. is Morocco, the capital of the empire of that name, which these rovers sometimes visit.
While the men of el-Harib are travelling in the Soudan, the women employ themselves in making ropes of grass, to fasten the baggage and to draw water from the wells in the deserts; they spin camel’s hair with which they make tent-covers; they prepare and tan leather, and make sandals for their husbands, and the remainder of their time is devoted to their domestic concerns. As in all other Mahometan countries, they eat apart from the men.
Sidi-Aly had frequently teased me to part with my two pieces of blue cotton cloth from the Soudan, that I might have, he said, the means of purchasing provisions for my journey to Tafilet, those which had been given me at Timbuctoo and el-Arawan, having been wholly consumed by himself and his family. Wishing to retain my cloths, which might probably prove serviceable to me in future, I resisted his importunities, and thus cheating his cupidity ran the risk of exposing myself to his resentment. My resolution, however, produced no ill consequences.
CHAPTER XXV.
Country of el-Drah — Zawât — el-Hamid — Bounou — Town of Mimcina — Camp of Berbers — Tabelbât — The Tawâts — Wells of Yeneguedel, of Faratissa, of Bohayara — Customs of the Berbers — Wells of Goud-Zenaga, of Zenatyia — Town of el-Yabo — Wells of Chanerou, of Nyela.— Arrival at Tafilet — Town of Ghourland — Market — Ressaut, the residence of a Governor under the emperor of Morocco.
On the 12th of July, we set out at five in the morning, after having taken a little camel’s milk, which I bought with a glass bead from my chaplet. We proceeded slowly towards the east, over a hard soil, composed of grey sand, covered with vegetation, and intersected with deep ravines. Aly would not permit me to mount my camel all the morning; it was not till towards noon when he mounted himself that I could obtain this favour. About two P. M. we halted on a very hard sand upon which grew some zizyphus lotus; throughout the day a strong easterly wind incommoded us much: at four in the evening it veered to the west. At nightfall we were visited by a Moorish priest whose camp was in the vicinity of our halting place. As he was proprietor of several flocks of sheep, we wished to purchase some mutton of him but he refused; and we gave him some barley-meal which he undertook that his wife should dress for our suppers. He sent it to us at ten o’clock, and had the civility to add some milk from his ewes. Out of reserve he declined supping with us, but seated himself apart and waited till the dish containing our mess was brought to him.
On the 13th of July, at two in the morning, we continued our route E. N. E., and crossed several sand-hills covered with dry shrubs. About eight o’clock we passed the ruins of some mud-huts, surrounded by a battlemented wall; opposite to these ruins is a small square mausoleum, the roof of which is a vaulted arch. Immediately within the little entrance door, is stretched a cord from which depend numerous shreds of cloth of various colours, which travellers had hung there from a sentiment of devotion. Several pyramids of flint heaped together without cement, and about eighteen inches in height, are another kind of offering made by passengers to the manes of the sherif whose ashes repose in this monument, and whose memory is held in veneration.
Here the Moors and Berbers of our little caravan went through their devotions; after a short ceremony they took a little sand from the place in which they had prostrated themselves and sprinkled it over their camels and slaves. I learned that these ruins belonged to an ancient village called Zawât, long since abandoned by its inhabitants, who had elsewhere founded another town of the same name.
The soil of the environs is barren, hard, and full of stones of various colours; a few bushes indeed are to be seen, but their foliage is parched up by the sun.
It was noon when we passed the new village of Zawât, which belongs to the country of el-Drah. This village is peopled by the former inhabitants of the deserted ruins we had seen in the morning: the houses are of stone, with terraced roofs, and consist only of a ground-floor; they are ill-built and resemble the huts of the Bambaras. We crossed some fields which had been cultivated, and about half past twelve halted in a wood of date-trees, near a neat village, called el-Hamit. Nothing was to be seen on all sides but forests of date-trees majestically rearing their summits to the clouds. Under these trees the inhabitants of el-Drah cultivate wheat, barley, and some garden vegetables. They divide their land, the soil of which is a fine sand but fertile, into little squares, round which they raise dikes to receive and retain the rain-water, and when they have collected more than they want they convey the surplus by channels to the foot of the date-trees. Each landholder has in the middle of his field a well of clear and good water, sunk to the depth of twenty or twenty-five feet, in a hard sand mixed with small black and yellow pebbles; I remarked several having strata from fourteen to eighteen inches thick of red sand a little veined with grey and of the consistence of clay. Two posts fifteen feet high are erected, one on each side of these wells supporting a cross-beam, to which is fastened a long pole, bearing a weight at its hinder extremity to counterbalance the bucket which is attached by a piece of cord to the other; the water is thus drawn-up without much effort and serves to water their plantations. At the depth of about twenty-five feet are found rocks which appear to be of granite. Wood is very scarce in this country; the fuel consists only of dry palm-leaves and the trunks of dead trees: the timber used in the construction of their houses is that of the date-tree.
The plough is used in this country, and it is drawn by mules or camels.
Near sunset the Berbers collected some small pebbles, which they arranged symmetrically upon the sand, then heated them with a fire of palm-leaves, and, after kneading a little barley-meal, baked a cake of it for our supper upon the stones; to improve it they mixed with the meal some small bits of mutton fat; when baked it was divided among us. Aly gave me a little bit of it which I thought delicious, although badly baked and very heavy, for I had tasted nothing the whole day; my guide, however, though he allowed me so little nourishment, upbraided me with living at his expense, since my own provisions had been long exhausted. Happily for me two Trajacant marabouts had joined our caravan; Aly supplied them with provisions, and allowed them sometimes to ride his camels, not out of humanity, but because he would have utterly forfeited his reputation as a pious Musulman had he acted otherwise. These two men were excellent company to me: they consoled me under the insults to which I was incessantly exposed, and greatly alleviated the hardships of my lot during this long and toilsome journey; for I should probably have encountered still worse usage but for their presence, which imposed some restraint on my guide and his family. The marabouts had even the kindness to give me drink, when, as it frequently happened, water was refused me.
On the 14th at three in the morning, we took our departure, slowly directing our course E. N. E., through numerous plantations of dates; the soil was broken by hills of loose sand.
About eight in the morning, we passed a large village called Bounou, surrounded by beautiful palm-trees. About ten we came to a hard soil covered with small black and yellow pebbles; here we met six Berber horsemen, all well mounted, and armed with sabres and muskets; they advanced at full speed to meet us with hostile intentions, pointing their loaded muskets: the six Berbers who formed our escort, with four well armed Moors, placed themselves at the head of the cavalcade, holding their weapons in readiness to receive the enemy. The two parties halted within a certain distance, when the Berbers parleyed together in their own language, still holding their muskets ready for firing. As soon as they recognised each other to be countrymen, they saluted; and we pursued our route without molestation. What a country is this, in which it is impossible to stir a step without danger of being robbed and even murdered by one’s neighbours! We continued our course in the same direction over a hard and stony soil, and passed an ancient village in ruins, where the minaret of a mosque is still to be seen; beside it is a well at which travellers quench their thirst; one of the Trajacant Moors gave me a little of this water, which I found tepid and bad. I also observed a mausoleum, like that which we had seen the day before, and where the Musulmans again performed their devotions. Proceeding in the same direction, we met some wretched Moors, leading asses laden with forage; these men were badly clothed and walked barefoot.
About noon we encamped in the fields under the shade of some date trees and not far from Mimcina, a large town of el-Drah, inhabited by Berber and Moorish husbandmen. This town, surrounded by walls twelve-feet high, is situated between two chains of hills stretching east and west, the soil of which every where presents a reddish hue, without any trace of vegetation.
As it was hot, and our people were not yet returned from watering the camels at the wells, my thirst became extreme, and I determined to visit the tents of the Berbers, pitched at a short distance from our own, to beg a little water.
No sooner did I approach the camp than three large dogs rushed upon me, tore my garments and bit me in several places. I cried aloud to the Berbers for assistance, but these unfeeling wretches carelessly looked on or turned away with the utmost indifference: assailed by so many enemies I found the combat very unequal; and, for fear of being torn in pieces, sounded a retreat, still sustaining some bites as I retired: the dogs carried off some pieces of my dress as trophies, and did not leave me till I was at a considerable distance from their tents. Heartily cursing the inhumanity of their masters, I returned sorrowfully to our own camp under the date-trees. The Berbers keep a great number of dogs to watch their flocks, and they are so accustomed not to suffer the approach of any stranger whatsoever to the habitations of which they are left in charge, that the fear of being devoured by them serves as a wholesome restraint upon the depredations of those robbers by whom the country is so much infested. The Berbers themselves dare not approach without caution the camps of their own tribe to which they are strangers; but, if business obliges them to repair thither, they take the following method to escape the fury of these pitiless guardians. The visiter advances slowly, and makes a circuit round the tents at a considerable distance; the dogs begin to bark, without advancing on account of the distance; as soon as the owners of the tents shew themselves, he acquaints them with the object of his coming, when they are anxious to satisfy him; if he applies for hospitality, supper is spread for him on a mat at a short distance from the tents, which no one is ever allowed to enter.
At five in the evening, when the heat was abated, I took a walk to the town of Mimcina, accompanied by a neighbouring Moor, who, being a friend of Sidi-Aly’s, had come to visit him and brought him a present of dates, which, by the invitation of the donor, we ate together. The chief of our Berbers strongly recommended me to this Moor, and charged him especially to guard me from insult and not to suffer me to be robbed of the pagne which I wore; a recommendation which gave me but an indifferent opinion of the people whom I was about to visit. The town is walled and surrounded by pleasant plantations of palm-trees. I observed under a shed near the gate a party of loungers, who, as soon as they saw me, crowded round me asking a thousand ridiculous questions, for they were already apprised that I was an Arab who had escaped from the christians. With some trouble I got quit of these impertinent fellows, and, penetrating into the town, I passed through a very narrow, winding, and dirty street; the walls of the houses are at least fifteen feet high and very badly plaistered. I was followed by a crowd of men, for the women were veiled and durst not look at me. I seated myself under a gallery, where many old men were collected together in conversation with one of our Trajacants, who had been in the town all day, and had already related part of my history to the assembly. Among the crowd was an aged Moor, who, having performed two journeys to Mecca, had acquired great preponderance over their counsels: this man talked to me a long time about the christians, and shewed me a fac-simile of the manner in which Christ is represented in Europe; he tried to chant in imitation of the priests whom he had heard at Tripoli in Barbary, and often repeated, striking his breast, amen, amen. He asked me if I was disposed to eat some dates, for which I thanked him. The Trajacant marabout told him that I was with a guide named Aly, who persecuted me in order to force me to sell my dress and purchase provisions for the journey; the old man appeared incensed at such perfidious conduct, and declared that such a person could not be a good Musulman. He inquired whether I would like a present of dates, which I accepted; and he immediately ordered those about him to provide me with a sufficient quantity to last till our arrival at Tafilet; and leading me to the mosque reiterated his orders. After the prayers, a great quantity of dates was brought to me, enough indeed to load an ass; but unfortunately they turned out to be spoilt and bad: these good people carried their complaisance so far as to carry them to our camp; bad as they were, Aly, the covetous Aly, received them with pleasure, and on that day behaved better to me than usual.
The houses of Mimcina consist of a ground-floor, only; like those of Timbuctoo, they have terraced roofs, and admit the air only from an inner court. I saw several dirty Jewesses, covered with rags, walking barefoot, and displaying the utmost extremity of wretchedness. The inhabitants of Mimcina have but few beasts of any kind, and scarcely any oxen or horned cattle: they breed a few sheep for the sake of their wool, some goats and poultry; they are excellent husbandmen, and have many date-trees, in which their wealth principally consists. Their breakfast is composed of bread with a little gruel made of barley-meal; and they sup upon couscous. About seven o’clock a plentiful couscous with mutton was sent to Sidi-Aly, who, after having made his own supper with two or three persons whom he looked upon as his equals, shared the remainder between me and six camel-drivers, who were not admitted to his table: the poor slaves also, to my great satisfaction, were not forgotten. We afterwards lay down under the palm-trees, the broad leaves of which formed a canopy over our heads, and I, contrary to my usual habit, slept tolerably well.
On the 15th, at three in the morning, we took leave of the town of Mimcina and its inhabitants; and, bending our course E. N. E., traversed a hard soil of white sand, with a surface of small pebbles of the same colour, mixed with gravel; the country is diversified with hills of an extremely arid appearance. The Moors of Mimcina informed me that Beneali, the residence of the chief of the Berbers, is situated N. N. W. of their town, at the distance of a day’s journey, on the road to Morocco. This nation, according to their account, pays no tribute to the emperor.
A day’s journey from Beneali in the same direction lies the village of Amsero; a days’ journey beyond that Ranguerute, a large town, and six days farther still Morocco, the capital of the empire.
Six days’ journey east of Mimcina is situated the town of Tabelbât, on the road to Tawât, which is eight days’ journey beyond. The Moors of Tawât are husbandmen; they have numerous palm-trees, trade with Timbuctoo, and occasionally visit Tafilet and el-Drah to purchase goats and sheep.
Pursuing our route, we arrived at the wells of Yeneguedel, where we halted: a quarter of mile to the south we saw a delightful grove of palms, offering a striking contrast with the barrenness of the neighbouring mountains; but our guides neglected this spot, where we might have enjoyed the shade, and left us exposed to the scorching sun, which on that day was more than usually powerful. I visited the wells, situated on a little hill, as bare as the neighbouring country, and there found a single drooping mimosa ferruginea, under which I stretched myself, and, resting my head on a stone, slept soundly. On awaking, I approached the wells to drink, and saw there some Berber women watering their sheep: the wells are three feet deep, and their water is good and abundant; they are sunk in grey sand, containing many calcareous stones of a flat shape. On our departure from Mimcina, we had been joined by a Moor from Tafilet: he and his train were mounted upon mules, the animals most commonly used for travelling this stony road, which is apt to wound the feet of camels; those of Sidi-Aly were however obliged to carry his goods.
The Berbers had a barley-cake baked upon the ashes for our supper; each of us after this light repast, drank a glass of cold water, and lay down for the night on the stony ground.
On the 16th, at three in the morning, we proceeded slowly N. N. E., till near eight, when our course was changed to the north. Our march lay over a very mountainous soil, covered with sharp stones, which were very troublesome. The mountains are not high, and composed of granite without any appearance of vegetation. The Moor Sidi-Boby, who still perpetually insulted me, threw a stone at me, which striking me on the right side, hurt me much, and I retained the mark of it a considerable time: this brute had no other cause for such savage treatment than my having mounted my camel without giving him notice. Old Aly, seated upon his, had preceded us; immediately on rejoining him, I complained of the outrageous treatment to which I had been exposed; but he paid little attention to me and answered laughing: “That is nothing, all will be well.” Exasperated by his conduct, I told him that if all was well with him, all was very ill with me: he was silent, and turned his head another way. I ought to repeat here that it was to the two Trajacant marabouts alone that I was indebted for not encountering still worse treatment from such men, in the journey between el-Drah and Tafilet: I thanked them for it; but for them I should have been obliged either to desert, or to seek another guide to conduct me to Ghourland. The Moors of my company were restrained from doing me greater mischief solely by the fear of passing for infidels.
About ten in the morning, we halted near the wells of Faratissa, agreeably shaded by beautiful palms: in the environs are some veins of sand, studded with patches of grass on which the camels are accustomed to browse; stunted mimosas are also scattered around. The wells are but two feet and a half deep; the water is very good.
From el-Drah, our little party had been increased by several Moors; they all assembled round the wells, and talked much about me; with the exception of my guide all appeared to take an interest in my fate: fears were expressed that on my arrival in Alexandria I might not meet with any parents. “Poor young man,” said they, “what will he do all alone?” I told them that I had full confidence in God, who had supported me through a thousand dangers and would not abandon me at the moment of reaching port. “In short,” said I, “if God has called to himself my father and mother, he will have left me a brother and a sister.”
On such occasions Aly spoke highly in my favour and even pitied me: this day he carried his kindness so far as to shave my head, a compliment which I would willingly have dispensed with; but, as it was a religious duty, I could not complain. In the very act he proved his hypocrisy by insulting me, and encouraging his slaves to follow his example. To escape these persecutions, I took refuge in the tents of the Moors, our fellow-travellers, where we passed the night under the palms, the coolness of whose foliage invited us to sleep. The camels and mules not having had water the whole day, we rested till three in the afternoon of the 17th.
The intense heat having then moderated, we proceeded northward, over a soil similar to that of the preceding day. About half past six we stopped, and each of us supped upon a piece of barley-cake and some dates. After this meagre repast, we again stretched ourselves upon the stony ground, where I slept soundly till about three in the morning of the 18th, when we started afresh.
As my guide was fearful of fatiguing his camel, he obliged me to walk the whole morning: I therefore followed on foot the little caravan, which slowly advanced towards the N. N. E. over a gravelly soil; the face of the country was covered with hills composed of rocks of granite. About nine in the morning, we halted at the wells of Bohayara, around which the vegetation is luxuriant; they are twelve feet deep, and sunk in grey sand, mingled with coarse gravel. They are very near to a camp of Berbers, who water their sheep and goats at them: these men inhabit the passes of the mountains, where they feed numerous flocks of sheep and herds of camels, and cultivate a little barley and wheat. They are rovers, but change their place of abode less frequently than the Moors, and whenever occasion calls them to a distance from their little fields, they always leave some one behind to take care of them.
I found the Berber women much cleaner and less curious than the Moorish. They dress like the latter in old rags, but take care to wash them. These women, whose good looks proclaim that they live in plenty, colour the tips of their noses and chins blue; they envelop their heads in ragged cloths of red or white worsted, and wear their hair in tufts behind their ears, and fastened in rolls at the back of their heads. Their principal ornaments consist of necklaces of amber, coral, and various kinds of glass-beads, and in silver bracelets and anclets; their skin however appeared to be as dirty as that of the Moorish females of el-Harib. They are industrious, and employ themselves in spinning the wool of their sheep, and weaving the yarn into blankets, which they sell at Tafilet. These Berbers have a peculiar idiom, which the Arabs do not speak; they also conform to the religion of Mahomet; they have several wives, who superintend all the household concerns, prepare the food, take care of the sheep, and have besides the laborious task of drawing water for them to drink. They pasture their flocks in the passes of the mountains wheresover they can find herbage, for the appearance of their own country is absolutely bare. Hills of granite, of moderate height, but totally destitute of vegetation, meet the eye on all sides. This wandering and pastoral tribe subsist like the Moors, upon dates and sangleh made of barley; they often make their supper upon couscous, or barley-cake, baked upon the ashes. In the rainy season, the milk of their flocks, being then more abundant, forms a portion of their nourishment. Such of them as live in the villages have houses in the Moorish style, built like those of the Arab inhabitants of the towns: the rovers have only tents, the coverings of which are made of the hair of their camels. They grow but little grain, the land which they occupy being scarcely fit for cultivation; but here and there may be traced veins of more fertile earth which they turn to good account.
Their cookery, like that of the Moors of el-Harib, is performed in large copper vessels, manufactured by native smiths. It is astonishing that they escape being poisoned by the verdigris, for the Moorish women are so excessively dirty that they never wash their utensils, merely rubbing off with the hand what adheres to the sides.
The Berbers encamped at Bohayara presented Sidi-Aly and our escort with a sheep, which had a particularly fine fleece, and was killed by the Berbers of our company for our supper. As we had no vessel to boil it in, our guides had recourse to the ingenious expedient of picking up a number of large smooth calcareous stones, with which they formed a small oven, and heated it with roots of hedysarum alhagi, the only combustible that grows in this part. The entrails of the sheep were converted into chitterlings and the carcase was cut into many small parts.
The oven, when strongly heated, was carefully swept, and the pieces of mutton put in one upon another; it was then hermetically sealed with loose sand. When the meat was properly dressed, the chief of our Berbers, who was a lover of justice, secured its impartial distribution by giving each of us a bit of wood, which, being duly marked, was brought to one of the Moors appointed for the purpose. He was ordered to shake them together, and taking them up at random, to place each upon a piece of the meat: thus every one was entitled to his own lot. I had also my share, for which I was solely indebted to the chief of the Berbers, who had been often indignant at the conduct of the Moors towards me. The meat was pretty good, served with cleanliness, and perfectly well dressed.
On the 19th of July, at four in the morning, we quitted the delicious wells of Bohayara, slowly directing our course N. N. E. over a soil covered with small grey gravel; on either side of our route was a chain of low, bare hills, containing abundance of black granite, in huge detached blocks; and the country was still naked, presenting its usual appearance of frightful sterility.
About ten, after proceeding at the rate of three miles an hour, the wells of Goud-Zenaga afforded us a resting place; here we found some Berbers from an adjacent camp who were watering their flocks. The aspect of the country around led me into reflections upon the habits and character of these people; it seems inconceivable how they can contentedly take up their abode in such dreary regions, producing nothing but scanty herbage, and neither tree nor shrub of any kind.
On the 20th, at four A. M. we again pursued our course to N. N. E., over a nearly similar soil, but somewhat stony; the chain of hills still continued equally bare.
At eleven, we halted at the wells of Zénatyia, twenty or twenty-four feet deep, yielding abundance of tolerably good water. The surrounding soil presents a pleasing appearance of vegetation; some mimosas and zizyphus lotus flourish there, together with a number of very tall tamarisks, which afforded us an agreeable shade. The level is broken by hills of loose white sand, the abode of numerous antelopes, one of which was killed by a Moor of our party, and divided amongst the whole caravan, allowing only a small share to each.
A day’s journey N. W. of the wells of Zénatyia, is a Berber town, called el-Yabo, and one of its inhabitants who belonged to our caravan parted from us here to return home. The husbandmen of el-Yabo extend their labours, during the rainy season, as far as Zénatyia, preparing the ground for wheat and barley, which they cultivate in small quantities.
On the 21st, we again proceeded towards N. N. E., at four in the morning, travelling three miles in about an hour, among the hills of loose sand. We then came to a plain of smooth sand firmer than that of the hills, covered with small gravel and pebbles. About ten, we halted at the wells of Chanérou, where we found some Berbers watering their sheep, the fleeces of which are remarkably white.
Near these wells I observed a small shed, constructed of the branches of the zizyphus lotus, and covered with straw and brambles: here I took shelter in company with some Moors, and three Berber women, who left the task of questioning me to the men, paid apparently but little attention to my adventures, when cursorily related to them; but my person seemed to attract much of their notice, and to please them greatly. Now and then I asked them for some water; which they good-humouredly gave me from the bucket, carefully holding it in a position that enabled me to drink with ease.
The plain, in which these wells are situated, is gravelly, interspersed with rocks, and inclosed by sterile hills, which seem to be about three hundred and fifty feet in height. A little grass grows in the clefts of these rocks, and serves the sheep for pasturage. We had been joined in the morning by a Moor from Tafilet, who came to meet his father. The old man, whose name was Sidi-Abdoul-Rahman, was about fifty-five or sixty years of age, and nearly bald: he was returning to his native village, Ghourland, after a long residence at Timbuctoo; where he had seen Major Laing, as he informed me by the way. His son brought him some black grapes for his refreshment; he gave me a bunch with a small bit of wheaten bread, which I accepted with pleasure. Little, indeed, had I expected to eat fresh bread and grapes in so sterile a country! In the evening, some troops of Berbers came to water their flocks. Sidi-Aly proposed to buy a sheep for our supper, the Berbers of another troop joined us, and twenty of them contributed towards this purchase; each gave for his share a dragme, the coin of the country, worth about eight French sous. Sidi-Aly whom I had allowed to see that I possessed three or four shillings, consented to lend me this dragme, which I promised to repay on our arrival at Tafilet. I must here anticipate by observing, as a fact which greatly surprised me, that at parting he would not accept payment; desiring that I would keep this piece of money to assist me on my journey to Fez, and saying that he gave it me for the love of God. It was doubtless from remorse of conscience which he wished to silence at a cheap rate. The mutton thus procured, and which was dressed like the last, proved delicious, though it had not been so carefully cleaned.
On the 22nd, at two o’clock in the morning, we set off in a N. N. E. direction; the soil still the same, and the mountains extending on both sides of our route. About ten in the forenoon we halted at the wells of Nyéla, (or Ain-Yela) the water of which is abundant and good; they are situated in a very stony ravine, and so shallow that the water is taken up by hand. The heat was extreme, and our only shelter some of the zizyphus lotus.
At a short distance south of the wells is seen a high mountain of granite, in the crevices of which there are a few patches of verdure: I observed on its declevity a flock of sheep, which appeared no larger than young lambs. This mountain is nearly pointed, and rises to the height of one hundred and fifty or two hundred fathoms above the level of a very stony soil. When my fellow-travellers had retired to rest for the night I went to the wells with a satala, and washed myself in the cold water, which afforded me much comfort; returning afterwards to my companions and lying down on the ground, I slept soundly till three o’clock in the morning.
On the 23rd, I was still half asleep when we set out, proceeding for the first half hour in a N. N. E. direction; we afterwards turned to the N. E., till six in the morning, and, quitting the barren mountains, descended into a plain of very hard grey sand, susceptible of cultivation.
From this plain we beheld the beautiful and majestic palm-trees of the country of Tafilet, an enchanting prospect and one which raised my spirits by announcing the speedy alleviation of my sufferings. We passed through fields, separated, some by earth walls, and others by narrow ditches. The country was beautiful, but parched up by the scorching heat of the sun, which left no other verdure than the evergreen leaves of the palm. About nine in the morning we reached Ghourland, and were presently surrounded by a crowd of children, attracted by curiosity. We encamped under the shade of the palm-trees, at the gates of the town. When the arrival of our caravan from the Soudan was reported, numbers of dirty and ill-clad Moors and Jews came to meet us, and soon surrounded the baggage: many of my companions warned me to be careful of my leathern bag and of my pagnes, or they would be stolen, even off my back; they advised me not to go too far from the village, because there were thieves, who, in the supposition that I had brought much gold from the Soudan, might attack me. The Moorish merchants who came for their goods made a single mule carry the burden of a camel. I took mine upon my shoulder and followed my guide to the house of old Haggi-Le-Mekke, the chief of Ghourland. I passed in my way through several long and narrow streets, and arrived at the house of my new host. An inner court formed the entrance both to the chambers and magazines. Part of this court was covered by a shed, supported by trunks of palm-trees, in the middle of which was a sort of sky-light. A staircase of earth led to the terraced roof of the house. I deposited the bag containing my notes in a locked-up warehouse, and, the bag itself being padlocked, I was set at ease respecting the curiosity of the Moors. Our host gave us for breakfast some excellent dates, so ripe that they resembled preserves, and added a small piece of new wheaten bread: this would have been a sumptuous regale, had not the water which we drank with it been brackish. The young sons of Haggi received me kindly; they congratulated me more particularly upon the resolution I had taken to forsake the christians and unite myself with the Musulmans; telling me that I was under the special protection of God, and that all who should do me good would be favorites with the prophet. I need not, they added, feel any further uneasiness as to my return to my country; now that I was at Tafilet, I should find no difficulty in reaching the place of my birth, and they would themselves defray the expense of my journey to Fez, which should cost me nothing. In conclusion, they invited me to remain with them, assuring me that they would supply all my wants.
My new hosts seemed so well disposed towards me that I expected an apartment at their house, but was disappointed, for, after breakfast, they recommended me to go and engage a lodging at the mosque, an edifice destined at once for the service of God and the reception of travellers. In fact, I there met with several strangers, who surrounded me and overwhelmed me with questions.
About two in the afternoon, I returned to the house of my host, to relieve the weariness which this importunate curiosity occasioned me, and was greatly astonished to find the same young men, who in the morning had expressed so much affection for me, now refuse me admittance. After having explained that they treated me thus on account of their women, they asked me if I wanted food, and, giving me about two ounces of bread with some dates, left me seated upon the ground at the door. After having taken this slight repast I returned to the mosque. About ten o’clock, the negro slaves came to call Sidi-Aly and his people to supper: as he would not allow me to eat with him, I received no notice; however, finding the time elapse, and being by no means disposed to lose my supper, I determined to seat myself at the door of my host’s house. The slaves, as they passed, inquired what I wanted; I answered that I had had no supper, and begged they would inform their master: they executed my commission, and returned saying, that I ought to have shared the supper of Sidi-Aly and his suite. I then described their misconduct towards me, at which they were indignant, saying, that he and his were infidels; and, desiring me to wait a moment, they brought me an ample quantity of bad barley couscous, with a small bit of beef. I afterwards went to sleep under the roof of the mosque, among the Moors, who were necessitated like myself to take refuge there. As the sons of Haggi-Le-Mekke had represented to me, no stranger is here admitted into the interior of the houses, lest the women, who are not allowed to see any other men but those of their family, might be exposed to indiscreet observation: consequently travellers obtain an asylum for the night in the mosques, and the host at whose house they alight sends them their meals; they send for them at supper time, but receive them in a very dark corridor.
At eight o’clock in the morning, I went to my host’s for my breakfast, and seated myself, as on the preceding afternoon, at the door, waiting for an invitation. The youngest son of the family soon came, and inquired very kindly if I had breakfasted; on my answering in the negative, he ordered a slave to bring me some dates and gruel made of barley-meal: this gruel is very thin, and serves for a beverage in eating the fruit; with bread or couscous they drink nothing but water. With a stomach thus slightly supported the stranger is obliged to await the hour of supper, when a little couscous is given him; this is the nourishment they provide for those who ask hospitality of them, and for their slaves. The masters drink with their breakfast a very thin gruel made of wheat flour, and dine upon new bread and the fruits of the season; they have abundance of fine melons, of which they are very fond; and the richer inhabitants of Tafilet breakfast upon tea with bread and figs. At ten at night, the usual hour of supper, they eat couscous made of wheat flour, dressed with mutton or poultry, for they rear some domestic fowls.
While sitting at the corner of a street I made acquaintance with a Moor, named Sidi-Baubacar; who put some questions to me very prudently, and appeared to interest himself in my situation; he is a very mild and good man. He had travelled to Cape Mogador and to Morocco, and in the former town had had much intercourse with the christians, whom, in common with all other Moors, he detested. He shewed some taste for the sciences and was desirous of instruction, had learned arithmetic, and was well acquainted with its first three rules, in which he could prove his calculations. He was in the habit of writing upon a slate, which he brought to me, and we made some calculations together. This man was somewhat of an enthusiast, and conceived a friendship for me; he spoke much of the knowledge of the Europeans, which he considered as vastly superior to that of the Moors, and shewed me a watch to which he attached much value, because he was the only person in the country who had one. It was at his house that I saw the English pocket compass, which I formerly mentioned. He talked of Bonaparte and his campaigns in Egypt, asked if it was during his residence among the Musulmans that I was made prisoner, and said that he was at Tripoli about that time; finally he inquired my age; as I was covered with rags, was ill, and my complexion scorched almost to blackness by the heat of the sun, I appeared older than I really was; he had therefore no difficulty in believing that I was thirty-four years of age.
On the 26th, I proposed to a poor Jew named Jacob, to purchase of me a shilling by weight, because, as this coin was not current in the country, and he was a smith and a worker in gold and silver, he could turn it to account in his trade. He required me, for this purpose, to come to his house, to satisfy his curiosity no doubt; however the proposal also answered mine, for I knew not by what method to obtain admission to the interior of even one house. I entered then the humble dwelling of this Jew; who conducted me through two small low rooms, very dark and exceedingly dirty, into a third, somewhat larger, which received light and air only by a small opening in the roof: this opening is common to all the apartments in the interior of the house, the dwellings of the Jews being as simply constructed as those of the Moors.
Jacob, who did not possess a mat, was obliged to seat me upon the ground. He opened a closet, and fetched some nuts which he presented to me, adding a fine slice of melon and a large piece of wheaten bread, of the preceding day’s baking. His wife and aged mother, seated beside me, examined me with insatiable curiosity; they appeared mild and timid, but nevertheless, addressed several questions to me relative to the countries inhabited by the christians. I observed in this room two large sacks of corn for the family provision, some fowls, and a dog, the guard of the house: in one corner was collected the dirt of several days’ sweeping. After partaking of the Jew’s hospitable collation I took leave of these good people. A negro slave had accompanied me, fearing, he said, lest these infidels should insult me. Jacob desired me to return on the following day, when he would change my piece of money; for, my visit having been made on Saturday, no business could be transacted. The Moors, inquisitive and troublesome, were far less generous; they offered me nothing but their bad dates, and even of these they were liberal only because they could not themselves consume their superfluity.
On the 27th, I accompanied Sidi-Boubacar to a market, which is held three times a week near a village called Boheim about three miles N. of Ghourland: Boubacar mounted a fine mule, and myself an ass, destined to carry the provisions on our return.
This market is held in a beautiful spot surrounded by palm-trees; it contains many clay huts for the accommodation of the dealers in stuffs, mercery, and spices, and the butchers. The Berbers and Arabs from the adjacent villages come hither to sell their merchandise: they bring cattle, corn, fruit, and green vegetables, and in return purchase the stuffs of the merchants. As I expressed a desire to take a particular survey of the market, my companion ordered one of his people to attend me, assuring me, that if, as a stranger, I was found there alone, the very clothes I had on would be stolen. I was astonished at the variety of articles exhibited in this market. I saw there great abundance of fine herbs, cabbages, turnips, onions, peas, and dried beans, indigenous fruits, such as raisins, white and black currants, pears, nuts gourds, and melons of a fine sort; green lucern for the horses, and many productions of Europe; also fowls and boiled eggs; I bought half a dozen of the latter for the value of six farthings of our money. I observed sheep of an astonishing size, covered with very fine white wool.
Water sellers, with their full bottles, walked to and fro in the market, with a little bell to give notice to all who wished to drink, for the heat here is most oppressive. There is no scarcity of wells in the market, but they are very deep, and as strangers have not ropes to reach them, much water is sold, though it is rather brackish. I beheld asses and mules laden with the productions of nature and industry arriving from all quarters, and might easily have fancied myself transported into a well stocked European market. I bought some figs and raisins for my refreshment, together with a small wheaten loaf worth a sous. The Jews are the principal brokers: there are merchants established here who purchase from individuals the woollen goods manufactured at home, store them, and export them to other markets. No money is current here, except that of Morocco and Spain; the coin of other European countries is taken by weight. After traversing the great desert, almost deprived of the necessaries of life, the pleasure which I experienced in contemplating a market so richly furnished is indescribable, but I was obliged to return to the village with the slave to whose care Sidi-Boubacar had consigned me, and this man, when his purchases were completed, was unwilling to stay any longer.
On the 28th, Sidi-Boubacar, who was become much attached to me, sent me an invitation to his house, where he waited to receive me. He seated me on a fine carpet, spread in the court, under a little shed, and then requesting me to wait a moment, he went for a friend of his, a Moor of distinction. Soon afterwards a slave brought, upon a very clear copper waiter, a meat pasty fried in butter, and a fine slice of melon, bought on the preceding day at the market of Boheim: Sidi-Boubacar broke the pasty and his friend and I as well as himself did justice to it. In the evening Jacob the Jew changed my shilling, which enabled me on the succeeding days to buy a little bread. The same day, being at the mosque, a Moor, whose father was recently dead, accosted me, and, slipping an eightpenny piece into the pocket of my coussabe, begged me to accept it for the love of God and the Prophet.
On the 29th, Haggi-Le-Mekke gave me notice that I must hold myself in readiness to set out for Fez. Unable, from the state of my health, to undertake so long a journey on foot, I made inquiries concerning the means of riding; I was in fact swelled and weak. I was asked if I had dragmes sufficient to pay for a mule: I could have done so, but thinking it not prudent to confess it, I preferred pleading poverty, and hoped that the sale of my two blue pagnes of Soudan would produce enough. Three days previously I had confided them to a son of my host’s for the purpose of sale, but I was now advised to carry them to the market of Boheim, whence the caravan was to set out; I repaired thither with the intention of seeing the bacha or governor, to ask assistance from him.
On quitting Ghourland, I was accompanied by a muleteer mounted upon an ass; this man was charged by Haggi-Le-Mekke to conduct me to Sidi-Habib-Benani, who resided at Boheim and was chief of the caravan going to Fez, to whom he gave me particular recommendations. On the road I was stopped by the Berbers going to the market, who, perceiving that I was a stranger, surrounded me to the number of twenty or thirty, saying all together, “Who are you? Whither are you going?” They all pulled me by my dress and gave me no time to answer: at length they carried off my pagne and would have stolen my bag also, had I not on setting out intrusted it to my guide, who, mounted upon an ass, with a Berber behind him, had gone on before me, without troubling himself whether I was able to follow or not. The thieves, not content with my pagne, were about to take my coussabe also, when Haggi-Lemedan, (my guide,) to whom the Moors of his acquaintance had given notice of my situation, returned at full gallop with his Berber; and the latter made the plunderers restore all they had stolen from me. Soon after this vexatious accident, we reached the market, which I found as well supplied as the first time I visited it. On the road I had met two mounted Berbers pursuing at full speed, with loaded guns, two Arab horsemen, who were galloping off with the utmost precipitation. When the market was over, I went, accompanied by my guide, to Sidi-Habib-Benani’s, who sent me to take a lodging in the loft of the mosque; about ten in the evening he supplied me with a very good couscous.
On the morning of the 30th of July, I seated myself modestly on the ground at my host’s door, being well aware that he would not have the complaisance to send my breakfast to this public lodging; as soon as he perceived me at prayers with my chaplet in my hand, he sent me some wheaten gruel but without dates. At ten o’clock, I requested a Moor to conduct me to the residence of Sidi-Habib-Bacha, at the small town of Ressant, two gun-shots north of Boheim. This man obligingly complied, and we set out; but we learned on arrival that the Bacha, who was indisposed, would not come thither that day, and that he seemed to intend spending it at his private house at Sosso, a village situated about a mile and a half S. E. of Boheim. As I expressed a strong desire to repair thither, my honest Moor procured a man of the village, in the service of the Bacha, to accompany me to the latter. On my arrival I was conducted through a large court, tolerably clean, into another and smaller one, at the gate of which two sentinels were sitting upon the ground, with their muskets resting against a wall. My arrival was announced to the Bacha, who gave orders for my being shewn in I found this Arab grandee seated, without ostentation, on a mat, upon the ground, under a shed, near the wells, which diffused a pleasant coolness. There were two Moors in attendance, playing as it were, the part of courtiers. The Bacha gave me a favourable reception and inquired the cause which had brought me into his presence. I shortly recapitulated to him the various circumstances which had occasioned me to take so long and arduous a journey across the Soudan and the desert; informing him that I was from Alexandria, whither I was anxious to return, but that from poverty I had no means of conveyance thither; and being in ill-health in consequence of the fatigues, which I had undergone, I could not travel so great a distance on foot. Amongst the numerous questions which he put to me, he asked how I had defrayed the expenses of my route since I had quitted the negro countries: to which I replied, flattering Musulman generosity, that every one had contributed a small donation to the relief of my wants. He afterwards turned the conversation to the Europeans, ridiculing their faith. One of his Moors, a very corpulent man, hereupon sneeringly observed, “Why, as Jesus is the Son of God, did he suffer himself to be crucified by the Jews?” As this question was pointed at me, I replied, that I was in no way concerned to support a cause the merits of which I did not understand, and that the Christians must discuss his objection. The Bacha then sent for his steward and commanded him to give me some dates, which were brought in a small straw basket, but of which I declined eating though I was politely pressed. By order of this chief, I was reconducted by one of his sentinels to my host at Boheim, with an invitation to repeat my visit on the following day at his government residence; he also sent instructions to Sidi-Mohammed, the sherif who had accompanied me in the morning, to repair thither with me.
On the morning of the 31st, I did not fail to wait with the sherif for the Bacha, on his road to the town. We stood up immediately upon perceiving him. He rode a fine grey horse, and was escorted by two soldiers, each armed with a musket. He halted for a moment before us: the sherif, in accosting him, respectfully kissed his white tunic; the Bacha spoke a few words to him in a low tone, after which, raising his voice a little, he informed me that I must remain at Ghourland till further orders, I readily concluded that I had nothing to hope from his highness; and, returning to my village, Mohammed confirmed me in my opinion. Sidi-Habib-Benani had set out in the morning for Fez; having refused to give me a mule or any other conveyance for three mitkhals of silver, the produce of the sale of my two pagnes: thus I found myself at Boheim, without knowing how to leave it. I had a very good coussabe, which Abdallah-Chebir had given me at Timbuctoo; and I determined, at the risk of going away without clothing, to sell it in the market, and endeavour to hire an ass, so that I might be able to set out the day after the morrow with a caravan going to Fez: the eldest son of Benani, a merchant by profession, sold my coussabe for two mitkhals, which, with the three others, sufficed to hire an ass. At ten at night, I went as usual to present myself at the gate of my host’s son, from whom, during the day, I had received as a present some bread and a bunch of grapes: he also sent me a supper and I went to bed under the sacred roof of the mosque. The court of this structure was locked and the inmates could not open it during the night; a circumstance which had nearly drawn me into grievous trouble. This court enclosed the tomb of a holy sherif, long since deceased: the following morning, my fellow-lodgers were scandalized to perceive that this revered sepulchre had been soiled during the night; a universal cry of indignation arose, and all eyes were turned upon me. Amazed and confounded, I had not courage to assert my innocence; my only excuse was ignorance of the localities, and I protested, with perfect truth, that the profanation was not wilful but purely accidental. This sincere allegation was, however, far from calming the tumult, and I know not how serious the consequences might have been, had not some old men fortunately determined to intercede in my favour. They represented that my situation as a stranger should be taken into consideration; that I was undoubtedly ignorant of the existence of a tomb in this place; but that, supposing me even acquainted with the fact, it was impossible I could have learned amongst christians to respect that which is the object of homage to all good Musulmans; that some indulgence should, therefore, be shewn to my want of knowledge. This plea made an impression and the matter dropped.
On the 1st of August, I repaired in the morning to the gate of my host to seek my breakfast; but I waited till two in the afternoon without obtaining any thing. At this time several Moors were collected and beginning to question me; but I told them that I was suffering too much from hunger to be in a condition to answer them, having eaten nothing the whole day. A zealous Musulman offered to give me a loaf for the love of God, if I would accept it; and I was too much famished to refuse it, hard as it was.
On the 2nd; the caravan prepared to depart for Fez; the man whose ass I had hired had received my earnest, and I waited for him in the village where he had engaged to take me up. Before taking leave of this country I will give a succinct description of it.
CHAPTER XXVI.
Description of Tafilet and its commerce — Flourishing state of agriculture and industry — Miserable condition of the Jews; their habits and customs — Afilé — Gardens — Tanneyara, Marca, M’Dayara, Rahaba — Chains of granite mountains — Small river of Guigo — L’Eyarac, Tamaroc, Kars, Ain-Zeland, L’Eksebi — Very high mountains covered with cork-trees — L’Ouin — Guigo — Town of Soforo — Town of el-Fez, or Fez, the ancient capital of Morocco.
The Tafilet is a small district forming, like el-Drah, part of the dominions of the Emperor of Morocco. Its inhabitants pay some imposts to this monarch, who maintains a bacha or governor, resident at Ressant, a town distinguished by a magnificent gateway, surrounded with various coloured Dutch tiles, symmetrically arranged in a diamond pattern.
The villages of Ghourland, L’Eksebi, Sosso, and Boheim, in the same line, all S. E. of Ressant, are pretty near each other: those which I have had an opportunity of examining, are nearly of equal size, and contain about eleven or twelve hundred inhabitants, all land-holders or merchants. The soil of Tafilet is level, composed of sand of an ash grey, and very productive; much corn, and all sorts of European fruits and vegetables, are cultivated here; lucern thrives well, and when dry is stored for winter provender.
The natives have fine sheep, with remarkably white wool; they use it in making very handsome wrappers, which are woven by the women. They have also some horned cattle, though fewer than the roving tribes, excellent horses, some asses, and many good mules. The horses are for the most part the property of the Berbers, who are very numerously established in Tafilet, but less addicted to pillage than those of el-Drah, and indeed formidable to strangers alone.
This country is in general very agreeable: its inhabitants carry on a considerable commerce with the Soudan and el-Arawan, whither they export tobacco in leaves of their own growing, together with European commodities; and receive in exchange gold, ivory, gum, ostrich-feathers, dried provisions, and slaves; for, unhappily, the infamous traffic in the latter exists in full vigour in this part of Africa. The commodities which the merchants dispatch to Timbuctoo, through the medium of the roving Moors of el-Harib, who may be considered as the carriers of the Soudan, are transported on camels to the confines of the desert by the Berbers, who deliver them to the Moors engaged to convey them to their destination. The Berbers receive a tribute for this service, a species of indemnity given to them by agreement, since they do not, like the Arabs, extend their travels through all the negro countries. If the merchants were to neglect this prudent precaution, their caravans would be pillaged by these barbarians, as they sometimes are by the Touariks. I have already said that the most distinguished Moors of Tafilet usually settle at Timbuctoo, in the hope of making a fortune, as amongst us Europe is left for the new world: these Moors, after devoting five or six years to commerce, purchase gold and slaves, and return to live peaceably in their own country.
The soil of Tafilet is very good, and produces all the necessaries of life. The numberless date-trees surrounding each property furnish their owners with a plentiful subsistence and a considerable branch of commerce. They sell a quantity of dates in all the dependencies of Morocco, and especially in the towns situated on the sea-coast.
The population of this district is divided into several classes, and the distinction of social ranks is rigorously observed. Labourers by the day or month are considered as belonging to the lowest grade; those who esteem themselves of a higher order treat them as a very inferior race of beings. There are also in Tafilet many negro slaves, and some emancipated negroes, who, however, are never suffered to intermarry with the Moors; even the children born of a negress and a Moor, by a clandestine union, have no acknowledged condition in the country, and can never emerge from the lowest classes.
The inhabitants of Tafilet tan a great quantity of leather; they make excellent morocco, which is much esteemed in commerce, and finds at Fez a ready market. The people of this country are more industrious than I have any where remarked, in the different parts of Africa which I have visited.
Every one brings to the market the fruit of his labour; there may be seen in abundance woollen wrappers, coussabes, tanned leather, pagnes, shoes, mats, wooden trenchers, in short all the manufactures of the country.
Each proprietor is accustomed to enclose his lands either with an earth wall or a ditch; all the villages are walled, and those I have seen have but one gate of entrance, which is shut every evening. The inhabitants rear much poultry, as large as ours, and eat the eggs boiled. They have pigeons, but these birds are scarce. Some individuals keep a dog and a cat, which live upon dates.
Throughout the districts of el-Drah and Tafilet are found Jews, who inhabit the same villages with the Musulmans; they are in a pitiable condition, wandering about almost naked, and continually insulted by the Moors; these fanatics even beat them shamefully, and throw stones at them as at dogs: the smallest children may abuse them with impunity, since they dare not revenge themselves, and cannot expect protection from authority. I have frequently been so excited myself as to threaten these little revilers with severe chastisement.
The Jews of Tafilet are excessively dirty, and always go barefoot, perhaps to avoid the inconvenience of frequently taking off their sandals, which they are compelled to do in passing before a mosque or the door of a sherif. They are clothed in a shabby coussabe, and a very dirty white cloak, of little more value, which passes under the left arm, and is fastened over the right shoulder. They shave their heads after the example of the Moors, but leave a tuft of hair which falls over the forehead. Some are pedlars, others artizans; they manufacture shoes and mats from palm-leaves; some of them also are blacksmiths. They lend their money upon usury to the merchants trading in the Soudan, whither they never go themselves. Their only visible fortune consists in their houses, but they often take lands as a guarantee for the money which they lend. Money is always plentiful with the Jews: yet they affect the utmost poverty; because the Moors, who ascribe to them greater riches than they really possess, often persecute them for the purpose of extorting their gold: besides which, they not only pay tribute to the emperor and his agents, but are moreover harassed by the Berbers.
The Jews live better than the Mahometans, couscous and gruel forming but a small portion of their food; their bread is of wheat, kneaded and baked by themselves and their principal beverage, beer of their own brewing, though in the season of the vintage they make a little wine.
The Jewish, as well as Moorish women, wear a piece of stuff, twelve or fourteen feet long, about the body and thrown over the head, and go barefoot; their costume indeed differs only in the head-dress. They have on each side of the head a thick large tuft of hair hanging over the shoulder, about five inches in length and three in circumference, and they habitually cover their heads with a piece of coloured stuff, always dirty, like the rest of their garments.
The Jewesses whom I have seen in Tafilet are in general small, lively, and pretty: they have blue eyes, animated and expressive, aquiline nose, and a mouth of middling size; they are inquisitive, and very fond of talking. Drawing water, washing linen, fetching wood for cooking, in short all the household labours, fall to their share.
I shall not undertake to portray the Musulman women of Tafilet; I found it impossible to obtain a view of their faces: when out of doors they have the appearance of an uncouth moving mass, from an enormous woollen cloak, in which they are enveloped from head to foot, and which scarcely allows them to see the way they are going: it is only in the bosom of their families, and sometimes in the inner court, that they shew themselves unveiled. Care is taken to give the women notice to retire to their private apartments, when strangers are about to enter the dwelling upon any business.
A custom prevalent in the east obtains also here and is rigorously observed: when a common Moor passes a sherif he unties his sandals, takes them in his hand, and makes a low and respectful obeisance.
On the 2nd of August, about half past four P. M. the caravan proceeded in a N. N. E. direction. We met on the road a vast number of Moors from the country, driving asses loaded with all sorts of productions, as melons, grapes, figs, and other fruit, and vegetables, going to a neighbouring market.
We crossed some fields, and passed near a walled village the name of which I have forgotten: continuing our route for the space of a mile to the N. N. E., we arrived at the village of Afilé, without which we halted at sun-set. It is situated near a considerable rivulet, called by the natives Sidi-Aiche, the water of which although brackish, is their only beverage: this rivulet runs slowly to the N. W. Plenty of barley for our beasts was brought, soon after our arrival, and some water-melons for the refreshment of the sherifs, of whom we had half a dozen in the caravan travelling to Fez to sell their dates; and who were not prevented by the insignificance of their traffic from assuming airs of importance.
Towards eleven at night, several large calabashes full of couscous, with the flesh of a kid killed for the purpose, were brought to us from the village; the bearers carried them on their heads, and were lighted by a taper. No sooner had these messes arrived than the descendants of Mahomet feasted voraciously, and gave what remained to the Moors of their train: care was taken to awaken all who were or pretended to be asleep. I was at the moment lying on the sand beside the baggage; and as no one seemed to pay any attention to me, I patiently resigned myself to the loss of my supper, although I had eaten nothing the whole day but some dates, given to me by my host at parting. At length a Moor from the village, walking about with his taper in his hand, discovered me, and asking who I was, led me to an immense dish of couscous, round which several Moors were assembled, and desired me to help myself. The Moor who presided at the repast placed some scraps of meat upon an old mule-cloth, and, when we had eaten the couscous, he gave to each a little bit of the reserved meat, tearing it with his dirty fingers.
On the 3rd of August, at half-past five in the morning, we again proceeded northward, through plantations entirely surrounded with earth walls, over which I perceived beautiful fruit trees, such as pears, figs, apricots, vines, and some rose bushes. These charming plains though rather deficient in moisture, often renewed the delightful remembrance of our European gardens. The sterility of the Sahara was still so impressed upon my imagination, that the plains of Tafilet appeared by comparison a terrestrial paradise.
About ten in the morning we passed Tanneyara, a little village, a mile to the east of our road, shaded by immense numbers of date-trees. Here our caravan was retarded by a troop of Arabs, to whom we were obliged, whether we would or not, to pay the passage-dues. This prank occasioned a great deal of confusion; the two parties had nearly come to blows; but fortunately no bad consequences ensued: the merchants gave a few dragmes, and the Arabs left us to continue our route, which lay over a dry and gravelly soil. The gently swelling hills which rose on either hand were apparently composed of red sand, and bore no vegetation: the heat was extreme, and we had no water to moisten our parched lips. At one in the afternoon we reached Marca, a large village enclosed by a wall twelve or fourteen feet high, and there halted.
We ran in haste to the wells, situated beyond the village, but could not draw water enough, having unfortunately no better bucket than an old leathern bag full of holes. My thirst being at length satisfied, I seated myself in the shade near the gate of the village; where many idle Moors were lying on their backs, waiting the call to supper: immediately upon perceiving me they rose with astonishment and asked each other, “Who is this man?” easily detecting me for a stranger by the costume I always wore, which was of Soudan stuff, and strikingly different from their own.
They assembled round me and overwhelmed me with questions. I was never taken at first sight by the Moors of Tafilet for an Arab; they always treated me at once as a stranger; redoubled artifice was necessary to deceive them: but when I declared myself to have been taken prisoner while very young by the army of Bonaparte, they appeared satisfied, and congratulated me upon the good resolution I had formed of returning to my country
At the gate of Marca, I met, by a singular accident, a Berber whom I had known at el-Harib: he received me with kindness, and immediately acquainted the assembly with my history. This Berber politely invited me to visit his humble cabin, of a single floor, where he seated me on a very clean mat, and his wife produced some dates which we ate together. She sat unveiled in a corner of a dark and dirty room employed in weaving a woollen wrapper. When we had eaten our dates, the Berber led me to the mosque, and introduced me to two sherifs, natural sons of the emperor: we found them at prayers: but no sooner had they finished than I was persecuted with questions; amongst others whether I had been circumcised either in the Soudan or at Alexandria: I replied that I was circumcised in my infancy previously to leaving my country, and I hastened to change the topic, these interrogatories being always distressing to me since they constrained me to repeated falsehoods. Fortunately my reply appeared satisfactory, and I took advantage of their discourse being directed for a moment to their pupils to leave them; they soon, however, sought me out at the gate of the village, where I was seated, placed themselves on the ground beside me, and displaying a New Testament in Latin and Arabic, asked me if I knew that book; I read a few passages to them, and they amused themselves with ridiculing the supposed credulity of the christians.
As the village was surrounded by pleasant walled gardens, I expressed a wish to see them. The youngest of the party instantly took me by the hand, and, followed by six other Moors, we walked to them. The young sherif when in his garden ordered some figs and grapes to be gathered, which he offered me very gracefully. I was particularly surprized by an almost French politeness in his manners; for example, never serving himself first, offering me the finest and ripest fruits, and even peeling them for me. I ate however but sparingly of fruit, fearing lest it might disagree with me. I saw in this garden melons, gombos, and a great variety of fruit-trees; it also contains a well thirty feet deep.
From the garden we returned to the mosque, where Sidi-Abdoul-Rahman, (this was the name of the young sherif) ordered one of his people to carry me some bread and honey; and desired me to remain till supper time, as he intended to provide me with that meal.
This good young man, about twenty-two years of age, favoured me with a very obliging invitation to spend some days with him at Marca, in order to recover from my fatigues, promising afterwards to forward me to Fez at his own expense. I thanked him heartily, but urged as an objection my impatience to reach home. The Berber brought me a handsome dish of mutton couscous; and a moment afterwards the sherif sent me a portion of his supper, and had the further kindness to order one of his household to accompany me with a lantern to our encampment.
On the 4th, at half after five in the morning, we departed, journeying N. N. W., amongst mountains and along the banks of a beautiful rivulet which fertilizes the neighbouring soil: the resident proprietors understand how to avail themselves of this resource; they form canals from it, by which they water their small possessions; by this method they are enabled to cultivate corn and maize in seasons of the greatest drought, and to produce abundance of fine melons. Some palms and fig-trees grow on the margin of this pretty rivulet; and I remarked throughout the route small habitations scattered at very small distances. We advanced more than two miles an hour notwithstanding the stony nature of the soil. At half past two P. M. we halted at M-Dayara, a town defended by a high wall and encompassed by a moat seven or eight feet in depth and of equal breadth. We entered by a large gate and passed the night here. When the cattle were unladen and the baggage arranged, my guide, the sherif, noble scion of the prophet, recommended me to repair to the mosque to seek my supper: without answering him, I remained some time seated upon a mat, near a Moor of the town, who seeing I was in no hurry to withdraw, and no doubt fearing the necessity of dividing his supper with me, advised me to rejoin my companions, and take my share of the provision which the town would provide for them. Thus repulsed on all sides I lay down beside the baggage: my illustrious muleteer angrily asked, why I did not remain at the mosque; to which I replied that he might go thither himself to seek his supper; this answer silenced him. Finding him so desirous to get rid of me, I thought that the Moors of the caravan intended to club together to purchase food, and determined to learn how this might be.
The sherif Sidi-Moula-Sitec, a man of high nobility and who enjoyed the imperial favour, travelled along with our caravan; he carried his wife with him, concealed under a scarlet pavilion, as well to preserve her from the intense heat as to screen her from our observation: at the halting-places, four persons assisted her to alight, and one of her women, who also appeared veiled in our presence, lifted up a corner of the curtain to admit the air.
Sidi-Moula-Sitec, whose provisions for himself and his suite were separately dressed, sent in the evening a copious supply of tea to his travelling companions; they took it while waiting the approach of supper time; and soon afterwards an enormous dish of couscous was sent to them, which was speedily divided among twelve or fourteen Moors, who disputed the possession of it. When my muleteer had satisfied his hunger, he put the two or three mouthfuls of couscous that remained, in a small basket, generally used for feeding his asses with barley, and brought it to me, I eagerly accepted this food, as I had eaten nothing all day but a few dates. After this slender repast, finding that I should not be permitted to remain beside the baggage, I went in search of a place where I might sleep in quiet, and lay down at the door of the mosque, near some travelling Moors, who were so much annoyed by my cough, for I had a severe cold, that in great anger they even struck me, to compel me to withdraw.
At five in the morning, I perceived by the arrangements which were making, that we should not set out before evening, and determined, though with repugnance, to beg in the town for some dates, a fruit so plentiful in this country. I first applied to an old Moor, who affected all the externals of devotion, but he shewed little sensibility for my misery, recommending me to trust in God who would assist me; a second brought me a handful of rotten dates, which I could not eat; and a third, whose mien announced more charity, gave me a considerable quantity, but they were harder and worse than those which I had eaten at el-Harib. Losing my fortitude, and undeceived on the subject of Musulman charity, so much vaunted among us, I returned to our baggage, and, presenting my acquisition of fruit to the asses which refused it, I breakfasted upon a handful of that which had been given me at Boheim. Part of the day was spent in shoeing the animals.
About three P.M, being all ready, we took our departure, and travelled N. W., over level and stony ground; the sun was setting as we reached Rahaba, where we encamped under the palm-trees, without the town. As I happened to be placed near the sherif Sidi-Moula-Sitec, who had shewn me, on the road, the unexampled courtesy of giving me a draught from the cup which he himself in general used, I went to thank him; he gave me a friendly reception, and, offering me his hand with a smile, told me that he had directed one of his suite to supply me with provisions all the way to Fez, and, to leave me under no uneasiness on this head, he renewed his order in my presence; but the profligate servant took little notice, and obeyed his master’s command for one night only.
On the 6th of August, at five in the morning, we continued our route northward, at first on very level ground; after which we reached a chain of mountains, stretching from E. N. E. to W. S. W., and struck into its gorges, following the course of a pretty little rivulet called Guigo; the road being extremely stony and difficult. About eight we passed L-Eyara, a village containing from twenty five to thirty houses, all ill-constructed with a ground-floor only; this village stands on a rock of black granite. Hitherto our direction was N. N. E., here we turned due north.
At one P. M. we halted at Tamaroc till the heat, which was intense, should abate: I lay down upon the grass, in the shade of a fine rose-laurel, pleasantly situated on the margin of the rivulet, the freshness and gentle murmurs of which inclined me to sleep. The hills on each side of the route had no great elevation, and appeared composed of brittle and coarse-grained rose-coloured granite, in some parts combined with white quartz. At three P. M., the heat having somewhat moderated, we proceeded northwards through the defiles till half past five; we then turned to the west, still following the sinuosities of the same rivulet. This stony road led us into a valley, well cropped with corn and maize, the verdant aspect of which amidst these barren mountains presented an enchanting spectacle. About seven in the evening we halted at Kars, where we passed the night. Between Tamaroc and this place, we saw no more palm-trees.
On the 7th at five A. M., we resumed our journey, first in a westerly, and subsequently in a northerly direction, still threading the defiles of the mountains, through a less fertile tract than that over which we had just passed; here though the country is still watered by the Guigo it is generally barren.
The roving Berbers, who encamp in these narrow valleys, find here and there a little forage for their cattle. About eleven o’clock we arrived at N-Zéland (or Ain-Zéland) our beasts being much fatigued. The hamlet is inhabited by Berbers, who breed fine sheep. As these people are accustomed to give nothing to the Moors, part of our caravan were compelled to forego their supper. The sherif Sidi-Moula-Sitec ordered a couscous, and sent a portion of it to the sherifs of the company; the Moors of inferior rank were not included in the distribution.
The Berbers, thinking to gain something by us, made cakes of barley-meal, which they sold for a good profit to those who had money: encouraged by the success of this traffic, they killed two sheep, which they cooked whole at a large fire, cut up into small pieces, and sold for four mouganans, a sum equivalent to eight sous of our money. But our company was so numerous that this provision proved insufficient, and those who could not obtain any ate dates only; a poor substitute for more nourishing food.
On the 8th of August, at three A. M., we quitted N-Zeland. The beast I rode being excessively fatigued, I was compelled to perform part of this day’s journey on foot; and still weak, I walked with difficulty over the flinty mountain roads, pausing every moment to recover breath. I was not singular in my misfortune, many of our people were on foot, for the poor animals could scarcely drag themselves along. Till eight o’clock we proceeded northward, then for one hour westward, and afterwards turned again to the north. The road was so bad that the asses sunk under their burdens; their haunches were galled by the friction of a girth, which it is customary here to pass over the rump in the fashion of a crupper, to prevent the load from slipping forward in descending steep declivities, while another, which girds the breast, performs the same service in ascending. The guides without any remorse struck these poor animals severe blows to quicken their pace. At two P. M., overcome with fatigue, we reached L-Eksebi, where we halted: this pretty village is encompassed by a good wall, and contains about eight hundred inhabitants; it is situated on an extensive plain, watered by the windings of the rivulet which I have before mentioned, and surrounded by high mountains wholly destitute of vegetation. The plain is well cultivated, and even embellished by some olive-trees. On our arrival, the inhabitants, all Moors, opened a market, where we found in abundance bread, meat, raisins, and figs, which were all sold by weight. Near this market is a kind of caravansera, where travellers are received on payment of a small remuneration for the animals only; these are lodged in little galleries constructed for the purpose, and the men sleep near them on the ground.
As the dates presented to me by my host of Boheim were now exhausted, and I had nothing whatever to eat, I determined to beg some, not of the towns-people, for as the palm-trees do not grow in the vicinity they are dear here, but of a young Moor of our own caravan, who obligingly gave me some.
On the 9th, we set out at five in the morning, directing our route to the north; about seven we turned to the W. N. W. ascending hills from one hundred to one hundred and twenty-five feet above the surface of the plain. In every direction similar eminences meet the eye, all exhibiting, with the exception of a few cork-trees, complete sterility. Exhausted with fatigue, I feared that it would be impossible to continue my journey; my limbs bent under me, and I was compelled to sit down continually; my courage was ready to forsake me: this ascent was indeed a terrible task for my enfeebled powers. By the blessing of God we attained the summit by nine o’clock; and thence descended into an extensive and beautiful plain, surrounded by high lands, which were mostly barren of vegetation. Four times in the course of the day our caravan was stopped by the Arabs, who had encamped by the road-side, to obtain payment of the passage dues, which was made in dates, and bread baked a second time in the oven; I was told that they acted under the sultan’s orders. Some Berbers as we passed spread a pagne beside the road, that a few dates might be thrown to them: this fruit is scarce and dear in this part of the country; and some of them brought us water in exchange. About three o’clock we arrived at L-Guim, a small Moorish village, where some cultivation is visible and some forage may be obtained, but the general aspect of the country is sterile and dry; not a single tree is to be seen. I supped upon some pieces of barley bread, baked a second time, and which I steeped in a little water. This bread Sidi-Moula-Sitec had sent me as a present, the evening before, by one of his servants. After this repast I lay down near a field of maize, making my pillow upon a ridge between its furrows.
At five in the morning of the 10th, we set out again, our route lying W. N. W.; at seven we turned to the north through defiles of arid and stony mountains; at ten to the N. N. W. The landscape, interspersed with lofty eminences, has a most dreary appearance; on some of them only grows a quantity of box to the height of about eighteen inches, the leaves of which were dry and yellow. In the level parts we saw some Arab tents from which at our approach the children issued to beg dates. About three P. M. we reached Guigo, a small Berber village: its environs are naked, without any trace of cultivation, and the wells are so distant, that it is not easy to procure water without paying in dates, of which I had no more, and was obliged to have recourse to charity for a draught; I applied to several Moors, who all repulsed me like a dog, and bade me slake my thirst at the fountain.
The heat, which had been intense, moderated towards evening; just before our arrival a slight thunder-shower fell, which continued for a quarter of an hour, and greatly cooled the atmosphere. A sherif, who had long suffered from a bad foot, gave me some water and a small cake of wheat and aniseed, on condition that I should furnish him with a remedy; I had still a little diachylon left, and divided it with him; he then opened before me several rags, in which his foot was wrapped, and I saw two large white maggots upon the nearly healed wound.
On the 11th, at three A. M. we quitted Guigo, journeying north upon a very stony road: many shrubs, however, flourish in this country; wild roses and mulberry-trees, the hawthorn, olive-tree, dwarf oak, and others, are watered by the current of a meandering rivulet,[19] in the transparent and delicious waters of which we found relief from our thirst. About two P. M. we arrived at Soforo, a walled town, situated in a fine and extensive plain, very stony but fertile; maize and the olive are cultivated in this tract. The approach to the town is ornamented by pretty gardens enclosed by quickset hedges, and abounding in fruit-trees, round which creep in great numbers vines loaded with fine grapes. We alighted at a fandac.[20] I walked through this town which is the finest that I had hitherto seen. It contains a handsome mosque, built of brick and plastered with mortar; two fountains appropriated to the purpose of the Mahometan ablutions conduce to its decoration. Two watermills are the most remarkable objects in Soforo. The houses are chiefly built of brick and of one story. The streets are narrow and dirty, nevertheless the vicinity of several brooks which rise in the mountains, and the many pretty gardens of the suburbs render this town an agreeable abode. A market is held here daily, which attracts many strangers, and in which the Jews have shops. Baked meat is sold in it, and remarkably fine melons. A clumsy clock in the mosque tower excited my surprise.
In the evening, Moula-Sitec employed a Jew merchant to purchase some wax candles for him; the poor Jew on his return was stopped by a sherif, who, detaining him by his cloak, demanded one of them. In vain he protested with an air of supplication, that he had no means of making such a present, the Moor vehemently insisted, and, seizing the Israelite by a lock of his hair, drew his poniard with an apparent intention of killing him; quaking with fear the poor wretch cried out with all his might, “Oh! spare me, my lord, for the love of God.” The Moor at length released him, and the Jew ran off at his utmost speed.
Moula-Sitec called me to his presence, and inquired, as though he doubted my sincerity, whether I loved the Musulmans; he then made me recite some verses of the Koran, and at length informed me that on the following day we should reach Fez, which town is sometimes visited by christians.
About nine in the evening, great bowls of couscous were served for supper. The sherifs, being persons of high distinction, ate first, and sent us the remainder.
On the 12th of August, at five A. M. we quitted Soforo, and again observed in its outskirts a long line of pleasing gardens: the road, shaded by trellises of fig-trees, is paved with flints to the distance of nearly three or four miles from the town. As we gaily pursued our route northwards, we fell in with many Jews proceeding to the market of Fez, which place we also reached about noon. The road had been good, less stony than that we had previously traversed; but the ground was little cultivated.
Having neither acquaintance nor letters of recommendation, I took up my lodging with my muleteer at the fandac. After a short repose upon a mat, I was desirous of visiting the market. To reach it I passed through several dirty narrow streets of low buildings. The market is held in a street under a roof of trellis-work and straw; the dealers occupy little shops, five or six feet square, raised about three feet above the surface of the ground. Men keep these shops and sit there the whole day in the fashion of tailors on their board. No one took notice of me, and I bought for three felouses[21] a small loaf and a few grapes upon which I dined; then returning to the fandac I passed the night there with the asses and mules.
On the 13th, I went with a negro of Mequinaz to visit the upper part of the town; this good-natured man took pleasure in shewing me its curiosities. We inspected several mosques: one in particular attracted my attention as the finest; it is called by the Moors Mouladrib.
Wishing to proceed as soon as possible, risked changing two English crowns, in order to hire a mule to carry me to Rabat, where I hoped to find a French Consul. I applied first to a Moorish merchant, who bore the character of being very devout; he weighed my pieces and offered much less than their value; I was refusing to part with them on such terms when a Jew blacksmith passed us, and the Moor proposed to him to purchase them. Notwithstanding the bad character of his race, he proved less usurious than the Musulman. After weighing the crowns in scales which he always carried about him, he offered me a price much above that of the zealous follower of Mahomet; I therefore treated with him: but having at the moment no money at hand, to avoid detaining me he requested the Moor to pay me the price agreed upon. The latter hastened to comply, but gave me coin which would not pass without a diminution of one fourth of its value. Such is the charity of these avaricious hypocrites, who abuse with impunity the ignorance and simplicity of an unfortunate stranger.
The Moors all questioned me incessantly upon my travels; they pitied my sufferings, but not one of them invited me to eat; they gave me no other consolation than the assurance that God would not abandon me, but that it would please him to restore me to my country and my friends.
On the 14th, fearing that a longer residence in Fez would be injurious to my health, I made preparations for removing to Mequinaz: this, it was observed, was not the road to Algiers, but I was unwilling to increase my distance from Rabat and Tangier, and reported my intention in going to Mequinaz to be to throw myself at the feet of the Emperor, and make known to him my miserable situation; not doubting that his compassion would furnish me with the means of proceeding to Algiers, whence I should more easily obtain a passage to Alexandria. The importance of this application to the sultan being obvious, no farther observations were made on my project. I was happy in finding so satisfactory a pretence for approaching the sea coast, but internally resolved to avoid the Emperor as solicitously as I affected to seek him.
Fez is the finest town I have seen in Africa; I shall endeavour to describe it as minutely as the shortness of my stay there will permit.
CHAPTER XXVII.
Description of el-Fez — Markets, monuments, gardens, police — Mequinaz — Inhospitality — Arm of the sea called Sbo — Arbata or Rabat, the ancient Sallee — Visit to the Consular Agent — The traveller avoids the camp of the Emperor of Morocco — Writes to the Vice Consul M. Delaporte — Larache — Arrives at Tangier 7th of September, almost dying, emaciated by want, fatigue, and fever — Generous reception of M. Delaporte — Anxiety of the traveller — Is introduced by night and concealed by the Consul — M. Delaporte obtains from the naval commander of the Cadiz station a vessel to convey him to France.
El-Fez, so called by its inhabitants, but designated on the maps by the name of Fez, is a large city belonging to the empire of Morocco, of which it was formerly the capital. It is situated in a species of natural tunnel formed by lofty well-wooded mountains, whence spring several considerable rivulets, which, after fertilizing the valley, supply the city with excellent water. Every mosque contains jets d’eau, and in several streets there are fountains for the refreshment of the thirsty passenger: here are also several water-mills for grinding corn. The city extends from east to west and must be about four miles in circumference, as far as I could judge from a survey of it from the top of a hill. It is surrounded by a double brick wall, about twelve or thirteen feet high, well constructed and ornamented at intervals with raised copings. I was astonished by the regular architecture of a spacious gateway, in the form of a triumphal arch, through which the city is entered. Under this arch were established a number of venders of provisions.
Within the compass of the outer wall are some gardens, and small low houses, called the suburbs; here I observed some manufactories of Delft ware and tiles. The houses have terraced roofs like those of Timbuctoo, and are built of bricks perfectly well formed and baked in a kiln. Their masonry is not very correct: small, square and strongly grated windows overlook the streets; and the outsides, which are lime-washed, are much out of repair; they have generally a story above the ground-floor, which receives air and light only from an inner court.
The streets are paved, but narrow, winding, dark, and dirty to the last degree; I saw in some places, dogs and cats which had been long dead and emitted a pestilential stench.
These streets are nothing more than galleries covered by trellises or masonry, which deprive them of a free circulation of air, concentrate all the disagreeable effluvia of the city, and render it very unwholesome.
The principal manufactures of Fez are blankets and gunpowder; ploughs and wooden spades are also made there, and the city contains locksmiths, cutlers, shoemakers, tailors, masons, blacksmiths, who likewise act as farriers, and gunsmiths, but the fabrication of their guns falls far short of the perfection of ours.
Shops may be found in most quarters of the town furnished with all sorts of provisions, dried or otherwise; as bread, meat, butter, pastry, fruit, and vegetables. As there are no inns, travellers without acquaintance in the city have no other resource than to buy what they want at these shops, and to carry it to the mosque or to the fandac to eat.
A market is held every day; it is attended by a great concourse of strangers, who come from great distances to sell their commodities: great quantities of dates and tanned leather are brought to this market from Tafilet; the inhabitants of the mountains supply it with honey and wax, of which last candles are made, not only for home consumption, but for large consignments to the principal maritime towns.
For the security of the shops, dogs are every night turned loose into the streets of the market; these animals, trained for the purpose, perform their duty so zealously, that, but for the interference of men who sleep near, they would inevitably devour such passengers as chance or business attract to the spot confided to their charge.
No monument of departed splendour exists at Fez to awaken curiosity or recal the former magnificence of the conquerors of Spain: but it boasts of many mosques, each surmounted by a square tower of about a hundred feet in height, upon which a white flag is hoisted as the signal for prayer. I visited several of them, accompanied by the good-natured negro of Mequinaz; and found them large edifices of an oblong square form, containing several galleries raised upon well-built arcades. The only one which appeared to merit particular attention is called by the Moors Mouladrib, probably from the name of its founder. It is the chief ornament of the city. The interior is preserved with the utmost care; it is paved with small pieces of well varnished Dutch tiles, of various colours and shapes, tastefully arranged in mosaic; and the whole compass of the walls, to the height of two feet and a half, is inlaid in the same manner. The arches which support the roof are of far superior workmanship to those of the other mosques; two of them are raised on finely sculptured marble columns, the other pillars are of brick, covered with plaster. The vaulted ceiling is composed of boards, painted yellow and red, and adorned by a broad band of gold colour forming the cornice. Within a sort of sanctuary, in the middle of the mosque, stands a small altar, covered with a cloth embroidered with flowers in gold; and around it are placed several glass lamps and flambeaux, and near it is a handsome lustre hanging from a gilt cupola; a multitude of suspended lamps are also dispersed throughout the temple, to enlighten the faithful. The thirsty traveller is refreshed by a very beautiful fountain which plays in an inner court and invites numbers to sleep within its cooling influence.
Neither inns nor hotels are to be found in Fez; their place is supplied only by fandacs similar to those which I have already described. Here travellers who possess beasts of burden are obliged to sleep on the ground beside them, and themselves to provide them with forage. They usually take their meals at the mosque, pass the greater part of the day there, and would sleep there if permitted. The proprietors of the fandacs exact six felouses per head for the cattle, a sum equivalent to two French sous.
Two hills, which command the city are defended each by an insignificant fortress, having embrasures but no cannon: one is situated nearly S. E., and the other, in which some prisoners were confined, is to the N. W.
The immediate environs, for two or three miles round, are highly cultivated, and produce abundance of vines, and olive, fig, apple and pear trees; near the wall are mulberry-trees of considerable height. I have seen flower-gardeners selling in the markets a great variety of flowers, similar to those which adorn our parterres in France. At some distance from the town are a great number of little mausoleums, in which the remains of the most distinguished sherifs are deposited.
Fez is computed to contain about twenty thousand inhabitants, all either artificers or traders, who carry on an extensive commerce in European manufactures, which they export to Tafilet and Timbuctoo as well as to the adjacent mountainous countries.
The 14th of August, at seven in the morning, I quitted the fandac and walked through the city with my leathern bag thrown over my shoulder. A long street conducted me to the western gate, where I hired a mule to carry me to Mequinaz; and, our provision for the journey being prepared, we departed, directing our course W. N. W., over a smooth soil composed of very good mould but uncultivated. I remarked several tents of wandering Arabs pitched beside a little river formed by the junction of the rivulets which water the environs of Fez. Our road, which was very uneven, lay between two ridges of barren hills, and crossed several well constructed bridges.
About two o’clock we rested under a bridge which sheltered us from the sun. We had in our company two women who, being under no restraint, shewed but little solicitude to conceal their fair complexions and pretty faces beneath their veils; one of them rode on my mule behind me; and I presume that my attentions were agreeable to her, as she offered me a slice of melon and a bit of bread which I accepted with pleasure. Our pretty fellow-travellers, however, learning that the Emperor had set out for Rabat, returned to Fez, and I continued my route with my guide alone; our mules keeping up so good a pace that I estimated our progress at four miles an hour.
At five in the morning we arrived at Mequinaz, the streets of which city were as dirty and narrow as those of Fez; and, entering a fandac, I begged to be allowed to sleep in a stable, a favour which the master refused in the rudest manner. Turning from a place which offered so little hospitality to an unfortunate stranger, I sought refuge in the mosque, the asylum of the indigent: there I hoped to repose in peace till the morning; but alas! I was disappointed. About ten at night an old bamâb (porter) came to me, and kicking me, roughly desired me in a hoarse voice to rise and begone, for he was about to shut up. In vain I represented myself as a stranger not knowing whither to go, and implored him to allow me to pass the night in this retreat: without the least regard to my situation he compelled me to leave the mosque. Such conduct ought not to have surprised me, for in this part of Africa, as in some other more civilized countries, men are distinguished only by their apparel, and it must be confessed that mine did not plead in my favour; but I considered that it would be highly imprudent to study my dress: my rags excited no attention, and this livery of poverty served as a veil with which prudence required that I should still envelop myself.
I possessed some pieces of silver and four buckles made of gold from the mines of Bouré; but, as it would have been dangerous to shew them, I took my bag upon my shoulder, and left the mosque, uncertain where to find repose for my sick and wearied frame. For a short time I wandered about the streets meditating on my forlorn condition, and, oppressed by the recollection of the humiliations, fatigues, and privations which I had already endured, and by the chilling sense of those which I still experienced, I could not altogether suppress my tears. Let me hope this weakness was excusable in my disastrous situation: it was within sight of the desired haven that I was most in danger of shipwreck. With a heart sinking under these reflections, I sought shelter in the shop of a dealer in vegetables, who, taking me at first for a Berber, would not suffer my intrusion; when, however, I told him that I was an Arab, he left me in tranquillity to pass the night on the ground. Laying my head on the leather bag which contained my notes, I enjoyed a short forgetfulness of misery, but was soon awakened by the cold, and sleep solaced me no more during the night.
August the 15th, at six in the morning, hastily quitting this inhospitable place, I resumed my journey towards Rabat on foot, carrying my bag, and but scantily provided with food.
Beyond the town I passed some gardens, and several plots of well cultivated hemp. I soon discovered that it would be impossible for me to reach Rabat on foot, for my limbs had scarcely strength to support me, and the pain which I felt in the spleen was aggravated by fatigue. Resting therefore for a moment against a wall I considered how I should proceed, and finally determined upon returning to the town. Taking my purse out of my bag, and observing with sorrow that its contents were much diminished, I was nevertheless under the necessity of abstracting a few shillings from what remained, proposing to change them on my return to Mequinaz, to procure me a conveyance. Inadvertently I laid my knife and pocket-compass on the ground beside me and forgot them. Much grieved by their loss, I returned from the city to seek them, but unhappily in vain. As I again approached the city I saw several Spaniards, who had been shipwrecked on the coast, followed by a crowd of Moors, and escorted by soldiers, armed with sticks for the purpose of preventing the pressure of the crowd; they were being conducted to the Emperor, and I remarked with pleasure that they were not ill-treated. A Jew, who spoke the Spanish language acted as their interpreter. I followed them a short distance, but, finding it impossible to penetrate to them, returned towards the market, and seated myself at the door of a Berber, who, perceiving that I was suffering pain, asked me who I was and what ailed me: I told him my story, which, like all his countrymen, he believed. Having imparted to him my intention of hiring a conveyance to Rabat, in the hope of seeing the Emperor and applying to him for assistance to enable me to return to my own country, this good Berber induced me to place my bag in his shop and promised himself to negociate with the muleteer for the fulfilment of my wishes.
In the course of the day, I visited the fandacs, and there met with a man from Tafilet, who proposed to me to hire an ass for my conveyance to Rabat. I took him to the Berber, and, having agreed upon the price, which was fixed at a piastre and three quarters, I paid him the earnest; we were to set out the following day. In the evening I bought some fruit and bread for my guide and myself.
On the 16th of August, at six in the morning, I mounted my ass, not without the assistance of my guide, which on account of my weakness I was unable to dispense with: we travelled due north for about an hour, then turned N. W. till nine in the morning. The route is interrupted by hills, and turns a little to the south. About two o’clock we halted under the shade of a zizyphus lotus, to repose during the extreme heat: at three we resumed our route to the north, till half-past four, and then proceeded N. W. On the road we met a traveller in the utmost distress on account of the death of his horse, for, besides the inconvenience of prosecuting his journey on foot, the poor man was compelled also to carry his saddle to some inhabited place; my guide took pity upon him and placed his saddle behind me, which suited me well, for I was so weak that I could scarcely sit up, and this saddle made a convenient support for my back.
At six in the evening, we reached a considerable brook, which runs S. S. W., and afterwards west, and stopped to slake our thirst at it. I had been suffering from fever nearly the whole day, and the heat had been overpowering; I now lay down to take a short repose. During this halt, the Moor, who was not the owner of the horse he had lost, obtained from a sherif a certificate of its death: the sherif, having interrogated me in common with the other witnesses of the event, gave on our evidence the writing which testified that the horse had died without any fault on the part of its rider.
At sun-set, after having eaten some figs given us by the Berbers, we proceeded northwards till eight o’clock, when we reached a camp, provided with a tent that served as a mosque, and was destined also for the reception of travellers; we took up our quarters in it, and the inhabitants of the camp brought us supper. This spot is covered with prickly shrubs.
At two o’clock in the morning of the 17th, we quitted this hospitable camp; for half an hour we were followed by a troop of nearly thirty dogs, which barked incessantly, and even bit our beasts. At five o’clock, turning to the N. W. we proceeded over level ground covered with a fine vegetation. Towards eight in the morning, we halted for an hour beside a well, where we breakfasted upon fresh bread, and some water-melons which we had found in the fields. After this rural repast we drank some pretty good water, which we were able to take up by hand, the wells being shallow. We continued our route to the N. W., and at eleven o’clock, the heat being violent, again halted under a beautiful clump of fig-trees, where several travellers were sleeping; we rested till noon, my guide, who was sufficiently complaisant, having some consideration for my illness. After this short repose we proceeded still towards the N. W. till three P. M. when our direction turned E. S. E.; we now journeyed over loose sand. At half-past two we stopped before a camp of soldiers, who were on their march to rejoin the emperor; they had pitched their tents near an arm of the sea, which my guide told me was called Sbo.[22] To my great surprise tolerable order was preserved in this camp: the centinels were placed at equal distances from each other, but they slept the whole night; the chiefs were lodged in handsome tents, having a centinel at the door, and soldiers around them. The women of the neighbouring districts supplied them with bread.
On the 18th, at three in the morning, we set forward, crossing the camp, where the soldiers were still all asleep; but one, waking up with a start, exclaimed: “Who goes there?” This did not however interrupt our progress. Farther on we encountered the advanced guard, also asleep, but our noise disturbed them, and waking up they inquired who we were and whither we were going: upon receiving our answer they permitted us to pass through the midst of them, for there was no other road, and it was necessary to cross a bridge. We proceeded by a fine road to the S. W.; the soil composed of grey sand is naturally fertile. At eight in the morning we halted to take a slight repast of bread and some nuts purchased at Mequinaz, and ate it in peace beside a well. We continued our route to the S. W. over a soil similar to that which I noticed over-night, and arrived at an arm of the sea on the opposite shore of which Rabat is situated; here I saw several Portuguese vessels. The vine flourishes in the environs of this town, and the fields are well cultivated.
Upon entering Rabat, I proceeded with my guide to the fandac, where I rested awhile and then set out to walk through the town in hopes of finding the French consul, for I concluded that there would be one here. I held some shillings in my hand, by means of which I proposed without committing myself to find the consular house. I begged several Moors to change them for me, knowing that they would not (for they have little complaisance) but I foresaw that they would refer me to a christian, to whom I hoped by this innocent stratagem to be enabled to speak without exciting suspicion. In fact, the first Moor whom I requested to change my shillings for the coin of the country directed me to the christians; I took advantage of this circumstance to inquire for the French consul, saying, that the money was French, and he, having no suspicion of me, immediately pointed out the consul’s residence. I knocked at the door, and was thrilled with joy at the thought of being about to see a Frenchman.
A Jew, who spoke tolerable English, opened the door; he told me that the consul was at this moment with the sultan, but that he would soon return. I retired for a short time, and on my second application was by the same Jew presented to the French consul at Rabat. Gracious God! how was I disconcerted, when I found that he was himself a Jew! I was so thunderstruck that I remained for a moment speechless; meanwhile he addressed me in pretty good French, inquiring what I wanted with him: recovering a little from my stupefying surprise, I shewed him my shillings and begged him to change them; an English merchant who chanced to be with him, and to whom I confided my secret, assured me that I might safely communicate to the Jew the true cause of my application to him. I then told the consular agent that I wished to converse with him for a moment in private, upon which he shewed me into his warehouse and seated me upon the floor. There I informed him that I was a Frenchman, that I came from the Soudan, and that, desiring to return to my own country, I claimed the protection due to a subject of the King of France. The Jew asked if I had any papers, and if I was travelling by order of the government: having satisfied him on all these points, he opened a French book of geography, and pointed out upon a map the Senegal and other districts, no doubt to display his learning: he then shewed a letter from M. Sourdeau, consul-general of the King of France, announcing his nomination to the dignity of consular agent at Rabat; but he gave me to understand that he received no pay, and that in consequence I was not to expect much assistance from him; then dismissing me, he recommended me strongly not to make myself known if I valued my head; for, added he, the Moors are no triflers on the subject of religion.
I then returned to the fandac, leaving with the consular agent ten shillings, which he refused to change; he gave me however on account, three dragmes (twenty four sous) for the supply of my most urgent wants during the following days. I made my guide purchase a piece of roasted mutton and two small loaves, which I divided with him; resolving however that this should be my last repast in his company: not that he had been deficient in complaisance to me, but, convinced that I must be extremely desirous of an interview with the sultan his master, he was perpetually endeavouring to pursuade me to solicit one. I had exhausted all my pretences for delaying this step; and had sufficient reason to beware of presenting myself before the African monarch, who, more suspicious than his subjects, would in all probability have proved more clear-sighted.
I quitted the fandac therefore, and passed the day at the corner of a street; where I hoped to spend the night with equal tranquillity, and lying down enveloped myself in my large wrapper. I was invoking sleep, the friend of the unfortunate, when a dozen dogs began to bark furiously at me, and I should certainly have fallen a prey to these animals, had I not been promptly assisted by one of those men, who are posted in the streets at night expressly to rescue passengers from their attacks. This man inquired who I was; “I am an Arab, a stranger here,” replied I, “on my return to Alexandria my native country.” Upon this he placed me in a small recess near which he slept himself; arming me with a strong bamboo cane to drive away the dogs, if they should trouble me again; a very judicious precaution, for these creatures, apparently conscious that I was a stranger, never ceased throughout the night annoying me with their menacing cries. I would gladly have slept at a fandac, but for the expense of three paras per night, and the risk of insults from the muleteers. Consulting my poverty, and uncertain when I should be able to obtain assistance from the French Consul, I determined to be as saving as possible and to sleep under the canopy of heaven. Henceforth, I sought repose in a cemetery, situated to the west of the town on the sea-shore, where, peacefully extended at the foot of a mausoleum, I was neither tormented by men nor dogs. During the day I remained at the corners of the streets, sometimes repairing to the mosques to take my melancholy meals, consisting of a little bread and a bunch of grapes, to which I occasionally ventured to add from my scanty resources a small piece of fried fish. As the wells of Rabat are brackish, I was obliged to beg water from the Moors who seldom refused me. Such was the kind of life which I led, during the whole of my residence at Rabat, while waiting for an opportunity to proceed to Tangier to the French Consul. I now and then saw Ismael, the Jew agent of the consulate, who gave me some small coins of the country, on the security of the ten shillings with which I had entrusted him. One day, finding him at home at breakfast, I was invited to sit upon the floor and partake of his tea. I entreated him to procure for me some means of travelling to Tangier; promising to reimburse him as soon as I should reach the consul; but the Jew, fearing no doubt that this would be disapproved by his superior, drily refused. Seeing that nothing was to be gained from this man, not even permission to embark on board a Portuguese brig, bound for Gibraltar, I was about to write to M. Sourdeau, Consul-general at Morocco, when Ismael received a letter from Tangier informing him of this gentleman’s death; I therefore addressed myself to the Vice-Consul M. Delaporte, on whom the direction of the consulate had devolved; but an opportunity of going to Tangier occurring during the interval, while I awaited his answer, I hired an ass to carry me thither, for my legs would no longer support me.
On the 2nd of September, I quitted Rabat with the owner my ass, the most worthless man I had met with in this country. The poor beast destined to carry me, was already oppressed by a heavy burthen, and sunk at every step up to his knees in the loose sand of the sea-shore; I had therefore no alternative but to dismount, and though I had paid a good price for my conveyance, and was scarcely able to drag myself along, was obliged to perform half the journey on foot, while my unworthy guide rode forward with the utmost indifference. On reaching the place appointed for the halt, I threw myself down under a tree, and wrapped up in my old blanket, suffered there a violent attack of fever, produced by fatigue and exhaustion. Towards seven in the evening, my guide brought me a handful of couscous, which had been given him by some Arabs near whom we had encamped.
At Larache I saw two vessels cruising, and little thought that one of them would shortly bear me from this frightful country. I ascended with difficulty the hills in the vicinity of Tangier, and at length, ill, and worn out with fatigue, I arrived in that town on the 7th of September, at nightfall.
As I entered on foot the centinel took no notice of me, and I thus fortunately escaped an explanation with the governor of the town, which might have thrown some obstacles in the way of my departure, or even have involved me in destruction. I deposited my bag at the fandac, and the same evening explored the town in search of the French Consulate. I saw many flag-staves, but could not for the darkness distinguish that of my own nation. The moment was most critical. I dared not to address myself to a Musulman, who would infallibly have asked what concern I had with the christians: and if my intentions had been discovered I should have lost all hope of restoration to my country. I lay at the fandac, and passed the night in extreme agitation. In the morning I again repaired to the street where I had seen the flags, and perceived an open door, near which stood a christian; looking carefully round, to ascertain that I was not observed, I accosted him in English, inquiring for the residence of the British Consul. “This is it,” replied he; but, fearful of attracting notice, by conversing too long outside the door, I would have entered the house, to ask a direction to the French Consulate; but this man, who I supposed was a domestic, repulsed me with horror, on account of my dirty and disfigured appearance. I inquired for the residence of the French Consul, and he bluntly answered, “He is dead,” but at the same time called a Jew, who directed me to the door of the Vice-Consul, and with an air of curiosity, asked who I was, and what I wanted with a Christian; I retreated without answering, trembling with the dread of detection. When all whose observation I had excited had passed on, I returned to the Vice-Consul’s door, which, being opened, I entered the house: a Jewess called M. Delaporte who received me with the greatest kindness, and conducted me up stairs to an apartment where I was entirely concealed from view. I comprehended the full extent of the danger which surrounded me, from the fear which M. Delaporte expressed of the difficulties which must embarrass my departure from this country; but, speedily laying aside any uneasiness relative to my present situation, he gave free vent to the joy with which my almost miraculous escape from the dangers of so arduous a journey inspired him, and in his transports even embraced me, pressing me closely to his arms, notwithstanding the dirty rags in which I was clad: I cannot indeed speak too warmly of the benevolent reception which I experienced from this generous man. After enjoying a breakfast from his hospitality I found myself, with great regret, obliged to depart, though we had not yet determined on any means for rescuing me from my present embarrassing situation. No sooner had I set foot in the street than I most inconveniently encountered my muleteer, who, seeing me come out of a house, inquired where I had been; at first I felt a little confused, but quickly recovering I told him that a charitable priest had given me a breakfast in that house. I returned to the fandac, and did not leave it again that day, apprehensive of exciting attention, as those by whom I had been seen had inquired whether I was a renegado.
I passed the night in contriving means to obtain another interview with the Vice-Consul In the morning the master of the fandac came to demand three felusses for my night’s lodging in his stable, and then, pushing me by the shoulders, sent me to return thanks to God and the Prophet.
At nightfall I again presented myself at M. Delaporte’s house: as I was entering, the female servant, not recognizing me, ran back uttering a loud cry; this brought from the street the Vice-Consul’s guard who, precipitately entering the house, put his hand upon my shoulder, and demanded who I was, and what I wanted. I was completely disconcerted,. M. Delaporte, being brought down by the noise, knew me, but affected great anger, and spoke very harshly to prevent suspicion. “Turn out this dog of a beggar,” said he, “what can he want here? begone!” The soldier still asking what I wanted, I examined the house as though in doubt; and saying, “What! does not Sidi-Mohammed reside here? I fear I have made a mistake,” I retired; the soldier following me a short distance, but by favour of the night I easily escaped him. On my return to the fandac I threw myself upon the ground, to recover from the emotion which this untoward accident had occasioned. After an hour’s repose, I again repaired to the street where M. Delaporte resided, hoping that he would send some one to me with a message of encouragement; but I saw no one. I passed another agitated night, sleeping little; and at day-break took my station in front of the Vice-Consul’s house to seek a decisive interview with him, the suspense in which I continued having become insupportable. I seated myself at the door of a poor shoemaker, to watch the moment when I might enter the house without observation. The Jewish maid servant, who had been so unfortunately alarmed the preceding evening, recognized me: and, having given notice to M. Delaporte, made me a sign to come in. The Vice-Consul obligingly expressed his regret for the unpleasant scene of the preceding evening; he did not dissemble his apprehensions for me, in case I continued long in my present situation, but could devise no means for my escape; I was still more perplexed, as without his assistance I should find it impossible to quit the country. Seeing me resolved to extricate myself as speedily as possible from this state of distress and anxiety, M. Delaporte fixed an hour of the night for my return to the consulate, to quit it no more till I should be enabled to embark for Europe. I spent the remainder of the day at the fandac, and that my sudden disappearance might occasion no surprise amongst its inmates, I apprised them that I intended to proceed to Taone on my route to Algiers. When it was quite dark, I rolled my bag in my wrapper to screen it from observation, and repaired to the appointed spot, where I immediately saw M. Delaporte and a Jew, who came to conduct me to my destined asylum. I was admitted to the Consular residence by a back door, and led to a good chamber, where M. Delaporte presently sent me a European dress, for which I gladly exchanged the dirty rags I had so long worn: he then visited me in my new apartment, and expressed the greatest satisfaction at seeing me in a place of safety.
After returning thanks to Almighty God, I lay down upon a good bed, rejoicing in my escape from the society of men debased by ignorance and fanaticism. Though all my wants were relieved, I found it impossible to close my eyes the whole night, so much was I agitated by the remembrance of the perils I had passed through. During my whole residence at the Consulate, M. Delaporte came many times each day to see and converse with me; he treated me as his own son, and indeed lavished on me all the cares of the tenderest father.
It would be difficult to describe my sensations on casting off for ever my Arab costume; I retraced in my memory all the privations and fatigues I had endured, and the length of route I had traversed in a wild country, amidst a thousand dangers. I blessed God for my arrival in port; but I believed myself in a dream, and asked if it was indeed true that I might soon be restored to my country, or whether this enchanting hope was but a delusion.
M. Delaporte neglected nothing that could contribute to the re-establishment of my impaired health, and the wholesome nourishment he gave me effected a decided improvement; but I was still frequently attacked by paroxysms of fever which kept me in a state of extreme weakness. During my abode in the consulate I was occupied in arranging my notes.
Besides the frequent and agreeable visits of the Vice-Consul, I received also those of a Jew domestic to whom the secret of my seclusion was confided: this man, though a Frenchman, was thoroughly imbued with the principles of his race and had no ideas but for the advancement of his interests. He undoubtedly believed that my views were the same, and advised me to carry the fruits of my travels to England; representing to me that this nation had offered a reward of twenty-five thousand pounds sterling for the accomplishment of the journey to Timbuctoo. Instead of listening to so contemptible a proposition, I replied, that I was a Frenchman, and added: “The recompence to be derived from the French government would undoubtedly be less considerable; but I should not hesitate a single moment to offer to my native country and my king the homage of my modest labours.”
The excellent M. Delaporte wrote very pressingly to the commander of the French station off Cadiz, describing in lively colours the dangers to which I was exposed by a longer residence in this place. The commander, determined by his solicitations, sent one of the king’s sloops to Tangier to convey me to Toulon.
On the 27th of September 1828, a little before sunset, a sailor’s dress was sent me as a more convenient disguise. A Moor inquired who I was, saying that he had not seen me disembark with the others; the Jew, who attended me, answered that I was a Frenchman from Tetuan, returning to France, and the Moor made no farther remark. I embarked on board the sloop La Légère, suffering much from fever, and the Commander Jolivet supplied me with every thing necessary in my situation.
On the 28th, at six in the morning, we set sail with a fair wind, and to my great satisfaction soon lost sight of Tangier. M. Jolivet’s cares had a beneficial effect upon my health; the fever left me, and the fine sea-breezes soon completed my recovery. We arrived at Toulon after a very favourable voyage of ten days.
Those who have been long absent from their native land, and have good cause to fear that they may never return, can alone form an idea of my sensations on my restoration to my beloved country. While in quarantine I wrote to M. Jomard, President of the central commission of the Geographical Society, to announce my travels to him. I soon after received, as the first proof of the benevolent interest of this learned association, the sum of five hundred francs, to defray the expenses of my journey to Paris: nor was it long before I enjoyed the glorious reward of its merited approbation. The society applauded my zeal, and awarded to me the recompense promised to the first traveller who should penetrate to the mysterious town of Timbuctoo, and bring from thence his authentic observations. The government graciously received the Society’s report upon my travels, and soon bestowed upon me distinguished marks of its munificence and honourable protection.
But this flattering success raised adversaries against me: some alleged that I had never reached Timbuctoo; others, that I had been shipwrecked on the coast of Barbary, and, having obtained possession of some vague intelligence respecting the interior of the country, had imposed it upon the public for the results of my personal observations. I have been even accused of changing my religion at every station. To this malevolent imputation, I answer: that I externally adopted the forms of the Mahometan worship as the only means of penetrating into the countries through which I have travelled—an achievement which, without this acquiescence, would have been impracticable, except by encountering at every step the hazard of death, and inevitably suffering it at last. I must confess that these unjust attacks have affected me more sensibly than all the hardships, fatigues, and privations, which I have encountered in the interior of Africa.
GEOGRAPHICAL
REMARKS AND INQUIRIES
CONCERNING
THE TRAVELS OF M. CAILLIÉ,
IN CENTRAL AFRICA,
BY M. JOMARD, MEMBER OF THE INSTITUTE;
COMPRISING
AN ANALYSIS OF THE MAP OF THE ROUTE AND THE GENERAL MAP OF THE TRAVELS, DRAWN UP BY THE SAME; FOLLOWED BY VOCABULARIES COLLECTED BY M. CAILLlÉ, HIS ITINERARY DAY BY DAY, EXPLANATIONS OF THE PLATES, AND NOTES ON SEVERAL POINTS OF NATURAL HISTORY AND GEOGRAPHY; CONCLUDING WITH DOCUMENTS AND OTHER PAPERS.
GEOGRAPHICAL
REMARKS AND INQUIRIES
CONCERNING
THE TRAVELS OF M. CAILLIÉ,
IN CENTRAL AFRICA,